# SeaBits > I test gear, fix systems, and write about marine electronics, internet, and electrical systems while cruising the Salish Sea aboard a 54-foot steel trawler. Public Ghost content for AI and LLM tooling. This file includes a bounded export of public pages first, then recent public posts. Append `.md` to any post or page URL to get the content in Markdown (for example, `/example-post.md`). ## Pages ### Contact Me URL: https://seabits.com/contact/ Last updated: 2026-09-02T22:57:32.000Z ![CTA Image](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/09/_DSC0377-1.jpeg) I’m always interested in hearing from folks who have questions or comments or need help. Drop me a note below and I'll get back to you in a couple of days or less. Your Name Email Address Message Send I also offer [consulting services](https://seabits.com/consulting/) for boaters, complex designs, tricky electrical problems, and everything in between. Let me know if you've got something I might be able to help with. ### Terms of Service URL: https://seabits.com/terms/ Last updated: 2026-03-21T23:26:22.000Z *Effective date: January 1st, 2026* ## About SeaBits LLC SeaBits LLC ("SeaBits," "we," "us") is a marine consulting and systems integration business based in Washington State. We provide remote consulting, on-site electrical and systems installation, and educational content and membership services to boat owners and marine industry professionals. These terms govern all engagements with SeaBits, including consulting sessions booked online, project estimates and invoices, and website membership subscriptions. ## 1\. Consulting Services Remote consulting sessions booked through SeaBits' scheduling system are billed at the posted rate for the session duration selected. Payment is collected at the time of booking via Stripe. Sessions are non-refundable once the session has occurred. If you need to cancel or reschedule, please do so at least 24 hours in advance via the link in your booking confirmation email. Cancellations with less than 24 hours notice may be forfeited at SeaBits' discretion. Remote consulting is advisory in nature. SeaBits provides recommendations and guidance based on the information available during the session. SeaBits is not responsible for outcomes resulting from the client's independent implementation of that guidance on their vessel. ## 2\. On-Site Installation and Project Work On-site work is governed by a written estimate or invoice issued by SeaBits. All on-site work is subject to the following terms: **Estimates.** Estimates are prepared in good faith based on available information and are not fixed-price commitments. Boats are complex systems and work often reveals conditions not visible at the outset — actual scope and cost may change once work is underway. SeaBits will notify the client before exceeding the estimate and provide options to proceed. Billing reflects actual time and materials worked. Estimates are valid for 30 days from the date of issue. **Rates and charges.** Billing includes labor at SeaBits' posted hourly rate, plus materials at retail cost, applicable sales tax, and project expenses including travel, mileage, ferry fares, parking, parts runs, and lodging if overnight travel is required and the client does not provide accommodations. **Sales tax.** Installation labor and materials are subject to Washington State sales tax at the applicable rate for the jurisdiction where work is performed. Remote consulting and advisory services are not subject to sales tax. **Payment.** Payment is due net-15 from invoice date. Accepted methods include credit card and ACH bank transfer. Unpaid balances after 30 days are subject to a late fee of 1.5% per month. SeaBits reserves the right to suspend work on open projects where invoices remain unpaid beyond 30 days. **Workmanship.** All installation work is performed in accordance with ABYC electrical standards and best practices. SeaBits will remedy, at no charge, any installation failure caused solely by SeaBits' workmanship. This warranty does not cover failures resulting from pre-existing vessel conditions, water intrusion or corrosion, improper operation by the owner or others, or interference from systems outside the scope of the engagement. ## 3\. Membership Subscriptions SeaBits offers paid membership tiers providing access to premium content, resources, and community features on seabits.com. Memberships are billed on a recurring basis via Stripe at the rate selected at signup. You may cancel your membership at any time; access continues through the end of the current billing period. SeaBits reserves the right to modify membership pricing or content offerings with reasonable notice. ## 4\. Intellectual Property SeaBits retains all intellectual property rights in wiring diagrams, system designs, written reports, documentation, and other deliverables produced in connection with any engagement, unless otherwise agreed in writing. Clients receive a non-exclusive license to use deliverables for the specific vessel or project for which they were created. Content published on seabits.com, including articles, reviews, and project reports, may not be reproduced or republished without written permission. ## 5\. Limitation of Liability SeaBits' liability in connection with any engagement is limited to the fees paid for that specific engagement. SeaBits is not liable for indirect, incidental, consequential, or punitive damages of any kind. Marine electrical and systems work involves inherent complexity and risk; SeaBits' recommendations and installations are made in good faith based on available information and accepted industry standards. ## 6\. Dispute Resolution SeaBits will make good-faith efforts to resolve any concerns informally. If you have a concern about work performed or services provided, please contact us directly before pursuing other remedies. These terms are governed by the laws of the State of Washington. ## 7\. Severability If any provision of these terms is found to be unenforceable, the remaining provisions remain in full effect. ## 8\. Changes to These Terms SeaBits may update these terms from time to time. The current version is always available at seabits.com/terms. Continued use of SeaBits' services following any update constitutes acceptance of the revised terms. ## 9\. Contact Questions about these terms or any SeaBits engagement can be submitted via the contact form at seabits.com/contact. ### Privacy Policy URL: https://seabits.com/privacy/ Last updated: 2026-07-01T02:39:03.000Z *Effective date: January 1, 2026* ## Who We Are SeaBits LLC ("SeaBits," "we," "us") is a marine consulting, systems integration, and publishing business operated by Steve Mitchell. **Owner and Data Controller** SeaBits LLC 7001 Seaview Ave NW, Suite 160-633 Seattle, WA 98117 admin@seabits.com ## What This Policy Covers This policy describes how SeaBits collects, uses, and shares personal data across all of our services, including: - The seabits.com website and newsletter - Paid membership subscriptions - Consulting and training services - The SeaBits Discussions community forum at talk.seabits.com ## Data We Collect and Why ### Website visitors When you visit seabits.com, basic anonymous usage data is collected to understand how the site is used. No personally identifiable information is collected for analytics purposes. Cloudflare processes all traffic to seabits.com as our CDN and security provider. This involves processing your IP address and browser data in order to deliver the site reliably and protect against attacks. Google Fonts loads typefaces from Google's servers, which may collect usage data. ### Newsletter subscribers When you subscribe to the SeaBits newsletter, we collect your email address and, optionally, your name. This data is stored in Ghost, our publishing platform, and used to send you newsletter issues and membership-related emails. Ghost uses Mailgun as its bulk email delivery service; your email address passes through Mailgun's systems solely for the purpose of delivering emails from SeaBits. ### Paid members When you purchase a membership, we collect your name, email address, and payment information. Payment is processed by Stripe — SeaBits never stores your full card details. Stripe processes your payment data under their own privacy policy. Ghost stores your membership status and billing history. ### Consulting session bookings When you submit a consulting or training inquiry via the forms on seabits.com, your name, email address, and inquiry details are processed by Formspree. SeaBits receives this data solely to respond to your inquiry and arrange services. Payment for services is processed by Stripe. ### Contact form When you submit the contact form on seabits.com, your name, email address, and message are processed by Formspree, a third-party form handling service. SeaBits receives this data solely to respond to your inquiry. ### Community forum (talk.seabits.com) The SeaBits Discussions forum is powered by Discourse software, self-hosted by SeaBits. When you register for an account, we collect your name, email address, and any profile information you choose to provide. Your posts and contributions are publicly visible. You may register using your email address, or via OAuth login through Google, X (Twitter), or GitHub — in which case those services authenticate your identity and share basic profile data with Discourse. Your account data and activity is stored on SeaBits' own servers. ### Amazon affiliate links SeaBits participates in the Amazon Associates affiliate program. When you click an affiliate link, Amazon may set trackers and collect usage data per their own privacy policy. SeaBits receives a commission on qualifying purchases but does not receive your personal data from Amazon. ## How Long We Keep Your Data - **Newsletter subscribers:** Retained until you unsubscribe or request deletion - **Paid member data:** Retained for the duration of membership plus as long as required by tax and legal obligations (typically 7 years) - **Booking data:** Retained for the duration reasonably needed to fulfill consulting services and for business records - **Contact form submissions:** Retained only as long as needed to respond to your inquiry - **Forum data:** Retained until you request account deletion ## Your Rights Depending on your location, you may have rights regarding your personal data, including the right to: - Access a copy of the data we hold about you - Request correction of inaccurate data - Request deletion of your data - Withdraw consent to processing where consent is the legal basis - Object to processing based on legitimate interests - Request restriction of processing - Lodge a complaint with a data protection authority To exercise any of these rights, contact us at admin@seabits.com or via the contact form at seabits.com/contact. We will respond within 30 days. **To unsubscribe** from the newsletter, use the unsubscribe link in any email or contact us directly. **To delete your forum account**, use the account settings in Discourse or contact us. **To request deletion of membership data**, contact us at admin@seabits.com. ## Third-Party Services The following third-party services process personal data in connection with SeaBits. Each operates under its own privacy policy. | Service | Purpose | Privacy Policy | | --------------------------------------- | ---------------------------------------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Ghost (Ghost Foundation Ltd, Singapore) | Site platform, subscriptions, newsletter | ghost.org/privacy | | Mailgun (Sinch, US) | Email delivery for Ghost newsletters | mailgun.com/privacy-policy | | Cloudflare (US) | CDN, traffic, security | cloudflare.com/privacypolicy | | Google Fonts (Google LLC, US) | Typography | policies.google.com/privacy | | Stripe (US) | Payment processing | stripe.com/privacy | | Formspree (US) | Contact form processing | formspree.io/legal/privacy-policy | | Google OAuth | Forum login option | policies.google.com/privacy | | X (Twitter) OAuth | Forum login option | twitter.com/privacy | | GitHub OAuth | Forum login option | docs.github.com/site-policy/privacy-policies/github-privacy-statement | | Amazon Associates (US) | Affiliate links | amazon.com/privacy | ## Data Security We take reasonable measures to protect your personal data. All connections to seabits.com and talk.seabits.com are encrypted via HTTPS. Payment data is handled exclusively by Stripe, which is PCI-DSS Level 1 certified. We do not store payment card information. ## Children's Privacy SeaBits is not directed at children under 13\. We do not knowingly collect personal data from children. ## Changes to This Policy We may update this policy from time to time. The current version is always available at seabits.com/privacy. Continued use of SeaBits services after an update constitutes acceptance of the revised policy. ## Contact Questions about this privacy policy or your personal data: **Email:** admin@seabits.com **Contact form:** seabits.com/contact **Mail:** SeaBits LLC, 7001 Seaview Ave NW, Suite 160-633, Seattle, WA 98117 ### Services URL: https://seabits.com/services/ Last updated: 2023-10-21T23:39:57.000Z I run the following services, mostly to contribute to various communities or data gathering services to allow others to benefit. # AIS I currently use an AIS unit on [Kaos](https://seabits.com/kaos/) to grab AIS data off the VHF airwaves. On board, I have an Intel NUC that runs [aisdispatcher](http://www.aishub.net/aisdispatcher-description.php?ref=seabits.com) and sends only summarized data over a VPN connection to my home. I [documented how I do this with a bandwidth limited cellular link](https://seabits.com/sending-ais-data-slow-cellular-link/). I submit this data to as many AIS aggregators as possible including the below: - [MarineTraffic](http://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/stations/1700?ref=seabits.com) – my favorite site for submitting AIS due to it’s great tools and data analysis of my signal/data. - [aishub](http://www.aishub.net/live-map.php?rrdname=2369&sname=Seattle%20WA&ref=seabits.com) - [Shipfinder](http://shipfinder.co/?ref=seabits.com) - [BoatBeacon](http://boatbeaconapp.com/station/5345?ref=seabits.com) – great site and associated Boat Watch app. Also the makers of [SeaNav](http://pocketmariner.com/mobile-apps/seanavapp/?ref=seabits.com), a fantastic navigation app for the Mac. # SignalK Rendezvous has a Intel NUC system connected to an Actisense NMEA 2000 interface. It runs a number of services, but its primary purpose is to run the SignalK server and gather data to go in my Grafana database. I also submit data from SignalK to Windy (weather) and many other services. # Weather I run several weather stations, covered in more detail on my [Weather](https://seabits.com/weather) page. They include: - [Rendezvous Windy weather station](https://www.windy.com/station/pws-f0717799?47.628,-122.393,8&ref=seabits.com) \- based on my [real-time weather from the boat](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/) article. - [Nile Weather](http://nileweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) – at our family cabin near Nile, WA - [Friday Harbor Weather](http://fridayharborweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) – maintained for [Steve Roberts](https://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) on his boat and [documented here](https://seabits.com/weather-boat-via-weewx-ambient/). - [Ocean Park Weather](http://oceanparkweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) – friends weather station near Long Beach, WA ### s/v Jammy URL: https://seabits.com/jammy/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T14:58:26.000Z *Jammy* was a 1979 US Yachts 295 sailboat that graced my life from 2004-2015\. She and I had many years of adventures and projects in Seattle, and around Puget Sound. I sold her in 2015 to move up to a larger sailboat, [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/). When I bought Jammy in 2004, she had basic instruments that were not reliable, original engine, and old sails, but she was sound as can be, sailed fast, and had tons of potential. I set about a 10+ year endeavor to learn more about the inner workings of a sailboat, in particular marine electronics, engines, and electrical system. Photos of Jammy and projects are available [here](http://photos.sailbits.com/Jammy?ref=seabits.com). Over the years, I did major work on her – everything from completely replacing the entire electrical system, to adding over 50 NMEA 2000 network devices to a brand new network I built from scratch. Many of those adventures are cataloged here on this site, but many are not. Over time I hope to document those that are missing. # Projects Below is a partial list of projects and updates I did on Jammy over the years. - Doyle sails with stack-pack - Engine repower / replacement - Complete electrical system rewire/replacement - NMEA 2000 bus throughout boat - CradlePoint and then Pepwave WiFi / 4G router - MasterVolt charger - Garmin MFD - Multiple VHF radios - Multiple AIS Class-B transponders - [Simrad NSS and then NSE network](https://seabits.com/simrad-nse12-br24/) - B&G Zeus(2) network - B&G Triton displays - Maretron instruments (many) - Fusion Marine Radios (two) - Raymarine i70 displays - BR24 digital radar - Navico WM-2 Sirius Weather/Radio - Remote Commander for AutoPilot (WR20) - Actisense gateways to various devices - Simrad TillerPilot autopilot - [SignalK server](https://seabits.com/signalk-first-look/) - LED replacement of all interior and exterior lights - DMK Yacht instrument - Front Panel Express panel replacements - [Parker fuel polishing system](https://seabits.com/parker-fuel-polishing-system-installed/) I’m sure I’m forgetting a few – I intend on adding more details as soon as I can. # Network Jammy had an extensive NMEA 2000 and otherwise network on her. At the height of the design, there was over a megabyte per minute of data being generated by the NMEA 2000 bus alone. The bus itself had over 40 devices living on it, and that didn’t count the Ethernet, wireless, and non marine focused networks. She was used by multiple vendors including Maretron, DMK, Navico, and SignalK to debug their software/hardware that tended to explode or have issues at these levels of traffic. Below is an example of the network from 2012\. Click for a larger version to zoom in on. ![Jammy Electronics](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2013/03/Jammy-Electronics.png) ### s/v Grace URL: https://seabits.com/grace/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T14:58:57.000Z Grace was my 2001 Beneteau 311 sailboat from July 2015 through October 2018\. I had always wanted to own a Beneteau after years of seeing their beautiful interiors, sleek lines, and fantastic sailing capabilities. She moved on to new owners on October 31st (Halloween!) 2018. My last sailboat [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), who was part of the family for 11+ years, had more networking and electronics than any sailboat should, and with *Grace*, things don’t appear to be much different. She only had basic instruments to begin with, and I’ve added quite a few things for ease of use and networking. # Completed Projects ## Network / Instruments - [Intel NUC boat server](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/) - [New AC & DC panels](https://seabits.com/completed-navigation-panel/) - [New navigation panel](https://seabits.com/completed-navigation-panel/) - [Raymarine ITC-5 wind/depth upgrade](https://seabits.com/raymarine-itc-5-simplifies-older-st-instruments/) - [PowerPod for instruments at driving station](https://seabits.com/navpod-powerpod-saving-helm-station/) - [Raymarine Axiom MFD](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/) - [Raymarine STng to N2K converter (to connect older ST series instruments to N2K bus)](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/) - [NMEA 2000 bus / power / creation](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/) - Raymarine Quantum Radar + radar pole - Raymarine EV1 autopilot – included ACU-100, EV1, and replacement ST4000+ mk2 wheel pilot - [B&G DSC V50 VHF and H50 wireless remote](https://seabits.com/bg-v50-vhf-radio-h50-wireless-handset/) - [BoatCommand remote monitoring](https://seabits.com/boat-command-initial-install/) - [Raymarine es78 MFD](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/) (retired) ## Power - [Victron LiFePO4 system](https://seabits.com/correcting-the-list-lifepo4-power-system-design/) - [USB outlets](https://seabits.com/usb-power-solutions-simple/) - [SmartThings IoT temp and heater control](https://seabits.com/smartthings-keeps-boat-warm-winter/) - [Balmar Battery bank monitor](https://seabits.com/power-system-design/) - [MasterVolt DC power system including shunt, distribution, charger, control panel.](https://seabits.com/power-system-design/) - [New Firefly battery bank](https://seabits.com/power-system-design/) - SmartPlug shore power replacement ## Sailing - Doyle Cradle Cover - Folding cockpit wheel - Electric windlass and chain+rope rode ## Comfort - [Raritan electric head](https://seabits.com/replacing-head-crews-favorite-upgrade/) - [Wallas Heater](https://seabits.com/installing-wallas-heater/) - [Ambient cabin lighting](https://seabits.com/ambient-led-cabin-lights/) - [LED for cabin lights](https://seabits.com/halogen-light-replacement-cree-leds/) - LED for navigation lights - [WiFi / LTE network](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/) - [Cockpit door replacement](https://seabits.com/replacing-cockpit-hatch-boards-zarcor-doors/) - [Fridge Optimizer](https://seabits.com/save-battery-beer-stainless-lobster-fridge-optimizer/) - Replace CD changer radio – Fusion stereo - Stern seat cushions - Pedestal replacement # Specifications ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/106842_0_070320091728_2.jpg) *2000 Beneteau 311* - LOA 32’3″ - LWL 28’10” - Beam 10’7″ - Mast length (over water) 46’7″ - Draft (standard) 4’9″ - Sail Area 538 sq. ft. - Ballast (standard) 2,425 lbs. - Displacement 8,047 lbs. (approx.) - Engine 18 hp - Fuel Capacity 17 gal. - Water Capacity 48 gal. - Hull / Designer Finot / Conq # Rig Tension/Size ![beneteau-311-rig-tension](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/beneteau-311-rig-tension.png) # Network Grace’s network is a work in progress, and probably always will be. Her current setup is below. Updated June 2017 – click for larger version ![Grace's electronics as of June 2017](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/Grace-Electronics-2017-June.jpg) Grace’s electronics as of June 2017 ### Weather URL: https://seabits.com/weather/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T14:59:14.000Z I love weather – observing it, being in a big storm, gathering data, and understanding how it changes what I do both on and off the water. To that end, I have some tools and sites I use listed below, and also details on stations I either run or have helped build. # Tools / Websites ## General Weather For general, non-marine weather, I use a few tools regularly: - University of Washington Atmospheric Sciences – [Northwest Observational Data](https://atmos.washington.edu/data/?ref=seabits.com) – tons of data to choose from depending on what you are planning/looking for. Some of the key ones are: – [Western Washington Zone Forecast](https://atmos.washington.edu/data/zone%5Freport.KSEW.html?ref=seabits.com) - [Latest Western Washington surface map](https://atmos.washington.edu/cgi-bin/latest.cgi?sfcplots-wwa&ref=seabits.com) - Weather Underground – [Seattle](https://www.wunderground.com/weather/us/wa/seattle?ref=seabits.com) – a favorite for a long time. I prefer the [10 day forecast](https://www.wunderground.com/forecast/us/wa/seattle?cm%5Fven=localwx%5F10day&ref=seabits.com) for longer range planning – their graphic showing all of the data from temp, rain, wind, and more is excellent. - [National Weather Service Seattle](https://www.weather.gov/sew/?ref=seabits.com) – good jumping off point to all things NWS, plus a summary graphic in the center of the page. ## Marine Weather Marine weather is a bit more finicky to plan around, and as such, I use a number of tools to help with that process: - [National Weather Service Seattle Marine page](https://www.wrh.noaa.gov/sew/marine%5Fonly.php?ref=seabits.com) – great page maintained by NWS with all of the various marine data they provide. - Coastal Waters Forecast – this is the one I use **the most** for planning on the water. There are two versions of it, and I prefer the one from the UW – it is much better formatted and shows up nicely on a phone or mobile device, which I use frequently when planning. – UW: [Coastal Waters Forecast](https://atmos.washington.edu/data/marine%5Freport.html?ref=seabits.com) - NWS: [Coastal Waters Forecast](https://www.wrh.noaa.gov/total%5Fforecast/getprod.php?prod=XXXCWFSEW&wfo=SEW&ref=seabits.com) - [NWS Marine Portal](https://preview.weather.gov/edd/index.php?t=marine&lat=48.3660892988797&lon=-123.30151367187204&zoom=8&ql=TFTFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF&ml=&bm=Google%5FTerrain&lsr=F&lfc=T&rt=obs&rf=major%7Cmoderate%7Cminor%7Caction&ht=threat&pid=N0Q&sf=GOES%5FInfrared&ri=15&obs=TFTTFFFFFFTFFFFT&is=1&ou=mph&od=-50&ships=F&cluster=T&radO=0.75&satO=0.75&hazO=0.7&tropO=0.7&ndfdO=0.7&ndfdR=Continental%5FUS&ndfdF=Maximum%5FTemperature%5F%28%C2%BAF%29&ndfdT=12&ndfdTS=&f100=F&lviz=F&fullscreen=F&fxt=Point%5F%28Text%5FOnly%29&ppd=24&pdy=3&satf=60&obsync=F&owv=F&flavor=Advanced&tfo=&tfd=null&tfw=null&ht=F&hd=F&ho=null&hf=null&hb=F&ot=Meteorological%5FObservation&hvt=F&sht=T&uwl=F&ref=seabits.com) – this is an experimental, graphical - [Ferry Weather](http://i90.atmos.washington.edu/ferry/Ferryjs/mainframe1.htm?ref=seabits.com) – Washington State Ferries and the UW take the wind data off of moving ferries. Not very frequent but still good data. # Stations I run several weather stations including: - [Nile Weather](http://nileweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) – at our family cabin near Nile, WA - [Friday Harbor Weather](http://fridayharborweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) – maintained by [Steve Roberts](https://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) on his boat and [documented here](https://seabits.com/weather-boat-via-weewx-ambient/). - [Ocean Park Weather](http://oceanparkweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) – friends weather station that I maintain near Long Beach, WA In addition, I submit information to a number of other websites and services below: - [Weather Underground](http://www.wunderground.com/personal-weather-station/dashboard?ID=KWANACHE5&ref=seabits.com) - [Citizen Weather Observer Program](http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?call=EW4137&ref=seabits.com) - [PWS Weather](http://www.pwsweather.com/obs/NILEWA.html?ref=seabits.com) - [WeatherCloud](https://app.weathercloud.net/d0444631811?ref=seabits.com#current) - [APRS.fi](https://aprs.fi/weather/a/EW4137?ref=seabits.com) There’s more details on the dedicated site above – I am planning on trying to integrate some of this here on this site. ![weather station](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/weather-station.jpg) ### AIS URL: https://seabits.com/ais/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T14:59:39.000Z **Please see my [Services](https://seabits.com/services/) page for details on my AIS solutions.** I use a mobile base station on my boat [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) along with a dedicated VHF antenna, AIS Class-B transponder, an Intel NUC that gathers the data and forwards it to various public sites. ### OpenROV Trident URL: https://seabits.com/trident/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T14:59:53.000Z ## Remotely Operated Underwater Vehicle I was lucky enough to be part of the beta program for the [OpenROV Trident](https://www.openrov.com/products/trident/?ref=seabits.com) underwater drone. Mine was named [Rhenium](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhenium?ref=seabits.com) by the OpenROV folks. > Note: I no longer recommend or use this platform. Sofar Technology has discontinued the product, and after 2 years of continuously failing motors, slow support, and poor customer service, I can no longer rely on this product. I would look elsewhere for your ROV needs. I am currently diving Rhenium with a 75 foot and 300 foot tether. She has a 95 watt hour battery on board which powers the ROV as well as the topsides “buoy”, which you can see in the picture below. The ROV is in the top middle of the picture, and the topsides is the white item in the middle of the black oval on the right hand side. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Rhenium-Trident-OpenROV-drone-on-stern-platform-and-topsides-1024x683.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/300-foot-tether.jpg) 300 foot tether on reel with topsides attached The 300 foot tether has become the primary way I deploy the ROV from Rendezvous. Even though I rarely use all of it, the reel makes retrieval much easier than the smaller version. I generally pay out 100-200 feet of tether on the deck first in a pile so that the ROV can pull it into the water as I maneuver away. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/JXD.jpg) JXD Android Controller I’ve used the OpenROV-branded JXD Android controller for most of my dives, but I’m not crazy about it. It has Xbox like controls, but the two sticks are the only buttons used while diving. I’ve found them to be very tactile, but not as accurate as I would like. You can use on-screen controls, which with the JXD are not very good because of the lack of horsepower and poor touch screen. I have used my DJI CrystalSky display (used with my drones) for a number of dives and prefer it for on-screen controls. I dive primarily off of my boat [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) around the Puget Sound area. In particular I am interested in diving around the anchorages and marinas that I visit frequently, and seeing some of the wonderful sea life that I hear divers talk about all of the time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/Rhenium-Trident-OpenROV-drone-on-stern-platform.jpg) Here you can see the ROV ready to dive with the kevlar-reinforced tether attached, as well as the velcro holding it securely to the tail. The battery lights are also barely visible on the very stern of the ROV. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/1.png) I’ve found diving in marinas to be the most interesting of all. There is a surprising amount of food growth in those areas, and that attracts lots of marine life. Pilings and sunken stuff tend to be the most interesting. Plus, I can do some checks on running gear and such for neighbors and friends. # Videos I have a [Trident OpenROV Playlist](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBMcR50YiTMiQnKVkXHYlWVvyj1Qn37Aw&ref=seabits.com) on YouTube with a bunch of different dives. Here are some of my favorites – note that some of the early dives were recorded in 720P standard definition as that was the only quality available. ### Marine Electronics Forums URL: https://seabits.com/forums/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T15:00:14.000Z ![SailBits-Panbo-Marine-Electronics-Forums-1024](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-Panbo-Marine-Electronics-Forums-1024.png) SeaBits has teamed up with Panbo to provide the [Marine Electronics Forums](https://www.panbo.com/marineelectronicsforum/?ref=seabits.com). Join the Bens from Panbo and Steve from SeaBits in discussing all things marine electronics. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/ben-stein-profile.jpeg) Ben Stein & Family, Panbo Publisher ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/ben-ellison-profile.jpg) Ben Ellison, Panbo Senior Editor ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/steve-mitchell-profile.jpg) Steve Mitchell, SeaBits Editor [Go to Forums](https://www.panbo.com/marineelectronicsforum/?ref=seabits.com) ### Grace - 2000 32 foot Beneteau Sailboat for Sale URL: https://seabits.com/grace-for-sale/ Last updated: 2025-04-14T17:40:19.000Z ## Sold October 2018 [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) has been part of my family since 2015, and has been lovingly maintained and upgraded. The time has come to move to a larger boat, and Grace needs a new home. Many of the products and systems discussed on [SailBits](https://sailbits.com/?ref=seabits.com) are installed on Grace, and come with the boat! This is your chance to own a fully tricked-out, meticulously maintained Beneteau 311 sailboat! She is fully loaded with all of the latest electronics and control systems, and has had all major systems upgraded or improved in the last 3 years. Over $30,000 has been invested in improving the reliability, comfort, and safety both at the dock and on the water. Belowdecks you’ll find a well appointed cabin with energy efficient LED lights, and ambient strip lighting throughout. A brand new navigation and control area, along with an efficient Wallas diesel heater, air conditioner, and an electric head. With a queen stern berth, and a spacious v-berth, combined with the comfort and systems upgrades, you can be assured of years of reliable service as a capable overnighter, or as a fantastic cruiser. Grace sails amazingly well, is very stable under way and at anchor, and motors comfortably at 7 knots. She was hauled and painted in 2016, and all zincs were replaced and hull inspected in June 2018. ## Specifications ![Beneteau-311-specs](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Beneteau-311-specs.png) ![106842_0_070320091728_2](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/106842_0_070320091728_2.jpg "106842_0_070320091728_2") ## Major Upgrades - New LiFePO4 power system - Wallas diesel heater - LED light conversion throughout - Electronics galore - Electric head - 3-blade Gori folding prop - Custom control / power / navigation panel - Mainsail Cradle Cover and sail management system - Complete steering station redesign - Electric windlass and 150′ chain rode + new anchor - Stereo, speakers, TV - Custom Zarcor cockpit doors ## Engine / Propeller **Manufacturer**: Yanmar **Model**: 2GM20F **Hours**: 695 Propeller: Gori 3-blade folding (read more here) new 2018 ## Power System Victron LiFePO4 system (read more on the design here) including: - BlueSea Systems 360 panels for DC and AC control - 300 amp hour Victron LiFePO4 battery – house bank - 3000W / 120A Victron MultiPlus inverter/charger - Victron BMV-712 battery monitor system - 200W solar panels and Victron MPPT controller - Victron Color control GX display - High output Electromaxx alternator and control system - Victron control relays and battery management system - 50′ 30A shore power cable with SmartPlug end - 30 AMP BlueSea ELCI breaker ## Electronics ### Helm - Raymarine Axiom 9″ MFD in rotating custom NavPod - 2x Raymarine i70 displays - Raymarine i70 autopilot control display - Raymarine Quantum WiFi radar - Raymarine ST4000+ autopilot - Raymarine EV-1 course computer and ACU-100 - Standard Horizon RAM3 remote mic connected to VHF below ### Belowdecks - Maretron DSM 410 display - Maretron DST 110 depth/speed/temp sensor - Maretron TLM tank sensors for fresh water / holding tank - Standard Horizon GX2200 VHF radio - Raspberry Pi 7″ display system running SignalK and showing custom data ### Other - AMEC WideLink AIS Class-B transponder with dedicated VHF and GPS antennas on stern arch - Shakespeare VHF antenna atop mast with new cabling direct to VHF radio - LCJ Capteurs CV7 ultrasonic wind instrument atop mast – provides highly accurate wind data, as well as barometric pressure - Full NMEA 2000 / Raymarine SeaTalkNG network See Grace’s 2017 network for an example of the integration. ## Sailing / Rigging - Main: excellent condition - Jib: standard and storm jib in excellent condition - Spinnaker - Furlex furler for jib - Doyle Cradle Cover for mainsail - Running rigging in excellent condition – much of it updated/replaced in the last 3 years - Standing rigging inspected in 2017 and had no issues, in excellent condition - Mast was completely removed and all wiring reworked in 2018 - 2 reef points in mainsail – run to cockpit and easy to use - LCJ Capteurs CV7 ultrasonic wind instrument atop mast, tied into autopilot and Raymarine systems to allow for hands free sailing angles ## Internet / Networking - Peplink MAX transit LTE & WiFi router - BoatAnt LTE antenna mounted on stern arch - MikroTik Groove WiFi booster mounted on stern arch and connected to Peplink - weBoost 4G-X booster connected between LTE antenna and Peplink - Ethernet switch for local devices See Grace’s Redundant Internet for more details. ## Cockpit - Custom Zarcor cockpit doors with three window inserts – white opaque, smoke, bug screen - Bimini with see through window for windex viewing - Two long teak inlaid benches with seating for 6+ - Stern perch seats with excellent visibility - Center captains seat removes for easy access to swim step - Well appointed helm station with electronics, engine control panel, NavPod with chartplotter and more - Folding wheel to allow for better cockpit use at dock/anchor - White / blue dimmable ambient cockpit lights - Magma BBQ mounted on stern rail - Massive lazarette with room to store extensive gear ## Salon - Large open area with folding table - High ceilings allow almost 6′ clearance in middle - Wine storage in center of table - Bench seating for 6 comfortably - 24″ Vizio TV wired into boat-wide stereo - Large storage areas underneath and behind seating - Oversize window in roof above salon/galley area for light - Rails behind seating for storage - Lower portlights provide ambient light - Upper portlights provide great ventilation and light - Hatch near v-berth entrance - LED strip lighting throughout salon added to provide ambient light ## Comfort - Heating: Wallas 30DT diesel heater with remote control panel in master queen stateroom. - Cooling: CruisAir 15,000 BTU air conditioner – rare on a boat this size - Fusion Marine RA-70 stereo with two zones of speakers – salon and cockpit - Centrally controlled LED strip lighting in salon and queen berth – can be set to white or any color - Full boat water filter ## Anchoring & Docking - Rocna 33 pound main anchor - Maxwell HRC FF-8 windlass - AutoAnchor wireless remote control for windlass - 150′ of 5/16″ Grade 43 HT chain - 150′ of 5/8″ 8 braid anchor rope - Mantus anchor swivel - Mantus 35′ dual anchor bridle with chain grabber - Fortress Guardian 13 lb secondary anchor with chain/rope rode - 5 oversized fenders with covers and easy adjust hangers - Plenty of dock lines - Extra long 50′ lines for locks ## Galley - First Wave two burner propane stove and oven - Sink with hot/cold water - Deep dry goods storage bin - Locking cabinets - Silverware drawer - Prep area/counter - DC fridge using Fridge Optimizer across companionway ## Owners Berth - Queen sized berth - Heating controls for diesel heater - Rails for storage - Cabinet storage areas - Standing area with closing door for privacy ## V-Berth - Overhead lighting - Hatch for ventilation and light - Rail storage for items - Cabinet with storage to port in berth - Storage under entry portion of v-berth as well as forwards ## Safety - New LifeSling 2 (2018) - Automatic LED anchor light atop mast - LED navigation lights - LED deck light - CO2 alarm in main cabin - Fire alarm - Fire extinguishers - Flares and signaling devices. All lighting was replaced or upgraded in the last 3 years. All mast wiring was completely replaced in 2018. ## Head - New Raritan electric head in 2017 - Replaced majority of hoses with Raritan Sani Flex odorless hose - New Y-valve - Sink with extendable nozzle - Shower mount for nozzle - Bilge pump control from within shower area - Entire space is sealed and can all get wet - Mirror - All pumps and control valves beneath sink ## Other - CloZure window shades for all portholes - Bug screens for all windows - Full canvas boat cover for winter / protection - Covers for all items – winches, helm, hatches, etc. - Dock side step - 2x 5 gallon diesel cans - Standard Horizon HX851 floating DSC capable VHF radio ### Interested in Grace? Send me a message, and I’d be happy to chat! ### m/v Rendezvous URL: https://seabits.com/rendezvous/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T15:02:43.000Z Rendezvous is a 1988 Ocean Alexander 420 Sundeck motor yacht. She became part of our family in November of 2018\. After 25+ years sailing, we decided to move to power (see [Sailing Towards Power)](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/) to allow for a bigger platform for more [projects](https://seabits.com/category/projects/) and experimentation, while being able to go further in our cruising grounds of Puget Sound and the Salish Sea. She is setup to accommodate 4 adults over night very comfortably, but in a pinch can handle more, especially for day cruising. With a queen master, v-berth, spacious salon, galley, and dinette, interior space is setup to allow for comfort while underway and at anchor. Outdoors, there is a big sun deck, and a covered flybridge with tons of seating. There’s also a Highfield 10′ aluminum bottom dinghy with 15HP engine that scoots along at 20 knots when you need to go exploring. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/01-Rendezvous-drone-view-1-1024x768.jpg) ## Specifications - Length: 42′ LWL / 46′ LOA - Beam: 13 feet 11 inches - Dry weight: 27,000 pounds - Engines: Dual Volvo Penta TAMD 61A 310HP with intercooler, aftercooler and turbo - Total horsepower: 620 - Cruising Speed: 11 knots - Maximum Speed: 20 knots - Fresh Water Tank: 150 Gallons - Fuel Tank: 300 Gallons - Holding Tank: 35 Gallons ## Projects ### Completed Projects 2019 - [Vesper Cortex VHF / AIS](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/) - [NMEA 2000 connected Raspberry Pi for SignalK monitoring](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/) - [Furuno SCX-20 Satellite Compass](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/) - [Internet setup for 2020](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/) - [LiFePO4 house battery bank, new alternators, Victron inverter + system](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/) - [Wakespeed regulators](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/) - [Docking and engine room cameras](https://seabits.com/docking-and-engine-room-cameras/) - New engine start and generator AGM batteries - [Peplink MAX transit LTE router](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/) - [weBoost LTE amplifier with Wilson antenna](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/) - [MikroTik Groove WiFi booster](https://seabits.com/tag/mikrotik/) - I[ntel NUC Linux system](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/) running [SignalK](https://seabits.com/tag/signalk/) - [NMEA 2000 network](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/) - [Ethernet network](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/) - [Yacht Devices temp/humidity sensors](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/) - Yacht Devices Gateway - [Actisense EMU-1 NMEA 2000](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/) engine monitor - Maretron DSM150 display - Digital Yachts AIT2500 AIS Class B+ transponder - [Rose Point Nemo gateway](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/) - Furuno TZT2 MFDs - Furuno DRS4D-NXT radar - Furuno RD-33 and FI-70 displays - [Furuno NavPilot 300 auto pilot](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) - AXIS camera server with docking and engine room cameras - [Furuno FM-4800 VHF radio](https://seabits.com/furuno-fm-4800/) - [New LED lighting everywhere](https://seabits.com/new-lighting-everywhere/) - [Ultrasonic diesel tank sensor](https://seabits.com/diesel-tank-monitoring-with-maretron-tl/) - [Radar & navigation light mount](https://seabits.com/seaview-more-than-mounts/) - LCJ Capteurs Ultrasonic wind sensor - Aqua Signal LED navigation lights - Fusion radio & speakers - [Rocna anchor](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/) - [Mantus chain hook and dbRopes bridle](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/) ### **Future Projects** - New TV / mount / sound bar - Fuel flow monitoring system - Various dimmers for lights outside/inside - New smoke / CO2 alarm system - Rebuild captains chairs in flybridge ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Rendezvous-arch-labeled-1024x768.jpeg) ## Network ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/Rendezvous-Network-2.png) You can read more specifics about my extensive network at [Rendezvous Initial Networks](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/). ## Virtual Walk Through ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/01-cockpit.jpg) Enter via a large swim step with the 10′ Highfield dinghy and outboard held in place by a SeaWise davit system. The cockpit has space for line handline, buoy storage, and a lazarette with tons of storage. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/08/r-outdoor-table.jpg) Up from the cockpit is the open sun deck – one of the most requested things by the crew. I tend to like being under cover most of the time, as I get burned easily. The rest of the crew likes the sun when we’re at anchor or even underway, and this big open space will be excellent for them. I really like the clear plastic surround instead of canvas or something obscuring so you can continue to enjoy the views! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/Rendezvous-arch-1.jpg) Above the sun deck is a beautiful arch that is motorized, and lowers down to the deck for storage. I plan on using that feature to allow me to add/remove antennas, test devices, and tons of other stuff without dealing with a ladder. I’ve upgraded everything up here in the last few months to include a new Furuno DRS4D-NXT radar, Wilson LTE antenna, MikroTik Groove WiFi booster, LCJ Capteurs Ultrasonic wind sensor, and LED navigation lights. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/03-flybridge-back.jpg) My favorite place to drive is from the flybridge. Not only is visibility amazing, but it is very comfortable, and has plenty of electronics. There’s also plenty of storage near the electronics, and two great chairs to hang out in while underway. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/04-flybridge-seating.jpg) There’s a large couch behind the chairs, and a lounge/couch area on the starboard side. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/Rendezvous-flybridge.jpg) I recently replaced all of the electronics here, and added a lot more. I chose to go with Furuno TZT2 displays along with a [NavPilot 300](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) and an FI-70 display. There’s control of the windlass, trim tabs, and various lights and items, plus of course an entire set of engine controls and gauges. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/10-bow.jpg) The entire deck is enclosed with high railings, with walkable side decks up from the sun deck to the bow. The bow has a lot of space and a nice speedy Maxwell windlass along with the usual deck wash down. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/11-flybrige-from-bow.jpg) Looking back at the flybridge, you can see the full enclosure and big windows below into the salon. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/IMG_1640.jpg) Heading back to the sun deck, through the door down into the main salon area. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/08/IMG_3711.jpg) The main salon area has an L-shaped couch with a nice height adjustable teak/glass table. One of the things I love about the main area is all of the low windows which let you see out even while sitting. For someone who gets seasick easily, that is super nice. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/22-breakfast-bar.jpg) Just to the right of the salon couch is a breakfast bar with stools, and an amazing ice maker that makes some of the coldest ice I have ever had. That is critical for cocktails! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/08/IMG_3233.jpg) Further to the right is the salon driving station with even more engine instrumentation, autopilot, chartplotter, and pretty wood wheel. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/30-dinette.jpg) Stepping down forward from the salon, to the right is the 4 person dinette, which has a hidden second freezer underneath the seat for longer trips. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/31-galley.jpg) To the left is the galley which has a bunch of great counter space, drawers galore, stove and oven, and a Sea Freeze fridge/freezer, plus a hidden away microwave. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/IMG_1074.jpg) Just forward of the galley and dinette is the v-berth and guest/day head. Even more storage up here, with a hanging locker for guests and plenty of drawers. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/IMG_1778.jpg) Heading aft out of the salon and down into the master island queen bedroom. Even more drawers, two huge hanging closets, storage shelves, a vanity, and an en-suite head and shower on the port side. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/50-elec-panel.jpg) She has a good electrical setup with a well labeled panel and even some spare spots left over for new toys! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/08/IMG_3452.jpg) Author in the engine room The salon floor comes up if you want to access the whole engine room, but there are also two stairways that fold up to give you quick access. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/51-engines.jpg) Two Volvo Penta TAMD 61A 310HP engines purr away quietly underneath the salon floor. There’s also a watermaker, Webasto diesel heater, Victron 3000W inverter/charger, water heater, engine/house/generator batteries, and much more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/52-generator.jpg) An Onan 9kw GenSet is also in the engine room and helps keep all of my toys up and running. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/92-haul.jpg) She has double-chine semi-displacement hull, and seems to do well cruising along at 8 knots in displacement mode, or getting up on plane at 16 knots when you need to get out of the way of an oncoming ferry. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/91-props.jpg) ## Original Listing Details below: **Accommodations** Salon: - Large Open Salon - L Shaped Settee to Port - Settee Converts to Full Size Berth - Storage Under Settee - Teak Hi-Lo Table - Teak Parquet Flooring - Salon Carpeting - Breakfast Bar - Salon Stools for Breakfast Bar - Salon Ice Maker – Sea Freeze - Large Salon Windows - Webasto Diesel Furnace Control - Lower Helm station - TV with Intellian satellite system Master Stateroom: - Queen Size Walk Around Berth - Teak Cabinetry - Chest of Drawers to Starboard - Storage Above Drawers - Starboard Forward Full Length Locker with Shelves - Port Side Vanity with Fold Away Stool - Storage Port Side - Aft Port Side Corner Locker - Full Length Hanging Locker – Port Side Forward - Teak Privacy Door from Salon - Aft Large Opening Hatch - Access to Master Head - Overhead Lighting - Reading Lights - Night stands with Power Outlets Master Head: - Vac-u-Flush Toilet - Sink with Hot/Cold Faucet - Under Sink Storage - Medicine Cabinet with storage - Stall Shower - Opening Portlight V-berth Stateroom: - Port & Starboard Single Bunks - Storage Under Port Bunk - Chest f Drawers Under Starboard Bunk - Large Hanging Locker - Overhead Hatch - Power Outlets - Access to VIP / Day Head - Teak Privacy Door VIP / Day Head: - Vac-u-Flush Toilet - Sink with Hot/Cold Water Faucet Flybridge / SunDeck: - Large Flybridge - Dual Helm Chairs - Settee to Starboard - Aft Bench - Storage Under Bench - Storage Under Helm - Large Open Sundeck - Access to Side Decks **Galley** - Updated Sea-Freeze Refrigerator with Larger Capacity - 3 Burner Stove with Oven - Microwave - Stainless Steel Sink with Faucet - Large Counter Space - Under Counter Storage - Opening Portlight - Fan - Bright and Open Galley Dinette: - Seating for 4 - Teak Table - Additional Freezer Under Dinette - Storage Drawers under Dinette - Storage Under Forward Cushions **Electronics** Upper Helm: - Furuno NavNet Multi Function Display - Furuno Radar - Furuno Auto-Pilot - Furuno Chartploting GPS - Furuno Sonar - Furuno RD-33 - Standar Horizon GX2150 VHF - AIS - Windlass Control - Trim Tab Controls Lower Helm: - Northstar Chartplotter - Furuno Auto-Pilot - Furuno RD-33 - Standard Horizon VHF - Watermaker Control Panel - Weather Station - Windlass Control - Trim Tab Controls Audio Visual Electronics: - New Intellian SAT TV Dome - Salon Flat Panel TV - Pioneer AM/FM CD Player - Speakers in Master, Salon and v-berth **Electrical** - 30 Amp Shore power Connection - 30 Amp Shoere power Cord - Onan 8kW Generator - Magnum 2500W Inverter - NEW Batteries in 2018 - 6V Batteries in Series for Inverter - 8D Start Batteries - 4D Generator Start Battery - AC/DC Distribution Panel **Deck** - 3/4 Canvas Enclosure on Bridge - Large Sundeck - Folding Arch for Low Clearance Moorage - NEW carpet on Sundeck - Canvas Covers for Flybridge Upholstery - Canvas Covers for Windshield and Side Windows - Sun Screen Covers for Windshield and Side Windows - Windlass - Forward Fresh Water Washdown - Cockpit - Teak Deck in Cockpit - Teak Caprail with Covers - Swim Step - Sea-Wise Davit - Trim Tabs - Stern Shore Tie Reels with Rope - Stern Anchor **Additional Units Included** - 2016 Highfield Dinghy and 15HP Mercury EFI 4-stroke engine ### About Steve URL: https://seabits.com/about-steve/ Last updated: 2026-06-05T18:45:24.000Z Steve grew up on a Christmas Tree Farm and spent the majority of his childhood outdoors, learning everything from construction to engines to electrical design from his father. He also started playing piano at age 3, and went on to participate in a number of musical groups up through college, which he attended as a Music Major. Boating and the water have always been a big part of Steve’s life, having grown up in [Gig Harbor](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gig%5FHarbor,%5FWashington?ref=seabits.com), near the waters of [Puget Sound](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puget%5FSound?ref=seabits.com), about an hour south of Seattle. His first experiences on the water centered around small Sunfish and Lasers, all sailed on nearby lakes. In later years, most spare time was spent on the waters of nearby Fox Island, Wollochet Bay, and Gig Harbor on anything that floated. Along the way, Steve developed a deep love for computers and technical engineering. He built and ran one of the largest bulletin board systems (BBS) on the west coast, and participated in some of the first parts of the Internet in its infancy. He dove head first into systems and network administration, and started working for various companies in the Seattle/Tacoma area. These included National Distributing, Sagem Morpho, Simpson Tacoma Kraft, WON.net, Sierra Entertainment, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/21481707338_487e074f1d_k-1024x633.jpg) San Jose Briefing Center For the last 20 years, Steve has been employed at [F5 Networks](https://f5.com/?ref=seabits.com), an industry leader of network and security products based in Seattle, WA. His focus has been on technical engineering, complex testing, and development. He also designed and built the most progressive customer engagement spaces and cutting edge data centers for the company around the world in Seattle, London, New York and San Jose. The last 5 years have seen Steve focus on development and test teams building a modern Node.JS based application that is focused on creating complex demonstration and proof of concept environments in various cloud providers including AWS, Google, and more. Steve’s love of the water never left, and having had the opportunity to work for so many great companies and travel the world, he was able to experience new ways and places of being on the water. However, he always loved coming home, and the waters of Puget Sound. Through the 1990s and 2000s Steve owned almost exclusively sailboats including a 48′ Hunter, 34′ Beneteau, 29′ US Yachts, 26′ Clipper Marine, 30′ Catalina , and a number of sailing dinghies. He plied the waters of Puget Sound, now called the Salish Sea, and Canadian waters up to Desolation Sound and further. In the mid 1990s, Steve started to combine his love of networking with boating, and built systems to gather performance and monitoring data on board his boats. Data collection and organization has always been a passion, and various systems and projects came and went trying to provide a centralized way to see your boat data. SeaBits (also called SailBits and even before then, SteveM.net) was born in 1997 when Steve started documenting his experiences with these networks and projects. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Grace_Beneteau_311_Oceanis_on_mooring_Eagle_Island-1024x768.jpg) Grace on a mooring near Eagle Island Two of those boats were part of SeaBits for many years and archived articles about their networks and projects are available at [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) and [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/). In the early 2000s he also tried power boating for a while, and enjoyed parts of it, but was still not done with sailing yet. Further developments in cheaper cellular access, NMEA 2000, and WiFi helped Steve’s love of data and networking on a boat become more of a reality. He participates actively in [SignalK](https://signalk.org/?ref=seabits.com) and canboat open source projects, as well as many other forums and groups for networking, electronics, and more. In 2010, SeaBits started garnering wider attention, and allowed Steve to write for publications such as [Panbo](http://panbo.com/?ref=seabits.com), [Three Sheets Northwest](https://www.threesheetsnw.com/?ref=seabits.com), and most recently a recurring column in [48 North](https://48north.com/?ref=seabits.com). Steve’s last two boats contained over 100 different networked devices, had completely reworked electrical systems which provided amazing amounts of information, and generally were technical showcases. Much of the experience he learned from his civil engineer father helped to be a DIY’er when it comes to pretty much any project on the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/Rendezvous-speed-SKR-1024x769.jpg) In late 2018 Steve decided to move to power boating again, and is looking forward to the extra room and power to be able to continue his testing and love affair with technology on the boat. He can also now [include a decent sized piano aboard](https://seabits.com/boat-piano-and-storage/), which he still plays and composes new songs on actively. You can find out more details about that boat and the projects at [m/v Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/). Steve loves working on new projects and technologies, but loves speaking and writing about them even more. His passion for technology is driven by the need to share as much as possible with others so they can benefit from it as well. ### Where am I now? URL: https://seabits.com/where/ Last updated: 2024-06-09T21:19:30.000Z [Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/) has multiple tracking systems aboard. Most of them are on all the time, but some only really show useful information when I am on a trip. The best way to track me is via my [Saillogger page here](https://saillogger.com/mvaruna?ref=seabits.com). This automatically updates every few seconds, and unless I've had some terrible failure or am not connected to the Internet, should be the most reliable. ## Automatic Identification System [Automatic Identification System](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic%5Fidentification%5Fsystem?ref=seabits.com) (AIS) is a VHF radio based broadcast system that allows individual boats to share their location with base stations. I am a [mobile base station myself](https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/stations/1700?ref=seabits.com), and gather data from other boats within my antenna range. AIS requires a base station with an internet connection to work reliably. If my internet connection is not reliable, then I rely on a base station somewhere else picking up my VHF broadcasts. As a result, this position may not be 100% accurate or current – check the time stamp. ### Voyage Planning Tools URL: https://seabits.com/voyage-planning-tools/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T15:08:39.000Z There are a number of tools I use for voyage planning, listed and maintained below. Since I cruise mostly in Puget Sound/Salish Sea and places nearby, these are specific to those areas further down the page. ## General Tools There’s a set of general tools I use for planning voyages that include the following: **Time Zero** – I use the PC version primarily, but have used the iPad TZ iBoat version as well when that is the only device available. I prefer the PC version as it is easier to build routes more accurately and see the effect of tide and current on different times of the day. Being able to slide back and forth in time to see the effect of tides, as well as the route protection planning that TZ has to make sure you’re not near something **Navionics on iPad/iPhone** – in particular, I use Navionics Autoroute feature to figure out the distance between two points for planning purposes. I don’t use the actual route that is created, as I’ve seen too many errors and issues. I also use Navionics on the iPad to do random exploration and planning when I don’t have my PC running TimeZero. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/Predictwind.png) PredictWind table **[PredictWind](https://forecast.predictwind.com/table/?ref=seabits.com)** – I pay for a subscription to this tool, and use it’s table feature extensively when looking at wind. Their predictions have been frighteningly accurate for years even in our micro-climate of Puget Sound. You can read more about [how they get so accurate](https://www.predictwind.com/why-predictwind-forecast/?ref=seabits.com). I personally rely on the PWE forecast the most, as it is the highest resolution ECMWF forecast combined with PredictWind technology, and has been very, very accurate. I use both the website on the computer, and an app on the iPhone/iPad/Android world. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/windy.png) **[Windy](https://www.windy.com/?47.634,-122.468,10&ref=seabits.com)** – this is another wind prediction tool with a lot of great local data. It is very visual, and works both as a website and an app. **Google Sheets** – I use spreadsheets for day by day planning including distance estimates, fuel burn, page numbers for cruising guides, **[AyeTides](https://apps.apple.com/us/app/ayetides/id287316432?ref=seabits.com)** – great app for the iPhone to see tides all over the place. **Random websites** – there are a number of specific websites, many listed below, based on particular areas I travel in. ## Location Specific There are a number of location specific tools I use depending on what waters I am in. NOAA – these folks put out good text forecasts for wind info in a number of areas. I’ve linked to the specific areas below. [Environment Canada](https://weather.gc.ca/marine/region%5Fe.html?mapID=02&ref=seabits.com) – for all of the Pacific South Coast area, this is the main page to jump off into individual forecasts, cited below. I actually prefer EC’s forecasts and pages to NOAA’s where possible (they don’t all overlap) because of the additional information they include on the page that is marine-specific. ### Puget Sound - [NOAA Puget Sound Forecast](https://forecast.weather.gov/shmrn.php?mz=pzz135&syn=pzz100&ref=seabits.com) – best text forecast - [WPOW1](https://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station%5Fpage.php?station=wpow1&ref=seabits.com) – West Point buoy showing wind and weather near my home marina, and in the central part of the whole sound. - [Windy](https://www.windy.com/?47.634,-122.468,10&ref=seabits.com) ### Strait of Juan de Fuca / San Juans I generally check Admiralty first, as it can get bumpy in that short stretch of water, then the East Entrance, which I usually cross at, and also Central, to see what is coming my way. Strait of Juan de Fuca – East Entrance - [NOAA](https://forecast.weather.gov/shmrn.php?mz=pzz132&syn=pzz100&ref=seabits.com) - [Environment Canada](https://weather.gc.ca/marine/forecast%5Fe.html?mapID=02&siteID=07003&ref=seabits.com) Strait of Juan de Fuca – Central Waters - [NOAA](https://forecast.weather.gov/shmrn.php?mz=pzz131&syn=pzz100&ref=seabits.com) - [Environment Canada](https://weather.gc.ca/marine/forecast%5Fe.html?mapID=02&siteID=07010&ref=seabits.com) Admiralty/San Juans - [NOAA Admiralty Inlet](https://forecast.weather.gov/shmrn.php?mz=pzz134&syn=pzz100&ref=seabits.com) - [NOAA San Juan Islands](https://forecast.weather.gov/shmrn.php?mz=pzz133&syn=pzz100&ref=seabits.com) - [Combined NOAA text forecast](https://a.atmos.washington.edu/data/marine%5Freport.html?ref=seabits.com) – I sometimes use this to see it all on one page, but it is not from NOAA and be careful - [Smith Island buoy ](https://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station%5Fpage.php?station=sisw1&ref=seabits.com)– SISW1 is a great way to see the wind out in the strait. - [Windy](https://www.windy.com/?48.487,-122.999,10&ref=seabits.com) ### Strait of Georgia - [Lightstation reports](https://weather.gc.ca/marine/weatherConditions-lightstation%5Fe.html?mapID=02&siteID=14301&ref=seabits.com) – B,D, and E reports – scroll down **Southern End** - [South of Nanaimo](https://weather.gc.ca/marine/forecast%5Fe.html?mapID=02&siteID=14305&ref=seabits.com) – click on the Weather Conditions page and all of the little dots for more realtime info. - [Halibut Bank buoy](https://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station%5Fpage.php?station=46146&ref=seabits.com) **Northern End** - [North of Nanaimo](https://weather.gc.ca/marine/forecast%5Fe.html?mapID=02&siteID=14301&ref=seabits.com) – click on the Weather Conditions page and all of the little dots for more realtime info. - [Sentry shoal](https://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station%5Fpage.php?station=46131&ref=seabits.com) ### Logos and branding URL: https://seabits.com/branding/ Last updated: 2026-02-28T17:20:59.000Z Below are logos available for use. Please do not modify or change any of the included logos without permission. There are alternate versions, colors and sizes available on request. Please [contact us](https://seabits.com/contact/) for more clarification. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Original-2.png) Standard square logo – not suitable for transparent use ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Original-on-Transparent-4.png) Square logo – transparent ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/original-transparent-long-larger-icon-full.png) Long logo – transparent ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/seabits-logo-white-on-transparent-long-smallWhite-on-Transparent-long-copy-1.png) Long logo – white – equal sizes – transparent ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/original-transparent-long-larger-icon-tiny.png) Small logo ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/02/SeaBits-icon.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/02/original-transparent-long-larger-icon-tiny.png) ### SeaBits News URL: https://seabits.com/news/ Last updated: 2021-09-23T23:54:44.000Z Join my newsletter to stay up-to-date on new reviews, projects, and more. Each newsletter is written by hand, and includes the latest article, smaller project updates and a sneak peek at upcoming stuff! ## Join 3000+ boat nerds [ Enter your email Subscribe ](#/portal) I value email privacy as much as the next person, and hate getting spam. I only use your email to send you this newsletter, and do not resell or share your details with anyone else, period. ### A site dedicated to boat technology, internet on the water, and marine electronics URL: https://seabits.com/about/ Last updated: 2026-07-01T03:35:34.000Z I created my site in 2007 as a way to share my experience and projects in marine electronics and technology. I provide [consulting services](https://seabits.com/consulting/) to boaters world wide, have a published [partner and review policy](https://seabits.com/partner/) that guarantees impartiality, and only write about things I'd use myself. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/02/IMG_6672.jpeg) Aruna in Roscoe Bay I live in Washington State aboard my boat [Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/) and travel everywhere from Seattle to British Columbia and deep into the wilds of the Inside Passage. I grew up in Gig Harbor, and have lived most of my life in Seattle proper. I've been fortunate enough to work for some amazing companies and travel the world to every continent except the two really cold ones. My last corporate job was a Senior Director at [F5 Networks](https://www.f5.com/?ref=seabits.com) responsible for Network, Storage, Systems, Identity, and Node.JS developers, DevOps engineers, and testers focused on an AWS & GCP applications lots of other systems. I've worked in the technology world since the early 1990s at companies involved with fingerprint identification, a big paper mill, gaming, online ticket sales, and hardware/software vendors. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/02/KAOS-006-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/02/SailBits-Rendezvous.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/02/03-Eagle-to-Olympia-Grace-sailing.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/02/IMG_0969.jpg) My last four boats I've been a boater since my teens, starting out with small sailboats on lakes and bays near Gig Harbor and Fox Island. I've owned boats of all shapes and sizes including my current boat [M/V Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/), a 50' steel pilot house trawler, a 58' Symbol Pilothouse [M/V Kaos](https://seabits.com/kaos/), a 46′ Ocean Alexander [m/v Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), a 34′ Beneteau [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), 32′ US Yachts [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), a couple of Catalinas, a 48′ Hunter, a scary swing keel trailerable sailboat, and a DeFever 44' trawler. I love technology and boating, and try to think of more ways to make my life on the water more comfortable and safe. I'm a statistics nerd and love anything that allows me to log and analyze data later on. I've spent the last 30 years working on boat electrical systems, internet connectivity, and all things marine electronics. ### **Facts about Steve** - I've played piano 🎹 since I was 5, and compose my own music 🎶 and can play just about any instrument you put in my hands 🎷🎺 - You can find other things I've written at [48 North](https://48north.com/?ref=seabits.com), [Nautical Northwest](https://www.nauticalnw.com/?ref=seabits.com) and [Panbo](https://panbo.com/?ref=seabits.com) ✍️ - I grew up on a Christmas Tree Farm🎄 - I started my career in computing running one of the first BBS'es on the West Coast 📞 - I have a background in network administration, software development, and electrical systems 💻 ⚡️ - I've had over 30 drones and R/C helicopters and planes 🚁 ✈️ - I love statistics and remote monitoring – boats, houses, solar panels in the middle of nowhere – anything! 📊 ## Connect With Me - [Instagram](https://www.instagram.com/seabits%5Fsteve/?ref=seabits.com) - [Facebook](https://www.facebook.com/SeaBitsBlog) - [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/seabits?ref=seabits.com) - [Email](https://seabits.com/contact) ### Hey there, I'm Steve 👋 URL: https://seabits.com/home-subscribe-old/ Last updated: 2025-03-05T20:00:41.000Z I write about [internet](https://seabits.com/tag/internet/) connectivity afloat 📡, marine electronics ⚡️, and other boating technology. I love testing new tech, taking on crazy electrical [projects](https://seabits.com/tag/projects/), and sharing my experience with others. I travel around the Salish Sea on board my boat [Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/) and provide [consulting**,** installationandtraining](https://seabits.com/consulting/) services. Please feel free to [subscribe](#/portal/signup) to my newsletter 👇 and join in the [discussion forum](https://talk.seabits.com/?ref=seabits.com), or [send me a note](https://seabits.com/contact/) if you have a question. ### Affiliate Disclosure URL: https://seabits.com/affiliate-disclosure/ Last updated: 2021-10-05T16:40:43.000Z ## SeaBits uses affiliate links I don't write articles to generate revenue. Every opinion is my own, driven by real-world use and testing, experience in a particular field, or otherwise. You can read my [Review Policy](https://seabits.com/review-policy) to understand more about that particular part of my process. Some of the links that are on my site are what you'd call an “affiliate link.” These links send you to a vendors site while also tracking that it's me sending the vendor the traffic. In return for sending them the traffic, if you buy something from them, I may make a small amount of money for what you've purchased. While I may make a dollar or two from your purchase, your purchase doesn't cost you any more or less. It's just a thank you from the vendor. All of this money goes back into the costs I incur in running the site. It rarely pays for any of my time, research or effort to write any of the content! Thanks for helping support the site! ## Posts ### Starlink announces Personal Maritime Plan URL: https://seabits.com/starlink-announces-personal-maritime-plan/ Last updated: 2026-09-04T17:17:03.000Z --- Starlink has made a lot of changes to their Roam plans in the last few months, and today they announced a new plan that helps bridge the gap for boaters affected by the recent changes to Roam Unlimited. In mid July 2026, Starlink [announced a bunch of changes](https://seabits.com/starlink-roam-plan-changes/) that left many boaters without an affordable option to continue using Starlink. I covered that in detail in the below article. [Starlink Roam Plans ChangeStarlink is retiring Global Roam and capping Roam Unlimited at 30 days abroad. Here’s what’s changing and who it affects most.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/icon/SeaBits-icon-8c2516ed-d420-4311-a81f-89f7f8164688.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/thumbnail/Screenshot-2026-07-15-at-2.54.14---PM-1-ae10eb68-e750-4b9e-9d03-3084b2644534.png)](https://seabits.com/starlink-roam-plan-changes/) The main sticking point was the 30 day timer for international travel with the Roam Unlimited plan with these new changes. Once you hit that 30 day mark, you have three choices: 1. Upgrade to a Priority Plan ($$) 2. Change your plan to the country you're in (hard to do) 3. Return to your home country The Priority Plan options are quite a bit more expensive than Roam Unlimited, changing your country isn't always an option, and returning isn't either for long term and long distance cruisers! ## Personal Maritime Plan Here's what Starlink sent out in email about the new Personal Maritime Plan: STARLINK Stay Connected on the Water Your Starlink has operated at sea in the past year. We have a new plan—****Personal Maritime**—for people who use Starlink on a vessel and stay on the water for extended periods before returning to their home country. Your current Roam plan includes coverage in territorial waters, with Ocean Mode as a paid option beyond 12 nautical miles. International use is limited to 30 days at a time outside your registered home country, after which you can return home to continue service. Effective September 27, Ocean Mode will be $6/GB. If that 30-day limit doesn’t fit how you travel, Personal Maritime may be the better option. Introducing Personal Maritime Personal Maritime keeps you connected on the water as you move between countries, without the 30-day Roam travel limit. - $185/month USD, excluding applicable taxes - ****Unlimited data and use in territorial waters worldwide** - Ocean Mode available beyond 12 nautical miles for $6/GB - No 30-day Roam international travel limit, except in extremely rare cases when required by local regulations This plan is for ****small personal vessels**—not yachts or commercially operated vessels (including ferries and commercial fishing)—and is not intended for use on land. To switch to Personal Maritime, you will be asked to provide information about your vessel: - Vessel name - Flag state - Length overall (LOA) - A unique ID (such as Hull Identification Number, Craft Identification Number, MMSI, or ITU Call Sign) - A copy of your vessel's Registration Certificate If you are interested, you can create a ticket with support below. We’ll follow-up with next steps, including terms of service. [Create Personal Maritime Ticket](https://starlink.com/api/notifications/v1/redirect/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJkZWxpdmVyeUlkIjoiOTgzMjRFQjZEMzM0NTI0QTMzMkRBMzU3RUIzMjRFQTcyQzBEMDhDRjQwMTk1REQ0NURBRDhCNDc3RDJFRTk2QyIsInJlZGlyZWN0VXJsIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zdGFybGluay5jb20vc3VwcG9ydC9jb250YWN0P3NvdXJjZVR5cGU9d2ViX2NoYXRib3RfYnlwYXNzX3YyIn0.B5yrJKDULQBI7OftWRYJnls-gkBESGgbsalQ8S2i5Yc?ref=seabits.com) ****Recap of Your Options** - ****Remain on Roam.** Continue on your current plan and follow the updated travel policy, including the 30-day international limit. Ocean Mode will be $6/GB starting September 27 - ****Switch to Personal Maritime.** Stay connected on the water without the 30-day international limit. Click the button above to get started - ****Switch to Global Priority.** The most flexible option: coverage on land and in the open ocean, prioritized data on the network, and no 30-day travel limit You can manage or change plans anytime from your [account](https://starlink.com/api/notifications/v1/redirect/eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJkZWxpdmVyeUlkIjoiOTgzMjRFQjZEMzM0NTI0QTMzMkRBMzU3RUIzMjRFQTcyQzBEMDhDRjQwMTk1REQ0NURBRDhCNDc3RDJFRTk2QyIsInJlZGlyZWN0VXJsIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9zdGFybGluay5jb20vYWNjb3VudCJ9.32myeH7lNXAIIwmk2dv5jhat1MDD-bl5v%5Fto0lhtr6g?ref=seabits.com). Thank you for choosing Starlink. I believe the hundreds (possibly thousands) of boaters who contacted Starlink, worked with Support, and in some cases spoke with Starlink executives, finally convinced them there was a real case for a plan tailored to boaters traveling internationally for extended periods. It's a good example of a community banding together to push a for-profit corporation to keep providing what many see as an essential service, with few alternatives that aren't significantly pricier or missing key features. ## Personal Maritime Summarized - New Plan called Personal Maritime for people who are on the water and away from their home country for more than 30 days. - Personal Maritime is $185 USD (for my locale) which is $10 more than Roam Unlimited. - Ocean Mode went from $2/GB to $6/GB. - Personal Maritime is only available via a dedicated support ticket, and requires proof you're using it on a recreational vessel **~~40 feet or less~~ 60 feet or less** (registration, hull ID, etc.). - Not for fishing/commercial/large yachts. - Grouped Countries are still able to use Roam Unlimited (see below). ## 60 Foot Length Limit According to Starlink's [legal document around plans](https://starlink.com/legal/documents/DOC-1728-44881-79?fbclid=IwY2xjawT9lsNwZG9mBWV4dG4DYWVtAjEwAGJyaWQRMU1LYWZOam1XUlRZQW1NS1BzcnRjBmFwcF9pZBAyMjIwMzkxNzg4MjAwODkyAAEeDEZkOheMvkARPb4YRy6tzhQwJsxYzJ16qlpQE5nJOzAno6Laz5zATGrD9%5Fw%5Faem%5FA-JAcTPgZHoB8RSNT4PC8g&ref=seabits.com): The Personal Maritime plan is available exclusively for personal, small watercraft use. Use on larger craft or yachts (e.g., watercraft exceeding 60 ft. in length overall) is prohibited. This is where it gets muddy, as the US Coast Guard considers anything over 26 feet a yacht (!!), the International Yacht Brokers Association uses 40 feet, and the EU in places considers anything over 24 meters (approx 78 feet). I guess they had to start somewhere. ⛵ The original limit that Starlink started with was 40 feet and was changed on September 3rd (or so) and increased to 60 feet, which is more reasonable for recreational boats, especially ones crossing larger bodies of water. ## What About US/Canada/Europe Grouped Countries? In the July 2026 update to Roam Unlimited, Starlink said travel between countries within the same group (see below) wouldn't count against the 30-day international limit: - US and Canada - A bunch of European Countries (see the [other article for a detailed list](https://seabits.com/starlink-roam-plan-changes/)) I wondered if Personal Maritime changed that, so I contacted Starlink support: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/08/Screenshot-2026-08-27-at-2.44.03---PM.png) Starlink support chat Here's the details from their response for ease of reading: *Thank you for reaching out. Yes, that is still the case. For Roam, the United States and Canada (and their associated territories) are treated as one country/region. Travel between the US and Canada does not count as international travel and does not use the 30-day Roam Unlimited allowance.* *You are not required to switch to the Personal Maritime plan for travel between Canada and the US on land. Personal Maritime is intended for use on small personal vessels on the water.* So, for those folks in the US/Canada/Europe Grouped Countries, nothing changes. You can continue using Roam Unlimited without any 30 day timers between those groupings. ## Summary After a lot of community pressure, it appears Starlink has provided folks with a plan specifically for recreational boaters that travel for more than 30 days away from their home countries. For $10 more per month, they can continue relying on Starlink (of course, until something else changes 😄). The only limit is that this plan is not for boats over 60 feet in length. Ocean Mode has tripled in price from $2/GB to $6/GB which is expensive, but Starlink is definitely not a non-profit. Boaters in the US/Canada/Europe don't need to switch if they are in the grouped countries and travel to another one in the list. I'm sure there will be updates to this news, so keep an eye on this article for anything new in the next few days. ### Starlink Roam Plans Change URL: https://seabits.com/starlink-roam-plan-changes/ Last updated: 2026-08-25T17:02:18.000Z --- Starlink announced two major changes today including the retirement of the Global Roam plan, and a big change to their terms of service for Roam Plans that will affect boaters worldwide. ## Global Roam is Gone Global Roam for new customers is no longer available as of July 15th, 2026\. Existing customers on Global Roam will need to pick a new plan before August 17th, 2026 or service will stop. Global Roam was a $400/month unadvertised plan (not on the public pricing page, only offered as an upsell once you already had another plan active) that gave unlimited land-based data internationally, anywhere Starlink could legally operate. It was the answer to unlimited long-term international use. Global Priority is the only plan left that offers no time restriction on international use. I don't know as many boaters that used this plan, but it was definitely a nice plan to have if you were moving between countries frequently and needed a plan to cover that. ## Roam Terms of Service Change The terms of service were changed today per the below email from Starlink to existing Roam customers. This email is specific to my account which is US-based, but others around the world have gotten similar emails with local details relevant to their location. For existing Roam customers, these changes go into effect August 17, 2026\. For new customers, these changes go into effect today. ![Starlink](https://starlink.com/assets/mx/light-header-logo.png) ### *Update to Roam Terms of Service* *Beginning August 17, the international travel policy is changing. You can review the full Terms of Service* [*here*](https://starlink.com/legal?ref=seabits.com)*.* - **Roam Unlimited:* Includes 30 days of service outside your registered home country at a time. US and Canada are treated as one country, so travel between them does not count as international. After 30 days internationally, you can upgrade to a Priority plan, localize your account to a new country, or return to your home country to reset the window.* - **All other Roam plans:* Use anywhere within your registered home country. US and Canada are treated as one country. International use requires an upgrade to Roam Unlimited, which you can do anytime from your account. Alternatively, you can localize your account to a new country.* *If you plan to travel internationally, you’ll need to complete* [*Travel Registration*](https://starlink.com/account/settings?ref=seabits.com#registration-requirements)*.* 📖 I recommend reading [this Starlink help article](https://starlink.com/support/article/0dd1c2c0-7bae-8c8f-43d4-9a64eb66662f?ref=seabits.com) covering all of the changes to the Roam plans. There are details on countries, timing, and many other things. So, at the high level, we have the following: - Roam Unlimited - can only use it outside your home country for 30 days - Other Roam Plans - can only be used in your home country However, there are some additional nuances and details, so read on.... ## Grouped Countries The one good piece of news in this change is that there are two groupings of countries that are considered a "home country" and movement between them is not considered "traveling internationally" according to their detailed article above: ### US & Canada Countries and Territories The following are grouped as one region for Roam travel: - United States - Canada - Puerto Rico - US Virgin Islands - Guam - American Samoa - Northern Mariana Islands ### European Countries The following countries are grouped as one region for Roam travel: - Åland Islands - Austria - Belgium - Bulgaria - Croatia - Czechia - Denmark - Estonia - Finland - France - Germany - Gibraltar - Greece - Guernsey - Hungary - Iceland - Isle of Man - Ireland - Italy - Jersey - Latvia - Liechtenstein - Lithuania - Luxembourg - Malta - Netherlands - Norway - Portugal - Romania - Slovakia - Slovenia - Spain - Sweden - Switzerland - Svalbard & Jan Mayen - United Kingdom It's odd that Poland isn't in the list above for Europe — it's a live Starlink market and an EU country, so there's no obvious reason for the exclusion. Cyprus, Moldova, and Monaco are missing for the same unclear reason. The Balkan gap (Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo, Montenegro, North Macedonia, Serbia) makes more sense, since most of those countries don't have live Starlink service yet. As a result, I don't believe that you'll need to do much when moving between these countries. It is pretty disappointing to see that Mexico isn't included with the US and Canada, as many cruisers from those three countries tend to cruise between the three. If you are moving between countries not in the list above, or from one of the groupings above to a different country, then you are subject to the below changes in Roam Plans. ## Roam Unlimited Plan Changes As a result of this change, you'll have 30 days of service while outside your registered home country / grouping of countries. Once you hit that 30 day mark, you have three choices: 1. Upgrade to a Priority Plan ($$) 2. Change your plan to the country you're in (hard to do) 3. Return to your home country #3 is rather hard to do for most folks who are traveling on a boat. I suppose you could go 15 days away from your home country, maximum, and then turn around and go back within the last 15 days, then reset the timer, but it does not seem reasonable for folks who are on longer journeys or passages. #1 - upgrade to a Priority Plan - this will be expensive depending on how much usage you require, and which flavor you choose between a Local or Global Priority Plan. Global Priority costs $250/50GB and $650/500GB per month to start with plans ranging up to 2TB, while Local Priority starts at $55/50GB and has similar tiers. Priority plans use bucketed data, not unlimited, so once you burn the 50GB/500GB block you're throttled to \~1Mbps/0.5Mbps rather than staying at full speed, which is a real behavior change from Roam's unlimited data. Global Priority also typically requires the higher end hardware (Performance / Flat High Performance) although there have been exceptions. If you want to learn more about Priority Plans, [Starlink has details here](https://starlink.com/support/article/1124df77-fdec-91e7-bed9-ba489cffda25?ref=seabits.com). One note about Local Priority - Starlink's own documentation says Local Priority is inland-only, not for coastal or ocean use. Worth noting that Roam's written coastal limits (5 days consecutive, 60 days a year) haven't matched my own experience using it on the water year-round with zero enforcement so far. That said, I wouldn't assume the Local Priority water restriction gets the same treatment. It's a different plan, it's newer, and Starlink could geofence or enforce it differently at any time. #2 - changing your plan address to the country you're in - won't likely work well for boaters either. According to their [official document here,](https://starlink.com/support/article/d1e19d25-a05b-3d15-e831-2aea19b53e92?ref=seabits.com) it requires you cancel your account in your home country, transfer the dish to a new account/new email and provide the address where you're moving to. In addition, you can't make changes unless the dish has been activated for 90 days, and you can't make another change for an additional 90 days. If you happen to be passing through a country for 30-60 days, this could prevent you from having service during a part of that time. There was a rumor a year ago that Starlink was going to make this process easier, but it has not surfaced yet. ## All Other Roam Plans These can no longer be used anywhere but your home country / grouping. If you want to travel to another country, you have to upgrade to Roam Unlimited (keeping in mind you still have the 30 day limit) or switch your account to a local address in the country you're in. For those folks who switched or started with one of the lower data plans (100GB / 300GB) and intend on traveling internationally, these plans are no longer really an option. ## Travel Registration I covered the change with Travel Registration in my previous article on all of the changes Starlink made since May. You can find more details about it below. [Starlink has changed a lot since MayStarlink pricing changes, a passport requirement for border crossings, and the Standard dish disappearing from new orders, plus more since May.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/icon/SeaBits-icon-dce60d10-9918-4fc5-94d4-6c1d923cb74a.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/thumbnail/Starlink-Dish-44ad499f-3b39-447e-8c71-b5a0d23d5627.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/starlink-has-changed-a-lot-since-may/) ## Who Does This Affect The Most? This affects international cruisers the most, and specifically those who are not traveling between the "home country" groupings above. An example would be the Caribbean where none of the countries are listed in those groupings, and folks are often in those areas for longer than 30 days at a time, and most likely have their plan registered in Canada or the US. There are quite a few of the smaller countries in that region that still don't have active Starlink service (some say "coming 2026") so that may be a reason they can't group them yet. Another example would be Mexico - many folks from Canada and the US cruise there, and it is not in the grouped US+Canada country. ## Why Are They Doing This? I don't know for sure, but I suspect it's two main reasons. First, Starlink has strugged to comply with various legal requirements that different countries have when it comes to internet access. Almost every single country in the world has detailed laws and requirements for how internet access is provided. Many have councils or governing bodies that create and maintain rules, access, pricing, and control structures around how that sort of service can be provided. Some of these rules are to ensure the safety of their citizens, others are for government control, and some are just because we live in a capitalist world and someone needs to make money off of the whole thing. Complying with all of that is pretty messy and time consuming, so I can understand that Starlink is probably trying to make that easier for themselves. And that leads me to the second reason - Starlink is a for-profit company. Their parent company SpaceX just had a massive IPO, and they aren't doing this for the good of the world. A big part of this is likely to drive more revenue and to capture that from people who are moving between countries and not paying whatever fees Starlink has to pay to that locale. Or just cuz they want more of our money 😃 ## What Can You Do To Help? If you have a Roam plan and are affected, open a ticket with Starlink and ask them to re-consider this policy. As a boater, this puts your ability to stay connected when on the water and get safety and weather information at risk. There's already a precedent for this working. Back in 2024, Starlink announced they were eliminating opt-in Priority Data for Roam users, the same data boaters relied on for coverage offshore. Days before the change was set to go live, enough people pushed back that Starlink delayed it. It wasn't a permanent reversal, but it proved they'll listen when boaters make noise. If you do open a ticket, post a note in the comments below. If you get any interesting responses from Starlink, feel free to share those as well. Hopefully we can at least change Starlink's mind about enforcing this when using it from a boat! ### Starlink has changed a lot since May URL: https://seabits.com/starlink-has-changed-a-lot-since-may/ Last updated: 2026-08-25T05:46:18.000Z --- Starlink's made some real changes since mid-May. Prices went up on most plans, a new travel registration requirement now applies if you cross a border, and the Standard dish is gone from new Roam orders. On the bright side, a new 300GB plan fills a gap that could be useful to some. ## A new 300GB Roam plan at $80/month Starlink added a new Roam 300GB plan priced at $80/month. It is a welcome addition that fills a real gap between the 100GB plan at $55/month and Roam Unlimited at $175/month. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/07/Screenshot-2026-07-01-at-4.50.49---PM.png) Roam pricing The plan carries the same terms as the 100GB option: works while in motion up to 100 mph, supports international border crossings for up to 60 days, and throttles to low speeds after hitting the cap rather than cutting you off entirely. Only Roam Unlimited can have Ocean Mode added at $2/GB for coverage beyond 12 nautical miles offshore. I run through 800 to 900GB a month aboard Aruna, so Roam Unlimited is still where I live. But if you are a lighter user, the 300GB plan is likely the sweet spot you have been waiting for. ## Price increases across the board Starlink sent out email notices a few weeks ago of price increases on nearly every consumer plan. New customers see the new pricing immediately; existing customers will see it on their first billing cycle on or after June 18, 2026. Roam 100GB goes from $50 to $55/month. Roam Unlimited goes from $165 to $175/month. On the Residential side: 100 Mbps goes from $50 to $55, 200 Mbps from $80 to $85, and Residential MAX from $120 to $130/month. Most cruisers are not on Residential, but liveaboards at permanent slips may be, and it's worth knowing that new Residential customers no longer buy their hardware outright. Starlink now rents the dish for $10 a month instead. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/07/Screenshot-2026-07-01-at-5.04.09---PM.png) Residential pricing The sharpest change is Standby Mode, which doubles from $5 to $10/month. Standby keeps your service line alive at 500 Kbps, which is useful for firmware updates, remote monitoring, and easy reactivation. At $5 it was a pretty easy call to keep. At $10 it is worth a second look. Canceling service entirely is still free and there is no reactivation fee currently, but if you cancel and come back later you are on whatever the current pricing is. Starlink's own terms hint at possible future reactivation fees, so seasonal users may still prefer Standby even at $10\. ## The passport requirement This is the one worth paying attention to if you cross into another country with Starlink aboard. Starlink has been rolling out a Travel Registration requirement since roughly February 2026\. Use Starlink outside your home country and you're required to register your full legal name, date of birth, passport number, a photo of your passport, and a live selfie to verify your identity. Starlink confirmed in a support ticket that traveling from the US into Canada is international use and requires travel registration, so this applies even to a short hop across the border. The rollout is phased and enforcement has been inconsistent, so plenty of people have crossed borders without being prompted. If you're planning more than 60 days outside your home country, or you'd rather not deal with this while sitting on a hook somewhere remote, register before you leave. The process takes about 10 minutes. 1. Go to My Account 2. Go to Settings 3. Scroll down to Registration Requirements 4. Click Add Travel Plans and select Global 5. Fill out the form and submit ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/07/Add-Travel-Plans.png) Where to find "Add Travel Plans" It should be a one-time thing once it's done. The deadline after being prompted is 25 days, but at least one boater had his service suspended before the deadline even started. ## Standard dish no longer offered on new Roam orders Starlink pulled the Standard Dish from the Roam ordering flow. I confirmed this on my own account adding a new Roam line, and again as a brand new user without an account. Same result both times. Roam defaults to the Mini at $199\. Clicking "more choices" surfaces the Performance dish at $1,999\. Standard, previously $349 with Roam, is gone from both paths. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/07/Screenshot-2026-07-01-at-4.31.59---PM-2.png) Field of view on the Mini is narrower than Standard, and snow melt capacity is lower, which can also affect how well it sheds rain and spray underway. That said, mounts are available for just about any install, and the Mini is genuinely popular on boats. It's disappointing to see Standard pulled from the ordering flow though, since it's been the most popular dish for boats since launch. Third-party retailers still carry the Standard Dish, so it's still possible to buy one new, just not through Starlink's own checkout. Existing Standard dishes on Roam are unaffected. This only changes what's available to purchase going forward. ## One more thing to watch Recently, Starlink's website briefly showed a comparison chart suggesting international roaming would be removed from the 100GB and 300GB plans entirely, with Unlimited being reduced to just 14 days. The page was pulled down quickly and the current terms still show 60-day international access across all Roam plans. Whether it was a publishing error or something being tested, nobody knows, but I hope it does not come true. ## Wrap Up Four things changed with Starlink since May: A new 300GB Roam plan filled a gap in pricing, costs went up across almost every plan, including Standby Mode doubling to $10 a month, travel registration is being rolled out for international border crossings, and the Standard dish is unavailable with new Roam orders. The [RV Mobile Internet Resource Center](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/tag/starlink/?ref=seabits.com) has deeper coverage on these stories if you want to dig into the details. Hopefully this info will help you if you're making changes, traveling across a border, or considering a new dish or plan. Let me know in the comments if you've noticed any other changes lately! ### The FCC Router Ban and What It Means for Your Boat URL: https://seabits.com/the-fcc-router-ban-and-what-it-means-for-your-boat/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:42:49.000Z --- In late March, the FCC quietly dropped an order that affects nearly every consumer Wi-Fi router brand on the market. If you're a boater running consumer networking gear aboard, or shopping for an upgrade, it's worth understanding what changed and what it actually means for you. ## What Is The Ban? On March 23, the [FCC updated its national security "Covered List"](https://www.fcc.gov/document/fcc-updates-covered-list-include-foreign-made-consumer-routers?ref=seabits.com) to include all consumer-grade Wi-Fi routers produced outside the United States. This means that no new foreign-made router model can receive FCC authorization, which means it cannot legally be imported or sold in the US going forward. The reality is that virtually every major router brand manufactures overseas. The FCC's definition of "produced" is broad, covering not just where a router is assembled, but where it's designed and developed. There are essentially no consumer routers currently made in the United States. So that is going to cause some issues.... The Mobile Internet Resource Center has a great deep dive on the details, including a video walkthrough: [The FCC Bans New Consumer Wi-Fi Router Models Made Outside USAWith a surprise new order published late yesterday, the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) just dropped a bomb on Wi-Fi router manufacturers. The gist of a new order is that it effectively bans the sale of![](https://static.ghost.org/v5.0.0/images/link-icon.svg)Mobile Internet Resource CenterAndrew McNabb![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/thumbnail/news-story-fcc-bans-new-consumer-wifi-routers.png)](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/the-fcc-bans-new-wi-fi-router-models-made-outside-usa/?ref=seabits.com) ## What Consumer Grade Means The FCC defines consumer-grade as routers "primarily intended for residential use and can be installed by the customer." Enterprise-focused gear sits in a different category and is likely outside the ban's scope, though the line is genuinely ambiguous and companies largely self-certify where they fall. For boaters, this distinction matters a lot. Brands like Peplink, Cradlepoint, and Teltonika sit firmly in the enterprise category. If you're running a GL.iNet router though, that's a different story. GL.iNet is Chinese-headquartered and their gear is squarely in the consumer/prosumer space, which almost certainly puts them in the crosshairs. Same with brands like TP-Link, ASUS, etc. The [Verge has a good article](https://www.theverge.com/tech/899906/fcc-router-ban-march-2026-explainer?ref=seabits.com) on the ban as well if you want to dig into the details. ## What To Do Now? Nothing, if your current gear is working. The FCC is explicit: existing routers are completely unaffected, no action required. Firmware and security updates are allowed to continue through at least March 1, 2027\. Existing authorized models currently on shelves can still be purchased. There's also a "conditional approval" exemption process for manufacturers, and it's already happening. As of yesterday, [Netgear became the first brand to receive approval](https://www.pcmag.com/news/netgear-scores-the-first-exemption-from-the-fccs-foreign-made-router-ban?ref=seabits.com), valid through October 1, 2027, after the Defense Department reviewed their application and found their products don't pose national security risks. Adtran, an enterprise networking company, also received approval today. The Mobile Internet Resource Center published an article on that approval too that you can dive into below: [Netgear Becomes First Router Brand To Receive Conditional Approval From The FCC Router Ban - Mobile Hotspots IncludedBack on March 23, 2026, the FCC added foreign-produced consumer-grade routers to the “Covered List”, effectively blocking new router models from receiving FCC authorization. Without FCC authorization, routers cannot legally be imported, marketed, and sold![](https://static.ghost.org/v5.0.0/images/link-icon.svg)Mobile Internet Resource CenterAndrew McNabb![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/thumbnail/news-brief-header-netgear-receives-conditional-fcc-approval-router-ban.png)](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/netgear-becomes-first-router-brand-to-receive-conditional-approval-from-the-fcc-router-ban-mobile-hotspots-included/?ref=seabits.com) ## The Irony The stated rationale is national security, but critics have pointed out a significant problem with the logic. By blocking new models, the policy keeps older, less-patched routers in service longer. And the major documented hacks that the FCC cites as justification — Volt Typhoon, Salt Typhoon — implicated US brands like Netgear and Cisco, not just Chinese-made equipment. The FCC presents no evidence that foreign-made routers are inherently less secure. What the conditional approval process does require is a plan to shift manufacturing to the US. Make of that what you will. ## What about Peplink? As avid readers are aware, I recommend and use Peplink equipment on boats because of its feature set and robustness, among other things. Peplink sits in the enterprise category and is almost certainly outside the scope of this ban. If anything, this is a useful reminder of why choosing enterprise-grade gear for a serious marine install makes sense beyond just the feature set. SpeedFusion bonding, deep cellular expertise, and multi-WAN failover are all critical features I rely on, and aren't available in consumer gear. If you've been on the fence about making the jump from a consumer router to a Peplink setup, this is a reasonable nudge to consider an upgrade. [Using Starlink with PeplinkHaving a Peplink router with a cellular modem paired with Starlink is essential for reliable connectivity aboard the boat.![](https://static.ghost.org/v5.0.0/images/link-icon.svg)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/All-the-connections-1.png)](https://seabits.com/using-starlink-with-peplink/) ## What about Starlink? Based on a comment below, I realized I hadn't answered an important question - is Starlink affected? For the consumer versions of their products, which includes most of the ones we use on boats, I would assume the same ban applies since their routers are not made in the US. Their business and enterprise products are likely exempt. I'm sure they will be applying for approval for their consumer products as well. ## Next Steps? If you're running consumer gear that's working, you don't have to do anything now. Your router is fine and will keep getting updates through at least early 2027. If you're looking for an upgrade, buy currently-authorized stock sooner rather than later. Inventory of approved models will narrow over time as new models can't come to market. I would also look at enterprise versions of products, like Peplink, instead of consumer-grade just to get out of that market and what might become of it as a result of this mess. This situation will keep evolving through 2026\. The [Mobile Internet Resource Center team](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/?ref=seabits.com) will stay on top of it better than anyone for the RV and boating audience, so worth bookmarking them for updates. What model router do you have or use? Post your details in the comments! ### Why I'm upgrading Aruna's electrical system URL: https://seabits.com/why-im-upgrading-arunas-electrical-system/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:43:50.000Z I've been cruising Aruna for the last two years, and for most of that time her electrical system has been a compromise. Not dangerous, not broken, just not what it should be for a boat I plan to spend years on. This is the story of how I got here, and where I'm going. ## The Old System's Problems ### Version 1.0 becomes version 1.5 Version 1.5 of Aruna's electrical system happened very soon after I bought her. She came with an amalgamation of crap that we'll call version 1.0 that was only partially functional, and quite dangerous. There were three different inverters - two for normal house functions, and one for the broken watermaker. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/E4EA51F6-1C90-441F-84D5-A16D5605C374_1_105_c.jpeg) Some of the "professionally installed" water maker wiring The watermaker inverter was some of the worst electrical work I've seen in years, and that's saying a lot. Directly wired into part of the house bank (not all) without any fusing or shutoff, a really crappy 3000W inverter was connected directly to the generator AC out as well without any breakers or switches. There was also a scary box hidden in a closet near the control panel that you had to use to select whether you were on generator or battery power, and no lockout. If you switched it at the wrong time, you'd create a short circuit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_5208.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_5205.jpeg) Water maker inverter - missing ground, shrink wrap and fuses (not pictured) The idea for this inverter setup was to be able to run the watermaker while at anchor without the generator on, for some small portion of time. A 1/2 horsepower AC motor takes quite a bit of power, especially on startup, so I'm not sure this was a realistic goal. None of this worked right, and all of it was far from installed safely. I ripped it out in the first week of owning Aruna. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_5635.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_5655.jpeg) Original inverters on Aruna - Outback and Xantrex The two inverters for house loads were a Xantrex 3000W inverter, and an Outback 2000W inverter. The Outback had been installed originally when the boat was built, and was not in great condition. The Xantrex was added later on, and someone added a switch box to choose between the two that was a nightmare of poorly connected AC wiring, loose crimps, and more. The Xantrex also shut down randomly, threw many different errors, and had a bad fan noise. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_5641.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_5639.jpeg) This was the custom box built to switch between inverters. This inverter switch box also had no lockouts, so you could turn both inverters on at the same time (look at the text on the red placard) - at least they let you know this would "damage one or both inverters". Generally just a bad design. Within a few weeks, I replaced all of this with a single Victron MultiPlus 12 volt DC, 3000W inverter along with a Victron Cerbo, display screen, and a couple of 50 amp chargers to supplement charging while on generator. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_5608.jpeg) Initial MultiPlus install before wiring upgrade The initial MultiPlus install re-used the existing cabling for the old inverters, which was older welding cable, and not enough copper to meet the required cable size. You can see that in the picture above - that configuration only existed for a few weeks until I could pull new cable for the DC side of things - 2x 2/0 AWG cables for both positive and negative (4x total) and a properly sized case ground. The solar situation on Aruna was also not great. She came with 8x 100 watt panels, four of which swung out from the sides of the boat and could be oriented flat for better charging. Half of the panels didn't work, and those that did had very poor performance. I found bare wires in multiple places with home made connectors and electrical tape that had been exposed to the elements. Some of these wires were touching metal parts of the boat (remember, Aruna is steel) so there was current flowing around random places. Fun. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/0AA09777-8F2B-4529-A04C-6E9BACE8D6C6_1_105_c.jpeg) One of the two solar controllers - this one had a breaker for the battery but not the solar side I replaced sections of wiring, tested each panel, and added two Victron MPPT controllers to replace the aging crap that had been used before. Neither one of the controllers had fuses or breakers in key spots, or proper wiring. Just like the water maker, this had been installed by the previous owner. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_0044.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_0045.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_1229.jpeg) These changes helped a little bit, but the panels were old, mistreated, and never provided more than about 400 watts on their best day. Most days, I would see 100-200 watts, which was pretty poor from 800 watts of panels, especially given the real-estate they took up. ### Capacity and Charging Two areas that Aruna's system suffered in were overall capacity and charging speed. She came with 12x [Lifeline 6v GPL-6CT AGM batteries](https://lifelinebatteries.com/products/marine-batteries/gpl-6ct/?ref=seabits.com) that were from 2020\. I tested each one thoroughly in isolation, and they all passed with flying colors. This gave me 1800 amp hours of total capacity, with about 900 amp hours of usable capacity. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/C81C5C1A-00B1-4350-8B5E-9277898FF5EE_1_105_c.jpeg) Part of Aruna's AGM battery bank Aruna also had a lot of unoptimized equipment and lighting, just like any other boat that I've not gotten my hands on. There was a crazy stereo system that I found drawing almost 350 watts continuously even if it wasn't being used, old electronics with high usage at anchor, incandescent navigation and anchor lights, plus a lot more. I spent time updating those, but she still used 30+ DC amps continuously while at anchor, not to mention much higher usage when running the microwave, coffee machine, and other appliances. An 900 amp hour battery bank is only going to last a little over a day without charging. maybe less. The anemic solar panels really didn't help much, so the generator had to cover charging, often from 55-60% state of charge every day, which meant for long charge cycles spanning 3 to 4 hours. The Victron MultiPlus 3000W can only charge at 120 amps, and that assumes it is not in a hot environment, or doing other functions. The two Victron 50 amp chargers had all sorts of software bugs that prevented them from running continuously through the charge cycle, and Victron basically abandoned fixing any of them, which was irritating. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/IMG_7447.jpeg) One of the two 50 amp chargers that were on phase 2 for charging When everything was happy, I could see about 220 amps of DC charging, minus the normal house usage of about 30 amps, which put things at about 190 amps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/7AF5942E-3449-4043-8F89-6D9159CE22F9_1_105_c.jpeg) Version 1.5 system charging the battery bank However, AGM batteries cannot be charged at a continuous rate through the charging cycle, and this meant that the generator was on for 3+ hours every day, sometimes longer. During this time, I would also be making water with my 50 gallon/day water maker, heating hot water in the 1500W hot water tank, running the dishwasher, washer/dryer, etc. but even then, the generator phases were unbalanced, and the runtime for charging the batteries always exceeded what I could keep on the generator continuously in other loads. The other challenge is that technically, it is best if you charge the batteries up to a particular level in one sitting, not in fits and starts depending on you needing to leave the boat, or other interruptions. This always sucks with AGM and flooded batteries. Then you add into the fact that you're putting a lot more hours on your generator, which drives up maintenance costs. And because it's not balanced well, and not run at a higher load for at least an hour every day, you're adding even more wear and tear to things that will have to be replaced or dealt with because of the run profile. There was also really nice 9-series Balmar 210 amp alternator that was controlled by a Balmar regulator. Unfortunately, it was programmed incorrectly, which I fixed early on, but it was still hobbled by the fact that the AGM batteries would sit in absorption at very low charging rates for at least an hour, if not longer. This wasn't the end of the world for the alternator, as I would be underway potentially, and the extra hour was just less work for it at that time. None of this is a unique situation - I've helped hundreds of people with this exact set of problems, so I knew what needed to come next. Have electrical gremlins? Need a LiFePO4 design? Book a free 30-minute call with me to get expert advice tailored to your boat! [Book A Free Call ](https://seabits.com/contact-consulting/) ### Generator Phase Imbalance Since my generator has two legs or phases (keeping it simple for the audience folks, don't go crazy in the comments) and phase 1 is generally heavily used, being able to balance things more so that both phases are near equal, or at least phase 2 is being used more during charging would be highly desirable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/7D2B743B-3EB4-4527-A251-F0310D38B3FF_1_105_c.jpeg) A rather dusty Maretron display showing out of balance generator phases while charging Phase 1 has the inverter/charger on it, washer/dryer, microwave, and by nature of the inverter, all of the AC outlets throughout the boat. That includes things like the dishwasher, TV, fridge, etc. Phase 2 has two 50 amp DC chargers (1200w) and that's about it. The two 16,000 BTU air conditioners and the watermaker use both phase 1 and phase 2, so while charging, they don't really help the balancing situation. ### Balance and Fuel Capacity One thing that had plagued me for a while on Aruna was balancing out the boat when fueling. She has four diesel tanks, two 150 gallon forward tanks on port and starboard, and two 400 gallon aft tanks, also on port and starboard. 8x of the AGM batteries were on the port side under the workbench, right up against the port forward diesel tank. The other four batteries were across the engine room in their own box. This also was a side quest I wanted to fix - having the battery bank split across the room, and unevenly at that, was not a great design. The initial 8 batteries had great cabling, all short and equal lengths. The other 4 batteries had an undersized cable with no fuse protection running under the engine room floor and over to the other side of the room. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/2AAB7853-A56C-4935-B91B-78B6EE995351_1_105_c.jpeg) 4x AGM batteries on the other side of the room When fueling, I had a difficult time ever filling up the port side tanks because the boat would list up to 2 degrees or more if I filled them completely. Now, 2 degrees doesn't sound like much, but to me it was not great. I get seasick very easily, and stumbling around on a tilted floor, having doors hit you in the head, and generally being unstable is not a great way to prevent that. Plus, in decent weather with wind and waves on the beam, a 2-3 degree list gets a lot bigger even with stabilizers. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/04/D45DE8F2-9F2E-44BC-A01F-07BF41B6B607_1_201_a-1.jpeg) As a result, I did not fill up the port side tanks completely, leaving anywhere from 50 to 100 gallons of capacity unused. I wanted to remove as much weight as possible from the port side of the boat so I could take advantage of that tankage for range. ## New System Goals So lets talk about the goals I have for this new system: ### Reduce Generator Runtime The primary way of achieving this will be moving to LiFePO4 batteries which will allow for them to be charged at higher rates without a long absorption phase with low current. This will reduce, at least, that final hour+ of generator run-time that is present with the AGM batteries. This also requires a different set of charging devices, most likely more of them, all coordinated and managed by a central system to ensure proper charging, and balance things when multiple systems are active. I also want a significant increase in overall charging capacity, new wiring, fuses, and surrounding items to help ensure I can run the generator in the most optimized manner and have proper equipment to do so. ### Balance Generator Phase Usage If we're going to get the generator working hard for the majority of the charge cycle, it would also be good to balance out the phases a bit to help distribute that and make it happier. The easiest way to do this is a combination of moving things between phases and adding charging capacity on the less used phase. I may end up just doing the latter - adding a significant amount of charging capacity to the second phase of the generator. My reasoning behind this is to maintain the ability to use a single 30 amp, 120v AC shore power connection and still have the ability to have hot water, run the washer/dryer, etc. Moving some of those appliances to phase 2 might limit that, but we will see. ### Increase Usable Battery Capacity Anyone replacing their battery system is usually considering this, and I am no different. I'd like to see at least an additional 50% of usable capacity so that I could go a day and a half, or stretch to two days, without any active charging. ### Correct Balance & Fuel Issue I'd like to be able to use all tankage on the port side and not have any balance issues. Even 50 to 100 gallons of unused fuel capacity is a meaningful range hit, especially when you're planning longer passages up the BC coast where fuel stops aren't always convenient or cheap. Getting that capacity back was a real operational goal, not just an aesthetic one. ### Proper Solar Panel System Given the sheer amount of space already allocated for the solar panels, I'd like to have a system that can cover more than my daily loads for at least 4-6 months out of the year. Ideally, in the summer, I'd like for it to contribute meaningfully to charging during the day. I'd also like for the MPPT controllers to not be 50' away from the battery bank, to have proper fusing and wiring, and for the wires at the solar panels to not be something out of a bad horror movie. I'd also like to beef up and repair the swinging mounts. ### Correctly Integrate Alternator The alternator should be able to charge the batteries while underway and coordinate with the rest of the system. It should also be setup to charge similarly to the rest of the system so that it can take advantage of the charge profile that LiFePO4 offers. ## What's Next? Now that I've outlined the mess that was v1.0, and how v1.5 improved on it, I think I have a good handle on what I'd like to see in version 2.0\. In the next article, we'll go through what voltage I selected, the equipment I chose and why, and a bit behind the design. ## ### Starlink Performance Gen3 Update URL: https://seabits.com/starlink-performance-gen3-update/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:45:11.000Z --- I've been using the Starlink Performance Generation 3 for 9 months, and have some feedback on how it's worked aboard [Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/). Overall, it has been a great upgrade with faster speeds and more marine quality components. Let's dig into the details. Video overview - article has additional details ## DC Power Supply One of the big reasons I was interested in the Starlink Performance Gen3 system is the AC and DC capable power supply known as the Advanced Power Supply. Since I installed the unit, I've used the DC power supply exclusively, and love that option. Not only is it more efficient than the AC power conversion, it also means that if my inverter or AC power goes down, I still have internet connectivity to do research 😃 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/power-draw.jpeg) The power draw with the DC power supply has been good, well within what I would expect for a big dish like this. I did some testing back in June 2025 and power usage has gotten a little bit better since then. I assume that is as a result of firmware updates and optimization that Starlink has been able to figure out with things running in customer environments. [Starlink Performance Kit Power TestingReal-world testing of the Starlink Performance Kit on both DC and AC power, cutting and extending the DC power cable, and looking into the specs and limits of the DC power supply![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/icon/SeaBits-icon-13.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/thumbnail/Screenshot-2025-06-26-at-8.04.53---PM.png)](https://seabits.com/starlink-performance-kit-power-testing/) There was a bit of a learning curve with this power supply for Starlink. A few months ago, those of us with the unit got an email indicating that there was a design flaw with the AC and DC power supply cabling waterproofing. New cables were shipped, but took a while to arrive. I have the new ones, and can't see a huge difference vs. the old ones. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/image.png) New (left) versus old (right) DC power connectors The other benefit of this power supply is being able to use it with the Standard Generation 3 dish. This allows for some redundancy if your dish fails and you have both a Standard and Performance, like I do. You could also order the power supply and use it with the Standard Generation 3 instead of the AC-only power supply. 💡 As of March 2026, it appears that the Advanced Power Supply is not available for order as a standalone purchase. The theory is that the cable waterproofing issue has led to it being unavailable either for stock or redesign issues. One thing that is disappointing about the advanced power supply is the lack of statistics and information. In the original release, Starlink indicated there would be "a new microcontroller that provides additional telemetry data, such as power inputs/outputs, Ethernet measurements, network voltage drops, and water detection at the terminals" but none of those appear to be exposed to end users in any way. I was hoping there would be opportunities to see the DC power voltage, statistics, and even AC->DC conversion information, but we're still waiting. ## Faster Speeds I have noticed consistently higher speeds out of the Performance Generation 3 versus all other versions of the Starlink dishes I have aboard which include the original round generation 1, generation 2 rectangular, and Flat High Performance. I'm sure this has to do with the newer generation antenna structure, and the fact that eventually this unit will allow for even faster speeds, if you want to pay for them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/speedtest-gen3-perf.jpeg) 📡 If you missed my unboxing and power testing articles on this dish, you can find them below! [Starlink Performance Kit UnboxingThe Starlink Performance Kit is a high performance, ultra waterproof version of their product with helpful features designed with boats in mind.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/icon/SeaBits-icon-12.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/thumbnail/IMG_1829-1-2.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/starlink-performance-kit-unboxing/) [Starlink Performance Kit Power TestingReal-world testing of the Starlink Performance Kit on both DC and AC power, cutting and extending the DC power cable, and looking into the specs and limits of the DC power supply![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/icon/SeaBits-icon-15.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/thumbnail/Screenshot-2025-06-26-at-8.04.53---PM-1.png)](https://seabits.com/starlink-performance-kit-power-testing/) ## Marine Grade Connections Other than the power supply, which apparently had waterproofing issues, I really prefer this setup for a marine installation. I've done a few installs for other boats besides my own, and the twist lock waterproof end to the cable is an excellent version (finally) of the connection to the dish. The previous push-in plastic connectors, and the abysmal Flat High Performance thing were always the weakest points of any Starlink install on a boat. Coating them in various substances to reduce corrosion and water ingress seemed to work for most folks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/02/image-1.png) Starlink Performance Gen 3 connection cable The hefty stainless end with the positive twist lock makes it super easy to connect. The only **huge** downside is the size of the connector, which requires a pretty big hole. There was a note in the original guides that a field installable connector would be available "later" but I have yet to see it on Starlink's website or hear about it becoming available. If you've seen it, please leave a note in the comments. This is probably the single worst part of the entire setup - the hole required for that beautiful connector is quite large. If you use the other end, it is a bit smaller, but you will need to protect either one during the cable pulling process. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/02/AC4F4392-DF0C-4BEA-A63D-43F9582C944D_1_105_c.jpeg) Plugging in the satisfying connector ## Wedge Mount ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/02/image.png) Starlink Performance Wedge Mount The wedge mount is probably my least favorite part of the entire Starlink Performance Gen 3 setup. It weighs over 4 pounds and is a huge chunk of aluminum to have aloft. It has cheap plastic doors to access the bolts on either side, and is quite a bit more fiddly than I would have liked. Having done a few installs with these, they are a lot of weight overall to lift and maneuver up into a mounting position. The install process requires the dish and the mount be connected together, and then mounted as one piece by accessing the bolt holes through the side doors. The whole kit weighs over 16 pounds, which is a lot to be messing around with, and the aluminum mount, while anodized, can do damage to gelcoat while you're moving it around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/IMG_3511.jpeg) For $80, it's hard to justify trying another mount if this one works for you. Many of the other solutions out there are more expensive, especially the marine ones. However, they have some benefits and are lighter and easier to work with in many cases. ## Router & Redundancy I've paired the Performance Gen3 with a Peplink BR2 Pro 5G router which has 2x cellular connections and marina [WiFi as WAN](https://seabits.com/wifi-as-wan/) backups. This is the same approach I've used for years and I highly recommend it for any outage or speed issues with Starlink. The good news with the Performance Kit is that no ethernet adapter is needed; the Advanced Power Supply connects directly to the Peplink WAN port via standard ethernet, and can even provide PoE power to your router, which makes for a cleaner install than previous generations. If you want to dig into the Peplink + Starlink setup in detail, I have a full guide, though it's due for an update, which I'm working on. [Using Starlink with PeplinkHaving a Peplink router with a cellular modem paired with Starlink is essential for reliable connectivity aboard the boat.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/icon/SeaBits-icon-14.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/thumbnail/All-the-connections-1-1.png)](https://seabits.com/using-starlink-with-peplink/) ## Wrap Up Overall, I'm very pleased with the Starlink Performance Generation 3 dish, and it's my primary source of internet wherever I go. It is quite a bit more expensive than the Standard Generation 3, but you get better waterproofing, faster speeds, a DC power supply, and overall better marine install for that price, plus hopefully a bit more longevity. You just have to figure out how to make big enough holes for the cable, and you're set 🤣 What have your experiences been with your Starlink? Let me know in the comments below! ### Maretron MConnect Review URL: https://seabits.com/maretron-mconnect-review/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:46:09.000Z --- The [Maretron MConnect](https://www.maretron.com/products/mconnect/?ref=seabits.com) is a new product designed to connect to your NMEA 2000 network and provide visibility into the data on your boat. I've been using the MConnect for over 6 months now, and it has become one of my go-to devices aboard, but with some caveats. Quick video overview If you're interested in a video overview, there's one above - however, it is pretty high level. The article below goes into a lot more detail! ## Box & Hardware ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_9483.jpeg) MConnect WSV100-01 Box ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/IMG_9484.jpeg) Quick Install Guide ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/IMG_2213.jpeg) The hardware is pretty well thought out. It has dual NMEA 2000 network connections in case you have 2 separate networks, an ethernet port or WiFi to allow devices to connect to it, and a USB port to keep it updated with new software. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/IMG_2218.jpeg) Status lights The status lights are very clear and have worked well while I have used the MConnect. It's pretty easy to see what is happening, which is good. I've had some stability issues and the status lights are a quick way to see if things are healthy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/IMG_2214.jpeg) The connections are nicely labeled and have good space between to allow access. The power and RS-232/485 connectors are pretty small, and the latter is not used as far as I can tell. The LAN port could be waterproofed if you so desire. I'm just glad that they offer both WiFi and ethernet connections, which is nice depending on where this will be installed and how your network is setup. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/IMG_2217.jpeg) The mounting option is limited to screwing it into a surface, and the mounting holes are very deep, requiring long screws. The unit has a USB port, with a waterproof cover, that can be used to upgrade the software, which I've done a few times during the early releases and will cover further down in the software section. One really odd choice is the power wiring and colors. The wires are super tiny, which is annoying, but the worst part is that the DC positive is **black**, the DC negative is **brown**, and there are blue and an unsheathed wire in there as well that aren't used. Not only is this not even close to marine standards, I'm worried some folks could damage their product given that black has been negative on boats for years. 💡 It sounds like Maretron may have been using a different version of hardware for the early units, as their documentation now shows a different color for wiring - red for DC positive, and black for DC negative. Unlike Maretron's N2Kview product that folks have used for many years, the MConnect does not require USB dongles or funky software - it is a standalone device that you can access via WiFi or Ethernet once you connect it to your network, nothing else required. ## Software The software side of things is the fun part of the product. All it requires is a web browser, which means you can use it from a PC or mobile device very easily. It's a fantastic approach that I wish more marine vendors chose over proprietary Windows-only software, dongles, and other nonsense. The initial version (1.1.3) was released on October 25th, 2024 and had a lot of issues, but thankfully a new version (1.2.0.20250417) was released in April 2025 that has fixed many of them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-05-05-at-4.14.22---PM.png) Upgrading from a beta to production release via the USB port The update process requires downloading a file and placing it on a USB stick which you insert into the device. While easier than some other products, I really wish they would have an option to do that within the web interface to the product itself. One interesting thing is that the specifications say "Can support simultaneous access by up to four users" which seems low, and I've been able to connect to it with quite a few more systems without any noticeable issues. This is one of the key benefits of the MConnect - you can use it from any device that has a web browser - very convenient for displaying data pretty much anywhere around your boat. ### Settings & Configuration ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Screenshot-2025-01-25-at-6.21.23-PM.png) Settings main screen The general navigation and settings is somewhat confusing. To configure the screens, you go into Configuration, not Screens. Screens is to choose a screen to display. Within Configuration, you click on "Edit Configuration" to edit a Screen. Settings is for basic settings. I think some of this could be streamlined or renamed to provide some additional clarity, but over time if you use it enough it becomes more obvious where things are. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-6.13.51---PM.png) Configuration Page One of the first things you'll want to do is to create your own configuration. By default, the configuration cannot be modified, so to do anything you'll need to either make a copy of the default one, or start from scratch. The other thing I **highly recommend** is to back up your configuration frequently using the "Export" option in Configuration. I lost my configuration twice, and even though I had backups, it required re-doing some work. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-12-at-6.44.47---PM.png) Diagnostics page ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-12-at-6.42.07---PM.png) Device List On the Devices settings page, you can see all of your NMEA 2000 devices and what appears to be JSON-ish data below with realtime updates, which is nice. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-12-at-6.43.29---PM.png) Details on SCX-20 compass You can filter down to the JSON data for just a particular product by clicking on the name which is nice for troubleshooting. Overall, the Settings area provides a decent amount of info, but it could be organized better, and has some formatting bugs. ### Building Screens Ultimately, you will spend most of your time building screens, placing buttons and objects on the canvas, and configuring things to suit your setup. This part of the product is better than N2Kview, but that's not a great comparison, to be honest. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Screenshot-2025-01-25-at-6.27.38-PM.png) Screen configuration page Once you get into the more important areas, such as laying out screens, there are so many elements and items on the screen it can be overwhelming. I do like how there is a link to Documentation right in the interface, and it's pretty good. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Screenshot-2025-01-25-at-6.30.15-PM.png) Choosing a component type This is where I spent most of my time - adding new screens and then adding components to each screen. It took a lot of trial and error to understand the types of components, what to use them for, what their limitations were, etc. Some are pretty well documented, while others require some experimentation. There are also display components that are standard, and customized. You can get really fancy and use different background images and colors for when things are in different statuses. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-6.30.02---PM.png) Configuring a Battery State of Charge component Each component has different parameter fields, component fields, formatting, ranges, and the like depending on what the component is. In the example above, I'm configuring a Battery State of Charge component and using instance 239, which is the way Victron by default reports a BMV product through a GX product onto a NMEA 2000 network. While having the device instance is great, we also need the data instance, which Maretron treats as "plug and play" (directly from their manual). Modern systems on NMEA 2000 networks, such as a Victron GX, will have multiple data instances on one device, such as multiple solar controllers or multiple inverters. N2Kview, Maretron's existing monitoring product, does not deal well with this at all, and in many cases will randomly display different data. I've done hundreds of N2Kview installs and configurations, and this is probably the number one complaint from customers. The fact that MConnect also does not support this is something that should be high on the list of things to correct so that the proper data is displayed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Screenshot-2025-01-25-at-6.29.58-PM.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-6.28.55---PM.png) Confusing ways to adjust a component Where you can clearly see good intentions, but challenging user design, is in selecting things like ranges for an alert, or for what condition you want this component to be relevant (underway, docked, etc.). I like that you can drive status choices for a particular component, but there is a lot of wasted screen space for each of these, and you have to do it component by component - there is no way to do this ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-03-at-10.26.03---AM.png) Image Manager The MConnect also lets you upload images for various different parts of the product including background, compass roses, gauges, needles, and icons. The total storage capability is 2GB, and I've not been able to figure out how to view the existing uploaded images (oops!) so it's not perfect. You have to go add a component to background to an existing screen to figure out what each one is. You can use this feature to add custom backgrounds to screens, as I have with my home screen, but also to add custom gauge and pointers, alert icons, etc. ### Conditions and Actions This is a promising area that I hope gets expanded, and allows you a limited list of conditions, and an even smaller list of actions that you can string together for a bit of automation. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-6.57.48---PM.png) Low battery voltage Condition In my example above, I'm setting a condition for low battery voltage by using DC voltage, instance 239, and volts as my input. When things get to 11.5 volts for more than 6 seconds, it will then fire an action. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-6.59.11---PM.png) Actions There are only a few actions centered around timers/counters, screens, vessel modes, and breakers. I could create a mode for the boat that is "Alarm" and set it to that, and use that to drive flashing displays, or I could turn off a breaker, if I had compatible breakers/integrations. I could also force the screen to the Electrical screen where it would hopefully show more details about why the batteries are so low. It's not as complex as Node-RED or some of the other solutions out there, but it is a start. Hopefully there will be future enhancements here that can be used to drive alerts, emails, notifications, and more actions in general. ### Eye Candy ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Screenshot-2025-01-26-at-8.31.51-AM.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Screenshot-2025-01-26-at-8.30.00-AM.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Default-shore-power-screen-1.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/outboards.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/WSV-Custom-Graphics.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/WSV-Power-Screen.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/WSV-Watermaker-Screen.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/WSV-Tanks-Screen.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/WSV-Engines-Screen.png) Some of the example screens The product comes with a bunch of default screens that show a wide range of applications including engine, watermaker, shore power, lighting, environments, and more. Maretron chose various backgrounds, including one that is a video of moving water, which is kind of cool, although somewhat distracting. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Default-home-screen.png) Default home screen Many of the components have different visual updates over N2Kview, or are completely new. Some have very clear ways of seeing safety ranges, like the house battery voltage above. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-12-at-6.56.10---PM.png) My custom home page You can customize any screen with background images, colors, and even go as far as creating custom components with your own colors and look. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/05/Screenshot-2025-05-10-at-4.04.40-PM.png) Different sized gaps and overall object widths One of the really frustrating things with building screens is that there are rudimentary tools to arrange objects on a page. You can set various snap-to properties to try to organize things, but getting everything to line up just right is almost impossible, even with the snap functionality. ### Web Page ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/05/Screenshot-2025-05-10-at-3.51.12-PM.png) Maretron MConnect with Victron Cerbo display embedded One of the new features released in version 1.2.0 is the ability to include a web page as an object on a screen. In the above example, I included my Victron Cerbo display (the app / MFD display version) on a page that includes other electrical information. This is a great way to be able to include other apps and systems in one place for ease of navigation, and in case someone is at the helm that might not know where all of those other systems are. ### Tailscale remote access This one is a nice surprise for remote access. As many people have experienced, Maretron's "Cloud" services for accessing N2Kview and other data have been pricey and wildly unreliable. Providing Tailscale as an alternative is an excellent option. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/05/Screenshot-2025-05-10-at-4.10.43-PM.png) Tailscale VPN What this allows you to do is access the MConnect remotely via Tailscale from just about any laptop or mobile device. Tailscale is a lightweight VPN (I'm simplifying it here - you can read more about [Remotely accessing boat systems](https://seabits.com/remotely-accessing-boat-systems/)) that you can setup very quickly on your devices, and then with a few clicks in the MConnect, have access to it remotely from anywhere. They do not go into very much detail in the manual on how to use this, expecting you to understand Tailscale and how it works, which is disappointing. I'll quickly show you how to use it from a mobile device, assuming you have a Tailscale account, have followed Maretron's instructions, and have the Tailscale app installed on the mobile device. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/IMG_2240-2.jpeg) Connecting to Tailscale using my iPhone Above I've connected to my Tailscale account, logged in, and clicked the slider in the upper right to go from "Not Connected" to "Connected". Now I can see both my iPhone and the MConnect available. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/IMG_2241-1-1.jpeg) MConnect connection options If I click on the MConnect item, I'm given a list of addresses. The DNS address does not appear to work, so Maretron may not be registering things correctly. I have had good results using the IPv4 address. Copy that by clicking on the two pieces of paper to the right, then open a browser of your choice, paste that address in.... ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/IMG_2242.jpeg) Connected to MConnect through Tailscale And now I'm connected to my MConnect remotely! In this particular example, I was away from the boat using a cellular connection. My key ended up expiring after 5 months, which appears to be the default that Maretron used when building the product. In order to fix it, I had to stop the Tailscale connection, uninstall it on the MConnect, and then re-install it, re-add the machine, etc. I have asked if they could lengthen this, but have not heard back. It's great to have a robust way to connect to the MConnect remotely, and I wish more marine vendors would just leverage already existing solutions like this. ## Using It In general, it is pretty easy to use once you have screens configured and given thought to a main page, navigation, and things along those lines. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Docked-1.png) My custom "Docked" page It's also nice to not have to run a proprietary client such as N2Kview, or even some of the various apps and tools you could use with Signal K. The MConnect is simply a web interface, so you can open it on a PC, mobile device, iPad, whatever you want. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Underway.png) My custom "Underway"page I have it running on a display at the helm as well as an iPad in my stateroom 24x7, but I also flip it up on my phone if I happen to need to see something quickly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Wind-1.png) My custom "Wind" page If you're like most boaters, you are always wondering "what was the speed of that wind gust that just came through!" I usually have a custom page on any product that lets me see that, and the MConnect is my new favorite version of this. The older N2Kview wind rose had the speed embedded in the bottom center of the gauge, which meant at times you couldn't see the speed. I like the new version layout and colors that shift from port to starboard, allow you to label it clearly, and has a big numeric indicator in the bottom right. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/05/Screenshot-2025-05-10-at-3.59.46-PM.png) Tanks page I do like the new tank object compared to N2Kview. This one not only shows the level, but also red, yellow and green markers along the scale depending on your settings. I use this page when fueling and balancing my tanks which is why there is a large roll object in the bottom middle. Very helpful when moving fuel around to get things just right. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Screenshot-2025-01-25-at-6.37.20-PM.png) Alerts Alerts are kind of cool, but pretty simple. From any page with a Screen Status button (not a normal Screen Select button), you will see a yellow or red bookmark, depending on severity, and a number indicating how many components on that page are in alert status. It's a good start, but I wish there were more robust alerts and notifications. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-5.09.09---PM.png) Driving alerts through objects on the screen Alerts are driven by an object on a screen that is in a warning or alarm state. Here you can see five items that are not in a happy state. In addition, it looks like there are five alerts on other pages that are serious (power and tanks) and one less serious on the home page. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-5.26.41---PM.png) Mode changes One nice thing that works across the MConnect and N2Kview product is mode changes. You can switch between the standard ones such as Moored, Underway, Anchored, and it changes it on both products. This is helpful for driving alerts and alarms, as well as general display changes. ## Integrations There are a list of various systems and products that the MConnect integrates with, including the following. ### **Cameras** AXIS, Hatteland and Omnisense cameras are supported at this time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-180956.png) AXIS M3057 dome camera I tested camera support with an AXIS M3057-PLVE Mk II Network dome camera. I had to play around with the settings a bunch to get it to work, and ended up with 1920 x 1080 resolution and 10 frames per second, which is quite good. The older N2Kview product would never get that high of resolution or FPS, which meant seeing the video was a bit of a challenge or was choppy or slow. That's a great improvement. Unfortunately, there's really no customization when it comes to specific RTSP or other settings, which would be useful for cameras like mine which have "sub" cameras that split the image up into quads, etc. Perhaps in a future release, if folks ask for more specific support for their cameras, Maretron can provide some exposed settings, or better yet, support ONVIF or something similar where things are a bit easier to configure. ### Multi Function Displays / Chart Plotters B&G, Garmin, Nobletec, Raymarine, Navico/Simrad, Furuno, Q are all on the supported list, with some specific models for each. Check the manual for an updated list. MConnect shows up as an icon on the MFD so you can display it quickly. A nice touch that many manufacturers are using. ### Digital Switching ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-6.53.58---PM.png) Switch control The MConnect works with Maretron's MPower line of products, which would allow you to manage that ecosystem using on-screen controls within a screen. I don't have an MPower to test with, so I was unable to do anything meaningful. ### Other Integrations Mastervolt switches, Fusion Radios, Lumishore Lighting, Reverseo Outboard Flushing Systems, Shadow-Caster Lighting Systems. There are very limited details other than "MConnect is integrated with the above" which I assume means they will show up as objects we can configure, although I have a Lumishore system and do not see anything different. Hopefully someone with some of these other systems will test and post something in the comments! ## Challenges ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-5.06.01---PM-2.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-at-5.05.54---PM-1.png) Navigation icons have to be added manually Navigation is ad-hoc and sometimes confusing. Every screen requires that you build and add at least a "Home" button so you can get back from that screen to the main screen. If you want links to every other screen, you have to add each by hand, or use a control that creates a horizontal menu. It would really be nice if instead of this, they had a global control or slide down/out that allowed you to pick from a list of screens. You can sort of do this by hitting settings, then going to screens, and choosing a screen, but that is way too many clicks. There are no alerts, it won't trigger emails or notifications in any way. The only alerting is visual on the screen. For a product designed to allow you to control and manage your boat network, this seems like a big miss. Hopefully Maretron will add this. Stability has been extremely bad the first 3-4 months, with daily crashes and lockups causing it to be completely unreliable. The newest release as of April has improved this, but the product still locks up every so often, requiring a power cycle. I have also lost my entire configuration twice, resulting in starting over. Once was with the earlier software, which obviously has been updated, but I lost it again even after the upgrade. I now always create a backup before making any major changes, which is a good practice in general. However, for the product to completely lose all custom configuration is not a great experience. I mentioned it while talking about components on screens, but the lack of data instance support is going to be challenging with this product in integrating with devices that are conforming to the NMEA 2000 standard. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Nightmode.png) Night mode Night mode is not something I have found usable, unfortunately. By default, it just adds a red layer "in front" of everything, which makes some things hard to see, and generally is not as intuitive as a night mode that would change each individual object colors. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Nightmodesettings.png) Night mode settings You can change the color and brightness, but this seems like a really poor way to try to provide a night version. Most products take each object on the page and change colors to be night friendly. I appreciate that they give you the option to change the color and brightness, but it really just doesn't seem good enough. ## Alternatives There are a few alternatives or things you could use instead of MConnect: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Screenshot-2025-01-26-at-9.04.24-AM.png) KIP Instrument MFD display with Signal K **Signal K** \- almost everything that MConnect does you could do with a [Raspberry Pi + Signal K + NMEA 2000 interface](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/). In some cases you could do it better, with more modern web components, and of course, you could spit out the data to other places like [Influx, Grafana](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/) or even use Node-RED to take actions. However, this requires that you set all of this up, update it, add plugins, etc. which for some people is beyond their capabilities. Signal K also has a great plugin library that would allow you to drive notifications, integrate it with Home Assistant, and many other functions that the MConnect simply can't do right now. It is quite a bit more DIY, but is more mature and stable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Screenshot-2025-01-26-at-8.58.32-AM.png) Yacht Devices Web Gateway gauges [Yacht Devices WiFi Gateway](https://www.yachtd.com/products/wifi%5Fgateway.html?ref=seabits.com) \- I've always loved the well thought out and inexpensive products Yacht Devices has created, and that includes the WiFi Gateway. It has a gauges interface that allows you to create screens of information that can be displayed anywhere on a browser. It does not have as many gauges or data types as the Maretron MConnect, but it is very easy to use and offers other features. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/07/Screenshot-2025-07-02-172204.png) Maretron N2Kview **N2Kview** \- this is Maretron's current product that provides similar functionality, has been around a long time, and is both loved and hated by installers and boat owners. It has additional functionality such as alerts, anchor watch, and more, but requires an expensive license, and a USB or NMEA 2000 Maretron interface + your own PC. In addition, the software itself is using technology from Adobe that is ancient and frustrating to work with. However, if you need a boat monitoring system with alerts and alarms, it's one of the few out there to choose from. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7576.jpeg) Furuno chart plotter display **Chart Plotters** \- many chart plotters have portions of the functionality that MConnect has via instrument or engine display screens. They are very well developed and supported, but can be limited in terms of functionality, or in terms of what devices they support. However, the screens and setups are usually mostly ready to go out of the box, and sync between other chart plotters on your network. There are other alternatives that specific boat manufacturers have installed but that I've never had the opportunity to test, or they are cost prohibitive when compared to the above. ## Conclusion ### Pros - Easy deployment - plug in and start configuring - Very responsive - very fast and easy to use on a PC or touch screen - Easier configuration than many other similar tools, including Maretron's N2Kview - Doesn't require a special program or client - works in any browser - Tailscale remote access - see your boat data from anywhere - Integrates with a bunch of MFDs, cameras, digital switching, etc. ### Cons - No audible alarms or alerts - only on screen indicators - Confusing UI design in areas - Night mode difficult to use - Somewhat unstable - Lack of data instance support for NMEA 2000 devices Should you buy the MConnect? That's a hard question to answer. It's a promising product with some rough edges right now. If you are looking for something to display various NMEA 2000 data on clear, easy to edit web pages, and you don't want to DIY something like Signal K, then yes. You'll need a little patience in setting up screens, but once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. The product is still only on its second release of software, and has some instability, so you should be prepared for that. In addition, [Maretron was just acquired by Teledyne/Raymarine](https://www.teledyne.com/en-us/news/Pages/teledyne-acquires-maretron.aspx?ref=seabits.com) on July 1, 2025, so the future of this product may be affected by that. If you require audible or other notifications or alerts, you'll need to find another product such as Signal K, N2Kview, etc. Hopefully Maretron will provide some details on the roadmap and spend some time refining their user experience to make this a true replacement for N2Kview with even better features and connectivity. If you are curious about a particular feature, component, or area in MConnect, be sure to post a question in the comments and I'll do my best to answer. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 14 comments Steve Mitchell@steve July 03, 2025 It turns out you can also export individual screens which could be really cool for sharing with others who want a starting point. I’ll work on exporting a few of mine, and maybe even create a thread specifically for that so we don’t clutter the comments here. Bob Easterday@Bob\_Easterday July 03, 2025 I was one of the early adopters, but got stuck on the data instancing issue. That’s pretty much a deal breaker for me, until they fix it. I see a lot of potential, once they resolve that and the lingering lock-up issue. Tailscale is great, until the unit locks up. Once that happens I have to wait for my next trip to the boat to reset it. I suppose I could put it on a Control By Web relay (cellular), but really shouldn’t have to… Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 July 03, 2025 Bob\_Easterday: > got stuck on the data instancing issue Can you provide more details on what the data instancing was causing problems with? Just curious more than anything. In terms of lockups, how often are you seeing them now? I assume you’ve upgraded? Bob Easterday@Bob\_Easterday↩ #5 July 04, 2025 It has actually only locked up a couple of times since the upgrade, which is far better than the 2 or 3 times per week with the initial release. I have 2 Victron smart shunts and I can’t seem to get MConnect setup to track them separately. Curiously, I have multiple tank sensors and it seems able to keep those separate. I also use Ruuvi temp/humidity sensors which are exposed via Victron. I can see those via signalK, but not through Mconnect. One interesting note; The Mconnect runs on a Raspberry Pi. garybird@garybird July 06, 2025 Hi Steve. Great to see you getting more reviews posted on boat tech! We always enjoy these! Regarding MConnect, do you think this would be useful for remote monitoring of vessel fleets that are using Mastervolt DC power and solar setups? Victron has the remote monitoring nailed with VRM but I can’t seem to locate anything contemporary to work with Mastervolt remote monitoring. Happy cruising! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 July 06, 2025 Bob\_Easterday: > I have 2 Victron smart shunts and I can’t seem to get MConnect setup to track them separately. This is almost assuredly the device instance vs data instance problem that Maretron have more-or-less ignored for years. I’m going to guess that both of the BMVs have the same device instance. You might be able to get things to work better by changing one of them to a different instance number. Bob\_Easterday: > I also use Ruuvi temp/humidity sensors which are exposed via Victron. I can see those via signalK, but not through Mconnect. I have a lot of Ruuvi sensors as well, and I can see those on my NMEA 2000 network, but I believe I am using Signal K to put those on the network. I’d have to go back and look since I have quite a few things on my network Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 July 06, 2025 garybird: > do you think this would be useful for remote monitoring of vessel fleets that are using Mastervolt DC power and solar setups I don’t think it’s the first thing I would look at to use to monitor Mastervolt. Right now, MConnect is better for real-time monitoring while on board the boat, not necessarily longer term data analysis and alerting. I’d consider things like [Signal K + Grafana + Influx](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/) if you want to go open source, or even some of the commercial remote monitoring solutions for general boat health. The key is going to be getting the Mastervolt data you want to see on a network that something else can monitor, such as the NMEA 2000 network. It would really depend on what you want to monitor, if you want longer term data graphs, and then the type and nature of alerts you’re looking for. Bob Easterday@Bob\_Easterday↩ #8 July 06, 2025 Thanks. I’ll muck around with device instancing when next @ the boat garybird@garybird↩ #9 July 06, 2025 Thanks for the response Steve. There is fleet of a particular model of catamaran that has always been Victron onboard. So remote support, especially as a fleet, is easy with VRM. Now the builder is switching to Mastervolt, primarily because of the partnership with Integrel E-Drive but will be losing their ability to remotely monitor their new Mastervolt equipped fleet. I was thinking about the Signal K + Grafana + Influx approach but am hesitant to get into too much custom work. They will definitely need remote (cloud based) alarming and realtime monitoring of Masterbus, NMEA and CZone data at some point. Just enough data to be proactive when faults occur and/or look at enough logged parameters to figure out whats going on (bms, batteries, solar, charging, etc). To bad that isn’t a third party or commercial grade solution out there already. Or maybe there is, I just haven’t found it yet. Thanks again for all the great forum topics and reviews. We are an avid follower. Steve Mitchell@steve October 03, 2025 I should note that the Tailscale VPN, while a great feature, has some stability issues. I’ve had to uninstall and re-install it within the Maretron MConnect interface several times. It gets into a mode where you can’t ever get it to connect and show “up” in the Maretron interface. Uninstalling it, rebooting the MConnect, and then re-installing it (which takes a while) seems to be the only way to fix it. That also requires re-authenticating it to your Tailscale account. You’ll have to do this anyhow since the darn key they use is only good for 5 months. So, overall, this feature is great, but implemented poorly. Sigh… Mark Tilden@Mark\_Tilden↩ #12 November 06, 2025 Hey Steve: I’ve been using mConnect for quite a while as well. I was one of their beta testers. I noticed in your review that you got the camera control to work. I’ve been totally unable to get it to work. I have three Axis M5525-e cameras on the boat with fixed IP addresses and I have tried several settings on the camera control, using that specific camera model. All I ever get is a “broken image” icon. I’m wondering what you did to get that working? I’d love to have that capability through the tailscale remote access. Any insight would be appreciated! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #13 November 10, 2025 I just looked at my settings - they’re pretty straightforwards. However, I configured my AXIS cameras long ago to be compatible with Maretron’s stuff. I think the details are in the manual from what I remember - maybe not for MConnect, but for N2Kview they definitely are. Mark Tilden@Mark\_Tilden↩ #14 November 12, 2025 Hey Steve: I looked through the N2KView documentation as well as the mConnect documentation and didn’t find anything helpful. But I *did* stumble on to the answer (or at least, *an* answer). For whatever reason, my mConnect camera controls work perfectly as long as I leave the username and password fields in the control configuration blank! If I put *anything* in the username field, the output immediately changes to the broken image icon. I’m not sure why this is the case. The username and password I entered were correct. So…..if others are struggling to get the camera controls to work, like I did, try emptying the username and password fields! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #15 November 12, 2025 Good information to know! Maretron’s camera integration has always been finicky. Some of their older stuff required the root/admin user credentials, and others you had to mess with some RTSP settings to get them to work. Glad you got yours working! ### Starlink Performance Kit Power Testing URL: https://seabits.com/starlink-performance-kit-power-testing/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:47:24.000Z --- The Starlink Performance Kit has a new option for DC power which has been a long-requested feature for boats. I cut apart the DC cable, test both AC and DC power, and investigate some of the specs. If you prefer a video format, there's one above! ## Advanced Power Supply ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_2101-1.jpeg) Starlink Advanced Power Supply info plate At the heart of all of this is the advanced power supply. There are a few things I noticed when digging into the specs: - DC power can't achieve the same maximum as AC power - Starlink recommends 20 volts minimum DC power for full functionality We'll delve into both of these below. From the [Durability Guide](https://api.starlink.com/public-files/durability%5Fguide%5Fperformance%5Fkit.pdf?ref=seabits.com): "*Starlink Advanced Power Supply DC input was qualified for input voltages from *10.5V to 57V*. However, it is *recommended to power the system at DC voltages above 20V when possible*. At lower input voltages, output power will be reduced to limit the total amperage from the power supply to *less than 20 amps*. In these cases, user *terminals demanding high power (very high throughput with snow melt active) may throttle due to the power limitation.**" I'm super happy that the power supply will survive down below 12 volts to a low of 10.5 volts. This will come in handy when your batteries are low, or a big appliance kicks off. What is interesting is that Starlink recommends using a minimum of 20 volts for best performance. Anything less will reduce the overall DC amperage draw to 20 amps, and reduce your overall wattage. It also will reduce potential performance and snow melt. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-24-at-12.24.10---PM.png) Starlink Durability Guide DC power graph In my case, I am supplying around 12 volts DC power, so I will only be able to achieve about 230 watts if I estimate that point on the graph above. While I will likely need snow melt during the winter, and I would like higher throughput (I assume this comes with the newer v3 satellites and gigabit speeds), I think I'd rather have better power usage as a trade off. If I wanted to get to the higher output range, I could throw a 12 to 24 volt converter in the mix and provide the power supply with something more than 20 volts, but now we're converting power, and there will be loss. Also, for my boating profile, being at sea level all of the time, I don't get huge snowfall, so I may not need as much snow melt capacity as someone who is at a higher elevation with higher snowfall totals. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-26-at-7.50.48---PM.png) 438 Mbps download result during a DC powered speed test I also have not seen any performance impacts to using the power supply with 12 volt DC as you can see above. One of the highest speed test results I've ever seen with any Starlink dish aboard a boat - **438 Mbps download speed**! ## AC Power Testing ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-26-at-7.53.46---PM.png) AC power in watts during a speed test AC power testing was pretty straightforwards. I used a Kill A Watt meter to record how much the system was using. I did 40 tests and came up with these general averages: - Boot up: 25 watts - Searching for satellites: 78 watts - Normal use: 40-50 watts - Speed test: 85 watts ## DC Power Cable ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-26-at-7.54.53---PM.png) Starlink XT60 ends The provided DC power cable appears to have XT60 ends. I chose to cut the cable and investigate the wire inside. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-26-at-7.55.33---PM.png) 10AWG wire? The wire inside appears to be 10 AWG or something similar. It is not tinned, so I recommend trying to keep it as waterproof as possible if you cut it by using heat shrink butt connectors or something similar. I chose to use 10 AWG marine-grade wire to extend this wire down to a DC panel. I also installed a blade-type 20 amp fuse in the wire as close to the power supply as possible. I chose a 20 amp fuse because the Durability Guide indicates the max amp draw for the power supply at anything less than 20 volts is 20 amps of DC. I still sized my wire at 10 AWG to cover the max of 25 DC amps. ⚠️ Please ensure you engage a qualified electrician to install your Starlink if you choose to use DC power. The correct size of wire and fusing are very important to ensure a properly working Starlink, and the safety of your boat and its occupants! ## DC Power Testing ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-26-at-8.01.55---PM.png) Volt and amp meters while testing DC power DC power testing was a little more involved. I used a voltmeter to measure the real-time volts and a clamp meter to monitor the DC amperage, and a I did 40 tests and came up with these general averages: - Boot up: 25 watts - Searching for satellites: 95 watts - Normal use: 40-50 watts - Speed test: 92 watts So it used a bit more power than the AC option during the most intensive things, but still pretty close overall. ## Results ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-26-at-4.05.46---PM.png) DC and AC testing results DC power testing has shown that on a 12 volt DC system, the Starlink Performance Kit uses between 2 and 8 amps of DC power. This is without using snow melt or any other options. This translates to 25-96 watts. AC power testing shows a range of 25-85 watts of power usage. You might conclude that AC power is slightly more efficient, but the above does not take into account inverter inefficiencies, and the fact that you need more components to run off of AC power, most notably the inverter itself. Generally speaking, running the Starlink Performance Kit off of DC power is going to be slightly more efficient than on AC power provided by an inverter. However, running it at anything less than 20 volts DC power limits the total power available, which may reduce performance or things like snow melt. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-24-at-5.01.54---PM.png) Cloudflare Speedtest Results on DC power I have not seen any reduction in performance by running on DC power, and I assume Starlink may mean that the future gigabit speeds may be reduced, as those probably require more power. ## Conclusion If you have DC power available, I would recommend using that over AC power for several reasons: - More efficient than using inverted AC power due to losses in inverters - Simpler - internet will still work even if inverter fails However, if you require significant snow melt capabilities, and are powering it from a DC power source that is less than 20 volts, you may wish to use AC power. If you have a 24 volt or higher DC power source, I would definitely recommend running the system from DC power. In all cases with DC power, ensure that you have an **appropriate sized set of source wiring and a proper fuse**. If you don't know what that might be, engage a qualified electrician ([did you know I'm one!?](https://seabits.com/contact/)) to ensure you don't cause a problem or worse! Also, try to get the Starlink Power Supply as close as possible to the DC power source so that voltage drop is minimized. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 12 comments Peter@Peter June 27, 2025 Great test and great article, thanks! Impressive download speed. Do you also have an idea about the upload speed with this new kit? Thanks! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 June 27, 2025 Here’s a speed test I just did while replying to your message: [![Screenshot 2025-06-27 at 8.38.22 AM](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/104fa0fe6b6275c62351ce9dbd489a2ce9bbd7b9.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/104fa0fe6b6275c62351ce9dbd489a2ce9bbd7b9.png?ref=seabits.com "Screenshot 2025-06-27 at 8.38.22 AM") The upload is generally between 15-20Mbps which is in-line with all of the other dishes I have online right now (Standard, Flat High Performance). Peter@Peter↩ #4 June 27, 2025 Thanks! I’m looking forward to the next generation which claims higher upload speeds Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 June 27, 2025 I’m curious what the higher performance satellites (v3?) combined with this dish will do. Perhaps we’ll see faster upload speeds… Peter@Peter↩ #6 June 27, 2025 The major upgrade we’re all waiting for They said these speed increases would come from the v3 + new antennas, curious if they take this one into account as one of those new antennas for the v3. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 June 28, 2025 They have taken that into account and made this statement in their announcement email as well as online: “The Starlink Performance Kit is currently capable of download speeds up to 400+ Mbps for fast, reliable connectivity whenever you need it. Starlink is focused on making network enhancements which will enable gigabit speeds starting in the most remote places on Earth with the Performance Kit. Service plan upgrades will be available in 2026\. No hardware changes needed.” bearcem@bearcem June 29, 2025 Great article. I am currently using the mini on my sailboat and it uses significantly less power and has just adequate performance. It would be interesting comparison to see some specific numbers. Thanks again Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #9 June 29, 2025 bearcem: > It would be interesting comparison to see some specific numbers What specifically would you like to see compared? The power usage of the mini vs. this one? bearcem@bearcem↩ #9 June 29, 2025 The power (ac/dc) comparison and throughput for each. The value seems good for recreational use but probably not real suitable for business purposes. For most, it may be good enough. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #11 June 30, 2025 bearcem: > The power (ac/dc) comparison and throughput for each. The value seems good for recreational use but probably not real suitable for business purpo Gotcha. My mini is dead and I am quite a ways away from somewhere where I can get a replacement shipped to me. Maybe someone with one can do some testing for me so we can add the data together! I have seen more and more of the mini on lower power and smaller boats, and I think it is a great way to have good connectivity on board without a lot of additional equipment. John Shepard@John\_Shepard↩ #12 October 11, 2025 Thanks for the info on the power kit. It took me a minute to realize that the mini is not included in the suitability of the power kit. Starlink now offers a 12V plug and a USB-C cable for connecting the mini to your boat’s power. What are your thoughts on this newish hardware? I have just acquired my mini. At the dock, it works well on AC. The next step for me is to use DC power at anchor. The hardware to use is my query. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #13 October 11, 2025 John\_Shepard: > Starlink now offers a 12V plug and a USB-C cable for connecting the mini to your boat’s power. What are your thoughts on this newish hardware? I have just acquired my mini. At the dock, it works well on AC. The next step for me is to use DC power at anchor. The hardware to use is my query. Hi John, I’d need to know a little more about your power system and boat before I could answer definitively. For instance, do you have an inverter? You could continue to use the AC power solution if so, and it would be the easiest way to continue using the Starlink Mini. If you don’t have an inverter for AC power while away from the dock, then a DC solution is required. Starlink did come out with a 12V cigarette lighter adapter to USB-C power with a cable that might work. I also just got back from a big boating trade show where there were several boat-specific versions of this that provide a more stable output power to ensure the Starlink works even if your batteries are lower than normal, and the DC power cable run is longer. I’m working on getting those written up soon on the site! ### Starlink Performance Kit Unboxing URL: https://seabits.com/starlink-performance-kit-unboxing/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:48:12.000Z --- Starlink released a new version of hardware called the Performance Kit that costs about $2000 and has a bunch of boat-friendly features that have been a long time coming. Here's my initial unboxing and impressions. ## Unboxing Video I did a full initial unboxing video available below. ## Specs What excited me about this new setup is the specs both for the dish, the cabling, and the power supply. Up until now, even with the [Flat High Performance dish](https://seabits.com/starlink-flat-high-performance/), the units never really seemed to be designed with the marine environment in mind, in particular for waterproofing and longevity. Officially, this dish is the Performance Gen 3, but it comes marketed as the Performance Kit. The summary of the dish from Starlink is "Designed for resilient connectivity in remote areas and harsh environments, extreme weather, high-vibration settings, and in-motion usage." There's even a [Durability Guide](https://api.starlink.com/public-files/durability%5Fguide%5Fperformance%5Fkit.pdf?ref=seabits.com) that talks about each aspect of the performance kit, which is pretty fun reading (for nerds like me). Official specifications are [available here](https://www.starlink.com/specifications?spec=7&ref=seabits.com), but I'm going to summarize the ones that I think will be good for boats. **IP69K waterproof rating** \- this is the highest water ingress rating you can get, and means that the dish can handle high pressure and high temperature spray from various angles. Starlink says "Suitable for 1 meter of water submersion for up to 30 minutes and pressure washing." Having had my own challenges and failures with previous versions due to water, weather, and snow, this is a very nice improvement that I think will benefit boaters quite a bit. **Advanced Power Supply** \- includes the ability to power it via AC or DC power (yes!) , rack and wall mountable, battery backup wiring option, and lots of diagnostics and monitoring. The ability to power it via AC or DC is perfect for boats and RVs, and its great to see that Starlink is providing this directly. I'll be testing both methods and looking at power consumption very soon. The power supply has PoE (power over ethernet) on **both** ports, which means that you could power not only the Starlink, but your router as well, which is a really nice touch. Power to the router is a max of 40W. **Designed for 10-year mission life** \- while I don't expect many people will actually use this for 10 years, as the technology will have changed a ton by then, it indicates that Starlink is designing this for a longer use pattern, and it won't likely be obsolete or fall apart as faster as their original systems. ⚠️ The Performance Kit does not come with a router by default. Make sure you have your own router, or you can add a Starlink Gen 3 WiFi router for free when purchasing the kit. Let's take a look at what is in the box. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1806.jpeg) ## Getting Started Card ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1826.jpeg) Pretty standard getting started card. Plug a bunch of stuff in and magic happens. They do also provide a diagram and measurements for the wall mount option on the power supply. To unlock the base is backwards from the way my mind thought it should be - you rotate the dials as if you're tightening them - you can see me struggle and fail in the unboxing video on this part. ## Power Supply ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1816.jpeg) Starlink Performance Power Supply Probably the second most exciting thing to me about the kit is the power supply and its ability to handle DC input. The specs say a peak power of 305 watts, with an average of 91.6 watts. On 12 volt DC power, that would mean a max of 25 amps, and an average of 7.63 amps, which is in the range of the current generation rectangular dish. The power supply also has the ability to send PoE out the ethernet port to provide power to your router. Many routers, such as the Peplink BR2 Pro 5G I use today, can be powered this way, and will simplify installs with less cables and connections. I will likely continue to run my router via its dedicated DC power connection as it is the most efficient in terms of power conversion. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1817.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1818.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1819.jpeg) Power supply connection points I do like how all of the connection points on the power supply are on one side, and if mounted on a wall, are pointed down. Even though these connections are IP68 waterproof rated, I like having them all pointed down in the event water does get near the power supply. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1820.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1821.jpeg) Power and network connections The connections themselves are protected by inserts that you could leave in to maintain a seal, and are quite deep in the body of the power supply. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1822.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1823.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1825.jpeg) Power supply mount The wall mount for the power supply is quick and easy to use, and snaps back into the bracket easily. Some of the older setups were really stiff and had very tight plastic clips that made it difficult to get routers and power supplies in/out. ## Starlink Cable ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1809.jpeg) Starlink cable This cable is part of the reason we get the new IP68K water rating. It is a 5 meter / 16.5 foot cable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1807.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1808.jpeg) Starlink cable end On one end is this spring loaded, stainless steel encased connector that goes directly into the dish. On the other end is a waterproof ethernet connector that goes into the power supply. This end feels extremely well built, and the spring action is really satisfying. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1843.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1844.jpeg) Plugging the Starlink end of the cable into the dish is easy and clear with the indicator lines, and the little flanges on the side make it easy to reach in and twist to remove. Many of the previous cables were hard to know if they were inserted fully, many came out very easy, or were funky to remove. I'm glad they spent time improving this. The connectors are still quite big on either end, and while there seems to be a field replacement kit coming in the fall, it appears it might only be applicable to older units. I hope they offer one for this cable as well, as this has been one of the worst parts of installing Starlinks for customers - the crazy proprietary and large funky ends that require large holes or terrible patch jobs. ## Power and Ethernet Cables ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1811.jpeg) Ethernet cable There is an included ethernet cable which has a Starlink-ized end with the tiny tab similar to the current rectangular dish cabling, and a standard ethernet end on it. This is to connect the power supply to the router of your choice. Remember, by default, this kit does not come with a router unless you specifically select it at check out - it's free, but Starlink also realizes many people would prefer to use their own router with this pro level kit, and doesn't force you to have another bit of electronics lying around if you don't want it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1815.jpeg) AC power cable for power supply The AC power cable is pretty short, and comes with a proprietary end, but is waterproof like the rest of the cables. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1812.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1813.jpeg) DC power cable The DC power cable looks like it could be somewhat standard - it seems familiar to me, but I can't quite place it. The wiring feels very solid - I'll get more into this when I cut an end off to add DC terminals during installation. ## Performance Dish Gen3 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1827.jpeg) Performance Dish Gen 3 I get excited about tech a lot, but this particular part of this kit is beautifully built an executed, more than a lot of things I've seen recently. The dish itself is pretty heavy at 11.5 pounds. The standard dish is only 6 pounds, so this has some heft to it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1836.jpeg) Back of dish The entire bottom and edges are made of grey powdercoated aluminum. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1832.jpeg) Aluminum edge The aluminum comes up around the edge of the dish on the top and provides complete protection all the way to that point. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1838.jpeg) Front bottom corner Water appears to be able to get in between the aluminum and the dish, but in the front bottom corners, there are holes where I assume that water can drain out. This dish has higher snow melt capabilities, and in the specs and durability guide, they mention that having it mounted at an angle is important to facilitate drainage. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1829.jpeg) The dish surface itself has some sort of matte coating on it that ends before the actual edge of the dish. Not sure what that is all about, but I'm sure we'll learn more as folks dig into it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1837.jpeg) Mount and cable connector One thing that was a bit disappointing about the purchase experience is that the mount is not shipped in the kit. You can select between a flat and wedge mount at check out, included in the price, but it ships separately. I chose the wedge mount, and it's almost a week delayed behind the dish. For now, I'm going to make something with standoffs to get things mounted and working. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1840.jpeg) I do like the stainless thread inserts as a mounting platform. They look very strong, and will allow 3rd parties to come up with alternative mounts with a fairly easy hole pattern. This is an improvement over the standard rectangular dish mounting system. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/06/IMG_1841.jpeg) Starlink cable connection The Starlink cable connection looks really well thought out so far. I like the stainless steel, clear markings, and waterproof rating. ## Wrap Up I've used Starlink dishes since Feburary 2021 and have always had gripes about the hardware not being fully marine capable, or just not thought out in a way that is useful for boaters. That's only 4 years, but it seems like a lot longer because we're trained to expect new versions of things every year (thanks Apple), and that products will work in various markets. I was hopeful for the [Starlink Flat High Performance](https://seabits.com/starlink-flat-high-performance/) dish, but that was just a quick iteration on the Business Performance dish with a maybe-better (it wasn't) cable connector. That product came out only a couple of years ago, and is still a really good option, although it is quite power hungry. The Starlink Performance Kit has really impressed me with the quality cable connector that is super waterproof at the dish end, the power supply that can be run by AC or DC power, and the dish itself that seems to be built to withstand extreme weather conditions. I will of course be testing this setup right away, and will post updates as results come in. What do you think of this new hardware? Will you be buying it? Leave your questions and comments below. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 7 comments donald.joyce9@donald.joyce9 June 15, 2025 I think this is a tremendous improvement. I do have a bone to pick regarding the finish. Powder coating aluminum is rarely a good choice in the marine environment, especially in tropical regions. The problem is that, unless applied perfectly, powder coating is porous, and salt air will initiate corrosion. Very good hard anodizing is a better solution, as evidenced by various sailboat hardware, such as winches, etc. Sadly, just like powder coating, not every anodizing facility does a perfect job, but the probability that the job is done well is much higher. Steve Mitchell@steve June 15, 2025 donald.joyce9: > The problem is that, unless applied perfectly, powder coating is porous, and salt air will initiate corrosion I had not thought about this - I was probably just super excited to see the improvements they made overall This is a very good point. There are a lot of vendors that have moved away from this approach because of failures. It will be interesting to see how this fares. Steve Mitchell@steve June 15, 2025 A reader sent me a note regarding the DC power connector. It looks like it is an XT60 connector, albeit with a waterproof end on it. [![3803-1516-0505__27411__97450](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/30c85f8e60bf7736ff9d53510d04f307ca5ccc4b.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/30c85f8e60bf7736ff9d53510d04f307ca5ccc4b.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "3803-1516-0505__27411__97450") So, in a pinch, you could probably use an off the shelf cable as long as you’re OK with it not being waterproof at the power supply end. And, this also means you could likely get a male end cable and extend the provided cable further, or change the end without cutting it. bsaitz@bsaitz↩ #5 June 16, 2025 Looks awesome, can’t wait to hear how the power and mounting goes. mgfite98034@mgfite98034 June 22, 2025 Starlink is a game changer for cruisers, fur sur. Thx for the review of this nice bit of new kit. I’ll be curious how it stacks up long term. But… $2000, oouch. If it last then it could be worth it for those who could get a lot of use out of it, ie. liveaboards. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 June 26, 2025 The [Flat High Performance dish](https://seabits.com/starlink-flat-high-performance/) was $2500, so I suppose now that they’ve dialed in a hardware platform that is better for in-motion and marine use, $2000 seems pretty “reasonable” Hopefully as other vendors slowly enter this market, we’ll get some cheaper options. bsaitz@bsaitz June 27, 2025 these are great reads, thanks for taking the time to document it all so well! ### Anchor Buddy tips for dinghy trips ashore URL: https://seabits.com/anchor-buddy-tips-for-dinghy-trips-ashore-2/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:48:56.000Z There are a lot of great ways to get ashore and explore, and here’s how I do it using a few different tools with some modifications. ## Going Ashore Going ashore is one of the best parts of being on a boat - exploring new trails and islands, visiting a new town or restaurant - the list goes on. Getting ashore via dinghy can be easy if there is a dock, or a bit more complicated if there isn't. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_6683.jpeg) Long, low beach with rocks near West Redonda Island in British Columbia, Canada Where I cruise, shorelines are almost always rocky or even steep and the water is cold (54F / 12C) and not fun to wade or swim in. Add to that the tidal swings between 8 and 14 feet, and you could end up with a dinghy high and dry or unreachable depending on the beach and how long you're gone. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_2640.jpeg) Rocky, steep shore in Desolation Sound, British Columbia, Canada As a result, I use a strong anchor with some stretchy bits and a shore line to help with getting ashore. Here are the bits and pieces that make up that system. ## Anchor Buddy ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/AB_Red.jpg) Anchor Buddy Most folks who have spent any time going ashore to a beach have found the [Anchor Buddy](https://amzn.to/3R8OthI?ref=seabits.com), which is what I use too. However, I make a few modifications both to the Anchor Buddy, and the pieces attached to it. How to use the Anchor Buddy If you've never come across the Anchor Buddy, it's like having a bungee cord attached to your anchor. The basic process is to throw this off the stern of your dinghy as you're coming into a challenging shoreline, and continue motoring towards shore. If you do it right, you end up with a tight anchor line that stretches. Combine this with another line off of the bow of the boat that you tie to something on shore. Now you have a system where you can adjust the length and tension so that your dinghy is in a desired location while you're away. For my setup, I get rid of the shackle and the clip that come with the Anchor Buddy. Neither are quality metal and they will rust within a season. Every single Anchor Buddy I've purchased in the last 10 plus years has done this - I really wish they'd use quality hardware... ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0541.jpeg) I replace the shackle with a galvanized one that is higher quality and won't rust as quickly. ## Anchor & Chain ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0539.jpeg) Mantus dinghy anchor The next step is to pair the Anchor Buddy with a better anchor. The one that it comes with is nice, but I've had issues with penetration in kelp. I use the [Mantus Dinghy Anchor](https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-quick-connect-anchor/?ref=seabits.com) because it sets well and can be taken apart if you want to store things. It is still a bit bigger than the one the Anchor Buddy comes with, but I'm OK with that. It is not inexpensive, but I have had nothing but good performance out of it for over 6+ years, and it's worth it to me. 🗒️ Note: There are a number of places that sell the Anchor Buddy now, and some come with chain and a better anchor than the ones I've seen being sold online and in chandleries on the West Coast. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0540.jpeg) Anchor Buddy + galvanized shackles + 3' length of chain Next, I pair the anchor with a 3' length of chain. This adds some weight near the anchor which allows it to set easier. I randomly tried this a number of years ago when I saw a short section of chain sitting around on my boat from a windlass/chain upgrade. I'm glad I did as the combo of this + better dinghy anchor has meant a very good set every time I deploy the system. My current dinghy is an [11' 6" Bullfrog](https://www.bullfrogboats.com/11-5-yacht-tender?ref=seabits.com) which weighs about 700 pounds, and I want to make sure it doesn't float away while I'm gone. ## Extension & Clip ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0543.jpeg) 20' line extension added to Anchor Buddy The final pieces in this part of the system is a 20' line added to the end of the Anchor Buddy. This allows me to drop the anchor and stretchy part much further out for more options. This can be helpful on a beach where you end up needing to have the boat float out further while you're gone. You can shorten it as needed depending on the conditions. This is one area where I may improve the setup by switching to floating line both for the floating aspect, but also the color for visibility. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0542.jpeg) ## Shore Tie Now that we have the anchor part setup, the next piece is a shore tie line. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0546.jpeg) Shore tie line with snap shackle I use 100' of line with an eye and a snap shackle at the boat end. I actually am using a basic pre-made anchor line that has a nice eye and a stainless thimble. I added the snap shackle so I can clip it into the bow eye easily. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0547.jpeg) Electrical cord reel shore tie line with snap shackle The whole thing is rolled up on, of all things, an [electrical cord reel](https://amzn.to/4iR77Xf?ref=seabits.com). This allows for the line to be payed out and rolled up easily, it can be thrown out of the boat on shore as you're jumping out, and has worked quite well. At $7, it has to be the cheapest thing I've ever purchased for a boat! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0113.jpeg) This length allows me to get ashore at beaches with long flat spots, or where trees and logs that I need to tie to are much further up the beach. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0548.jpeg) I also carry a dog stake that I can screw into the beach, but I would prefer to tie to something big ashore if at all possible. And yes, I know the one above is all rusty - it's only a couple of years old, and purchased off of Amazon. I've had a lot of poor luck with "stainless steel" products from non-mainstream brands... ## Using The System The first thing I always do is look at the tides. I've learned the hard way when I skip this step and come back to a dinghy that is high and dry with no way to get it in the water! Once I know how the tides are going to behave, I can choose how far out I want the anchor and how much shore line I'm going to pay out depending on where the boat should sit. If the tide is going to go out while I'm gone, I'll probably drop the anchor much further out and pay out a lot of shore line once I'm out of the dinghy so that the dinghy is floating further out. That way when I return, and the tide has gone out, the boat will still be floating and easy to get to. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0139.jpeg) You can see both lines and the dinghy held in place in between If the tide is coming in or staying relatively the same, then I'll drop the anchor close in and have a very short shore tie line. I'll let out just enough to where the dinghy is floating but not too far away, that way I can still pull it in if the tide comes up. It takes some practice to figure this out, and I still get it wrong every so often. Sometimes it's based on the tides not being as accurate, other times it's the unknown beach that you can't see underwater. A lot of the time it's just me screwing up 😄 Once you have the anchor set and the right stretch and distance, getting out with the reel already attached to the bow eye is the next important step. The dinghy can then float back out on the stretchy anchor line while you secure the shore line to a tree or something else. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0119.jpeg) Skull Island, Westsound, San Juan Islands This system has worked very well for me, providing a lot of flexibility and adjustment in differing beaches and tides, and has been extremely secure and robust even in messy conditions. I think the tweaks to the Anchor Buddy combined with some ease of use pieces for the shore tie line make it a great system to get ashore. How do you get ashore? What do you use? Let me know in the comments below! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 6 comments dogbark184@dogbark184 March 19, 2025 Thanks Steve. Love my Anchor Buddy for many years too. Your cord reel addition is something I hadn’t thought of. Nice work. Steve Mitchell@steve March 19, 2025 Trevor Hope@Trevor\_Hope March 19, 2025 I was thinking of trying out Johns system from [Attainable Adventure](https://www.morganscloud.com/2016/02/28/mooring-your-dinghy-while-ashore-made-easy/?ref=seabits.com), but I think I might try your method first! Frank@Frank March 19, 2025 I have used Anchor Buddy for many years to great satisfaction. The modification you mention that doesn’t make sense to me is the additional non-stretch line between Anchor Buddy and the dinghy. While it will allow the anchor to be placed further from shore, I don’t think it will keep the dinghy further from shore. Assuming you take the dinghy all the way in to disembark, the distance the dinghy will be off the beach will be limited to the stretch range of the Anchor Buddy. Also, I have found that a 5 lbs mushroom anchor is adequate, but I have a lighter dinghy Mike@Mike March 29, 2025 We use our anchor buddy and appreciate its design as well! One thing we struggle with is the extra shore line getting tangled up, so will definitely consider the electric cord reel you suggest! We use a folding claw anchor which is very easy to store, and that has held well for us so far. Neal@Neal May 22, 2025 We occasionally find that one anchor Buddy does not provide enough stretch to get the boat to deep water when the shore has a gradual slope, so we put two connect two Anchor Buddies in series to double the amount of recoil. ### Mantus M3 Chain Hook Review URL: https://seabits.com/mantus-m3-chain-hook-review/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:50:18.000Z --- I do a lot of anchoring - over 120 days a year - and require that my anchor bridle setup is robust and reliable. The [Mantus M3 chain hook](https://www.mantusmarine.com/m3-chain-hook/?ref=seabits.com) adds a new dimension to that setup - ease of use. Is the 3rd time the charm? ## Mantus Chain Hook History I had the Mantus version 1 and version 2 chain hooks and liked parts of both of them, but they had some shortcomings. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/image.png) Mantus v1 chain hook The v1 hook was promising - very beefy construction, but it kept the chain at a bit of a side-load, and was a nightmare getting through the bow roller. The plastic retaining piece always worried me, even though it never broke, I was worried about it sliding down and releasing the chain. I used it for a long while, but didn't **love** it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_9206.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_9207.jpeg) Mantus v2 chain hook The v2 was another story. While it had a more streamlined approach, and two big "fangs" to grab the chain, the single point of failure was the rubber strap to hold it onto the chain. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0566.jpg) Mantus v2 chain hook with strap I went through many of the straps, and it was irritating to have to replace them, and also really not cool when the whole thing came off the chain while at anchor. I didn't use the v2 for very long as a result of this issue. ## Mantus Snubber Pendant The [Mantus snubber pendant](https://www.mantusmarine.com/snubber-pendant/?ref=seabits.com) has been my primary anchor bridle connection to my chain for several years now. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_9208.jpeg) Mantus snubber pendant with shackle It is made of UHMWPE fiber which is extremely strong, and attaches to the chain by making a loop around a link. The easiest way to do this, short of taking the shackle apart every time, was to loop the whole bridle through the snubber, which took a bit of time, and meant for some tangled situations. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_9225.jpeg) Mantus snubber pendant after a year of use The other limiting factor is that if you want to adjust the bridle, you need to pull the whole thing in and pull the bridle back through the snubber to remove the connection to the chain. If you're trying to deploy more chain in a storm or other situation, this isn't as optimal. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_5375.jpg) Mantus snubber pendant attached to chain I also had the snubber pendant slip several times when it wasn't snugged down tight against the chain. This also happened a couple of times when the bridle became un-tensioned while deployed. However, this has been the best snubber + bridle setup I've had for a long time. I went through three of the snubbers in the last 5 years with all of the anchoring I do, especially in the winter when the weather is not as nice. ## Mantus M3 Chain Hook The [Mantus M3 chain hook](https://www.mantusmarine.com/m3-chain-hook/?ref=seabits.com) is an evolution of the previous hooks, and while not as flexy as the snubber, is a lot easier to use. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_9519.jpeg) It's made of stainless steel and is quite a chunk of metal. It has a slot for the chain to sit in, and a spring release pin to open the jaw. It also comes with a nice shackle to connect it to your bridle. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0364-1.jpeg) The M3 is very easy to use and attach to the chain. Pull the ring on the pin, and the whole thing swings open. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0357-1.jpeg) I did a quick video on the chain hook so you can see it in action: M3 chain hook testing The biggest downsides are how big and heavy it is - you can do some damage if you drop it on something. It could also get caught in your bow roller on retrieval if you're not attentive. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_9930.jpeg) Chain hook attached to chain The chain hook stays put even when the chain and bridle are unloaded, which was a bit of an issue with the snubber pendant. It's nice to know that where you put the hook, it will stay without moving around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0365-1.jpeg) I would recommend [buying a spare spring](https://www.mantusmarine.com/product-category/ground-tackle/ground-tackle-replacement-parts/?ref=seabits.com) for the pin just in case it wears out. They're really inexpensive ($2-$3) and I always like buying spares at the same time as initial purchase so I know I have everything I need for any maintenance required. ## My Bridle The other half of my bridle is a wonderful setup from [48 North Marine](https://www.48northmarine.com/?ref=seabits.com) in Bellingham, WA. I chose the [3/4" line size](https://www.48northmarine.com/anchor-snubber-bridle-three-quarters-inch?ref=seabits.com) and customized it for a length of 30' overall, and two 18" soft eyes with chafe protection at the boat end. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/03/IMG_0413.jpeg) I've used this bridle for almost 2 years, and it has held up better than any other I've used. I also have dock lines from 48 North Marine as well, but that's a subject for another article. When this one wears out, I will be moving to their [dual independent leg snubber](https://www.48northmarine.com/anchor-bridles?ref=seabits.com) given [Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/)'s weight and how often I am out in storms. ## Conclusion Overall I've been very impressed with the M3 chain hook. I've used it for the last few months and had a great result. ### Pros - Easy to attach and remove from chain - Deploys through bow roller easily - Secure connection to chain - even when chain & bridle is unloaded ### Cons - Can get hung up in bow rollers on retrieval - Heavy - can damage things if you drop it Let me know what you use for your setup in the comments below! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 18 comments Hartley Gardner@Hartley March 09, 2025 Nice review, Steve! I’m glad to see you’ve shifted to a bridle that has some stretch to it - with all chain, having some “give’ has seemed fairly important to us. We used single snubbers on our 48’ 18 ton sailboat for many years, running about 25-30’ of 1/2” nylon, replaced every other year (or when noting wear!). We used many different ways of attaching to our 3/8" chain, none of which were wonderful, which is why I found your review so interesting. But a few years ago, after reading some online opinions, we’ve shifted to an on-deck snubber - about 25’ of 5/8" nylon - fastened back aft, runs along the inside of the toerail (with several aluminum "rappel rings"keeping it out from underfoot. Up forward we have a 9’ dyneema strop (eye at both ends), which runs through a low-friction ring thence over the offside bow roller. We attach it to the chain using a soft shackle arrangement (not a true soft shackle - two separate pieces - one loop with a diamond knot, then another loop with the usual soft-shackle “noose” – both of which are cow-hitched to the eye in the end of the strop. We keep a close eye on the soft shackle for wear, and I make a new one every year, even though we’ve never noted any real wear in the Dyneema. In fact, the only real wear I’ve seen has been on the nylon piece, which was rubbing on one of the turning blocks and got replaced last year. Yes, I have pictures The forward end of the nylon, with a blue soft shackle attaching to the strop: [![Snubber22-5683](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/353cafe690dce867fa018b389b5643d5e04d0b83.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/353cafe690dce867fa018b389b5643d5e04d0b83.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "Snubber22-5683") The soft shackle attachment to the chain: [![Snubber22-5687](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/de0c7777301387e6d7205ee55831da4193297876.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/de0c7777301387e6d7205ee55831da4193297876.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "Snubber22-5687") The tiny yellow line with a diamond knot was to make it easier to attach - but I’ve eliminated it due to a proclivity for hooking the bow roller. With the soft shackle attachment I can bring the chain and snubber attachment right up thru the bow roller, detach it, let out more chain, etc.quite easily, and then re-attach as needed. Since its only 6-7 feet out in front, the snubber doesn’t normally foul the chain if we do the tidal spins! Hartley S/V Atsa Wishing you the best, and I’m looking forward to seeing more from y’all! Trevor Hope@Trevor\_Hope March 09, 2025 Hi Steve, I have a chain hook M2 along with the big snubber from Mantus but I keep it as a backup for when we know we are facing storm conditions. We anchor out 300 days a year and have been using a 30’ 5/8” snubber with an eye splice at one end, along with a 1/4” dyneema soft shackle that connects the eyesplice to the chain. The soft shackle threads through a chain link perfectly and has shown very little sign of chafing, I just make a new one every year or so. I love the big beefy mantus stuff but just find it cumbersome and unnecessary for everyday conditions and less than 30 knots of wind znep@znep March 09, 2025 Good read. I’ve been using the Mantus Snubber Pendant on a GB42 for a number of years now and mostly love it, but it does require special techniques to manage it, and I’m always on the verge of adding another option to the mix. I try to always recognize there are circumstances where it may be necessary to cut the Mantus Snubber Pendant to escape a situation. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 March 09, 2025 Hartley: > With the soft shackle attachment I can bring the chain and snubber attachment right up thru the bow roller, detach it, let out more chain, etc.quite easily, and then re-attach as needed. Since its only 6-7 feet out in front, the snubber doesn’t normally foul the chain if we do the tidal spins! I did love the simplicity of the snubbers I had on my sailboats way back when. I tried dual leg bridles but they just didn’t seem to offer benefits other than adding to the tangled mess of lines Soft shackles are amazing, and used similar to the way you have, are a great way to have a flexible setup! I’ve noticed on a 45 ton trawler with a decent amount of windage (her bow is 9’ from the waterline!) that a dual leg bridle is helpful in reducing swinging. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 March 09, 2025 znep: > I try to always recognize there are circumstances where it may be necessary to cut the Mantus Snubber Pendant to escape a situation. Good point about cutting the snubber in a situation where removing it isn’t possible or time is of the essence. It would probably take a bit to saw through it given how dense that material is, but it is a good option if needed. I also have had the pendant get extremely tight after a big storm and require a decent amount of force and flexing to get it to come off the chain. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 March 09, 2025 Trevor\_Hope: > We anchor out 300 days a year and have been using a 30’ 5/8” snubber with an eye splice at one end, along with a 1/4” dyneema soft shackle that connects the eyesplice to the chain. The soft shackle threads through a chain link perfectly and has shown very little sign of chafing, I just make a new one every year or so. What sort of boat do you have? znep@znep↩ #7 March 09, 2025 steve: > It would probably take a bit to saw through it given how dense that material is, but it is a good option if needed. Agreed it could be a trick, good call out I haven’t tried it but have a couple of tools at the ready for emergencies including bolt cutters, a M12 cut off tool, and cheap but very sharp serrated knives. And a cheap Ryobi angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on more remote trips. Trevor Hope@Trevor\_Hope↩ #8 March 09, 2025 It’s an old Morgan 43 from 1985\. I did not notice on our boat any reduced sailing at anchor with two snubbers vs. one. I’m sure it’s a much different story with a trawler and that high bow! Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #6 March 09, 2025 Hi Steve, Yes, monohull sailboats are fine enough at the bow that 2-leg snubbers aka bridles don’t help (other than being redundant). But cats and motoryachts seem to get good service from them. I’m surprised you’re using just 3/8" HT chain on Aruna - I’d have figured you for 1/2" or 9/16" at 45T We use 3/8" G40 as it fits our wildcat and seems to work well. The soft shackle we use to attach to the chain uses 1/4" Dyneema for the “ball” and 3/16" for the “noose” section, as getting 1/4" through the chain link was difficult sometimes (my wife usually does the anchoring, while I do the “un-anchoring” Since the failure point of a soft shackle is normally where the lines enter the diamond or button knot, I figure we should be getting more than the 1.75 X line strength formula would imply. With 3/16" at 6000 lb ultimate strength, it seems like this part should not be a failure point, even with the smaller size I’m sure it wouldn’t work for you, but the on-deck snubber has a couple of features: one, you don’t have a lot of snubber out front to foul the anchor chain; two, the helmsman can see just how much tension is on the snubber - very handy when setting!; and three, the 3-strand nylon makes a soft but distinct thumping noise when it moves through those “rappel rings” under tension. If I’m below and hear the thumping, I know that the load on the anchor is changing. Hartley S/V Atsa Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #9 March 09, 2025 Hi Marc, Cutting Dyneema (or any HMWPE line) is not easy - bolt cutters won’t touch it, nor will the cutters used for SS cable. Serrated knives are not effective, though a good, new razor knife will do. The absolute best would be a pair of “kevlar scissors” also used for fibre-optic cable and they work a treat on Dyneema. I own 3 pair and the only trick is you have to keep them away from salt exposure as they are VERY hard steel (not stainless!). Hartley S/V Atsa svstayer@svstayer March 10, 2025 To be honest I don’t like hooks where you rely on moving parts not getting stuck. In this one you have to rely on the spring that holds the lock. Similar to the hook available from Whichard. A simple hook is beat for me. It also easily detaches when you pull in the chain and that releases the load. It is recommended that you secure the hook with a small line to the boat, just in case the line or snubber snatches. [![IMG_3399](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/d7e36958cf4cd40d48288849888609cb69606459.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/d7e36958cf4cd40d48288849888609cb69606459.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "IMG_3399") mgfite98034@mgfite98034 March 18, 2025 Hi Steve, It’s great to see you posting again as I always appreciate your perspective. RE the Mantus Chain Hook… I’ve been using a V2 since they first came out. I too went through a couple of straps until Mantus did an upgrade (which was basically a heavy Cordura sleeve around the strap.) I called Mantus to order replacement straps and they sent a couple of the new ones for no charge. Nice customer service. Although I anchor out only about a tenth of the time that you do, I’ve had no problems for the years that I’ve been using the v2 with the improved strap. The v3 looks like a great design though. Thx. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 March 19, 2025 mgfite98034: > Mantus did an upgrade (which was basically a heavy Cordura sleeve around the strap.) I did get the upgraded strap as well, and they sent me quite a few when I called for some replacements, all for free. I still had issues attaching the V2 - the newer strap was very tight and took a lot of force to get across the chain. It was a good system after that, but still not quite perfect. Not to say that V3 is perfect - I don’t think any of these are chris@chris March 19, 2025 Steve, thanks for this review. We use the Mantus M2 on our 48 Greenline attached to a dual bridle that connect to our bow cleats. Unfortunately, I have to attach the M2 via tender. It won’t fit through the hawsehole, and I’ve tried lifting the chain up and connecting it but it have never been successful. So when we stern tie in Desolation or something, we drop anchor, prep the Mantus, wife holds the boat in position, I drop the tender, go to shore, run the stern line back, then I motor to the bow and attach the bridle/ Mantus setup. Solid entertainment for other boaters… Kevin McLaughlin@WallaceGrommet March 27, 2025 I do a pair of ½ triple braid nylon from the bow cleats and a bog standard galvanized 5/16 chain hook. 35 foot sailboat that really hunts around at anchor. Hook Hasn’t fallen off hardly ever, but it must be rigged with me hanging over the bow Mike@Mike March 29, 2025 Hi Steve, great to see you are publishing more! We also have used the M2 for a few years with similar results, holds great as long as that rubber strap doesn’t get bumped off. I also purchased the M3 during the offseason, so thanks for the reminder to go find it and attach it to our snubber! Hopefully it will be a good improvement on the M2, which I expect it will be. Adam Morris@SVConfianza May 02, 2025 We also anchor out most of the year (Privilege 435 Catamaran). However, I’ve been reluctant to try something that might get fowled up retrieving. We’re still on an old school shackle. It’s annoying, but trustworthy. I love playing with new gear and writing about it, but this one might be a hard habit for us to break ha! I haven’t even switched to the soft shackle that I made for the job a year ago. Bill Betts@Bill\_Betts↩ #19 March 01, 2026 I confess that I can fall prey to the lure of new “stuff”, that’s what I’m doing here now, but at the same time a rolling or camel hitch served me well for a 7 year circumnavigation with almost every night at anchor. ### 2024 Trip Highlights and Stats URL: https://seabits.com/2024-trip-highlights-and-stats/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:51:21.000Z --- This year was another amazing one with some super long trips, beautiful anchorages, and fun adventures! ### Numbers for the Year - 3007 nautical miles - 479 hours underway - 140 different trips - 239 days spent away from home port - 136 days at docks - 2 days on mooring balls - 101 days at anchor I took possession of [Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/) on the 30th of December 2023, and the next day took my first trip with her into the San Juan islands. I think these are pretty fantastic numbers for a year when I had a new-to-me boat and needed to deal with some project work early on. ### New Boat & Short Trips - January to April ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_4349.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5236.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_4613.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_4535.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/b0c9a3a2-7a93-41c3-9aba-6bae90d4be58.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_4616.jpeg) First few trips on Aruna - Friday Harbor and Port Madison The first trip of the year was from Friday Harbor to Shilshole, after spending a couple of days out and about. In the first few weeks, I took some trips out to Port Madison and Poulsbo just to get used to the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_4792.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_4768.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_4766.jpeg) Trip to Gig Harbor with Fortitude I took a trip with [Fortitude](https://www.instagram.com/mvfortitude/?ref=seabits.com) down to Gig Harbor at the end of January. One of my favorite pictures all year was Aruna in dense fog with all her lights on when we were coming back from a late dinner at the Tides Tavern. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5098.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5087.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5069.jpeg) Bellingham and Eagle Harbor After a few short trips, I decided to head north and re-connect with Tom on [Equinox](https://www.instagram.com/san%5Fjuanderer/?ref=seabits.com). Stops included La Conner and Eagle Harbor on Cypress Island. He had winter moorage in Bellingham, and I spent a few days there enjoying the town. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5313.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5528.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5507.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5252.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5188.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5123.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_4559.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5760.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6226.jpeg) San Juan Islands and some projects After Bellingham, I headed over into the San Juan Islands for a week or two and ended up with some amazingly sunny weather. I had most of the anchorages and docks to myself, and enjoyed using the boat and getting used to her systems. There were only a handful of big projects I did early in 2024 including my music and work desk area, and upgrades to the electrical system to help with faster charging while on generator, and better visibility into the existing system. These projects made some of the longer trips possible throughout the year, and I'm glad I was able to fit them in early on in the season to benefit from them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_4968.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5606.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6211-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8640-2.jpeg) The pups have adapted well to Aruna The dogs have found Aruna to be "acceptable" and have multiple ways of ensuring they can micro-manage everything around them. It is quite a bit safer for them to be outside given the enclosed nature of the entire deck, and that makes me a lot more comfortable. ### The Big Canadian Trip - May/June/July/August Duration: 90 days Distance: 1450 nautical miles 65 days at anchor I departed Seattle at the beginning of May, and returned at the start of August. This was one of the most memorable trips I've had in years because I got to explore areas I had not been to in a long time, or never been to before. The highlight of the trip was time in the Central Coast of British Columbia past Cape Caution in areas that were absolutely spectacular. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6315.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6336.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6337-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/0A78A0CB-78F5-4C7F-8D9D-24B908ACF5A4-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/41752cbb-2162-43de-9c53-ae1c1497d2de-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6386-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/d945bd47-cd79-46a1-8c9f-f50e9520d55a-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6492-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08386_Nik_DxO-1.jpg) Ganges, Mayne Island, and north to Desolation Sound The first stage of the trip was a stop in Ganges for some of the most spectacular northern lights I've ever seen. I reconnected with Fortitude and Equinox and enjoyed a dinghy trip to Mayne Island, and a stop at Jedediah Island Marine Park on the way north to Desolation Sound. We parted ways with Fortitude as they were headed to Alaska. Arriving in Desolation Sound in mid-May is always nice as there are very few other boats around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/1-DJI_0033_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/Land2DJI_0019_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/3-DJI_0016_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DJI_0025_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/bDJI_0023_DxO_DxO.jpg) Otter Island stern ties Otter Island is a nice little spot just before Prideaux Haven that I'd never tried before. Equinox and I stern tied in two different spots and spent a few days enjoying warm sun and beautiful views - pretty lucky for May! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6672-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6701-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6704-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08396_Nik_DxO-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6724-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08423_Nik_DxO-2.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6683-2.jpeg) Roscoe, Elworthy and Toba After a stop in at Cortes Bay, we headed over to a few other spots including Roscoe Bay, where I took an amazing photo of Aruna, and Elworthy Island, a new spot for both myself and Equinox. We spent 4 days or so enjoying that area, and decided to make a run up Toba Inlet and see if we could anchor overnight, or just make a day trip. The winds picked up to 30 knots and we quickly decided to abort and head to Carrington Bay. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6739.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6778.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08483_Nik_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6809.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6806.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6892.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6802.jpeg) Heriot Bay tacos, heading north through Johnstone Strait, and mechanical stuff It was the end of May, and Equinox had to head south. We had a nice meal at the Heriot Bay Inn on Quadra Island, and stocked up on groceries. I headed to Waiatt Bay near the Octopus Islands the next day. The longest trip of the entire year was from Waiatt Bay all the way to Mound Island in the Broughtons - 73.2 nautical miles and almost 10 hours underway. The tides worked out perfectly at all of the various spots along the way including Okisollo, Chatham Point, and up Johnstone Strait. Right around this time I started having major issues with my Honda outboard for the dinghy, which had been acting up since March. For the next 2 months, I would struggle with all sorts of issues, spend a ton of time cleaning and rebuilding carburetors, and many other things. Only once I was able to source parts later in August was I able to fix it properly. My Northern Lights 16Kw generator also started shutting down very intermittently. It took several weeks of troubleshooting to figure out that it was likely a bad relay. The relay eventually did not have any issues, but was being ejected from the socket by vibration. A zip tie was the ultimate fix. During this part of the trip I visited many spots in the Broughtons including Claydon Bay, the Muirhead Islands, Sutherland Bay, Blair Island Cove, Turnbull Cove, and Goat Island. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7033.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7014.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6934.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6929.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_6900.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7081.jpeg) Port McNeill, Allison Harbour, and an aborted attempt around Cape Caution I had been away from a dock for more than a month, so it was time to head to Port McNeill for groceries and spare parts I had ordered for the generator. I love the folks at North Island Marina in Port McNeill, and enjoyed my favorite pickle pizza at [Devil's Bath Brewing](https://devilsbathbrewing.ca/?ref=seabits.com). I poked my head out into Queen Charlotte Sound, and decided it was too messy to cross, and headed back south to Goat Island for a couple of days until the weather settled. After a 50NM day to Allison Harbor, I spent a couple of days waiting for a good window to round Cape Caution. Unfortunately my first attempt was not OK, and I got super sea sick (I get sick easily) which is a challenge when single handing. I turned around and anchored back in Allison Harbor and slept for almost 24 hours. A couple of days later, I was able to make my way around Cape Caution and anchored in Fry Pan Bay. I spent the next week in Fish Egg Inlet and places like Oyster Bay, then headed further north to Lewall Inlet. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7162.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08713_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08708_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08702_Nik_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08704_Nik_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08686_Nik_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08666_Nik_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08661_Nik_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7190.jpeg) Eucott Bay Hot Springs - my favorite anchorage of the year My absolute most favorite anchorage of 2024, and I'd say top 1 or 2 ever, was Eucott Bay Hot Springs. The pictures don't do it justice - surrounded on all sides by tall peaks, huge grassy fields coming down to the waters edge, an amazing hot springs, and a big river dumping fresh water into a very shallow bay made it paradise. I was there for 5 days through Canada Day and July 4th, and loved the warm water, bears roaming the shores, stunning views, and of course the hot springs. The only downside was snagging a big steel cable while retrieving my anchor, but I got it off pretty easily. Eucott Bay Hot Springs will remain one of the best anchorages I've ever been to, and I will definitely be going back. It does take some commitment to get there, as you need to head up Fisher Channel and then Dean Channel for about 40 nautical miles from Codville Lagoon. Dean Channel got rough on the way up with winds coming from various directions as the channel wound its way back and forth. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08880_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DJI_0020_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08883_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08804_DxO.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7200.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7246.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08866_DxO-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DSC08887_DxO-1.jpg) Roscoe Inlet My second favorite anchorage / area of the year is Roscoe Inlet. Stunning views everywhere with amazing rocky mountains, lush meadows coming right down to waters edge, bears everywhere, whales, and more. I chose to anchor in Boukind Bay as the head of Roscoe Inlet looked rough, and there were already several boats there. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7337.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7334.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7316.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7259.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7289.jpeg) Pruth Bay and the beautiful beaches I had been to Pruth Bay before many years ago, but wanted to stop on the way south to cross back around Cape Caution. I was blessed with bright sunny weather and very warm temperatures and spent a couple of days enjoying the beaches, the hikes, and the sand. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7543.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7535.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7436.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7380.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7498.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7453.jpeg) Port McNeill, Johnstone Strait, Waiatt Bay to Comox After crossing back south around Cape Caution, I waited for several days to try to cross Queen Charlotte Sound back to Port McNeill for more provisions. It was mid-July and it had been over 30 days since I had provisioned, and I was running low on a lot of things. I skipped Shearwater while up in Discovery Harbour and probably should have stopped in... I was anchored in Allison Harbour waiting out the winds which continued to be messy and 25-35 knots down Queen Charlotte Sound. Eventually, I moved to Blunden Harbour, which was only about 2.5 hours away, but it was a very exciting trip with 6' ocean swells and 4-6' waves on top of of them directly from astern. At one point, a pair of humpback whales surfaced right near the boat and traveled with me, perhaps watching over me as I rolled my way into Blunden Harbour. Aruna handled it just fine - she impressed me throughout the year at the weather she could handle. I made an early morning crossing to Port McNeill and was able to provision. I had been trying to find random and weird Canadian blend whisky for the last few months, and stocked up on some while there. I left Port McNeill south bound to Port Neville. About 2 hours of the day I was trapped in dense fog with orcas and other whales all around me. It was pretty surreal. From Port McNeill I chugged my way down to Waiatt Bay and connected Shawn on S/V Grace for a few days. From Waiatt Bay, I headed south to Henry Bay near Comox to reconnect with Tom on Equinox. A few beautiful sunsets later, I skipped over to Little Bull in Jedediah Island Marine Park, and then a long 47 nautical mile day south through Gabriola Pass into Ladysmith Harbour. A few days later, Tom and I reconnected, and headed to Maple Bay. I stopped in Sidney for a few days, and crossed back into the U.S. and to Friday Harbor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8081.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8013.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7709.jpeg) The final few stops on this trip included a very special birthday celebration in Friday Harbor for a few days, and then a stop in Port Ludlow before ending at Shilshole. A new Starlink was waiting to be installed, along with a lot of other spare parts and bits for things that needed to be fixed or improved, including the dreaded Honda outboard. ### Fall / Winter - Puget Sound, San Juans and Victoria After a couple of weeks in Seattle, in late August I departed for a few months and visited some Puget Sound locations before heading back north. Things were pretty messy at work which meant a lot of 12+ hour days working and not as much time to be able to move the boat as the days started getting shorter. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_7912.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8379.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8345.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8283.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8279.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8235.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8173.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8161.jpeg) Blake Island, night arrivals, rafting with Equinox, and Victoria After picking up Josh and the pups, we headed south to Gig Harbor, and then Quartermaster Harbor, one of our favorite places. A few days there, including some crazy thunderstorms with 40+ knot winds, we headed north, expecting to stop in Eagle Harbor or just back to Shilshole, but I noticed room at Blake Island. I was able to shoehorn all 54' of Aruna in near shore behind a small boat. We stayed for a few days and the dogs loved exploring. A quick trip to Liberty Bay to test out some systems, and then a jump to Port Ludlow. This was the first time that the dinghy engine started working reliably after months of work, and I was very happy. Another jump to Mackaye Harbor, and then off to Brentwood Bay on Vancouver Island. After a few days there, around the island to Causeway Marina for a couple of weeks due to work. Always love the views in Victoria's inner harbour. Reconnected with Tom on Equinox in Victim Island Cove and we had a great raft up for a day or two. Some additional side trips to Sidney, Henry Island, Blind Bay, Hunter Bay, Hope Island, and back south by the end of September for some work meetings. Unfortunately I got very sick and was out of commission for several weeks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8972.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8894.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8861.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8764.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8761.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8708.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8600.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_5229.jpeg) Eagle Harbor, Muse Bar, San Juans again In Mid-October, having recovered and done a couple of short trips with Josh and the pups, I headed north again. First stop was in Everett where I reconnected with Tom again. A few great restaurants and bars over a couple of days waiting out weather. Further north to La Conner, then Eagle Harbor on Cypress Island, and into Blind Bay to hide from some wind. Off to Friday Harbor, then Reid Harbor at anchor, then to Westcott Bay to hide from some big winds (again). A few days back in Canada at Oak Bay Marina, which is super cute, and connecting with the guys at BRNKL. Back into the San Juans to many of the usual spots all while maintaining a very busy work schedule. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9188.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9142.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9113.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9061.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_8974.jpeg) Friday Harbor, Deception Pass, Henry Island Back across to Mackaye Harbor and then down to La Conner to hide from weather again. Other spots in the San Juans including Henry Island, Friday Harbor, and the usual haunts. I also was able to replace my anchor chain, which had become almost unusable, hence the high amount of dock visits during this time. I just didn't want to chance it with the stormy season. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9270.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DJI_0010_DxO.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/DJI_0008_DxO.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9211.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9197.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9237.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9244.jpeg) Jones Island and Echo Bay near Sucia Island In late November I visited Echo Bay on Sucia Island and was the only boat anchored. The weather cooperated for a couple of days, and I headed south to another of my favorite places that I hadn't visited this year - Jones Island. The dock was already removed of course, but I found the usual spot to anchor, and enjoyed the island, again the only boat around. Back over to Blind Bay for a few work days, then off to Cap Sante in Anacortes for provisioning and to hide from wind. A few more trips to Hunter Bay, Friday Harbor, La Conner, and Cap Sante sprinkled in here to hide from winds and move around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9344.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9332.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9308.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9291.jpeg) The Swinomish Channel and La Conner La Conner became a great place to hide from some of the big storms and winds, and is pretty inexpensive for guest moorage. This time of year most of the spots I like in the San Juans are really uncomfortable in any of the southerlies, and Cap Sante is expensive and also exposed. La Conner is a great place to hide from storms. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9539.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9536.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9507.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9493.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2025/01/IMG_9389.jpeg) Christmas aboard Aruna Josh and the pups came up to Cap Sante in mid-December, and we've been out and about in the San Juans, La Conner, and elsewhere through the new year, dodging wind storms throughout. A wonderful Christmas and New Years aboard with lots of great food and company. All in all, a very busy year with great anchorages, awesome food, amazing people, and a fantastic boat. I look forward to an even more exciting 2025. Where did you go this year? Post your best anchorages or recommendations and pictures below! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 6 comments deregtd@deregtd January 03, 2025 Happy new year! Awesome stories and great post! We’ve made the decision in the last few weeks to send our boat to the PNW over next winter, so now you’re just making me more excited about exploring the NW for an entire 6-ish month period at a time instead of the weekending + one-short-summer-vacation we used to do in the days before starlink. Looking forward to hopefully meeting up with you at some point! mgfite98034@mgfite98034 January 03, 2025 Thanks for the very descriptive trip reports. I did not know about Eucott Bay Hot Springs. I hope to check it out sometime. Last Aug/Sept I crewed on a sailboat to/from and around Haida Gwaii. Highly recommended. It is as spectacular as everyone says, on many levels. I look forward to your posts as always. Fair winds, Mic s/v Sea Bear Cap Sante Marina, Anacortes bsaitz@bsaitz January 04, 2025 Amazing write-up, thanks for all the details and photos - thanks for sharing! Mike@Mike January 07, 2025 Wow, clearly you had a great year of cruising! We spent the bulk of the year lazily exploring the West coast of Vancouver Island, and really enjoyed it. Thanks for the tips on so many new places (to us) to explore further North. Hartley Gardner@Hartley January 10, 2025 Wow! A great year and some really nice pictures, Steve! 2025 should be even better – Happy New Year! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 January 11, 2025 deregtd: > Looking forward to hopefully meeting up with you at some point! Starlink has definitely allowed for longer cruising times for many folks. Looking forward to meeting at some point! mgfite98034: > Last Aug/Sept I crewed on a sailboat to/from and around Haida Gwaii. Highly recommended. It is as spectacular as everyone says, on many levels. I have been years ago, but would love to go back! Sounds like you had a great trip! I spend a lot of time in Cap Sante as well - one of my top places in the winter to provision. Mike: > We spent the bulk of the year lazily exploring the West coast of Vancouver Island, and really enjoyed it. I almost turned left when I got to Cape Caution and went down the West side of Vancouver Island with some friends, but decided to turn right instead! Glad you had a great time - I’ve always wanted to explore the West Side, and never have. Maybe next year! ### Aruna's internet setup URL: https://seabits.com/arunas-internet-setup/ Last updated: 2026-08-28T03:52:50.000Z --- Being aboard [Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/) full time means having excellent internet for work and play. I've fine tuned my system to something that works extremely well for remote work use no matter where I am. Reliable, redundant internet is always a primary goal on any boat I own. This is mainly due to my work which requires high quality Zoom and Teams video sessions for 8-10 hours a day. I discussed this in more detail in an article from 2021 titled [Working remotely from the boat](https://seabits.com/working-remotely-from-the-boat/) including specific applications like Zoom, Office 365, and some tips and tricks to get the most out of the setup. [Working remotely from the boatWorking remotely from the boat requires a good system with multiple connections and cellular plans, redundancy, and good WiFi.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w1200/2021/07/IMG_2959.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/working-remotely-from-the-boat/) The goals are similar for Aruna - high quality, redundant internet using multiple sources that is usable throughout the boat for work, navigation, and play. Here are the pieces that help me achieve that. # Router ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/br2-pro-real-02.jpg) Peplink BR2 Pro 5G A good router is key to a quality internet setup. I'm currently using the [Peplink BR2 Pro 5G](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-MAX-BR2-Pro-5G-Router%5Fp%5F116.htmlAffid=1?ref=seabits.com) router with excellent results. It has a great mix of LAN and WAN ports, a USB port for an additional WAN port, and two cellular radios. It has been rock solid in terms of performance and reliability. The router is mounted in a cabinet in the flybridge along with the Starlink power supplies and other related equipment. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/BR2-Black.png) Peplink BR2 Pro 5G details The cabinet itself is made of fiberglass, so I opted to not use big external marine antennas and just use the factory antennas for both cellular and WiFi. In the last 9 months of use, I've had really good results with those antennas, which is not surprising, as this is a configuration I've used myself many times before while testing, and setup for many customers who couldn't install antennas due to space or cable lengths. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/BR2-antennas.jpeg) Peplink BR2 Pro 5G antennas Not using big marine antennas surprises some folks, as those have been a recommendation for years in most setups. The biggest reason I've not put dedicated antennas in for cellular is because of the location of the router combined with the advent of Starlink. While having those antennas would definitely allow me to pull in signals in very poor conditions, I would not likely be trying to do that given that I have Starlink. In addition, the holes in the cabinet, grommets, cables and connectors, windage from the antennas, and requirements for spacing them away from other antennas add more complexity to the entire setup. This is a common choice in more recent customer installs as well. For WAN connections, I'm using the two on board ethernet ports for 2 of my Starlinks, and then a USB ethernet adapter plugged into the USB port for the 3rd Starlink. For LAN connections, I'm using one port from the BR2 to a switch in the lounge area inside the boat, and the other three are connected to various critical systems including my Maretron IPG100, HomeAssistant, and my SignalK linux machine. I have several networks including production, test, guest, and navigation, and leverage common features you can find on any decent router including DHCP restrictions and reservations, DNS entries for common systems, MAC address restrictions, bandwidth shaping and more. Having started my career in networking, I prefer to use as many features as possible to prevent people from doing stupid / bad things and making my network (or me) grumpy. # Access Points Because Aruna is a steel boat, it makes it particularly challenging for WiFi signals to reach different parts of the interior. The steel roof/deck structure between the primary living areas and the flybridge almost completely blocks the WiFi signals from the router mounted there. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/Pepwave-AP-One-AX.jpeg) Pepwave AP One AX access point As a result, I put a [Peplink AP One AX](https://onboardwireless.com/pepwave-ap-one-ax.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) access point in a cabinet in the lounge area that serves most of the devices inside of the boat. I am also using the built in access point on the router so that my Vesper Cortex base, which is installed in the flybridge, and a couple of outdoor cameras can connect to the network. It is also what our mobile devices switch to whenever we're outside. This does result in less performance for WiFi as WAN when I am using that feature, but that is generally when I am at a marina, in which case outdoor WiFi is already [polluted with everyone else's signal](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) and doesn't really matter as much. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/Peplink-AP-stats.png) Peplink access point statistics I'm not completely happy with the performance of the Peplink AP. Some devices don't work as well with it, and it requires a reboot every few days to keep it happy. I've had other customers with similar complaints. I've had to switch to other access points at times in very busy / noisy marinas. More on this in a future article. # Internet Sources ## Starlink Of course Starlink is part of my internet solution as it is for many boaters today. I use three different Starlink dishes for redundancy and testing. They include: - Generation 2 rectangular dish - Residential + Portability plan - [Flat High Performance dish](https://seabits.com/starlink-flat-high-performance/) \- Roam Unlimited plan - Generation 3 rectangular dish - Roam Unlimited plan ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/04/Speedtest-Both.png) Using three Starlinks might seem a bit excessive, but I don't use them all the time. Underway I use the Flat High Performance dish as it is the best suited for movement. While at anchor, I will use either the generation 2 or generation 3 as they use the least amount of power. While on dock power, I use all three most of the time, because, why not? (ok so maybe I do use them a lot of the time!) When I'm in important meetings at anchor, I tend to use two of them for redundancy and overall bandwidth increase, especially on the upload side, which is what is used to send my video out to whatever remote meeting I am in. I manage all three Starlinks using Home Assistant and smart outlet plugs. This allows me to turn on/off combinations of them in different scenarios and save more power than the built-in sleep functionality. Definitely a subject for a future article. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/Starlink-dishes-on-arch.jpeg) Starlink Gen 3 (left) and High Performance (right) on Aruna's arch The Residential + Portability plan with the gen2 dish is a great option to have. This is one of the early plans that now allows you to change your address to wherever you are, and has higher priority speeds than the normal Roam plans. I will often update my address to somewhere nearby wherever I am to ensure I have this dish at the highest speeds. There are plenty of times that the standard Roam plan performs very poorly due to what I assume is other Starlink users nearby using lots of the available capacity. Overall, Starlink continues to be a critical part of staying connected while on the water, even with all of the uncertainty around plans, near-shore and offshore use, and the like. You can learn more about how to configure Peplink with Starlink in my article below. [Using Starlink with PeplinkHaving a Peplink router with a cellular modem paired with Starlink is essential for reliable connectivity aboard the boat.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/icon/SeaBits-icon-1.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/thumbnail/All-the-connections-1.png)](https://seabits.com/using-starlink-with-peplink/) ## Cellular Cellular still plays a big role in my internet setup, which surprises people sometimes. The main reason I keep it around is redundancy - Starlink is not guaranteed to work all of the time, and in fact, has had outages several times in the last year, just like any other internet provider. Having cellular gives me a backup when Starlink is down so I can continue work and stay connected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/Cloudflare-speedtest-gen2.png) Starlink speed and performance test - note the limited upload bandwidth The other big reason I use cellular is upload speeds and packet loss. Video apps like Teams and Zoom use a ton of upload bandwidth to send your video out to other folks in the meeting. Starlink has a pretty small upload capacity, and at times it can suffer from some pretty high packet loss and latency. Starlink on average has about 10Mbps of upload capacity (on a good day), while most cellular connections are in the 50-100Mbps range where I cruise. This is a significant increase if you are in a more populated area where cellular makes sense. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/Cloudflare-speedtest-TMobile.png) T-Mobile cellular performance test - notice the upload and overall performance stats I still firmly believe at least a single cellular connection is essential to anyone who has critical connectivity requirements. Not only does it perform better in certain situations, but in the event of a Starlink outage, it is your backup connection. ## Need help with your internet? Chat with me one on one to improve your setup or build one from scratch. [Contact Me](https://seabits.com/consulting/) ## WiFi as WAN This is always a source of internet that I like to have when using a Peplink product. You can read more about how this works in a dedicated article I wrote on [WiFi as WAN](https://seabits.com/wifi-as-wan/). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/WiFi-as-WAN.png) List of available WiFi networks I use this feature when I am at a dock with quality WiFi and want to augment my internet connection. It works very well and provides another way to ensure I have a quality connection. In many cases, it is a backup connection that can swing into action if Starlink or cellular are unavailable. In some rare cases, the latency is even better than Starlink, and I might even use it as the primary connection while in video meetings, but that doesn't always happen. [WiFi as WANUsing a remote WiFi network as a source of internet on your boat is useful, but know the limitations of the devices and features available to you.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w1200/2023/01/WiFi-networks.png)](https://seabits.com/wifi-as-wan/) ## Simplified Diagram ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/Aruna-Network.jpg) Above is a simplified diagram of the entire setup. Red are internet sources, blue are internal networks. You can see the seven (overkill maybe? 😄) different internet sources including 3x Starlinks, 2x cellular, and 2x WiFi as WAN. There are also two WiFi access points - one outside on the BR2 Pro 5G itself, and one in the AP One AX in the lounge, plus wired ports at the BR2 Pro 5G and a switch in the lounge. # Leveraging Connections Having all of these internet connections is nice, but you need something to take advantage of them, and for me that is one of the main reasons I use Peplink equipment. You can switch between the various connections manually when something changes, but that would require that you monitor them frequently. Trying to use two connections at once without a good set of features is also problematic. Peplink has two very similar features that I use to help with this. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/SFC.png) Peplink SpeedFusion Connect SpeedFusion Connect is the most user friendly and provides a way to combine multiple internet connections for redundancy and performance. You can select your entire network, a list of machines, or just specific types of traffic, so it gives you a lot of control over how much of your internet connections you use. This can be important as you may not want everything (think streaming traffic or photo backups, etc.) to use your redundant connections as it might bump into a data cap, or just slow more critical traffic down. The other feature is to use a VPN to a [FusionHub](https://www.peplink.com/services/software/virtual-appliance-fusionhub-solo/?ref=seabits.com) in the cloud. This is essentially the same as SpeedFusion Connect, but requires that you own and run your own FusionHub, and requires a bit more manual configuration. SpeedFusion Connect is a packaged and simplified version of this. I use this version is that it gives me more direct control over certain things, and allows for some additional features for larger downloads and other things I tend to do. There is quite a bit more to SpeedFusion / PepVPN than just combining internet sources. It can apply logic to the type of connection and its performance and choose to move things around to ensure you have the best experience. There are balancing algorithms that help with latency, congestion, and many other aspects that you can fine tune depending on whether you are playing games, using video applications, streaming, or anything else. You can prioritize specific types of traffic or systems, set aside bandwidth for critical applications, and much more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/SFC-download.png) SpeedFusion Connect download test with 7 connections ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/SFC-upload.png) SpeedFusion Connect upload test with 7 connections You can see from the test results above that there are specific internet sources that are performing better than others. To determine this, you can look at the Rx (recieve/download) and Tx (transmit/upload) columns to determine overall performance or throughput, and the Loss rate (packet loss) and Latency items to determine quality. In the download test, the cellular and WiFi as WAN connections are actually outperforming Starlink. In the upload test, everything is a bit of a mess with most of the Starlink and WiFi as WAN connections having tons of packet loss, the cellular connections having high latency, and one Starlink - the gen3 - being pretty OK. SpeedFusion Connect doesn't cost that much - I paid $80 for 2 terabytes of data, which will probably last me 6-9 months. Hosting your own FusionHub will cost a bit more, depending on the configuration you use. Either one is a critical piece in enabling redundant and high quality internet connectivity from a boat, and so far, Peplink has the best features for the price with SpeedFusion Connect. # Results ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/11/usage.png) My monthly internet usage Not unexpectedly, all of this together has provided a really nice system that has provided high levels of redundancy and reliability while allowing me to stay connected no matter where I am. I have been very impressed with the Peplink BR2 Pro 5G router in particular. I've tested tons of routers over the years, and they all have some annoying problem or reliability issue, and so far, the BR2 has been more reliable than any Peplink product I've tested to date. There are some improvements to be made with the access point situation, but overall this setup has made me happy, and with minor tweaks, will likely continue to do so. What are you using for your setup? Send me a note or jump into the comments below and let me know! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 18 comments bsaitz@bsaitz November 10, 2024 Super interesting… and I don’t even live aboard! I’m now diving deep into Unifi - would that work on a boat? Keep up the journaling, really enjoyable Fair seas… Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 November 10, 2024 UniFi equipment is fantastic. I actually manage some moderate-to-large deployments of UniFi equipment for marinas, and would not use anything else for those harsh environments. As fast as this tech updates, it’s not worth investing in the bigger vendors since replacing it every 2-3 years is possible with the cheaper UniFi equipment. UniFi aboard is very popular. I actually use their access points on Aruna as well when the Peplink ones start misbehaving. Their management software and compatibility of their access points is very, very good. Everything connects fine and works very well. The challenge is at the router side. Their products are built for normal land-based internet connections so they lack a lot of the features around cellular connections and optimizing things at that level. They could definitely handle multiple Starlink connections, but bonding and VPNs would be dealt with differently and likely not as gracefully. You could use their access points, like I do, and Peplink for the router part. Or you could use UniFi’s router/dream machine/etc. “behind” the Peplink so you get all of the features of their router, and let the Peplink do the internet connections. Would use more power of course. jgreen@jgreen November 11, 2024 I too am having issues with Peplink BR2 and AP One AX. Any suggestions? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 November 11, 2024 Not without more information. I’m not having any issues with my BR2, just the AP One AX in terms of device compatibility and performance. deregtd@deregtd↩ #4 November 11, 2024 After all the issues I used to have with an older AP One, I switched for \~14 months to one of the simple Unifi POE WAPs, but I was having really bad issues requiring me to reboot it every couple weeks, and then later on every few days and it culminated into having to reboot it every few hours to keep connectivity up, at which point I upgraded to an AP One AX. I’ve had some issues with 2.4G devices randomly dropping out with the AP One AX, especially the Vesper Cortex. I’ve set my BR2 Pro and AP One AX up to reboot every week at 4am Sunday morning. That’s virtually eliminated problems with my AP One AX. What kind of compatibility issues are you seeing? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #9 November 11, 2024 deregtd: > What kind of compatibility issues are you seeing? The Vesper Cortex is one of my problems and quite irritating. In addition, I’ve seen other devices such as Sonos, Blusound, various IoT devices and the like have issues with 2.4Ghz. I have also seen significant performance issues that require constant reboots, and in “noisy” WiFi environments, get positively unusable no matter how many reboots you perform. Testing side-by-side, with differing and similar channels, using UniFi and several other APs, I see none of those issues. Nevertheless, I still use the AP One AX a lot because of its simple management platform and low power use… deregtd@deregtd↩ #10 November 11, 2024 FWIW, I first tried only rebooting the AP One AX regularly, and still had problems. However, when I rebooted both it and the AP Controller (BR2) at the same time, that significantly mitigated the problems. YMMV, of course, and correlation is not causation… Separately, it’s funny how much we’ve converged on a similar setup in many ways – BR2 Pro, and I used 3 starlinks (2 gen 2s and one highpo flat) for a while before downgrading to just 2 (highpo and one gen2) this past season because I wasn’t getting much benefit out of the 3rd, but I keep it hooked up and ready to turn on as a hot spare. I’m still using 3x cellular connections via 3 Peplink Mobility 40G Marine antennas, and I’m intrigued that you have dropped down to the tiny local antennas. Has coverage in the islands gotten good enough that you don’t need crazy boosters anymore, or is it really just a reflection how much you happily rely on starlink as your main internet now? I can’t remember the last time I used wifi as wan with better results than the rest of my setup, so doing it over again I definitely wouldn’t bother with the giant wifi antennas, but this basic setup was all built up in 2021 before starlink, and I hadn’t thought about what it would look like to do it all over from scratch, so you have me thinking now… Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #11 November 11, 2024 I think the issues I’m seeing both with my AP One AX’s and other customers are specific to the AP itself, not necessarily the connection to the router or anything the controller software is doing. I just think they’re not as robust or supported APs as UniFi or other solutions. deregtd: > Has coverage in the islands gotten good enough that you don’t need crazy boosters anymore, or is it really just a reflection how much you happily rely on starlink as your main internet now? I spend about 50% of my time in Canada and use Starlink + Google Fi depending on where I am. The rest of the time in the US I’m anywhere between Olympia and the San Juan Islands, and cellular has become extremely reliable. Having the bigger marine antennas would help, but as I mentioned in the story, it’s just not worth the extra cost/space of cabling and antennas. I would say 80% of the time I use Starlink on average. In the remote locations in Canada that I spend a lot of time in, that would go up to 100%. So yes, partly this is because of what Starlink has brought. But cellular has still gotten better, and given that my router is upstairs, with little in its way, the factory antennas work pretty well. I will likely throw one of the bigger antennas up for testing, but I don’t expect huge gains across the board. deregtd@deregtd↩ #12 November 11, 2024 Yeah but it’s interesting how necessity (hassle) has led you to the simpler solution that’s working great for you. I’m very interested to see how your results fare if you play with the big antennas. Especially in rural new england (like out in Maine east of Portland), we’ve definitely needed the extenders, but cellular coverage has expanded so much that it wouldn’t be super surprising to me if it’s good enough in 95% of places that you can just rely on starlink the rest of the time and be fine… I already have these giant antennas on top that I’ll keep using for now, but if we ever get around to boat swapping, I’ll have to strongly consider simplifying my setup like you have… Hartley Gardner@Hartley November 11, 2024 Hi Steve - Happy to see Aruna is working out for you! I feel like such a caveman with my collection of antiques Currently running the BR1 mini LTEA with an older AP1-RUG (the olde one with three antennas) and a Mobility 22\. This setup worked a charm last year from the Bahamas through Penobscot Bay with only a few gaps up in Maine. Speeds were more than adequate for us - but we’re not working on board! I’m building an upgrade this winter whilst hanging around in FL getting two new knees (never get old - it isn’t any fun) with a BR1 Pro Cat20 (paid thru 6/27!) and a Mobility 42, as it has the requisite 4X4 cell antennas and also better performance on Band 71, which would have helped Down East. I’m also changing the installation to cut out about 10 feet of coax - the extra coax & connectors can’t be helping much. On the olde AP1 RUG, I’ve tried to spread the coverage around the boat by running the antennas out - the AP is at the Nav station in the salon, I wired one back aft in the stateroom (nameless Chinese puck) and one up top on the coachroof (MobileMark) at the front of the cockpit. Seems to work, but I haven’t really explored to see how far off the boat it gets. One question I could never get answered was whether all three antennas are dual-band, or if Peplink split them up. bsaitz@bsaitz↩ #4 November 11, 2024 yeah, i can see that… the router part. elliott bay us putting in fiber and using unifi! i guess PoE too much of a draw on the boat? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 November 11, 2024 Hartley: > One question I could never get answered was whether all three antennas are dual-band, or if Peplink split them up. I believe that at least one of them is single band, but I was never able to confirm this either. I have both the older version and newer version of the Rugged AP, and prefer them because of their reliability and power, especially at 2.4Ghz, but they lag behind in terms of the newest WiFi standards. That ends up causing performance issues for some of the more modern devices I have. bsaitz: > i guess PoE too much of a draw on the boat? It would really depend on your boat, battery bank, and general power usage trends. You can run UniFi AP’s from a PoE switch, or use injectors as I’ve discussed before in older articles. A PoE switch would either require AC power, or use DC voltage to convert things to PoE, similar to the injector. All of them would have some loss since you’d be likely converting from 12/24v to 48-56v for PoE. The additional challenge is running UniFi’s management software, which would be required in most cases with any access point. UniFi requires that software at least to set things up, but you really would want to run it continuously for updates, changes, etc. That software can be run on a linux machine, although it is not the primary supported method. They prefer you use their various platforms to run it which could include a router or a dedicated device (CloudKey, etc.) to do so. Both would require more power (CloudKey’s use PoE) which adds to the overall power budget. bsaitz@bsaitz↩ #16 November 11, 2024 got it, thanks for all the replies Adam Morris@SVConfianza November 12, 2024 Very nice to have you back! We all appreciate your thorough approach to content. I too have been having a lot of issues with my AP One Ax. After documenting my tests with and without the AP on Clever Mariner (and feeling very smug about my setup), I have had to do more tinkering with the AP than anything else in my setup. The worst has been the AP inexplicably dropping off the mesh in a wireless mesh setup. This seems to happen if the AP loses power for some reason. The only way to solve it has been to be to reconnect the AP to wired LAN and make my br1 pro 5g re-sync the AP config. I realize running a wireless mesh setup is far from ideal, but it’s advertised to work, and I’m pretty disappointed. Some nights when I’m ready to throw the AP overboard, I am reminded that I have absolutely no issues running a wireless mesh with a non-fancy, non-enterprise tp-link deco system at our land home. Land home is set up for AirBNB, the house is historic from 1780, and running cables is…challenging. This is my second big hiccup in working with Peplink products. My initial setup was built around the Max Transit Cat 18\. And I ran into endless issues with the processor being severely underpowered to handle their advertised features. If we had a few folks on the boat trying to use Speedfusion, the processor was always pegged at 100%, and performance of all devices suffered mightily. I’m 85% convinced that I should stop relying on the BR1 Pro 5G to handle my cellular modem, router, and bonding/smooting all in one. There’s a few other bonding solutions that seem interesting now, and we seem to have to upgrade cellular modem tech every few years anyway. Maybe the solution is going SaaS for bonding/smoothing, married to an openwrt router, and a separate cellular modem (that can be more cost effectively be upgraded)? Kevin McLaughlin@WallaceGrommet November 12, 2024 Hey, no mention of the upcoming, rumored, Kuiper satellite internet roll out ! Worthy competitor or also-ran? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #18 November 14, 2024 SVConfianza: > I realize running a wireless mesh setup is far from ideal, but it’s advertised to work, and I’m pretty disappointed. Mesh is hard to get right, surprisingly. A lot of companies have struggled with it, and in the last few years, most have finally gotten it right. I would not expect Peplink’s version to be that robust. I’ve tested it a few times, and compared to UniFi, Netgear, and others, it has its challenges. SVConfianza: > Max Transit Cat 18\. And I ran into endless issues with the processor being severely underpowered This was a problem in all the later versions of the Transit line. It caused performance issues all across the board including what you saw. I had many, many customers with ongoing issues, and I had my own challenges as well. The newer BR series is a much faster processor and I don’t see any of the same issues, but the damage was done with Peplink leaving that older processor in their Transit line for too long. SVConfianza: > Maybe the solution is going SaaS for bonding/smoothing, married to an openwrt router, and a separate cellular modem (that can be more cost effectively be upgraded)? I have been testing some software bonding solutions that are promising, but many of them still require multiple UIs or pieces put together to make them work right. I’m hoping to find a combo that might work well. mgfite98034@mgfite98034 November 17, 2024 It’s great to see you posting again. I always appreciate your articles. \-Mic Mike@Mike November 24, 2024 Hi Steve, great post. I always learn a lot from your explorations! You might want to tag this post as “Article Discussions” too so it shows up in that category when folks get to seabits via the link from your email with the article. Took me a bit of effort to find this discussion thread. ### Meet Aruna! URL: https://seabits.com/meet-aruna/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:16:54.000Z --- Please welcome the newest addition to our family - [Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/), a 2003 Kristen Yachts steel pilot house trawler. She joined our family on December 30th, 2023, a day before my 50th birthday. 💡 As with all of my other boats, I have a page with even more details that will always be updated with newer pictures, videos, and projects over time. You can find that below and in the main navigation on the website. [M/V ArunaAruna is a 2003 Kristen Yachts 50 Pilot House steel trawler that became part of our family in December of 2023\. ⚠️I am still verifying some of this info and getting updated pictures and videos. Thanks for your patience! Aruna is a steel trawler hull, #3 built by Kristen Yachts![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w1200/2023/12/IMG_5228.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/aruna/) ## Quick Specs Builder: Kristen Yachts of British Columbia, Canada Designer: [Greg Marshall](https://www.gregmarshalldesign.com/?ref=seabits.com) LOA: 54' LWL: 46' Beam: 15' 9" Draft: 5' 9" Weight: 85,000 pounds / 42.5 tons Single Isuzu 320HP keel-cooled engine with 2-1/2" shaft and 4 blade prop Cruise speed: 7.5 knots @ 4 gallons per hour 16kW Northern Lights generator with hydraulic PTO Keypower get-home hydraulic motor with dedicated 1-1/4" drive shaft and Maxi feathering propeller Keypower stabilizers Keypower 25HP bow and stern thrusters Fuel: 1000 gallons in 4 tanks Water: 300 gallons Waste: 90 gallons ## Why a trawler? In 2018 after over 20 years of sailing, I decided to go back to power, and wanted to find a trawler that had good fuel economy. [Sailing towards power...I have decided to move to a power boat after years of sailing. The decision was a hard one, but also an exciting one as it will enable more projects and testing on a bigger platform.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w1200/2016/07/03-Eagle-to-Olympia-Grace-sailing-1.jpg)](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/) We looked at a bunch of different models including DeFever 44/49's, Ocean Alexander, and others. Then we chose an Ocean Alexander 420 ([Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/)) which wasn't really a true trawler - more of a fast trawler. And even after that, I fell in love with [Kaos](https://seabits.com/kaos/), a Symbol 55 pilot house that wasn't really a true trawler either. I've done about 2500 nautical miles a year for the last 5 years, and that is increasing. I want a fuel efficient, full displacement trawler that can help make those miles cost effective and comfortable while both underway and at anchor. Aruna is that boat - we weren't looking for a new one having only bought Kaos 2 years prior, but when I saw her, I knew it was a once in a lifetime opportunity. ## Why Steel? I grew up on a farm and know how to weld relatively well. I've been around mechanical and electrical things all my life, including really big machinery, tractors, and the like. I have had a dream of having a steel boat - I thought I would eventually go the route of a reclaimed fishing trawler that I would upgrade and modify for recreational use, and much later in my lifetime. ![man welding iron](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1530312435372-45ec7d3fe7c7?crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&fit=max&fm=jpg&ixid=M3wxMTc3M3wwfDF8c2VhcmNofDJ8fHdlbGR8ZW58MHx8fHwxNzAzODY5NDc2fDA&ixlib=rb-4.0.3&q=80&w=2000) Photo by [Maxime Agnelli](https://unsplash.com/@maxa?ref=seabits.com) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) There are a few reasons I've wanted a steel boat. First, my ability to repair and maintain it will be much better than with fiberglass. Not only am I terrible at anything with fiberglass, but I am deathly allergic to it. Even rubbing my bare arm against the interior unfinished side of a locker ends up with a full rash and hives. Second, I wanted the weight and displacement that comes with a steel boat. You can get this with fiberglass boats by using ballast and other means, but with steel you sort of get this by default. Finally, I wanted the safety of a full displacement, full keel, steel boat because of where I cruise. We have tons of debris and logs year round, and I've hit many things while underway. Thankfully none have done any major damage, but I would like the peace of mind of having a bit more protection here. ## Things I love about Aruna ### Build Quality & Serviceability Everywhere I look, I find more and more that I love about the build quality of Aruna. From the high end woodworking to the fishing boat-like implementation of the keel coolers, she's built to last and with thought around expansion and maintenance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4434-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4518.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4414.jpeg) Examples of thoughtful wiring panels and clearly documented setups There are really big cable pathways, and easy access to almost everything. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4579.jpeg) Expansion AC outlets are everywhere I've found at least 10 AC outlets that are in places for expansion, but unused at this time. This particular one is above the pilot house in a void behind all of the radios and overhead instruments. I love how someone thought ahead of time about expansion and adding equipment, and while access was likely easier, simply added an outlet here for the future. It's exactly how I would build a boat myself. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4580.jpeg) Hatch details There are a lot of small things that all add up, like hatches. Every edge is routed and the edges smoothed and turned down so that there are no sharp edges, and everything fits very easily and snug with no binding. That might seem like an odd thing to notice, but it is one of many that show the craftsmanship and thought put into things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4583.jpeg) Water works room Serviceability was definitely something they thought about when building Aruna. Access to everything is pretty easy - headliners are secured with industrial outdoor velcro, and can be easily removed to access things. There are also awesome spots like the water works room that contains the hot water heater, expansion tank, all of the various pumps for fresh and sea water, vacuflush bits, valves for just about anything you can think of, and more. All easily accessible and in one place so you can work on things without running around. ### Lounge and pilot house with forward sloped windows ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_3433-2.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_3399.jpeg) The layout of the pilot house with the salon (we're calling it lounge) is a favorite part of the boat for me. I love how people could be hanging out in the lounge while underway and essentially be in or adjacent to the pilot house, and it's not a small settee area, it's a great place for everyone to hang out. We need to add a high/low table in the middle of the seating area, but that's pretty easy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4509.jpeg) Pilot house looking forward I also love the layout of the pilot house itself and the forward sloped windows, which I think makes a trawler look super bad ass, besides being more functional. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4537-2.jpeg) View from the lounge with my desk There is also a built in, beautiful desk that I'm actually using right now to write this article. It has a phenomenal view right out the side of the boat. ### Walkways and Windows ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_3456.jpeg) Since I'm out on the water a large part of the year, and much of it single handing, having a safe way to manage the boat outside is key. Aruna has a wonderful side decks that are super safe with overhangs to keep the rain off of the windows (pet peeve). Speaking of windows - all of them are flush with the boat surface, which I love the look of, but it also makes it easy to clean. And, they are dual pane windows, which is rare to see in any boat, even modern ones, and will cut down on condensation and temp issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4578.jpeg) Dual pane windows ### Birds eye maple ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4554.jpeg) View from pilot house back astern I seem to be a rarity in the boating world as I prefer lighter woods over the traditional teak look. The birds eye maple used on Aruna was one of the first things I fell in love with when I first saw her. Not only is it lighter, but the level of craftsmanship is higher than most boats. You can tell that someone spent a lot of time thinking about every aspect of the build and put a lot of time and effort into it. ### Single keel cooled engine with get home hydraulics ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_4133.jpeg) Bottom of Aruna with keel cooler loop on hull I was actually OK with having a dual engine trawler as long as the fuel economy and engine size was reasonable. Having two engines gives you redundancy, and usually with two engines on a trawler that size, they're naturally aspirated, simpler versions of some of the larger engines, which means a lot more longevity. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4569.jpeg) Aruna has a slightly different config with a single 320HP Isuzu continuous duty industrial engine married to a 2-1/2" shaft with a 4-blade propeller. Isuzu aren't as common in the US in boats as they are in Canada, and [Klassen Diesel](https://klassendiesel.com/?ref=seabits.com) did the conversion and installation of the engine, and are still around to provide support. The engine has a much longer oil change cycle (500 hours), and is cooled by two large keel cooled loops on the hull, which apparently is over-designed for the amount it needs. The exhaust is still wet / raw water, and goes out a small exit on the stern. Raw water is used to cool the hydraulic system and oil, but touches nothing else other than the exit through the exhaust. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_4138.jpeg) Get home shaft and prop are to the starboard side In addition, there is a hydraulic system that can be run off of the generator that in the event of a main engine failure, you can use with a dedicated 1-1/4" shaft and Maxi feathering prop to get home. During sea trials we clocked 4 knots while using this, which is pretty impressive given the weight of the boat. ### Hydraulics for lots of things The main engine has a PTO pump that runs all of the hydraulics, but you can also run them all from the 16kW Northern Lights generator. I love that redundancy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_4099.jpeg) Keypower get home control in foreground, Keypower stabilizer control screen behind Besides the get-home hydraulic pump and shaft, the Keypower bow and stern thrusters as well as the Keypower stabilizers are all hydraulic running off of the same central system. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4560.jpeg) The Maxwell 3500 windlass is also hydraulic, which I have wanted for a very, very long time. Given how much I anchor, I have always wanted to have a hydraulic windlass as they seem far more efficient and longer lasting with the design. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4557-1.jpeg) Finally, and this was not on my must-have list, but I'm already liking it, the Steelhead SM1500R davit is also hydraulic. It is nearly silent which is awesome compared to all of the previous electric ones I've had. Additionally, the Steelhead has full control for all movement axes which means a lot more safety for me given that I single hand almost always, and won't have to muscle things on/off the boat. ### Minimal through hulls I was pleasantly surprised with the lack of through hulls and the design around managing them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/through-hulls.png) There are two redundant intakes into a manifold distribution system for raw water. These supply the generator for cooling/exhaust, and the main engine for cooling only the hydraulics and oil, watermaker raw water supply, plus they supply raw water for washdown purposes around the boat. These intakes have electric valves that you can control from the helm which I consider to be needlessly complex, and I plan on simplifying them. The intakes themselves don't have any sort of grating on the outside of the hull, which is a different approach - a "salt shaker" or slot sort of setup is more normal, so that could be an issue for sucking in seaweed or jellyfish. However, I had a lot of issues with the salt shaker style intakes over the years clogging with jellyfish at times during the year, so maybe this will be better. ### Owners Cabin ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_3412.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_3418.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_3540.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_3544.jpeg) Owners cabin and desk The owners cabin is a delight with very high ceilings, plenty of storage, a beautiful wood wall headboard, and a big built in desk area. These pictures are from survey, and aren't the bedding we are using, but you get the idea behind the layout. The bed is accessible from all sides without any boat yoga, and is a nice height that does not require pole vaulting to get into. The stairway to the owners cabin is separate from the other berth, which is nice for privacy. ## Areas of Investigation These are areas that I think need to be reviewed or improved or just figure out whether I like them or not. ### Solar Panels ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4543.jpeg) Bullfrog 11.5' dinghy on upper deck These appear to have been put on by the previous owner and were poorly wired, had cheap solar controllers with incorrectly set up charging profiles, and a host of other issues. I already replaced the solar controllers with Victron MPPT versions and set the correct charging profiles so I don't continue to damage my batteries, but the wiring is a mess with some exposed connections, hanging all over the place on the rails, and generally just poorly done. In addition, some of the panels are covering storage areas and a hatch which I might actually want to use, and two that get shaded by the davit. I'm considering removing a few of the panels and replacing the remaining ones with bigger panels to simplify things. Right now there are 8x 100W panels from 4 different manufacturers and 2 or 3 different sizes. ### Bullfrog dinghy ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4555.jpeg) I love the utility of the bullfrog dinghy, but I'm not completely sold on it overall. It's very rugged and easy to use, but it takes some getting used to in terms of curb appeal. I'm also curious how she will perform with the 30HP Honda engine. Bullfrog list that as the maximum HP for this model, and it seems to have a lower overall weight capacity than previous sized dinghies I've had. I do like how easy it is to work on, the big fuel capacity, and the aluminum hull - I beach my dinghies a lot, and this will be nice. ### Cork floor and countertops ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4564.jpeg) I have had cork floors in a beach house and really like the durability, but I am not a fan of the color of the floors in Aruna. In combination with replacing countertops and potentially some work with the headliners, I'd like to see the floor replaced with something lighter colored - probably still cork, but maybe a different pattern, etc. This flooring is everywhere throughout the boat, so it will be a moderate project to replace. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4567.jpeg) Counter tops The counter tops throughout the boat are all some sort of Formica or similar, and the pattern doesn't seem to match the rest of the boat. I'm not a fan of the color or pattern, so this is something I'd like to change. ### Outside storage / access There is almost zero storage outside on the main deck. There are a few hangers in places, but that's about it. Nowhere to put lines, anchor bridle, hoses, or fenders. I am thinking I'll need to add some sort of storage box or system on the port side walkway where it ends on the asymmetric side. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4568.jpeg) In addition, there is no way to access the lazarette from outside. You have to go into the galley and use the hatch right inside that goes down into the engine room. Then back through a door into the lazarette. I'm contemplating adding a hatch in the cockpit somewhere. ## Wrap Up ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2024/01/IMG_4455.jpeg) I am beyond excited that [Aruna](https://seabits.com/aruna/) has joined our family. After having dreamt of a steel trawler for years and years, thinking that I would only ever get there if a miracle or happenstance occurred, it really seems like a dream come true. Aruna is not only a steel trawler, but she has excellent systems with lots of redundancies that I would have added myself, is built like a fishing trawler in terms of construction choices, but has a very warm feel inside. I can't wait to share more about her in upcoming walk-throughs and videos, as well as the projects and upgrades that you know I'll be working on! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 14 comments mgfite98034@mgfite98034 January 13, 2024 Congrats!! I’m really looking forward to hearing about her electrical/electronic systems and related upgrade projects. (with lots of pics! ) Andre\_Langevin@Andre\_Langevin January 13, 2024 Congrats for your new metal boat I’m sure you will enjoy the steel hull. If you need any advice for steel maintenance I build a 47 steel sailboat (stainless deck and infrastructure) in 2008 and so far no rust at all. I did a lot of research though on paint and I learned a lot from a friend who’s a NACE paint inspector. I’ll be glad to help because your previous articles on internet at sea helped me so much. All the best ! Helmsman@Helmsman January 13, 2024 Looks like a great boat! It will be a lot of fun hearing about the changes you make to it as time goes on. Congratulations, good luck with her, and thank you for the update. Wdeertz@Wdeertz January 14, 2024 Congrats, nice looking boat. My current boat came with the same bullfrog tender/30hp motor combo. I really liked the durability and stability but the weight to hp ratio was too high. The 30hp motor was able to get on plane with 1-2 people but 3 or more it just didn’t have the oomph to get up on plane. I replaced with a traditional inflatable w/60hp that can plane with 4 or 5 people. Rick@Rick.Southard January 14, 2024 Looking at Aruna anchored in Liberty Bay this morning. She is a fine looking trawler! This coming from a fellow trawler owner. I wish you many years of calm seas and fair winds! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 January 14, 2024 mgfite98034: > I’m really looking forward to hearing about her electrical/electronic systems and related upgrade projects. (with lots of pics! ) There will be lots of projects and lots of pictures don’t worry! Andre\_Langevin: > If you need any advice for steel maintenance I build a 47 steel sailboat (stainless deck and infrastructure) in 2008 and so far no rust at all. I did a lot of research though on paint and I learned a lot from a friend who’s a NACE paint inspector. I’ll be glad to help because your previous articles on internet at sea helped me so much. Thank you so much! This is my first steel boat, so I may take you up on that at some point. I have some small areas of rust that need attention, but it’s mostly exterior and in places that make sense as they’re hard to maintain. Wdeertz: > My current boat came with the same bullfrog tender/30hp motor combo. I really liked the durability and stability but the weight to hp ratio was too high. The 30hp motor was able to get on plane with 1-2 people but 3 or more it just didn’t have the oomph to get up on plane. I replaced with a traditional inflatable w/60hp that can plane with 4 or 5 people. This is exactly what I was wondering. 90% of the time it will be just me, and about 5% of the rest of the time it will be 2 of us, and then the last 5% it will be more people, so I am thinking it will work fine for me for now. It’s quite a tank - seems like it could handle just about anything! And, I go ashore a lot on really bad beaches, and missed my Highfield dinghy, which I had two boats ago, and had the aluminum bottom that I just drug up on shore. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 January 14, 2024 Rick.Southard: > Looking at Aruna anchored in Liberty Bay this morning. She is a fine looking trawler! This coming from a fellow trawler owner. Thank you! I am in Liberty Bay - testing out systems and playing with the dinghy. [![IMG_4613](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/753004a42856987f76b6d0205336940ee5c28d5a.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/753004a42856987f76b6d0205336940ee5c28d5a.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "IMG_4613") bsaitz@bsaitz January 14, 2024 Awesome write-up - can’t wait for more deep dives on the journey and upgrades! I’m in EBM, let me know if you ever need an extra set of hands Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 January 14, 2024 bsaitz: > I’m in EBM, let me know if you ever need an extra set of hands Thanks for the offer! I moved to Shilshole back in October of 2023! bsaitz@bsaitz↩ #11 January 14, 2024 Ballard isnt far and it would be a mini apprenticeship Don Bernard@Don\_Bernard January 15, 2024 Congratulations Steve! What a beautiful ship! Hope to run into you soon! Don and Jill Kevin McLaughlin@WallaceGrommet February 15, 2024 No wonder every time I hail your boat it has a new owner at the helm! BrightMarine@BrightMarine↩ #9 March 13, 2024 Did you know there is a Kristen 46 at liberty Bay marina. Blue hull next to the tolly I’m working on now. [![Screenshot_20240312_224124_OneDrive](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/6757e4dba89b29f366564bd2119dda488cecc13c.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/6757e4dba89b29f366564bd2119dda488cecc13c.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "Screenshot_20240312_224124_OneDrive") Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #15 March 13, 2024 I did know of her. I saw her there a couple of months ago and she’s got a new name. I’ve not been able to track down the owners yet. I do have pictures from when she sold a year ago and she’s quite different inside and slightly less LOA. ### 2023 Trip Highlights and Stats URL: https://seabits.com/2023-trips-and-stats/ Last updated: 2026-03-24T23:40:29.000Z --- This year was pretty amazing for trips and experiences on [Kaos](https://seabits.com/kaos/). Tons of anchorages, spectacular views, and all with close friends. ## The Numbers - 2824 nautical miles - 369 hours underway - 116 different moves from place to place - 185 days spent away from home port - 85 days at various docks - 93 days at anchor - 3 days on mooring buoys I would have liked to have spent more days at anchor, but I always feel that way! Here are some highlights from the year. ## Early Winter in Canada - Gulf Islands & Vancouver ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0857-1.jpeg) Underway near Mayne Island I love cruising in the off-season - beautiful vistas with the cold air and snow, empty anchorages, and interesting weather and storms. This trip provided all of those things! I was buddy boating with my friend Tom on Equinox during this trip. The trip started in the Gulf Islands - Winter Cove, Genoa Bay, Mill Bay, and Ganges Harbour. We hid out in Ganges for a few days during a snowstorm with a lot of wind, spent some time at Moby's, and then crossed the Strait of Georgia to Vancouver. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0959-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0988-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1009-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1011-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1021-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0967.jpeg) Vancouver in the snow Vancouver was awesome - and it snowed quite a bit. The harbour also started freezing somehow and was quite crazy to see. I stayed at Coal Harbour Marina ($$$) due to other arrangements not working out. It was pretty expensive, but it was nice for a few days to wait out the storm and winds. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1028-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1039-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1057-1.jpeg) Howe Sound We ended up needing to leave Vancouver and decided to head to Halkett Bay in Howe Sound for a night. The ice was still an issue for a while out until Pt. Atkinson, but cleared up pretty quickly. I stern tied in Halkett Bay and we had a quiet night before crossing the Strait of Georgia in the morning. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1101.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1131.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1137.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1133.jpeg) Wallace Island We ended up at Wallace Island which we explored for a few days. It was pretty tricky to stern tie Kaos in a spot with enough depth, and we had a bit of a windstorm that meant for some extra pressure on the stern line. I also started getting really sick and ended up having to go to the hospital in Friday Harbor for strep throat! I was so sick that while docking there, I dropped my phone in the water - you never really realize how much you depend on your phone until you don't have it in a remote location. All in all it was a fantastic winter trip with almost zero other boats out and about. Lots of snow, wind, and beautiful views. ## Broughtons: April-May-June Duration: 60 days 995 nautical miles 39 days at anchor, 21 days at docks ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/00727081-b93f-4afb-b198-7f434ff4b4eb.jpeg) Kaos underway in Sunderland Channel This was my favorite trip of the year because it was with two other boats full of amazing people - Equinox and Fortitude. We had a phenomenal time, and visited places none of us had been before. This trip is too much to summarize here - it deserves its own article which is in the works! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/9b605dfc-039a-47fd-8d80-31994b1a4884.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/206a737d-687b-4ba1-8c32-943b402a01f7.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/DJI_0009_DxO.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/DJI_0017_DxO.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/DSC06412_Nik_HDR_DxO-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0739.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_1116.jpeg) Kaos, Equinox and Fortitude in the Broughtons and around The trip started with the three of us all coming from different locations, and getting trapped on various sides of the Strait of Georgia during a multi-day long storm. After we connected in Heriot Bay, we made our way up into the Octopus Islands, and then as quickly as possible up into the Broughtons. We enjoyed a solid 4 weeks of cruising together before Fortitude left to head to Alaska. Equinox and I continued to cruise for another 4+ weeks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/DSC08020_DxO.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0591.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0638.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0824.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0963.jpeg) One of my favorite trips in years Early season cruising in the Broughtons was absolutely worth it. On the way south, Equinox and I visited Vancouver again, and spent a week or so in the Gulf Islands before heading south back into the US. ## Desolation: August-September-October Duration: 69 days 1008 nautical miles 31 days at anchor, 35 days at docks, 3 days on a mooring ball Another amazing trip with Equinox and visits from a few other boaters. This one definitely deserves a whole article too - coming soon! Here are some highlights... ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_7158.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_2589.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_2950.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_2487.jpeg) Jedediah Island, Copelands, and the beginning of Desolation Sound We started out with a couple of days in the Gulf Islands and reconnected with Fortutide who had just gotten back from being in Alaska all summer. Equinox and I then scooted over to Jedediah Island Marine Park - this was the first time we had been there, and I cannot believe I've passed this by for 25+ years! It deserves more time than our 4 days there. We ended up in the Copelands and ran into several other friends who hung out for a day or so, and then up into Desolation. Lots of stern ties on this trip! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_2648.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_2745.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_2843.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_2980.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_3085.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_3107.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/DJI_0024_Nik_HDR_DxO.jpg) All around Desolation - Prideaux, Ramsay Arm, Refuge Cove, and a side trip to Princess Louisa! Anchorages included spots like Tenedos Bay, Ramsay Arm, Prideaux Haven, Beaver Inlet, Princess Louisa Inlet, Garden Bay, Cortes Bay, Pendrell Sound and many more. Another fantastic trip with good company and both familiar and new anchorages, plus a few windstorms thrown in for good measure. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/12/IMG_0168.jpeg) Frannie, patiently waiting for our next trip.... I can't wait to share more details on the two big trips, and of course the new trips we'll take on our new boat....more on that in a few weeks! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 5 comments Hartley Gardner@Hartley December 27, 2023 Looks a fun year, Steve! Long ago (early 90’s) we chartered up in that area and loved everything except the fog (pre-GPS and charter boats don’t have radar!) and the water temp (no swimming!). Your excellent pictures brought back some fond memories Hartley Wdeertz@Wdeertz December 27, 2023 Nice looking Krogen 54\. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 December 27, 2023 Hartley: > and the water temp (no swimming!) There are a few places you can swim in relatively warmer water, but only in the summer, and usually up in Canada in some of the inlets where the fresh water is coming down on top of the salt water and heats up faster. I grew up locally in Puget Sound and we used to swim in it all the time, but it is usually around 52F / 11C which is a bit cold for me now Wdeertz: > Nice looking Krogen 54\. That it is! One of my favorite designs of all time - the benefits of a trawler with some sail added in. Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #5 April 12, 2024 Yes, it seems like the older one gets, the lower the tolerance for cold We just got back from the Bahamas - perhaps for the last time, unless the weather improves! All & sundry (including natives) said this was the worst weather year is more than 30. [![SpanishWells-2490](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/f8a84134dae1caff5a6288f645e330941928227a.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/f8a84134dae1caff5a6288f645e330941928227a.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "SpanishWells-2490") Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 April 18, 2024 The view still looks amazing! ### Capsule dishwasher URL: https://seabits.com/loch-capsule-dishwasher/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:00:36.000Z --- Washing dishes isn't as sexy as new marine electronics, but when you find a good solution to make your life easier, it's still a pretty good thing. I've tried a few different countertop dishwashers, and am pleasantly surprised with the [Loch Capsule](https://lochelectronics.com/pages/capsule?ref=seabits.com). I started using countertop dishwashers a few years ago, and while they seemed like they could help deal with dishes aboard, they always had some issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_2416.jpeg) On Rendezvous we had a [Kapas dishwasher](https://amzn.to/3RcjLVV?ref=seabits.com) that worked OK, but it required two loads for an average meal because of the height. The second load was always for the plates, tipped over at an angle. This limited the number of plates to about three, and required two cycles of about 45 minutes. ## Capsule dishwasher ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_2297.jpeg) The [Loch Capsule](https://lochelectronics.com/products/capsule-dishwasher-us?ref=seabits.com) is a bit different in a couple of ways. First, it is taller and allows for standard dishes to fit into it without tipping them on the side. Second, it uses a lot less water and power for a standard wash, which is good on a boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_2298.jpeg) It is narrower than the other standard countertop style dishwashers, but I find that for 2-3 people, it can accommodate a meals worth of dishes in one load. That has resulted in slightly different behavior. I now run the dishwasher after every meal, but it is a short 15 minute wash, and it takes care of whatever is generated at that meal. With the other dishwashers, I would run them 3-4 times a day because I'd have to pick and choose what fits in, and always end up with something that wasn't washed. This used a lot more power and water since they ran for 45 minutes each cycle. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/Capsule_images_17_in_the_box.png) What's included in the box - image courtesy of Loch Electronics You get the dishwasher, tray, silverware tray, hoses for water from the reservoir and discharge water, and a basket for sanitizing fruit. The tray itself is well made, and has adjustable inner stays that help with holding plates and such. Some can be folded down to get out of the way if needed. There are also two angled platforms for cups so that the water runs off the top of them instead of pooling, which is nice. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_3859.jpeg) The unit comes with a small water tank that you can fill to provide water for the unit, and a hose to connect it to the bottom left small inlet you see above. It also comes with an output hose for the dirty water and a little suction cup thing to attach that hose to the side of your sink so it doesn't fling around and cause problems. It also has a larger inlet for plumbing it from a pressurized water source. I used it both with the tank for the first month, and then via a diversion valve off of my sink faucet into the dedicated inlet. The only complaint I have about this part is that changing the unit to use pressurized water is a funky key press on the front, and if you don't remember to turn on the water, it defaults back to using the smaller inlet and makes a racket until you shut it off and then reset the setting again. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_3860.jpeg) There's a nice carrying handle on the top of the unit which is convenient when getting it into place or moving it around if you need to. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_1614.jpeg) I bought the unit to wash dishes, but it can also clean fruit and has a UV cycle for sterilizing things. The buttons are really big and obvious, but not if there is bright sunlight. I really, really like how you can choose the length of a wash all the way from 15 minutes upwards. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_3864.jpeg) The big change that I noticed over time was the water and power savings. Only running the dishwasher for 15 minutes, instead of 45, means a ton less power being used to heat the water, etc. during a cycle. The Capsule is also designed to use a lot less water than the other countertop dishwashers, and that helps too. I rarely have to use any longer cycles than 15 minutes, and only when things are really dirty. It does an excellent job of cleaning even in that short amount of time. ## Challenges ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_3863.jpeg) **Silverware tray** \- whomever designed this didn't put much thought into how it would be used. I appreciate that it is free floating, but there is no spot within the tray that it stays reliably. It falls over easily when even partially loaded. It would have been nice if they had thought of some sort of clip setup. **Lights are too dim** \- the lights and numbers on the front of the unit are completely unreadable sunlight. In most cases, I just hit the start button without being able to read the LEDs. On a boat in a galley with lots of windows, this is a bit of a challenge. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_3861.jpeg) **Rinse aid dispenser is optional** \- At the time I ordered mine, they didn't have this available, and I expected it to be a bolt on, but it's a completely different unit/door. I end up squirting the rinse aid in the bottom of the tray, but this really shouldn't be an option, it should come standard. ## Conclusion Would I buy it again? Yes, absolutely. It has been a critical appliance used every day multiple times, and it keeps dishes to an absolute minimum. There have been zero failures, and while there are some issues, it doesn't prevent the overall use of the dishwasher. I use a ton less power and water than washing them by hand, and it is set and forget - throw everything in after a meal and hit a button, you're done! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/21_2eefa08d-fc7c-47a5-bbe1-bf69b4be3f20.png) #### Capsule Dishwasher by Loch Electronics Capsule is a 3-in-1 mini dishwasher for small homes, apartments, offices and just about anywhere else you can think of. [More Info](https://lochelectronics.com/pages/capsule?ref=seabits.com) --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 9 comments Hartley Gardner@Hartley November 26, 2023 Looks like a good thing, Steve. Let me begin the snarky responses with a picture of the much-maligned dishwasher on ATSA: [![HartleyRain](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/4a0bcee9f6b0c290022faa1897337f338b4509d2.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/4a0bcee9f6b0c290022faa1897337f338b4509d2.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "HartleyRain") Hartley Bob Curtis@CountingStars November 26, 2023 We have had this unit for over 6 months now… purchased based on recommendation from friends who used, including on an Atlantic crossing. I know many will consider it an unnecessary or excessive, but it is **exceptionally** more efficient with water than we are washing by hand, and it makes doing the dishes far less time consuming and taxing. I get to spend time doing other things, like more boat projects Frank@Frank November 26, 2023 Looks slick! What about power utilization? I assume it is 120V. Do you run it off the inverter when away from shore power? Is it heating the water? Must be a pretty big draw. Or, does it require the generator? Regards, Frank Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 November 26, 2023 CountingStars: > but it is **exceptionally** more efficient with water than we are washing by hand I don’t think I got this across enough in my article - thanks for reiterating that! Filling a whole sink to do dishes once a day, sometimes twice, is a lot of water compared to what this thing uses. Frank: > What about power utilization? I assume it is 120V. Do you run it off the inverter when away from shore power? Is it heating the water? Must be a pretty big draw. Or, does it require the generator? It is 120V AC, and I use it on the inverter. The specs say it uses about 950W of power, but I’ve not seen it go quite that high. It is heating the water, but if you use the 15 minute cycle, it’s not for that long, and definitely not for the whole 15 minute cycle. You can see [more specs here](https://lochelectronics.com/pages/tech-specs-2-0?ref=seabits.com) if you’re curious. Frank@Frank↩ #6 November 27, 2023 Did you consider mounting it below counter height - semi built-in? I guess the drain would be the issue. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 November 27, 2023 That was a longer term plan until we decided to sell Kaos. We have been looking at completely re-working the galley for a while, and either getting this unit under counter or something more was in the plans. Frank@Frank November 27, 2023 Do you know if the drain has pump action or is just gravity? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #9 November 27, 2023 It definitely has a pump but it isn’t massively powerful. I have my discharge pipe all stretched out and it still comes out with some force. I don’t know how far you could take it, though. deregtd@deregtd May 27, 2024 Our buddy boat and us both got these over the winter and installed them in April when we got back up to our boats. We’ve been loving this every day since then. We happened to have an utterly perfect spot to install it, replacing an awkwardly-shaped wine fridge from the factory with the Loch unit within a millimeter on width, and fitting perfectly on length, with room to run water and drain hoses behind it. Less water than doing it by hand, better cleaning, and way less hassle. ### Seaview light and mount URL: https://seabits.com/seaview-light-mount/ Last updated: 2026-08-24T02:59:56.000Z --- I wanted to upgrade the anchor and steaming light on Kaos and fix some cosmetic issues with the radar mount, get my GPS and wind instruments updated, and find a proper platform to mount my Starlink. I ended up choosing a couple of Seaview products which I cover below. ## Old Setup ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8426.jpeg) The old setup was a Seaview mount that had been damaged and was losing its coating in several places. In the janky version above, I had attached a piece of Coosa board to the top where an old Intellian satellite dish once lived in order to mount a couple of Starlink dishes for testing. This was in the summer of 2022 when Starlink still had no "official" support for in-motion versions and I was comparing one dish with the motors disabled (left) with one working normally. There are also cables everywhere which is normal for how I test - running them permanently isn't worth it when things get swapped in/out or fail. This also had an extension with an anchor/steaming light combination that I didn't particularly like from the size, color and it wasn't as bright as I would like. ## Old Light The old steaming / anchor light still worked, but it never seemed quite bright enough or the right size for the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8652.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8651.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8649.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8650.jpeg) Old Attwood steaming / anchor light It was made by Attwood and looked in OK shape, but everything else on the mount and related parts was white except this part. The wiring (not pictured) was quite a mess when I took the old mount and light off. ## New Light ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8637.jpeg) New Seaview light The new light (Seaview part LTBLED12) is white and matches the rest of the mount, and is a ton brighter. It comes with 7' of wire attached, and has been designed to mount into various Seaview products easily. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8632.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8638.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8634.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8636.jpeg) There's a super helpful arrow to make sure you point the light in the right direction. You can also see the starboard and port letters printed on the board inside if you look close. This light is good for boats up to 20 meters or 65' according to the US Coast Guard. Seaview told me they spent a lot of time thinking about the things they didn't like about other manufacturers lights, and decided to make their own that avoided those failure cases. It's definitely evident that they spend more time and money on the light as it feels much beefier, is larger, and looks really nice size wise. ## New Mount ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8641.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8642.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8643.jpeg) Old vs new The old and new mounts are virtually the same. That was intentional so I didn't have to completely re-think how it was mounted on the arch, or patch big holes. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8614.jpeg) Optional SP2MOD kit One of the things I love about the Seaview product line is their modularity. There are tons of options for every mount, so you can usually find something that will add more functionality, accommodate something new you want to throw on, etc. For this setup, I chose to add the SP2MOD kit which consists of a spacer that stacks on top of the mount base, and two "wings" that allowed me to mount additional instruments. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8631.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8630.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8629.jpeg) The kit is pretty easy to setup. You can use the extension pipes at the end to keep the instruments up higher, or just mount things directly on the end. I ran my NMEA 2000 cabling ahead of time so it would be easier once things are assembled. It is a lot more difficult to try to do that afterwards because of the angles things have to turn. ## Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/4D2A2BE9-9E25-428A-A02B-57C440B6B58D.jpeg) One thing I see a lot when troubleshooting customer installations is problems with their NMEA 2000 network. This is especially true for mast-mounted setups where folks don't consider the length of cabling and whether they're terminating things in the right way. Airmar WX-series ultrasonic wind/weather instruments (like we're installing in this setup) are notorious for causing problems if you get the wrong cable (terminated vs un-terminated). I did some testing after adding the new cabling and devices with my Maretron tester to make sure things look perfect. There are other ways to do this that I cover in the article below I wrote a few years ago. [NMEA 2000 network troubleshooting toolsNMEA 2000 networks are part of any connected boat, and can be problematic by nature of their design. Troubleshooting an N2K network can be done very easily.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Maretron-N2K-meter-1-1.jpg)](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-troubleshooting-tools/) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8644.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8645.jpeg) Seaview cable gland included One thing that is super nice with the Seaview mount is the plastic plate and cable gland that is included. The previous mount just had a plastic plate and a hole in it, while the new one has this molded plastic oval on it that the cable gland fits right over. This is mid-install, and the final product I didn't get pictures of because I was doing this solo (as usual!). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8653.jpeg) You can see in the final installation that I've put an Airmar ultrasonic wind/weather instrument on the port wing, and a GPS compass on the starboard wing. One side has the extension, and the other doesn't. That kit comes with a spacer as well for the light bar to connect in the back, and attach to the top plate. The top plate is one of the modular benefits of the Seaview products. In this picture it's some random plate, but I replace that a few months later with something that works better with my Starlink mount. Seaview has even more options for mounting Starlink stuff [on their website](https://www.seaviewglobal.com/collections/starlink-accessories?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8656.jpeg) I really like how this looks compared to the previous setup, and it gets the GPS and weather instruments up where they belong. The wind sensor was previously mounted right on the arch and obscured by multiple things which meant poor readings - especially while docking. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/IMG_8789.jpeg) Starlink mounted The final step was mounting my Starlink dish on the top plate. This used a mount from Star Mount Systems with the mast of the Starlink pointed straight down through the top plate and a rubber seal. The end result is a very clean, all white setup that moved the instruments to the right place, got the Starlink up high with minimal shadowing, and gave me a really bright steaming / anchor light. I'm very pleased with the setup and have been using it for about a year with zero issues. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 5 comments Kiwi337@Kiwi337 November 24, 2023 Hi Steve, looks really good! I’m guessing you disabled the AZI and ELV motors in the starlink dish mount? or, does it just “torque/Time out” when it tries to align? Often wondered if that would work… Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 November 24, 2023 I wouldn’t put it in a mount like that and hope the motors time out - pretty sure it would kill them, and it might do other damage. I cut a hole in the back of the dish in a very specific spot and unplugged the motor cable. There’s a rubber plug in the hole in case I want to plug it back in again for some reason, which is unlikely in my application. I have 3 I’ve done this way myself, and have done it for about 50 others for customers. Works very well, but the newest version of the dish now comes flat, so not really necessary anymore. Hartley Gardner@Hartley September 02, 2024 Hi Steve, We’re mogating South toward the Chesapeake, and sitting here reading your articles While we have a sailboat, we have somewhat the same light issues - in our case, we have the olde AquaSignal “stack” on top of the mast - strobe (which we’ve never used except once to annoy the USCGA), tricolor and anchor. I replaced all the incandescent bulbs with LEDs many years ago using Marinebeam replacements and they’re working fine, but I keep wondering when I’ll have to journey up there to replace/clean one of those bulbs/light sockets. Is there any sort of replacement fixture that would be easy to replace the olde tower assembly (with or without the strobe)? I’ve already replaced the red & green bow lights and white stern with sealed units. Second, the Seaview sealing gland you used - I have a couple of those and I love them - all my solar wiring and coaxes from the Cell/wifi antennas goes through one or the other. One thing I found - if you drill all the holes you need (using their handy brass tube “bits” ) you can then slit the rubber sealing gland with a razor knife out to the edge and you don’t have to remove the connectors! \[Cut only out to the edge, don’t cut the rubber piece apart!\] I did this when I installed the 22G last year, and its still bone dry inside. Hartley S/V Atsa Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 September 14, 2024 Hartley: > Is there any sort of replacement fixture that would be easy to replace the olde tower assembly (with or without the strobe)? What does the “stack” have in it? Just a steaming and anchor light or more? I actually like the LunaSea anchor lights if that’s all you’re looking for, although they do have the strobe as well. I’ve written about them a couple of times: - [Major mast work](https://seabits.com/major-mast-work/) - [Seaview - more than just mounts](https://seabits.com/seaview-more-than-mounts/) Hartley: > you can then slit the rubber sealing gland with a razor knife out to the edge and you don’t have to remove the connectors! Yup! There are a lot of ways to avoid chopping off connectors I used one version of their glands when [Upgrading VHF and AIS antennas](https://seabits.com/upgrading-vhf-and-ais-antennas/) and love the copper tubes to cut the holes. They actually have one version where the entire base part comes in two pieces so if the cable is already run AND you don’t want or can’t pull it back, but need a gland, you can snap the two halves around the cable, and then cut the rubber and slip it around, and you’re done! I thought I’d written about that one too, but can’t find it… Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #6 September 14, 2024 Hi Steve, Nice day on the water here in Annapolis! The AquaSignal Series 40 masthead light has two sections: an all-around white that contains the strobe and the anchor light, plus a tricolor section on top. It has a base that the wiring connects to, then the light stack is attached to the base, with connections for all the various lights. I really don’t need the strobe, but the anchor light and tricolor is a must. I could remove it entirely then install something new by drilling & tapping the mast top (1/2" aluminum!) - but thats a lot of work at 65’ up. Update: I just deleted a lengthy whinge about Aquasignal not having a direct replacement - and they don’t (my base is too old) - but the new base (Series 34) has the exact same screw holes, so that should be within my skillset! Good news! Thanks! Hartley ### WiFi as WAN URL: https://seabits.com/wifi-as-wan/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:30:53.000Z --- And often misunderstood feature on routers is the ability to grab a remote WiFi signal and use it as a source of internet. For some, it is overlooked completely as they rely on cellular or satellite, while others use it in ways that will impact performance. It can also be used for other creative means, and deserves some discussion. ## WiFi as a source WiFi was one of the first ways boaters could be online prior to cellular being usable and affordable. It's always been a bit of a mess - many companies produced boosters and various products that worked in different ways, but lacked a lot of features, and were quite expensive back in the day. Some of you may remember the Ubiquiti Bullet and other products based off of that platform which was very popular, and finicky to use. [Marina WiFi is hardRecently I had the chance to spend a few weeks working on a local marina WiFi system. The biggest issue was the perception of the boaters throughout the marina, and the need to invest in equipment to improve the signal within their boats.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/2Ghz-Wifi-Spectrum.png)](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) Part of the challenge is how hard it is to provide reliable WiFi in a marina environment. 6 years ago I wrote about the challenges, and they are still relevant today. What has changed is that WiFi equipment has become easier to deploy, cheaper, and more people are educated about how to use it while in a marina setting. How useful it will be depends on your equipment and quality of installation, as well as the marina or location you're in. I use WiFi any place I happen to be able to get a stable signal as a backup, or even as a primary source if it is paired with another connectivity method in a redundant fashion. Let's delve a little deeper into the various options to take advantage of WiFi from a boat. ## Dedicated WiFi device There are dedicated devices that you can use to grab a remote WiFi signal, but most need additional hardware, such as a router, to produce a full solution. For many years, the MikroTik Groove has been a popular solution, and I've written about it often. [MikroTik Groove step-by-step setup guideSetting up the MikroTik Groove to boost WiFi on your boat can be daunting. With a few quick steps you can get the Groove up and running quickly on your network.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/MikroTik-closeup.jpg)](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/) There are/were also products made by Rogue WiFi, UniFi/Ubiquity and others that are similar in shape and design - and outdoor unit with an antenna that looked like a "bullet". For many years, this was one of the most popular ways of connecting and I have installed many of these units for boaters and answered even more questions about setup and configuration. The limit of these devices is the features, utility, and the cost. The harder to use ones like the MikroTik are around $100, while others can run $500+ which is near a full fledged mobile router. They're also focused on doing just one thing - grabbing remote WiFi. Very few have the ability to broadcast it back into your boat - you'll need another device to do that, which adds to the cost and complexity. Many of the original vendors in this space are either out of business or retired or changed their products. The most popular one, from Ubiquity (now UniFi) is actually still produced, but the software has dramatically changed and only works when connecting to another product from UniFi, making it unusable for our purposes. Some vendors still sell products in this space, but they are quite expensive, to the point where it might make more sense to look at mainstream vendors like Peplink and Cradlepoint. Many offer them bundled with other devices that will re-broadcast the WiFi signal in your boat, and even add cellular connectivity. I've tested many of these solutions, and the primary benefit is ease-of-use, but their support models and longevity should be a key concern given the cost. For folks who want a simple setup, these solutions still offer a cheaper way to get internet than a full fledged router, and usually have very easy to use interfaces. ## WiFi as WAN This is a feature that Peplink provides in most of their products. Other vendors have similar functionality but use a different name, although it varies greatly depending on the product. As an example, the [Teltonika RUTX11 router](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/), which uses OpenWRT as a base operating system, will allow you to connect to a remote WiFi network as a WAN source, but in most cases, that means that particular radio is not available to broadcast a local WiFi network without additional configuration and performance losses. Diving deeper into Peplink's WiFi as WAN, the basic feature allows you to scan for remote WiFi networks and have the router connect to it. It can then be used as a source of internet just like a cellular, physical, or satellite connection. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/10/Dashboard.png) WiFi as WAN connections on the dashboard It's pretty easy to use - find the WiFi as WAN item on your dashboard, and move it into an active priority. Once it finishes initializing, you can click on the little WiFi icon on the right (this is Pepwave's firmware version 8.3.0, so it might look slightly different to you). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/03/WiFi-networks-available.png) List of WiFi networks You'll get a list of WiFi networks, signal strengths, security information, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/03/Connect-to-WiFi.png) You can click on Connect, provide a password, and also pick a "Preferred BSSID" which allows you to lock your connection to a particular channel/radio/device, which I don't recommend unless you have a particular performance reason to do so. Once you've completed this, the router will connect to the network and do whatever health checks are setup before enabling the connection. Some Peplink routers will only show one WiFi as WAN connection available, while others show one for 2.4Ghz and one for 5Ghz. This is somewhat inconsistent across the Peplink product line and firmware version. I prefer seeing them with two, and usually choose models that have that for my installations so that I have more flexibility in tuning it. Since 2.4Ghz tends to travel farther more reliably, being able to pick that is a benefit for reliability versus having it switch back and forth between the bands. The other benefit of having both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz WiFi as WAN is that you actually have **two** separate internet connections, one for each band, which adds redundancy and bandwidth. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/01/image.png) Some bigger routers like the MBX line have many radios and will allow you to configure them in three different modes: - **WAN** In this mode, all radios operate as Wi-Fi WAN. No local Wi-Fi network will be created. - **WAN + AP** In this mode, some radios will will operate as Wi-Fi WAN. Some other radios will be used for your local WiFi network (access point). - **AP** In this mode, all radios will be used for local WiFi. With these larger routers, they usually have 4x Wifi antennas and two sets of radios - 2x for 2.4Ghz, and 2x for 5Ghz. This particular option allows you to tailor the installation to bigger boats and setups. In many cases, I've recommended that the router be setup in WAN only mode where it never generates a local WiFi network, and instead uses the onboard radios to grab a remote WiFi signal. That makes the router completely dedicated to the internet sources, and not dealing with generating WiFi. Then you can use the AP One series access points throughout the boat, and managed by the router, to provide local WiFi. It also is the highest performing setup for WiFi as WAN, if you have the hardware and correct antennas. ## WiFi as WAN Limitations There are a few limitations with WiFi as WAN all around performance, and this includes most other vendors implementations as well. Using factory antennas on the router to try to grab a remote WiFi signal is not going to get a great result in most cases. In many installs, locating the router in an outdoor location, flybridge, or other places with less interference will provide a good result with the factory antennas, but the best solution is a dedicated outdoor WiFi antenna. Just like with all other antenna installs, make sure you don't exceed a 20' overall antenna cable length nor use lots of joints or adapters - every one of those reduces the overall performance significantly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/scan-wireless-WAN-join.png) Teltonika RUTX11 router joining remote WiFi networks The other big performance limitation is with routers that only have one set of radios. If you're generating your own local WiFi network, which most of us do, and you are also using WiFi as WAN, you will cut performance of both significantly. In many cases, it will reduce overall throughput by at least 50%, if not more, and can affect signal strength and reliability depending on what is going on. This is because the router is using the radio(s) to do **both** things simultaneously, which is less than optimal. This is why even on smaller installations with a MAX Transit or similar product, I recommend using the main router to grab/create internet **only.** That means it uses the cellular radio, the WAN port to connect to a Starlink dish, and the WiFi radios inside the router to grab remote WiFi signals. Then you pair it with an indoor Peplink Access Point that generates your local WiFi signal and place that nearer to where people congregate. The main router can manage the access point and you focus each part of the hardware on doing the best possible work for the purpose. This division of labor means that each piece is doing a job that is best suited for it, and gives you the best performance both from your local WiFi network, but also in getting a remote internet connection. ## Starlink & WiFi as WAN There are two reasons folks should consider using WiFi as WAN with Starlink. The first has to do with simplifying your setup. I see many folks with a Peplink/other solution WiFi network, and a separate Starlink network. They switch between them depending on whether they want to use cellular or Starlink - what a pain! You could buy the Starlink ethernet adapter and plug it directly into your router, but sometimes that is not the best choice (see below) or maybe you just don't want to spend the extra money, or perhaps you're using the WAN/internet port on your router for something else. An even more compelling reason to use it **instead** of the ethernet adapter has to do with specific models of Peplink routers that perform terribly when plugged in via ethernet. Check [this forum post](https://forum.peplink.com/t/throughput-issues-when-connecting-to-a-starlink-gen-2-router/62cba0d0e3d5c2aca578eb69/?ref=seabits.com) for more details - one of the workarounds is to use WiFi as WAN. ## Hotspots, Phones, Testing Another reason to use WiFi as WAN is if you have a hotspot or MiFi device that you want to use with your existing router / WiFi network. It's an easy way to add an additional internet source. Plenty of folks have also used it to tether to their phone via WiFi, or even just for testing by pointing it at another device or WiFi network. I use it all the time when testing new routers. ## Summary Remote WiFi is still a viable internet source for many folks, even with Starlink. I use it in places where known good networks exist at marinas and other docks that I visit, and it saves cellular bandwidth usage, and can fill in when Starlink gets slow. If you have higher end routers, check to see if they support features like this, and design your setup to take full advantage of it, which might include a dedicated access point and antennas. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 10 comments Hartley Gardner@Hartley August 18, 2024 Hi Steve - it’s been a while! I had reasonably good luck with T-Mobile after I left Verizon - including in the Bahamas, though it is apparent that the Bahamian cell companies don’t like LTE routers, as I found myself being throttled a LOT. We have a BR1 mini (hw3) and the cellular modem has been working fine here stateside as we’ve travelled North from Georgia to Maine via the Chesapeake. I did learn about leaving roaming enabled here in Maine - it connected to the “other” cell system, but speed was awful - and the signal was better than T-Mobile, so resetting it didn’t help. Shutting off roaming solved the issue. But back to the main subject - I had both 2 & 5 Ghz WiFi listed on my Dashboard as WAN sources, with the scanning button and all - but they have both disappeared! Has my wifi engine in the router quit? I have 8.4.1 Firmware installed, and nothing newer seems to be available. I had the built-in AP turned off, but turning it on does not seem to produce a wifi signal. I also note that the “LAN3” WAN entry says “Disabled (License Required)” which I don’t recall from prior use (doesn’t really matter, I’m not using it now). I think I scored another BR1 mini (HW3) so I’ll try that when it shows up. Hartley S/V Atsa Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 August 18, 2024 Is the current unit you’re using a BR1 mini? Those units have different licensing options at purchase, and depending on how you purchased it, could expire unless you renew a support plan. That sounds like what might have happened. wkearney99@wkearney99 August 18, 2024 speaking of licenses, which one is appropriate for a MAX BR1 Pro 5G? I set it up 3/2024 and that expired and I’m confused about which tier is necessary for it. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 August 18, 2024 Good question. Peplink has a good article that outlines the differences here: [EssentialCare - Peplink](https://www.peplink.com/support/peplink-essentialcare/?ref=seabits.com) For most people, either EssentialCare or EssentialCare+ are most likely. The big difference with EssentialCare+ is the advanced hardware replacement. This means they’ll ship you a replacement router if you have a failure instead of you having to ship your broken one back and wait for a replacement to be shipped to you. The difference in cost is usually close enough to make it easier to purchase EssentialCare+. However…. If internet and connectivity is as important to you as it is to me, I choose to have 2x of the same router (or a similar one) under EssentialCare (no plus) and simply switch to the spare router if the main one dies. Advanced hardware replacement is nice, but you still have to wait for them to ship it to you, and in my case, have to be near somewhere for them to ship it to! Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #4 August 19, 2024 Steve - you hit the nail on the head! The primecare sub for this unit expired at the beginning of this month, and the wifi-as-WAN disappeared at that time (along with some other stuff). It took some digging, but it looks like I can either renew the primecare for $59/year (less for longer) or buy the “Features” license for $99/forever. Decisions, decisions… I have another BR1 mini HW3 coming (cheap so perhaps not useful) and I’m still debating moving up to the MAX 5G. Wifi as WAN is only very occasionally useful on the boat for us, but it would be nice to have. Thanks! Hartley S/V Atsa wkearney99@wkearney99↩ #6 August 31, 2024 I hate their website. Dynamic scrolling sucks ass. I just want to know what to buy for the Max BR1 Pro 5G. Plan A/B/C/Essential/Prime… COULD THEY JUST GIVE ME A re-subscribe link? I just want my BR1 Pro 5G to be able to keep a VPN link back to the office. I have a hub running in a VM there. I can’t for the life of me tell which pieces are “necessary” to make this happen. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 September 01, 2024 Were you able to figure this out? Happy to help if you need it. Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #8 September 02, 2024 Mr. Kearney, Having navigated the Peplink website a bunch lately, here’s the trick: from their main page, click on “Buy”, then click on “Peplink Store” - click through the “I undderstand…” page then it will let you enter your serial number. When you do, it will tell you what you have, and the status of any programs - then it will offer you various options to purchase to extend/renew your coverage. This feature is also handy for figuring out what some seller on ePay is REALLY offering Hartley wkearney99@wkearney99↩ #9 September 13, 2024 No, I was not. My scenario is relatively simple. I have a BR1 Pro 5G on the boat. I have a FusionHub running on a VM at the home office. I want to maintain a VPN between the two. I don’t care about ‘unbreakability’. It doesn’t matter to me that the BR1 on the boat is using a possibly changing IP address as it roams between different LTE connections. Which, iirc, is what their ‘unbreakable’ service works around. Traffic routes through their ‘hub’ and allows the connections to be seen as coming from a consistent IP. I get /why/ that’s useful for some, it’s extraneous to my overall needs. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #11 September 14, 2024 Did you end up getting this fixed? Happy to help if you didn’t. ### Victron electrical system after 14 months URL: https://seabits.com/victron-electrical-system-after-14-months/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:28:40.000Z --- I replaced the majority of the electrical system on [Kaos](https://seabits.com/kaos/) in May of 2022 because the old one did not meet my needs and had broken or worn out parts that I didn't want to try to replace. You can read about the whole project below. [Kaos LiFePO4 electrical system v1Kaos gets a new Victron 24 volt LiFePO4 electrical system that increases the reliability, capacity, and visibility.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)Steve MitchellSeaBits![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Full-Install-1.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/kaos-lifepo4-electrical-system-v1/) This is an update to that article to discuss what has worked, some performance details, and some future plans. ## Performance I have been extremely pleased with the overall performance of the system at every level. The inverters have worked flawlessly, batteries have been balanced the whole time, and I have plenty of capacity to run all of the things without really worrying about how much I'm using. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/Kaos-BMS-stats.jpeg) Kaos BMS stats as of July 23rd 2023 According to the BMS, I've discharged a max of 881 amp hours out of my 1000 amp hour capacity. That's not technically true, as I did a discharge down to 1% state of charge in the initial commissioning but reset the BMS stats after that (not intentionally). The cumulative amp hours drawn is pretty nice. 115,761 total amp hours which works out to about 8269 amp hours a month, or about 272 amp hours per day. I'm away from my home slip and at anchor a lot - \~240 days away in 14 months, and about 150 days at anchor - so that usage seems about right. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/2023-07-08_19-52-38.png) Kohler 13kW generator charging at 80% Charging has been really reliable as well. I have the system set to run the generator at 80% and it hums along without any issues. I do wish Victron had a slow start when the generator comes online - going from nothing to 80% in a few seconds sure doesn't make me happy, and I suspect the generator would agree. I had to do some experimentation to get the generator to a stable spot around 80% all of the time, and 86 amps (out of 100) seems to be that setting. While underway, the single 24 volt alternator (something I am looking at adding to - see below) carries most of my running loads and charges anywhere from 20-50 amps. Not a ton, but this was part of the design at the time. ## Monitoring Monitoring has continually improved as Victron has rolled out more features to all aspects of their products. This includes more data in their online portal, VRM, as well as updates to the products and apps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/IMG_1853.jpeg) Victron Connect quick display One update that was super nice was the quick status details in the Victron Connect app. This rolled out a few months ago and now shows bits of data on the main screen that allows you to do a quick check of everything without clicking in to each device. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/IMG_1854.jpeg) Victron Connect showing LiFePO4 battery status The last set of gear to get the update, at least on my boat, was the batteries. Now you can see their voltages, temperatures, and balance states all from the main screen. Really nice to see these on the main page of the Victron Connect app. BUT .... it would be **even better** if this data was visible in the GX, VRM and elsewhere. Having to be within Bluetooth range of the devices to get this info is annoying, and impossible if you are remote. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/vrmtop.png) Victron VRM overview page VRM continues to get better and better with more displays and widgets to match the specific system and setup. The real-time data is always nice to see, and being able to access it remotely via the app is also great. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/systemoverview.png) VRM System Overview The overview is great to see all of the power stats, but they also added specific graphs for shore and generator power (or tweaked the shore power one) to provide a bit deeper dive. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/vrm-shore.png) Shore power details ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/vrm-generator.png) Generator And you can also look at general consumption as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/vrmconsumption.png) Consumption All of these make it easier to figure out the performance of your system, how much power you're using from different sources, etc. While I still log much of this data using SignalK and InfluxDB locally, it's hard to keep up with these specialized views which continue to improve. ## Single Phase vs Split Phases If you remember my original design, I had to choose a single phase design because of the way my Kohler generator was setup. It is a 120 volt, 100 amp generator, and although similar models can output 240 volts AC, after many tries to convert it (including Kohler experts) we were unable to get it to work reliably. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/Split-v-parallel-system.png) Split Phase versus Parallel - image courtesy of PKYS.com To quote my other article on the power system installation: *"There is one downside, and that has to do with utilizing the maximum amount of shore power. Originally with 50 amp 240v coming into the boat, I had the ability to split the various AC loads across two phases - essentially two banks of 120 volts each at 50 amps. With this new configuration, I will only be using one phase of the two, which means I can only get 50 amps total out of shore power."* Many people asked about that choice, and some were worried that I would regret the decision because I wouldn't have as much power. Having used similar systems on smaller boats, and installed them for others, I was pretty confident I would be OK. So far, I have been very pleased with that choice for one main reason: simplicity. It has allowed me to put everything on one phase and all on inverter. Everything. This includes the watermaker, washer/dryer, hot water tanks, air conditioning, engine block heaters, plus all of the usual stuff. I don't usually run all of those things off of inverter, but I could. It also means I don't have to balance phases and deal with those issues which can be annoying depending on what device is running when. What it does do is make **using** the boat super simple for everyone involved. No more "hey, I need to turn the generator on to run the widget" or being worried about sleeping in through breakfast while folks try to figure out what they can/can't use. Everything just works. We have used the air conditioning at anchor on super hot days when there was no wind. Or run a load of laundry when a puppy barfed or peed on something and not had to think about it. I have very few issues having enough power while plugged in to shore power. The Power Assist feature from Victron deals with the situation where we exceed the 50 amp shore power connection. We never trip the breaker, and the system uses power from the batteries if needed to supplement. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/shore1.png) Shore power There was one situation where I came into a dock with really poor 30 amp power and needed to dial back the overall amperage to about 25 amps. This was the one time things didn't work well because the amount of AC power I needed for normal stuff was close to 25 amps, which meant the batteries never got charged, and in fact were depleting to supplement when we went over. Having a split phase system may have allowed me to plug into 2x 30 amp shore power connections and still charge batteries while running some other things **provided** my split phases were setup that way, which they often aren't. So, in that case, I might have been better off, but it is rare for that to be an issue, and I could have always kicked on the generator for a while. ## How is the 24 volt / 12 volt setup working? If you didn't read the previous article, Kaos had 12 volt DC power throughout, except for the bow thruster. Having designed many 12 volt systems in the past, I wanted to avoid having a 12 volt bank for the inverter due to the issues with cable size and amperage for larger power demands. I really wanted to have a 48 volt battery bank, but none of the big manufacturers really supported that well, alternators were a fortune, and fuses and other things were still a mess. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/IMG_8991.jpeg) 3x 70 amp DC-DC converters - 24 -> 12 volts DC So I chose 24 volts for the "inverter bank" and used 3x 70 amp 24 to 12 volt DC-DC converters connected to it to provide 12 volt power to the existing system. The converters have worked flawlessly, barely ever getting warm, even when heavy DC loads are being used. They provide a nice, clean 13 volt DC output to the main DC panel, big Webasto diesel heater, windlass, davit crane, and more. There have been a few times where high amperage devices have caused an issue with my NMEA 2000 bus. The biggest culprit was the windlass motor that failed in December 2022 (spectacularly, that is the subject of another article) and tripped the circuit breaker. A replacement motor also had issues (thanks Maxwell) and caused issues again. As a result, I put in a stabilizing power supply on my NMEA 2000 bus. I've done this in the past both on my own boats and client boats to provide rock solid voltage to prevent any issues. ## Any issues or changes? Not very much, to be honest. Most things were tweaks with settings in the first couple of weeks, and firmware upgrades to all of the components as they have become available. All of the wiring and major components are the same as outlined in the article, which is somewhat unusual. I tend to install bleeding edge things, and futz with them to get a bit more out of them, but this system has been surprisingly stable and kept me happy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/IMG_1312.jpeg) GuiMods Victron display I did install the [GuiMods](https://github.com/kwindrem/GuiMods?ref=seabits.com) add-on to the Cerbo GX to allow for more customization and data display, and spent a while customizing it to my liking. I wrote a bit about that too below. I highly recommend it if you are someone who likes more data and visualization in one screen. [Supercharged Victron displays & push alertsVictron provides amazing visibility into your electrical system, but GuiMods takes it to the next level with tons more data and usability.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)Steve MitchellSeaBits![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/One-1.png)](https://seabits.com/supercharged-victron-displays-push-alerts/) ## BMS shut down ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/IMG_2004--1-.jpeg) I had one issue with the Lynx BMS where I got it into a state that caused it to trip and shut off, killing both the inverters and the 12 volt DC house - so everything. I was testing something, and either disconnected the BMS cable from the batteries (oops) or something else - I actually don't remember what I was testing. It ended getting into a situation where I had to pull the manual to figure out how to get it happy again. Also, I did this while in the boatyard during a windstorm with really cold temps and relying on the electrical system to provide heating to prevent things from getting too cold. ### Balmar regulator replaces Wakespeed I have been a fan of the Wakespeed regulator for some time now, and initially had one on Kaos. I've also written about them below. In terms of a programmable regulator for high output alternators, there is no other choice on the market right now that has the features that the Wakespeed provides. [Wakespeed WS-500 regulator reviewThe Wakespeed WS-500 regulator is super programmable, has a ton of features, and can be used for dual engine, LiFePO4 banks, and smaller engines very effectively.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)Steve MitchellSeaBits![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Wakespeed-WS-500.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/) I switched to a Balmar 624 regulator in June of 2022 after having issues with the Wakespeed working reliably with the Lynx BMS. Having my share of integrating the Wakespeed on my previous boat [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), I chose to err on the side of simplicity and went with the Balmar after programming it for LiFePO4. It sounds like many of the teething issues between the Wakespeed and Lynx BMS have been resolved, in talking with folks who have installs and are performing installations, so I may look at adding this back soon. ## Sign up for SeaBits Get the latest articles and updates directly in your inbox Subscribe Email sent! Check your inbox to complete your signup. No spam. Unsubscribe anytime. ## What could be better? ### DC-DC Charger Monitoring ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/IMG_1820.jpeg) I would like to be able to monitor the DC-DC chargers better than using a smart phone and Bluetooth. I've toyed with adding some spare shunts I have just to bring the voltage into the Victron ecosystem, but I've not gotten around to it. It would really be nice if Victron added some method to grab even basic info from these chargers and put it on their network so you could see it in the Cerbo or online in VRM and drive alerts from it. ### Second 24 volt Alternator I'd like to add a second 24 volt alternator on the port engine and remove the existing 12 volt one that is connected to the start bank, and does very little. This would give me quite a bit more charging while underway and allow for more of a backup charging method to the generator. However, after having lived on 3 boats setup with high output alternators, I know the cost associated with having those sorts of systems. Yes, it is great to use your engines to charge while underway, but the higher output alternators require a lot more cooling, eat more belts if not perfectly tensioned, and in the case of dual alternators pointed at the same bank, require expensive regulators and perfect configuration. In all the times I had alternators setup this way, I always had to do something more to keep things happy, which I would prefer to avoid if possible. ### More Batteries! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/07/IMG_1144-1.jpeg) Who has ever said they have enough batteries? I haven't met them - yet! I would love to add a few more batteries to increase overall capacity and extend the time I can avoid charging. Of course, this comes at a cost of the batteries themselves, but also longer charging cycles on the generator. I think 2 more 200 amp hour 24 volt batteries would be a nice additional bump in capacity while not lengthening things too much. That would take me to 1400 amp hours @ 24 volts, or 2800 amp hours at 12 volts. The biggest challenge will be wiring them into the system as I've already gotten to the max amount of Lynx distribution bars that you can have. I may be able to swap one from the output side if I am creative, but we'll cross that bridge if I somehow find the $ in the budget for the 2x extra batteries. ### Maretron Instancing Issues I really wish Maretron N2Kview would consume and display NMEA 2000 data correctly. Their interpretation of instancing is less than desirable, and results in the data that Victron sends out being unreliable. Boating friend Peter Hayden of MV Tanglewood covered identical issues with his setup: [Maretron NMEA 2000 IncompatibilitiesNordhavn N60 cruising. Grand Banks cruising. Nordhavn 68\. Marine electronics.![](https://www.mvtanglewood.com/favicon.ico)Peter Hayden![](https://resources.blogblog.com/img/icon18_email.gif)](https://www.mvtanglewood.com/2023/04/maretron-nmea-2000-incompatibilities.html?ref=seabits.com) You can "fix" this by making a change to Victron, which results in N2Kview showing this correctly, but also breaking Victron's management in the process, which isn't desirable either. While Maretron N2Kview isn't the most modern or easy to use application out there, it is one of, if not the only, reasonably priced boat data management and display systems available to recreational boaters. As a result, I end up relying on the Victron apps and displays, which are nice, but it would be great to have all of this in one place, and be able to drive global alarms from there as well. ## Conclusion Overall I am extremely happy with the system performance and reliability the last 14 months. It was a great investment that has brought simplicity and comfort to the boat and allowed us to be more relaxed while at anchor. I expect it to continue to provide benefits many years into the future - at least until I find something new and interesting to replace it with 😂 ⚡️ --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 9 comments Jim Pickell@Jim\_Pickell July 24, 2023 Love reading your updates. Wish I had time to run some of the calculations. How do you get the per battery stats displayed? Do you have a Victron sense on each? I have a simpler system and would like to see that data. [![IMG_3901](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/e642c00c504e9b70512946a736e63b316b664bcd.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/e642c00c504e9b70512946a736e63b316b664bcd.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "IMG_3901") Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 July 24, 2023 Hi Jim, The per battery stats come from the batteries themselves. I have the Victron 24 volt, 200 amp hour models with a built in Bluetooth radio. That’s how the data is showing up - a firmware upgrade a few months ago (battery firmware upgrades always make me a little nervous!) enabled the data to be displayed on the Victron Connect app main screen. If you have Victron batteries with Bluetooth radios, you might be able to upgrade the firmware to see it. Jim Pickell@Jim\_Pickell July 24, 2023 I have Uline batteries. I was hoping if I had the sense from Victron that I could get some per battery data but I assume I would need one on each battery which seems silly. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 July 25, 2023 Yeah unfortunately this is a Bluetooth radio built in to each battery and connected in a way where the data is available to the Victron app itself, and not portable to other battery types or manufacturers. mgfite98034@mgfite98034 July 29, 2023 Thank you for the update. Your thorough write-ups are always appreciated. Stefano Rivera@stefanor July 30, 2023 > I would like to be able to monitor the DC-DC chargers better than using a smart phone and Bluetooth. FWIW, the bluetooth protocol that’s used for the live information on Victron app home screen has been reverse engineered (and subsequently somewhat publicly documented). You can collect this data into SignalK and InfluxDB. I hacked up [a simple signalk plugin](https://github.com/stefanor/signalk-victron-ble?ref=seabits.com) to do this for my setup. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 July 31, 2023 stefanor: > a simple signalk plugin This is awesome! I’m going to be testing this tonight. Thank you! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 July 31, 2023 stefanor: > I hacked up [a simple signalk plugin](https://github.com/stefanor/signalk-victron-ble?ref=seabits.com) to do this for my setup. Darn, I don’t think I can use this. Trying to install it on a Victron Cerbo which is right near my Orion DC-DC chargers, but it fails. Looks like it doesn’t have the python venv module and can’t install it. In fact, they don’t even have pip installed as part of their python implementation and I assume it has to do with keeping the distribution as lean as possible. My main Signal K server is a long ways away from the DC-DC chargers so Bluetooth doesn’t work from there. Stefano Rivera@stefanor↩ #10 August 01, 2023 steve: > Darn, I don’t think I can use this. Trying to install it on a Victron Cerbo which is right near my Orion DC-DC chargers, but it fails. Looks like it doesn’t have the python venv module and can’t install it. In fact, they don’t even have pip installed as part of their python implementation and I assume it has to do with keeping the distribution as lean as possible. Of course this could be rewritten in pure TS/JS by anyone who is comfortable in that landscape. Assuming the Cerbo gives some access to the Bluetooth stack… I just went with Python because that’s what I was reverse engineering in, and someone else beat me to making a decent library in Python. ### Supercharged Victron displays & push alerts URL: https://seabits.com/supercharged-victron-displays-push-alerts/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:07:06.000Z Victron has great visibility with their GX series of products, but there's an open source product that makes it even better. And recently Victron have updated their systems so you can get push alerts. ## GuiMods ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/Basic-Gen.jpeg) Standard Victron display The standard GX display screens are great and provide a quick way to see where power is flowing, general battery status, and more. However, it doesn't show a ton of detail, and if you want to change specific settings, it requires a number of clicks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/One.png) Victron GX with GuiMods enabled [GuiMods](https://github.com/kwindrem/GuiMods?ref=seabits.com) provides even more details in one screen as you can see above. Some of the things that have been added that I leverage: - Voltage / frequency / amperage at both the source side (Shore) and the inverter output side. - Shore amperage limit setting - Watts and amps on the DC side - Charge / discharge / capacity bars for each box ## Installing Keep in mind that this process requires a moderate amount of technical ability to install the various bits required. To install GuiMods, you will need to install [SetupHelper](https://github.com/kwindrem/SetupHelper?ref=seabits.com) first. I've used the "blind install" and done a command line install as well. Both work fine, although the command line version I found to be easier than moving SD cards around. Once you have SetupHelper installed, you're ready for [GuiMods](https://github.com/kwindrem/GuiMods?ref=seabits.com). Here are snippets from their installation notes (at the bottom of the readme on the page above): *The easiest way to install GuiMods is to do a "blind install" of SetupHelper and then add the GuiMods package via the PackageManager menus.* *Once SetupHelper is installed, you can add GuiMods by placing the archive from its GitHub repo on a USB stick or SD card and inserting it in the GX device (CCGX, Cerbo, etc.). PackageManager will detect the archive and transfer the package to local storage. It will then appear in the Active packages list.* Once you have installed GuiMods, you usually won't ever have to do this again - upgrades and updates are much easier. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/PackageManager.png) To confirm you'll get updates automatically, head into Settings and scroll to the bottom and choose Package manager. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/package-manager-settings.png) Package Manager settings I enabled (if I remember correctly) Automatic GitHub downloads that keeps the latest version downloaded. If you click into Active packages you can see more detail. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/active-packages.png) Active packages The "Auto install packages" from the previous screen, I believe, keeps the latest version that is downloaded installed. The whole PackageManager setup is a bit unclear at some points, but I understand the need for it since Victron have not really provided a 3rd party installation management system. You may have to experiment a bit with the settings in here if you don't want automatic updates. ## Configuration There are a **lot** of settings you can tweak with GuiMods, which can be a bit overwhelming. I've also seen them change a lot as the developer works through changes and feedback. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/Settings-Display-GuiMods.png) To get started, head into Settings -> Display & Language -> Gui Mods I would **highly** recommend reading the entire page at [GuiMods](https://github.com/kwindrem/GuiMods?ref=seabits.com) and writing down specific things that interest you before jumping in too deep. There are so many options and settings, that you might want to try changing a few things at a time to see how things look. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/settings1.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/settings2.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/settings3.png) Various settings in GuiMods I played around with a lot of them to get things looking the way I liked. You can see most of the settings I chose in the screen shots above. ## Usage ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/More.png) I like this system because it puts a ton more relevant information in one place. The simplified version Victron provides is good, but having things like voltage and frequency allows me to see if there is a transient problem or other issue. One of the features that was added recently is the bars you see on each square. These are configurable, and can take some time to setup, but I think they're worth it. They're a graphical representation of the various warning and maximum power amounts for things like shore power, generator, inverter, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/Power-gauges.png) Power gauge settings You'll have to go look up all of the various limits for your equipment, and then input them here. It's another great way to see a representation of how your system is working quickly - if the bars are "full" or close to one of the warning marks, you might want to look into things or monitor it more closely. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/Click-note.png) One of the great optimization features is the ability to click on the tiles on the main screen and get quick controls and details for each. You can see that represented above by the grey squares on each tile. Let's click into each and see the details. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/AC-details.png) AC Input Detail One of my favorite ones is the quick options for the AC Input, specifically Shore Power. This allows me to switch the input current limit very quickly instead of navigating to this in the default Victron pages and holding down the plus sign for a while. I visit a decent amount of places where the power is crappy, or only 30 amps, so being able to switch quickly is awesome. You can also see all of the data that is out on the main panel and a little more detail. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/Inverter-details.png) Inverter detail The inverter detail page delves a bit deeper into the stats showing input and output voltages, frequencies, currents, and power in watts. I use this screen for the big buttons on the right every so often. If I happen to be in a charge cycle with the generator running, and I need to shut the generator down or leave the boat, there is no way that Victron provides to let the generator cool down, and shutting it down when it is running hard is not cool. So I flip things to "Inverter Only" and that drops the load off the generator, albeit still quite quickly. I can then cool down the generator and shut it down. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/AC-loads.png) AC Loads AC Loads isn't really that useful in my setup. This data is viewable on the main screen. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/Battery-detail.png) Battery detail The battery detail page has a few more bits than the main page - mainly consumed amp hours, and the state. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/DC-system.png) DC System I have my system setup to show my "DC System" which allows me to monitor how much power is being used by the DC-DC converters that take 24 volts from my main battery bank and converts it into 12 volts for the various DC loads on the boat (you can see my overall system design at [Kaos LiFePO4 electrical system v1](https://seabits.com/kaos-lifepo4-electrical-system-v1/)) and any other native 24 volt loads. It is also showing the Lynx Shunt I have in the secondary distribution bus for my 12 volt system. I haven't figured out how I might be able to show that on the overview page or elsewhere, but it shows up here. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/mobile-overview.png) Mobile summary screen If you prefer the mobile summary screen, that one has been modified too. Lots more info all in one place. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/dc-coupled-system.png) DC Coupled System For more complex systems, there are dedicated versions of the summary screen to accommodate showing all of the inputs/outputs and data. The above example is for a DC coupled system that could include an AC charger, alternator, fuel cell, wind generator and PV charger. I think it would be interesting if you could enable/disable each of those objects - I'm guessing there's a way that I've not probably found. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/ac-coupled-system.png) AC Coupled System There's a similar version for an AC Coupled system that includes PV/solar on input/output, AC in/out loads, a wind generator and more. ## Victron VRM Push Alerts Victron VRM is an amazing way to be able to monitor your electrical system remotely, but getting alerts has always been a bit lackluster. The only method available has been via email, which is pretty limiting. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/VRM-notification-detail-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/VRM-notification-detail-2.jpeg) Now you can choose to enable "Mobile push notification" from whatever device you're connected with. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/IMG_9764.jpeg) VRM Push Notification The push notifications are pretty quick and have worked well so far. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/VRM-push-desktop-1.png) VRM Notification from desktop You can even get notifications to a browser on a computer. You can also manage other connected devices - you can see my iPhone there. Having push alerts is great as an alternate notification path, but it would sure be nice to have SMS/text and even an API that you can leverage and connect to other industry standard notification and monitoring systems. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/12/Assisting.jpeg) Gratuitous Power Assist screen shot The Victron monitoring ecosystem continues to grow, and I love the power that GuiMods provides for the displays, plus the VRM push notifications to keep me updated on alarms remotely. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 19 comments deregtd@deregtd December 17, 2022 One thing Steve didn’t mention in here that’s an even more awesome ability of the guimods framework – inline tank and temperature monitors from that main dashboard! [![image](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/51db155623620afd18627f85390530768fe73ac0.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/51db155623620afd18627f85390530768fe73ac0.png?ref=seabits.com "image") (Ignore that we’re out of fresh water – we got pumped out and emptied the fresh water tanks while we are away from the boat for a bit, so I’m pulling this up remotely over the VRM remote console. ) Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 December 17, 2022 Thanks for posting your screens and adding the details about tanks and temperatures. I have those elsewhere and like they way they are displayed, but I know of a number of folks including [@deregtd](https://seabits.com/u/deregtd) who like having all of this data on one screen. Keep packing it in! Jerry Keefe@Jerry\_Keefe December 19, 2022 Great article. Does this mean there is a way to get data from Smart Lithium batteries through the VRM? I get more data on my battery stats thru the Bluetooth interface than I do thru my Cerbo / VRM interface. I have wanted to be able to see battery temp and cell voltage data on the VRM. And my boat is 800 miles away, well beyond Bluetooth range. Mike@Mike December 20, 2022 This looks super useful! Where is the data for tank levels coming from though? I don’t remember that being part of the system but perhaps you just focused on the lifepo4 aspects in the recent article. Looking for a reliable holding tank monitor solution and would be neat if it integrated with this UX and the rest of the Victron data perhaps. Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #6 January 08, 2023 Mike, the Cerbo has inputs for up to four resistive tank sensors on its own, and you can add tank sensors of other kinds by using Victron’s GX Tank 140 sensor box, which connects to the Cerbo (or other Venus OS device using USB. A good article about it on Panbo recently: [Tank monitoring with Victron GX Tank 140, accuracy matters - Panbo](https://panbo.com/tank-monitoring-with-victron-gx-tank-140-accuracy-matters/?ref=seabits.com) Hartley S/V Atsa bearcem@bearcem April 08, 2023 Great article. I got the updated display without any issues. At some point, I would like the graphic to be able to show the Wakespeed500/Alternator as a tile. Not sure if that can be done. (My other Victron wish is to be able to prioritize PV charging over shore power when it is available and appropriate. Certainly not germane to this thread) Thanks again… Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 April 09, 2023 With the Wakespeed integration into the Lynx BMS, I wonder if it isn’t something that could be done, although it would require the Lynx I would imagine. I have both, although I’m not using the Wakespeed right now. Something to add to the list of stuff to test… Patrick@svviolethour↩ #8 September 18, 2023 [@bearcem](https://seabits.com/u/bearcem), Victron recently added a solar priority mode, if you have a Multiplus shore charger/inverter. (Google for details). Before that you could kind of achieve the same thing by changing voltages in charge profiles but it wouldn’t be as convenient. Re: Wakespeed on GuiMods - I would like that too! It looks like GuiMods already has an alternator tile (which will be hidden by default when its inactive). I haven’t started our engine up yet, but our Wakespeed is integrated with the CerboGX and shows up in the device list on the GX display. So I’m hoping it will show in GuiMods - I’ll be testing that soon. Patrick@svviolethour↩ #10 November 06, 2023 FYI the alternator does show up as a tile. Very nice (although I’d like different data displayed - I’m considering making my own GuiMods fork to customize the display data). Also worth noting: I’m turning off auto-update and would recommend not using that. GuiMods author pushed out a bug yesterday which caused the display to white screen of death (crash / not work basically). My first thought was we had a hardware issue or electrical issue. Fortunately I didn’t waste too much time investigating wiring before it magically fixed itself (about 14 hours later) when it auto-updated with the fix. Our electrical display is used daily and is a critical component so I don’t think doing updates instantly and automatically in the background (there’s no way to get notified when it happens either) is a good idea for us given how critical it is. With manual updates, we would’ve never picked up the buggy release. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #11 November 10, 2023 I had the same issue with GuiMods where my display was unusable for about a day due to the bug. White screen, no response, etc. I agree that automatic updates are probably not a good idea after seeing this! rlynch03@rlynch03 November 10, 2023 thank you for sharing this info. Do you know if the Temperatures probes plugged into my Cerbo GX will share and show on the Nema 2000 network? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #13 November 12, 2023 It looks like they don’t support that, at least [as of this article I found](https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/59623/cerbo-gx-output-n2k-from-temp-senders.html?ref=seabits.com). rlynch03@rlynch03↩ #2 November 22, 2023 I noticed some folks use wireless temperature sensors e.g., the Ruuvi Temp tags. That information is displaying on their Cerbo Dashboard. Do you know how they are doing this? deregtd@deregtd↩ #15 November 23, 2023 Ruuvi tags connect easily into the Cerbo via bluetooth. Example video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj\_aOZH2lPg](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj%5FaOZH2lPg&ref=seabits.com) Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #16 November 23, 2023 I love Ruuvi tags. I have them in various different spots that are hard to get normal wired sensors into. I’ve used both the Victron Cerbo and Signal K on a PC to gather the data, although Signal K is a bit more flaky and difficult to configure. Richard Lynch@Richard\_Lynch↩ #16 November 23, 2023 Thank you much. Thats pretty cool. Makes me want to add all sorts of other sensors. I have a few of the Bluetooth Govee Temp sensors already. Are they compatable with the Cerbo also? I am not at the boat but wasn’t able to try from here but… Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #18 November 23, 2023 I don’t think the Govee sensors are compatible with the Cerbo. Generic bluetooth sensors could potentially work with Signal K but there might be some software tweaks required to get them working. I’ve not used Govee’s temp sensors - I have a bunch of their lights aboard though. Another avenue is Home Assistant. I use it extensively for controlling lights, but it can also output pretty much anything it is gathering over to Signal K which could then put it on another network (NMEA 2000) if you wanted it to. You could use the Govee temp sensor to Home Assistant too just natively - the Home Assistant mobile app is pretty nice. rlynch03@rlynch03↩ #19 November 26, 2023 Thank you much for the info everyone. Also would like to monitor the AC Voltage on the dashboard. Would be great to see exactly what voltage the generator/Shore Power is coming in at. Is that a setting or a device I need to measure and receive that info? Thanks again Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #20 November 27, 2023 Right now the standard Victron displays won’t show that. The article this thread is about (scroll back up to the top) adding a 3rd party package to help show that. ### Starlink flat high performance in-motion dish initial impressions URL: https://seabits.com/starlink-flat-high-performance/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:00:14.000Z --- Starlink has a new dish that is interesting for the marine world. There are some pros and cons with the new option, and I've had a week or so to test with some interesting results. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/Starlink-specs-overview.png) Starlink flat high-performance dish specifications - image courtesy of Starlink The new product is Starlink flat high-performance for in-motion use (a mouthful!) and is available under the RV plan. The dish itself costs $2500 and the monthly plan is the same as the current RV offering - $135/month. You can order this via [Starlink](https://www.starlink.com/rv?ref=seabits.com) and [Winegard](https://winegard.com/starlink?ref=seabits.com) \- this is the first time that Starlink has offered their products through a 3rd party reseller. I ordered mine through Winegard. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/1.jpeg) The kit comes with the wedge mount box (small box on top) and the dish box The dish itself is meant to be mounted using the included wedge mount kit on a flat surface. Cabling then routes from the front edge of the dish to a power supply, and the power supply is connected either directly to your own router, or the supplied Starlink router. ## Benefits Here are the benefits Starlink lists with the flat high-performance in-motion dish. My comments are in *italics*. - **Usable In-motion** \- you can use it while you are moving. This is supposed to be enabled via the better GPS, which can find more satellites, and the flat mounting which has a wider scan angle. *This is great to have a fully supported and optimized dish to use while underway.* - **Optimal Uptime** \- designed to connect to satellites at a lower horizon angle which results in increased reliability, particularly in extreme environments. Additionally, the effect of "rain fade" during storms is reduced, increasing your uptime. *Having more satellites will definitely help keep a better signal. Rain fade is also a real thing and with flat-mounted RV/Residential dishes, really reduces performance. This will definitely be nice in my region where it tends to rain a lot.* - **Improved Weather Resistance** \- rated IP56, meaning it is resistant to water jets. Additionally, it performs better in hot weather, with download speeds typically 3x better at 95 degrees F when compared to the standard alternative. It also provides 1.7x better snow melt capability. *Improved weather resistance is always a good thing, and IP56 covers sea water and jets of water, but not your boat detailer using a pressure washer or nozzle close up. The better hot weather performance is definitely a plus, but I'm not sure if I needed more snow melt capability - seems like the existing capabilities were fine, but I suppose now that it's flat, it might need more to keep it free and clear?* - **Better Satellite Visibility** \- it can see 35% more sky, allowing it to connect to more satellites and better serve users with atypical installations, unavoidable obstructions, or in polar (>59 degrees latitude) and equatorial regions where there are fewer visible satellites. *This seems like it would help while underway and at anchor, as well as if you are in extreme latitudes, which are all good things.* You can find [detailed specifications here](https://www.starlink.com/specifications?spec=3&ref=seabits.com) and [here](https://api.starlink.com/public-files/Starlink%20Product%20Specifications%5FFlatHighPerformance.pdf?ref=seabits.com). ## Dish The dish is similar (not going to say the same given there are minor differences that have been identified) to the high performance business dish and/or Maritime dishes. The high performance business dish has motors and a stand and pole, which this dish does not have. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/4.jpeg) Flat high performance in motion dish with iPhone Pro for scale The dish weighs in at 13 pounds without the cable, according to the specifications. The front edge of the dish is where the cable connects via a snap-in connector, but I would like to see more waterproofing here since it will be facing forwards. I really don't know why they chose to do it this way - something off of the back or underneath seems like it would have been a lot better for weatherproofing, as well as not quite so ugly when you see it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/5.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/6.jpeg) The sides of the dish taper down at different angles, and the back has built in bolt holes for the mounting bolts that connect to the wedge mount. One other thing to note in terms of waterproofing is that there are only 3 tiny holes right in the center of the back of the dish. If you have looked at the other dishes, there are quite a few more holes along the edges of the dish, so hopefully that means there is less ability for water and corrision to get into this one. Only time will tell. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/7.jpeg) There is also a really nice piece of cardboard that could be used as a template for mounting, except..... it really can't. It has has holes for the back of the dish, but has no references for the wedge mount. The cardboard is useful to at least see the size of the dish along with the portion of the dish that would touch a mounting surface, but that's about it. You can't use it to figure out where the holes for the wedge mount go, so I don't really see how this template is that useful. Perhaps it was meant for another purpose... ## Wedge Mount Kit The wedge mount kit is a powder coated aluminum with holes both for the dish, and to mount it to a flat surface. There is also a hole for a cable gland, and pads on the top of the mount to cushion the dish. If you want to read installation details, you can [find a PDF here](https://api.starlink.com/public-files/WedgeMountGuide%5FMobileHP%5FEnglish.pdf?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/2.jpeg) The kit is surprisingly complete with three different types of mounting to your surface - lag bolts, through bolts and blind hole nuts - thread locker, sealant, rubber washers, stainless steel washers, and a cable gland and related hardware and install details. The wedge mount itself makes it relatively easy to get the dish on it - the bottom two holes use shoulder bolts that you install with thread locker before you put the dish on the mount, and they slide right in and lock. You can then take your time to put the upper two bolts in through the back. I appreciated this while crouching out on my brow doing the installation. The neoprene pads are likely there to help with the dish rubbing on the aluminum. I doubt they attenuate much vibration, but maybe they help a bit there too. I'm really happy by the hardware they provide to mount things - usually you're looking around for parts or making trips to stores to get everything installed, and that shouldn't be the case here. However, I really wish they had chosen to use a different color for the powder coating on the mount. Dark powder coat shows up more than white would have, and likely will have lasted longer in the sun. ## Power Supply & Router ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/3.jpeg) From upper left to right: ethernet cable to bypass WiFI router, power supply, WiFi router The WiFi router is the same as the one provided with most other Starlink products. The one difference here versus the RV and Residential models is that it comes with a wall mounting bracket. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/ps-front.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/ps-back.jpeg) This system has a dedicated power supply that is separate from the router. It is quite a beefy bit of hardware, and comes with a mounting bracket as well. It has 3 connections - one for AC power, one to provide power to the dish, and one to connect to the router. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/IMG_9324-1.jpeg) ⚠️ Cable alert: The included cable from the power supply to the dish is only 25 feet long. Extension cables are not available right now, so plan your install carefully. The cables are thicker than the RV/Residential dish and in almost all cases use **different ends or connectors**. You can't re-use cabling from existing dishes of that vintage. The new cables are also thicker most likely due to the increased power demands, so you're stuck using the cables included, and if you have the original dish, re-running things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/IMG_9418.jpeg) Cable connection on the front of the dish If you do not want to use the Starlink router, a cable is provided to go from the power supply directly to your own router or other devices. The fact that this is included is excellent \- you don't have to buy an ethernet adapter or other pieces. I used this in my installation to connect the power supply directly to my Peplink router. I did initially setup the dish with the provided WiFi router, but then enabled Bypass Mode and connected things directly. ## Mounting Getting the dish mounted is easier than some of the crazy machinations we've all done for the RV/residential system, but it is not perfect. The wedge mount isn't marine focused and doesn't have hole patterns or other things that match other common brackets or setups. I had two potential places to install the dish - on the radar arch mount where my current residential Starlink is mounted, or on the brow in front of the flybridge. The 25 foot included cable between the power supply and dish was going to be an issue for the radar arch, but I also had a lot of challenges coming up with enough real estate for the wedge mount at that location. I was also a little concerned about having \~13 pounds of dish that high up and exposed and mounted as a wing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/5461A4C7-F6BB-43C9-A13E-EBF37407BF55.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/IMG_9155.jpeg) I test mounted the dish using a heavy weighted bag holding the wedge mount on the brow for 24 hours and things worked perfectly - no obstructions, good performance, and no other issues. After that successful test, I used through bolts and some spacers to ensure the wedge mount was completely level, and permanently mounted it in that spot. The cable is still coming in through the flybridge windows, but that will get routed in a few weeks if this thing is a keeper... ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/Kaos-flat-forward.jpeg) Dishy mounted on forward brow Based on the [specifications](https://www.starlink.com/specifications?spec=3&ref=seabits.com), the 140 degree view has the dish being blocked partially by my bimini, but I don't see anything in the obstruction report or notice any outages or issues as a result. If there are longer term issues, I can relocate it to the very top of my mast arch once the longer cables come out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/IMG_9417.jpeg) Front view of mounted dish ## Power Usage Power usage is definitely higher for this dish over the smaller ones, as you would expect. On a rectangular Residential or RV dish with the motors disabled and the ethernet adapter from the Starlink router to my Peplink router, with WiFi disabled on the Starlink router, is about 35 watts on average. Specifications say 50-75 watts, but I suspect that is with the router's WiFi on. Using the high performance dish with the power supply only (no Starlink WiFi router) connected via ethernet to my Peplink router, I saw an average of 85 watts. That's more than 2x increase in power usage. Specifications say 110-150 watts but that likely includes the WiFi router too. What was also different with the high performance dish is the spikiness of the power usage. The rectangular dish is pretty stable at 35 watts, sometimes going up to 50 watts if it's working hard, but pretty regular. With the high performance dish, I routinely saw spikes up to 100 watts during normal usage, 120 watts during speed tests, and a whopping 210 watts during boot times and when it is searching. Admittedly, these weren't for long periods of time, but it was still a lot more than I was used to seeing from the rectangular dish. Overall, you will need to plan for at least 2x power usage over the standard dish, if not more after you average in the spikes. I would say a budget of 100 watts is a good place to start, which is considerable if you are on a power budget. ## Performance ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/app-icon.jpeg) The Starlink iOS app shows a different dish icon matching the flat mount Overall the performance of the dish has been good in all conditions. I've not seen dramatically higher throughput or lower latency as a result of the bigger dish, and that's not unexpected. What has been much better is connectivity underway and at anchor - this is one of the main selling points of the dish. It has stayed connected where the RV and Residential dishes disconnect either due to the speed limitation, or the conditions in general. ``` Nov 11 15:26:10 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) standby Nov 11 14:22:33 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) disconnected Nov 11 14:11:21 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) standby Nov 11 13:07:44 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) disconnected Nov 11 11:32:21 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) standby Nov 11 11:00:32 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) disconnected Nov 11 10:45:45 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) standby Nov 11 10:13:55 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) disconnected Nov 11 10:08:03 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) standby Nov 11 09:35:12 WAN: Starlink (Priority 2) disconnected ``` Peplink router log entries from trip showing standard Starlink disconnecting One of my first tests was going from Seattle to Reid Harbor in the San Juan Islands, a trip of 79 nautical miles over 6 hours. There were lots of course changes, dodging fishing boats and ferries, and speeds from dead slow through the marina, 10 knots normal speed, and 16 knots for an hour or two to beat the waning daylight. I had both the flat high-performance dish and a standard RV dish (with motors disabled and flat mounted) running during the trip. The flat high-performance dish never disconnected, while the standard RV dish disconnected 5 times. Some of those times may actually have been due to the speed limitation - I was going about 10 knots most of the time, but sped up twice to 16 knots which almost always triggers the speed lockouts. Over the last few months, I've seen the standard RV/Residential dishes (I have both) with motors disabled disconnect at anchor when rotating during a tide or wind change, underway, and in other situations. I suspect the narrower field of view combined with the less accurate GPS have something to do with it. So far, the high performance dish has not disconnected at all while at anchor, underway, or at the dock. There have been some short network interruptions, but those have happened at the same time on the other dishes, so I consider those system issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/IMG_9174-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/IMG_9175-1.jpeg) The flat high-performance dish has remained connected for a week now without any significant outages, obstructions or otherwise. That's better than anything I've seen out of the RV or standard dish. Even the dishes I have with the motors disconnected don't perform as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/IMG_9176-1.jpeg) Starlink high performance dish outages There are still outages listed in the 0.1s+ tab - mostly "network issue" with a few "no signal received". They are as defined: - Network Issue - a problem between the satellite and the internet occurred. This issue should resolve itself. - No Signal Received - your Starlink had trouble talking to the satellite. This issue should resolve itself. "Network Issue" sounds like an issue with their infrastructure that isn't specific to my dish. Could be that the cell I'm in is also oversubscribed I suppose. "No Signal Received" could definitely be because I'm moving or the quality of my connection, but it was for such a short amount of time it likely didn't affect anything. Compared to the RV/Residential dish I have aboard, the frequency at which these happen are much lower with the high performance dish, and it stays connected almost continually, so I can't complain. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/image.png) However, and this a big however, this dish still relies on the RV plan. That means, according to Starlink's most recent [Fair Use Policy](https://www.starlink.com/legal/documents/DOC-1134-82708-70?ref=seabits.com), that this plan will be the absolute last priority when it comes to congested areas. Seattle is one of those areas, and Elliott Bay Marina is a perfect example of how the RV plan is unusable in a lot of cases. The marina has really terrible cellular coverage in most of the slips, so Starlink seems like a godsend. Unfortunately during most working hours and weekdays, the RV plan will slow down considerably, with upload speeds hovering around 1-2Mbps - not enough for a good quality Zoom or Teams meeting. [Using Starlink with PeplinkHaving a Peplink router with a cellular modem paired with Starlink is essential for reliable connectivity aboard the boat.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/All-the-connections-1.png)](https://seabits.com/using-starlink-with-peplink/) I still highly recommend that you pair cellular with Starlink if you want completely reliable service for coastal cruising. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/11/bad-starlink.png) Starlink HP performance in Friday Harbor While visiting Friday Harbor, a relatively populated area on San Juan Island, I was getting absolutely terrible performance from both the standard RV and high performance dishes, around 2Mbps up and down. The residential dish did slightly better, but it was also using the portability feature as I was not in my home area. I switched over to cellular to keep things connected and working. Keep this in mind when you consider your use case. While the dish is designed to stay connected all of the time, in-motion, and at anchor, when you're back at your home marina, or even visiting a populated marina, you may need to switch over to cellular to keep things flowing. That's a bit disappointing for a $2500 dish, but the target market is for RV'ers and boaters who are in the middle of nowhere, which is where it is irreplaceable. ## Should You Buy It? This is a bit more complex to answer than yes/no. There are two factors involved - whether you need to be connected all the time / more reliably, and the unknown changes that Starlink will likely make. If you need to be connected while moving and at anchor more reliably, then this dish is a great solution for you. It will stay connected while you are underway and is approved for in-motion use. At anchor, it has a much better chance of always staying connected for the same reasons, and doesn't require any funky mounting. But why would you spend $2500 on a dish when you can get the standard RV dish for $599? I can think of a couple of reasons. First is the mounting - to get the best performance out of the rectangular RV dish, you need to disable the motors and either buy a mount or figure something out yourself. That could add $0-500 depending on the choice of mount and work. So your total cost could be around $1000 by the time you're done modifying the RV unit, not to mention the time you have to invest. So you're paying for a dish that has a better mounting system and better overall signal for use cases on a boat. The bigger concern is around what Starlink will do next. There have been many changes over the last year to plans, usage, and many other aspects of a Starlink setup. I believe it is likely that they will start enforcing in-motion use of non-in-motion dishes even more aggressively than they have before. A recent software/firmware update a month or so ago meant that if you went faster than 10MPH or 8.7 knots, the dish disconnected itself. One of my RV dishes does this while the other does not. This could mean that your standard $599 RV dish will not work underway at the minimum, or maybe more. I suspect with how busy their networks are, how oversold capacity is, and how popular things are in general that we will see more changes even as early as December 2022 when the fair use policy and data caps roll out. It's anyones best guess what those changes will be. Should you buy the $2500 dish? Depends on your needs for connectivity, and whether you want something that is supported for in-motion use and less likely to be messed with when Starlink gets around to it. If you already have the standard RV dish, then it's not likely worth the investment until they shut those off (if they do). Also, remember that I've only had this for a bit over a week - if you're an early adopter, you know the pitfalls of using new stuff. If you can wait, I would and see how things fare after the Fair Use Policy stuff rolls out in December, and how this dish is working several months after that. ## Conclusion I'm glad we finally have an in-motion approved dish that isn't outrageously priced. And before you start saying that $2500 is a lot, compare it to existing satellite systems that start at $10,000, or your last oil change, yard bill, or the like. Yes, $2500 is a lot for technology that is new and likely to be outdated in a couple of years, but if you want the latest and greatest, you have to pay for it. Also, remember what this is getting you - connectivity in places that were only a dream for most of us recreational boaters even a year ago! We've been using a loop hole with the current RV and Residential products that you had to realize was going to change - Starlink is a startup company looking to show profitability, and they'll want to make as much money off of whatever market they go into. This dish is likely to be their answer for the recreational marine market for a while. So far, I'm pretty happy with the flat high-performance in-motion dish in terms of performance and how well it stays connected. I'm disappointed that the only plan you can use it with is the RV version, but it should work just fine out where there is no cellular service, I just wish they'd chosen a shorter name for the thing. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 17 comments Redwoodtree@redwoodtree November 18, 2022 Steve, a comprehensive and informative post as always. You hit on every point! We are running the RV version and loving it. But if they shut it off for profit (during motion, no matter how slow) we will be very disappointed. The issue: how the heck (where the heck) can I mount this on my sailboat ? I don’t even mind paying if I had to because it’s a total game changer, but I just can’t think of where I can mount it we don’t have an arch. A real head scratcher. Maybe I’ll have to install a rail mount fish tray and bolt it to that! Lol. Helmsman@Helmsman November 18, 2022 Steve, Thanks for the Starlink Flat Panel Review. You mentioned in your article about the issue with the cable mounted forward. What would prevent a person from just flipping the Starlink backwards on the mount? That way the cable would enter the dish on the aft side of it. Looking at the angle of the cut out for the cable in the dish, there might be some water left standing in it, but some dielectric grease may resolve that. Massimo\_Sirolla@Massimo\_Sirolla November 18, 2022 Many thanks for this fantastic review Steve. When will you test Starlink offshore? I’d really like to know how far from the coast it works, or even if it can work in the middle of the ocean (probably not). Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 November 18, 2022 redwoodtree: > But if they shut it off for profit (during motion, no matter how slow) we will be very disappointed. A lot of people will be in the same situation, but the Terms of Service do clearly state that you’re not supposed to be using it while in motion so… Hopefully even if they do that, it would still work at anchor at least. redwoodtree: > The issue: how the heck (where the heck) can I mount this on my sailboat ? I don’t even mind paying if I had to because it’s a total game changer, but I just can’t think of where I can mount it we don’t have an arch. A real head scratcher. Yeah that’s something I’ve been thinking about for the last week or so. Even on some power boats, it will be hard to find a spot where you can flat mount a 23x20 square without much being in its way. Putting it on a smaller pole like what folks have been doing with the current one probably won’t work given the size and weight. Seaview have some mounts that could handle it, but they’re quite a bit bigger. Helmsman: > What would prevent a person from just flipping the Starlink backwards on the mount? That way the cable would enter the dish on the aft side of it. Looking at the angle of the cut out for the cable in the dish, there might be some water left standing in it, but some dielectric grease may resolve that. Given how angled the entry point is, a lot of water would gather in it. I’m trying to think why you couldn’t mount it backwards, and there’s something that makes me think it wouldn’t be possible, but I’m not sure why. I have serious concerns about the cable and weatherproofing in general, so I think I’d rather keep it facing forwards AND fill it with dielectric grease - that’s actually something I was just chatting with someone about. That way if water did get in, it would drip out. Massimo\_Sirolla: > When will you test Starlink offshore? I’d really like to know how far from the coast it works, or even if it can work in the middle of the ocean (probably not). I won’t be testing it in the open ocean - I am a coastal cruiser. Many others have tested the standard dish offshore, as well as the Maritime dish, which is the same as this one, has been used by many large ships and yachts offshore without any issues. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 November 18, 2022 [![IMG_9425](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/a227aa3cb1462ca1110395d2bec11886139b1838.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/a227aa3cb1462ca1110395d2bec11886139b1838.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "IMG_9425") Speaking of cable concerns… I was underway today for about 1.5 hours, had a few waves I was dealing with, and some spray, although I doubt the water hit the Starlink. Nevertheless, when I arrived at the anchorage, I got this alert in the app that I’ve never seen before. I looked at the cabling, and didn’t see anything obvious, so I powered everything down, unplugged and reconnected everything, and it appears to be working fine. Even with the alert, I was still getting normal performance… So we will see how this goes… Wdeertz@Wdeertz↩ #7 December 24, 2022 Steve, great article. I am considering a similar setup on my raised pilothouse trawler. I’ve read conflicting information regarding starlink and radar. I’d like to mount the flat starlink dish on the forward part of my pilothouse roof. This will be out of the direct path of the radar beam but will be below it. The radar is a 4Kw 4’ open aray radar. The starlink dish would be about 12 ft forward and 5ft below the radar. Looking at your photos it looks like your flat dish would be below the radar. Did you try your setup while underway and with the radar operating? If so what were the results? Thanks Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 December 24, 2022 Starlink is definitely affected by radar. In my article a few months ago [Starlink is finally useful aboard](https://seabits.com/starlink-finally-useful-aboard/) I covered some of the testing I had done with the rectangular dishes around this. In general, they seem to be affected by *most* brands of modern radar that are labeled broadband, digital, etc. - not the older magnetron-style version. I’ve tested it with Raymarine, Simrad & Furuno and have seen this happen. Some folks have seen it with Garmin, while others have not. As long as the dish is out of the beam angle of the radar, you should be fine. I have three Starlink dishes mounted aboard right now. Two are above the radar and right near it, so they’re out of the beam, and the big flat high performance dish is on the brow, below the beam angle. Most radars have a total of 22 degrees of beam angle right out of the radar, 12.5 degrees up and down. I’ve dealt with at least 50 other installs who have calculated this and worked around it. It’s also pretty easy to just throw the dish somewhere temporarily and kick the radar on to see what happens. Wdeertz@Wdeertz December 24, 2022 Steve, thanks, your feedback is consistent with what I’m hearing from the FB starlink group. My current radar is an older magnetron radar but I plan on adding a digital radar soon so will need to consider when mounting the starlink dish. So what I’m hearing is that starlink works for either digital or magnetron radars so long as it’s not in the direct radar beam, did I understand that correctly? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 January 04, 2023 Magnetron radars don’t seem to cause issues with it that I’ve heard of. The newer digital/broadband radars are the issue, and as long as you keep the dish out of the 22 degree beam angle of the radar, you should be fine. Easy way to test it is to throw the dish up where you want to mount it temporarily, turn it on, and kick the radar on. You’ll know within seconds if it is in a bad spot! Kurt Hanson@MV\_Alpenglow\_Boat January 30, 2023 Steve - Great write-up (as usual)! I am considering the FHP dish and want to install its wedge mount to a chunk of starboard (or something similar) which would be affixed to the aft SS rail of the boat deck using the Magma “Dual Horizontal Round Standard Rail Mount”. I am trying to find out the dimensions of the bottom hole pattern of the wedge mount to get an idea of how big the starboard has to be to accommodate the wedge mount and the Magma rail mounts. The Starlink manual only gives the dimensions of FHP dish mounting holes. I’ve also looked at the 3-D drawing for the wedge mount but while giving a rotating model of the mount, no dimensions are shown. When you used the wedge mount to template the permanent mounting on your boat’s brow did you record the hole pattern dimensions? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 February 12, 2023 Great question! I did not, but the bracket is slightly smaller than the overall dish if that gives you a starting point. I might be able to get under it to get some basic measurements, but I wouldn’t be able to get hole measurements easily… Kurt Hanson@MV\_Alpenglow\_Boat↩ #13 February 15, 2023 Thanks for responding. I did receive a diagram from Winegard after contacting their support (very quick response). The bottom hole pattern is 9.2 inches wide by 5.6 inches long (based on direction of the wedge). The diagram didn’t include the dimensions of the bottom plate but, as you suggest, the other known dimensions suggest it is around 10 inches square. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 February 15, 2023 Awesome, thanks for sharing the dimensions! Hawgwld@Hawgwld March 07, 2023 Steve, I always appreciate your articles and insights! I have a couple of questions. I installed FHP dish today with a Peplink BR1Pro 5G. I noticed you said you started your install with the Starlink wifi router, then set it in bypass and pulled it out of the loop, direct to Peplink? What’s the reason to use the Starlink wifi router to start? I went straight to the Peplink and it connected and started communicating right away. I can’t use the Starlink app, apparently I need a static route. Second part, I use a separate wifi router connected to the Peplink LAN to secure my devices from the internet. Since I am connecting to it I am guessing I’ll need a static route there to get the Starlink app to work? Thank you for all your articles. john@john March 14, 2023 Regarding the Starlink high performance in motion dish ($2,500). I realize that the unit is being installed on boats, but does Starlink specifically say that the unit is acceptable to use on boats. Their geo fencing is beginning to affect boaters using the standard RV dish on the eastern seaboard, and some have reported service outages. I’m reaching out to friends in Alaska who commercial fish to see if the geo fencing is affecting their use yet. It would be nice to know that the high performance dish is allowed on lakes, waterways, near coastal, and outside of 10 nm. Any response would be helpful… Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #17 March 15, 2023 The older terms of service and FAQs mentioned using the in-motion dish on a boat, but it was not in all places, and wasn’t a resounding “approval” that you could use it on a boat in any condition. With the recent launch of Starlink Roam, which replaces the RV plan, there is a lot of confusion around acceptable usage including whether it is OK to have a dish on the Starlink Roam plan on a boat, and the very clear messages in their FAQ that these plans are now geofenced to land only. Standard RV dishes have had service outages even before the Roam plan. I have one that routinely stops working as soon as I pass 8 knots, which they started enforcing a number of months ago. I have two others that work fine, and I have a mix of customers and friends who have the same result - some working, others stopping at 8 knots. No one has said that an RV/Roam dish of either the rectangular or flat high performance kind isn’t working when at rest, whether in a marina or at anchor. Are you hearing of reports of folks seeing these dishes not working at all unless they are firmly up on land, or just while underway? Warp10@Warp10 March 19, 2023 Steve, For the benefit of some of your members, we ordered the High Performance to our Boston address, we did initialized it while in the USA, then carried it with us to our boat in French Polynesia. This is not an area that is supported by Starlink at this time, so I was a bit apprehensive, but it is working amazingly well, despite the fact that we have to rely on laser link satellites V1.5+ only from this location. I did ask Starlink to be put on the Global Roaming, they said that this was not possible on the HP antenna yet, but since it works (at the moment), I am not going to raise hell. We are about to leave for American Samoa and/or Tonga very soon, both areas that are supposed to get service very soon (from the Fiji land station). We should be able to also report on its stability/availability above 8 knots. Cheers, Pierre ### Kaos LiFePO4 electrical system v1 URL: https://seabits.com/kaos-lifepo4-electrical-system-v1/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:10:33.000Z --- Kaos came with an electrical system that I wanted to completely replace. After lot of design and prototyping, version 1 of the new system has been in place for 6 months and is working extremely well. ## The Existing System The original system was a pretty typical setup that needed some updates. There were OK groups of batteries for the main engine start bank, generator, and thruster. They were being charged in weird ways, and the thruster batteries were as far as possible from the actual thruster, but they worked reasonably well. There was a house bank and an inverter bank, both using the same style of GC2 6 volt flooded batteries. The house bank was 6x of these located in the engine room, and were responsible for all DC 12 volt loads - lights, pumps, instruments, and also some heavy loads including the windlass and dinghy davit. The inverter bank was in the lazarette and consisted of 8x of the same GC2 6 volt batteries connected directly to a Magnum MS2812 inverter that powered all outlets throughout the boat, the refrigerator, and the microwave. In total, I had the following capacity: - House bank - 705 amp hours, 353 usable - Inverter bank - 940 amp hours, 470 usable Those are pretty typical numbers for this type of system, but really low for a boat this size, and definitely not the capacity I want for the future. The biggest problem with the existing system was age. The house batteries were from 2015 and well past their usable lifetime. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/46ADE004-2630-41E3-A9C1-99F14BB9CF94_1_105_c.jpeg) Existing house bank - 6x 6 volt GC2 flooded batteries in the engine room Within the first week of owning the boat, I determined the house bank was actually worse off than originally thought. It couldn't even last a 2 hour inaugural cruise from Anacortes to Friday Harbor without dipping below 11 volts and causing issues. I ended up having to run the generator the whole time underway - not a long term plan. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Old-batteries-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Old-batteries-2.jpeg) Old and new flooded batteries. While in Friday Harbor, I ended up having to replace all 6 of the house batteries in order to continue using the boat reliably for the next couple of months while I finished the design. Even with new batteries, this sort of configuration is not optimal - having the house and inverter banks separated is a throwback to when boats had limited or no inverter power, and one was added. It adds inefficiencies and more complexity. Kaos also had an automatic charging relay (ACR) that was installed to combine the house and inverter bank which allowed for slightly better balancing, but really confusing charging results. With this setup, my average generator run time was between 4-5 hours per day, sometimes more depending on what was going on. I also had reverse engineered the AC panel and shore power connections and found some concerning things. Open grounds, weird wiring for the 50 amp 240 volt input connector, etc. After a lot of review, I wanted to simplify the way the panel was setup as much as possible, and re-do the wiring for the shore power side of the world to make sure it was more reliable and safe. ## New System Goals The main goals with the new system were: - Single bank for inverter / house loads - More amp hour capacity - Shorter generator run time / faster charging - More inverter power / all AC loads on inverter (stretch goal) - Better visibility and control ## 48 Volt Discovery One of the most interesting things I investigated was using 48 volt batteries as the core of the system. I had been watching the market and various products that had become available since my previous boat [Rendezvous LiFePO4 power system](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/), and had liked the idea of having a more dense, efficient battery bank at a higher voltage. I spent a lot of time on forums, talking to experts, and even deeper dives with boaters that already have 48 volt systems. This included folks like [Peter Kennedy at PKYS](https://shop.pkys.com/?ref=seabits.com), a Victron expert and a very accomplished ABYC Marine Electrician, and boater David de Regt on Highwind who had installed a [48 volt system aboard his boat](https://www.highwind.fun/2021/04/16/48v-lithium-power-system/?ref=seabits.com), and a handful of others. What I found was a good core of products that work with 48 volt systems, but key pieces that are a challenge in some way. For example, there are only a handful of 48 volt alternators and the cheapest ones I found were in the $2000-3000 range. Other challenges included converting 48 volts to 12 volts, which I needed for my existing DC system. Finding solutions to do this was the biggest challenge in the design, and proved to be almost impossible without relying on brand new technology that was even too bleeding edge for me, or using other solutions which weren't meant to be used for this sort of system. Finding batteries was a bit of a challenge as well. None of the mainline marine vendors produce a 48 volt battery, which means either combining a couple of 24 volt batteries, or choosing less mainstream options. Finally, there are challenges with ABYC and other regulations around 48 volts, although some have improved in recent months. Many of the regulations end their approvals at 48 volts, which was an issue for any system since the charging rates for a 48 volt system are actually higher. Ultimately, I decided that going for a 48 volt system was too risky for Kaos at this point in time. Maybe in the future! ## 24 Volt System I settled on a basic design around a 24 volt battery bank with 24 volt inverters. Using 24 volts instead of 12 creates a problem, and solves another. The problem it creates is that the rest of the boat's DC system is still 12 volts, and I'm not changing all of that. There are some solutions to that, which are covered in my design further below. The problem this solves is the cabling and charging challenges found with 12 volt LiFePO4 systems of any decent size. This is a common issue I see in designs particularly around cabling. A common cabling size used for big battery banks and inverters is 4/0 AWG. ABYC says that a single conductor, used in an engine room, at 105 degrees C, not bundled, sheathed, or in conduit has a max ampacity of 378.3 amps. That same size wire in a group of three, sheathed, bundled, or in conduit drops to 264.8 amps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_6273.jpeg) Some of the 100+ pounds of wire used in the new system A common design using dual Victron Quattro inverters is a great way to illustrate the challenges here. - 12 volt Victron Quattro 5000W 120V AC inverter - max charge per unit - 200 amps. 2x units = 400 amps. - 24 volt Victron Quattro 5000W 120V AC inverter - max charge per unit - 120 amps. 2x units = 240 amps. Depending on how you wire the 12 volt system, you could end up needing two 4/0 AWG conductors to carry 400 amps safely, and if you do that, they could technically need to be individually fused - again, depending on the design. If they are individually fused, you could also need to somehow disable the inverter/link/wiring if one fuse fails, otherwise you'd have the full load on one wire. This is just an example with an inverter - if you throw alternators or other charging devices in the mix, you could end up with a lot more to deal with, and trying to do that at 12 volts is becoming more and more challenging. 24 volts just makes a lot more sense from the cabling and charging world, and there are a lot of products and solutions available for this voltage. ## Vendor Choice While I have been a Victron convert for the last couple of boats ([Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) & [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/)), I try to stay current on what all of the other vendors in the space are doing. I had worked on many MasterVolt systems in the distant past, and really like the quality of their equipment, but they have a gap with monitoring and management compared to Victron. Outback was the other vendor I spent a lot of time reviewing this time around, and have loved their rock-solid inverters for years. They also have pretty terrible management, and were missing other features that I wanted around redundancy, so they weren't a choice. Most of my experience with customers and my own boats in the last 5 years has been around Victron. They have a lot of great features, but they design things like engineers, for engineers. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it can mean a lot of work to figure out moderately complex configurations, and unclear documentation about how things work. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Overview-VRM.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Historical-VRM.png) Nevertheless, I had become addicted to features like Power Assist, the online VRM portal, and the lovely GX-series screens and data that you can see about your power system. So Victron it was.... ## Drop-In vs. Normal LiFePO4 On Rendezvous, I used [Battle Born GC2 batteries](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/), a drop-in LiFePO4 battery. On Grace, I used [Victron's LiFePO4 batteries](https://seabits.com/installing-and-using-a-victron-lifepo4-energy-system/). The difference between these types of batteries has been a topic of discussion before on my site, as well as many other places, and have their pros and cons. [Victron + Wakespeed + Battle Born power systemI upgrade my power system with Battle Born batteries, Balmar alternators, and Wakespeed regulators to give me way more power and longer time at anchor.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Battle-Borns-1.jpg)](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/) [Installing and using a Victron LiFePO4 energy systemWith my LiFePO4 power design complete, I was excited to install and use the new system for most of this sailing season. The installation took longer than a traditional battery installation, and had more complexity, but turned out to be a fantastic setup for the longer trips I went on this summer.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/CCGX-250amp-inverting-1.jpg)](https://seabits.com/installing-and-using-a-victron-lifepo4-energy-system/) I really liked the simplicity that the Battle Born batteries provided, but there was little visibility into what was going on with each battery. The form factors are also pretty limited - G31, GC2, and 8D - and I wanted a bit more choice. A lot of the traditional LiFePO4 batteries from Victron, Mastervolt, and others are not as energy dense as I would like, and are really expensive. However, around the beginning of 2022, Victron released a new "-a" battery that matched my needs, and with some serious discounts, they were comparable to drop-in pricing. Additionally, they were a better form factor and weight, so I was sold on using these for my design. ## Design ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Kaos-Electrical-1.png) The final design took a while to settle on both during the design phase, and during implementation. I'm a huge fan of iterative design, and always prefer refining a design or a system over time to make sure it is as efficient and effective as possible. In the case of this system, I made a few changes while installing things after being able to test some of the configurations in the real world. I'll try to break apart the major components of the system below and describe the installation and design. ### House Batteries Victron released a newer version of their 24 volt, 200 amp hour LiFePO4 battery around the time I was doing my installation. They are the LFP-Smart 25.6/200-a model and are quite a bit nicer than the previous versions. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/bat1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/bat3.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/bat2.jpeg) Victron LFP-Smart 25.6/200-a LiFePO4 batteries They are smaller than the previous version, lighter, and have a more thoughtful form factor (in my opinion). I ended up getting 5x of these for a total of 1000 amp hours at 24 volts. They are well built, have really nice handles, big bolts and connection points, and built in cables to connecto to the BMS. The existing system was 470 usable amp hours at 12 volts, or 823 usable amp hours if you added in the DC bank, although I never got that out of the system. If you convert the new system to 12 volts, it would be 2000 amp hours which is 1177 more amp hours of capacity. Definitely an upgrade! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_7607.jpeg) Victron Connect iOS app monitoring the batteries I was able to install the new batteries in the engine room in roughly the same space as the original 6x GC2 batteries, although oriented slightly a different way. That replaces the 6x GC2 house bank and the 8x GC2 batteries in the lazarette that were used by the old inverter. ### Inverter / Chargers ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/inverters1.jpeg) Two 24 volt DC, 120 volt AC, 5000W Victron Quattro inverters I chose Victron's Quattro inverters for the design because of their general charging and overall capacity, and ability to deal with two AC input sources. The original inverter was only 3000W, and I knew that I would need a lot more capacity if all AC loads were going to move to inverter. Charging was also a big reason to select these inverters as each one is capable of producing 120 amps of 24v DC. Combining them would provide a maximum of 240 amps of synchronized DC charging to the 1000 amp hour bank. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/gen-full.jpeg) Victron GX showing generator charging & AC loads At that charging rate, it would require about 50 amps of AC power. My generator is a 13kW Kohler 120 volt AC model and a maximum of 100 amps of AC. I don't want to run it at more than 80% load or 80 amps of AC, so around 50 amps being dedicated to charging is pretty good. That leaves 20-30 amps of AC power for other loads such as the water maker, and the 5-10 amps of normal AC usage. ### Parallel vs Split Phase Inverters This was one of the biggest experimentation areas for the whole design. The boat came with a 50 amp shore power inlet wired where each phase went to a different part of the panel, but was not wired correctly. Since the boat only has 120 volt AC appliances throughout, and there's no real plan to change that to 240 volt in the short term, I was open to different setups. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_6360.jpeg) Kohler wiring diagram to convert between 120 / 240 volts The other wild card was the 13kW Kohler generator. It came wired as a 120 volt AC system, but I had hopes that I could convert it to 240 volt AC given that I knew of two other people with the same unit who had that configuration already. Unfortunately, after a week of experimentation, I was not able to get it to work correctly at 240 volts, and even had a [thread on Trawler Forum](https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s4/problems-changing-kohler-13-5ccoz-output-120-240-a-63344.html?ref=seabits.com) looking for advice. I was trying to get both shore power and generator to provide 240 volt AC power with two phases. That would allow me to maintain two separate AC sections on the main panel, each having a phase of power providing 50 amps of 120 volts. This would mean that the inverters would be configured in split phase mode, with each one handling one phase of the incoming power, and capable of outputting both 120 and 240 volts if I wanted. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_8993.jpeg) Unfortunately, due to the generator being stuck at 120 volts, I couldn't do that. But it actually worked out better than I could have hoped. One of my goals was to put as much as possible on inverted power so that there was less messing around turning on/off the generator and circuit breakers when someone needed to run some appliance. In addition, I wanted to make it as simple as possible to run it and not have to worry about balancing phases. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Split-v-parallel-system.png) Split Phase vs Parallel system - courtesy of PKYS As a result, I configured the inverters to be in parallel which allows for a few benefits: - Simpler system - less complexity than having multiple phases, breakers, etc. - Single AC output to the panel - less work to balance phases, all inverter power is available to the entire panel and not split There is one downside, and that has to do with utilizing the maximum amount of shore power. Originally with 50 amp 240v coming into the boat, I had the ability to split the various AC loads across two phases - essentially two banks of 120 volts each at 50 amps. With this new configuration, I will only be using one phase of the two, which means I can only get 50 amps total out of shore power. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/assist-50.jpeg) Power Assist doing it's thing I was initially worried with this limitation, as I would like to have as much power available as possible. However, after 6 months of using the setup, I have no regrets and have had zero issues. Victron's Power Assist feature has stepped in wherever I've needed more than 50 amps of power, which has been rare. During normal use, I rarely ever need a full 50 amps of power continuously, ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/assist-30.jpeg) Power assist with 30 amp shore power I've even used the system with 30 amps of shore power in a couple of places. It's worked just as you would expect, providing more power - here around 54 amps - while needed, and then charging the batteries back up later. ### Everything on Inverter As a result of this setup, I chose to put everything on the inverter which has been wonderful from a usability perspective. We can run anything and everything all of the time, regardless of whether we have shore power or generator power. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_6395.jpeg) Everything on inverter, and all loads on and running That makes a big difference for folks who don't know how a boat works - they don't need to ask to use something - everything just works. The downside is that it does require a bit more thought around what you leave on all of the time. I have big block heaters for my engines which I've left on once or twice, only to notice them a few hours later. I'll take the inconvenience for the overall simplicity of the entire system. ### Wiring ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/wire.jpeg) 6 AWG wire With the new design, I had some wiring challenges with the AC power side of things. First, the shore power inlet is amidships at the pilot house door on the starboard side. The AC panel is right there as well, but I wanted all of the AC power to go through the inverters to take advantage of Power Assist and all of the other monitoring capabilities. This meant that I needed a new cable from the shore power inlet to where the inverters were being installed in the engine room. I also needed a new set of wires from the inverters back up to the AC panel, as the previous inverter was only powering a small part of the AC panel, and I was moving everything over to run through the inverters. I chose some beefy 6 AWG wires with four conductors in them. I had to run it from the pilot house down the side of the boat and into the engine room. Thankfully Kaos has a cable tray the whole way, and it was pretty easy! That's a rarity based on previous boats and customer installs. ### 12 Volt DC System ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_8991.jpeg) 3x Orion DC-DC 24->12 power supplies The entire DC system on Kaos is 12 volts, and I was not replacing or upgrading that as part of this project. I tried a number of different combinations of things over a 2 month period, and ended up settling on 3x Victron Orion DC-DC power supplies that convert 24 volts to 12 volts, and are each capable of 70 amps. That gives me a total of 210 amps of 12 volt power, which is more than double what I calculated my max usage was. It also provides some redundancy since I have 3 units in case of a failure. These little boxes actually worked better than a dedicated AGM battery bank that had similar amperage numbers. While the batteries could last on their own without anything else powering them for a while, the voltage drop was significant with any sort of decent load. The Orion power supplies don't sag quite as much, and I was able to dial them up to 13 volts and get a consistent voltage out of them compared to a battery. The one challenge is the 12 volt anchor windlass where in some situations, it draws an enormous amount when it is heavily loaded and causes a voltage sag. This causes some sensitive things to restart. The eventual plan is to upgrade the anchor windlass motor to 24 volt and connect it to the existing 24 volt thruster bank. ### Lynx Distribution, Shunt and BMS I had used the Lynx distribution system on a few other customer projects, but never on my own boat. I had also never used the BMS or Shunt products from the Lynx series. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/bus1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/bus2.jpeg) Lynx distributor and BMS I chose the Lynx distributor for the battery and inverter connections. Each is fused and connected to the rest of the system so that any blown fuse causes an alert, and provides details on which fuse has an issue. I looked at BlueSeas and Marinco Pro Installer bus systems, but they would have ended up being bigger footprint-wise, and some of them had lower amperage ratings that didn't meet my design. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_6296.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_6295.jpeg) Lynx Smart BMS I chose the Lynx Smart BMS after a lot of painstaking research. This is one of the challenges with Victron - they have too many choices for shunts and BMS's, and each of them have some big gaps that cause design issues or changes. The Lynx Smart BMS is probably their most advanced, and provides a lot of nice features. It has a dedicated connection for the distributors to read the fuse statuses, for the batteries to manage them, VE.Can to connect to the inverters and GX device, and individual connections to power the GX system. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/12v-lynx-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/12v-lynx-2.jpeg) Lynx distributor and shunt for the 12 volt system I also chose to use the Lynx distributor system and shunt for the existing 12 volt system. I used one side of the distributor for the three Orion DC-DC power supplies that run the 12 volt system and their input power. Three fuses on that side protect the power supplies. The shunt is there so I can monitor the amount of power that the 12 volt system is using, although you can sort of already see that with the "DC System" statistic on the GX display. On the other distributor I have 2x 0/2 AWG cables going to the main DC panel in the pilot house, one going to the diesel heater, and one going to always on circuits in the engine room. There are a lot of other features, and issues, with the Lynx Smart BMS, shunt, and distributors that could benefit from a dedicated article in the future. Even so, I have been very pleased with the clean install of the Lynx system, the shunt, BMS, and other protection pieces all built in, and how well it has worked so far. ### Charging other battery banks ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_6390.jpeg) Orion-Tr Smart DC/DC chargers Just like Grace and Rendezvous, I chose to make charging other banks as reliable and simple as possible. I hate ACRs or other combiners because of what can go wrong with charging the wrong thing or the current flowing the wrong direction. They also do not work well with different battery charging profiles or chemistries, which I definitely have in this system: - Main engine start battery bank - 4x group 31 "maintenance free sealed" flooded batteries. - Thruster battery bank - 2x group 31 "maintenance free sealed" flooded batteries - Generator start battery - 4D flooded battery All of these batteries will be replaced in late 2022/early 2023 with group 31 AGM batteries from Lifeline, but weren't part of this budget / project. I chose various versions of the Orion-Tr Smart DC/DC chargers - one for each bank - which are supplied from the main 24 volt inverter bank. This guarantees that all three of those battery banks are always charged with the proper profile, that current only flows one way, and I can monitor them via the VictronConnect app. This is similar to what I did on Rendezvous, and provided a very reliable, hands off way to ensure other battery banks are always charged. ### Alternator Unlike the last two boats, I chose not to install high amperage alternators for a few reasons. First, I had lots of challenges with regulators and alternators being reliable all of the time with high outputs. It required a lot of attention and time, and although they did provide great charging underway, my setup with the dual Quattro inverter/chargers provided a much more efficient and predictable way of charging. Second, the Caterpillar 3208 engines in Kaos had limited space for alternators, although one was modified for a larger one. I didn't really want to mess around with additional modifications. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/18087890_LRG.jpg) You may also notice that I am using a Balmar regulator and alternator instead of the Wakespeed systems I've used in the past. I did start with a Wakespeed WS-500 regulator in this system, and it was connected to the Lynx Smart BMS. Unfortunately, it did not end up working reliably, and I removed it. I ended up with a 45 amp 24 volt alternator paired with a Balmar MC-624 regulator and a Balmar alternator protection device. This means I don't have a huge amount of underway charging, but it is enough that I don't end up discharging while underway, and have a small amount of amps going into the battery bank. There is also a plan to add a second 24 volt alternator to the other main engine - right now it is a 12 volt stock alternator that is disabled. At that point, I would have \~50 amps of charging underway, which is great to have. The biggest reason for my change here over previous boats is the complexity and issues that I had with regulators and the expense of the higher output alternators. I'm hopeful that in the next few years these will become more usable for every day folks. ## Using the System ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/VRM.png) So far I have been extremely pleased with the system. Since installation, it has run flawlessly without any issues for 6 months in all sorts of conditions. During this time, I was at anchor 70 days and ran the generator about 65 of those days. Almost every time I ran the generator, I ended up running many other systems including the water maker and laundry, putting more load on the inverters. Almost always, the generator is at 70-80% load during the entire run time, exactly as I had planned. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Full-Install.jpeg) The capacity is enough to run the whole boat for 2 days without charging, and probably longer if we weren't so lazy. As with any other boat I've had LiFePO4 on, you tend to not be as crazy with managing lights and electrical usage, which I'm OK with. If a system makes my time on the boat less stressful, that's a win in my book. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_7610.jpeg) Visibility and control has been great. The other battery banks have been charged well, and the changes to cabling, fusing, and connectivity have not caused any issues. I've noticed a more stable power system in general, especially on the 12 volt side since it is being supplied by fixed power supplies at 13 volts. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/SOC-1.png) Battery state of charge during one of my longer trips this summer Average generator run time per day is 1-2 hours, depending on state of charge and also how much water I need to make with the watermaker. Since everything is on inverter, it also means we can use the boat systems whenever we want, and choose when to run the generator if it is more appropriate. That takes a lot of stress off of the captain having to plan when to run things, and worrying about making noise late in the evenings. We even ran our air conditioning while at anchor a number of days this year just on battery power with the smoke and hot temperatures. I'm very happy with the reliability, visibility, and capacity of the system. ## Challenges **12v windlass** \- this is connected to the 12 volt house system which gets power from the 3x Victron Orion 70A DC-DC power supplies. During normal use, there aren't any issues, but if the motor is put under higher loads, there is a voltage sag. That results in voltage sensitive things restarting or power cycling, which I want to avoid. Eventually, I will be replacing the windlass motor, or I might upgrade the whole windlass to a slightly larger size, and switch to 24 volts. This will then run back to the existing 24 volt thruster bank and get it off of the 12 volt DC-DC bank, which will eliminate this issue. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_7382.jpeg) 50 pound ballast bags **Listing** \- removing 10x GC2 batteries from the starboard lazarette was great in terms of removing weight, but it created a list. I completely reorganized the storage in the lazarette, but there was still a list. I ended up purchasing a number of 50 pound ballast bags from [Wakeballast](https://wakeballast.com/?ref=seabits.com) and placed them in the starboard side to correct the list. **Orion data** \- there's no way to get any data out of any of the Orion DC-DC power supplies for my 12 volt system, and you can only get data out of the Orion-Tr DC/DC chargers via Bluetooth and a phone app. It would be great if Victron added at least some basic data that you could plumb into the GX platform. **Lynx limits** \- there are limits around the Lynx distributors (max of 4, and I have 5), Lynx Smart BMS, and Lynx Shunt that are all weird things to work around from the data gathering perspective. None of the issues cause system problems, but for the cost and complexity, you would think they would have thought about these issues. Some are supposed to be addressed with future firmware, so we'll see... ## Final Thoughts ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_8990.jpeg) The new power system has been amazingly reliable, easy to see all of the data and status, and provides a wonderful amount of capacity that allows us to be quietly at anchor for multiple days. Simplifying the AC panel down to one 120 volt AC input and putting everything on inverter has really made my job as captain a lot easier when it comes to dealing with power, and it means crew and guests have an easier time as well. There are still some refinements to deal with, and some small challenges to overcome, but that's what I love about working on boating systems - iterative design and continuous improvement. After all, this is version 1 of Kaos system - who knows what will be in version 2! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 25 comments Hartley Gardner@Hartley October 31, 2022 Hi Steve! Wow! My Victron LiFePO4 system can’t hold a candle to yours I did have a problem with ours this summer, however, and I’d be interested in your thoughts on working around the issue we encountered. We have a 12.8v/330ah Lithium battery as our house, which I installed in April of this year. It has worked well since - I REALLY like the advantages of the Li pack vs the AGMs it replaced – with one notable exception: On a sunny day at anchor in Rockland, ME, the BMS board inside our house battery just stopped - it went dark on Bluetooth, and shut off both the charge and load buss switches (BatteryProtect 220a devices). Immediate action drill was to open up VictronConnect and look for the battery (fail), then open the setee containing the battery and feel the temperature (cool). The SmallBMS was showing a red light instead of the usual blue, and both control leads were low, which is why the switches were off. Battery voltage was fine (13.35v). There is a section in the manual for the battery that identifies a procedure for “restarting” the control board (in the event of an over-discharge), so I opened up the battery and performed it (lifting one lead off the battery and then replacing it). This did nothing. I then called my Victron dealer, and he asked me to send him an email detailing the problem and what we had done, which I did. I then “hot-wired” the control lines to turn both the load and charge devices on - which worked fine, and the battery continued to perform well. There was a firmware issue identified in the 24V batteries that resulted in the same symptom - except that these cases were resolved by new firmware (1.28) and the application of another lead lift. I think my board just quit - some sort of infant failure so beloved of all of us in the electronics business. Getting a warranty replacement board took 5 weeks, but when I received the new board, it worked perfectly, and has ever since. Victron seems uninterested in diagnosing my board (at least they never asked for it back). My real concern now is: how do I prepare myself for a future failure of this nature? My biggest concern, of course, is a failure while in some nasty situation (short final to a narrow entrance in the dark!) but I also want to be able to perform the “hot wire” bit without the kludge I used this time (blue tape and all!). The “Override Switch” will be a guarded toggle switch in a location not subject to flying hands and feet - that will be easy, albeit with a bit of carpentry to make it look professional. But I concluded the big concern could be met by providing “non-interruptible” power to three things: The primary chartplotter, the N2K Instrument buss and the autopilot. I also plan to provide unswitched power to the battery monitor (BM702), as dropping power to it causes it to forget the SOC, which is annoying. I’ve acquired some 120amp and 20a Schottky diodes, which I will install in aluminum boxes for installation when I get back aboard. If there’s a better way, I’m all ears! Hartley S/V Atsa p.s. Its “4/0” as in “four ought”, not 0/4 Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 October 31, 2022 That’s an interesting failure case. I’ve heard of at least one other person who had a control board in their Victron battery die, but I forget who it was. I do know they had multiple batteries, so it didn’t hurt them that much in terms of running ability - they just lost some capacity until it could be fixed. Do you only have one battery? I suppose adding another one isn’t an option Sounds like an override switch is a good idea as long as its safe and you have some way of proving the battery didn’t shut things off intentionally. I definitely dislike the whole BMV power situation with some of the stand alone BMS’es from Victron. In a state where things get shut off, so does your BMV so you can’t see state of charge, voltage, or anything else. The Lynx Smart BMS actually has dedicated points on it to run a GX or BMV so that it is always powered, except in really rare conditions where everything is completely dead. The BMS can shut off the load side, but keep the GX or BMV still running so you can figure out what happened, which I think is a nice design. I fixed my late night 0/4 vs 4/0 dumb mistake, thanks. I have stared at the sheathing and labels on those cables for 15+ years and should know better… TomH@TomH October 31, 2022 Steve, Great article, as usual. I’m looking at replacing my dead 500ah 12v battery bank (4x6v Trojan TE35 FLA) with a pair of Vitcron 330a/h 12v batteries and lynx bms, cerbo gx & multiplus charger this winter. I was going to use two batteries for both resilience and capacity - I was worried about the risk of the sort of outage mentioned above. I’d been planning to use a WS500, in part on the basis of your past enthusiasm, and it’s apparently tight integration with the victron kit. My sailing boat only has an aged (but reliable) 43hp engine, with a second 105a prestolite alternatior (currently with an adverc external regulator) as a charging source. I might change the alternator, but there’s not a lot of room so I might see how the current one copes. Smart load management is a must though, with the engine size. One installer I’d talked to has had some poor recent experiences with the ws500 too and was reverting to master volt external regulators. That adds complexity from a management perspective, but if they just work, combined with a smart shunt, it might be a good way to go. Can you share a little more of your issues with the ws500? On paper they look perfect. Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #4 October 31, 2022 Good Morning, Steve! Yes, only one battery - I could probably add another 330ah, but at this point I think I could spend the money better elsewhere I might point out that if you daisy-chain your Victron batteries BMS cables, one battery doing this trick will disconnect 'em all. They are a series loop, any one device along the loop breaking one of the leads causes your external switching (BatteryProtect, contactor, Lynx, etc.) to open. Victron suggested to me that using a BMS extension cable would fool the SmallBMS into turning everything back on - which confirmed my suspicion. I debated adding the Cerbo to the uninterruptible buss, but I figure if I can re-energize the system easily, I will do that before doing extensive troubleshooting. When we’re out at sea, the Cerbo is just talking to itself anyway TomH, I can recommend the “belt saver” feature of the BalMar alternator controllers - the OO of our boat installed a 120amp alternator, but cheaped out and didn’t augment the single V-belt. If I let the alternator go full-bore, I have to replace the belt every month or so >:8O I have it set at 50% now - belts are a biannual replacement JIC. EDIT to add: One thing I sure wish I could get to the Cerbo is the battery temp and individual cell voltages - I can see them locally using VictronConnect & Bluetooth, but not from afar. Hartley S/V Atsa Valhowell@Valhowell October 31, 2022 Great article. I am getting ready to do a major upgrade to outer 51Beneteau Sense 51\. I will be trading out the Cristec chargers and adding a Victron Multiplus 3000/12/120 for the house bank and Victron 12v Dc to Dc chargers running off the house bank to charge the eng, Gen and thruster banks. As an ABYC certified electrician, I am trying to remain compliant to all requirements including E-13. It appears as if the Victron batteries are not compliant. Not UL, SAE or IEC certified and no external warning that I can find. Do you have better information on this? Also, in your article you indicated issues with the wakespeed 500\. I have a single Yanmar common rail diesel with a Valeo 12 v 125 amp alternator. I need to configure for external regulation and then, I was going to use a Wakespeed. Can you share your issues? Lastly, I have seen a lot of issues with insurance companies getting squirrely bout lithium. I gather this is not your experience. Can you share who you are covered with. Thanks Alan Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 October 31, 2022 TomH: > Can you share a little more of your issues with the ws500? The issue I had with Kaos was a situation where an alternator was destroyed, and nearly caught the boat on fire. It has not been proven whether it was the alternator, regulator, or something else in the mix, but the complexity of the regulator connected to the Lynx Smart BMS along with the extra wiring bothered me at the time. The way it was wired, and indeed, the tight integration with Victron’s Lynx Smart BMS, should have prevented anything like this from happening, but here we are. The bigger issue is related - Wakespeed is not an easy product to configure, use, and monitor. It requires a decent knowledge of command line, and even then, the syntax is particularly difficult. Even with all of my experience with it on my boat and others, I still have to go back to the manual almost every time. Beyond configuring, it is sort of a black box. There are some features that aren’t clearly documented in a way that a user could understand, and I have found I have had to experiment a bit, or contact their support. That’s the part that ends up being a bigger issue - did you configure it right? Is it working the way it’s supposed to? And many upgrades have changed functionality that worked a different way - not unusual for a software product in its early stages of life. I think it is a great product for what it provides, especially for smaller engines that might require a more intelligent approach to load management at low RPMs to prevent overloading the engine. It is also amazing with two alternators, two engines, and one battery bank being charged - the synchronization is very well built. The other piece to consider is that Wakespeed was purchased by Dragonfly Energy, so that is likely to cause some turmoil for a short period of time. Perhaps this will mean it will get better to use over time, though! Hartley: > Victron suggested to me that using a BMS extension cable would fool the SmallBMS into turning everything back on - which confirmed my suspicion. That’s an interesting trick. I have mine connected with extension cables because of the length, and they’re in a loop, so there’s some redundancy there. Hartley: > EDIT to add: One thing I sure wish I could get to the Cerbo is the battery temp and individual cell voltages - I can see them locally using VictronConnect & Bluetooth, but not from afar. This has been a common complaint for years, and I don’t know why they don’t expose this at the Cerbo level, especially with the newer BMS’s which have to have this data internally. Hartley: > TomH, I can recommend the “belt saver” feature of the BalMar alternator controllers - the OO of our boat installed a 120amp alternator, but cheaped out and didn’t augment the single V-belt. If I let the alternator go full-bore, I have to replace the belt every month or so >:8O I have it set at 50% now - belts are a biannual replacement JIC. Wakespeed has a similar feature, although more dynamic. Both are great ways to reduce the overall output of an alternator - I’ve used the belt saver / belt load features in Balmar stuff for years in customer installs, and on the sailboats. Definitely worth looking into. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 October 31, 2022 Valhowell: > trying to remain compliant to all requirements including E-13 That’s definitely something I considered as well, although it is more of an issue with new build boats than for existing ones. Valhowell: > It appears as if the Victron batteries are not compliant. Not UL, SAE or IEC certified and no external warning that I can find. Do you have better information on this? I don’t have any better information on the certifications - I suspect they are working on getting at least one of those given that the standard is now defined and clear. Not sure what you mean by external warning - are you talking about the requirement to have an audible notification when a BMS event is occurring? They do have that now with the combination of their management products… Valhowell: > I was going to use a Wakespeed. Can you share your issues? See my comments above in my response to [@TomH](https://seabits.com/u/tomh) Valhowell: > Lastly, I have seen a lot of issues with insurance companies getting squirrely bout lithium. I gather this is not your experience. Can you share who you are covered with. I have seen a lot of people drumming up concern around this, but the two big insurance companies that I’m aware of out here on the west coast have shown no indications around this as far as I am aware, and I’m covered by one of those. I think the target for some of this has been home-built or DIY systems that are hard for any 3rd party to understand and document, and concerns around how they are installed and what safety measures are built in. I’m not saying those installs are worse than a Victron install - both can be just as bad depending on how they’re installed, etc. Eventually more insurance companies may start requiring more details around these systems, but just like any other system or item found in a survey, they will want mitigation plans or a surveyor to sign off on how something is installed. Now that we actually have a start of a standard in E-13 (it needs more work longer term), folks can start evaluating systems that don’t meet that and help figure out how to get there. Worst case, they may not want to insure the boat, but there are still other companies out there right now to choose from. I chose a mainstream brand like Victron partially because I knew E-13 was going to be a thing. I wanted a single vendor for all of the equipment so that there weren’t parts of things certified, and no way to get other pieces dealt with. Even without the batteries having everything that E-13 requires, many surveyors or insurance companies are going to be happier that it is all provided by a large supplier. And with the many thousands of Victron installs on boats, I don’t think the insurance industry is going to immediately not insure them . I’m just glad we finally have some guidance for these types of batteries in the form of ABYC E-13\. Now we’ll have to figure out what that means longer term. mgfite98034@mgfite98034 November 01, 2022 Thanks for another great write up. I was interested to read your, and others’, comments regarding the WS500\. I have one. Largely bc I felt that it was important to regulate alternator output with *current*, voltage and temp inputs for charging my LiFePO4 battery. I’m mostly happy with it. I like all the config settings that are available. It has been very good at getting the most power out of my alternator and controlling the charge profile (much better than my Balmar MC614). The cons for me include, as you said, the inconvenience of configuring, or changing the config. And lack of easy monitoring (I’ve considered getting a copy of [OffGridSoftwareSolutions.com](http://offgridsoftwaresolutions.com/?ref=seabits.com) Windows based Pro config tool, though this would not provide a permanent monitoring solution). And I have not been able to update the firmware using my PC. I’m fairly computer savy. Putty works but I haven’t been able to get the firmware update to work in spite off trying 2 different PCs, logged in as admin with full privileges, different cables, etc. Fortunately my boat is in Anacortes and Rick has been good about helping me get updated. My WS500 did shut down once while motoring. The error code indicated an over voltage condition, which seemed very odd. Everything checked out ok, maybe a voltage transient? Anyway, reboot and everything seemed ok going forward. And… this summer my 10+ year old Balmar series 60 alternator stator fried itself. Although I thought the WS500 should have prevented this, I CAN NOT point the finger at the WS500 without doing a much deeper investigation. The WS500 seems like a good solution that could be great with some more development and testing. Fingers crossed that Dragonfly Energy will invest in further development of the product. Next for me will be to connect the WS500 to my Cerbo. Hopefully that will provide a modicum of monitoring. \-Mic Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #8 November 01, 2022 Hi Steve, I’m not sure you understood my comment about the Victron BMS wiring from battery to BMS device - it really is a series connection - if any one battery (or cable) fails, the BMS “big switches” in your Lynx will open and darken your 24V load buss. Try it when nothing critical is going on - unscrew any one connection and see what happens. If you have a battery control board fail, you’ll have to ID which battery it is, then reconfigure the BMS cables so its no longer in the loop. It might be easier to just put an extension across the two connections on your Lynx SmartBMS (at least the lights will come back on!). I just have the SmallBMS, which, as near as I can tell, is just a couple of switches driving the remote control outputs going to my two BatteryProtect devices. I sure wish we had access to service info on these things, it would make things a LOT easier to puzzle out! Hartley Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 November 01, 2022 mgfite98034: > important to regulate alternator output with *current*, voltage and temp inputs for charging my LiFePO4 battery That was the main reason I had them on Rendezvous - the addition of monitoring current. mgfite98034: > It has been very good at getting the most power out of my alternator That is definitely something that Wakespeed does well. I do think they also can run right up to the edge of that, and probably was the reason I have had a few issues. mgfite98034: > I’ve considered getting a copy of [OffGridSoftwareSolutions.com](http://offgridsoftwaresolutions.com/?ref=seabits.com) Windows based Pro config tool I have it, and have had it since the very beginning. It is one of the only ways I have been able to configure things as often as I used to have to without going crazy, but it was still problematic. Because of the way things are configured, and the fact that the software is made by a 3rd party company, there were plenty of times I ended up having to factory reset things and start anew, which is super annoying. The software is a great attempt at getting a more usable UI. mgfite98034: > And I have not been able to update the firmware using my PC. I’m fairly computer savy. Putty works but I haven’t been able to get the firmware update to work in spite off trying 2 different PCs, logged in as admin with full privileges, different cables, etc. Fortunately my boat is in Anacortes and Rick has been good about helping me get updated. I’ve had 2 other customers with this issue as well. I think this is one of the fundamental issues with the technology - it’s hard to configure, hard to modify, and can get into a situation where it is unusable and requires someone who knows it very well. Few other regulators have that issue. mgfite98034: > The error code indicated an over voltage condition, which seemed very odd. Everything checked out ok, maybe a voltage transient? Anyway, reboot and everything seemed ok going forward. I had this happen a number of times on Rendezvous, and after many, many hours of troubleshooting, was never able to track it down. This was v1 Wakespeed hardware. It happened less with v2. mgfite98034: > The WS500 seems like a good solution that could be great with some more development and testing. Fingers crossed that Dragonfly Energy will invest in further development of the product. > Next for me will be to connect the WS500 to my Cerbo. Hopefully that will provide a modicum of monitoring. I really hope Dragonfly help with the supportability and testing too. I think one of the reasons they were interested in Wakespeed is to complement their batteries and other LiFePO4 systems, so they’ll need to make it easier to use if it is paired with drop-in batteries. I have already seen new videos and guides on the website which makes me hope it will eventually change! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #11 November 01, 2022 Hartley: > Try it when nothing critical is going on - unscrew any one connection and see what happens. Ah yes, I misunderstood what you were talking about. Mine won’t shut off right away, as there is a delay built into the Lynx Smart BMS and other logic you can tweak to give you a “pre alarm” before everything goes dark. Still, at the point where that timer runs out, you’re done… This was one of the reasons I considered a 12 volt AGM battery sitting on the same bus as the DC-DC power supplies and 12v distribution bus. At least if I lost the 24v side, AC power would die, charging would go down, but 12v would still be up and running, which means basic instruments and navigation, lighting, etc. The design allows for this to be added in with about 5 minutes work, and I have a battery sitting there that could be used. Might add it in for v1.1 of the design… Hartley: > I sure wish we had access to service info on these things, it would make things a LOT easier to puzzle out! I have access to some of the service info and training materials. Some of it is in there, other parts are alluded to or you figure out during the training, and even more are just undocumented. Lots of folks have complained over the years about this. Other vendors don’t have as much of a problem, but they also have far less features too, so… Rob Slifkin@Rob\_Slifkin November 02, 2022 Thinking about the parallel vs split phase inverters, is there any reason you couldn’t have run them in split phase and just connected both to the 120v generator output? Would the inverters have complained about both inputs being in-phase on generator power? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 November 02, 2022 I tried that and it did exactly as you mentioned. It detected the same phase and refused to engage or use the generator power. Rob Slifkin@Rob\_Slifkin↩ #15 November 03, 2022 Darn. Would it make sense to add another panel for loads (like the block heaters and chargers for the starting and thruster batteries) that you’d never want to run on inverter power and just put a manual (or even automatic) shore/gen transfer switch on that panel? It would allow you to at least get some use out of the second shore power leg. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #16 November 03, 2022 I could, but it would really only be a few things like the block heaters. I can’t even think of anything else that I wouldn’t at least want the ability to run off of the inverters. The chargers for the start / thruster banks don’t rely on the inverters - they come directly off of the 24v bank, and I always want those on just in case something happens with one of those banks so that they’re always charged. Adding another panel would be relatively easy, other than the fact that I would not have visibility to it with the current system, and would have to monitor it another way or add it in somehow to the existing one. But that’s easily solvable. I guess the challenge in general is what would I want on that panel? Just the block heaters so far…everything else I would like to run off of the inverters. I haven’t run out of power at any point. The one 50 amp leg has been more than enough for everything. Having Power Assist helps whenever I go over that, but that doesn’t happen often. I’m also working to replace some things that are less efficient - earlier in the year I removed a really old air conditioning unit in the pilot house which used a ton of amps on startup, and replaced it with a bigger unit with slow start and lower amperage usage. Same with all of the lighting, microwave, stove, and more. Patrick@svviolethour January 27, 2023 Re: Wakespeed, I’m installing one now and I do think the support has suffered under Dragonfly. So far they have never responded to emails sent to [support@wakespeed.com](mailto:support@wakespeed.com) and I am able to get phone support, but the sales / tech agent I’ve spoken with didn’t seem very well informed about Wakespeed (not surprising given their main business is selling BattleBorn). He gave me incorrect information and when I pushed back on that, asking if he could check with the tech team, he said he knows all there is to know about the product and they’re not likely to test a new configuration. (I asked if you could extend the CerboGX crossover Cat5e cable with a RJ45 coupler and he said you cannot and shouldn’t do that, he thought - but the package Wakespeed shipped this cable in has a print-out saying you can do that). Also a good deal of conflicting information and/or typos in the manual. Oh well, it likely is still the best option for a lithium system. If I could get support from someone actually at Wakespeed that would be great though. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #18 January 27, 2023 svviolethour: > Re: Wakespeed, I’m installing one now and I do think the support has suffered under Dragonfly. That’s not great to hear, but I sort of suspected this would happen. I think I posted about it before, but I exchanged many hundreds of emails with the original founders of Wakespeed, mostly to deal with continual issues with firmware upgrades and to tune my dual alternator setup. It was extremely painful because of the poor documentation, and the very esoteric choices made with the configuration syntax and approach. I had hoped that Dragonfly would unify or at least push some of that to be more user-friendly, but I think we’re still in the transition period since they were purchased. I do think that the only way Wakespeed’s product could be successful under that brand would be for it to be more plug-and-play with pre-built configurations that could be more easily pushed to the device. I removed my Wakespeed earlier this year due to issues with the connectivity to the Victron Lynx BMS. I used a coupler for my setup and it worked fine, at least that part did. I am considering re-installing the Wakespeed now that their initial versions have been out for a while and hopefully the initial bugs have been worked out. Patrick@svviolethour↩ #19 January 27, 2023 I’m a little scared about getting to the configuration part but I think they’re trying to make that more layperson friendly. It appears maybe they rewrote the manual because the printed quickstart sheet they shipped me says to see the “User Guide” for details about voltage sensing. But there is no “User Guide” - the downloadable pdf is “Product Manual”, and doesn’t contain a section on voltage sensing. I’m guessing that was in the old user guide. The manual actually only passingly mentions the CAN programming mode (and separate communications manual), focusing on using pre-selected profiles through the DIP switches (those only have one profile for LiFePo4 though, with oddly low voltage - 13.8 absorb - probably erring on the very conservative side). But there’s also an Android/iOS app now which allows you to generate a .txt config file from some preloaded LiFePo4 profiles (BattleBorn, Victron, but no Kilovault). And I just discovered if you enable “expert mode” you can edit the charge parameters (helpful if they don’t have your battery profile). It’s basically a GUI for the txt file. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #20 January 27, 2023 These seem like revision 2 or 3 of the various instructions and manuals that I have used before to set the Wakespeed stuff up. You can use a USB cable to the port inside the unit and a terminal program (putty on Windows, iTerm/terminal on Mac) to configure things using the command line, a 3rd party piece of software sold by Off Grid Solutions (or something like that) which does most of it, or the Android app to generate a configuration file. The USB cable approach requires you understand the complicated syntax and build out your configuration either by hand, or based on a template. It’s very time consuming and prone to error. The software option is probably the one I used the most, but it’s not always in sync with firmware changes and syntax issues. I’ve ended up with mangled configurations a lot of times. It’s also a very basic piece of software with difficult UX. On top of that, you have to pay for it and it’s not offered nor supported by Wakespeed. The Android app asks a bunch of questions and spits out a configuration you can then download to the device using a messy USB cable option, or generate a file and push it to the device using Windows and a bunch of batch files and a USB cable. The iOS version when I tested it did only about 50% of the Android one. The user guide and card is also confusing. You have to set the dip switches for the size of your bank, type of batteries, and other things, but you *also* really, really should upload a specific configuration based on your battery charge details if you’re using LiFePO4\. They used to keep examples of various battery manufacturer profiles on their website - I don’t know if those are around anymore, but I probably have some old copies. You use the Windows batch files and USB cable to upload these. Any way you slice it, it’s difficult to configure with poor documentation and confusing syntax and approach. Adam Morris@SVConfianza↩ #10 March 05, 2023 The trick for me was removing the USB device that windows automatically installed and manually putting in drivers that wakespeed provided. Now I can update the firmware again (including through the offgrid software). mgfite98034@mgfite98034 March 05, 2023 Great hardware that fills a void. But hampered by its difficultly to set up custom configs. Custom configs is why I bought the WS500\. And the documentation… well, I second everything said above. If Dragonfly would hire an experienced tech writer that would be a start. And yes, I also learned the hard way that you need to use the Windows drivers that are compatible with the WS500. I just got my boat back in the water and I’m planning on implementing the WS500 to Cerbo GX comm link this spring. So at last, I’m hoping that I can have *some* visibility into what the WS500 is doing. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #22 March 06, 2023 SVConfianza: > The trick for me was removing the USB device that windows automatically installed and manually putting in drivers that wakespeed provided. Now I can update the firmware again (including through the offgrid software). Ah good note on fixing those drivers. I’ve not had this happen, which is surprising since I’ve worked on my own many, many times, and others as well. Must be super lucky! mgfite98034: > I’m planning on implementing the WS500 to Cerbo GX comm link this spring. So at last, I’m hoping that I can have *some* visibility into what the WS500 is doing. I tried the beta version of this and had bad results, but I am looking forward to trying the WS500 again here in a month with that link for the same reason. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #25 July 19, 2023 I actually have an update planned in the next few weeks on how the system is doing. So far, so good - very happy with it - more details in the article! mgfite98034@mgfite98034 July 29, 2023 Update - I did implement the WS500 to Cerbo GX (CAN Bus) comm link and have been using it this summer. The short version is that this feature has added a much needed level of visibility into the status of the WS500, including English error messages. Highly recommended. I also have my Cerbo GX connected to my Raymarine Axiom Pro MFD via Ethernet (RayNet) which allows the Victron app on the MFD to replicate display & control of the Cerbo GX on the MFD at the helm. So the WS500 device data is visible at the helm. Nice! I also have my Cerbo GX connected to the NMEA2000 bus. So the Cerbo GX broadcasts data from the SmartShunt onto the NMEA2000 bus where it can be displayed by the MFD and other instruments on the bus. One of the very surprising benefits of having the WS500 connected to the Cerbo GX, to the NMEA2000 bus has to do with the engine RPM. I have the typical Yanmar/VDO tachometer at the helm but it’s old and “sticky” and not very accurate. I was poking around in various displays on my MFD and discovered that the screen that displays engine data is now showing very accurate engine RPM (based on my programming pulley ratios in the WS500). Knock me over. I didn’t have to do anything. Unfortunately, all the data that the WS500 outputs on the CAN Bus is not well documented (I wouldn’t consider Config Guide-Appendix C sufficient). So some experimenting is on the list of things to do to see what other useful WS500 data can be displayed by NMEA2000 connected instruments. Regarding the custom CAN Bus cable needed for connecting the WS500 to the Cerbo GX: You can purchase a pre-made cable or make you own using the wiring diagram in the WS500/Cerbo documentation. I chose the latter because I don’t like loops of cable stuffed into wiring runs. As for cable length and using extenders, the CAN Bus spec says that maximum cable lengths must be between 500 meters(125 kbps) and 40 meters(1 Mbps). 40 meters probably covers most of our boats. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #27 July 30, 2023 mgfite98034: > The short version is that this feature has added a much needed level of visibility into the status of the WS500, including English error messages. Highly recommended. Good to know! I may do this myself. mgfite98034: > I also have my Cerbo GX connected to my Raymarine Axiom Pro MFD via Ethernet (RayNet) which allows the Victron app on the MFD to replicate display & control of the Cerbo GX on the MFD at the helm. So the WS500 device data is visible at the helm. This is a nice feature and I’ve used it before myself and for clients. Did you know you can also see this on a phone or a web browser on a computer by going to your Cerbo IP address and adding /app/ at the end? You’ll get the version that shows up on a chart plotter instead of the usual one! mgfite98034: > I also have my Cerbo GX connected to the NMEA2000 bus. Ah yes I recommend this with any install. mgfite98034: > now showing very accurate engine RPM Nice side benefit! mgfite98034: > You can purchase a pre-made cable or make you own using the wiring diagram in the WS500/Cerbo documentation. Yup I did this on Rendezvous which allowed for some limited data at the time. They’ve increased that as well. Glad you have more visibility and info with your system! ### Using Starlink with Peplink URL: https://seabits.com/using-starlink-with-peplink/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:25:26.000Z --- Starlink has changed connectivity aboard forever, and is amazing technology in its own right, but there are good reasons to consider combining it with other types of connectivity and routers to provide a more robust, usable solution. 🗒️ This article was written in late 2022\. Starlink plans and restrictions have changed since the original article, and change so often that it is hard to keep up with new limits and restrictions. I try to update older articles when time allows, but I recommend reading Starlink's Terms of Service to ensure that plans operate the same now as they did then. ## Working Remotely I work remotely from the boat and expect a high quality connection as much as possible. I use Google Workspace, Office 365, Slack, Teams, and a lot of web browsing . Most of those can survive a few seconds of interruption, but it can get frustrating. Where things get complicated is with video sessions using Zoom and Microsoft Teams - these are super sensitive to any sort of interruption, and it really makes the experience crappy for both ends of the call if you have any outages or significant latency. [Working remotely from the boatWorking remotely from the boat requires a good system with multiple connections and cellular plans, redundancy, and good WiFi.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/IMG_2959.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/working-remotely-from-the-boat/) Read more about my working remotely setup.... The top features for a quality remote work setup are: - **Multiple internet connections** \- you need at least 2 types of connectivity so that you have a backup when one fails or becomes unusable for other reasons. You'll also need technology to switch between these, combine them in certain situations, and monitor their overall health. - **Control usage & prioritize** \- make sure that your work traffic is the priority. This prevents other activities on your network (the binge session on Netflix in the next cabin!) from causing issues with work. These requirements are not something you can get using Starlink alone. They can be moderately easy to setup with other products, depending on how complicated or deep you go with the configuration, or they can require a decent amount of technical knowledge in more complex cases. Regardless, if you are serious about working remotely or have a business where you need to be connected reliably, these are the basic requirements that you should consider. ## My Test Setup I've been testing various combinations of Starlink + Peplink since January 2021 when the first circular dish became available. More recently, I've been focused on the generation 3 rectangular dish with various configurations since it is the most popular for recreational boaters. Here is my test setup: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Peplink-Setup.png) M/V Kaos internet setup - diagram courtesy of Peplink - [Peplink MBX Mini 5G router](https://onboardwireless.com/peplink-mbx-mini-5g-router.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) \- 2x 5G cellular radios, WAN ports, LAN ports, WiFi as WAN (for remote WiFi signals) - [Peplink MAX Adapter 5G](https://onboardwireless.com/peplink-max-adapter-5g.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) connected to the MBX Mini above via USB - Peplink [Maritime 40G](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Maritime-40G-Antenna%5Fp%5F25.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) and [Mobility 42G](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Mobility-42G-Combo-LTEWiFiGPS-Antenna%5Fp%5F23.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) antennas connected to both of the above - [Peplink AP One AX](https://onboardwireless.com/pepwave-ap-one-ax.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) access points throughout the boat - Two Starlink dishes connected to the WAN ports of the Peplink MBX Mini 5G. One dish is setup with the standard Residential + Portability plan, and the other with the RV plan. This gives me the ability to be connected to all three major US cellular carriers simultaneously, have WiFi as WAN to connect to a local WiFi network if I am in a marina, have good local WiFi broadcast throughout the boat, and be connected to two Starlink dishes for redundancy and testing. I have been using this particular setup since June of 2022 and have been testing in a multitude of different locations. My home slip is in Seattle, which is a great place to test how terrible the RV version is since there are so many people with Starlink there, and things get super slow. I also spent a month in the Thurlow / Discovery Islands in British Columbia, Canada, where there is zero cellular connectivity in most cases, which meant relying 100% on Starlink. In between, I was in various spots around Puget Sound, the San Juan Islands, Gulf Islands, and many other stops along the way. All of the equipment got thorough testing in a multitude of conditions. 🗒️ The Peplink MBX Mini 5G is an excellent piece of hardware, but for many folks, they might prefer something in a more affordable price range, or with a smaller footprint and power usage. The MAX BR1 Pro 5G has a single cellular radio, WAN port for Starlink, and a bunch of other features. I did an overview almost a year ago that you can find below. [Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G initial impressionsThe Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G is a powerful router capable of excellent performance on both 4G and 5G, and is a top pick for internet connectivity on a boat.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-ports.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-br1-pro-5g-first-impressions/) Good choice to pair with Starlink ## Starlink Challenges In this section, I'm going to cover the challenges I've seen while trying to use Starlink for day-to-day use. Almost all of the issues can be dealt with by having a backup way of connecting to the internet. This is the main reason I recommend combining them for the best solution. ### Starlink RV & Slowdowns Most boaters I know have the Starlink RV version because of its availability and flexibility with billing. This particular service is the lowest priority when you're in areas with lots of other Starlink users and especially if you are outside of your home location. This can cause some severe performance issues when you are in a busy location. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Starlink-RV-uploads-1.png) Starlink RV with very slow upload speeds The primary place this will cause issues is with upload speeds, as you can see above. This test was performed at Elliott Bay Marina in Seattle, WA on a weekday. Elliott Bay Marina is well known for being a challenging cellular location, so Starlink has been popular within the marina to overcome that. When there are is a lot of activity, the RV service suffers because its in "last place" when it comes to priority. This really makes things like Zoom and Teams video calls almost impossible as they require between 3-4 Mbps of sustained upload to work correctly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Starlink-Residential-Upload2.png) Starlink Residential + Portability upload speeds This is a test at the same time using the Starlink Residential + Portability plan showing more usable upload speeds. They're still lower than busy places/times, but they are usable in terms of upload speeds for video calls. This is one reason having other connectivity types than Starlink is important for working remotely - that or using the Residential + Portability plan if you can get it. ### Starlink Outages Starlink is also a single vendor, single service, and when they have an issue somewhere in their network, it can mean zero connectivity. I've seen many of these in my testing. The satellites in orbit have to connect to a ground station somewhere to get access to the internet. If that station goes offline, or if there is an issue from that location to somewhere else, your Starlink connection will be unusable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_8663.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_8664.jpeg) Even with an optimized mounting location, there will still be times when things obstruct your dishy, which can cause an outage as well. Outages of 2 seconds are not that frequent, but they are big interruptions that can cause video sessions to have problems. What's more interesting is to look at outages that are shorter than that (the second/right hand picture) which show a ton more obstructions and network issues. Those won't cause huge issues with video, but the frequency means that there is an issue every few minutes which might be noticeable to people on the other end. ### Starlink Router Limitations There's not a lot of configuration control with the Starlink router itself. You can't set priorities (commonly called Quality of Service or QoS), create redundant connections to multiple internet sources, or really do much for the individual clients connected to the router. I wrote an article a few years ago on using various strategies and technologies to control the usage on board which is below, and is something that I recommend folks with critical work needs aboard look at using. Almost none of this can be done with the Starlink router alone. [Managing internet usage on your boatManaging your internet data usage on the boat is important both for a quality experience, and because of limited WiFi and cellular networks.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/zabbix-mikrotik.png)](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/) Of course, this is not what Starlink's priorities are - they're trying to enable internet in places that have little-to-no choices for connectivity, and most folks won't have a backup method or need the type of control you would on a boat. They're also most likely not moving and are in a fixed location, so their satellite connection will likely be more reliable. The other thing to consider is WiFi performance and distance. I've heard of folks having issues with various clients working reliably with Starlink's WiFi setup. I'm sure they will refine this over time, but there is almost zero control over this within the Starlink app. It's also important to think about the distance from/to the Starlink router and your boat layout. This isn't specific to Starlink, and is something I work with folks on all of the time. Having a router in a central place on the boat is a great solution for most folks, but often times there are dead or low performance zones that you might want to improve. Starlink offers a mesh node device for about $130 to extend your network, and there are other 3rd party products that you can use as well. However, they're AC powered where some other solutions out there might be a better choice power-wise, and if you are already trying to solve WiFi issues, you might want a product that has better configuration and visibility. ### Starlink In-Motion Limitations Technically you're not supposed to use Starlink RV/Residential plans while in motion, but many people still do. Recently, Starlink pushed out new firmware / software that disables the network if it detects you are going over 10 MPH. This equates to about 8.7 knots in our world, which for most sailboats and trawlers is not really that big of a factor. For other boats it means losing your network connection when underway. I still use my internet connection while underway for WiFi calling on my cell phone, alerts & email, Marine Traffic API requests from my TimeZero PCs to see remote AIS targets, and other things. My crew and passengers might be using it for a lot more intense usage including work, streaming, and the like. Having Starlink disconnect while underway is definitely a reason to have cellular as a secondary connectivity method. 🗒️ I've seen varying results with testing things underway and the 10MPH speed limit. I believe it has to do with the GPS data and accuracy within the dish, which I suspect is how they calculate the speed you're going. In some cases, I've seen no disconnect while going 10 knots for sustained periods of time, while in other cases, I've noticed that large waves accelerate the GPS speed and even at 8 knots, I've been disconnected. ### Starlink Changes! One of the biggest challenges with Starlink is the continual changes. Portability (the ability to use it outside of your home address) only became available in April 2022\. The RV plan also is only a few months old. Recently, Starlink changed their software to disable the network connection if they see you going faster than 10 MPH. What will be next? These services and plans were not made for boats. Starlink has a priority to provide internet access to remote land-based locations as a first priority, and we're reaping the benefits of that. Who knows what the future holds - will they block all of the RV units from being used on the water once they release the cheaper marine version? Will that cost $1000/month? We don't know... But they're also a new player on the internet market. They'll need to keep adjusting their path and goals, and some of those changes might mean that Starlink isn't usable for your use case. Having a secondary way of connecting is a really, really good idea for when the next set of changes happen! ## Cellular Still Matters Cellular is still important if you need a reliable setup and have both available to you. Cellular carriers have been around a lot longer and don't change their access or plans anywhere near as frequently as Starlink. This means that you can rely on them more than you could Starlink if connectivity is that important to you. Their networks alone are far better designed and redundant given that they power most of the phones and emergency systems we rely on daily. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/ATT1.png) AT&T LTE-A performance Cellular upload speeds are also usually higher than Starlink, and in some cases as the above test shows, the latency (29ms) is also better. Having a router that has at least one cellular link + WAN/Starlink connection is a great solution to take advantage of both. I always recommend having multiple sources for reliability. What if Starlink goes out? What if you're using the RV version and it slows down at the end of the day (which it does almost always) because of other users? ## Peplink + Starlink Basic Setup Steps So now that we've established that having both Starlink and cellular is probably the best choice aboard, what are your options? Lots of folks lately have had the Starlink router separate from an existing system aboard and switch between two (or more) WiFi networks when one isn't working or is better suited for the situation. This is definitely an option, and is pretty inexpensive to setup. My method below combines Starlink with cellular and WiFi as WAN to get the best setup with a single router, single WiFi network. 🗒️ I used version 8.2.1 of Peplink's firmware for all of these steps. Make sure you are using that version at least if you continue with the steps below, and if you have a newer version, your screens may be different. ### Starlink Ethernet Adapter To get started, you'll want to connect your Starlink to your Peplink router WAN port using the Starlink Ethernet adapter and a cable. This is the best way to use Starlink with Peplink. You can use WiFi as WAN, but it will affect the overall performance (potentially) of both products. If you have a higher end Peplink router with multiple WiFi radios, this is less of an issue, but you still run the risk of the WiFi connection between the router and the Starlink router being the bottleneck. ℹ️ There is a documented performance issue with certain Peplink hardware and the Starlink ethernet adapter. Check [this forum post](https://forum.peplink.com/t/throughput-issues-when-connecting-to-a-starlink-gen-2-router/62cba0d0e3d5c2aca578eb69/?ref=seabits.com) for more details. Workarounds exist for this older hardware. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Setup-Management-IP.png) Setting the Management IP Address Once you have the Starlink ethernet adapter connected to the WAN port and you have verified the port is up and you have internet access, you will want to configure the Management IP Address so that you can access the dishy using the Starlink app while on your Peplink WiFi network. 1. Click into the WAN connection, find the "Hostname (Optional)" option under WAN Connection Settings 2. Click on the little question mark next to the "Hostname (Optional)" item. 3. A box will pop up - click the "here" link to enable the Management IP address option. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Starlink-Management-IP.png) Management IP address setting 4\. Under the Management IP Address field, enter in an address in the 192.168.100.x range that doesn't conflict with the router address (.1) - I chose 192.168.100.100. You can apply these settings or continue on to the Health Check section since it is in the same screen but further down. This setup will allow you to manage your dishy via the Starlink app while connected to your Peplink WiFi network, and also via [http://dishy.starlink.com/](http://dishy.starlink.com/?ref=seabits.com) which you can use from any computer on that same network. ### Health Check Health checks are essential for any connection, but I have modified mine a bit for Starlink given my testing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/starlink-health-checks-peplink.png) Starlink health checks 1. Scroll down on the Starlink ethernet WAN connection to the Health Check Settings. 2. Change the Health Check Method to "HTTP" 3. For URL 1 use: captive.apple.com/ Matching string: Success 4. For URL 2 use: neverssl.com/ Matching string: NeverSSL 5. Timeout is 4 seconds 6. Health check interval should be 5 seconds 7. Health check retries is 3 8. Recovery retries is 1 These settings use two reliable websites to check against to see if they are reachable, and it looks for specific words on the pages to ensure that everything is working. It tries to do this every 5 seconds, and it will consider the Starlink connection failed if it fails 3 times. If it succeeds once, it considers the connection back up again. This means it could take 15 seconds before the connection is flagged as failed, but is about as aggressive as I would be - otherwise with transient issues you might cause the connection to be listed as down when it really isn't. ### Upload / Download Bandwidth Also in the details for the WAN connection connected to Starlink, you should set the upload and download bandwidth limits so that other features within the Peplink router understand the overall bandwidth available. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Starlink-WAN-bandwidth-peplink.png) Scroll down in the details page for the Starlink connection to the WAN Connections area. Set the Upload and Download Bandwidth to something similar to the above. I choose conservative values rather than the maximums so that calculations are more realistic. These are the average numbers I see on a daily basis, so you may need to do some testing to get these for your area/situation. These numbers are used with the SpeedFusion feature and other load balancing algorithms to calculate which internet connection to use when you're using them in a redundant fashion. ℹ️ You can also specify upload/download bandwidth numbers for cellular connections. This is essential if you want to balance the traffic between all of the connections appropriately based on the overall performance. ### Bypass Mode Once you have the Starlink router working over ethernet and the health checks are working reliably, I would recommend turning on Bypass Mode. This turns off the WiFi radios in the Starlink router and uses the ethernet adapter only. There are two reasons for doing this: 1. **Less WiFi networks** \- less WiFi networks are better. Boats already have too many, and if you're in a marina, you're familiar with the hundreds that are near you from chart plotters, hotspots, routers, and everything else. 2.4Ghz WiFi in particular is crowded, and if you can eliminate one more network, that means your Peplink equipment will have a better time doing its thing. 2. **Less work for Starlink?** \- my experience with most devices is that the less they have to do, the better they perform. It's also just less complexity. Keep in mind that when you do this, you can't connect to the Starlink WiFi network until you perform a factory reset to get the WiFi network back. That shouldn't be an issue if you followed the instructions above to enable the management IP. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/IMG_8852.jpeg) Starlink App - Bypass Mode 1. To turn on Bypass Mode, go into Settings on your Starlink App. 2. Expand the Advanced area 3. Turn on the toggle for "Bypass Starlink WiFi router" and click Save. Follow the prompts The unit will reboot - it can take a bit longer than a normal reboot - not sure why, but don't lose hope if it seems like a few minutes. --- These are the basics to getting Peplink + Starlink to work together, but to take advantage of key features, you need to configure SpeedFusion and related settings. If you don't want redundancy, or don't have a router with a cellular connection, you could stop here and skip the rest. ## Peplink + Starlink Advanced Setup To get the biggest benefit, there are additional setup steps required. Some of these steps will vary depending on the type of Peplink router you have - the number of cellular connections, etc. ### Priorities One of the most basic features of Peplink products is to be able to control the priorities of your connections. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/dashboard1.png) Peplink dashboard showing priorities Depending on your location and work criticality, as well as your cellular plan limits, you may wish to have both your Starlink connection and a cellular connection in the same priority so that they share duties of keeping you connected. This is especially useful when using SpeedFusion (next step) so that there is no delay when Starlink fails - otherwise, the health check has to fail before it will begin using Priority 2 items which can take 15 seconds. However, keep in mind by doing this that when we configure SpeedFusion below, you will be using bandwidth on both connections \- you'll need to keep this in mind depending on your monthly bandwidth limit for your cellular plan. The usage is limited to how you configure things and usually will only include your critical work apps, but it is still a consideration when planning. If I am on a critical video call, I always have at least one cellular connection in Priority 1 with Starlink to provide complete redundancy. ### SpeedFusion Connect The next step is to enable [SpeedFusion Connect](https://sfc.peplink.com/?t=connect&ref=seabits.com). This is technology that Peplink has had for a few years that really sets their solution apart from others. It allows you to combine multiple internet sources and provide reliable, redundant, and optimized connectivity for critical traffic and devices. It does this by combining two or more internet connections and sending parts or all of your critical traffic over those connections at the same time to a location in the cloud, watching the connection quality, and changing things on the fly to provide the best result. I'm simplifying the entire solution, and I'm not going into all of the settings and details in this guide, but will give you enough to be dangerous. That being said, there are a lot of steps here, and they have changed slightly every few months as Peplink refines things, so be aware. SpeedFusion Connect is a paid service, but you get an initial amount with almost all initial purchased Peplink products. As an example, for 1TB it's $40 - very affordable for the features it provides. If you use it for critical traffic, it would be hard to get through that amount in a year's time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/SpeedFusion-cloud.png) Once you sign up or activate your existing subscription, you'll need to go into SpeedFusion Connect and Choose a Cloud Location. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/SpeedFusion-locations.png) You'll then be presented with a list of locations. Choose the one closest to you. Once you've selected a location, click Apply in the upper right and save the configuration. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/SpeedFusion-location.png) Once that has saved, click on the location you selected to see more of the details. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/SpeedFusion-settings.png) SpeedFusion tunnel settings This is where it gets a bit more complicated. These are the settings that dictate how the connection is optimized and what happens to the various internet connections and traffic. ℹ️ All of these options will use more bandwidth depending on how you configure them. In some cases, it will duplicate your traffic out each of your internet connections in the SpeedFusion Connect tunnel - read the details for each if you are curious and keep this in mind for any monthly limits. **WAN Smoothing** \- this helps with both packet loss and high latency. I set both options to "Normal". **Forward Error Correction** \- abbreviated as FEC, deals with packet loss. It will send duplicates of traffic to prevent lost packets. I set mine to "Low". **Policy** \- I use "Dynamic Weighted Bonding" as it is built for cellular and Starlink-like connections. This is how the outbound link is selected when traffic is needed to be sent out. **Congestion Latency Level** \- I use "Low" which monitors the congestion level of a connection. This setting is a bit more aggressive, but I would prefer not to be sending out Zoom video over a link that is not doing well. These are the settings I've found to be the most useful to maintain high quality connections for critical work apps. Keep in mind that all of these can be adjusted depending on many, many factors - the quality of your cellular connections, if you're underway or at anchor, the speed of all of your connections, and many other factors. This is what works for me, and your mileage may vary. ### Using SpeedFusion Connect You have the basic SpeedFusion Connect up and running, but none of your devices or traffic is actually going through it yet. You have to specify the devices or types of traffic that you want to send out this connection. There are two options I recommend: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/SpeedFusion-clients.png) **Optimize Cloud Application** allows you to choose specific types of traffic, regardless of what device on your network generates it, to send out the SpeedFusion connection, making it more reliable, etc. This is the one I recommend using the most, and the one I use for almost all of my configurations both for my own network, and those folks I setup through consulting. **Connect Clients to Cloud** allows you to pick specific clients to use SpeedFusion for **everything** they transmit. Be careful with this option, as this means everything from the computer or device in question will use the SpeedFusion connection. This might seem like a good thing, but think of software and app updates, and other non-critical traffic. Some of those are huge, and could burn through your bandwidth limits quickly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Optimize-Cloud-Application.png) You can choose from a list that Peplink maintains (and has added to with future releases) of the most popular business applications that you might want to send out your SpeedFusion connection. As I mention above, this is the way I use the system 99% of the time, and it works great. It ensures my office applications and video and audio sessions are using the most redundant connection out of my network. ### Other Settings In order to get the most out of your SpeedFusion connection, I also recommend these settings. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/PepVPN-failover-1.png) In my product under Advanced > SpeedFusion (can be found elsewhere on other products) you will find the above screen showing options for PepVPN with SpeedFusion. Under the bottom box, PepVPN Settings, I always select "Faster" which is the time it takes to notice a failed connection when using SpeedFusion. These checks are different than the health checks we set up earlier. The health checks are for the health of the overall connection - does it actually have internet access, etc. These checks are whether the connection is good enough to deal with the traffic across it, and whether it is connected to SpeedFusion Cloud. By changing this to Faster, it will result in more checks of all of your connections, which means more bandwidth used, so be aware with cellular connections. However, I want failures to be detected as quickly as possible, this is the best setting without being too extreme. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/Optimizations.png) DSL / PepVPN Optimization Since both Starlink and most cellular connections have asynchronous bandwidth (higher download vs. lower upload), you will want to turn on the two options shown above. In my Peplink product, they are under Advanced > Application, but they can also be under Network > QoS > Application. Both use the info you input under Upload / Download Bandwidth above for the Starlink connection, so make sure to do that. It will also help if you do the same for your cellular connections. These options ensure that you don't overwhelm the upload side of the connection when things are busy, and also make sure that the SpeedFusion traffic takes priority over other traffic on the connection. ### Monitoring SpeedFusion At this point, you have the SpeedFusion connection configured, and have chosen some traffic types to send out the link, but how do you know if it is working? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/SpeedFusion-on-the-dashboard.png) On your Peplink dashboard, you should see a "SpeedFusion Connect" section if you scroll down. It should show if you are connected, and details about your plan and data usage. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/SpeedFusion-stats.png) You can also head over to Status > SpeedFusion and see the status of each internet connection, upload/download speeds, latency and packet loss. If you click on the little graph icon above that, you can immerse yourself in lots more details for those wanting more real-time data. I have the above screen open almost always while in meetings to monitor the status of connections and latency. To test SpeedFusion, you can add a client into the "Connect Clients to Cloud" list that I referenced above, and do a SpeedTest or other method to generate traffic. You should be able to come back to this screen and see the stats real-time. Remember to remove your device from the list after testing. Another good way to test is to use some of the apps you configured to use the connection, or start a test video call with Zoom or Microsoft Teams, and watch the stats on the page above. ## Limitations & Notes ### SpeedFusion throughput limits There are limits on the maximum license and hardware capability for SpeedFusion. The first is in the license or service you buy from Peplink. Most of them are capped at 200Mbps, which should be more than enough for most people, but if you're doing constant SpeedTests through your SpeedFusion tunnel (you know who you are!) you might notice this cap. Each type of Peplink hardware and router have limits for this as well. For instance, my MBX Mini 5G has a limit of 600Mbps, the BR1 Pro 5G has a limit of 400Mbps, and the MAX BR1 Mini (HW3) is only 80Mbps. These are also best case numbers, and I've seen them be less than this in the real world. This cap really shouldn't affect your day to day use as long as you are selectively using SpeedFusion for only a part of your traffic. If you decide to run all of your traffic through it, or have a very busy system, you may run into this limit. ### SpeedFusion Cloud Names & Security When you do SpeedTests you may notice strange names for your source such as "Choopa". This is because your traffic is actually being sent across your internet connections to a location that Peplink maintains in a datacenter in the cloud. This usually doesn't affect most applications like Office 365 and Zoom, but it can cause problems with apps or websites that check where you are "coming from". Some of these may be for security reasons, or to prevent people from using VPNs (which SpeedFusion is considered) to get around streaming or security restrictions. Keep this in mind if you have issues with corporate applications or if you decide to use SpeedFusion for streaming. ## Conclusion Starlink is game-changing technology for boating and many other markets. I personally rely on it for most of my connectivity needs, and it has enabled me to work remotely in even more places than ever before. But it can't be used alone reliably, and shouldn't be used underway at all. Combining both Peplink and Starlink allow for a very redundant and controllable network setup aboard. The basic configuration is pretty easy to get going. Doing a bit more configuration can provide an even more usable setup by leveraging SpeedFusion and other Peplink features. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 30 comments bsaitz@bsaitz October 25, 2022 Thanks, great detail! Dave Horne@mybuzzardsbay.com November 19, 2022 I’m looking to install the high performance flat dish on my new yacht (Maritimo M60). I don’t work on the boat and I’m looking for something to stream my Roku in places that have cellular congestion. I plan to put Roku on each TV. How far will the Star Link router reach? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 November 19, 2022 That’s a hard question to answer definitively. Boats aren’t like houses in that there are a lot more surfaces and materials that tend to mess with or block WiFi signals. It would depend on where the TVs are going to be located, and where the Starlink router is located. Most boats around 60 feet or longer I have designed solutions for require two access points or WiFi routers for good coverage throughout the boat, especially further belowdecks. Starlink does have a mesh product, which is essentially a second WiFi router that extends your range, but it is Starlink specific. I am not a big fan of using their equipment in general because of the lack of control and options. But it is an easy way to add more capacity. Nick@ATHikerIn05 November 21, 2022 So I’ve been experiencing an odd situation with my Starlink that I have connected via the ethernet adapter to my Pepwave MAX BR1 Pro 5G that I’m hoping someone here can help me sort out. For reasons unknown I can’t surf too or ping [Google.com](http://google.com/?ref=seabits.com), but I can ping 8.8.8.8\. I can also both surf too and ping [Yahoo.com](http://yahoo.com/?ref=seabits.com). When I connect directly to my Starlink via the Starlink router I can access Google and do everything else as normal though. So my feeling is that there is something going on with my Pepwave but for the life of me I can’t figure out what that is. If anyone has any ideas on this, or could help me troubleshoot it I would be eternally grateful. Thanks. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 December 09, 2022 So it’s just Google you can’t access? Any success since you posted this? Brent Reys@BGR December 13, 2022 What are the benefits of having both RV with motion and the high-performance dish together via Peplink? Will Starlink allow both on the app and account? I was reading an article on Peplink’s website there was a recommended configuration. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 January 04, 2023 I have both the rectangular dish using the RV plan, and the flat high performance dish using the RV plan - I assume that’s what you were asking about? Having both just means that I have some redundancy if one of the dishes has a hardware issue, or if by some chance, once is obstructed and the other isn’t (rare). Brent Reys@BGR January 10, 2023 I wanted to know if you could have 2 Dishies on one account? I have the RV version now and just purchased the HP flat to replace it and just noticed your setup on your website having both. The cable for the HP is huge and difficult to get through my hard top area and was just thinking about keep my RV version that seems to work fine at Elliott Bay, but haven’t tried is underway or on anchor. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 January 12, 2023 I have two dishes on one account, so that’s not a problem. I had 3 at one point. I have 3 dishes aboard right now and the Flat High Performance definitely works better at anchor and underway than any of the others. Maciek Sarnowicz@Maciek February 09, 2023 Steve, thank you for the great article. I followed it and been able to setup SL + Peplink with no problem. I do still struggle with actually understanding the concept of ‘Management IP Address’. Specifically, why is it the 192.168.100.100 address that you put in. For this to work on my boat I had to put in 192.168.50.100\. My default LAN is 192.168.50.1\. Is yours on 192.168.100.1? But then that’s the dishy address. As you can see I’m confused. Another thing I noticed is that if the SL is online but cannot connect, and the healthcheck fails, the SL app will not connect to the dishy through Peplink network. It will if I connect directly to SL wifi. It seems like Peplink is somehow blocking that connection when healthcheck fails. If I disable healthcheck, the SL app will connect fine through Peplink. Best regards, Maciek Warp10@Warp10↩ #11 March 14, 2023 Steve, My kit came with a CAT6 RG45 terminated wire able to plug directly into the PoE, thereby eliminating the need and additional draw of the Starlink WiFi router and the Ethernet adapter. I was able to get a connection (not perfect but workable) using a small Gb NetGear Switch between the HP antenna and the PepWave MAX-BR1-PRO-LTEA-W. Static: IP of 192.168.100.99 Mask: 255.255.0.0 Gateway: 192.168.100.1 I have not tried your solution for the Health Check yet. Have you tried this direct connection and if not, why? Thanks, Pierre Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #13 March 15, 2023 Hi Pierre, Which version dish do you have? The original circular one (which is what I suspect), the rectangular RV/residential one, or the more square-ish High Performance/Maritime version? In the US, the RV/Residential and HP/Maritime versions require either the Starlink router, or the Starlink power supply in the case of the HP/Maritime version. The older circular dishes came with a router, but the router-to-dish cabling was standard ethernet, and you could send PoE down it to power it. I have one of those dishes in use, but they aren’t as performant as the newer ones, and aren’t sold or shipped as often here in the US anymore. Warp10@Warp10 March 15, 2023 Steve, I have the (HP) High Performance newer antenna, hence my question. Once I have a direct internet connection working properly with the POE, I intend to remove it and provide my own 24Vdc to 56Vdc POE and get my internet connection directly from there. I have not checked the POE wiring of the Starlink POE adapter yet, I suspect that it will be the same Starlink specific wiring as the older versions. Cheers, Pierre Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #15 March 15, 2023 Then I’m not sure I understand your question… Are you asking whether I’ve used the cable only version? Yes… The Flat High Performance, at least in the US and Canada, requires that you use the provided Starlink power supply. It does come with an ethernet cable which you can use to connect it to a router, but you still need the Starlink power supply. You don’t need the router. I did an overview of the Flat High Performance dish at [Starlink flat high performance in-motion dish initial impressions](https://seabits.com/starlink-flat-high-performance/) There are a number of folks who have figured out the pinouts to the dish and gone as far as trying to provide PoE power without the Starlink power supply, but at 320W of total power, that’s going to be a pretty specialized or at least industrial version of a supply - different than the hacks that a lot of folks have done for the smaller dishes. Warp10@Warp10 March 15, 2023 Thank you Steve, can you share the Peplink configuration when you were connected directly to the POE. Also, were you using a switch in between the Peplink and the POE. Thanks, Pierre Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #17 March 20, 2023 The same management IP address that I cover in this article can be used for the round dish. That’s the only special thing to consider. With my particular hardware setup, I used the provided Starlink power supply that was sending PoE to the dish, and no switch in between. Some older Peplink hardware does perform better with a switch in between due to a hardware incompatibility. Maciek Sarnowicz@Maciek May 11, 2023 *Posting again in hope of an answer* Steve, thank you for the great article. I followed it and have been able to set up SL + Peplink with no problem. I do still struggle with actually understanding the concept of ‘Management IP Address’. Specifically, why is it the 192.168.100.100 address that you put in. For this to work on my boat, I had to put in 192.168.50.100\. My default LAN is 192.168.50.1\. Is yours on 192.168.100.1? But then that’s the dishy address. As you can see, I’m confused. Another thing I noticed is that if the SL is online but cannot connect, and the health check fails, the SL app will not connect to the dishy through the Peplink network. It will if I connect directly to SL wifi. It seems like Peplink is somehow blocking that connection when healthcheck fails. If I disable healthcheck, the SL app will connect fine through Peplink. Best regards, Maciek beastie@beastie May 28, 2023 Great article. I used very similar health check settings but I’m struggling with the configuration. Peplink continuously sends me disconnect warnings although the Starlink connection is very solid with no obstructions. This leads to instability in my speed fusion setup because peplink each time tries to do a hot failover. The Starlink app does report very frequent issues of the satellite not connecting to the internet but each one of these outages rarely lasts more than a second. [![IMG_8825](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/755651c26120e00cfa4f9f1ac01f9fa0cdb90634.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/755651c26120e00cfa4f9f1ac01f9fa0cdb90634.png?ref=seabits.com "IMG_8825") beastie@beastie↩ #20 May 28, 2023 [![IMG_8822](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/783478200501223fbbb91f226afd575a7c3c025f.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/783478200501223fbbb91f226afd575a7c3c025f.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "IMG_8822") Brian Dahlmann@Brian\_Dahlmann June 16, 2023 Hi Steve, Would you have any updates to these recommendations when using the Bypass function with the RV/Roam systems? As the SL router is altogether Physically bypassed, is there suggested changes to protocol? Also, an anecdotal question- Having recently commissioned a RV high performance with a BR1Pro 5G I experience anticipated performance in stock setup through SL router but, when bypassed the speed drops to a crawl (and there is a warning of “Poor Cable Connection”). If the router is reverted to factory settings, performance increases 10-fold. Is this an isolated case, or a known phenomenon? Best regards, Brian Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #19 July 14, 2023 The 192.168.100.0 networking range is the Starlink router uses to communicate between itself and the Peplink. 192.168.100.1 is the IP address of the Starlink router itself and is how the app you have on your phone communicates with it. By setting a management address of 192.168.100.100 on the Peplink, that allows the Peplink to route the traffic from the Starlink app on your phone so you can manage it. Sounds like you might have other configuration or network issues. The health checks and management setting is something I’ve used on hundreds of setups without issues. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #20 July 14, 2023 That seems like you might have some sort of issue with the dish, or an obstruction. Looks like you’re getting an interruption every minute. Really the only way to get 100% reliable connectivity if you can’t fix that part is to have both your Starlink and cellular connections at priority 1 so they are both being used at the same time. That way the cellular connection will cover the outages from Starlink, but you’ll have slightly better results with the lower latency Starlink connection when it’s up. The downside is that it will use a lot of bandwidth on your cellular plan which might run you up against an overall cap of some sorts. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #22 July 14, 2023 I think I cover some of the bypass bits in the article. In general, there’s not much you have to do other than add a management address. If you’re seeing poor cable connection, you likely actually have a bad cable connection, or something funky with the WAN port on the router. I’ve seen this a few times, once with one of my Starlink setups, and it actually turned out to be a bad ethernet cable/ethernet adapter on the Starlink side. There are performance challenges with older Peplink products that cut performance down much lower when cabled versus when using WiFi as WAN, but the BR1 Pro 5G is not one of them. This sounds like some other sort of issue. beastie@beastie↩ #24 July 14, 2023 The issue was an incompatibility between the Starlink and the Peplink transit Ethernet chipsets. I installed a dummy switch between the two (Peplink recommendation) and that solved it. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #26 July 14, 2023 Ah! You must have one of the hardware platforms that I noted in my article that points to this forum post: [Peplink | Pepwave - Forum](https://forum.peplink.com/t/throughput-issues-when-connecting-to-a-starlink-gen-2-router/62cba0d0e3d5c2aca578eb69/?ref=seabits.com) The super-old ethernet chipsets they were using caused issues that couldn’t be resolved without a switch in between. Not the best solution, but Peplink isn’t a huge vendor that Starlink really cares about, so getting them to change something was not going to happen. It also appeared to affect a number of other products out there using similar or identical ethernet chipsets. DavidBillstrom@DavidBillstrom April 21, 2024 Steve, appreciate the article… read it the first time when it came out, and again today… since I have my Max Transit Duo Pro configured and running with multiple cellular, and the refurb Gen3 SL is inbound. So the obvious question: any updates/changes/advice for the Gen3 SL? I’m on Residential to start, but will switch to RV after tested and running. And setup fusion (finally). And 12VDC power. Any thoughts, relative to your article given the Gen3 ? Thanks, David. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #28 April 22, 2024 DavidBillstrom: > Any thoughts, relative to your article given the Gen3 ? Hi David, I’ve not found anything so far that would require a different setup or configuration with Peplink and the gen3 dish. Everything in the article seems to still apply. Of course, if you want to use things underway, the High Performance dish still continues to be the best choice, but the residential/RV dishes work as well as long as you don’t go too fast. Frank@Frank September 25, 2024 I also have questions about the Standard Gen3 set up for use with my Peplink MAX BR1 Mini. The new Standard dish has ethernet ports. Does that eliminate the need for an Adapter for use with the Peplink router? If so, is the Starlink cable, router and power supply still required? Does the non-actuated dish still require power? Frank@Frank↩ #30 September 28, 2024 I now realize that it is the router, not the dish, that has ethernet ports. Does that mean the router must be retained for ethernet connection to Peplink? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #31 October 03, 2024 If you are going to use the gen3 without an aftermarket power supply or other kit, you’ll need to retain the Starlink router and connect it either via Ethernet or [WiFi as WAN](https://seabits.com/wifi-as-wan/). If you don’t want the WiFi network to be broadcast from the Starlink router, and want your Peplink to do that instead (which is the usual choice), you can put the Starlink router in bypass mode which I believe I cover in the article that is connected to this forum post. ### Kaos after 8 months URL: https://seabits.com/kaos-after-8-months/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:12:17.000Z --- It's been about 8 months since [Kaos](https://seabits.com/kaos/) joined our family, and a lot of projects and improvements have happened. I've put a lot of hours on the engines, watermaker, and generator, and had the opportunity to experience her in various conditions. ## Trips So far, I've put about 300 hours on the engines, which is actually sort of low for my normal cruising style. I've done a number of trips ranging from weekends, several weeks, and a 30+ day trip up into Canada to Princess Louisa Inlet and other places. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/E7829AC5-B1DD-4436-B37A-3C772C1D20CB.jpeg) Kaos in Princess Louisa Inlet Many of the early trips were shorter due to poor house/inverter battery bank design that I had to live with until my finalized electrical design and install was completed in May 2022\. Since then, things have been much more enjoyable and we continue to tweak and optimize things to make our time aboard more comfortable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/FullSizeRender.jpeg) Kaos at anchor in Cameleon Harbour in the Thurlow Islands I'm currently up in Desolation Sound and the Discovery Islands enjoying the last warm weeks of summer and working remotely (as usual) and the boat is working very well. ## Projects Where do I begin? There have been so many projects and mini-projects - here are a few of the big ones and why I have been so busy the last 6 months. - **3 Week Yard Visit -** Kaos needed new shaft seals, and those were done in March. While I was out, I ended up deciding to replace the propellors and move from a 3-blade to 4-blade model. I'm liking the extra speed and less vibration I feel with the new props. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_6045.jpeg) New 4 blade props - **Head upgrade** \- from VacuFlush to Dometic MasterFlush plus a bidet from BioBidet. We did a similar upgrade on Rendezvous, and it's one of the first things I did on Kaos as well. - **Water system upgrade** \- multiple filters, new pumps, UV sterilization, AC powered pump, and more. This is always high on the list with any new boat. This time around I went for bigger filters, a bigger pump, and a bigger Acuva UV LED unit. - **Anchor & rode upgrade** \- 120 lb Rocna Vulcan + 400' of G4 3/8" chain. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_5981.jpeg) New Rocna 55kg anchor and Mantus swivel - **Lighting** \- this is an ongoing project - so far the interior lights have all been upgraded to LED saving over 40 amps of DC power usage (if they were all on). Outdoor and other smaller accent lights are in process of being updated and replaced right now ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_7399.jpeg) Some of the new cockpit lighting that has been added - **Electrical System** \- this will be a separate article given the amount of work and details. Moved from an inverter bank + house bank to a single bank of 24 volt LiFePO4 batteries plus dual 5000W inverters, busses, and charging upgrades. Completely changed the usability of the boat, as expected! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_6431.jpeg) New electrical system mid-upgrade - **Electronics** \- this is ongoing, but initially I've added over 25 new sensors, new radar, satellite compass, TimeZero Professional, Maretron N2Kview, Grafana/Influx/Signal K, two new touch screens in the pilot house, and many other things. More details on this in a future article. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/Screenshot-2022-09-04-110300.png) My "kitchen sink" display in Maretron N2Kview - **Cameras** \- I added two AXIS dome cameras - one in the cockpit to help with docking, and one in the engine room for monitoring. The cameras produce a single spherical image that can be viewed many different ways depending on how you want to see the image. This makes it great for different uses - I use the panorama view on the cockpit camera while underway to see who is behind me, and the focused view for the edge of the boat while docking. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/cockpit-cam.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/engine-cam.png) AXIS dome cameras - **Internet** \- tons of work here (you can see version 1 of the system at [Kaos initial internet setup](https://seabits.com/kaos-initial-internet-setup/)) including a new main central router, dual Starlinks, access points, antennas, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_7789--1-.jpeg) Dual Starlink testing setup - **Sound system -** being a musician, it was important early on to get a good sound system setup aboard. After a lot of thought and research, I decided to go with Polk Audio speakers everywhere paired with 4x Sonos Amps. The boat was already wired centrally, but all of the speakers were blown or in poor condition. Most of the time was spent finding speakers that matched the existing holes or mounts. There is still a bit of tuning to do with the system, but I am very pleased with the overall result. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_6171.jpeg) - **Interior** \- Josh has done a fantastic job of finding new things to make the interior more comfortable and modernize it a bit. New pillows, bedding, blankets, and lots of creature comfort upgrades in the heads. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/05BB5ABA-0C0C-49E6-B224-20B49E046D99.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/A4316776-D507-497A-B9E4-FC5AA92EA6DA.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/E9166F7E-9530-4243-B190-346400E6715C.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/4F19A519-D686-4322-9D90-8892AB634C81.jpeg) - **Air Conditioning in Pilothouse** \- replaced the aging AC unit in the pilothouse with a newer system + EasyStart. There were tons of other smaller things like a new BBQ, stern cleats for the dinghy, fixes for various things that were broken, new washdown setup, and the many other things you find when you buy a new boat. ## Future Projects There are a lot of projects on the list for the future - here are a few of the big ones **Convert windlass to 24v** \- the current windlass is 12 volts and works fine, but it can cause voltage sags on the main house supply, even with the Victron DC-DC systems I'm using with the new electrical system. I moved the bow thruster battery bank from the engine room to the hallway outside the master berth and it is 24 volt already, so switching should be easy. **Interior construction** \- we'd like to remove the settee/couch entirely and swap it to the other side of the salon. However, instead of a built-in system like most boats have of this era, we'd like something a bit more modern and couch-like so it's more comfortable to lay on. To do that requires removing the TV nook thing, ripping out the old couch, moving some heating vents around, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/DSC05727.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/DSC05723.jpeg) Kaos current salon setup In addition, we want to rip out the carpet in the salon and replace it with some sort of engineered wood floor. I've seen this done on a number of boats with various products and it looks very good. Once we're done with that, we'd build/buy a storage system along with TV lift on the side of the boat where the couch used to be, adding a lot more sensible storage and using the space better overall. In addition to all of this, we want to replace the counter tops in the galley and both heads. **Oven / dishwasher** \- one downside to Kaos is the lack of a built-in oven. We have a very large convection microwave, but it doesn't crisp up the bottoms of things as well. There is a portable Breville oven that we also had on Rendezvous and works extremely well, but it sits up on the storage area in the pilot house and has to be used from that side. There is space where I took out the trash compactor if we also removed a small sliding drawer for both an oven and dishwasher, and I am leaning towards this as a solution. However, we currently have trash/recycle there as well as our alcohol stores, so we'd need to likely finish the project above before we do this one... **Engine Instruments** \- similar to the [Actisense EMU-1](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/) I used on Rendezvous, I'd like to digitize all of the instruments on Kaos. I'm leaning towards the [Chetco SeaGauge](https://digitalmarinegauges.com/seagauge-g2-28-function-sensor-interface-unit/?ref=seabits.com) unit since I have a lot more gauge types and inputs than a single Actisense can handle. This is quickly becoming a priority as some of the gauges are becoming less reliable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_5336.jpeg) There are a whole list of additional projects that aren't even in the scoping stage yet - but that's part of why I love living on a boat - being able to work on projects that improve how you live every day. ## Good Things Mechanically Kaos has been near perfect. It was one of the things I was very attracted to with the boat when I first saw her, and the survey proved that out. After 8 months of daily usage, I am very pleased with the performance of the engines, generator, water maker, and all of the other major systems (minus the repaired diesel heater) without any huge issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_8003.jpeg) Kaos engine room with updated lighting The space is generous everywhere and has been wonderful to be able to use. We've had plenty of folks aboard and been able to do a lot of entertaining without the challenges of previous boats. Having clear views from all of the upper areas outside makes it enjoyable as well even if you are in the galley cooking. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_7126.jpeg) ## Challenging Things Kaos developed a list after I removed a ton of older batteries during the electrical upgrade. This resulted in things like the fridge door not closing correctly, and my bathroom door hitting me in the head randomly because of my poor balance. After a lot of messing around, I ended up getting some ballast bags and seem to have resolved it, but it is something I will need to keep an eye on. Many smaller repairs or maintenance on non-mechanical systems have needed some attention. A great example is the forward hatch in the owners stateroom. The plexiglas portion of the hatch appears to have come out at some point, and the repair was done with some sort of sealant that didn't bond, and wasn't used all the way around the hatch. As a result, during a rainstorm in Canada, we saw a small leak, and I ended up doing an emergency repair. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_5768.jpeg) The diesel heater was also a big pain point early on in the year with multiple failures and issues. Sure Marine had it on their bench at one point during some very cold temperatures, and I had to rely on the reverse cycle system for heating in February. Finally, after replacing a few different pieces, and a failed inner portion of the burn chamber, the system was back up and running. Many other repairs or fixes to things fall in a similar vein and many have had to be addressed. Velcro strips used as water gathering devices in windowsills (which are now moldy), wood sticks used to keep stainless support bars apart in the flybridge, and a few other similar things. ## Underway Kaos is extremely stable underway due to the extra weight and placement of things as well as the stabilizer system. That is a great improvement given how sensitive I am to wave action and how quickly I get seasick. She likes to run at about 9.5-10 knots at about 1500 RPM on both engines. This results in about 0.8 gallons per mile or about 8 gallons per hour at that speed, which is pretty good considering you're shoving 65,000 pounds of home around through the water. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_7283.jpeg) Kaos running at 17 knots Around 2300 RPM we do between 17-18 knots and the boat really firms up. Her hull is built to be at this speed most of the time, and it shows. It almost feels like she is planing or at least partially planing, and the wake gets a lot smaller and less terrifying. I haven't worked out the fuel burn at this rate, but I know it isn't going to be as optimal as trawler speeds. ## At Anchor I'm even more pleased with Kaos at anchor, mainly for how comfortable I am even with waves and weather. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_5300.jpeg) Kaos at anchor January 2022 in Echo Bay, Sucia Island [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) was about 30,000 pounds with a full load, while Kaos is closer to 70,000 pounds. In addition, Rendezvous fuel tank was on the center line underneath the stern master berth, and only 300 gallons. Kaos has two 400 gallon diesel tanks out on the edges of the boat near the stern in the engine room. This adds a lot of weight outboard that can counteract any wave action. There are a number of anchorages with lots of waves such as Liberty Bay in Poulsbo, Blind Bay in the San Juan Islands, and Echo Bay at Sucia Island. In all of those spots, Kaos has been way more stable than Rendezvous ever was. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/E7242E29-F9C7-44C4-A29F-4C26B8AF8EE0.jpeg) I'm looking forward to the next 8 months and more projects and improvements along the way. So far, we love Kaos and hope to experience even more wonderful sunsets and calm anchorages in the future, and hope I can sleep as peacefully as Frannie does when we're near our next waterfall! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 15 comments Jake\_Brownson@Jake\_Brownson September 05, 2022 I enjoy following your projects. Thanks for posting, looking forward to the future posts you referenced. mgfite98034@mgfite98034 September 05, 2022 Great to have an update from you. The electrical system upgrade looks awesome. I look forward to hearing more about it. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 September 05, 2022 Jake\_Brownson: > I enjoy following your projects. Thanks for posting, looking forward to the future posts you referenced. Some of the upcoming articles on the electrical system, water system, and others are definitely of high interest for me to complete! Thanks for your kind words! mgfite98034: > Great to have an update from you. The electrical system upgrade looks awesome. I look forward to hearing more about it. Yes, many folks have been asking about my electrical system and why I chose 24 volt over 48, what happened with the first alternator fire, and more. I hope to have that all in an article here in the next couple of weeks! chris@chris September 06, 2022 I have been finding your articles very interesting, thanks for that! Regarding your electrical installation, would you mind sharing some of your Victron settings especially ones for veconfig? I was just recently up in Desolation Sound and between generator and shore power issues, I’m trying to narrow down what best settings might be. Looking over VRM data I saw shore power dips at one location below 54 hz, causing issues with disconnects etc. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 September 07, 2022 chris: > would you mind sharing some of your Victron settings especially ones for veconfig There’s a decent amount in veconfig for various different products. Are you specifically looking for information for the inverter side of the world? Those settings would also be dependent on which model of inverter, how many, and your battery bank and input side of the world. I could post what I have, but it might not make any sense without all of that background which isn’t just a few paragraphs Rob Slifkin@Rob\_Slifkin September 07, 2022 Based on the wake in the 17 kts picture, I’d say that’s definitely on plane. As far as fuel burn, I’d be surprised if you’re doing better than 0.5 nmpg at that speed. For slow speed, fuel burn and wake would likely be significantly reduced at 8 kts (compared to the 9.5 - 10 mentioned in the writeup). You might need to run the engines up periodically to avoid them loading up at slower speeds like that, however. chris@chris↩ #7 September 07, 2022 steve: > Are you specifically looking for information for the inverter Steve, It might help to share the issues I am having. I have a Quattro and 3x Battleborn GC3 with a Lynx shunt, with a few other bits (Phoenix inverter) due to some 230v devices in this boat. In addition, I have a 9kW Koehler generator . Shore power is 50a. Both run through the Quattro. When connecting to shore power at a dock, the Quattro often disconnects and reconnects a few times in a row - usually when first connecting. Looking this up, it seems it is having problems synchronizing. I found a FAQ from victron that discusses disabling UPS functionality as well as playing with the scale factor, weak ac etc. I don’t think I ever get 50a from shore power at most docks, so I just use 30a or less. Doesn’t help with the initial connection, but that seems to help with losing power at random times. An example- At Toba wilderness all was fine until one evening when the frequency dropped to 54hz at input AC! So was looking for your settings that keep you operating most of the time. Adjusting these values with VEConfig on the fly can be a pain (having to disconnect VeBus controller etc) Secondly, when on generator- and sometimes shore- I have issues with the induction cooktops (and occasionally other devices) losing power and restarting… I can’t seem to see anything in the vrm that corresponds to this issue. This never happens when inverting without the generator running, and the UPS function didn’t help either on or off. Since you likely dock at similar moorages with similar issues , I was curious what your settings are! Cheers! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 September 07, 2022 Rob\_Slifkin: > For slow speed, fuel burn and wake would likely be significantly reduced at 8 kts (compared to the 9.5 - 10 mentioned in the writeup). You might need to run the engines up periodically to avoid them loading up at slower speeds like that, however. Yup! I’ve actually done some basic data gathering at 8 knots and it is much more fuel efficient, but it is not as comfortable. The additional burn at hull speed (about 9.7 knots) is worth it to me for the extra speed and comfort. This is similar to the process/burn/data on my previous boat [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), and other boats I have had in years past. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #9 September 08, 2022 It sound like something a bit more serious is happening. I’ve been to a number of docks up here both with this boat, and my previous two boats with similar equipment, and never had the types of issues you’re talking about at multiple places. Without knowing a bit more about your setup including the size/type/AC power of the inverters, how the shore power and generator power wiring is connected and any devices or things in between them, it will be hard to know exactly why this is happening. There are definitely docks where voltage and frequency sags happen, and in those cases, the inverter will flip into various modes or simply stop using the source AC power. I don’t see it happen constantly except where there are poor overall electrical systems, and then most systems won’t work at all. But like I said, I’ve been to a number of docks up here over the last 10 years with Victron stuff and not had continual issues over and over. Many people put in an isolation/boost transformer in place before other devices if they are traveling to places with wildly varying input power, but that isn’t something I’ve seen absolutely required here in BC as much as it used to be. It almost sounds like your input wiring into the inverter, and potentially the output wiring, might have something going on with it. I’ve always been able to get nearly the max amperage of input power into my Quattros as long as the dock power has reasonable frequency and voltage. The reason I say this is that the fact you have issues with induction while running on generator leads me to believe some of the wiring or devices in line before the inverter are at fault. When you are on dock or generator power, the inverter goes into pass-through mode and won’t get actively involved unless something gets out of spec. Ultimately it sounds like a diagram and review of how things are connected, including product models and details, would help to troubleshoot the problem. chris@chris September 08, 2022 Steve, Thank you for the response! I thought that everyone must have shore power issues up and down here (Lopez, Gabriola, Toba were most recent). On the Generator side, the Victron folks have a faq (link at bottom) about common issues with generators so I thought I just had one of those flaky generators. It’s nice (!?) to hear that my boat wiring might be the problem ! I redid the battery DC side when I installed the 3x 270AH Battleborns and found a few issues (shunt for monitoring was set up incorrectly so that not all charge flowed through it, firmware was really out of date on everything, charge profile for batteries were wrong, and batteries were installed so that the closest battery was over used and over charged etc causing earlier failure). I upgraded some things on that side as well and it seems to be working flawlessly off battery power and charging seems to be fine as well. Your comments and my experience with the DC side have me agreeing that there must be AC side issues as well. I’ll try to dig into that a little more, starting with the shore power and generator connections to the Quattro. After that, it’s going to get complicated really quickly - it’s a used boat and the wiring looms are quite complicated and I don’t have documentation. One additional data point that this reminds me of - when we installed our water maker, the electrician said it wouldn’t work through the Quattro, and they spoke to Victron and couldn’t resolve it. IIRC, something about the waveform or amperage at startup? At the time I was working at AWS and well…super busy…so I didn’t get details. They direct wired to generator and shore with one of those ‘shore or generator’ marine breakers I have to manually switch. I always felt they didn’t understand the Quattro and like I said earlier, the firmware was super out of date and didn’t include the ‘power assist’ functionality, which IMHO may have resolved it, or points to AC issues. (as an aside, I think that Chris + Cherie of Mobile Internet Resource Center got this feature included) As for equipment - the main device is a Quattro 12v 5k (ran 2x 4/0 to house bank) with latest firmware. This manages the AC 1 and AC 2 devices and I can adjust input amps via the Digital Multi Control. It is connected to a Color Control GX Panel and I publish to VRM. A Victron Centaur charger (120v) handles charging for the Thruster(s) and Engine(s) battery banks and can run off Quattro inverter. DC runs to 2\* Victron 230hz Inverters (Phoenix) which handle the EU microwave and washer/dryer. They work fine and are off most of the time w/ remote switch. Obviously they do not run off shore power at all - only from inverter. Boat has solar and has an older Victron MPPT charger which charges house bank. DC house bank goes through Victron Lynx power-in and the corresponding Victron 1000A shunt for all discharge/charge. Generator is a 9 KW Kohler. Induction grill and stove are both Kenyon. Victron Faq about generators: [https://www.victronenergy.com/live/multiplus\_faq](https://www.victronenergy.com/live/multiplus%5Ffaq?ref=seabits.com) cheers! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 September 21, 2022 Sounds like a deeper dive into the whole system might be needed. An electrician can help with this, sometimes, depending on who you can get, and how deep they go. Regardless, it sounds like something funky is going on with the wiring or AC side that could be causing these problems. Wdeertz@Wdeertz September 22, 2022 Thanks for the update. I also use N2KView and love the configurability. I noted on your N2KView screenshot your 24v house voltage was showing 13.1v. I suspect you have the wrong parameter defined for this element. If accurate you’d want this reading definitely to show in red. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 September 22, 2022 Wdeertz: > I noted on your N2KView screenshot your 24v house voltage was showing 13.1v. I suspect you have the wrong parameter defined for this element. If accurate you’d want this reading definitely to show in red This is a bug with Victron / Maretron in the way one handles instances with the other. Victron is sort of the culprit, but Maretron also has some really broken ways of dealing with system versus device instances, which means if you have multiple battery banks, Maretron randomly chooses a different one Wdeertz@Wdeertz September 22, 2022 I have a Victron Cerbo GX and I was able to get the instances working properly in maretron. I have my house bank as instance 0 and my start battery as instance 1 and N2KView has been consistently reporting the correct values. I did initially have conflicts when my Yacht Devices J1939 device was reporting conflicting instances so turned off battery reporting for this device and all is working fine. Steve Mitchell@steve September 22, 2022 Yup, if you have one device it is pretty easy. I have a Cerbo GX, several shunts, two BMS’s, and a couple of distribution busses, plus 2x Inverter/Chargers, each which report battery instances. Some communicate across NMEA 2000, so turning that off breaks the integration. A lot of other folks have had similar issues with Victron to Maretron, and there are some hacks that help, but ultimately there are some bugs that we need to have them fix before it will work right in Maretron. ### Starlink is finally useful aboard URL: https://seabits.com/starlink-finally-useful-aboard/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:03:24.000Z --- Starlink has been getting a lot of attention lately with changes around roaming, and has become a useful option to stay connected while on the water. There are still some limitations and challenges, so don't throw out your cellular router yet! ## Version 2 Dishy I first tested Starlink on board with the version 1 dish back in February 2021 and had OK results. Since then Starlink have released a newer, smaller version 2 dish and have had lots of time to tune things in their software. I've been using the version 2 of the dish on Kaos for the last few months with really good results. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/1C79E67E-5C36-4384-BFBA-C50586C262CF_1_105_c.jpeg) Dishy v2 hanging out in my dinghy The version 2 dish is smaller, rectangular, uses less power, and generally seems to perform better than version 1\. I still have a version 1 dish at our family cabin which is working well too. I originally just stuck the dish in the bow of my dinghy which is in a cradle on the upper deck of Kaos. For the first month or so of testing, this is where I used it from, and it did OK in most cases. Part of my arch and boat blocked it for some of the anchorages and docks I visited, but that was OK at the time. I definitely wanted to move it to a more optimal location for further testing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/E9DA5F57-5216-4FC6-9012-6A2F045EBC6B_1_102_o.jpeg) You can see that with the sailboat masts all around me, and the location of the dish at this point that I was going to be experiencing some sort of outage every 4 minutes, and that was pretty accurate. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/D8B30063-0A84-4C31-93CA-4AA1B7D99536_1_105_c.jpeg) Dishy v2 with pole mount My current and best working setup is on the top of a satellite dome mount using the Starlink pole mount and a stainless steel 1-1/4" standard marine antenna mount. The latter you can't really see, but it is inside the Starlink pole mount, and I cut it down so that the pole mount sits right on top of it flush with the rest of the surface underneath. Not the prettiest installation, but it works extremely well. The dish can rotate 360 degrees without hitting anything, and the biggest obstruction it has to deal with is my anchor/steaming light that you see on the right side of the picture. With this setup, I have only rare interruptions to service, likely from the various obstructions in the marina and just general Starlink stability. ## Power Version 2 dishy takes about 35 watts to run on average, much better than the original version, which topped out around 100 watts. Compared to cellular, though, both are quite high. My Peplink MBX Mini 5G router with 2x 5G cellular radios, 1x USB 5G cellular radio, and 2x dual band WiFi and WAN radios, plus all of the ethernet ports and such, uses 19 watts. That's almost half what Starlink uses, and it's connected to more things. Smaller routers will obviously use less. ## Roaming! Starlink used to restrict usage of your dish within a small area near your service address, and originally you couldn't change it. Midway through 2021 they allowed you to change your address, but even then when you input an address, there was no guarantee it would accept the new location or work there. It was also a clunky manual process. In the last month, these restrictions appear to have been relaxed specifically within the US and Canadian markets. You can now move your dish to other locations and it will continue to work, as long as there is coverage in that area. This is fantastic for those of us who have wanted to use Starlink while cruising to different areas! It does appear that some throttling or slowdowns are possible when you move from area to area, especially if you arrive in an area where there are a decent amount of other Starlink users. I've not seen this myself, but I have heard from a number of folks who have seen speed reductions when roaming. Even with a slowdown, those folks have reported the system is still very usable. Roaming from the US to Canada appears to be working as well. US folks heading into Canada, and Canadians heading into the US have both said that the system keeps working when crossing the border. Both groups have said that throttling did occur in some areas once they crossed the border, but again - just having the connectivity to begin with in places they normally would not have (or been roaming on cellular networks) is still a huge improvement. ℹ️ Roaming is still new and developing. Not all countries or regions are supported, but folks are reporting changes every few days. I suggest participating in forums and Facebook groups to get the latest details. ## Mobility & Warranty One thing to keep in mind is that this version of Starlink is not built for mobility, and if you choose to use it that way (i.e. on a moving boat) that you void your warranty. I suspect this may be because of the motors and the mechanics around that design, that they weren't put together to be constantly changing or dealing with the impacts and movement from a mobile platform. I also worry about having the dish out and working under heavy weather with the current motors it has. Friend Ilker Temir has written a super cool plugin for Signal K that automatically stows the dishy when it detects you are moving, which is perfect for my use case! [GitHub - itemir/signalk-starlink: Starlink support for Signal KStarlink support for Signal K. Contribute to itemir/signalk-starlink development by creating an account on GitHub.![](https://github.com/fluidicon.png)GitHubitemir![](https://opengraph.githubassets.com/bd204cf81849d148692693516a09f529548745f05286f064591e2c0112fdf6f2/itemir/signalk-starlink)](https://github.com/itemir/signalk-starlink?ref=seabits.com) After installing it, you'll get a line item on the dashboard that shows whether Starlink is online. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/image.png) Starlink data in Signal K In addition, the plugin is pulling stats info from Starlink so you can see current throughput, latency, the last outage details and more. There are a lot of folks who are experimenting with disabling the motors to prevent having issues while underway, at anchor, or in heavy weather. I'm watching what folks are doing to see if there are any useful tips or tricks that don't require permanent modifications. I'm happy to stow mine when underway, and only use it in moderate weather. If it does get super stormy, I plan on stowing it manually using the app. ## Radar Woes This version of Starlink appears to be affected by radar emissions, and if close enough, will cause the entire system to stop working, requiring a full power down and reboot cycle to get it working again. Chris Dunphy over at the [Mobile Internet Resource Center](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/?ref=seabits.com) mentioned that he had seen this happen with his Garmin radar. I tried it with Furuno & Raymarine and have been able to reproduce it as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/D882151C-50B2-4D2A-AAF2-0839F2AB196A_1_105_c.jpeg) Where my dish is mounted now is fine as far as I have been able to determine through testing and usage. To reproduce the issue, I put the dish on its standard mounting legs and placed the entire setup right on the arch. That meant that part of the dish was on the same plane as the radar, and some stuck up from it. That would cause the dish to shut down every time the radar was transmitting. Some other folks I talked to who have Starlink have said they had similar issues, and simply turn it off while underway or running radar, which is an option. I also will use radar at anchor sometimes during bad weather to ensure other boats and things aren't moving, so I would really rather that Starlink worked all the time regardless of radar emissions. However, given that I now stow Starlink when underway, it might not be that big of a deal. I would highly recommend anyone considering installing to test with and without the radar transmitting before choosing an installation location. Some of the best spots for a satellite dish are up near where our radars are mounted... ## Dishy v2 & Ethernet Dishy v1 had a WiFi router and a power brick that provided power to both the router and the dish. The power brick used ethernet ports for connecting to things, and if you simply disconnected the router, you could plug the dish and power brick directly into a router of your choice, which made it really nice to integrate with solutions like a Peplink router with a WAN port. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/IMG_6276.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/IMG_6279.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/IMG_6278.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/IMG_6277.jpeg) Dishy v2 does not have an ethernet port by default, and you have to use the router to power it. There is an optional accessory that you can buy which gives you an ethernet port, which I did, and is the recommended way to integrate it with a 3rd party router, but you still have to run the main router base unit. It also performs a lot better having it directly wired rather than relying on connecting to it via WiFi from another router. There is an option in Settings titled "Bypass Starlink WiFi router" which essentially kills off the WiFi part of the router, and has some big scary warnings when you choose it. I definitely recommend choosing this after getting the ethernet port all setup so that you don't have yet another WiFi network cluttering the airwaves. Keep in mind, as the screen says, that to get the WiFi network back, you'll have to do a factory reset. ## Using Starlink I didn't have a great experience using version 1 of the Starlink dish while at anchor or underway. I also had some difficulties in a marina, but was able to work around that by mounting it as high as possible. It's also been over a year since that version, and tons of improvements have occurred with Starlink's service, firmware, and satellites. I believe those improvements plus the better antenna setup in the version 2 dish have contributed to a much more usable solution. ### At a Dock Starlink has become my primary connectivity when I am at a dock. It used to be whatever local WiFi I could get connected to (XFINITY at most places) or a fallback to cellular, but I haven't needed either of those for months now with Starlink. There are still times every few minutes to once an hour where Starlink blips because a seagull is on it, a sailboat mast is obscuring the train of satellites, or just because, so having cellular as a backup in Priority 2 within my Peplink router is essential. For critical work video calls, I'll drag one or more cellular connections up into Priority 1 with Starlink just in case so that I know I will always be connected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/IMG_6399-1.jpeg) Kaos docked at Elliott Bay Marina with Starlink way up top What has really helped is the ability to use the internet without having to worry about data caps or plan overages. I now do Windows updates on all of the navigation PCs, download new charts, and watch movies and TV via streaming platforms - all high bandwidth, data intensive stuff that I would either avoid, or do carefully to not impact my cellular data availability. With Starlink, I don't worry about that as much anymore. ### At Anchor At anchor is not as good as at the dock, but not by much. On a recent trip to Liberty Bay, near Poulsbo, WA, we used Starlink for 3 days at anchor. Over that time period, according to my monitoring system, Starlink disconnected about 3-5 times per hour depending on how much we moved. Most of the disconnections were a handful of seconds, and some were a minute or two. Again, having cellular to backfill those times makes it a wonderful solution at anchor. The rolling motion from waves didn't seem to affect it much at all - the primary reason for any issues was the boat rotating at anchor a lot, primarily due to wind, and causing the dishy to have to figure out where to point. I watched the dishy while we moved a bunch (not the most exciting thing to do) and didn't see it change its orientation that much, which supports the various discussions around the way the tech works with the [phased array antenna](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phased%5Farray?ref=seabits.com). ### Underway As you would probably expect, using Starlink while underway is not as good as any of the other modes. When going in a straight line, things are fine, even with a little autopilot or current wander. Making turns or larger course corrections definitely causes more outages. As an example, on an hour long trip from Seattle to nearby Bainbridge Island, I made some decent course changes and turns, and my monitoring system recorded 16 outages, some lasting more than a minute, on the whole trip. As a result, I will probably not use Starlink underway unless I am on a long trip with relatively straight courses. With the Signal K plugin that stows it while underway, for now, I won't be using it until I arrive at my anchorage. ## How to get Starlink The best way to get Starlink is to find a "cell" or area where there is no waitlist. There is a [map on Starlink's site](https://www.starlink.com/map?ref=seabits.com) that can be useful for this. There are also a lot of tips and tricks in some of the "More Reading" links below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/04/image-1.png) Starlink availability map The biggest changes recently are the ability to have a service address that is different than your shipping address, and the fact that the service address doesn't really matter for any part of the setup or use of the product. This has allowed folks to place an order and have a unit shipped within days, bypassing the long wait times that some areas are experiencing. ## Conclusion This version of Starlink is not marine grade or mobility ready, and there are some quirks. It can work very well in many conditions, but if you expect the same level of fit and finish that you can get from a KVH or Intellian satellite dome, you'll want to wait. It also requires a decent amount of AC power and requires you use their router. If the system you have now works great, it might be a better to wait a year and see what they might come out with that will work even better on a boat. But if you need better connectivity at your dock or while at anchor, have limited data plans and do lots of streaming or high bandwidth tasks, then Starlink could be a lifesaver. Even with radar interference and mobility warranty issues, Starlink has become a very useful tool in staying connected while on the water. I now rely on Starlink almost exclusively while at a dock, and a lot of the time at anchor. I still use cellular while underway, and as a secondary connection method when Starlink stops working, or for critical meetings. 📣 Please post your experience with Starlink below in our discussions area so that others can learn from what has worked / not worked for you! ## More Reading Below are some great articles and resources to help you understand more about Starlink on boats. [Starlink Satellite Internet for Mobile RV and Boat UseStarlink is a game changing internet option for RVer and boaters. How to get Starlink for RV use and how to use it while being mobile.![](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/cropped-MIRC_Favicon-270x270.png)Mobile Internet Resource CenterDan Heming![](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/starlink-satellite-internet-for-rv-and-boat-mobile.png)](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/guides/starlink-rv-boat/?ref=seabits.com) This is an extremely detailed article on everything you could want to know about Starlink on a boat. [Starlink On Boats | FacebookSpaceX Starlink satellite Internet service will be a game changer for those crossing oceans - and experiencing life aboard boats of all sizes. This group is for the discussion of the successes and...![](https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/rsrc.php/yD/r/d4ZIVX-5C-b.ico)Facebook Groepen![](https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/lookaside/crawler/media/?media_id=851277972090876)](https://www.facebook.com/groups/starlinkonboats) The Facebook group **Starlink On Boats** has been great to see how others are mounting their dishy, where you can get service, and other tips and tricks. ### Peplink Maritime Antennas URL: https://seabits.com/peplink-maritime-antennas/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:39:26.000Z Peplink came out with the Maritime series of antennas in the tail end of 2021\. This was the first real competition that Poynting, my favorite antenna vendor for a number of years, has had in this space, and I was eager to get them up and running. ## The Lineup In the Maritime lineup, we have two different models to choose from: - [Maritime 20G](https://onboardwireless.com/peplink-maritime-20g-antenna.html?Affid-1&ref=seabits.com) \- a 2x2 MIMO antenna with GPS ([data sheet](https://download.peplink.com/resources/pepwave%5Fmaritime%5Fantenna%5F20G%5Fdatasheet.pdf?ref=seabits.com)) - [Maritime 40G](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Maritime-40G-Antenna%5Fp%5F25.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) \- a 4x4 MIMO antenna with GPS ([data sheet](https://download.peplink.com/resources/pepwave%5Fmaritime%5Fantenna%5F40G%5Fdatasheet.pdf?ref=seabits.com)) ## In the Box ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/Maritime-20g-box.jpeg) Peplink Maritime 20G box Both antennas come with: - Marine mount base & seal - Entrance hole and plug for side cable entry - L-bracket with hardware to mount on a vertical surface - Pole mount hardware ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/Maritime-20g-box-contents.jpeg) Maritime 20G box contents Interestingly, the 40G comes with the rather expensive $99 Peplink marine stainless steel mounting base, but the 20G does not. It would be nice to see that for both antennas.... ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/Pole-mounting.jpeg) Pole mounting hardware - rarely use this stuff... ## Specifications ### Maritime 20G ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/20g-datasheet.png) ### Maritime 40G ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/40g-datasheet.png) Both antennas cover a wide range of frequencies making them ideal for 4G LTE, 5G and WiFi uses. In particular, I was impressed with the lower frequency gain claims particularly in the 617-960MHz range, as this has been an area that other antenna manufacturers have struggled with. It's also interesting to note that the 20G has much better gain numbers of 5.4dBi in that range over the 40G's 3.8dBi. There are other variances as well, but the rest are much smaller. In terms of general specifications, the Maritime series looks extremely good on paper. ## Physical The antenna is well built and feels hefty in the hand. The entire setup is similar to the Poynting OMNI series of antennas I've reviewed before, specifically around it being purpose designed for the marine world, which is excellent. This includes a removable base that can be screwed on to a standard 1-1/4" marine mount with options to pass the cables through the mount, or out through a hole in the base of the antenna mount. This saves having to deal with twisting cables or other machinations that always compromise the quality of the install. It should be mentioned that the Maritime 40G antenna is a big, hefty antenna. It is by far the biggest cellular antenna I've ever seen. It's overall length is 35" which is 6" longer than the comparable Poynting OMNI-414 at 29". However, it feels quite a bit heavier (Peplink does not publish a weight) and it is quite a bit wider than other antennas a 3.78". Antenna size usually helps with performance, but just be aware that the Maritime 40G is bigger than what you might have seen before, and will require a proper mounting setup. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/20g-bottom.jpeg) Bottom of 20G antenna The antenna cables come out of the bottom of the unit and are about 6 feet in length. Both the 20G and 40G have both cellular antenna leads and a single GPS antenna lead. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/20g-cabling.jpeg) The connectors and cabling feel well built and are clearly labeled with nice shrink wrap coverings that survive being pulled through conduit and other places. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/installed-20g-r.jpeg) Peplink Maritime 20G mounted on the test bed The antenna isn't circular - it is sort of [cricket bat](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cricket%5Fbat?ref=seabits.com) shaped and has some bevels and angles. It is quite a bit thicker around than a Poynting OMNI-series as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/Base-with-seal.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/base-with-seal-on.jpeg) Maritime mounting base The mounting base is well thought out and includes a rubber weather seal, cable pass through hole, and a set screw! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/Base-set-screw.jpeg) Maritime base with set screw hole The set screw is super nice so that you can orient the entire antenna the way you want without having to use a jam nut (another purchase) from somewhere else, or just be stuck with the antenna facing some random direction. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/Base-with-plug.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/plug.jpeg) Cable plug a disappointment The biggest disappointment is the plug for the cable pass through. If I am using a standard 1-1/4 marine mount, like you see above, I don't want this hole to be open or exposed. The way this was solved for the Maritime series was a very cheap, fiddly plastic plug that does not provide a weather tight seal, and is difficult to even get into the hole. After all of the other weatherproofing put into this antenna, this is a clear miss in the design department. Using some sort of sealant is an option, but a bit of a mess will likely result. ## Performance & Usage I've been using both antennas for a number of months now with CAT-18 and 5G modems from multiple manufacturers. In addition, I've used the 20G as a WiFi as WAN antenna connected to Peplink routers. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/Peplink-dashboard.png) In general I have been very pleased with the overall performance. In metro areas where the signal is strong, I have seen excellent performance and good signal strength. In remote areas with known challenges, I've seen good performance as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/Low-band-performance.png) Peplink Maritime 40G antenna connected to T-Mobile 5G The lower band performance has been very good specifically in the 617-960MHz range. This is where the all-important Band 71 lives which is useful mostly for T-Mobile. Lower frequencies with longer wavelengths travel farther, and this means more coverage further away in isolated areas, which is perfect for the boat. 5G performance has also been very good in all of my testing with the Maritime antennas pulling in a signal in many places where I hadn't had 5G before. Compared to the [Peplink Mobility 42G](https://seabits.com/new-peplink-antenna-testing/), the 20G and 40G do much better with lower signal areas, which I would expect given the sheer size difference. The 42G has better gain numbers for some frequencies on paper, but the overall size, design, and radiation pattern of the Maritime series will be better for a boat setup because of the constant movement and tendency to be further away from towers. [New Peplink antenna testingThere have been a lot of new cellular antennas that have come out in the last few months from Peplink. I’ve been testing some of them for a while, and have some interesting findings.![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Peplink-Maritime-20G-testbed.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/new-peplink-antenna-testing/) I also used the Peplink Maritime 20G as a WiFi as WAN antenna connected to various Peplink devices. In particular, I wanted to see how it did compared to the venerable [Poynting OMNI-496](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-496-wifi/) which I've recommended for a number of years. The OMNI-496 is a single element antenna, whereas the Maritime 20G is a 2x2 or dual element antenna, so it's not an exact 1:1 comparison. In my testing, I've seen great performance from the Maritime 20G as a WiFi as WAN antenna - very similar to the OMNI-496\. You will need some RP-SMA adapters if you decide to use the 20G with WiFi ports on a router. ## Competition Poynting is the obvious major competitor to these antennas, and while they have several offerings that are new, there are still some gaps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/all-antennas-wide.jpeg) From left to right - Poynting OMNI-414, Peplink Maritime 20G, Peplink Maritime 40G The Maritime 40G has a good competitor in the [Poynting OMNI-414](https://onboardwireless.com/Poynting-OMNI-414-MIMO-4x4-LTE5G-Antenna%5Fp%5F99.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) which I am also testing. The major differences are that the Poynting does not cover as many frequencies as the Maritime 40G, is quite a bit smaller (not a bad thing!), and is white in color instead of cream. This means for a 5G + WiFi as WAN system you'd need different antennas specifically for WiFi. I do like the smaller form factor of the Poynting, and I prefer the white color over the Peplink cream color. The lack of some frequencies or bands with the Poynting antennas will be an area of focus in my testing as well. In my initial testing of the Poynting OMNI-414 versus the Peplink Maritime 40G, I see very similar results in many areas. I will still reserve my opinion on which one is ultimately the best choice until I have a bit more time with the OMNI-414. ## Wrap Up If you're looking for a high quality marine-grade cellular or WiFi antenna, the Peplink Maritime series definitely fits that bill. Quality mounting options, excellent performance, and lots of flexibility with the number of connections make it an easy antenna to pair with a good router. ### Pros - Excellent marine antenna features - Well built hardware, cabling, etc. - Performs extremely well with 4G LTE and 5G - Can be used for WiFi or cellular ### Cons - The 40G is enormous - this may be a concern for mounting, windage, and space. - The 40G comes with a 1-1/4" mount, the 20G does not - The color is off-white which doesn't match most boats - Weatherproofing for cable pass through is not as waterproof as I'd like --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 21 comments Roger Clapp@one2go March 23, 2022 Thanks for another great detailed review/description of these LTE/5G/WiFi MIMO omni antennas. I’m curious if you ever have use cases for WiFI-only MIMO antennas? If so, have you ever looked at these? [https://www.l-com.com/wireless-antenna-24-5-ghz-11-dbi-dual-frequency-dual-polarized-omni-antenna](https://www.l-com.com/wireless-antenna-24-5-ghz-11-dbi-dual-frequency-dual-polarized-omni-antenna?ref=seabits.com) [l-com.com](https://www.l-com.com/Images/Downloadables/Datasheets/ds%5FHG2458-11DPU.pdf?ref=seabits.com) ### [ds\_HG2458-11DPU.pdf](https://www.l-com.com/Images/Downloadables/Datasheets/ds%5FHG2458-11DPU.pdf?ref=seabits.com) 1003.82 KB Regards. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 March 23, 2022 Not really in the boating world. For installations and systems I’ve worked on for marinas or other land-based setups, I’ve used antennas from a number of vendors including Ubiquiti/UniFi and others that are dual or single frequencies and other similar configs to the one you linked. Carol@Carol April 12, 2022 I’m considering adding a 40G for cellular and a 20G for wifi-as-WAN. I’ve noticed you have yours mounted on the radar arch. Mine will likely be ahead of the radar, on either side of the flybridge Bimini. Any concerns with these antennas wrt placement ahead of the radar dome? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 April 13, 2022 As long as they’re not super close to the radar, it shouldn’t be that big of an issue. The other thing I always think about is that while underway, you might not be getting the best signal anyhow because you’re moving. If the radar degrades it a bit more, that’s probably not the end of the world, but they shouldn’t conflict too much. Brandon@YeahGuuy May 07, 2022 Hi Steve, Love this review and the review you did on the Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G (which we have bought). We own a 56 Catamaran and looking to max out the range our 80’ mast can offer us. The only thing at the top now is our VHF/AIS antenna (which often gets AIS targets on our Vesper Cortex at 40 miles). Anyhow my question is will it be worth it to add 100’ of cable to get the 40g to the top of the mast vs the loss of that run? We could instead mount it on our spreaders at 60, 40, or 20’ above our waterline as well (but assume that would also bring in pretty good interference from our mast too). We’re using Starlink now as well with great success, and getting ready to move it over to 12v power and take out the included router… but we have a feeling it will be a long time before Starlink cuts a deal in the Bahamas, and we need to have a working alternative ready at all times. Cheers, Brandon Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 May 10, 2022 I never exceed 30 feet with cellular cable because of the loss associated with it. If you look at the antenna performance information, you’ll see only 1-2dB in some frequency ranges, and anything longer than 30 feet would eat into that. If you have connectors or joints/splices, those affect things even more. Based on the length you’re talking about, you’d need extremely thick cabling, and even then, I think you’d still negate most of the benefits by the length of the cable. I’d stick with something that is less than 30’ of overall cable. Sergei\_Prutkin@Sergei\_Prutkin October 21, 2022 Hello Steve. Thank you for another great post! I have a slightly different question and wonder if you could help. We are a live-a-board couple on our 53 foot sailboat and currently in Gibraltar and slowly sailing south to Canaries with intention to cross this year. Do you know of any Maritiime antennas that would work with 4G/5G and Iridium GO? It seems like the impedance and frequencies are compatible, however there are other antennas characteristics that are not clear to me and might be very different. We use Peplink MAX BR1 MK2(all based on your wonderful reviews) with Wilson 4G antenna with a very quality good cable installed on our first spreaders(about 12 meters up from Peplink). We would only use Iridium GO while doing ocean crossing. I would like to use our existing or newer and better 4G/5G antenna for IRIDIUM GO if possible.This would prevent me from installing yet another antenna and pulling another cable. Thank you! Serge Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #9 October 25, 2022 That’s an interesting idea - I’ve never tested this, but if things overlap, you could potentially do this. I know the newer Maritime Series of antennas from Peplink have a pretty wide support of bands, as do some of the newer ones from Poynting. Might be worth checking out… Sergei\_Prutkin@Sergei\_Prutkin October 26, 2022 Thanks, Steve. I have ordered a custom pigtail cable from a UK based RF shop with TS9 and SMA connectors, so I can connect my existing antenna cable to Iridium GO. I will let you know if it works. garybird@garybird January 13, 2023 First, thanks for sharing these great blogs. As an avid boater and communications expert “wanna be”, I found your articles outstanding. Have you had a chance to look at the new HD1 Dome Pro (5G)? I’d be curious to get your thoughts on the pros and cons of using it as an alternative to the Maritime 40G + MAX BR1 Pro setup. I have a catamaran being built and the best antenna location is likely on the spreader, halfway up the mast, but about 35-40 ft away from the router location in the cabin. So the cable length concerns me and the HD1 Dome Pro would address that. And I wouldn’t need cable extensions that would require connections in the mast. But I am worried about losing range with the dome setup. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 January 17, 2023 Hi there, I did a review of the [Peplink MAX HD1 Dome](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/) a couple of years ago, and I used the domes (2x) as my primary connectivity for a number of years. The HD1 Dome Pro has the newer 5G modem and WiFi in it as well, which was a feature request I asked for (among other folks) several years ago. I’ve tested the HD1 Dome Pro and it works very similar to the original domes. The 5G radio works well, and the WiFi radio is good too. Routers with appropriate cables combined with the [Peplink Maritime Antennas](https://seabits.com/peplink-maritime-antennas/) will perform a bit better in low signal areas because of the size of the antennas, but it’s a pretty small difference in most folks use cases. If your only location for antennas is 35-40 feet away from a router, then the dome is the best choice. garybird@garybird January 17, 2023 Thanks Steve. That was my assessment also. The losses associated a 40+ with a couple of connectors in between would be pretty significant. And there’s no room in the conduits for LMR 400 cable. HD1 Dome Pro it is! I did contact Peplink and they recommended the same. JeffR@JeffR January 20, 2023 Hi Steve, I purchased a Pepwave 40G Maritime Antenna and paired it with a Pepwave MAX BR1 Pro router.My question is about orientation of the antenna. The antenna is approx. 2.75 inches thick and 3.75 inches wide. Should it be installed with the thin edge facing forward with the boat, which would be a more aerodynamical install (not that it matters, my boat only cruises at 7 knots)? Or should it be installed with the wide edge facing forward? Will the orientation affect the reception quality? Thanks, Jeff Steve Mitchell@steve January 20, 2023 Hi Jeff, Since your boat will constantly change direction and orientation, it won’t really matter which way it faces for performance reasons. Even with a 7 knot boat, facing the thin edge forwards might still be desirable if you’re headed into a strong wind, I suppose, but that’s about all I could come up with You could have it oriented any way you want and it shouldn’t matter. I know a lot of folks with multi-antenna setups (customers and my own install!) who orient them all the same way for looks. JeffR@JeffR January 20, 2023 Thanks for your input Steve. Aerodynamic install it is. Don’t want to slow down my speed demon! wkearney99@wkearney99 May 08, 2023 Any idea if the 40G would work on a side-mounted base? Like the kind Shakespeare makes for VHF and other whip antenna styles? Like their 4187 ratchet mount. I’m likewise wondering if the cut-out through that base is going to provide enough room for the cabling from the 40G. 4187 on this page: [Antenna Mounts – Shakespeare Marine](https://shakespeare-marine.com/product/antenna-mounts/?ref=seabits.com) My thought is side-mount it on the flybridge of my EB47, with the ratchet allowing fold-down during winter storage. I have my existing VHF & AIS antennas on those mounts, both with some 3/4" Starboard between them and the fiberglass. I’d prefer to avoid having to stack a bunch of material to make it work, if just for the sake of not being ugly. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #18 May 08, 2023 I think the mount could hold the antenna weight if that is one of the questions. It would depend on how it is backed and mounted. The hole for the wires might be an issue - the 40G has a lot of them. I usually cut off the GPS wire just because I never use it and it gets in the way, but even that might not help here. I use bulkhead mounts from Morad for my two 40Gs and have no issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/7ccdc33af9bd2abc2e98cc38dcb42d5530d31e16.png) [Morad Antenna](https://www.morad.com/collections/mounts/products/m600-laydown-bulkhead-mounts?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/73c7d556552d185e469b8783e53fe58a7b5fb36f.jpeg) ### [M600 - 1 inch diameter Laydown Bulkhead Mounts (pair)](https://www.morad.com/collections/mounts/products/m600-laydown-bulkhead-mounts?ref=seabits.com) Laydown mounts. Top mount latch swings to allow stanchion to be removed from mount, while bottom mount swivels allowing antenna to be laid down. Comes in a pair. Made entirely in the USA. Price: USD 96.00 Paired with their piping, there is enough room for two of the wires to go on either side of the bolt that runs through the pipe, and it allows me the ability to lay the antennas down and access them for maintenance. wkearney99@wkearney99↩ #19 May 08, 2023 A product I hadn’t thought about was on Morad’s website, the stanchion adapter with a cut-out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/7ccdc33af9bd2abc2e98cc38dcb42d5530d31e16.png) [Morad Antenna](https://www.morad.com/collections/accessories-parts/products/m92-stanchion-thread-adapter?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/13c1e45170e714e7d30d75869fd8a7c2c691c8db.jpeg) ### [M92 - Stanchion/Thread Adapter](https://www.morad.com/collections/accessories-parts/products/m92-stanchion-thread-adapter?ref=seabits.com) GPS adapter, 4-1/2 inch long, 1 inch x 14 threaded stud with through-hole, accepts 1 inch diameter stanchion. Made entirely in the USA. Price: USD 44.00 That’d allow bringing the cables out while still using a ratcheting mount. Though the more you add to the length of something, the more pendulum stress… I was assuming I’d be using a backing plate to help handle the weight/loads of the antenna on it. How well the mount itself handles the loads… is an interesting question. I’m inclined toward the ratcheting style to allow all positions to be locked. As in, by the folks that’re doing the winterizing. Loosen, turn, tighten… less possibility for anything to move around or parts to get lost. As this is only the outside edge of the flybridge I could definitely imagine a retaining clip going ‘bloop’ overboard. Though I definitely see the merit to using a pole-adapter arrangement like the M600\. Thanks for the ideas. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #20 May 08, 2023 Ah yes, those thread adapters are awesome. I’ve used them for customer installs as well as on my own boats. They’re great for the cellular antenna cables and amounts of them. Good luck! wkearney99@wkearney99↩ #21 May 09, 2023 I neglected to realize there’s already a knock-out hole in the bottom of the mount that comes with the 40G. No need to go through the ratchet mount split-thread part. Funny what happens when you actually READ the datasheets… [https://download.peplink.com/resources/pepwave\_maritime\_antenna\_40G\_datasheet.pdf](https://download.peplink.com/resources/pepwave%5Fmaritime%5Fantenna%5F40G%5Fdatasheet.pdf?ref=seabits.com) Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #22 May 10, 2023 LOL, and I knew that as well and didn’t even mention it. Oops! ### Kaos initial internet setup URL: https://seabits.com/kaos-initial-internet-setup/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:13:14.000Z --- I've had Kaos for almost 2 months now, and have developed my initial internet setup. This is similar to posts I've done for previous years and boats, and is just a point in time - I'm always constantly tweaking my setup and making modifications to get slightly better performance and range. 💲 I buy almost all of the products I test and use, which can be expensive! To help pay for some of this, I have partnered with Onboard Wireless and you will find links to products on their site from this article. Using those links gives me credit for your purchase, if you make one, and I am paid a small amount as a result. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/Kaos-Internet-2022.png) Kaos internet setup ## Webinar I participated in a webinar with Peplink and Doug Miller from Onboard Wireless where we discussed maritime connectivity, and I touched on this setup a little bit as well. You can find a recording of this below. ## Core Router ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/Peplink-MBX-Mini.png) Peplink MBX Mini 5G I've gone with the [Peplink MBX Mini 5G](https://onboardwireless.com/peplink-mbx-mini-5g-router.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) as my main core router. It has 2x 5G modems, 4x WiFi antennas / 2x WiFi radio blocks, 2x USB ports, 2x WAN ports, 4x PoE LAN ports, multiple power options and 4 SIM slots. It has a very powerful CPU which allows for multiple WAN / internet sources to operate at their full potential, plus using features like SpeedFusion Cloud. Previous to this system, I was using a Peplink MAX HD4 MBX which is the same general platform line, but with 4x modems. This was overkill for my setup, and only had CAT-18 modems. The MBX Mini is a better size for my situation, both physically, in terms of power usage, and for the number of ports and connections it has, plus it has newer 5G modems. I'm running the router off of 12 volt DC power as I am not using the built in PoE ports, and wanted to avoid having to provide 54 volts via the included AC power brick, or using a buck converter. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/MBX-Mini-Dashboard-1.png) The main motivation for using this router is the number of WAN or internet sources I can have. You can see above I am leveraging the two built-in 5G radios to grab connections from cellular providers as well as a USB connected 5G MAX Adapter - more on that below. This allows me to have three cellular connections that use outdoor marine-grade antennas for maximum performance. I also have two CAT-18 domes connected to the WAN ports, plus I am using both WiFi radios to remotely grab WiFi signals. This gives me 3 native cellular connections, 2 WAN cellular connections, and 2 WiFi as WAN connections for a total of 7 different sources of internet. I should never be disconnected! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/IMG_5756.jpeg) Back of MBX Mini showing power and antenna connectors The one drawback with the router is the antenna connectors which are the newer QMA-style that I've mentioned in previous articles. This means you will need a QMA to RP-SMA adapter (or in this case 8x of them) for most antennas. While I like the QMA adapter for how easy it is to connect, I'd like to see more antenna manufacturers supply native QMA ends so that we don't have to buy adapters, and add both cost and signal loss. This is not an inexpensive router, it must be pointed out, but you get what you pay for. Everything has gotten more expensive with the supply chain challenges specifically around technology and the chips and components that make them, and that affects Peplink as well. If you compare this to another favorite of mine, the [MAX BR1 Pro 5G](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-br1-pro-5g-first-impressions/), which is about $1500, you might think this would be 2x the price because of the 2x 5G modems, but you need to factor in all of the other WAN and LAN ports, the dual WiFi radios, PoE power, USB ports that can be additional modems, and the much faster and more capable CPU. Without quoting prices, which Peplink frowns on for their higher end products, you can expect this to be 4x the BR1 Pro 5G price. Before you complain about how expensive it is, think about how much money you spend on chart plotters, bottom paint, your power system, or engine service. Is the internet on the top 5 list of important things on your boat? Do you need 24x7 always on connectivity? Then this is likely a good choice for you. Yes, you could buy a $100 router off of Amazon, combine it with a bunch of other $100-200 devices, and end up with some of the features that this product has, but not all. And it would be very difficult to manage, isn't built for being on a boat, etc. You get what you pay for, and 5G + redundancy + top end solutions aren't inexpensive. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/TMOBest.png) T-Mobile 5G from Elliott Bay Marina My home marina, Elliott Bay Marina, is notorious for having really poor connectivity for just about everything. It's a great place to test all three US providers as there are challenging conditions, long distances to towers, and performance issues as a result. I've been very impressed with the MBX Mini's ability to pull in 5G signals with better levels than even the BR1 Pro 5G, and the overall performance. Above you can see a speed test using T-Mobile 5G at Elliott Bay Marina, and it's excellent performance. I've seen faster download speeds out of the [Netgear Nighthawk 5G](https://seabits.com/netgear-nighthawk-5g/), but only in very specific conditions, not repeatable over and over, and never this sort of upload performance, which speaks to using high quality outdoor, large antennas. Upload performance is critical for remote working given the amount of virtual meetings via Zoom and Teams we do nowadays, and all of the other data you're generating while working. I'm very pleased with the overall performance of the MBX Mini 5G - top end cellular speeds, able to pull in both cellular and WiFi signals well, snappy CPU to keep everything working very fast including SpeedFusion Cloud, and lots of ports and connectivity for all of the things I have running through it. ## MAX Adapter 5G ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/IMG_3352.jpeg) The MAX Adapter 5G is an odd product to include in my setup at first glance, but the MBX Mini allows you to connect USB devices for additional connectivity. This means you can expand to 4x 5G radios (there are 2 USB ports on the MBX Mini) relatively inexpensively by adding the MAX Adapter 5G and connecting it to a good outdoor antenna. Unfortunately you cannot use the SIM injector or remote SIM features with this product, which means putting a SIM directly into a little fiddly tray on the side of the thing. Since I swap SIMs around a lot for testing, this is somewhat limiting. The bigger issue is the lack of information or control when using the adapter with a router. There's very little detail about the type of connection, bands, and signal levels which is important to know not just when testing, but in daily use. You can't change any settings, lock to specific bands, or anything else. I've asked Peplink if they intend on changing this, and have not gotten definitive information, but I hope it is something they consider. I've also not had great performance out of this product in general, so while I am using it, I wouldn't recommend it right now. ## Domes ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/image-2.png) Peplink MAX HD1 CAT-18 dome I have been a fan of the [Peplink MAX HD1 CAT-18](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/) dome for quite a while, and while they aren't 5G, they still perform very well because there is little to no loss between the modem and the antenna given it's all inside the dome, mounted outside. I have two of them mounted on the arch and connected to the MBX Mini WAN ports for additional sources of cellular connectivity. ## SIM Injector ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/IMG_7326.jpeg) In order to provide the maximum flexibility with using SIM cards and plans on all of these devices, I am using a SIM injector on the LAN network, connected to the switch in my pilot house so I can swap things around if needed without going to the router. I use a special feature to pass the SIM injector traffic through the router and out to the HD1 domes so they can take advantage of it as well. This means I can pick which SIM is being used by what device very easily, all except the MAX Adapter 5G. This device is highly recommended if you have an HD1 or HD2 dome, and I had one as a result of that purchase a year or two ago. ## Antennas At this point in time, I have the following antennas: - 2x [Peplink Maritime 40G](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Maritime-40G-Antenna%5Fp%5F25.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) 4x4 MIMO - 1x [Poynting OMNI-414](https://onboardwireless.com/Poynting-OMNI-414-MIMO-4x4-LTE5G-Antenna%5Fp%5F99.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) 4x4 MIMO - 2x [Peplink Maritime 20G](https://onboardwireless.com/peplink-maritime-20g-antenna.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) 2x2 MIMO ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/IMG_4422.jpeg) Peplink Maritime 20G antenna The Peplink Maritime 20G and 40G are some of my most recent favorite antennas. I'm using both of those in this setup and have been very pleased with the performance. I have an article coming out on both the 20G and 40G details soon. I also have the new [Poynting OMNI-414](https://poynting.tech/antennas/omni-414/?ref=seabits.com) which is comparable to the Peplink Maritime 40G in terms of 4x4 LTE and frequency coverage. I've not had it very long, and am still doing some testing, so I can't say whether the OMNI-414 or the Maritime 40G is better/worse. All of these antennas are up on the arch and as close as possible to the router. I did have to extend the existing 6' cables to get things where I wanted on and around my arch, but nothing more than about 20 feet total length. I always try to keep it below that, and with high quality cabling. ## WiFi as WAN This is a feature that a lot of people overlook with Peplink, and I highly recommend you consider it for any deployment. It allows the router to connect to a remote WiFi network and use that as an internet source. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/WiFi-as-WAN-settings.png) For almost any deployment, even one with a BR1 Pro 5G or MAX Transit, I prefer **not** to use the built in access point within the router. Instead, put the router close to the antennas, and add an access point (see below) that can provide local WiFi closer to where the people are in the boat. This also offloads that work from the router, which in the case of the older MAX Transit line, is already quite busy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/IMG_5755.jpeg) For the MBX Mini, I am using both WiFi 1 and WiFi 2 for WiFi as WAN, with them connected to Maritime 20G antennas. This means I can actually have redundant WiFi as WAN connections while at a marina or near a WiFi source, even if it is to the same source, and not have to burn cellular data capacity. I've used this feature for many years, and have been very happy with it. The MBX Mini allows you to use both radios for this, but some of the other Peplink products are less clear. The MAX BR1 Pro 5G allows you to use both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz radios separately for WiFi as WAN, while some of the MAX Transit product lines only allow one connection. I've not been able to figure out the exact reason behind some of the restrictions, but if you are at a marina or area with WiFi for any length of time, investing in WiFi as WAN is critical. ## Local WiFi As I mentioned above, having separate access points from the main router is a good design principle for a high end system. I'm using 2x [Peplink AP One AX](https://onboardwireless.com/pepwave-ap-one-ax.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) units being powered by the SD Switch Rugged (see below) and placed in two different spots around the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/AP-One-AX.jpeg) Peplink AP One AX access point For years I've used the [AP One Rugged](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-AP-One-Rugged-Wireless-Access-Point-2022-model%5Fp%5F121.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) access point, and still prefer it for a lot of installations, but it is quite old in terms of the WiFi radios and support. So far I have been happy with the AP One AX in terms of speed and supporting WiFi 6\. I use the AP functionality in the MBX Mini to manage them which makes it nice to have everything in one place. I have had some random issues with super-latency sensitive music equipment and the AP One AX versus the Rugged or even UniFi equipment, and continue to look into that issue. It could just be WiFi 6 nonsense, which has caused problems for some older equipment, or it could be Peplink specific. More testing is needed. ## Switching I'm using a [Peplink SD Switch Rugged 16](https://www.peplink.com/products/sd-switch-series-16-rugged/?ref=seabits.com) which has a couple of nice features. It can provide 8 ports of PoE power to various devices, like my access points, and it also has pass-through ports that still work even if the switch is down or has no power, which can be useful in the event of a failure. I had purchased this unit for another project that fell through, so I kept it and ended up using it aboard Kaos. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/Peplink-SD-Switch-Rugged-16.png) It has some limitations compared to the many other switches I've used through the years. It's feature set is pretty good, but is still missing the odd feature here and there, and is not that easy to use. As an example, you can't administer it via any of the normal ports initially - you have to connect to a special port, and then set it up to use one of the other ports for administration. Some of this is similar to complex enterprise switches, which is fine, but this doesn't really qualify as that. The biggest challenge is the price, which is several times more than comparable offerings, and from companies who have much higher track records. It also tends to use more power than other products. We'll see if this stays aboard longer term. The primary reason I used it was for the PoE power which I need for my 2x access points, cameras, and a few other things. I had been using TRENDnet industrial switches for years, but their PoE offerings have a lot of limitations in terms of number of ports and configurations. ## Cost & Wrap-up One of the top questions I get is the overall cost for some of my systems, and while it is easy to add it all up, I'm not a 100% typical user. A lot of this equipment I purchased over multiple years while testing things, and I am pushing the boundaries of the whole platform / system in this particular case. All told, this entire set of equipment is around $15,000. For a more typical deployment, you might have the following: - Peplink MBX Mini 5G router - 2x Peplink Maritime 40G antennas for the 5G radios in the MBX Mini - 1x Peplink Maritime 20G antenna for WiFi as WAN - 1x Peplink AP One AX access point This would run about $8000 and provide a very robust setup with a lot of redundancy, connectivity and power. In the near future I plan on adding some satellite capabilities and will likely displace one of the CAT-18 HD1 domes in place of that. I also hope to settle on a more permanent switching and access point solution depending on additional testing. And I am also interested in a showdown between the Poynting OMNI-414 and Peplink Maritime 40G antennas to see which one is better. I'm pretty happy with the system so far, and while there are some drawbacks, it is an extremely powerful, capable setup that will allow me to remotely work pretty much anywhere I cruise. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 6 comments Kimi\_Merroll@Kimi\_Merroll February 23, 2022 Awesome write up Steve. Super impressive setup, but have to cringe at the $7k router. I’m using the single modem BR1 Pro ($1500) with a 40G antenna ($600) and getting very good 5G connection and network throughput numbers on par with your speed measures. Not saying the MBX Mini isn’t totally awesome, but definitely on the “Price is no object” scale. Thanks again - K. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 February 23, 2022 The BR1 Pro 5G is an excellent router, but I wanted dual 5G radios at least, and two WAN ports, one for a dome, and one for a future satellite system. Unfortunately there are no other solutions than to jump right to the MBX Mini right now… David\_Bradsher@David\_Bradsher↩ #4 February 24, 2022 Steve, How would you change this setup, if at all, for a sailboat? Thanks, David James\_Bennett@James\_Bennett February 24, 2022 Sigh - I registered but then couldn’t’ make the webinar (gasp, work). Any chance there is a recording? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 February 24, 2022 David\_Bradsher: > How would you change this setup, if at all, for a sailboat? It would really depend on the size of the sailboat and space. In my setup, I have 5 antennas plus a dome which are all on a big arch on the back of the boat. Sailboats don’t typically have this much space or enough separation space for antennas. That might mean just using less antennas, or it might mean a totally different approach with HD1 domes alone. James\_Bennett: > Sigh - I registered but then couldn’t’ make the webinar (gasp, work). Any chance there is a recording? It was recorded, and as soon as Peplink publishes the recording I will post it here and in the original article. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 February 25, 2022 [ ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/956fb46a38466bfd60e7a2f5ca922aa6dc7bc56c.jpeg "Webinar | Peplink Solutions for Maritime Connectivity") ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3bgkRmoZ5g&ref=seabits.com) Here is the video of the webinar - I’m also going to add it to the original article. Thanks for those that participated and asked questions! ### Initial projects on Kaos URL: https://seabits.com/initial-projects-on-kaos/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:09:20.000Z I've owned Kaos for just about a month now, and am already knee-deep in some smaller projects. I am a big fan of iterative design and project execution, and many of these fall into that category. I may not have all of the pieces of the final design in place, but I've made progress in improving things, and know more about the systems involved. ## Electrical System ### Batteries Unfortunately, within a few days of being aboard, I could tell the main house bank batteries were completely toast. This bank is 6x flooded golf cart style (GC2) 6 volt batteries wired in series pairs to provide 12 volts and a total of 705 amp hours, or 352 usable amp hours. My first trip was from Anacortes to Friday Harbor, and various instruments were behaving erratically because of the bad bank. There were instructions from the previous owner to have an ACR forced on to combine the inverter and house bank while away from the dock for better performance, so I suspected something was up. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/IMG_5262.jpeg) Old batteries removed and carried up the steep hill I was able to find (by a small miracle) a way to get 6x of these batteries in Friday Harbor, and only had to wait a couple of days. The only real challenge was the dock I was at, which had a very steep hill from the boat side up to the parking lot, and required a lot of muscle to remove the old batteries. I chose to replace the flooded batteries with the same chemistry and type, and died a little inside. I've not purchased flooded batteries for myself in many years, although many customers and projects that I've been involved with still go that route. Nevertheless, for about a $1000 investment, I had a working house bank which was going to be important for things like water, toilets, lights, and navigation equipment. I plan on selling these batteries within 1-2 months after putting the new LiFePO4 battery system in. ### AC Power I knew there were some challenges with Kaos' electrical system, specifically the AC side of things. In the first week, I found several wires on the main panel that were in bad condition and needed to be replaced - they were responsible for most of the AC power and distribution, and I'm glad I found that early on instead of during a failure. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/DBDABCA8-81BF-4100-A1F3-624694C6D2E8_1_105_c.jpeg) I also added some monitoring for the two legs of AC power so I can ensure that things are not overloaded and are balanced well. Almost all of the analog gauges on the main panel are wildly inaccurate or don't work at all. I highly recommend manually metering every AC and DC connection when you first buy a boat - never trust what you see on the meters. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/AC-Monitor.png) I found that the primary leg of AC power was running near maximum and at times over the maximum. This is due to some changes that were made at some point in the distant past to allow for both a 50 and 30 amp shore power connection to be used simultaneously, which is a good idea, but the panel was never designed to handle that much load. Breakers don't exist in the right places, and several breakers are sized 30 amps too large for the wire. Much of this has been replaced, bypassed, or will be corrected in the next few weeks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/IMG_5532.jpeg) One of the first things I did is to replace the standard 50 amp shore power inlet and associated difficult to handle Marinco EEL power cable with a SmartPlug and cable. I've used SmartPlugs for years, and even wrote about them over 10 years ago on one of my sailboats after a near fire. Not only are they better designed than standard plugs, but for a 50 amp cable, the actual cable and wire are far more flexible and manageable. If you've ever tried to work with a cold, icy 50 amp cable, you know what I'm talking about. SmartPlug cabling is just better all around. ## Lighting I have an obsession with lighting. I will admit that. I am very picky about the quality of white light, the consistency in how it is thrown out of the fixture or strip, and the ability to control it. In Kaos, I was fortunate enough to be able to do some major retrofits within the first week without too much effort. ### Halogen Hell There are 33 G4-style halogen light fixtures aboard Kaos, and every single one had a standard, old school halogen bulb in it. Not too bad of light quality, but amazingly hot, and a huge drain on the battery bank. With all lights on, I was drawing about 45 amps alone just to power the halogens. 45 amps! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/AB43AABB-7110-4072-A181-7556E4111FE6_1_105_c.jpeg) LunaSea G4 LED lights I have loved the quality and reliability of lights from LunaSea for a number of years and have talked about them before. I ordered various shades and types of lights from LunaSea, MarineBeam, and SailorSams. Hands down, the warm white lights from LunaSea provided the best coverage and most consistent warm white light without any issues. The other vendors had small issues like hot spots, weird noises when the bulbs were running, etc. After replacing all 33 lights, I was down to about 4-5 amps total consumption with all of them on versus 45 amps! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/10483723-C947-455C-AFD3-FC8B038FBA75_1_105_c.jpeg) Sailor Sams red/white lights I am testing some multi function bulbs that allow for red / white, white / blue, and different dimming levels, all through the existing switch. As an example, switching these particular ones on initially start as red, and switching back off and on again within a short period changes it to white. I wanted to have the pilothouse and galley red for night passages or at anchor. These bulbs have some compromises as they are shoving both white and another color in a small package, and they're not made by LunaSea, so I will continue testing for a while before making a final decision. ### New LED strip lights Kaos had some adequate 12 volt accent lights in a few places - above the valences in the salon, all around the upper woodwork in the master berth, under the guest bed edges, all of the stairs, and the whole back rail in the cockpit. These were all the ubiquitous 12 volt rope light that was popular in the late 90s when the boat was built. They aren't the best light consistency and have hot spots where the light element is, and they're not the most power efficient. I wanted something a little nicer and more consistent than the strip LED lights I've used for the last 2 boats. These consisted of a RGBW, or red-green-blue-white, high quality strip with individual LEDs. They required a moderate sized controller with a lot of little fiddly wiring, and a wireless remote somewhere to change colors and dim. While this provided a lot of control, I didn't like the remote at all, and the wiring was prone to some challenges with all of the different connections for the types of lighting and colors. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/image-1.png) Chip On Board LED strip - courtesy of SuperBrightLEDs I found a new style of LED called "chip on board" or COB. This design results in a strip light that has a consistent, unbroken bar of light lasting the whole length of the strip. They are very similar to the RGBW strips in that they can be flexed a lot, stuck down with adhesive that is included on the back of the light strip, and cut to length. They also only require 2 wires, of which you can streamline with barrel connectors. I [purchased a few rolls](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flexible-led-strip-lights/5m-white-cob-led-strip-light-cob-series-led-tape-light-high-cri-12v-24v-ip20/6259/15222/?ref=seabits.com) of these for the salon valences, master bedroom, and guest bedroom. I also purchased the various barrel connectors as well as some WiFi enabled remotes that are slimline and work with Home Assistant (the subject of another article in the future) to allow for automation and centralized control. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/D8F1B596-91CA-489E-9652-F744829D60C2_1_105_c.jpeg) Terrible picture of the new COB LED lighting I am beyond pleased with the quality of the light, the smooth dimming, and the overall look. Gone are the hotspots from individual LEDs, and it looks like a super-professional installation. Both the salon and the master bedroom have a completely new source of light, whereas before it was just an accent. I find that in the salon I use these as the primary way of lighting up the space almost all the time at night. ## Electronics One of the first things I always do aboard a new boat is add some form of electronics. On Kaos, this was a bit easier because of an existing NMEA 2000 bus throughout the boat. My electronics installation is going to be a long journey of different revisions, but to get started, here's what I've done. ### Furuno + TimeZero Professional Mirroring a similar configuration from Rendezvous, I removed all of the Garmin chart plotters, GPS, radar, and other bits. I replaced it with a reliable and powerful system including: - [Furuno SCX-20 satellite compass](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/) - Furuno DRS4DNXT radar - TimeZero Professional on Intel NUC running Windows 10 This combined with the existing Simrad NAC-3 + AP48 autopilot provides me with a fully configurable navigation, planning, and radar suite. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/EE0AAE62-B45F-476E-996A-6AA1B39D3D56_1_105_c.jpeg) Surface Pro running TimeZero on the left Within 24 hours of being on the boat, I actually had a Microsoft Surface Pro screen (undocked from the laptop keyboard portion) velcroed to a spare spot on the helm and connected via the docking station to the NMEA 2000 network. This allowed me to use that system for navigation and charts, since the Garmin system hadn't been updated in a long while. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/17EF0716-0259-4583-B6CF-C3634407EA24_1_105_c.jpeg) First testing of the Furuno DRS4DNXT radar overlay on TimeZero Once I got back to Seattle, I removed the Garmin HD radar and replaced it with the Furuno, along with adding a few other sensors. I have some new displays and other bits and pieces I'm experimenting with and will write more about soon as well. ### Other Electronics Other things I've added within the first few days: - Linux server running SignalK, AIS dispatcher, Saillogger, weather station, and more. - Maretron AC power monitoring. - Maretron IPG gateway + N2Kview to allow for monitoring and alerting - Vesper Cortex VHF/AIS - this replaced the existing AIS transponder and also provides remote monitoring via its connection to NMEA 2000 ## Toilets Not the most exciting thing in terms of projects, but this matches what I did on Grace and Rendezvous early on in our ownership. On Kaos, I've decided to go with Dometic MasterFlush 8100 series heads instead of the Raritan models I've used the last 10 years. This is for a number of reasons. First, I've never had MasterFlush myself, although I've used them on other people's boats. I am always game to try something new and this is a perfect opportunity and low risk choice since so many people love these toilets just as much as folks love the Raritan ones. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/IMG_5510.jpeg) Second, the controls for the 8120 are far easier to use and understand. This was a common problem with the Raritan to the point where I put colored stickers on the buttons to push for guests. The MasterFlush panel is very simple, and the one big button make it very easy to use. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/AD1CDBD5-50EA-423D-A48D-09D1AF6F938F_1_105_c.jpeg) Finally, and most importantly, the MasterFlush has a flat top to it which allows you to use just about any toilet seat on the market, including a full-fledged fancy bidet. More info on that soon. ## Heat Kaos has two heating systems - an extensive Webasto 2020 hydronic system, and a reverse cycle system. The reverse cycle main water circulation pump was damaged during survey, and the previous owner ordered a replacement pump, but it didn't arrive by the time I took possession of the the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/5081248C-F52B-4CC6-B7E9-50D1FFBFFCC0_1_105_c.jpeg) Also during this time, we experienced some of the lowest temperatures we've seen in many years, along with a decent amount of snow. The Webasto hydronic system was left on at about 55F and kept the boat warm and safe from mid-December all the way through mid-January. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/image.png) Lots of smoke from the Webasto While in Friday Harbor, and subsequently out at several anchorages, I noticed a lot more smoke coming from the heater. It got even worse over a period of a few days, but would only happen once a day with the heater running 24x7\. I have had this model of heater before, so I did the usual maintenance steps which included checking the nozzle (I didn't have a spare), ignitors, fuel supply, and a number of other steps. Nothing seemed to help that much. Eventually it stopped igniting altogether. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/C724CF21-AC5E-4E34-B507-1775C7B66C1C_1_105_c.jpeg) An additional side effect is the staining and fiberglass mess that the heater caused. I'm still cleaning this up off of various things, and waiting to do a full clean until I get the heater working again, as I suspect there will be some left over diesel it will burn off. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/6F219157-875A-4336-B8C3-FBE86D4DEAEB_1_105_c.jpeg) Webasto 2020 head I changed out the nozzle as soon as I got back to Seattle, but that did not seem to help. I pulled the head and took it to Sure Marine and am waiting for a diagnosis. In the interim, I was able to get the AC water pump replaced and back up and running. The reverse cycle system has been keeping the boat warm, and works reasonably well, although the hydronic system is a bit warmer since it runs in more places throughout the boat. ## Internet I haven't actually installed a big internet setup quite yet as I'm learning where cables can/can't go, the best spaces to mount routers and switches, and more. To start with, I've been using [Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G router](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-br1-pro-5g-first-impressions/) combined with the [Netgear Nighthawk 5G hotspot](https://seabits.com/netgear-nighthawk-5g/) connected to the WAN port on the router for a second connection. I've been using factory antennas, and have the system sitting in a corner of the pilothouse. It has worked reasonably well since I've been in mostly populated areas. In some of the less connected areas, I was not able to get reliable connectivity, as I expected. Longer term, I plan on having a multi-WAN, multi-modem 5G router mounted in the flybridge somewhere, several test antenna mounts within easy reach, and a couple of Peplink domes. I'll be doing an updated article on my new setup within the next month or so. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/02/80377E6F-43EC-484C-814B-372E9A2C274D_1_105_c.jpeg) I'm really happy to have gotten started on projects, and can't wait to jump into some of the bigger ones. I'm also really excited to get back out on the water and enjoy the boat even more! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 22 comments Jake\_Brownson@Jake\_Brownson February 05, 2022 Congrats on the new boat, thanks for writing about your projects, it’s very interesting. Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert February 05, 2022 Another great write up. After I finish up with my Chinook install I’ll be tackling some of the same l projects. Specifically, the toilet and lighting upgrades. The lights on my boat are all over the color and element spectrum and my vacuflush system has been a PITA since the beginning. Are you selling the Garmin Radar? I’m looking for a temporary dome style solution until I add my new mast or radar arch. If so, let me know the details. I added a new NMEA 2000 backbone and Garmin plotter last summer and plan to build my Garmin system from there. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 February 05, 2022 Jake\_Brownson: > Congrats on the new boat, thanks for writing about your projects, it’s very interesting. Thanks! I love writing about projects just about as much as doing them! Phil\_Probert: > Are you selling the Garmin Radar? I’m looking for a temporary dome style solution until I add my new mast or radar arch. If so, let me know the details. I added a new NMEA 2000 backbone and Garmin plotter last summer and plan to build my Garmin system from there. I am selling the Garmin HD radar plus other bits and pieces including a GPSMAP 5212 chart plotter, a GPSMAP 5208 chart plotter, and associated cabling. I also have two GMI10 displays. I can grab more details on the models and such this weekend. Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert February 05, 2022 Definitely let me know. I’ll be working on the boat in Bremerton and spending time at the boat show all week. azcopperstar@azcopperstar February 05, 2022 Great article, as usual, Steve. Congratulations on the new boat. We, also, are in the middle of a new-to-us boat renovation project. N2K system install going well and all electronics replaced with 2 19" & 2 12" (1 12" displays the Maratron Mbb300 data) touch screens running TZPro with the Furuno digital radar overlay. Also followed your exceptional article on N2K powered raspberry pie setup. I have problems with the pie SD corrupting every once in a while and I have to start over. I would be very interested in learning about your unix server setup. Are the setup instructions identical to the rPie setup? Thanks and keep the great blogs going. Valhowell@Valhowell February 05, 2022 Really good stuff here. I am curious, do the reverse cycle hydronic and wabasco share the same air handlers, pumps etc? I am thinking of adding a diesel hydronic heater toour existing system. And suggestions on companies to assist? I cant get a lot of traction in SoCal. mgfite98034@mgfite98034 February 05, 2022 Good on ya for mentioning your SmartPlug upgrade. If I’m working on a boat that doesn’t have one I’ll harangue the captain until they see the wisdom. Actually it doesn’t take much, for the money it’s one of the best safety upgrades anyone make make. mgfite98034@mgfite98034 February 05, 2022 [![image](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/fa9e71853a09c462d21011e2a53cdfc13cdc5e80.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/fa9e71853a09c462d21011e2a53cdfc13cdc5e80.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "image") An early COVID project was to finally tackle a complicated electric toilet install. I’m with you regarding Raritan (and most others) toilet controls. A little too much for guests and crew. Also, thanks to heightened sanitation awareness due to COVID, I decided that I wanted foot switches. Since nothing existed that was quite what I wanted, in my typical way I ended up building a toilet control that gave me exactly the features I wanted. The user only has to deal with 2 momentary switches: fill & flush. Everybody gets it immediately. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 February 05, 2022 azcopperstar: > I would be very interested in learning about your unix server setup. Are the setup instructions identical to the rPie setup? I use an Intel NUC for my main boat Linux server ([Using an Intel NUC as a powerful boat server](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/)) that has a proper solid state storage disk and more powerful CPU which is important for the amount of data I have flowing through it. I had issues with the SD card as you are, and also just overall horsepower. The setup process is not identical. The basic operating system and general steps there are a bit different. Once past that point, most of the software is similar if not identical in the installation side. Valhowell: > Really good stuff here. I am curious, do the reverse cycle hydronic and wabasco share the same air handlers, pumps etc? I am thinking of adding a diesel hydronic heater toour existing system. And suggestions on companies to assist? I cant get a lot of traction in SoCal. The Webasto and reverse cycle system use separate pumps and air handlers. Some share the same ducting, but that’s about it. Someone else asked me about this recently, and there was only one mainstream system that offered it from Webasto called BlueCool. I also didn’t like having everything integrated to that level where one failure takes out both systems, sort of like I’m dealing with now! But I do know that space can be at a premium, and some of these systems could be a benefit on that front. mgfite98034: > Actually it doesn’t take much, for the money it’s one of the best safety upgrades anyone make make. Agreed! I’ve done it on all of my boats since they started offering the product, and on many customer boats! mgfite98034: > Also, thanks to heightened sanitation awareness due to COVID, I decided that I wanted foot switches. Foot switches are a great idea! Awesome install! William Pozo@billbertin February 06, 2022 Thank you for sharing this. Really nice to read and understand the various stuff going on in the boat world. Giving me lots of encouragement to finally buy a boat! Mike@Mike February 06, 2022 Steve, congrats on Kaos and also on a bunch of successful initial projects! I was particularly interested when I heard about your battery issues as I was expecting you would probably replace with a more modern chemistry. I was a bit surprised that you just put flooded back in Kaos but sounds like that is a temporary measure. I’m curious what your plans are for LiFePO4? I just reread your adventures in adding LiFePO4 to Grace back in 2018 and am curious how things will work this time with a different boat and 3-4 years of time passed. Are the options pretty much the same or possibly better/simpler now? Are you planning to take on and write about that project pretty soon? (I’m going to need to replace our boat’s house bank soon myself and would like to try something different.) Thanks for all your articles, they are always an interesting read. Bill on SV Denali Rose@wrwakefield February 07, 2022 Congrats on your newest vessel, and thank you for sharing informed details about all your projects. I always find your write-up very informative. Our vessel also suffers from diesel exhaust smears since both the main engine and generator exhaust amidships on the hull of our Nauticat 43. As you noted, many products remove some/most of the soot marks, but always leave evidence behind… Last year during our haulout, some dear experienced boating friends handed us their bottle of '[*Someone to do it*’ cream cleaner](https://sobeyama.com/index.php/shop-our-products/Someone-To-Do-It-Cream-Cleaner-quart-p51944616?ref=seabits.com). \[No affiliation…\] A quarter sized dob on a cleaning rag and a minute later all evidence we are diesel powered was erased. Since the product is non-volatile it can be shipped USPS, therefore we could even order some delivered to us in Alaska. We won’t ever be without it… This is just a FWIW as our- and the experience of others we have recommended this product to- has always been outstanding. I should also mention our hull was painted with 2 part LPU \[AWLgrip\] in 1995… In case this is useful. Cheers! Bill Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #13 February 08, 2022 Mike: > I’m curious what your plans are for LiFePO4? I am planning on a LiFePO4 main bank using 48 volt batteries and various other bits to other banks. I mentioned a bit of the design in the initial post about Kaos here: [Meet Kaos!](https://seabits.com/meet-kaos/) I’m hoping to finalize my design this week so I can begin ordering the big parts, and I will be posting multiple articles about the design throughout the process. wrwakefield: > We won’t ever be without it… Thanks for the recommendation! nnarth212@nnarth212 February 10, 2022 New user to Seabits. Loving the informative posts and engaging style. I’ve a 42’ mid 90s Catalina — solid fiber glass cabin healiner, a few questions. You seem to have a plethora of supplier knowledge. Lighting: 1. recommend any surface mount fixtures for the LunaSea red/white? existing lighting consists of small tacky -brass spot lights… wall mount. i would love continuous overhead lighting all over. (i’d love to do red or white (integrated) dimmable tape lights, alas, i don’t believe my product use case merits an actual product ?) 1. driver and remotes for the tape lights? you mention another post (pending) and homelink. possible to share a link to these? Best regards on the new acquisition — super excited to watch the build! CB Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #16 February 11, 2022 nnarth212: > 1. recommend any surface mount fixtures for the LunaSea red/white? existing lighting consists of small tacky -brass spot lights… wall mount. i would love continuous overhead lighting all over. Not 100% sure I understand, but if you’re looking for surface mount fixtures to replace the brass circular ones that are between 5 and 6" around, LunaSea offers a silver/chrome option that has a switch to flip it between red/white or blue/white. I used those on Rendezvous in a lot of areas. nnarth212: > driver and remotes for the tape lights? you mention another post (pending) and homelink. possible to share a link to these? I’m currently experimenting with this particular controller on three strips [https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/wi-fi-bluetooth-single-color-led-controller-alexa-google-assistant-smartphone-compatible-3-amps6-amps-12-24-vdc/6776/15227/?accessory\_of=6259-controllers](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/wi-fi-bluetooth-single-color-led-controller-alexa-google-assistant-smartphone-compatible-3-amps6-amps-12-24-vdc/6776/15227/?accessory%5Fof=6259-controllers&ref=seabits.com) It uses WiFi for control, which is both better and worse than the proprietary stuff that I’ve used a lot before with dedicated remotes. It is compatible with Home Assistant, and they have their own iOS and Android app you can use as well. So far it has been working well, although I am hearing a high pitched hum at some times depending on the power level which I am trying to trace. It’s very faint, and no one else but me seems to be able to hear it, but something I definitely want to investigate. nnarth212@nnarth212 February 11, 2022 Thank you, Steve! To clarify the cabin salon, interior headliner (to which any overhead lighting would mount) is fiberglass-- no space for recessed lights or wiring. So surface mount is the only option (which is why the low profile tape lights are attractive.) I’ll share photos asap. I appreciate the response and kudos to the vibrant community, here! Much appreciated! Steve Mitchell@steve February 12, 2022 The surface mount light I’ve used and mentioned above is this one: [Lunasea Lighting LLB-10WR-2A-CR | Fisheries Supply](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/lunasea-lighting-5-1-2in-led-surface-mount-light-warm-white-red-output/llb-10wr-2a-cr?ref=seabits.com) Kevin McLaughlin@WallaceGrommet February 16, 2022 Left field question here, but a habit of mine to see a nautical chart and figure out where the boat is from limited data. Your two chartplotter screens are showing waters I can’t seem to recognize! Sure , haven’t had coffee yet, but still! Any clues? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #20 February 16, 2022 WallaceGrommet: > Your two chartplotter screens are showing waters I can’t seem to recognize! Sure , haven’t had coffee yet, but still! Any clues? I’m south bound in Admiralty Inlet just off of Marrowstone Island with Nodule Point just to my starboard, and Bush Point way off to my port. Directly off my bow is Foulweather Bluff. Kevin McLaughlin@WallaceGrommet↩ #21 February 17, 2022 Thanks! Everything looked familiar but I suspected the plotters weren’t in north up. Always dismayed at how poorly I do recognizing a chart position ad hoc Franz Kerekes@Franz\_Kerekes March 09, 2022 What current sensors are you using to monitor your AC legs? I’m wondering if I can feed that info back into my MultiPlus to limit overall shore power current draw since one leg is not currently visible to it. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #23 March 10, 2022 I am using Maretron AC current monitors. I don’t think you can feed NMEA 2000 data back into a MultiPlus to change the shore power limits. In fact, if you have a MultiPlus, don’t you only have one leg? Or do you have multiples? ### Meet Kaos! URL: https://seabits.com/meet-kaos/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:18:52.000Z Please welcome a new addition to the family - [Kaos](https://seabits.com/kaos/), a 1994 Symbol 55 pilot house! She became part of the family in early January, and I've been spending all of my time aboard getting to know her. 🛥️ The full listing information along with lots of pictures are on [Kaos main page here](https://seabits.com/kaos/). ## Quick Specs Here are some quick specifications on Kaos: LOA: 56' 6" Beam: 16' 9" Draft: 4' Bridge Clearance: 21' Maximum Speed: 21 Knots Cruise Speed: 9.5 Knots Fuel Tank: 756 Gallons Fresh Water: 220 Gallons Holding Tank: 95 Gallons ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/IMG_5080.jpeg) She's listed at 32 tons, which is roughly 64,000 pounds, but I've also seen higher numbers on other paperwork. I suspect with full tanks and fully loaded with all of my junk, she'll be between 60,000 and 70,000 pounds. The yard that put us in for the survey (she was stored on the hard) was one of the least amenable group of folks I've worked with, and while we did get in the water, weren't able to give me any weights. ## Favorite Features Here are a few things I loved when I first saw Kaos, and have liked even more in the first few weeks of ownership. ### Pilothouse This wasn't one of my hard requirements back when I wrote [Sailing towards Power](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/) while searching for Rendezvous, but it was in the back of my mind. So many boats in the Pacific Northwest have pilot houses to allow for year round comfortable piloting. I wanted a flybridge at the time, and for that to be the primary driving location because of visibility. I did look at a number of boats then with a pilothouse, but in the 40-45 foot range, that really took away from the interior living space. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/DSC05730-1.jpg) Kaos has a fantastic pilothouse with plenty of space to drive from, a good layout of instruments, fantastic visibility forwards, and even a nice settee for guests to relax on while underway. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/DSC05731-1.jpg) There's a nice sliding door on one side to allow for quick access to the deck, and all of the business of running the boat lives up here - electrical, generator controls, etc. - out of the living areas. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/DSC05733-1.jpg) Visibility both standing and sitting is very good. ### Stand up engine room This was one of the things that drew me into looking at the boat, and on my first visit, really sold me on her. Almost all of the engine room has enough space for me to stand which is an amazing luxury on a boat this size. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/DSC05734-1.jpg) Not only that, but the access around everything is excellent. Being able to get to both sides of the engines pretty much unrestricted is something I've never had on any boat. There's also a ton of space to add things with clear paths for wiring, piping, and other needs. Unlike other boats I've had or seen, there's also room for expansion, and plenty of space where things are already installed to move stuff around. No more decisions that end up having a compromise because something is already in one spot, or because of sheer lack of space. I would probably say this is my favorite room on the boat! ### Stability One of the things I set out find was a boat that was more stable at anchor and underway. My initial focus was on more traditional full-displacement trawlers, similar to one I had many years ago, and also similar in stability to all of the sailboats I've had. My favorite boat for a long time has been the DeFever 49, and that matched what I was looking for. But getting stabilization underway required more systems, usually fin stabilizers. Finding a full displacement trawler with those features put me right in the market that is hardest to find a boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/SYMBOL-55_00076.jpeg) Kaos so far has really impressed me. While not a full displacement trawler, general design makes her sit at anchor and at the dock far more comfortably than Rendezvous ever did. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/IMG_4674.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/SYMBOL-55_00334.jpeg) Wesmar stabilizer and control panel Underway Kaos has a Wesmar stabilization system using hydraulic pressure off of the port engine. This is the type of system I had been searching for, and I am very pleased with how it operates in crappy weather. ### Mechanical systems ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/DSC05736-1.jpg) All of the mechanical systems on Kaos are in fantastic shape, and there are a lot of them, all sized and setup the way I would have done it. These include things like: - 2x CAT 3208TA main engines with 2400 hours, hydraulic controls, and in excellent condition - 800 gallon per day Dolphin watermaker - 13Kw Koehler generator with sound shield and quiet overboard exhaust - Webasto hydronic heat system with well designed loops, 5 zones, and hot water tank - MarineAir AC systems in pilot house, salon, and master berth - Reverso oil change system - Hydraulic engine controls and steering - Wesmar bow thruster and stabilizers Plus lots of other smaller systems. All are in excellent condition, professionally installed, and from the looks of it, very well maintained. ### General Layout This is the thing that guests have commented on the most - the excellent proportions and sight lines in the layout, and it is one of the things I love about Kaos too. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/DSC05728.jpg) Being able to see from the pilothouse back through the flybridge stairs, through the salon, and out to the stern is very helpful when in close quarters maneuvering. But the best part of the layout is that each space is sized to feel like it is bigger than what you should find on a 57' boat. Many boats I looked at had huge salons, but tiny galleys, or the galley shared space with the pilothouse. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/2780267_e72a4354_10-1.jpeg) However they did it, all of the spaces on Kaos seem more than just adequate - they seem big, and they did that to all areas, but none seem enormous. That results in every space being bigger than you would expect, and it makes everything work together since no one single space is too small to make room for space somewhere else. I'm not doing a great job explaining this, but it was definitely something that I found hard to find on other boats - there was always a couple of spaces that were borderline usable because they stole space from that area to give it to another. ## Projects There are a number of projects that I have on my list, some of which are more upgrades than brand new features, but here are some of the highlights: ### 48 volt power system This is one of the top priorities, if not the top one. The boat currently has two main battery banks, one for the inverter, and one for house loads. Within a few days of owning Kaos, it was clear the 2014 flooded batteries for the house bank were shot. I replaced them for now with for-like flooded batteries, which was all that was available on short notice. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/Kaos-Electrical.png) Proposed 48 volt power system for Kaos 48 volt power systems are not common on boats of this vintage, and require thought around existing voltage systems and devices. I won't be replacing the 12 or 24 volt items I have on board, but rather providing conversion from 48 volt to them to allow me to continue using them as-is. Eventually I might convert some things to 48 volt, but this allows me to start with the big item in house and inverter loads. Why convert to 48 volt at all? Efficiency and capacity are the primary reasons. 400 amp hours of 48 volt batteries, which is equivalent to 1600 amp hours of 12 volts, can be fit into a fairly small space - about the same space that my 900 amp hour flooded batteries (450 usable amp hours at 50%!) are taking up. That's almost 4x the capacity in the same space. From the efficiency perspective, inverters are 96% effective with 48 volts, and only about 91% efficient at 12 volts. You can use much, much smaller cabling from a 48 volt inverter to a battery bank as well, which is one of the primary reasons I'm considering this design. I was reaching the theoretical maximum for cable size with some of the 12 volt installations I'd considered. I will be writing a lot more about this power system very soon. ### No MFD Navigation Setup Kaos came with a bunch of Garmin equipment including GPSMAP 52xx series chart plotters, GMI10 instruments, GPS antenna, and a few other things. These are already in the process of being removed and replaced with Furuno components. The high level details of the system are a Furuno SCX-20 satellite compass, Furuno DRS4DNXT radar, and TimeZero Professional running on multiple PCs. This combined with a fairly new Simrad AP48 / NAC-3 autopilot system should allow excellent navigation, planning, and radar overlay all via PC. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/TZ-Pro-radar-wasp-passage-1-1024x555.png) I've been using a hybrid of this for the last 2 years on Rendezvous, along with TZT2 series MFDs, and have loved it. I've grown to not even use the TZTs, and I don't see the reason to spend 2-3x (or more) on MFDs that have less capabilities and speed. I can do everything I need to within TimeZero Pro, and it's easier to do so using a PC from the planning perspective. If you've never used the route planner in TZ, it's worth the investment just for that part of the software. I'll also have access to all of the other NMEA 2000 data and I intend on installing cameras as well so I can monitor the engine room and docking, as I've done on the last couple of boats. These will be usable in TimeZero as well. ### Electronics & Monitoring ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/image.png) Kaos Grafana dashboard I'll be installing my usual amount of sensors throughout the boat and connecting everything I can think of to monitoring and different busses. I already have SignalK running connecting some systems together, and Grafana and Influx capturing and graphing data. Maretron's N2KView is also up and running already providing real-time information. I intend on having even more sensors than before for all sorts of things. I've already started planning that I may need a separate NMEA 2000 bus just for sensors that is separate from the navigation bus just to ensure I don't go over the maximum amp draw for a single NMEA 2000 bus. Plus, I am looking forward to using non-NMEA 2000 sensors for various things and feeding that data into the network via SignalK. ### Engine digitization The gauges for the engines need some help overall. The RPM gauges tend to bounce around a bit at particular RPMs, or when using the synchronizer. The gauges on the flybridge are quite a bit off on RPMs, which was noted in the survey. I've used the Actisense EMU-1 on both Rendezvous and Grace to convert analog gauges and senders into NMEA 2000 data, and I am looking to do something similar on Kaos. I have the Actisense EMU-1, NoLand RS11, and AlbaCombi plus an interesting combination product that might do the same thing, only slightly better. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/IMG_5336.jpeg) I like lots of gauges, especially older ones, and big knobs and switches, but I think this particular layout can be optimized. The current plan is to digitize all of the circular analog gauges you see above, update all of the switches below, and move them around to match functions, and remove a few things that can go full NMEA 2000 like tank level gauges and such. Ideally, all of this would move over to one of the wings, the engine stuff would be on a monitor/PC screen, switches would be NMEA 2000 and a physical backup for most things. Then this entire center area could be a wider monitor showing navigation data. The wing monitors would flip back and forth depending on the "mode" the boat is in and show engine data while underway, and other data while at anchor or the dock. The first step is to digitize the engine gauges so I can get more reliable readings. In true iterative style, I likely won't move to the full glass helm for a while until I am happy with the engine data being as reliable as possible. ### Head upgrades The boat came with VacuFlush heads which I am not a fan of. Rendezvous came with these as well, and right before a big trip one of them started showing issues that would have required a lot of work. I replaced those heads, and the ones on my previous boat Grace, with Raritan Marine Elegance electric heads. I love those heads, but the control panels have always been a difficult thing for guests to use, even with a big dot on the button to push. I also want both heads to have bidets - having had those for 2+ years on Rendezvous, I would never go back. Far less toilet paper usage, and much better cleanliness. Raritan makes a bidet, but it is special order and took quite a while to get the last time. It wasn't as friendly user-wise as I would have liked. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/304814020-304814021-2__71523.1570698121.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/01/shopify_1c791eb1-5faf-49f4-85a8-e96acfe887b3_1800x1800.jpeg) So I am looking at the Dometic Masterflush 8100 series and adding a BioBidet seat on top of it. The Dometic is rated just as high as the Raritan, and has simpler controls. I have a number of friends who have one that love them just as much as you can love a toilet, which is a lot on a boat! ## Wrap Up These are just a few of the big projects I'm considering, but as all new boat owners know, I have a massive list of other things that aren't as fun or exciting as the items above that need to be done as well. I am actually looking forwards to all of this, as having projects is a way of life for me, and keeps me sane and grounded. I hope you enjoyed seeing a few pictures of Kaos - you can check out more detailed specifications and more photos at the [main Kaos page](https://seabits.com/kaos/) \- and look forward to being back on the water and seeing you out there as well! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 15 comments Steve Mitchell@steve January 17, 2022 And for anyone wondering how you pronounce Kaos, it would be the same as the word chaos. Phonetically it would be “KAY-oss” Scott@ThreeFN January 17, 2022 Look forward to this buildout, especially the 48v system. I’m guessing the 12v 100a mppt is being used for charge/conversion of the 12v bank since 48v is still pretty niche (unfortunately). I think I remember reading about that off-piste use casein the Victron forums. Also looking forward to all the 48v ancillaries you’re able to find (fuses, breakers, connectors, etc), it seems like all the spec sheets I read say 9-32v. Is testing the WS3000 on the cards as well with this system? Also would love to hear about your battery selection process, and maybe a PSA about (not) building 4x12v series stacks from ‘drop in’ lithium batteries. Perry Stanfield @Perry\_Stanfield January 17, 2022 I have to assume that she is referencing the arch-organization in “Get Smart”? Congrats on your find. She checks all the boxes most us would have for a coastal cruiser. What’s lacking? Where shall she venture first…… Mexico or Alaska? Huge Congrats Steve mgfite98034@mgfite98034 January 17, 2022 Congrats! So… You’ll be trading your Peplink for a Shoe Phone? Lots of new projects to write about. I’m very interested to hear more about your battery choice, i.e. ECPC. And 48V vs. 24V decision. Wyatt@Wyatt January 17, 2022 She’s a beauty. Looks like a great platform for tinkering and tuning. Sergei\_Prutkin@Sergei\_Prutkin January 18, 2022 Hey Steve. Congrats on your new boat, she sounds amazing, especially I love the engine room! I love your 48V idea! I built 24V 800Ah battery a year ago for our sailboat and we love it! I used high quality Winston 700Ah cells, REC 16S BMS with CAN+Victron integration, Wakespeed WS500 with REC BMS via CAN integration. REC BMS is an excellent piece of kit and controls all our chargers(including solar) and inverters. The Winston cells are super generous on their capacity specs , and typically have 20% bigger capacity than they state, ie our 700Ah cells turned out to be 837Ah in my discharge tests. I highly recommend that you pick 16S configuration and not 16S2P config. I am sure this will be a super interesting project, if you need any info please let me know. Best regards, S PY@Paul\_Young January 18, 2022 I was hoping you had splashed for an FPB! I’m running 48V LiFEPO4, using an extra solar MPPT to charge the 12V Odyssey that runs the house / start (single 12v). Victron’s 48-12 is a bit limited but the MPPT is perfect. Logic being parts commonality (same MPPT as solar), less rewiring / weight, and no BMS to trip out in event of catastophe. AGM is reliable for last resort. Christine Hodgins@Christine\_Kling January 19, 2022 Congratulations from the Möbius crew! We’re really looking forward to learning from all the new projects you have planned. Hartley Gardner@Hartley January 24, 2022 Nice! The view of the pilothouse with all the round “steam” gauges is reminiscent of Ben Ellison’s original fly bridge on *Gizmo* Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 January 26, 2022 ThreeFN: > Look forward to this buildout, especially the 48v system. I’m guessing the 12v 100a mppt is being used for charge/conversion of the 12v bank since 48v is still pretty niche (unfortunately). I think I remember reading about that off-piste use casein the Victron forums. Also looking forward to all the 48v ancillaries you’re able to find (fuses, breakers, connectors, etc), it seems like all the spec sheets I read say 9-32v. You are correct about the MPPT - it will bridge the 48V bank to the 12V house “bank”. I’ve not found that many problems with fuses and such - there won’t need to be many since it’s just the inverter, alternators, and MPPT on that 48V bank. ThreeFN: > Is testing the WS3000 on the cards as well with this system? Maybe. I’ve not been impressed with what I’m hearing so far around it, and I’ve had my own challenges with WS-500s where it seems like certain features are not fully baked. Relying on something like the WS-3000 to power all of my 12V side is a bit more than I’d like right now. ThreeFN: > Also would love to hear about your battery selection process, and maybe a PSA about (not) building 4x12v series stacks from ‘drop in’ lithium batteries. I looked at a lot of different choices out there, but none of them were really that baked. Combining 12 or 24 volt batteries to form 48 volts just didn’t seem like a good idea. I’m sure I will have something more to say about it in upcoming articles. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 January 26, 2022 Perry\_Stanfield: > I have to assume that she is referencing the arch-organization in “Get Smart”? > > Congrats on your find. She checks all the boxes most us would have for a coastal cruiser. What’s lacking? Where shall she venture first…… Mexico or Alaska? The evil empire in Get Smart (KAOS) is one way to look at it! Alaska is definitely on the list! mgfite98034: > Congrats! > So… You’ll be trading your Peplink for a Shoe Phone? > Lots of new projects to write about. I’m very interested to hear more about your battery choice, i.e. ECPC. And 48V vs. 24V decision. Haha good one on the shoe phone. ECPC has a very well reviewed set of cells by various folks on the 'net, and there are very few other 48V choices out there. 24 volt is great, but there are still limitations with the size of wiring and other bits that 48 volts gets passed. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 January 26, 2022 Sergei\_Prutkin: > Hey Steve. Congrats on your new boat, she sounds amazing, especially I love the engine room! I love your 48V idea! I built 24V 800Ah battery a year ago for our sailboat and we love it! I used high quality Winston 700Ah cells, REC 16S BMS with CAN+Victron integration, Wakespeed WS500 with REC BMS via CAN integration. REC BMS is an excellent piece of kit and controls all our chargers(including solar) and inverters. The Winston cells are super generous on their capacity specs , and typically have 20% bigger capacity than they state, ie our 700Ah cells turned out to be 837Ah in my discharge tests. I highly recommend that you pick 16S configuration and not 16S2P config. I am sure this will be a super interesting project, if you need any info please let me know. Best regards, S I’m very familiar with the REC BMS as well as the WS500s. I’ve not built with Winston, but I have with others. This time around I will be using Victron’s Cerbo GX as a central controller along with a touch display, plus the ECPC batteries that are built with a lot of great components. Glad to hear about your setup - it might help if I end up going a different route! Paul\_Young: > I was hoping you had splashed for an FPB! > I’m running 48V LiFEPO4, using an extra solar MPPT to charge the 12V Odyssey that runs the house / start (single 12v). Victron’s 48-12 is a bit limited but the MPPT is perfect. > Logic being parts commonality (same MPPT as solar), less rewiring / weight, and no BMS to trip out in event of catastophe. AGM is reliable for last resort. Hah, I can’t afford an FPB! That’s great to hear that you’re doing something similar to what I’m looking at. My design is almost finalized - I am likely going to use 2x 100 amp hour LiFePO4 batteries as my house 12v bank so that I have a constant voltage setup. I have become used to not having lights blink and having a more stable voltage overall the last 8 years or so with LiFePO4 boats. What did you end up using for your 48V batteries? Any other challenges you found? Sergei\_Prutkin@Sergei\_Prutkin↩ #9 January 26, 2022 Hey Paul, I think we talked in the past on FB lithium on the boat forums. I would love to see what you have done. Do you have your setup documented somewhere? Thanks! Sergei\_Prutkin@Sergei\_Prutkin↩ #14 January 26, 2022 Steve, I am using CERBO as well. In my case it serves more as a CAN router from REC BMS to VE bus and to WS500\. Looking forward to see your setup. PY@Paul\_Young↩ #14 January 26, 2022 48V is a little difficult to get rated switches and fuses. Small blade fuses are a real hassle. The fail is not graceful. I would keep the 48 scope limited I stayed with AGM for the 12v as that way no possible chance of BMS disconnect for criticals. Only need a single battery. I used same MPPT units for Solar and DCDC. Winston is a little larger, but overperform and never ever fail. Also avaialble in more sizes than most others. 48v alternator integration is a hassle. ### Hurricane Chinook hydronic heating system URL: https://seabits.com/hurricane-chinook-hydronic-heating-system/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:06:43.000Z Rendezvous came with a Webasto forced air heating system which was inferior in a number of ways. I decided to replace it with hydronic, but had to do some investigation first. ## Existing System Challenges The boat came with a Webasto AirTop 5500 which failed within the first 6 months of me owning the boat, right in the middle of the winter. I'm lucky that I am near Seattle most of the time, and Sure Marine, the biggest Webasto shop in the US. They took at look at the unit and determined it would be more to fix than it was worth. The heat exchanger itself was part of a recall or issue they'd seen before, allowing some exhaust to seep into the hot air path, and into the living space - generally a bad thing. It also appeared to have a ton of hours on it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/IMG_2627.jpeg) Webasto AirTop 55 with Sure Wire board I replaced it with an AirTop 55 which is the same exact size unit, but with a newer model number and likely newer electronics. I did this because at the time, this was the least path of resistance - drop in the new unit, and be back in business. Unfortunately, it wasn't that easy. I continued to have issues with the new unit for the rest of the year, and into the second winter I owned Rendezvous. Throughout the year of on-and-off issues, I traced all of the piping, found much of it to be installed incorrectly in just about every way. The exhaust was too long and had weird bends in places. The hot air supply was held together with heat tape, very few clamps, and split apart in many places where it was leaking tons of heat out. In one spot, I found the heat piping just dumping hot air into a wall and never reaching the vent. And don't get me started on the electrical wiring, which was not even close to manufacturer's recommendations. None of this was done by Sure Marine, to be clear. Also during this time, I extended a smaller duct from the dinette area up into the v-berth, which had zero diesel heat until that point. Why someone would have put ducted heating throughout the boat, but left out the guest berth and head is beyond me! The final straw was in late 2020 when the new AirTop 55 unit began shutting down every few hours. By this point I had corrected all of the ducting, fixed the exhaust, replaced the fuel feed lines, and re-run the electrical wiring. Even then, the Airtop 55 continued to shut down and indicate a general fault. After taking it to Sure Marine 3 times in the space of 3 weeks, only to have them tell me there was nothing wrong with it, I knew it was time to search for a new solution. I'm sure the size of the boat, the amount of times it had to run, and the existing exhaust was contributing to the reliability. I put in a Wallas Spartan unit I had access to which kept me alive for a few more months, but was just too small for the boat at 15,400 BTU. The Webasto was bigger at 18,750 BTU, but that was still too small. I had a [Wallas on Grace](https://seabits.com/installing-wallas-heater/), and it worked very well, especially because it constantly circulated the air and used continuous fans, but on Rendezvous it was very loud since it had to run at near max, and just didn't heat enough during cold days. ## Calculations One key thing to do when dealing with heating or air conditioning is to ensure you have an appropriately sized system to handle the loads required. In the 90's and early 2000's, I spent a lot of time designing and building computer data centers, and learned a lot about air flow and related principles. This included things like the measurement of heating or cooling, how much you could reasonably expect to heat or cool air in a given cycle through a system, recycling air from spaces back through the system, and how to calculate grill sizes, duct sizing, and many other things. When planning an installation on a boat, you need to ensure that you consider many of these things as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Room-Sizes.png) The first calculation I started with involved the size of each room. From that you can calculate the volume of the room. This is necessary to figure out the heat load, or heating requirements, for each room. You'll need to measure the length, width and height of each room (estimated in a lot of cases for funky shaped things like a v-berth) and then calculate the volume by multiplying those all together. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Room-BTU.png) The next step is to calculate the BTU, which will ultimately give you the size or capacity of the unit/system you need for the spaces. To do this, I multiplied the volume of the room by a multiplier, and got the BTU. This is where there is a bit more art to the science. Some vendors recommended using a multiplier of 10 for rooms, while others suggested almost 20\. The average for most boats of Rendezvous age from what I could tell is 15, with spaces that are more utilized using a multiplier of 18\. This assumes a few things that could change depending on your boat and location. First, it assumes that your boat is not insulated that much. Mine has insulation in the walls in everything from the deck upwards, but in many places, it is uninsulated, such as the engine room walls and hull. If you had a different brand of boat, say one built for crossing oceans or for high latitude cruising, you might have better insulation, and be able to factor the multipler down. Although, if you intend on being in cold areas, you might not want to, and over design the system a bit. Second, this assumes the cruising area that I am in - the Pacific Northwest. We get decently cold weather, sometimes dipping below freezing in the general area, but the further north you go, it gets much colder, which requires a bigger system/multiplier. If you lived in a warmer climate, and never intended on taking the boat into colder waters, you could get away with a smaller multipler and less BTUs. In the end, I factored up the multiplier to 18 for the salon and galley area because it is my primary living space, much larger with taller ceilings, and has lots of windows to lose heat through. I wanted it to be comfortable, but I also knew it was leaky and prone to lose more heat. This resulted in a number of 46,322 BTU. That's perfect, because most of the systems I was looking at were about 50,000 BTU. This was several times larger than the Webasto or Wallas, and is a good reason to make sure when you have a system installed, or install it yourself, that you have an appropriate sized unit installed. You will also want to factor in any other heat loads that the system will be responsible for such as instant or "tankless" hot water, engine coolant heating loops, and the like. Those can add even more requirements to your design if you intend on using them simultaneously all the time. For my setup, while I intended on using hot water a lot, I felt like a 50,000 BTU unit would provide more than enough capacity to heat the whole boat while also running that piece. ## What Brand to Choose? Before choosing a hydronic system, I did months of research, participated in training programs, worked with local installers, and designed a system using each major manufacturer just to see how things would work out. I looked at a number of vendors including ITR, Webasto, Olympia, Kabola, Wallas, and some less known ones as well. Wallas didn't make a system big enough, and it was forced air, which I wanted to get away from. Olympia and Kabola are very popular on larger boats because they are residential boilers and tend to last a lot longer. The smallest unit from Olympia would have been over 200 pounds, and required a huge amount of space, and an enormous amount of power, and even though this is what Sure Marine recommended for a live aboard, I just couldn't justify the space or power. Kabola is very popular as well, but after repeated attempts to engage the one guy in the US who sells them, I decided that I did not want to have a critical system supported by that small of a company. Ultimately that led to two finalists: ITR's Hurricane series, and the old venerable Webasto units from Sure Marine. ### Webasto 2010S Sure Marine has sold Webasto setups for many years and has an excellent website and resources available. They also have a [list of heater kits](https://www.suremarineservice.com/Heat/Deluxe-Heater-Kits/?ref=seabits.com) that you can start with which have all of the components you'll need for an install. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Sure-Marine-Webasto-2010s.png) The system that made the most sense for my setup was the Webasto 2010S model, which was listed as a 50,000 BTU unit. This was a pretty traditional system that had been around for over 20 years. A big diesel boiler (the 2010S), AC or DC circulation pump, loops to various places, a loop to your water heater, expansion and buffer tanks, and a few other things. I had a similar system on a previous boat 15 years ago, and actually did an install of a very similar system another boat I owned. So I knew what I was getting into, and some of the pros/cons of the system. In general, these systems can be very reliable, modular, and provide a very good result. However, they are older in design, and have some issues I wanted to avoid. **Hot water** \- I wanted this system to provide near instant hot water while it was on. This was something I would use not just in the winter, but at anchor year round. Doing this would require an additional tank and piping, adding about $1500, as well as some complexity. **Components & Space** \- these systems have a lot of bits and pieces, and that can be a challenge on a boat the size of Rendezvous - mainly, finding space for all of them. They include a circulation pump, expansion and buffer tanks, manifolds for various loops so you can disable the heating loop for summer, and more. The biggest challenge that I couldn't overcome easily was the expansion tank, which has to be a certain height above everything else, and was at a loss where to put it without major surgery. **Noise / Exhaust** \- Webasto units are not known to be quiet. Their exhaust also gets extremely hot, and you have to make sure you have a good exhaust path. I wanted to try to find something quieter and more efficient. **DC/AC circulation pump** \- Sure absolutely insisted on an AC circulation pump if the system was going to be used for lots of hours throughout the year. They said that DC circulation pumps wear out far faster, and as a result need to be replaced more often. In several cases it was hinted that they wouldn't support or sell a DC pump for an installation that was being used constantly. The issue I had was that the AC pump they recommended required 80 watts of AC power pretty much continuously while the loop is on, which translates to about 7.75 amps of DC battery power all the time. **Power** \- the 2010 does eat quite a bit of power, and combine that with the circulation pump above, and you may have issues running things continually. ### ITR Hurricane Chinook The other system that I was very interested in was the [ITR Hurricane Chinook](https://itrheat.com/products/marin-heating-systems/hurricane-chinook/?ref=seabits.com). ITR has had the Hurricane series out for at least 15 years, and has made various different models with different features. I had worked on a number of boats with the Hurricane 2 and Hurricane 2L units, and the majority of folks seemed to love them for their reliability & quiet operation. However, there were quite a few vocal folks who hated their Hurricanes. What I found was that in almost all cases, the people who had units they hated had some part of the install that wasn't quite right. I visited a few of them in person, and having spent a lot of time with install techs working on Hurricane, could see the biggest flaw with most of them was the exhaust routing and length. If you exceed the recommendations from ITR, the unit will simply not function reliably. Several boats I visited had exhausts in excess of this length, and had issues with flame outs and parts of things getting dirtier or more worn out than others. Webasto units appear to be quite a bit more forgiving with their installation requirements. While they will still have burner issues, they just seem to go through those parts faster, whereas the Hurricane units will just shut down. What I loved about the ITR units was their more modern approach to the way the burn chamber and system worked. From their website, they say "built on a low-pressure burner platform: a patented technology that offers a safe, quiet, 'no-smoke, no-smell,' diesel burner that improves efficiency while lowering system maintenance cycles." I had been around enough of these units to know this was true - very quiet, lower temperature, smokeless burns. The Chinook was even more interesting to me because it was an all-in-one unit that provided 50,000 BTU of heating capacity, had a built-in on-demand hot water system, and had simple maintenance via the front panel. No external pumps, tanks, or other things were required, which simplified the installation greatly. It also had loops to pre-heat your engine, a touch screen control panel, and had 5 zones for the various loops. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Hurricane-Chinook.png) The Chinook also had a much lower power consumption, even when it was running fully, and had two AC elements you could use to supplement heating while on dock power. This seemed like the best solution for my needs based on the fact that it was essentially self contained, more modern, quieter, lower temperature burns, and had on demand hot water built in. The key was making sure I could install it in the space I had, ensure the exhaust run was as short as needed, and that I wasn't being sucked into the "all in one" system that could end up having more problems than a component one. ### Fan Units One of the other things to consider is what fan units to use with the hydronic system. In most cases, people have chosen the REAL units that Sure Marine is famous for, and I was already going down that road as well with my design. They have so many options, sizes, and types, that it makes it easy to get lost in the configuration details. After doing some research in forums and talking with 10 different owners of Hurricane and Webasto systems, I found that almost everyone agreed that the ITR fan heaters were far more efficient at delivering their rated BTU, and the REAL units were less efficient and in many cases more noisy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Fan-heater-comparison.png) This data came from several owners who replaced REAL fan units with ITR units, and found that they ran less and heated areas up much faster, and were more quiet in the long run. There was also one owner who replaced ITR units with REAL units, and noticed the decrease in heating output. I went as far as creating a comparison spreadsheet for two reasons. First, I noticed that the CFM or amount of air that each unit moved was quite a bit different between the REAL and ITR units, with the ITR units generally having around 45-50 CFM more. I also wanted to calculate the total amperage needed for all fan heaters if they were running at the same time. This is an important calculation to include - the amperage used by the boiler/heater and circulation pump will be the largest in the system, but your fan heaters will also consume amp hours. You'll notice that for the REAL fan heaters, there is an "Amp @ 12v" column - this is based on their spec sheet. For the ITR fan heaters, you'll see the same column, which is from their spec sheet, and then "Actual" which is what I recorded while running the fan heaters in a real situation and taking readings using a multimeter. The larger ITR fan heaters are similar in usage to the REAL ones, while the smaller ones take more amperage. Keep in mind this is with the fan heaters on high speed, which I rarely use. I almost always have them running on 50% speed which drops the amperage even more. ## Design ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Heating-Plan-Layout.png) After months of quotes, designs, discussions, and visits, I ended up moving forwards with a design around the ITR Hurricane Chinook. Now came the part I like the most - designing the specific parts of the system & the layout. I spent even more time validating my design with existing customers, other experts in this field, but in particular with Marcello Velenosi at ITR directly. Marcello was a wealth of information, and put up with many emails, diagrams, and questions from me about the system, design, and setup. I highly recommend ITR because of how friendly and helpful Marcello and the rest of the crew there are. ### The Loop One of the interesting things with the Chinook is that in most cases, a single physical hydronic loop is the best setup. You can use additional loops, but you will need external pumps at that point, and a manifold and other bits of equipment. For the size of boat and length of hose I was planning to use, a single loop would work just fine, which in my mind, also simplifies the design. You can see from the above diagram that I have the loop start at the heater (labeled boiler) and go to a fan heater directly above it in the salon. I did this on purpose, as it is the most used space, and makes sense to have the loop go here first, as it's going to be hotter and also quick to start heating when starting from cold. It then goes into the master stateroom, then up to the dinette, v-berth, and then all the way back to the master head, and then back to the boiler. ### Zones ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Thermostat.jpeg) Aube thermostat I decided to have 3 zones - the salon, which included the salon fan heater and dinette, the master stateroom, which included the master stateroom fan heater and master head fan heater, and the v-berth, with it's own fan heater. Each zone had a thermostat placed somewhere central, and allowed for more granular control than the forced air system from before. It is also critical to calculate the number of fan heaters and their expected amperage for each zone and loop. The Chinook has more amperage available on zone 1 than the other zones, so connecting the bigger fan heaters to that zone is important. If you exceed these amperages, the unit will shut down or not function correctly. If you have zones that require more than the system can provide, you can use a relay and higher amperage setup, similar to older style hydronic installs. I put my biggest draw fan heater zone, two large 12,000 BTU heaters for the salon and dinette, on zone 1. ### Fresh Water One of the benefits of this system is to be able to have hot water at any time it is running. However, I wanted to retain my existing AC powered 11 gallon Raritan water heater, mainly because I had replaced it only about a year ago, but also as a backup in case the heater was down for maintenance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Fresh-Water.png) Fresh water system design This required a bit of thought as to how I could plumb the fresh water system through the existing hot water heater, and into the Hurricane Chinook, while getting the benefits of both. Part of the challenge is that the Chinook has a thermostatic mixer inside of it that is designed to regulate the max temp of the hot water to prevent scalding. By having a source of hot water downstream of it (the Raritan hot water tank) it could cause some crazy behavior when it comes to the thermostatic mixer. Thankfully, Jon Fitch, a helpful boater who had the predecessor unit to the Chinook, the Zephyr, saw some of my comments about this and contacted me via email. He provided information on how to bypass the mixer, and what he did to make his system work correctly. The diagram above shows the design I came up with that allows me to have the benefits of both systems while being able to isolate either one using a series of valves. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Fresh-water-handles.jpeg) I created this valve system prior to ordering the Chinook since I was already in the middle of redoing my fresh water system. ### Exhaust The exhaust is one of the most important systems in any hydronic heater, and especially with Hurricane units. I went through many iterations of my design looking for the right spot based on the length of the exhaust. I could go from the unit itself right up into a void in the side of the engine room and out the hull. Other places were too far away, or had the exhaust in areas where I would have to navigate around it during normal engine room checks. ### Piping / Hoses / Clamps This was another interesting area to explore in the design. Many of the newer systems use PEX piping which is very easy to manage and use. However, everyone recommended insulating it when going through colder spaces such as engine rooms and near vents. My initial thoughts were to not use PEX because the piping wasn't insulated. If the point of the system is to create a loop of hot liquid, why would you use something that isn't insulated at all throughout the boat? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Hose-with-burp.jpeg) Many people recommended traditional heating hose which is quite thick and has its own insulating properties, is pretty easy to snake through locations, easily cut to length, and very robust against chafing and the like. The downside is that it is quite heavy, and you can't bend it at sharp angles or you'll pinch the flow. I chose to use hose for my installation. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Hose-clamp.jpeg) Hose clamp The other tech to choose here is how the hoses are attached to the heater and fan heaters. Many people use standard worm-drive style hose clamps, but almost every tech and vendor steered me away from those and to these beefy steel clamps. Because they are like springs, and are extremely tight, they will flex with the hose as it gets hot while the system is on, and cold when it is off. This prevents leaks, which are very common with a standard hose clamp which has a fixed tension. ## Ordering Once I had my design fine tuned thanks to the folks at ITR, I ordered everything heater related from them, and all of my wiring and hardware from Fisheries Supply here in Seattle. ITR has offices in a suburb of Vancouver, Canada, and US offices near Vancouver, WA. Within about 2 weeks, a pallet was on the way. This is one caution if you do decide to do this install yourself - the heater is quite heavy, as is the hose, and all will be packaged on a pallet. This means you may have to deal with a non-standard shipping company that does not have lift gate trucks, or has issues delivering to marinas. I had mine delivered to home, and broke down the pallet on the sidewalk. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BOM.png) Bill of materials for my order I ended up spending about $9500 for the heater components, and about $500 on other supplies including wire, brackets, screws, and exhaust blankets. That made the total around $10,000. As a comparison for hiring someone to do this install, I was given quotes ranging from $15,000 up to $28,000 based on the system (ITR, Webasto, etc.) and complexity. It's important to note that not all heater companies, including ITR, will sell direct to an individual. In many cases they will insist you go through an authorized installer. This is for a number of reasons, including the fact that their installers are trained and will do a better job than someone doing it for their first time, and because you will have a lot of questions or design issues that someone needs to handle. ITR were kind enough to work with me given my background, and I appreciate that greatly. However, if you do not have a good DIY background and some knowledge of electrical and plumbing, doing this sort of install yourself is not recommended. I did find it nearly impossible to find authorized dealers or installers that were willing to call me back. Of the 5 provided by ITR, only two returned my calls, and they weren't interested in the work. While it is hard to find quality vendors for just about anything marine related, this seemed more difficult than it should be. ## Installation Installation of a hydronic system is not for the faint of heart. This was my 3rd installation in the last 20 years on boats I've owned, and it was just as difficult as I remember, although the one-box aspect of the Chinook helped a lot. The biggest challenges were getting the main unit into the boat, and pulling the hose and wiring to the fan heater locations. ### Heater Placement The all-in-one nature of the Chinook is definitely a selling point - you don't have to have separate circulation pumps, header tanks, etc. - but it also can be a limiting factor. The unit itself is 15" high, 16" wide, and 25" deep, so it requires some planning for how you get it aboard, and where it is mounted. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Engine-Room-Layout1.png) I used my favorite diagramming software OmniGraffle and detailed measurements of everything to try a bunch of different layouts. The port side of my engine room, outboard of the port engine, was the best location for the heater. However, it required moving the AC water heater further astern, and eventually removing the generator battery for ease of access into the Chinook's front panel. I laid it out, along with the various connectors on the top of the heater to ensure I had clean paths. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Space.jpeg) Installation area There was quite a bit of usable space for the heater, a great platform that happened to just be the right width for the heater and install brackets, and space behind and in front of it to access things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Heater-inbound.jpeg) Hurricane Chinook in the doorway Getting the heater aboard required two people as it weighs in at 106 pounds. I can usually manhandle an 8D battery myself, which is more than that, but those are a bit less bulky than the Chinook, and are generally going OUT of the boat, as they are being replaced with something more efficient and smaller. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Heater-on-floor.jpeg) The heater also has some pretty sharp corners, so care was needed around the woodwork. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Removing-couch.jpeg) Salon couch removed I rarely involve my husband Josh in any of my projects - he has his specialities and I have mine. However, I needed help this time around because of the weight of the heater. I also made an error when planning for the install, and realized that because of the offset nature of the salon couch hatch and access panel above, I couldn't just lower the heater down through as I had hoped. The salon couch structure would have to be removed in order to make enough room for the heater to be dropped in the hatch. This wood structure was attached to the wall with screws, and likely had not been removed since the boat was built in 1988\. To say Josh was horrified seeing me remove this was an understatement, and a reminder that DIY on boats is not for everyone! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Lowering-in.jpeg) Lowering the unit in Using some lines, we lowered the unit in and forward of the existing Raritan AC water heater. The eventual resting place for the unit was about 2 feet further forwards away from the water heater. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/In-place-1.jpeg) Heater on moveable pad I placed the heater on a pad to allow me to move it around while finding final positioning. In particular, I needed to find the exact perfect spot for the exhaust and air intakes. The exhaust in particular had some rigid stainless steel pieces that would dictate specific positioning. Now it was time to move onto the exhaust system before final mounting of the heater. ### Exhaust & Air Supply The exhaust on any heater is going to be one of the biggest dictating factors for where it is installed. In my case, I was going to run the exhaust across the top of the unit, up through a void in the engine room into a space where I could have the exhaust exit the side of the boat well above the minimum height requirements. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Exhaust-pieces.jpeg) Hurricane Chinook exhaust pieces The one downside to the Hurricane series exhausts is that they are HUGE! I needed to cut a 4" hole in the side of the boat to mount the exhaust fitting. I test fit it and then measured about 99 times before making the hole. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Exhaust.jpeg) It looked really good after I was done - I like the mirrored polish. Keep in mind that this is also the source of combustion air for the unit - the inner circle is the exhaust pipe, and the outer area is where air is pulled into the unit for the burn process. I like this sort of exhaust better than traditional systems because it means you can close up your engine room vents in cold weather, and your heater still has all of the air it needs to run. Wallas does this as well, but most Webasto units use combustion air via a small pipe in the engine room, and outside air from similar vents routed to engine room vents. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Exhaust-muffler-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Air-intake-silencer.jpeg) Exhaust muffler on the left, and air intake muffler on the right ITR recommended I purchase a muffler for both the exhaust and the air intake. They've added these in the last few years, and they're definitely worth the cost. You don't have to have them, but the noise will be quite a bit higher without them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Exhaust-wrapped.jpeg) Exhaust wrapped with high temp fabric One thing that ITR couldn't provide at the time due to shortages was exhaust insulation. I decided to try using something others had recommended which was the same sort of high temperature wrap used on performance car exhausts. Unfortunately it did not work as well as I had hoped, and I had lots of fiberglass bits everywhere during install. It kept the heat down, but not enough for what I wanted where it passes up into the void to the exhaust itself. I ended up getting recommendations from some of the commercial fishermen I know and went to Ballard Insulation, now owned by K. Fox. Insulation. They made a custom set of blankets for the whole exhaust system in just a few days, and it was far better insulation and easier install. ### Mixing Valve ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Mixing-valve-heat-exchanger.jpeg) I mentioned earlier that I needed to mess with the thermostatic mixing valve in the Chinook to be able to use my downstream AC hot water tank. This can be done by removing the top cover and adjusting the grey knob you see in the upper right of this photo. I set it as high as possible, and then backed off just a little bit. I found having it completely maxed out caused the upstream thermostatic mixer to freak out at times and have pulses of cold water. If you're using the Chinook without a downstream AC water heater, you can leave this set to factory settings. ### Control Board & Wiring ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Zone-board-controls.jpeg) Chinook heating system board One of the things I really loved about the install of the Chinook versus other systems is the really slick control board and status light setup. I mounted mine on a piece of starboard and built a block for each zone I intended on using (middle of the picture) plus a fused block for the thermostats (to the right) and a main system fuse for all power to the system. As with every other heater I've installed, and consistent with every manufacturer, you must make sure that the heater has a dedicated circuit, preferably to the house bank, with a fuse or breaker that can't normally be switched off. Switching off a heater when it is in the middle of a burn cycle can have catastrophic results to the heater itself - if it has no power to run cooling fans, and there is still burning diesel, parts of the heater can be damaged, requiring major repairs. I chose the same setup I've used for years which is a covered circuit breaker mounted at the heater itself. I never want this at an electrical panel or other location where someone can accidentally trip it. I really love this control panel - it shows a light for each zone and function, plus all of the connections to the heater, control panel, and other bits are using modular plugs which make it hard to screw up. The lights make it easy to glance at and see a quick status of what the system is doing if you suspect an issue. For all of the wiring, I used appropriate marine grade wire with the appropriate size either recommended by ITR, or calculated based on the length and expected amperage. To each fan heater, I ran wire to provide power, and to each thermostat smaller gauge wire. All wiring went back to the control board. From the control board and heater, 6 AWG wire was used to provide power from the house bank with as short of a run as possible (less than 5 feet). I pulled the wire separately from the hose, but I generally ran the fan heater + thermostat wiring together. ### Hose Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Hose-reel.jpeg) A reel of hose This doesn't look that big, but it was plenty heavy! And because it was still pretty cold outside, it was a bit of a bear to work with. I ended up taking sections inside the boat and warming it up so it was easier to work with. Still, this is the most physically demanding part of the installation - dragging the hose to the various locations. I was lucky because I had completely re-ducted the entire boat as part of the process in the first 2 years of owning her with the forced air systems, so I knew exactly where I could go, and had holes already cut which were much larger than the hose needed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Hose-pliers.jpeg) Knipex hose pliers I used the spring clamps I mentioned earlier in the design, and a pair of Knipex hose pliers to get the clamps on the hose. Heating up the ends of the hose with a heat gun to get them on the fan heaters was helpful. I had two spots to bleed the system - one right above the heater in the salon under the couch where the fan heater was going, and one at the extreme end of the system in the closet where the fan heater was for the v-berth. I must have won the lottery because I bled the system for about 15 seconds while filling it at the v-berth, and have never had to do anything since then. It ran flawlessly from the beginning. This is in sharp contrast to the Webasto systems I had which required a lot of fussing to get things right. ### Fan Heater Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Fan-heater.jpeg) The fan heaters themselves were the most fiddly part of the installation, as you have to pick where they go, cut holes, run wiring, thermostats, and fan controls, and make it look good. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/FH-salon.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/FH-master.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/FH-dinette.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/FH-bathroom.jpeg) Fan heaters being installed The master head and dinette fan heaters were mounted out of the way in hidden locations, and ducting was run from them to specific outlets. For the dinette, it was under the seat pointing towards the galley. For the master head, it was strategically placed to point at the toilet seat 🤣 All of the other fan heaters were directly mounted with grilles in front of them. This provides the least resistance since it does not have to be forced down a duct, and quickest heating as a result. However, the noise is a bit louder than having a duct, as the duct provides some distance from the fans. One other nice note about the ITR fan heaters is that they all have aquastats on the hydronic piping that are connected in-line with the fans. This means that until the coolant reaches the appropriate temperature, the fans won't come on. All of the other systems just turned the fans on when you first turned the main system on, blowing cold air around before the loop got hot enough. I think having the aquastats at the fan heater is a nice feature. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Speed-control-back.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Speed-control-front.jpeg) Speed controls I also purchased speed controls for every fan heater. There are different models for a single fan heater or multiple fan heaters based on amperage. You wire them on the positive lead from the control board zone supply in-line between that and the fan heater itself. 99% of the time, I run all of the fan heaters on the low setting, with the exception of the small master head unit. Very rarely, when the boat is cold and I've been gone (rare!) do I turn them up to high. They're quite a bit louder on that setting, and heat things up amazingly fast. I also had a separate speed control for each fan heater unit, and didn't tie the salon+dinette or master+master head units together, that way I could adjust the speeds and whether a unit was on more granularly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Bedroom-thermostat.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Thermostat-control.jpeg) Aube thermostats in master and v-berth I have been into home automation and control for many years, even before it became popular with the IoT world. Thermostats have been horrific for years, and even today, many of the fancy ones, like the Nest ones I have at land properties, are lacking some features. There are very few good thermostats to choose from for these types of systems. ITR makes their own cheaper one, but it has a very wide temperature swing, something I hate. Aube has made thermostats for all sorts of heaters that I've used in the past, and ITR even recommends one which I chose for my installs. They are nice and compact, and work reasonably well, but still have some faults. There is a day and night temperature, which is nice for a quick button push, but no scheduling or time based temperatures. Also, two of the thermostats have gotten "stuck" in heating mode and ran continuously until I removed the batteries and put them back in. This has happened 3-4 times, but it is still annoying. Other than that, they are mostly reliable, have a dead band of 1 degree on either side of the set temp, which is nice for keeping things nice and consistent. As a comparison, some of the older Webasto and cheaper thermostats have a 6-8 degree variance which means you get really cold, and then really hot. ### Fuel Installation I already had a fuel line for my existing heater, and it was the appropriate size, so I was able to add an in-line fuel filter provided by ITR and connect it to the heater. None of the previous heaters required a fuel return, but the Chinook does. This initially was a concern, as running a pipe from the heater back to the fuel tank, drilling a new return, and ensuring it was within the max length for the heater was looking like a big job. However, I was able to add a tee into the fuel return manifold for the existing lines, and tapped in that way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Bad-connectors-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Bad-connectors-2.jpeg) Amazon on the left, Sure on the right One of the things I also ran across is the quality of fittings from unknown vendors on Amazon versus local places like Sure, Fisheries, or even Nebar. In the above pictures, the fitting on the left is from an Amazon vendor that claimed it was brass, and more importantly, a specific size (I forget what it was). The one on the right is from Sure Marine, same size. You can see that the one from Amazon is clearly not brass, and the inside diameter is quite a bit smaller than the one from Sure Marine. Beware cheap crap off of Amazon! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Piping-installed-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/system-installed.jpeg) Final install Once all of the hose was run, fan heaters were installed, wiring was pulled, exhaust and fresh air pipes mounted, the heater was screwed down and everything was tested through ITR's extensive startup checklist. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/transfer-fluid.jpeg) ITR recommends specific transfer fluid (aka coolant) to be used in their system. I ordered mine through Amazon a week or so before the unit was delivered. Part of the startup is filling the system, bleeding it, and ensuring the overflow tank is filled as well. I mounted my overflow tank to the side of the heater for ease of filling and maintenance. ## Everyday Use I've used the system now for a year, and am very pleased with it. Not only has it kept me warm during cold days, but it has provided hot water daily during the summer months as well without a single hiccup. I have over 700 hours on the system so far, and have used it for hot water while at anchor for over 150 days. We had decently cold weather for the remainder of the spring, and we're now into winter again here in the Seattle area, and the system is on 24x7 providing heat to the boat. The system appears to be well designed in terms of capacity and features. I have tried cooling the boat down to 40 degrees and running the system to get it to 64 degrees, and it is amazingly fast at doing so - about 20 minutes or so with the fan heaters on high. During cold weather, the fan heaters turn on and off every so often, and the main unit goes on every 15 minutes or so to keep the loop warm. Compared to other systems I've had, this is far less than I remember recording - the Webasto would go on more frequently, and the Wallas of course runs 24x7. The boat is never really cold now, which I absolutely love. But my favorite feature by far is the essentially endless hot water. 1.5GPM doesn't sound like much, but that's at 120 degrees F. Average shower temp is 105 degrees, so you'll be mixing that 120F water with cold water which means there is plenty of capacity. I've run the shower while testing for almost 20 minutes - the only blip is around 6 or 7 minutes when the heater initial capacity is exhausted and it has to kick in to make more water. That lasts about 2 seconds and then is gone. ### Electric Elements One of the features of the Chinook is the two AC elements that you can wire up to provide additional heat, or to use the unit without the diesel burner. I tried this temporarily for a few days and found it to not be worth the effort. It is two 1500W elements, or 10,000 BTU. If you have a system that is near the edge of 50,000 BTU, I can see how this might be useful when at the dock, but that is also a concern if you have designed your system to be right up on the edge of the capacity of the unit. I had hoped you could use these elements to heat hot water or run most of the unit at a lower power while on AC power, and turn off the diesel burner part, but it just isn't practical. 10,000 BTU isn't enough to heat the whole boat, and it takes too long to heat up water this way. If you think about your traditional hot water tank, like my Raritan, it's a 1500W system, and takes at least an hour to heat up 11 gallons. ### Control Panel and App ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Display1.jpeg) Touch screen display The touch screen is really easy to use with big ON and OFF buttons for diesel heat. In the winter, it was on most of the time and kept the boat warm even when I was away. In the summer it was also on a lot of the time to provide hot water. I disabled the engine pre-heat feature, so that doesn't show up, but you can't disable the AC element electric heat, so that is still showing, even though it is not connected. Configuring the panel is pretty simple, and in fact, you don't really have to do much with it out of the box if you're OK with all options showing up. I decided to configure WiFi access as well, which allows you to use an app on a mobile device. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/App.jpeg) Mobile app This allows you to control the power via your phone from anywhere. Most of the time, I would use it in the morning from my bed to turn on the heater for hot water in the summer. I couldn't be bothered to get out of the warm bed and walk 5 feet to the panel! I've also used it remotely a few times to turn things off and on. ### Exhaust Noise The exhaust noise is very low compared to the Webasto units I've had. The initial startup noise is sometimes distracting, but once it is burning fully, it sounds like an angry clothes dryer. ## Conclusions ### Pros - Highly reliable, quiet heat with plenty of capacity - Instant hot water is amazing, even in the summer - Self contained, single unit with auto summer loop - Touch screen controls, remote app, easy to use thermostats and fan controls ### Cons - Installation can be finicky, especially the exhaust - learn from an installation technician or pay to have it done - Electric AC elements not worth wiring up - The Aube thermostats are way better than the other choice, but still suck. I would highly recommend ITR's Hurricane Chinook for a boat between 40-50' that desires a compact hydronic system with extra features like instant hot water and engine pre-heat. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 41 comments deregtd@deregtd December 27, 2021 Awesome writeup! I’m trying to figure out what to do for a full hydronic heat pump + diesel heat solution for our power cat. I originally contacted Webasto directly and had two guys come out and measure a bunch of stuff while we were on Lake Michigan, but they’ve been working on a full quote for 3 months now, and the initial rough one was riddled with mistakes and didn’t include diesel heat. So I’m considering doing this myself, exactly as you did. Did you ever look at a fully integrated heat pump + diesel solution? I realize that there’s probably not a lot of need for A/C even in your warmest summer cruising up there, but figured I had to ask. The webasto air handlers are also an order of magnitude more expensive than all of the units you looked at for this article, which is annoying. But maybe you need that to support both cold and heat or something… Still in pretty early exploration here, but your article supports my theory that I could completely do this myself, especially if I slowly add air handlers over the year as I have time to plumb things one by one, and eventually fully replace my existing triple heat pump system that came with the boat… mgfite98034@mgfite98034 December 27, 2021 Thx for another well researched topic and fantastically detailed write-up. Very timely too, with temp at 19F at the hovel this morning, and for a friend who is outfitting an expedition sailboat. \-Mic Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 December 27, 2021 deregtd: > Did you ever look at a fully integrated heat pump + diesel solution? I realize that there’s probably not a lot of need for A/C even in your warmest summer cruising up there, but figured I had to ask. I have looked at these in the past, but I did not for Rendezvous mainly because of complexity and cost. There aren’t as many solutions out there that can do both, which further limits your choices. I like combining things when they make sense, but it seems this industry hasn’t really gotten there yet. I was even worried about combining heat + hot water with the Chinook as some of the earlier models from ITR and others had issues from trying to do too much in a single solution. I also think for redundancy it might be nice to have separate reverse cycle and diesel heating systems. I’ve seen plenty of boats that have had shared ducting for the air delivery side, so you could at least limit things on that front. But ultimately you’d have a reverse cycle system and associated handlers and water loop, and then a diesel system as well. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 December 27, 2021 mgfite98034: > Very timely too, with temp at 19F at the hovel this morning, and for a friend who is outfitting an expedition sailboat. Aha! Good timing for sure! Outside air temp on Rendezvous got down to 23F last night with a wind chill of 17F. [![2021-12-27_10-33-13](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/85cda2aaf298058ec45b88238f3c231ab161f1d2.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/85cda2aaf298058ec45b88238f3c231ab161f1d2.png?ref=seabits.com "2021-12-27_10-33-13") deregtd@deregtd↩ #5 December 27, 2021 In a perfect world I’d definitely like to do this, but I have the very first world problem of our boat having too many rooms, all of which want both A/C and heat and really do use both sets of things in the current system regularly with our great loop boating – and given that we want to take this boat back to the northwest to do Alaska several times once Starlink is available, the heat will be a super important part of that system. We’re feeding air to 5 different major areas (2 bedrooms, office, the main living area, and the skylounge/helm), with 2 associated sub-areas (bathrooms) that can be linked to their associated bedrooms and just closed at the vent if applicable. So doing a second fully parallel system would require 14-18 air handlers instead of 7-9\. Richard\_Gard@Richard\_Gard December 27, 2021 I’m not installing any heating systems this year or next, but I still enjoyed your article immensely, Steve. Rendezvous looks to be like-new condition and should sell quickly. fair seas amid the snow! Rick Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 December 27, 2021 deregtd: > So doing a second fully parallel system would require 14-18 air handlers instead of 7-9\. I think that is the challenge where you need both head and A/C in lots of spaces. I’ve only seen a few integrated systems, like the Webasto BlueCool, that do both, and they’re very expensive and proprietary to the point of being a single point of failure. Sounds like a fun project! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 December 27, 2021 Richard\_Gard: > I’m not installing any heating systems this year or next, but I still enjoyed your article immensely, Steve. > Rendezvous looks to be like-new condition and should sell quickly. Thanks for the kind words! I’m very confident that Rendezvous will find a fantastic new home! bkcorwin@bkcorwin↩ #7 December 28, 2021 I’m curious what you find. I am in a considering a pretty similar sounding situation. Boat with existing cruisair tempered water system with 7 technicold air handlers and want to add a diesel boiler of some kind to the loop to allow heating without the large electrical demand of the reverse cycle. TBH, I have found very little on the internet about anyone adding a boiler to an existing system. Have you found any references to this being done? I’m sure it must be a thing, and I probably need to just ring up sure marine or other vendors. Mentally, it makes a lot of sense to me, but there are some technical challenges about how you interface the systems without them colliding. deregtd@deregtd↩ #11 December 28, 2021 The Webasto manual describes it in pretty good detail, but obviously relies on being a single-make integrated system – [https://www.webasto-comfort.com/fileadmin/webasto\_\_media/webasto-comfort.com/INT/Documents/083\_StH\_\_KAT\_Marine\_ENG\_Einzelseiten.pdf](https://www.webasto-comfort.com/fileadmin/webasto%5F%5Fmedia/webasto-comfort.com/INT/Documents/083%5FStH%5F%5FKAT%5FMarine%5FENG%5FEinzelseiten.pdf?ref=seabits.com) I haven’t seen anything else out there than the Webasto system, unfortunately. Wyatt@Wyatt December 28, 2021 Great writeup. We’ve been running this exact system on Turtle for the past two winters and it works great. Two things we’ve observed. 1) the system placement matters. We have it just behind the midship stateroom and it’s actually fairly loud. 2) the touchscreen occasionally (every few months) becomes unresponsive and the only way to bring it back is to cycle the power (by either resetting the system breaker or unscrewing the screen to unplug and replug it). ITR sent me a replacement unit and the new one does the same thing. You can still manage the system with the app, but not from the touchscreen, until a reset. The unlimited hot water is amazing. We just spent a frigid Christmas week at dock with 50A power and found that the AC elements reduced the diesel cycles by maybe 50%, which was really nice over the cold nights, given how loud ours is. Over all, the system is a vast improvement over forced air. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #13 December 28, 2021 Wyatt: > 1. the touchscreen occasionally (every few months) becomes unresponsive and the only way to bring it back is to cycle the power (by either resetting the system breaker or unscrewing the screen to unplug and replug it). ITR sent me a replacement unit and the new one does the same thing. You can still manage the system with the app, but not from the touchscreen, until a reset. I totally forgot about this! Mine has done this 2 times, and both times I unplugged the screen and plugged it back in, and everything started working again. I contacted ITR but never heard back from them as to their thoughts. Sounds like it is something funky going on! Glad you have had good results with your system! Kevin McLaughlin@WallaceGrommet December 28, 2021 Happy Heaterdays! Quite a write-up in rich detail. I am about to replace the water supply piping on my boat but am favoring using Pex-A, the expansion type tubing. It’s the most flexible of the Pex family, and has less flow reduction from fittings, and it’s easy enough to insulate on the hot water side. Did the need to use special tools and fittings play a big part in your decision to use rubber water hose? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #15 December 29, 2021 Nope, not really. I replaced almost all of of my water system throughout the boat with PEX a few months before this project. I have all of the tools for that too. mijmoto@mijmoto December 29, 2021 Hi Steve, Thanks for the great write up. I installed a Chinook in my boat last February and like you chose heavy duty thick wall 3/4" hose. Easy to run, connect and reconnect. I used screw clamps but will consider the spring clamps which are commonly used with Onix hose in residential and commercial hydronic systems. I haven’t connected the hot water yet as I was considering how to link the existing 20 gallon Raritan electric tank to the Chinook. Does your Chinook heat the contents of your traditional tank? I assume that your engine still heats the existing tank. Can you elaborate on your setup? Thanks Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #17 December 29, 2021 I think the ITR manual has a section on the hot water side as it’s a bit different than traditional hydronic setups. Older setups used the in/out coolant ports on normal hot water tanks, like your Raritan, and circulated hydronic coolant through those to heat the hot water. It takes quite a while if the tank is cold. The Chinook has its own heat exchanger inside the unit dedicated to providing what they call domestic hot water. If the unit is on, it essentially provides instant hot water by running cold water through that exchanger, and bringing the temperature up to about 120F. In my article, I talked about how I built a series of valves to allow for me to use my existing Raritan hot water heater and run things through the Chinook. I think there is a diagram too that shows the piping. Essentially, the Raritan is “down stream” from the Chinook, and you have to disable or change the thermostatic mixer in the Chinook in order to use both in-line. You could also do this where you have multiple sources into a manifold but I think that the end result of what I’ve done is about the same. My engine(s) were not plumbed to the hot water tank, so this is one of the reasons I wanted the Chinook to heat water while away from the dock. The only other way was to run the generator and then turn on the Raritan AC hot water tank, which would take 30-40 minutes to heat up. Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert January 04, 2022 I just started my installation of this exact system on my 49’ DeFever RPH. Thanks for the detailed write up. I’m using a combination of PEX (expansion fittings with the Milwaukee tool) and heater hose. Right now I’m trying to decide if it would be acceptable to run pex up the columns between the pilot house windshield and the flybridge. There’s a lot of wiring running up these columns in a tight spot so heat from the loop would be a concern. There’s no other good option top get heat to the flybridge so I’ll just do without if need be. I like your setup for the wiring next to the control board and id like to copy it but what is the part number for the block you used for the thermostat wiring? Steve Mitchell@steve January 04, 2022 It’s from BlueSea, part number 5045 [https://www.bluesea.com/products/5045/ST\_Blade\_Compact\_Fuse\_Blocks\_-\_4\_Circuits](https://www.bluesea.com/products/5045/ST%5FBlade%5FCompact%5FFuse%5FBlocks%5F-%5F4%5FCircuits?ref=seabits.com) Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert↩ #20 January 05, 2022 Thanks. Found the one that will work for my application. Also, would you mind sharing a more detailed look at your final wiring at the control board? Steve Mitchell@steve January 05, 2022 I couldn’t find a more detailed photo in my library. Any particular part you were interested in? I can try to take some photos later tomorrow. bkcorwin@bkcorwin↩ #12 January 06, 2022 On [Kensblog.com](http://kensblog.com/?ref=seabits.com) [Equipment - Welcome to KensBlog](https://www.kensblog.com/equipment/?ref=seabits.com) he describes his kabola interface with his chilled water system. Specifically he has this diagram [https://www.kensblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/tempered\_water\_interface\_gb-70-1.jpg](https://www.kensblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/tempered%5Fwater%5Finterface%5Fgb-70-1.jpg?ref=seabits.com). You can see that instead of putting the boiler directly in the main tempered water loop it has a separate loop that heats the main loop via heat exchanger. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #23 January 07, 2022 That’s a pretty typical hydronic install. The Chinook has a separate heat exchanger built into it to do just this, separated from the one that does the hydronic side. Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert↩ #22 January 16, 2022 Sorry, missed your response. Might have to look to see if there’s a notification setting for the messages. Anyway, just looking to do a clean install and I liked how you have the control panel and wiring set up. I’m running the supply lines right now and hope to set the heater in place soon so I’m measuring out distances and layouts for the best options. Any additional pics might be helpful and would be appreciated. Thanks. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #25 January 16, 2022 Hi Phil, I haven’t been back to the boat since the last message, and am trying to bring the new boat back home, so I might not get a picture for at least another week. Notification settings can be found by clicking your picture icon in the upper right, clicking on the person icon, then Preferences, then Emails. By default I think it sends you email if someone replies to one of your messages directly, but you might have been able to turn that off when signing up. Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert↩ #26 January 18, 2022 Sounds good. The new boat looks nice, BTW. Looking forward to your future write ups on it. Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert January 29, 2022 I’m at the point where I’m running the wiring for the thermostats. However, the wiring diagram is a little confusing and I’m trying to figure out how to wire them up. The manual lists each zone as a colored lead but doesn’t say how the lead is wired to the thermostat or whether or not they should be fused. Any help you might offer on this would be appreciated. Thanks Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #28 January 30, 2022 I wasn’t able to take any further photos before the boat went to the new owners, unfortunately. Page 6-5 of the Hurricane Chinook installation manual talks about the wiring for the thermostats. You need a 12v DC source that has a 1 amp fuse going to the thermostat. The return from the thermostat then goes to the appropriate zone wire for that particular zone. Many heaters are set up this way where the thermostat energizes a 12v circuit back to the zone board or control system to indicate when heat is required. Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert↩ #29 January 30, 2022 I think I was just overthinking it. That makes perfect sense now that I run it through my head. For some reason I was thinking that the thermostat had to be grounded as well. But, hey, one less wire to pull is great news in my book. I can’t believe how much wire I’ve already run for this project. I’m just happy that Fisheries is a pretty simple ferry ride away…… Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert↩ #29 March 06, 2022 Hi Steve. I’m just finishing up the details on my install and I’m not at all happy with the cheap thermostats. I picked up one of the Aube thermostats that you installed but I’m confused to how that one is wired up. Any chance you could help me out with how to get it working? Thanks Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #31 March 07, 2022 Hmmmm I don’t know that there would be any different wiring for the Aube than the standard ones that everyone uses. It’s essentially two wires, one positive (with the fuse that I had taken a picture of in the article) coming in to the thermostat, and a return going back to the zone that you want to activate. The Aube also require batteries, but most of them do that aren’t the super old mercury ones. Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert↩ #32 March 07, 2022 That’s what I was thinking so maybe I’ve got a bad one. It won’t call for heat and doesn’t allow me to change the temperature after I put the cover back on the unit. I’ll pick up another one and see if I run into the same issue. My other thermostats all work. The only problem I’m running into now is that zones 3 and 4 won’t kick on the circulating pump unless zone 1 or 2 is actively calling for heat. I’ve set the jumper as per the instructions but still not having any luck. When those zones call for heat I get the green lights on the control board and voltage out to the fans but the loop isn’t circulating. Waiting on a call back from ITR to see if they have a solution. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #33 March 08, 2022 Do you hear a click and see the little wavy lines on the display when the thermostat calls for heat? Make sure you are connecting the wires to the covered contact points under the top center portion of the thermostat. I saw someone connect the wires to the telephone / remote activation contact points which won’t work. Phil\_Probert@Phil\_Probert March 08, 2022 There is no indication at all that it’s calling for heat. I’m confident that it’s wired correctly and I’ve checked it with one of the analog thermostats. Works fine that way. I’m pretty confident now that it’s a bad unit. I have another one on the way that I’ll try out. Wyatt@Wyatt↩ #14 September 05, 2022 Quick question. Our unit has an automatic summer loop (there’s no physical valve) and we’ve noticed when we run the water that the main cabin fan turns off. Does the same thing happen with your unit? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #36 September 05, 2022 I ended up selling Rendezvous in December of 2021 which is where my Hurricane unit was installed, but I do not remember the main cabin fan going off when I ran the water at all. I used the water heating function all the time in the unit… Derick Clack@Derick\_Clack April 08, 2024 Wow, what an excellent post. I have a question regarding the “Summer Valve” and how it bypasses the heating fans. I assum that you have to close the loops going to the fans and then open the summer valve. My question that that will bypass the expansion tank! Do you not need the expansion tank in the summer loop? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #38 April 08, 2024 Hi [@Derick\_Clack](https://seabits.com/u/derick%5Fclack), The summer loop is automatic with this system. You don’t have to close any valves or loops going to other places. Most of the other hydronic systems I’ve worked on or had on my own boats, including the one I have on Aruna, have manual valves that you have to close to the various loops to prevent circulating the coolant around the boat in the summer. There is no expansion tank in this system. It is essentially built into the main unit, so you don’t have to do anything with the summer loop regarding the expansion tank. Derick Clack@Derick\_Clack↩ #39 April 08, 2024 Hi Steve. Thanks for responding so quickly. So my question is what is the summer valve in the picture for? How does the water not circulate to the the rest of the boat during summer? Derick Clack@Derick\_Clack↩ #40 April 08, 2024 [@steve](https://seabits.com/u/steve) Ignore that, I see that the expansion tank was in the diagram from Sure Marine and you did not go for that design. My hydronic system is already installed and it is a single loop with the exception of valves used to direct a loop to a Torrid how water heater. So my issue is is that it seems like I will need to reposition my expansion tank so that it is always in any part of the system and currently it is not . Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #41 April 10, 2024 Aha, I wondered which diagram or item you were looking at. Glad that was cleared up. Having the expansion tank in the summer loop as well is going to be important, but you could also add in a smaller tank just for the summer loop if that is easier. One of my other boats had two expansion tanks - one near the heater and in the summer loop, and one high up and meant for the full loop. Derick Clack@Derick\_Clack April 10, 2024 Aaah, I was wondering about a second expansion tank. So does the extra tank have to be higher than the summer loop? My loop is currently attached to the bottom of the saloon floor and will run down to the hot water tank. I don’t really have anywhere else to place the expansion tank higher. I assume that if I have a summer loop expansion tank and if its lower than my full loop tank, I will need a way to close it off so I don’t have two tanks in the full loop. Thanks for help btw, greatly appreciate it. ### Rendezvous is for sale! URL: https://seabits.com/rendezvous-is-for-sale/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:49:55.000Z You read that right! After 3+ years of wonderful memories and amazing projects, I've decided to move on to a bigger boat with features that match my cruising style a bit more. I love Rendezvous, and have spent countless hours on things like [upgrading my battery bank to LiFePO4](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/), a new [fresh water system and toilets](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/), and other things like [docking and engine room cameras](https://seabits.com/docking-and-engine-room-cameras/), and will miss a lot of those conveniences. But I also look forward to new challenges on a new boat! 🛥️ If you're interested in [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), she is listed with friend and broker Matt Maynard at [Irwin Yacht Sales](https://www.irwinyachtsales.com/boats-for-sale/1988-ocean-alexander-42-cpmy-seattle-washington-8160929/?ref=seabits.com). I've trusted him to navigate the process of buying and selling boats for a number of years, and I am sure he would love to hear from you. [See Rendezvous Listing](https://www.irwinyachtsales.com/boats-for-sale/1988-ocean-alexander-42-cpmy-seattle-washington-8160929/?ref=seabits.com) If you're curious about her and have more questions, please feel free to [contact me](https://seabits.com/contact/). I'm always happy to chat about the boat, systems and projects. Here are a few things that come with or are part of Rendezvous sale. The full list is in the listing above: - **Operations Manual** \- I've written an extensive manual on how to use all of her systems. This includes startup and shutdown processes for engines, generator, electrical system, watermaker, and more. - **Internet system** \- Peplink MAX HD2 router with 2x cellular modems, 2x Poynting OMNI-402 cellular antennas, 2x Poynting OMNI-496 WiFI antennas, and an indoor Peplink AP One access point. This system is ready for dual cellular + WiFi access throughout the entire boat. - **Electrical system** \- 800 amp hours of LiFePO4 batteries, 2x 175 AMP alternators with Wakespeed regulators, 3000W Victron inverter, and an additional 70 amp charger while using the generator to charge. This system is built to run the boat 24-36 hours without charging, and to charge back up in 2 hours or less. - **Heating system** \- new ITR Hurricane Chinook hydronic heater with 3 zones and 5 fan heaters throughout all cabins. It also provides instant hot water 24x7 (even in the summer) and is quiet and efficient. - **Systems in general** \- I've used this boat every day for 3+ years and have fine tuned all of the systems to be as reliable as possible. This includes little things like removing the horrific shower sump that we're all used to, and replacing it with a Whale Gulper pump, or by adding UV filtered drinking water, or push button toilet controls. The systems have been used and maintained, and tweaked to be comfortable and reliable. - **Training** \- I would be happy to spend an hour or a day taking a new owner through all of the systems, going out for a cruise, and whatever else helps them get used to Rendezvous. There are a number of things I've written about that **won't** come with her, and that is because those systems are either very complex, and would be difficult for a new owner to maintain (no one needs 5 remote monitoring systems on a boat!), or they were systems that I have to continue testing with in some way. Those items have been removed, but what is still aboard is considerable and will serve someone well into the future. ## Why Sell? The biggest reason I am selling Rendezvous is because of the change in my cruising plans. In the last 6 years, I spent a considerable amount of time away from the home port and underway. In 2020 even with the Canadian border closed, I was at anchor for 175 days, and away from the home port more than 200\. In 2021 I have similar stats, and lots of time out in crappy weather. This means a lot more time underway, at anchor, and using the boat while out and about. There were three main areas that I wanted to improve because of this change - the driving location/setup, layout, and stability underway. ### Pilothouse When I first started looking in 2018 for something in the power world, my requirements included a good flybridge driving station, among other things. I even mentioned that in my Sailing towards power article below. ![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png) I love the flybridge on Rendezvous, but since I cruise year round that can be an added complexity. What was more of a challenge was visibility in poor weather and moving back and forth. Visibility was a challenge with rain, although not too bad. I looked at adding a wiper to the flybridge, but that would have reduced the ability to open the front middle panel of the canvas/glass which we did a lot in the summer for ventilation. The bigger challenge for visibility in the flybridge was mist and condensation. In fall and winter around here, everything mists up overnight, and it was very time consuming to have to clean everything, if you could even do that, before getting underway in the mornings. In addition, moving back and forth between the flybridge, down 3 steps, and then around the back deck, down 4 more steps into the cabin, wasn't really safe in some of the sea conditions I was in - keep in mind that I am alone most of my time on the water. Not only would a pilothouse be better for year round cruising in the PNW, but it has a whole heck of a lot more space for electronics and the sort of things I want to build and showcase. I knew this when I bought Rendezvous, but I thought that I would be OK with her layout and setup for the longer term. To be clear, the salon driving station isn't unusable - I use it a lot in the winter and rainy seasons (no jokes about Seattle weather!) and even in the summer, I usually spend about 25% of my time driving from there. It's a great spot to stand right in the middle of the boat to see where you're going - sitting all day in the flybridge isn't the greatest for my back health. I also added newer windshield wipers and motors when I bought Rendezvous, so in crappy weather it is one of my primary spots to drive from. But of course the visibility is better on the flybridge. ### Stability Rendezvous is 46' LOA, and almost a 14 foot beam and weighs in at 31,000 pounds when fully fueled and loaded with all of my junk. Underway at normal cruising speeds of 9-11 knots she is very stable. At slower trawler speeds she is OK, but if you're in nasty weather with the seas beam-on, you definitely have to go faster to keep things more stable. Because I cruise year round, I end up seeing more weather, waves, and situations than an average recreational boater. I am also very, very prone to getting seasick - I have been my whole life, and have written about things like the [ReliefBand](https://seabits.com/conquer-seasickness-with-a-reliefband/) and other methods that help me. I have always wanted a boat with stabilization while underway, and I miss some of the stability that came from a sailboat while at anchor. Trying to add stabilizers to Rendezvous would have been expensive, and there just isn't the space or structure for them. Seriously, I get sick very easily, so trying to find a boat with some sort of stabilization was high on my list. ### Space The layout on Rendezvous is really good, but I wanted to tweak it. The back deck was one of our favorite spots in the summer, but barely gets used in the winter, so having a more covered cockpit / flybridge / back deck was pretty important in a new boat. In addition, having less or zero steps from when you step aboard into the living and driving spaces was really important. Since I am on the boat single handing most of the time, having to go up and down lots of steps to and from places was less desirable. ## What's Next? I'm not ready to reveal all of the details yet, but I have found a new boat and am in the purchase process. It has all of the stuff above plus more, and I'm very excited to start the next chapter of my boating life. The new boat does have a pilot house, better access to various spaces underway, and lots more space for electronics, electrical projects, and of course, internet connectivity and testing. As soon as I get past the superstitious stage, and have things finalized, I will definitely share more details! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 8 comments Jake\_Brownson@Jake\_Brownson December 16, 2021 Congrats on the new boat, looking forward to the reveal Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 December 16, 2021 Thanks [@Jake\_Brownson](https://seabits.com/u/jake%5Fbrownson). I’m very excited, and can’t wait to share the details Bruce Keith@svneverforever December 16, 2021 A long, long way from Grace! I look forward to hearing about the new boat. And btw, thanks for all the work you do…I hope you manage to get some renumeration for the amount of time and effort you put into the site. Bruce Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 December 16, 2021 It is quite a bit different than all of the sailboats from the last 15 years or so! John\_Burleigh@John\_Burleigh December 28, 2021 Congratulations! My guess is a Tollycraft 61’. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 December 29, 2021 Good guess, but no! I do have two friends who just bought 57 wide body Tollycraft which are absolutely amazing. They helped push the decision along that a bigger boat was in my future! PY@Paul\_Young January 02, 2022 Sounds like the specs for an FPB. Lots of YT videos. Steve Mitchell@steve February 05, 2022 Thought I would mention here that Rendezvous sold about a week ago, and went off to her new owners! Super happy that a loving family will be enjoying and taking care of her going forwards! ### Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G initial impressions URL: https://seabits.com/peplink-max-br1-pro-5g-first-impressions/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:34:51.000Z The Peplink BR1 series of routers have been around many years and have provided a cost-effective way of adding internet connectivity aboard. They were always very simple and straightforward with minimal ports, and for a long time, only one WiFi band. The [MAX BR1 Pro 5G](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-MAX-BR1-Pro-5G-Router%5Fp%5F34.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) is well beyond those older models and has a number of improvements. I've been using mine for a couple of months, and these are my initial impressions. 🛒 I write about technology that I test myself, and would recommend to a friend or customer. I often link to a retail partner that I trust, and may make an affiliate commission if you use those links. This helps support the site and my testing. ## General Overview ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-box.jpeg) The MAX BR1 Pro 5G is almost nothing like the older versions. It has a new CPU, two LAN ports instead of one, and can operate both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz WiFi. Not only that, the CPU itself rivals just about anything else in the MAX line and the WiFi radio supports one of the more modern standards - WiFi 6\. You can find the [datasheet here](https://download.peplink.com/resources/pepwave%5Fbr1%5Fpro%5F5g%5Fdatasheet.pdf?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-antenna-ports.jpeg) Here are some of the highlights: - 5G modem with redundant SIM slots - this modem supports both 5G and CAT-20 LTE. - 10/100/1000/2500M Ethernet WAN port - 2x 10/100/1000M Ethernet LAN ports - Simultaneous Dual-Band (2.4GHz / 5GHz) Wi-Fi 6, 2X2 MU-MIMO Wi-Fi, WAN and/or AP ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-top.jpeg) Because it is a CAT-20/5G radio, you'll find that it has 4 cellular antenna ports and a GPS antenna port as well. The unit itself is bigger than the older BR1 and bigger than the MAX Transit series too. It's much wider, and feels about 2x the weight. The spec sheet claims power consumption from 8W-19W, and I saw somewhere in the middle of that during most of my testing. The MK2 version of the original BR1 has a max power usage of 16W, and I've tested that one for a long time and seen about half that, so the new BR1 Pro 5G definitely uses more power. However, you're getting a much newer radio, more ports, etc. with the newer version. The BR1 series was very popular on sailboats for a long time due to its compact size and low power requirements, so just be aware that it is a bit higher on the power consumption curve. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-antennas-1.jpeg) The antennas are in the bottom of the box and look very nice and orderly. You get two WiFi antennas (the two on the left) and four cellular antennas. There is also a GPS antenna further up in the box. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-power-connector.jpeg) One of the annoying things is that Peplink moved to a plastic clip-in power plug with this model. You get a wall wart power supply, but to wire it in to a boat, you either have to cut that cable, or order a separate part that does not come with the product. Given that the intent is for this product to be used mostly in mobile situations, it would have been nice had Peplink simply included that cable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-dashboard.png) One of the nice things to see is that WiFi as WAN has two discrete items on the dashboard - one for each WiFI frequency. In some of the other recent Peplink products and firmware, there is only one entry, so you don't really know what frequency is being used. Having both gives you some redundancy as well - you can be connected to two different networks, or even the same one, but independently. The dashboard itself looks slightly different than other versions of Peplink products in subtle ways. The drag controls for the various internet sources have three little horizontal lines, and the entire element has rounded corners. This could be just coincidental, but I don't see why they'd change it for this particular product unless maybe a refresh of that part of the UI is coming? ## Cost The MAX BR1 Pro 5G is $800 more than the old MAX BR1 MK2, which is quite a steep increase. However, I don't think you can really compare the two since the BR1 Pro 5G really seems like an update to the MAX Transit line instead of a newer BR1\. The older BR1s had limited ports, very low performance, and only could broadcast on one of the two WiFi bands. The new BR1 is faster, supports 5G, has more capabilities and ports, and arguably should have just been named the MAX Transit 5G instead of the update they did to that platform which was....not great. The MAX Br1 Pro 5G is about $300-400 more than the MAX Transit 5G, and in my opinion is worth that price given not only the performance and features, but the fact that all tech in this area is getting more and more expensive and hard to get due to supply chain challenges. ## Performance > The BR1 is one of the fastest devices I've ever tested, and definitely the fastest Peplink device I've ever seen. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-5G.png) Performance has been excellent whether I was using 5G or 4G. I have been very impressed all around not just with uploads and downloads, but the management web interface is always snappy and fast, and the modem connects to more bands more readily than CAT-18 devices I have on board for testing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-performance-downloads.png) When connected to a good 5G signal, which is still pretty hard to find from a boat, the BR1 is one of the fastest devices I've ever tested, and definitely the fastest Peplink device I've ever seen. Above you can see the performance using T-Mobile. In the Seattle/Puget Sound area, the best performance I saw was consistently from T-Mobile, and decent performance from Verizon. AT&T's 5G coverage is spotty at best, and I never saw anything more than 4G LTE performance with their network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-plugged-in.jpeg) In a lot of cases, I saw performance on 4G that I had never seen on any other MAX Transit or BR1 platform. I attribute this directly to the new, much faster CPU in the BR1 Pro 5G. This is an important point - if you're looking at the BR1 just for the 5G support, that's definitely a good use case, but in my testing, it outperformed all of the other MAX Transit products I test with on 4G LTE as well. I believe that those products, in particular the CAT18 series, were CPU limited when it came to 4G LTE in many situations, and that the BR1 overcomes those limitations. That's disappointing to figure out on one hand - it would have been nice for Peplink to actually put the necessary CPU behind those platforms - but it is also good to see that you can get better performance with the BR1. ## Challenges **5G** \- 5G support is still difficult to find from the boat unless you are in very developed areas. Even with 5G connectivity, there have been plenty of times where it is just as fast as 4G LTE or in some cases, slower. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Connected-but-no-info-details.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/Connected-but-no-info.png) **Status Displays** \- Displays for connectivity (LTE, LTE-A, 5G) are unreliable. Sometimes it shows the band you're connected to, while other times it just says "Connected to " and nothing else. This is most likely a bug. **WiFi as WAN performance** \- this was terrible in the initial firmware. It has been fixed in a new firmware you can request from support, but it doesn't come shipped with this firmware. It would be good for Peplink to get a released, public firmware out with this in it. In general this is typical of other Peplink releases where software / firmware needs to be tweaked for it to be fully reliable and compatible. ## Recommendation If you are in the market for a fast router with a single modem, the MAX BR1 Pro 5G is the best available from Peplink right now for both 5G and 4G LTE. Excellent performance, support for as many bands as possible, more ports, and updated WiFi support. The firmware bugs will be fixed, and other than the annoying power cable requirement, it is an excellent router that makes the MAX Transit and other products look very slow and outdated, even for 4G LTE. I've updated my [Recommended Internet Systems & Cellular Plans article](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/) to reflect that the MAX BR1 Pro 5G is my top pick for a single radio router aboard. [Recommended Internet Systems & Cellular PlansBelow are some of the current systems / hardware / plans I recommend. These are constantly changing, so check back often.![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/Pepwave-MAX-Transit-CAT18-ethernet-power.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/) --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 46 comments Jerry Keefe@Jerry\_Keefe December 13, 2021 What external marine antenna would you use with this? 20G? 40G? Steve Mitchell@steve December 13, 2021 Either one would be good. If you used the Peplink Maritime 20G, you’d need two of them. With the 40G you’d only need one, but I would guess two 20Gs might perform better. I’ve not been able to test that yet, but it is on the list over the next month. Will OBrien@Will\_OBrien December 14, 2021 Which modem is in the thing? Is it still a daughter card? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 December 15, 2021 The modem is a [Sierra Wireless EM9191](https://www.sierrawireless.com/iot-solutions/products/em9191/?ref=seabits.com). I’m not sure how it is integrated into the unit. Sergei\_Prutkin@Sergei\_Prutkin December 19, 2021 Steve, thank you for another great review. I bought Pepwave MAX-BR1-MK2 based your review almost 3 years ago and now its time to upgrade. We live-a-board and sailing around a lot, just entered Turkey from Greece. I was wondering if you would suggest a new router that has better world bands coverage? Also, should we consider MAX BR1 5G as our new router? Thank you! Steve Mitchell@steve December 19, 2021 Hi [@Sergei\_Prutkin](https://seabits.com/u/sergei%5Fprutkin), There is an APAC/EMEA version of the BR1 Pro 5G, part number MAX-BR1-PRO-5GD-T-PRM. I’d take a look at the bands it supports and see if that matches where you are traveling. You can find the datasheet [here](https://download.peplink.com/resources/pepwave%5Fbr1%5Fpro%5F5g%5Fdatasheet.pdf?ref=seabits.com). I always recommend buying the newest modem possible as the mobile router world is always a little behind the providers (sometimes quite a bit) and you don’t want to have to buy something for the newer bands that frequently. Paul@Paul December 21, 2021 What about the new C-Band that is supposed to enable greater 5G performance? Would the Peplink devices utilize the C-Band? From a quick spec eval I don’t see it listed. Therefore, with this emerging issue, will Peplink need to upgrade their 5G design(s)? Sergei\_Prutkin@Sergei\_Prutkin↩ #8 December 22, 2021 Thanks, i will take a look! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #9 December 25, 2021 C-Band isn’t something that is in wide use yet. Verizon and AT&T have it scheduled for 2022 or even 2023/24\. Most products out there don’t support it, with the exception of some rare cases for T-Mobile. All providers will have to roll out new versions of things with that support. Since mobile routers and the modems that power them, usually from 3rd party vendors, usually take longer, I would suspect we won’t see this for a year or so. bkcorwin@bkcorwin January 16, 2022 With the peplink max BR1 pro 5g setup with wifi as WAN to access wifi from say a marina, is the device still able to act as a wireless AP that my devices can connect to or will i have to add access points into my network? Do you have any newer recommendations for wifi antennas? I see in your 2020 project you use two Poynting OMNI-496 WiFi . Is this still a good option or have newer things come around since then that I could use with this br1 pro 5g to get wifi signals. Also is there a reason you would use a microtik groove in the WAN port instead of just using the wifi as wan built into the pro 5g? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 January 16, 2022 bkcorwin: > With the peplink max BR1 pro 5g setup with wifi as WAN to access wifi from say a marina, is the device still able to act as a wireless AP that my devices can connect to or will i have to add access points into my network? It will function as both, but with reduced performance on both. It is doing both things with a single set of radios, so expect less performance than if it was doing one thing. bkcorwin: > Do you have any newer recommendations for wifi antennas? I see in your 2020 project you use two Poynting OMNI-496 WiFi . Is this still a good option or have newer things come around since then that I could use with this br1 pro 5g to get wifi signals Those are still good, as are the Peplink Maritime 20G and Mobility 42G depending on your configuration and space. bkcorwin: > Also is there a reason you would use a microtik groove in the WAN port instead of just using the wifi as wan built into the pro 5g? Yes, for better WiFi as WAN performance if you didn’t want to use the built in solution. The best solution in my opinion is to use a Peplink router like the BR1 Pro 5G for all internet or WAN sources, so that includes LTE and WiFi as WAN. That means disabling the WiFi access point in it for local clients. I’d use a mix of antennas, some for LTE and some for WiFi. Then I’d use either the AP One Rugged or AP One AX series of access points for the local WiFi network and have the router control them. bkcorwin@bkcorwin↩ #13 January 16, 2022 Thanks Steve, Im leaning towards just buying the maritime 40g so i have single antenna solution for the LTE and GPS. The things pricey but seems like a good solution. So my intended system is going to be pretty much what you describe. BR1 pro 5g with a maritime 40 for the LTE system and then two OMNI-496s hooked up for WIFI as WAN. Then I’ll run cat6 from the BR1 Pro 5G to a couple of the rugged APs. So basically what you did in your 2020 setup, but with the newer peplink router and different antennas. Trying to build a system that I wont have to upgrade soon and can just let run. The new boat were working on basically has nothing right now so i have a blank canvas. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 January 16, 2022 You might consider the Maritime 20G (a single one) in place of the dual OMNI-496’s. On paper, the 496’s are slightly better, but you need two of them. With the 20G you can use RP-SMA adapters and one antenna for both of the WiFi elements, which you will likely never be using simultaneously anyhow. The 20G also looks similar to the 40G in color and size. I’ve tested the 40G and have an article coming out on the 20/40G and they are both very good antennas. The 20/40 will be what I use for LTE moving forwards. bkcorwin@bkcorwin↩ #15 January 16, 2022 Thats an interesting Idea. Though I’m not space constrained it seems simpler. Looking forward to your article on the 20 and 40\. Is there a vendor you recommend for peplink products? robmadden@robmadden January 26, 2022 Hi Steve, Does the MAX BR1 Pro 5G support IPv6 port forwarding? I have the max transit duo cat18 and I discovered this morning that it does not support port forwarding over IPv6 which is a huge bummer. Rob Steve Mitchell@steve January 26, 2022 robmadden: > Does the MAX BR1 Pro 5G support IPv6 port forwarding? I have the max transit duo cat18 and I discovered this morning that it does not support port forwarding over IPv6 which is a huge bummer. I don’t believe that it does. In general, most of the Peplink consumer line does not support IPv6\. There’s a great [forum post here](https://forum.peplink.com/t/IPv6/61b881bfd47b69d27ac6baed/3?ref=seabits.com) that is recent and links to many other people asking for it. Many smaller vendors like Peplink struggle to add it. Having been in the networking industry most of my career, it’s not easy to add correctly, and up until the last few years, hasn’t really been mainstream or in use to the point where vendors were forced to provide support, even though we were “running out of IPv4” addresses over 10 years ago Hopefully Peplink will add it, but I suspect it will appear on their more commercial products first. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #16 January 26, 2022 bkcorwin: > Thats an interesting Idea. Though I’m not space constrained it seems simpler. > > Looking forward to your article on the 20 and 40\. Is there a vendor you recommend for peplink products? I highly recommend Doug Miller at [https://onboardwireless.com/](https://onboardwireless.com/?ref=seabits.com) \- if you mention you worked with me on a design, it helps me out as well! bkcorwin@bkcorwin February 06, 2022 [Onboard Wireless](https://onboardwireless.com/poynting-extension-cables-for-5-in-1-antennas.html?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/4a8697f2b133ae6ea0062871c71a0bd2cc4229cb.jpeg) ### [Poynting Extension Cables for 5 in 1 Antennas-PO-CAB-11](https://onboardwireless.com/poynting-extension-cables-for-5-in-1-antennas.html?ref=seabits.com) Poynting Extension Cables for 5 in 1 Antennas-Extension cables for the Poynting MIMO-3-15, Peplink Mobility 40G 4x4 MIMO LTE/GPS Antenna and Peplink M What happens in the case of a br1 pro 5g if you were to use a 40g antenna as a 2xwifi+2xLTE setup? Does this even work? I guess perhaps more appropriately I should ask what am I going to actually experience in difference between a 40g + 20g setup and just using a 42g dome? Brian Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #20 February 06, 2022 bkcorwin: > What happens in the case of a br1 pro 5g if you were to use a 40g antenna as a 2xwifi+2xLTE setup? Does this even work? > > I guess perhaps more appropriately I should ask what am I going to actually experience in difference between a 40g + 20g setup and just using a 42g dome? You could definitely use the 40G for 2x LTE and 2x WiFi. Both the 40G and 20G have support for WiFi frequencies. The difference between the 40G and 42G would be as follows: The 42G has 4x LTE and 2x WiFi, where the 40G only has 4x LTE or 2x LTE+2x WiFi. So the 42G would have more LTE elements. The big difference is that the 40G is specifically designed for maritime and is quite large, where the 42G is much smaller and wouldn’t work as well out in the middle of nowhere. bkcorwin@bkcorwin↩ #21 February 06, 2022 Thanks, really got to figure out how i want to go about this. While I know it’s a drop in the bucket, the 40g+20g setup costs a lot more than just buying a 42g. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #22 February 07, 2022 Most folks worry about real estate for the antennas, performance, and budget. In the grand scheme of things, these antennas and devices can seem expensive, but they’re usually far cheaper than any marine devices! Tom Shepherd@TomShep February 11, 2022 [@steve](https://seabits.com/u/steve) question on wiring for power. I’m planning to dedicate a 12V DC circuit to network gear including a BR1 5G, likely an AP One Rugged, a small switch and an IP camera. My concern is the voltage drop at anchor. Any suggestions on the best way to ensure that all these 12V devices get a consistent 12V instead of 11.5V or lower on battery only? Or is this not something you worry about in your experience? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #24 February 11, 2022 I don’t generally worry about it for the Peplink equipment, as most of it, including the AP One Rugged and BR1 Pro 5G, run off of a wider DC voltage range. I know the BR1 Pro 5G is 10V-30V, so you should be OK. In some cases, if your house bank is also used for big loads like a davit crane or windlass, and you kick those on while at anchor, you could have a sag that could affect some of that equipment. I had this issue on Rendezvous. The windlass was on the house bank, and the Peplink stuff was at the far end of a long run up in the flybridge which meant the voltage was already lower than everywhere else. When kicking on the windlass, the entire internet stack would reboot. To solve this I used a Victron DC-DC Converter (not Charger) from 12v to 12v to stabilize the voltage and provide a consistent output all the time: [Orion-Tr DC-DC Converters Isolated - Victron Energy](https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-tr-dc-dc-converters-isolated?ref=seabits.com) I actually have several on board the new boat already - one for the NMEA 2000 network which was super sensitive to voltage drops, and one for something else I forget right now. But this particular electrical system is … not great, so there are a lot more voltage drops and deeper ones which I’ll be removing over time. Tom Shepherd@TomShep↩ #25 February 11, 2022 Thanks Steve, super helpful. I’ll probably grab one of the Victron units as my windlass is on my house bank (yuck). Just testing the BR1 Pro 5G at home, I’m super impressed with the speeds i’m getting from even 4G, fantastic bit of kit, looking forward to getting it on the boat in the Spring. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #26 February 12, 2022 Glad the BR1 is working well! Austin :)@\_WxOkie April 14, 2022 Will the MAX BR1 Pro internal config allow you to pass the carrier’s WAN public IP off to devices behind it, or configure the WAN if there are static IPs assigned to the account? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #28 April 14, 2022 All of the Peplink products have a very feature-packed firewall and support NAT. If you’re just wanting to open a specific port to a server on your LAN, you could use the NAT functionality for that. If you wanted to do something more complicated, such as a range of ports, then you could combine that with the firewall inbound rules. There are also a number of settings on the WAN side including items such as MAC address cloning, NAT vs IP Forwarding, and more. It would really depend on the ISP and type of connection. For wired ethernet WAN connections, you have a lot more control over the WAN IP address and settings. For a cellular or WiFi as WAN connection, there are a number of those settings that aren’t available given the type of connection, however the firewall and NAT still exist. Cellular connections in particular are challenging to get static IPs with, and many providers don’t even have architecture that will allow it without a lot of changes. To get around this, you can use some of the things I talk about in [Remotely accessing boat systems](https://seabits.com/remotely-accessing-boat-systems/) or a VPN to a public cloud device that can tunnel back in. JeffR@JeffR November 23, 2022 Steve, Can you hook the MikroTik Groove A 52 ac to the WAN port on the Pepwave MAX BR1 Pro 5G Router? Then use free WiFi from a marina, boosted by the Groove, through the Max BR1 router and out to your own wireless network? Would this work if there was a splash page that you had to acknowledge before being able to access the free WiFi? Thanks, Jeff Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #30 November 23, 2022 You can definitely use a MikroTik off of a Peplink WAN port. I’ve done it for years ([Grace's redundant Internet setup](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/)) and it works very well. You can get through most splash pages as well. It is also possible to use the WiFi as WAN functionality within Peplink itself to connect to a remote WiFi signal, similar to using the MikroTik. The MikroTik will perform better, but is harder to configure ([MikroTik Groove step-by-step setup guide](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/)) and can have some compatibility issues. JeffR@JeffR↩ #31 November 23, 2022 Thanks for clearing that up for me. I was going to use a Peplink Mobility 42G antenna, but learned that it doesn’t do well with the rolling motion of a boat. So, I am now planning to go with Peplink Maritime 40G antenna. I will be losing the 2 WIFI antennas that are built into the Mobility 42G, but am hopeful that the MikroTik Groove A 52 ac will be sufficient to pick up marina WIFI. If not, I could also try using 2 of the 4 cellular antennas for WIFI by using SMA to RP-SMA adapters. That will be 2 of the 3 legs of my internet plan. Starlink will be added at some point in the future. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #32 November 24, 2022 If remote WiFi is critical, then using a 40G for the 4x cellular connections, and a Maritime 20G antenna (you can read my review of both of these here: [Peplink Maritime Antennas](https://seabits.com/peplink-maritime-antennas/)) with adapters would get you excellent WiFi capabilities. Remote WiFi is not as common or reliable as it used to be. For a lot of customer installations, we do the cellular antenna + router and test out the capabilities of the existing factory antennas on the Peplink devices to get WiFi as WAN remotely. In many cases that meets what they want for casual use. For more dedicated usage, using a Maritime 20G antenna + only using the router for remote WiFi + cellular and adding an access point inside the boat is common. JeffR@JeffR↩ #33 November 24, 2022 Internet is not a requirement, but highly desired. I was planning to do what you suggested, but I have purchased a MikroTik Groove to improve the wifi signal to my Pepwave MAX BR1 Pro. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Thanks so much for your help! wkearney99@wkearney99 July 30, 2023 I’ve been using a BR1 Pro 5G for about 3 months. On the Chesapeake and using just the supplied paddle antennas with it just sitting at the lower helm station. Mainly via T-Mobile with a 2nd SIM on Verizon. I have it set to use both cell and wifi for wan connections. Local wifi is sometimes too congested to be useful, so in those situations I set the wifi as a lower priority, as a fallback if cell goes out (which it hasn’t). It has worked flawlessly. I may or may not add an external antenna for cell, but really gave not needed it on the Bay. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #35 July 31, 2023 Great feedback! I know in more urban areas here on the West Coast that the included antennas work very well near populated areas. Out further in the more remote locations, big outdoor antennas are the only way to go. Richard Lynch@Richard\_Lynch November 27, 2023 We recently added a 40G antenna to our set up below. 1. Starlink 2. 40G Antenna (cables 1&2 connected to the front of the Balance 20x. 3. Balance 20X (att SIM card) (paddle antennas on rear of unit) 4. AP One X (lan connected) 5. Groove Antenna (disconnected/removed) Questions - for my set up 1. do I connect all 4 cables to the 40G? ——currently only have two connected running both LTE AT&T SIM card and marina Wifi ? —— speed has not been great since adding the 40G in this configuration. Download speed is ok but upload is poor. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #37 November 27, 2023 Hi Richard, I’m not clear on what you have connected where. Do you have a single LTE radio in the 20X, or the add-on module as well, for a total of two LTE radios? It sounds like maybe only one, but you indicate the 40G is connected to the antennas on the front of the unit, and have paddle antennas on the back of the unit. What are the paddle antennas for? When you say: Richard\_Lynch: > ——currently only have two connected running both LTE AT&T SIM card and marina Wifi ? Are you connecting to remote marina WiFi as well? Were you doing this before? Are things faster with just the stock antennas? Were using using marina WiFi at that time as well? rlynch03@rlynch03↩ #38 November 27, 2023 Thanks Steve - We have a single LTE (Sim Card) radio in the Balance 20X. The 40G has two cables connected to the front of the Balance 20X. The other two cables (from the 40G are not connected. We installed to the two Paddle Antennas on the back of the Balance 20 as suggested by some tech folks… to pull in the Marina Wifi and create a WAN to connect to the Marina. I believe that caused a conflict. When i disable the WAN connection from the Marina the speeds improved. I had the three connections (Starlink, ATT LTE and Marina Wifi) on Priority One before disabling the Marina Wifi last night. Once I **disabled** the WAN wifi (Marina Wifi) things improved. The Marina wifi is strong here and I am within 25’ of their antenna. So my config must be wrong. I was told that I could use the 40G antenna to connect to the marina wifi but later was told it isnt possible by the company i purchased the equipment from. Thanks for any suggestions. Steve Mitchell@steve November 28, 2023 There are still quite a few missing pieces here. Has someone installed all of this for you? Are you using the Balance 20X to provide the local WiFi network that you use on the boat? If so, those paddle antennas should have been installed from the very beginning. You could also use the other two cables from the 40G if you wanted to. That would improve the ability for the router to acquire the remote WiFi signal. However, as I wrote in a [recent article about WiFi as WAN](https://seabits.com/wifi-as-wan/), when you use the same WiFi radio to both create a local network, and connect to a remote one as well, you will massively affect the performance of the router. This is especially the case with the 20X which is not the most powerful solution. It does sound like this is what you had setup, and disabling WiFi as WAN improved performance. I can’t really comment on anything else as I don’t know how long your cables are from the router to the antenna, where it is installed, your signal levels, and many other factors. This is a service I provide to a lot of boaters but it involves some discovery and potentially paid consulting work to understand the system, fix any issues, and design the right setup. rlynch03@rlynch03↩ #40 November 29, 2023 Thanks Steve… I have installed and set up most of this with the phone support of West Network Systems. Yes we have a AP One X and a Balance 20X providing the Local Wifi to the boat. That has been working well except for the recent change to pickup the Marina Wifi via my Balance 20X Paddle Antennas and provide Local Wifi. Once we disabled the Marina Wifi on the Balance 20X the Local Wifi signal improved. We have 15’ extensions on the 40G (comes with 6’) Flybridge Antenna so a total of 21’ Since we are running an LTE AT&T Card we would like to use the (2 extra cables) 40G to pull in the Marina Wifi when available. So we purchased the adapters and connected the other two antenna cables from the 40G to the WiFi connections on the back of the Balance 20. If I understand your “Wifi and WAN” article it sounds like i should disable the Local Wifi from the Balance 20X and only use the AP One to provide Local Wifi to the entire boat. Its a 52’ Sedan Bridge so we werent sure if we needed both (AP One and Balance 20) sources for Local Wifi for overall good coverage. In fact thats why we purchased the AP One to provide better coverage in the front of the boat where strong signal was lacking. I could mount the AP One in a more central location to the boat and see if that helps simultaneously turning of the Balance 20 Local Wifi. I didnt realize and West Systems didnt caution that running Local Wifi from the Router might degrade performance. Although they did say that running two different AP’s might cloud the air with two much wifi??? Yesterday we connected the 40G Antenna extra two cables to the Balance 20 Wifi connections on the back to again pick up the Marina Wifif. West Systems simultaneously blew out all of our wifi networks (2 from the AP and two from the Balance 20) and set just a new 2.4 and 5 ghz local wifi. Sounded good but signal is poor again and having troubles reconnecting my devices via wifi. How do we get started with your support? rlynch03@rlynch03↩ #41 December 01, 2023 Steve: I read the article regarding Wifi as WAN. Thank you… What is the best way to test turning off the Local Wifi in the Balance 20X while maintaining local Wifi from the AP ONE X? I currently have the the Marine 40G (all 4 (5 including the GPS) wires connected to the Balance 20X. I am also connected to the Marina Wifi. Thanks Rich Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #41 December 02, 2023 rlynch03: > If I understand your “Wifi and WAN” article it sounds like i should disable the Local Wifi from the Balance 20X and only use the AP One to provide Local Wifi to the entire boat. Its a 52’ Sedan Bridge so we werent sure if we needed both (AP One and Balance 20) sources for Local Wifi for overall good coverage. It’s worth testing to see if the AP One will work well enough without the 20X if you intend on using WiFi as WAN. If not, and you need both, then you’ll just have to deal with the lower performance from the 20X, or you can add another AP One if you really want to. rlynch03: > I didnt realize and West Systems didnt caution that running Local Wifi from the Router might degrade performance. Although they did say that running two different AP’s might cloud the air with two much wifi??? WiFi as WAN has been around a long time, and the performance degradation is pretty well known, so I’m not sure why they didn’t mention it. Having too many APs does cause issues if you don’t tune them. Using defaults in the settings is not going to provide the best results - you usually need to choose differing channels for both 2.4 and 5 Ghz radios so that you’re not using the same ones across your own APs. Setting client thresholds, power levels, etc. can help as well. This is where a site survey or a professional installation and tuning can help. rlynch03: > What is the best way to test turning off the Local Wifi in the Balance 20X while maintaining local Wifi from the AP ONE X? I don’t believe you can force the 20X just to be a WiFi as WAN device - some routers have this option which makes it simpler. You may have to create a new AP Profile and assign the AP One X to it to test a new SSID, or change the old one to something else and create a new profile with the old name. Richard Lynch@Richard\_Lynch December 05, 2023 Steve I believe we have made many of the tweaks you recommend. I sent you a PM trying to secure your services. We even think we turned off the WiFi Radio in the Balance 20X but haven’t confirmed that yet. See below screen shot. [![IMG_1110](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/d2409152a81460e6c3331b1cb81471e17055cfa5.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/d2409152a81460e6c3331b1cb81471e17055cfa5.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "IMG_1110") The unit is performing well but one major issue we discovered in this process is the 40G is hurting the performance of both Marina WiFi and LTE Speeds compared to the paddles antennas on the balance 20x. I tested my Marina WiFi and LTE with the 40G connected and with the paddle antennas connected to the router. In both cases I have better performance (up and down speed) with the paddle antennas rlynch03@rlynch03↩ #44 December 05, 2023 Thought this screen shot may also show that we attempted to turn off the radio in the Balance 20X. [![image](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/93d90998293aaea7df1009ee74fa65db19a1194c.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/93d90998293aaea7df1009ee74fa65db19a1194c.png?ref=seabits.com "image") Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #44 December 10, 2023 Richard\_Lynch: > In both cases I have better performance (up and down speed) with the paddle antennas Antenna performance can be frustrating to tune. If you have really good cellular signals, as an example, the default antennas may work better because there is less cable between the antenna and the router, especially if the router is in a good place and not obscured. Bigger antennas will work better when you are in lower signal areas, but may not work as well in better signal areas as the default antennas, essentially. Richard\_Lynch: > We even think we turned off the WiFi Radio in the Balance 20X but haven’t confirmed that yet. See below screen shot. That looks correct. Another way to verify it is to look at the AP status. pat@pat June 17, 2025 I’ve been happily using this router for a few years now on my sailboat. Was looking to provision some data for our summer cruise and was excited to see that Peplink added esim support, which would make things so much easier. EXCEPT that this feature is locked up and only available if I pay to renew Primecare…for $149 per year. I get that they have to fund continued firmware development, and I guess they are saying the Primecare fees paid to deliver this feature (?), but it still feels pretty crummy to hold a new feature hostage for a support subscription that has zero appeal to me. This has me thinking of switching back to a Teltonika router. Steve, you seem pretty loyal to Peplink. I guess you don’t mind the subscription fees. Have you ever looked at Teltonika? Good/bad/indifferent? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #47 June 18, 2025 Most companies operate this way now. Even Teltonika has parts of their online and management suite that you have to pay some sort of service fee for. Many other companies that sell hardware have yearly subscription fees of some sort. Having worked before for a hardware-based company, most of those fees go to the support burden, and some to continuing development. They are also another way a company can show growth, and we all know that these companies don’t create products just for fun I like some of Peplink’s features, but I’m not necessarily completely loyal to them. I have some GL.iNet products that I’ve been testing that are really nice, and will write about soon. Teltonika has some good stuff as well. It comes down to what you’re interested in from a feature and user experience perspective. While GL.iNet and Teltonika have good UI’s, they are not anywhere near as easy to use as Peplink, and even Peplink is difficult compared to mainstream products. If you have to do something more complicated on Teltonika, you could be forced to go into the Luci console which is basically OpenWRT and can be intimidating for folks. Feature wise, they all have very similar base sets, but when it comes to things like remote management, VPN, and things like SpeedFusion, that is where you have to look at the individual key things you might be using, and determine if its supported in the same fashion. For instance, if you do want to use SpeedFusion to combine multiple connections, or to do very fast failovers, that is a very Peplink-centric feature. Many others have something similar, but they don’t work as seamlessly, or require monthly/yearly subscriptions. Always happy to [have a chat](https://savvycal.com/seabits/chat/?ref=seabits.com) and walk through what you use now to determine if one of the other manufacturers are a fit. ### Using Starlink on a boat and in a marina URL: https://seabits.com/using-starlink-aboard-and-in-a-marina/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:24:19.000Z 📣 Check out my new article on Starlink below with updates and better news! ![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png) Starlink has been a technology that many boaters have been interested in because of the potential performance and flexibility. Unfortunately, it is not yet fully supported in all mobile and marine environments. I spent some time over the last few months doing some testing just to see what limitations might exist. ![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png) A few months ago, I discussed a lot of reasons why Starlink isn't ready for your boat, and many of those things are still true. But in certain situations, it might be a usable solution even in the current version. ## Underway Starlink definitely is not ready for being used underway. The process that the dish goes through to find the correct point to look at in the sky usually happens at power up, and maybe one or two times a day after that. While underway, you're moving and changing directions, and the dish will eventually lose sight of the correct area and disconnect. At some point, it will start trying to find things again, and could work for a while if you are on a straight line course, but in general, it would have a tough time keeping up. I also question whether the current dish and motor setup would survive in a marine world, particularly while in heavy weather with both wind and waves and the associated vibrations that you might be in. ## At Anchor At anchor Starlink worked a bit better as long as I wasn't rotating that much. In a moderate wind, with the boat pointing a particular direction for a while without much rotation, I would retain signal, but still experience outages of many minutes as I drifted out of the area the dish had locked onto. At times, it would attempt to re-connect and re-align itself, and it would work again until I rotated more. I still don't think this would be a good solution given the current motors and how infrequently it attempts to re-acquire the area in the sky it needs to point to. ## At a Dock At the dock Starlink worked very well, but in more dense marinas, it had issues, which might be a surprise to some people. In particular, sailboat masts and other tall things in the field of view of the dish caused outages sometimes every couple of minutes. Sometimes the outages were only 10-15 seconds, while other outages were minutes long. It really depends on what is in the field of view, and how big it is. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/outage-list.jpeg) For normal browsing, it isn't the end of the world, but for things that are more real time like Zoom, it isn't really usable. I would recommend having a back-up method of connectivity such as cellular or WiFi, and using a Peplink product with SpeedFusion so that when Starlink loses signal, the other connectivity fills in as a backup. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/dish-in-marina.jpeg) ## Visibility & Obstructions Obstructions are the biggest challenge with maintaining a good signal and reliability. Unlike older satellite systems, where they pointed at a fixed spot in the sky and really never move, Starlink uses an array that looks at a swath of sky that is quite large and wide. As a result, this means you need to have a whole huge hunk of sky visible to the dish at all times, or you'll have outages. This is something that will hopefully improve over the years, but for now it is a limitation. ![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/bfc668_365e6f9353d04fcc9f87593f890989b5~mv2_d_3334_2084_s_2.png/v1/fill/w_32%2Ch_32%2Clg_1%2Cusm_0.66_1.00_0.01/bfc668_365e6f9353d04fcc9f87593f890989b5~mv2_d_3334_2084_s_2.png) Above is a great article by Joe Meadows where he discusses his testing. In particular, point 2 is very relevant to using Starlink on a boat in a marina or even near a shoreline with trees: > Be aware that if you have just a tiny little bit of a tree that is barely visible in the area that's supposed to be free of obstructions, you will still have a loss of signal each day, which means no service, even if just for a few seconds or so each time. That interruption might last only a few seconds, but those seconds might occur during your most important call of the week. And the more obstructions you have, the worse it will be. As mentioned above while testing at docks and marinas, sailboat masts and other tall things like shorelines and trees cause a lot of issues if that happens to be the direction that the satellites are hanging out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/visibility-check.jpeg) One way to check your area even before you purchase is to download the Starlink app from a mobile app store, and use the obstruction / visibility checker to see if your marina or dock location would work for Starlink. It uses your location and camera to figure out if you have a clear view of the sky, or if there are obstructions you need to worry about. It will show you the overall percentage of visibility, and allow you to move around until you find a good location. ## Performance Overall, when in good conditions, the performance was excellent. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/performance2.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/speedtest.jpeg) Latency is on par or lower than a good cellular connection at an average of 30ms or so. This is about double a good fiber or cable connection, but still extremely low and more than enough to allow video conferencing, phone calls, and even gaming. Download was between 150-170Mbps, and upload was between 15-22Mbps. The download is definitely nice, and is similar to a very good cellular connection. What is even better is the very healthy upload bandwidth. This will allow for very reliable Zoom or Teams video sessions for at least 2-3 people with plenty of other bandwidth to handle other types of traffic. ## Cabin Use I actually wanted Starlink for our family cabin in rural Eastern Washington. We have had very, very slow DSL for years there, and previous to that, terrible satellite. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/starlink-cabin.jpeg) Starlink dish is on the right on a pole Even after using the Starlink app to plan the location, I still had to tweak it a bit and move it further out from the edge of the house than I had planned. I had hoped to mount it on the edge of the eave, but there were some obstructions from a tree far away on the edge of the sight line. Since it has been installed about 3 months ago, it has worked very well. Usually once every other day there is an outage of a few seconds, mostly attributed to the dish moving around, firmware updates, or Starlink general outages. There has been snow, rain, high winds, and power outages, and it has survived through all of those so far. We've left the DSL connection, and likely will keep it as a backup for a year or two until Starlink becomes more stable. ## Other Notes There were a few other notes I had from using Starlink aboard. **Location limitations** \- you still have to register or choose your address / location for where the dish "lives" which dictates the "pod" that you are connecting to. This isn't an issue in a marina, where you will be in a fixed location, but for mobile use out and about, this is a major pain. You have to have connectivity in order to change this, and figuring out when you need to is still a work in progress. There are also restrictions on where you can move to, and long wait times for coverage in new areas due to supply chain and other issues. > Should work everywhere for global maritime by roughly middle of next year (enough sats with laser links launched). Until then, it will be patchy when far from land. > > — Elon Musk (@elonmusk) [November 13, 2021](https://twitter.com/elonmusk/status/1459500803245461506?ref%5Fsrc=twsrc%5Etfw&ref=seabits.com) **Maritime support by 2022?** This tweet generated a lot of excitement in the marine community recently. What is specifically being discussed is the laser links between satellites, not some sort of general marine support or otherwise. Right now, each satellite that you're connected to must have a view of a ground station that is connected to the internet. That's how the satellite itself gets internet access, and passes that connectivity on to the dish. Starlink has been building ground stations as fast as they can, but you can't build them on water, nor can you build them everywhere in rural areas. This feature allows the satellites themselves to connect to another satellite somewhere up in the sky via a laser link and form a connection to a ground station that way. While out on the ocean, you could assume that there would be a "train" of satellites all linked together by lasers, maybe hundreds of miles long, to the final satellite that has a view of a ground station back on land. While this is pretty cool technology, we've known about it for some time, and this tweet does not mean that maritime solutions will be available by mid 2022 😀. What it does mean is that the technology will be ready to support people far offshore. Does that mean we will have a maritime dish and mount? No idea. **Ditch the router** \- I tested both with and without the Starlink provided WiFi router. The only thing that you really lose is the ability for the router itself to do speed tests. I already had very good established WiFi and didn't want another device and WiFi network, so being able to plug the dish cable directly into a Peplink WAN port was perfect. There are [instructions on the management IP you need to setup](https://forum.peplink.com/t/starlink-app-fix/34868/2?ref=seabits.com) with Peplink for this to work correctly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Starlink-dashboard.png) I am using an open source project called [starlink-grpc-tools](https://github.com/sparky8512/starlink-grpc-tools?ref=seabits.com) to create really nice dashboards from the dish. It shows throughput, latency, outages, and obstruction details. Helpful to track how things are performing. ## Wrap Up Starlink's technology is pretty darn cool. Being able to get 100+ Mbps of low latency internet without cellular or cables is astonishing, and I can't wait to see the additional advances Starlink comes up with, as well as competitors who are already jumping into the market. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/IMG_3679.jpeg) However, I still stand by my previous article from a few months ago that it is not ready for most boaters, especially if you intend on using it underway or at anchor. If you're at a dock with minimal obstructions, it could be a great solution. For now, it is a niche solution for a very specific use case, and will take at least a year, if not longer, before it becomes available to marine users in a more mobile form. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 5 comments BoatGuyBill@BoatGuyBill November 24, 2021 Oh my gosh Steve, could you write a more thorough and specific to my interests and needs article on this subject? I think not! Thanks so much! kymsails@kymsails November 24, 2021 Haha - having the same thoughts as [@BoatGuyBill](https://seabits.com/u/boatguybill) here. Thanks for testing this out and writing this up Steve Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 November 24, 2021 BoatGuyBill: > Oh my gosh Steve, could you write a more thorough and specific to my interests and needs article on this subject? I think not! Thanks so much! kymsails: > Haha - having the same thoughts as [@BoatGuyBill](https://seabits.com/u/boatguybill) here. > Thanks for testing this out and writing this up Steve Hah! Thanks to you both [@BoatGuyBill](https://seabits.com/u/boatguybill) and [@kymsails](https://seabits.com/u/kymsails) for the kind words. I get asked about Starlink daily - folks think it is a viable alternative even now - and I wanted to spend some time with it to make sure people understood it is not ready for prime time yet, unless you have a very specific use case and clear sky view! Sailing Infidels@Sailing\_Infidels December 24, 2021 Great read and info. I am aware of the limitations on boats and understand that the eventuality of being able to cruise with it is there but with no real timeline. As usual, Musk chooses his words carefully lol. Anyway, we currently have Starling on the floating fishing lodge that we’re caretaking on Vancouver Island and it has been pretty impressive. We’ve had it since late September and only experienced one outage so far and that was just a matter of rebooting the router. Of course our lodge is anchored well in one spot and does not change in orientation. The weakness is that we are anchored in a very narrow cove with the shorelines on either side of us very close to the lodge and the hills rising steeply. This cuts our sky view down to a very small slice. Add the tree tops to that and our dish is aiming directly into the tops of the trees. It hasn’t been a problem for connectivity though, just for speed. At best we’re only seeing 40 to 60 Mbps. Even so, we’re still able to use Zoom and watch streaming movies on Netflix completely glitch free. I am crossing my fingers for a speedy deployment of the next generation of satellites with laser communication. Thanks for the great article and Merry Xmas to you. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 December 26, 2021 Thanks for the report on usability and usage! Always good to hear how others are using Starlink, and what works/doesn’t work. ### New Peplink antenna testing URL: https://seabits.com/new-peplink-antenna-testing/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:31:24.000Z Peplink has not had a great antenna lineup for the last few years. Their older antennas, specifically for cellular, weren't really compelling, and none were fully marine friendly. The good news is that both Peplink and Poynting have new antennas for the marine world that look very attractive. My go-to antenna vendor has been Poynting for about 3 years, and their OMNI series of antennas are well built, marine ready, and perform extremely well. You can see reviews on the OMNI-400 and 402 below, which are specifically for cellular, as well as the OMNI-496, which is designed for WiFi. [Poynting OMNI LTE antennasI’m always on the lookout for new LTE antennas that could help improve my signal while on the water. Poynting has a couple of interesting marine antennas...![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-antennas-1.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/) [Poynting OMNI-496 WiFi antennaThe Poynting OMNI-496 is an excellent dual band WiFi antenna built for the marine world.![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Poynting-OMNI-496-contents.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-496-wifi/) While Poynting antennas have been great, their performance in the lower bands has been less than ideal. ## Testing Background I have talked about how I test in the past, but at the high level here are some of the main bullet points with my approach: - Real world - I try to use the antennas in as many real-world scenarios as possible which includes in marinas, at anchor, and varying signal levels. I also don't just test them, I use them all day long for work, relaxation, etc. - Duration - testing for a week doesn't do it for me. I want to see these things work for a month or two and get a true feel for their performance in as many conditions as possible. - Comparison - when testing, I usually have at least 2 other antennas that I test against that are known quantities. This allows me to compare performance across multiple types of antennas. I also use all three major US carriers and cycle through the antennas, sometimes testing them simultaneously on the same carrier with differing antennas, to get as close to identical conditions as possible. - Equipment - I try to use a mix of old and new routers to see how things perform. ## Performance Defined I have a very specific, marine-focused definition of what I consider to be a good marine antenna. This is an area that I get a lot of questions about and it is important to understand. Without jumping into a deep discussion about antenna performance, elements, and many other things, the bottom line is that most of the mobile routers and marine antennas are tuned and designed to **perform well all the time whether that be in a metro area or in the middle of nowhere.** Think of them like all-weather tires. They will work in the summer well, deal with water and hydroplaning, and have decent performance in the snow. They won’t perform like racing slicks on hot pavement, nor will they let you go jump into 2’ snowdrifts. When I talk about the performance of marine antennas, I’m specifically focused on **always being connected** with good connectivity and decent bandwidth all of the time. ## Peplink Mobility Antennas ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Mobility-42G-Peplink-Datasheet.png) Peplink rolled out a series of "puck" style antennas earlier this year which I wasn't really that enthused about. My experience with these types of antennas on the water has been mediocre at best, and terrible most of the time. Shoving 2-4 different antenna elements in something the size of a coffee cup doesn't bode well for picking up cellular signals in remote locations. In addition, puck-style antennas are very flat, so if you are rotating or moving side to side at anchor or underway, an entire "side" of the antenna is pointing directly at the water, and pretty useless. The Peplink [Mobility](https://www.peplink.com/products/mobility-antenna-series/?ref=seabits.com) line (was originally the Puma line, but there was some sort of copyright issue) provides a number of different combinations of cellular, WiFi and GPS elements inside of them. I chose to test two of them, and have had them under test for 6+ months with a lot of data: - [42G - 4x cellular, 2x WiFi, GPS](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Mobility-42G-Combo-LTEWiFiGPS-Antenna%5Fp%5F23.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) - [40G - 4x cellular + GPS](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Mobility-40G-4x4-MIMO-LTE5GGPS-Antenna%5Fp%5F44.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) They also have several other models with 2x cellular and various combinations of WiFi and GPS, but I did not test those. I suspect they would perform similarly. The 40G is roughly similar to other puck antennas in terms of size, while the 42G is quite a bit larger, and I think as a result helps its performance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Mobility-marine-mount.png) These antennas were originally targeted at cars, trucks, RVs and the likes, but Peplink has since come out with a marine mount setup that allows them to be mounted on a standard 1-1/4" threaded marine mount. It's not inexpensive, but it does the job. Unfortunately, just like most antennas out there, to mount it on a marine mount can be challenging. Because the cables are attached, you'll have to either twist the cables backwards when screwing it on the mount, or do something else creative. While I appreciate the option to use this in a marine mount setup, it is not designed thoughtfully for installation. ### Peplink Mobility 40G I've tested the 40G for almost a year, as it was out earlier in the process. It's a good antenna, but even on paper it is lower performing than the 42G. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/40Gvs42G.jpeg) 40G (left) versus the 42G (right) The 40G is smaller than the 42G at a bit over 5" in diameter, while the 42G is over 8" in diameter. In testing, it was an OK antenna, and definitely better than many other puck-style antennas. I wouldn't recommend it because of the middle of the ground performance compared to the 42G, and challenges with the marine mounts. ### Peplink Mobility 42G The 42G is probably the biggest surprise I've had in a long while in terms of testing antennas. While it is bigger than an average puck, I expected moderate performance out of it. I ended up getting as **good as 2x Poynting OMNI-402s** in many cases, and far better performance in the lower frequencies, as expected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/42G.jpeg) This antenna has held its own against a pair of my favorite Poynting OMNI-402 antennas. It seems to have similar performance in almost all situations, and far better performance with the lower frequencies, which are relevant for things like Band 71 on T-Mobile. Where it has problems keeping up with the Poynting OMNI-402 is in very low signal areas, out in the middle of nowhere. The Poynting will do slightly better, while the 42G has a harder time. This is to be expected since the 42G is nowhere near as big as the OMNI-402, and antenna element size matters when you're far away. The 42G also has 2x WiFi antennas in it, and I've used them both for broadcasting my local WiFi network, but also for grabbing remote WiFi signals from nearby networks. It has done surprisingly well given that there are 7 antennas jammed inside the dome, and has allowed me to stay connected to a WiFi as WAN source. The Poynting OMNI-496s are still a superior antenna for this, but you would need 2x of those, plus cabling, plus space for them. If you mostly use WiFi as WAN or remote WiFi in a marina with a pretty decent signal, the 42G is likely going to be enough for your needs. In general, the 42G has really impressed me with its performance and ability to maintain a connection even in low signal areas. If you are space constrained or want a single antenna, the Peplink 42G is an excellent all-around antenna with 4x cellular, 2x WiFi for remote WiFi signals, and a GPS antenna all in one compact setup. ## Peplink Maritime Antennas ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/20G.jpeg) Peplink 20G maritime antenna Just a few months ago, Peplink announced a [maritime-specific antenna lineup](https://www.peplink.com/products/maritime-antenna-series/?ref=seabits.com) which I was very excited to see. There are two choices: - [20G - 2x cellular + 1 GPS](https://onboardwireless.com/peplink-maritime-20g-antenna.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) - [40G - 4x cellular + 1 GPS](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Maritime-40G-Antenna%5Fp%5F25.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) On paper, both antennas show better performance than the Poynting OMNI series, in particular in the lower bands. Those are particularly interesting to me as T-Mobile's Band 71 utilizes those frequencies and could have a big improvement performance-wise. These antennas also support WiFi frequencies, so they could be used for outdoor WiFi access points, or for WiFi as WAN with a Peplink router to grab a remote WiFi signal, an alternative to the Poynting OMNI-496. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/20g-mount.jpeg) On top of the performance increases, the fact that it was a marine-specific antenna was the biggest feature. Nice height for good sized antenna elements, a marine mount base that can be screwed on independently, multiple cable run options, and other nice features mean that this is a direct competitor to the Poynting OMNI-402 in almost all ways. The Poynting OMNI-402 is equivalent in functionality to the Peplink Maritime 20G, except that the Peplink has a GPS antenna in it as well. I don't find that super useful, but some folks may. The Peplink Maritime 40G has no real comparison right now, although Poynting may have something in the works, and it is a 4 element cellular antenna with GPS. Having a single antenna with that many elements in it will be very useful for dual CAT-18 or 5G routers. I have had the Peplink Maritime 20G antennas for about a month, and will do a much deeper dive article into them in particular, but I can share at least my first months impressions below. The Peplink 40G is not available yet - hopefully late 2021. ### Peplink Maritime 20G ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/20G-cables.jpeg) This is a 2x cellular and 1x GPS antenna with the cables built in, similar to the Poynting OMNI-402. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/20g-alone.jpeg) Peplink Maritime 20G on test antenna bench As I mentioned above, one of the best parts of the Peplink Maritime series is the marine mounting setup. No more having to twist cables or do stupid things to get something mounted and setup! I also like the profile and "look" of the Peplink antenna with the flat sides and rounded edges. If we do a quick comparison of the Peplink Maritime 20G to the Poynting OMNI-402, here are a couple notable items in my mind: - The Peplink is shorter by about 10" but slightly thicker - Poynting supports 410-3800Mhz, while Peplink supports 410-6000Mhz While the Peplink supports more overall frequencies, the higher ones are mostly used for 5Ghz WiFi, so that's not as important for cellular use. Where it really gets interesting is in the performance across bands, specifically the lower bands. The Poynting shows a gain of only 1dBi, and in reality it is much lower than that if you examine their test data. I can also say from years of testing that performance in those bands is not great, and can actually be worse than just using factory antennas. The Peplink, on the other hand, shows an overall gain of 3.2dBi in some of the lower bands, and in particular around the 700Mhz range. Overall I have been extremely impressed with the Peplink Maritime 20G antenna for its all-around performance, but specifically with lower bands. This has helped a lot with both AT&T and especially T-Mobile when using Band 71, which is in that lower band range. I had rarely, if ever, seen 700Mhz connections to AT&T with any other antenna, but with the 20G, I see it regularly now. If you are trying to choose a marine grade antenna, and have modems that need 2x2 MIMO connectivity, I would recommend the 20G simply because of its lower band performance, 5G support, and quality marine mountings. It will outperform the Mobility 42G because of its size, and is a better antenna than the Poynting OMNI-402. ## Summary Peplink has come out with two powerful antennas in the [Mobility 42G](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Mobility-42G-Combo-LTEWiFiGPS-Antenna%5Fp%5F23.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) and [Maritime 20G](https://onboardwireless.com/peplink-maritime-20g-antenna.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com). My testing has shown both to be very capable options, with the Maritime 20G being an excellent antenna that rivals my long time favorite Poynting OMNI-402. However, Poynting has some antennas on the horizon, and Peplink also has the new Peplink Maritime 40G (4x4 MIMO) on the way, so if you can wait a month or two, there might be even more to choose from! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 25 comments Steve Mitchell@steve November 20, 2021 Here’s an example of AT&T with the Poynting and Peplink maritime antennas. This is in a notoriously challenging location on the north end of Bainbridge Island in a bay called Port Madison. [![2021-11-20_08-24-31](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/7b6c24fdee7fe51e9b527ae5c19dc328d7845d8f.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/7b6c24fdee7fe51e9b527ae5c19dc328d7845d8f.png?ref=seabits.com "2021-11-20_08-24-31") With two Poynting OMNI-402s connected to a CAT18 Peplink device, I am getting a single band with OK connectivity. SpeedTest shows about 12Mbps down, and 2Mbps up. You can see it is using one of the lower bands in the 700MHz range, which the Poynting antennas aren’t going to do really well with. [![2021-11-20_08-32-14](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/68af1d0d6b6c522c19c09cbbaf441ebbd9ee6470.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/68af1d0d6b6c522c19c09cbbaf441ebbd9ee6470.png?ref=seabits.com "2021-11-20_08-32-14") Here is the same device with two Peplink Maritime 20G antennas. I’m connected to three bands instead of one and getting about 75Mbps down and 5Mbps up. You can see LTE Band 12 at 700MHz in the list, and that it is slightly better RSSI than the previous antenna (-68 vs -72) but the real benefit is the fact that I am using carrier aggregation and connected to three bands instead of one. This is pretty consistent with what I’ve seen from the Peplink Maritime 20G - not necessarily just better performance on the same band, but one or two more bands whenever I connect, versus a single band with the Poynting OMNI-402 in challenging areas. Valhowell@Valhowell February 05, 2022 We are looking at a 25 to 30 mile open oven path for LTE reception. I am considering the new peplink BR1 5G for a T Mobile system. What antenna would you suggest to optimize the low frequency end reception? Thanks Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 February 05, 2022 Either the Peplink Maritime 20G (2 of them) or the Peplink Maritime 40G would be a great antenna to pair with that unit, and it would work well at the lower bands. Vitali@vdidenko↩ #2 February 10, 2022 Great post Steve! I’m split between the new Peplink 20G and two Poynting 400s. How do these compare? The later had better results than 402 in your previous post. Thanks Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 February 11, 2022 vdidenko: > I’m split between the new Peplink 20G and two Poynting 400s. How do these compare? The later had better results than 402 in your previous post. I would choose the Peplink Maritime 20G over two Poynting 400s mainly because the 20G supports more frequencies and bands than the 400 and is setup for 5G, whereas the 400 is older and doesn’t have support for 5G stuff directly. Poynting have some new things coming out, and I have a couple that I am testing, but still in early days. Vitali@vdidenko↩ #7 February 13, 2022 Thanks Steve. I forgot to mention that the router I consider is Pepwave MAX BR1 MK2 LTE Router. 5G sounds to be not that available in the remote areas of Northern BC waters. Also the antenna will be mounted on the top spreader at 10m above the deck with 10m of Poynting Twin HDF-195 cables. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 February 14, 2022 Depending on your budget, I would consider something more than the MAX BR1 MK2\. It has less band support than many of the other routers which means it might have difficulty with some of the newer towers and frequencies. While you might not see 5G everywhere, the 5G routers do have support for more bands, like Band 71, which aren’t 5G, but are much better at longer distances, and are popping up in a lot of areas. I would also re-evaluate your cable lengths and placement. Anything more than about 20 feet of cable is a concern when I design a solution. Beyond that, especially with any connectors or joints, you’re getting close to impacting the overall benefit of an antenna because of loss for the length of the cable and those connectors. If it is going past other wires that could cause interference, that could go up quite a bit. I never exceed the pre-built 6’ cable length on an antenna, plus one 15’ extension, on any installations. Getting the antenna higher, as on a spreader, won’t matter as much compared to the loss you’ll induce. Vitali@vdidenko↩ #9 February 14, 2022 Good point on the cable length. I’ll switch to 5M (15ft) extension and mount it on the lower spreader. That will be 5 meter lower. I wonder how it will affect the range. Price difference on the MAX BR1 Pro 5G makes it hard to justify more than double the price. Maybe Netgear Nighthawk 5G will do the work. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 February 15, 2022 You get what you pay for. The Netgear Nighthawk 5G is a great hotspot, but it doesn’t have even half the software features that the Peplink does. It also has only two external antenna ports, so you won’t end up being able to leverage 4x4 MIMO similar to what you can do with the BR1 Pro 5G. You’ll have a hotspot that has better band support, but not able to leverage those in remote locations since you can’t use an external antenna with all of them. The price might seem like a lot, but the BR1 MK2 is a very simple device. Limited band support, older WiFi networking, slower CPU. I also always ask potential customers to consider how important internet is to them, and how much they spend on other boat devices (MFDs, engines, electrical systems) and compare that to how much they spend (or don’t spend) on internet! jgreen@jgreen February 25, 2022 Dear Steve; I am trying to get better information on the new Peplink 40G-4xcelluar antenna I have just received. From the preliminary information on this antenna I can come up with, these antennas also “support WiFi frequencies, so they could be used for outdoor WiFi access points, or for WiFi as WAN with a Peplink router to grab a remote WiFi signal, an alternative to the additional Poynting OMNI-496 antenna” I have. All this could possibly mean the need having to mount the one Peplink 40G covering both Data and WiFi on the radar pole in just one antenna? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 February 25, 2022 What that part of the specification means is that the antenna has been tuned or built to handle both the WiFi frequencies, and the cellular frequencies. The limit is still the number of antenna elements and cables coming in/out of it, which is 4. If you are going to use it for a CAT-18 or greater modem on a router, that will require 4 connections, which means the antenna will only be used for cellular. You could buy another 40G and use that one for WiFi as WAN, but that is sort of wasteful unless you have 4x4 WiFi connections as well. What router are you connecting it to? jgreen@jgreen February 25, 2022 Hi Steve; The Pepwave MAX Transit DUO “PrimeCare Edition” Dual CAT-12 LTEA Router. I have yet to install and have the Peplink 40G, **This is to replace the** 2 \[Poynting OMNI-402 Marine LTE 2x2 MIMO Antennas. I am trying to go for a minimum amount of antennas on my stern pole which will also have radar, [ntellian C700 Certus Terminal](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3tvl0niIpM&ref=seabits.com) and GPS. Also 1 Poynting OMNI 496 for WiFi. I look forward to your testing on the Peplink 40G. I have good expectations on this to have one vs the 2 OMNI-402’s antennas. Jim Sylvia Crain@Sylvia\_Crain February 28, 2022 Hi Steve, I listened to the recent Peplink maritime seminar. Great! Thanks! I currently have a max BR 1 Mk2 with a poynting 5-1 antenna. I live on Verizon and Sprint currently but have horrible performance unless in “civilization” and using Verizon. Updating to T-mobile as required anyway. Boating on the east coast up and down the length. I’m planning to upgrade to the BR1 Pro 5G and trying to figure my antenna config. I’ve been thinking of at Peplink Maritime 40G for 4x mimo and keeping my Poynting for wifi-WAN. Any reason why this is not a reasonable solution? Currently my Poynting lives in an empty KVH dome. Thinking of pulling the KVH dome and base to use the existing hole in my pilot house and keeping the Poynting 5-1 nearby using the same penetration for cabling of both. Do we need/should we have a ground plane and what distances should we have between the two antennas? Thoughts on this approach? Thanks for your insights and your great blog. Sylvia Sylvia Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #15 March 03, 2022 Hi [@Sylvia\_Crain](https://seabits.com/u/sylvia%5Fcrain), Sylvia\_Crain: > I’ve been thinking of at Peplink Maritime 40G for 4x mimo and keeping my Poynting for wifi-WAN. Any reason why this is not a reasonable solution? The Maritime 40G will definitely be a great antenna to pair with the BR1 Pro 5G for the LTE side. I don’t know which Poynting 5-1 you have, but their WiFi antennas, especially in the all-in-one antennas can perform less than standard antennas in a lot of cases. Depending on where you put your BR1, the factory antennas might work better. I’d test both just to be safe. Sylvia\_Crain: > Do we need/should we have a ground plane and what distances should we have between the two antennas? Thoughts on this approach? You don’t need a ground plane with most antennas, but they may suggest or even require them based on how the antenna is built or where it is being placed. If you haven’t used one and things have worked OK, I wouldn’t worry about adding one. WiFi frequencies and LTE frequencies don’t really overlap very much at all, so they don’t need to be huge distances apart. However, most manufacturers recommend something between 3’ and 6’. With the Poynting being much smaller, you’ll also have some vertical separation. Sylvia Crain@Sylvia\_Crain↩ #16 March 07, 2022 Thanks Steve for the response back. I’ve just ordered my new equipment! Can;t wait to have better connections! Sylvia James Coffman@James\_Coffman April 02, 2022 Looking for a recommendation on the best value celluar antanae, and associated router. I have a 45ft sail boat that I race offshore. Most of our activity is within a few miles of land, but can be out as far as 5 miles when not going truly offshore. Looking for an antenae that will keep us in contact and able to download weather and other data. Have 5g sim card from ATT. James C Westport, CT Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #18 April 05, 2022 Hi James, I really couldn’t recommend an antenna without knowing more about your router, in particular the brand and model, along with the type of modem in it. Routers have differing modems which require various amounts of antenna connections which could change the type of antenna. Jeff Steinwachs@Jeff\_Steinwachs June 05, 2025 Hi Steve, I was going to ask you this question directly, but I thought it would be better to ask it in the forum since it relates to this article. And others could see the answer. You do a great job of evaluating the antennas in this article, but how would you compare the Mobility 42G with the Maritime 20G or 40G? The Mobility 42G mounting challenge would not apply in our situation with easy access to the underside. Actually, the 42G allows for a much easier installation in our situation. The antenna(s) would pair with a Peplink MAX BR2 Pro. Thanks! Jeff Steinwachs@Jeff\_Steinwachs↩ #20 June 05, 2025 Steve, You can cancel this question. I now see that your 03/22/22 article addresses this exact question. Specifically: " Compared to the Peplink Mobility 42G, the 20G and 40G do much better with lower signal areas, which I would expect given the sheer size difference. The 42G has better gain numbers for some frequencies on paper, but the overall size, design, and radiation pattern of the Maritime series will be better for a boat setup because of the constant movement and tendency to be further away from towers." Thanks for all this information! Jeff Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #21 June 05, 2025 Glad it was helpful! The big 20/40G antennas will always be better given their size over the 42G when it comes to grabbing a weak signal. However, the 42G is still pretty good, and is a lot easier to mount and deal with given its size. Pros and cons! Michael Gourlay@MiJaGou January 14, 2026 I am bringing a Pepwave MAX BR2 Pro cellular router to a sailboat, and that sailboat came with a pair of Pepwave Maritime 20G antennae on its mast, on the spreaders. I want to know which antennae cables to connect to which ports. I plan to use both 20G antennae on a single cellular modem in 4x4 MIMO mode. (I plan to use the stubby antennas for the other cellular modem.) I’ve found about a half-dozen documents and 4 or 5 forum posts that discuss related topics, but none answer this specific question. So I’m expanding my search. Anybody here know what the optimal configuration is, or how I can find it? Thanks! (Please ignore for this post the long cable runs; that is a separable concern. If I have to, I’ll eventually either move the router closer to the antennae, or I’ll just use stubby antennae for both cellular modems.) (Sorry if this reply is considered hijacking the thread; if so, I’ll make a new post.) Related posts and documents: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/5c632dc651525e01b4244068fead7c5e6a63382b.png) [Peplink Community – 2 Sep 23](https://forum.peplink.com/t/max-br1-pro-5g-and-maritime-20g-antenna-setup/44441?ref=seabits.com "09:34PM - 02 September 2023") ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/d9743ea36121d21ba6afe9334caa9ff3206ac006.svg) ### [Max br1 pro 5G and maritime 20g antenna setup](https://forum.peplink.com/t/max-br1-pro-5g-and-maritime-20g-antenna-setup/44441?ref=seabits.com) Product Discussion I recently purchased the Max BR1 Pro 5G and Maritime 20G Antenna. The Max BR1 Pro 5G has 4 antenna connectors while the Maritime 20G has two antenna cables. My question is which antenna connectors on the Max BR1 Pro 5G (A, B, C, D) do I connect... Reading time: 1 mins 🕑 Likes: 2 ❤ [download.peplink.com](https://download.peplink.com/resources/pepwave%5Fmaritime%5Fantenna%5F20G%5Fdatasheet.pdf?ref=seabits.com) ### [pepwave\_maritime\_antenna\_20G\_datasheet.pdf](https://download.peplink.com/resources/pepwave%5Fmaritime%5Fantenna%5F20G%5Fdatasheet.pdf?ref=seabits.com) 4.27 MB www.waveform dot com/a/b/guides/hotspots/peplink-max-br1-pro-5g download.peplink dot com/resources/faq-maritime\_antenna\_series.pdf www.waveform dot com/a/b/guides/hotspots/peplink-max-br2-pro-antenna-guide Michael Gourlay@MiJaGou↩ #23 January 15, 2026 New info from Peplink: Each Maritime 20G provides 2×2 MIMO. When both units are connected to the same cellular modem on the MAX BR2 Pro, they can be used together as a 4×4 MIMO antenna setup for that modem. Connect as follows (example: Cellular Modem 1): - Maritime 20G #1 - LTE/5G lead 1 → Cellular 1A - LTE/5G lead 2 → Cellular 1B - Maritime 20G #2 - LTE/5G lead 1 → Cellular 1C - LTE/5G lead 2 → Cellular 1D Notes: - Keep all four leads on the same modem (don’t split across Modem 1 and 2). - Connect one GPS lead to the BR2 GPS port; the second GPS lead can be left unused. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #24 January 15, 2026 Glad you were able to get the answer from Peplink! Sounds like you have a pretty good setup. Hope it works out! Michael Gourlay@MiJaGou↩ #25 January 18, 2026 Yep. I tested this configuration, and it seemed to work. I didn’t test permutations of this to see if any other worked better, but I figured Peplink knows what they’re talking about, and their suggestion worked at least as well as the stubby paddle antennae. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #26 January 18, 2026 It’s good you tested different connections. I’ve found that the recommended cabling can work most of the time, but boats are fickle in particular with locations and interference. Length of cables is also a big factor - I usually recommend no longer than 30’ from the router to the antenna including all cabling. And every joint or connector adds additional loss. When you’re only seeing 2-3dB of gain from an antenna, those losses matter. ### A few days at Oro Bay URL: https://seabits.com/a-few-days-at-oro-bay/ Last updated: 2026-03-24T23:45:58.000Z Having grown up in the South [Salish Sea](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salish%5FSea?ref=seabits.com), I spent a lot of time at various anchorages and spots that are still fun to visit. One of my all time favorites is Oro Bay, and I was there earlier this year with some friends and had the opportunity to fly the drone and explore via dinghy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Gig-Harbor-sunset-1.jpeg) After a nice overnight in my hometown of Gig Harbor, and a beautiful sunset, we headed south towards the Narrows Bridge. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Conundrum-under-narrows.jpg) M/V Conundrum behind me under the Narrows Bridges I was cruising with friends on [M/V Conundrum](https://www.instagram.com/mvconundrum/?ref=seabits.com) on this trip, and always love taking photos of the Narrows Bridge with boats underneath. We had very calm and sunny weather for the majority of our trip. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-Bay-chart1.png) Oro Bay is located on the southern tip of Anderson Island about 14 nautical miles south of Gig Harbor. A lot of charts call both the outer and inner bays by the same name, but there are actually two distinct bays - one less protected one to the east, and the inner one to the west - our goal and spot for the next few days. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-Bay-chart2.png) The challenge with Oro Bay is the entrance, which is not that difficult, but can be intimidating if you've never been there before. The charts are also woefully lacking in detail both for the entrance, and the bay itself. What you can see that are important when entering are the three buoys. A red "2" should be kept well to starboard when entering, and you should pass in between the green "3" and red "4" buoys. It's also generally a good idea to avoid zero and especially minus tides for entering the bay. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-charts-detailed.jpeg) One thing that I've always noticed about the charts here is how inaccurate they are for the entrance as well as the bay inside. Craig off of M/V Conundrum had a neat portable WiFi depth sounder we used to connect to Navionics on our iPhone/iPads so we could get more detailed depth results. I'm sure the folks at anchor thought we were crazy going around and around in lines with the dinghy creating this updated map. What it does show is that the bottom is quite a bit different than the standard charts for the entrance, with less room near the red "2" buoy, plenty of depth between the other two. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/IMG_4335.jpeg) The other nice thing that this shows is how much more room there is in the bay itself. The older charts (scroll up) show the shoreline coming much further out, while the updated depth info shows 10' at zero tide even further in. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-drone-entrance-low.jpg) Oro Bay entrance buoys Here's a drone view of the entrance along with the buoys circled. You can see the shallows just to the right of the first buoy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-drone-overhead-entrance.jpg) Oro Bay entrance from above One of my favorite things to do with the drone is to get shots of water and land with the right sunlight, light angle, and water clarity. It provides a spectacular view as to the shoreline, shallows, and contours underwater. Above you can see the first buoy on the left, and then the two inner buoys in about the center of the photo. What's really cool is how clear the shoals are near both sets of buoys. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-drone-two-buoys-overhead-1.jpg) The shoal to the left of the green "3" buoy is quite easily seen from above. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-drone-entrance-wide.jpg) Oro Bay from above Here's a clearer view of the entire entrance and a portion of the bay. The various shorelines both underwater and otherwise are just wonderful to see from above! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Rendezvous-with-ferry-in-background.jpeg) Rendezvous at anchor in Oro Bay One of the things folks love seeing in Oro Bay is the abandoned ferry in the south west corner. The Seattle Times had a [story on the ferry](https://archive.seattletimes.com/archive/?date=19930826&slug=1717814&ref=seabits.com) a number of years ago. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-drone-ferry.jpg) There is quite a bit of area to explore via dinghy around the bay including the ferry and a bunch of little coves and inlets. In addition to the ferry, the bay hosts three yacht club docks - [Oro Bay Yacht Club](https://www.orobayyachtclub.org/?ref=seabits.com), [Bremerton Yacht Club Outstation](https://bremertonyachtclub.org/content.aspx?page%5Fid=22&club%5Fid=725463&module%5Fid=325744&ref=seabits.com) and [Tacoma Yacht Club Outstation](https://www.tacomayachtclub.org/Facilities/Outstations/Oro%5Fbay?ref=seabits.com) which you can see in the far right of the photo. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-porthole.jpeg) We were in Oro Bay for 4 days or so, and had wonderful weather and sunsets. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-drone-looking-back-line-of-boats.jpg) Oro Bay looking South I was able to fly the drone a bit later during our trip during a very low tide. You'll notice how all of the boats anchored are in a line, which is a funny happenstance. Also, going back to the depth charts, we definitely could have gotten closer to the shoreline on the right of the picture as it goes much further in than the older charts show. In the background of the photo above you see the Nisqually river delta and [National Wildlife Refuge](https://www.fws.gov/refuge/billy%5Ffrank%5Fjr%5Fnisqually/?ref=seabits.com) which has been [undergoing restoration](https://www.nisquallydeltarestoration.org/?ref=seabits.com) for many years. It is a fantastic place to walk around, although not reachable via boat from the water side. In addition, there are a number of shipwrecks that are visible at low tide along the delta and make a great day trip via dinghy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-drone-from-end-back.jpg) The bay is quite large, but the north end gets very shallow. There is a fairly sizable trawler fully in the mud about the middle right of the photo tied up to the dock! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-drone-looking-to-end.jpg) Oro Bay looking North There is plenty of space both in the main southern portion of the bay, but also up the narrower middle part for anchoring. Again, there is more space there compared to what the charts say, but I wouldn't anchor any further back than where the catamaran is in this photo unless you have a shallow draft. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-drone-entrance-high-looking-back.jpg) You can see in this photo that some of the boats further into the bay are pretty close to the bottom - or at least you can see the bottom showing up lightly in the photo. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Rendezvous-arch-sunset.jpeg) Sunny view from Rendezvous I love Oro Bay because of how quiet it is, the smells of the nearby grasses and farms, and all of the wildlife that seems to come and go through the year. I have seen more birds here than just about anywhere I can think of, and seals seem to be prevalent and curious here too. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/jacobspointmap.jpeg) The [Jacobs Point Park](http://www.anderson-island.org/parks/jacobspoint.html?ref=seabits.com) surrounds one part of the bay and is a great place to explore. I've beached my dinghy near the "Beach Access" spot and been able to go ashore and walk around. There are several other spots to the left of that beach (you can see a dinghy in some of the drone shots) that can be used as well. Around the right side of the park and back into the inlet is also a wonderful spot to kayak or paddle board and watch the wildlife. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Dinghy-marine-park1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Dinghy-marine-park2.jpeg) Andy's Marine Park We decided to circumnavigate Anderson Island via dinghy one of the days we were there, and found a wonderful marine park named [Andy's Marine Park](http://www.anderson-island.org/parks/andymarine.html?ref=seabits.com) on the west side of the island. It's an 81 acre park with a cove, inlets, foot bridges, and wonderful beaches. I would like to go back and spend more time exploring! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Dinghy-clouds.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Dinghy-birdwall2.jpeg) There were lots of other things to see on the circumnavigation including a few cool bays, birds, and of course [Eagle Island Marine Park](https://parks.state.wa.us/501/Eagle-Island?ref=seabits.com) on the north east side of the island, which I [visited back in 2016 on Grace](https://seabits.com/tacoma-eagle-island/) and is another one of my favorite spots down here. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Dinghy-labcab.jpeg) Mt. Rainier in the background of our dinghy trip Mt. Rainier is prevalent in the south sound, and seems much closer than it does even from Seattle. From outer Oro Bay, or even the entrance, you can usually get some pretty good pictures of the mountain. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Oro-bay-sunset.jpeg) Sunset on the final evening I've pulled up some weird stuff in Oro Bay over the years on my anchor. One time it was a huge hunk of piling, and another some weird thick line. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Conundrum-anchor-junk.jpeg) This time around it wasn't my turn - Conundrum pulled up a huge amount of kelp that took some time to release. Oro Bay is one of my top destinations in the South Salish Sea, and I always try to visit at least a couple of times a year. As long as you enter on a non-zero tide, and follow the buoys, you'll have no problem enjoying this wonderful little anchorage! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 7 comments Kevin McLaughlin@WallaceGrommet November 05, 2021 Without those shoals and bars, Oro Bay wouldn’t be so calm and snug! Richard\_Gard@Richard\_Gard November 06, 2021 Thanks for the drone photos with the bottom contours. Convincing display of a perfect snug harbor. I always appreciate your well researched and presented trips and gear talks. One of the very best on the entire web. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 November 06, 2021 Thanks for the kind words! The photos are very revealing! mgfite98034@mgfite98034 November 07, 2021 I did not know about Oro Bay. Thanks for the tip! SteveM@SteveM November 22, 2021 Great story. Lots of helpful information here. Thank you. You inspired me to visit this coming weekend, but I’m hoping to pickup a college football game one night. What’s the cell service like there? I know your cell reception will be better than mine but we have a PepLink and External Signal booster currently. New and better setup coming in the future as we follow your recommendations. Thanks again…great site. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 November 22, 2021 Hi [@SteveM](https://seabits.com/u/stevem), That particular location can be hard to get a good signal without an outdoor antenna. Your booster should help, but try it without the booster too - you might be OK without it. [![image](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/1777088fd788984b907645dc1c43c36020bd30da.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/1777088fd788984b907645dc1c43c36020bd30da.png?ref=seabits.com "image") I had the best results with Verizon and AT&T. T-Mobile was not very usable at all. SteveM@SteveM November 22, 2021 Thank again Steve. Appreciate your help. ### Netgear Nighthawk 5G first impressions URL: https://seabits.com/netgear-nighthawk-5g/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:29:39.000Z The [Netgear Nighthawk 5G](https://www.netgear.com/home/mobile-wifi/hotspots/mr5200/?ref=seabits.com) is the newest version of the venerable Nighthawk hotspot line. I've had one for a bit over a month, and have some first impressions and thoughts. I'm a big fan of the Nighthawk series, having used them for a number of years. They are very powerful, have great battery life, and a good set of features. Their cellular radios are usually some of the first to market with the newest band support, and the 5G version continues that trend...sort of... ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Screen1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Screen2.jpeg) There are currently two versions of the Nighthawk 5G in the US market at the time of this article - one that is unlocked, and one that is locked to AT&T. I'm using the unlocked one. I purchased mine directly from Netgear at a cost of $699.99\. It was only available from them at the time of purchase, but may be available elsewhere now. This is probably my biggest concern with the product if you purchase it outright, and not through a carrier with a discount. Previous Nighthawk hotspots at full retail price were around the $299 price tag. 5G is definitely the newest technology, and with delays and shortages in the supply chain, I expect some things to increase in price, but at more than double the price, it's hard to understand where that increase comes from. Even if you [purchase it from AT&T](https://www.att.com/buy/connected-devices-and-more/nighthawk-5g-mobile-hotspot-pro-black.html?ref=seabits.com), locked to their network, they still charge you $509.99, which isn't a big discount. ## General Specs & Battery ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Netgear-Nighthawk-5g.jpeg) The Nighthawk 5G supports WiFi 6 and, of course, 5G. For 5G, it sports an LTE CAT 20 radio which is 4x4 MIMO and 6X carrier aggregation. Here are the bands that it supports: - 5G: n2/n5/n25/n41/n66/n71/n78 - LTE: B1/B2/B3/B4/B5/B7/B12/B13/B14/B25/B29/ B30/B38/B41/B46/B48/B66/B71 - 3G: B1/B2/B5/B8 Compare this to Peplink's soon to be available MAX BR1 Pro 5G or even the MAX Transit 5G, and there are a few bands missing both in the 5G and LTE/4G range. However, many of the top used ones are there, and that bodes well for general use. If you are looking for better band support across both 4G and 5G bands, I would look elsewhere. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Netgear-Nighthawk-5G-ports.jpeg) Netgear Nighthawk 5G ports In addition to the updated WiFi and LTE hardware, the Nighthawk has the same TS9 antenna ports in the event you want to use an external antenna, and it also has an ethernet port for connecting a computer, or in my case, connecting it to a downstream router. I love this about the last few Nighthawk hotspots, as I am not interested in connecting to their WiFi network to use them, and would rather have them as an additional LTE source connected to a Peplink router. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Netgear-Nighthawk-battery.jpeg) The whole thing is powered by a USB-C power brick and has a decent sized 19.40Wh battery. One of the best parts of the Nighthawk series is the ability to run the hotspot **without** the battery and just using the power supply, and the 5G model works the same way. Many hotspots have had issues being plugged in 24x7 and have had shutdown or battery failure issues. Being able to run the Nighthawk without the battery is a great option for a permanent hotspot. ## Features & Administration ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/LTE-status.png) The web interface is quite good and has lots of options and status screens. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/LTE-detailed-status.png) The Diagnostics page under Status shows a lot of useful info on the LTE connection as well as the battery, and was helpful in determining the signal strength and band information, but only for 4G LTE. 5G connection information did not seem to work on this firmware version. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Firmware.png) I did get one firmware update very soon after I booted the unit up the first time, but did not see any updates in the month or so I tested with it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/app1-1.jpeg) There is a great mobile app for both iOS and Android and provides a streamlined way to manage the device that is similar to the web interface. This has been around a while and works with other Netgear products. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/app3-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/app2-1.jpeg) The touch screen is nice and works reasonably well. Not all items that are in the web interface or app are available on the touch screen, but it can be useful for quick status info and simple changes. The WiFi setup is pretty easy, and the performance of the 5Ghz network in particular is quite nice with WiFi 6 support. There are various options for guest networks, 2.4Ghz vs 5Ghz and many other settings that you can customize. The WiFi signal was pretty strong, at least similar to previous Nighthawks, and I didn't have any issues from most places on the boat with the router in a central location. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Always-on-wifi.png) One set of neat features is the Always On WiFi and Data Offload functions. They are mutually exclusive, so you have to choose one. Always On WiFi allows you to use the Ethernet port on the router for your primary internet connection, and the router will fail over to LTE when Ethernet is unavailable. Data Offloading allows you to use the WiFi radio to connect to another WiFi source for internet, saving LTE until that connection fails. These features could be used to leverage the Nighthawk as a backup to an existing connection. Similar features have existed in other Nighthawk variants, and even the older MR1100 modem I wrote about a few years ago. ## Performance This is where things get a bit interesting. I'll break things down by the three US carriers I used for testing. In all cases, I am using hotspot or router plans with no restrictions other than a monthly data limit, and all have 5G support enabled. I used a cabled computer directly connected to the Ethernet port on the router. In general, it was difficult to determine signal strength, particular bands and other important information to determine the various carriers and performance. The web interface doesn't include all of the information that is available on the display screen, and the info on the screen is sometimes mysteriously blank. ### T-Mobile ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Netgear-Nighthawk-5G-speeds-1.jpeg) T-Mobile performance T-Mobile outperformed all other carriers in my testing. In the central Puget Sound area, I was able to get a strong 5G signal and excellent performance. This ranged from 150Mbps-275Mbps download speeds, and around 10Mbps upload speeds. The concerning items include much higher latency, which is somewhat expected on transitional 5G networks, and a much smaller upload bandwidth than similar 4G LTE networks on T-Mobile. I assume over time this may improve as T-Mobile improves their backend network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/TMO-slower-speeds.jpeg) When the 5G signal is very strong, you get excellent download speeds. Even with a slight decrease in that signal, I noticed significant performance decreases, dropping the download throughput much lower. Strangely, at some of these points the upload bandwidth would increase. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/TMO-data-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/TMO-data-2.jpeg) T-Mobile status information You can see from the status pages that I was connected to a 5G network (5GSUB6) but at the time, there was no connection quality information (RSRP/RSRQ) and only RS-SINR data. I'm using LTE Band 66 according to the second screen. Keep in mind that this is a 5G network using frequencies below 6Ghz (5G Sub 6) and is not the type of 5G network (mmWave) you'd see in a metro area with amazing speeds. It's unlikely you will ever see mmWave with any frequency on a boat because of how short that type of 5G network will travel. This is a subject for another article that I have planned soon. There were also many times when I saw a 5G signal on the hotspot, but only observed 4G performance. This was very common in the San Juan Islands and other more remote areas. ### Verizon ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Verizon-perf-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Verizon-perf-2.jpeg) With Verizon I was able to get a 5G signal, but the overall performance paled in comparison to T-Mobile. As you can see above, even with a very strong signal, I was not getting anywhere near what you would expect with 5G. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Verizon-stats-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Verizon-stats-2.jpeg) The same status issues existed while testing Verizon with RSRP and RSRQ showing blank, and RS-SINR showing an obviously wrong bit of data. Again I am connected to Band 66 using a 5G Sub 6 connection. ### AT&T ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/ATT-speeds.jpeg) AT&T 4G LTE speeds! AT&T was the weirdest of all of the carriers, mainly because I was never able to get a stable 5G signal. In most cases, I never saw anything more than 4G LTE, which is similar to what I've seen in testing the Peplink MAX Transit 5G. I've heard from some other users having the same issues. However, as you can see from above, the download performance is still quite good, and far beyond what I've seen with a CAT12 or CAT18 LTE modem on any other platform using 4G LTE. I suspect this is due to the CAT20 modem and 6x carrier aggregation. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/ATT-data-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/ATT-data-2.jpeg) I've also noticed that the signal strength indicators seem to work when connected to LTE versus 5G. Above you can see I have a good connection to LTE Band 30 on AT&T's network. The other example shows a test in the San Juan Islands where I was connecting using a more traditional Band 12. This is one of the frustrating things with the Nighthawk 5G - the lack of clear and detailed information on bands and connection quality. I'm hoping this will be fixed in a future firmware update, but for now it can be somewhat limiting. ### External Antennas Using the venerable [Netgear MIMO antenna](https://amzn.to/3BQ20BM?ref=seabits.com) provided better performance for both 4G and 5G, but given the frequencies it covers, I suspect that 5G might not benefit as much depending on the bands in use. The benefit was between 10-20% when used. I also used connectors from the TS9 antenna ports on the unit to both Poynting and Peplink external antennas. Both of these antennas provided significant benefits to both performance and range in situations with low signal levels. I'm not 100% sure, but I suspect that the two TS9 ports are only 2 of the 4 antennas inside the unit. This could mean that the secondary bands aren't getting the benefit of the external antenna. That might affect carrier aggregation and overall throughput, but not affect general connectivity in low signal areas. Regardless, the unit performs better with an external antenna. ## Pros - 5G speeds - when you can get them - Excellent WiFi performance + WiFi 6 - Good management and other useful features - Can be run without the battery ## Cons - Price - Less 5G and 4G band support than other mobile routers - Broken status information for 5G - AT&T 5G is hard to find ## Conclusion The Netgear Nighthawk 5G is a good hotspot, and the next evolution of a venerable line of Nighthawks before it, but I can't really recommend it right now. Not only is it overpriced, but for a boat, 5G just isn't the game changer yet that folks are hoping for. For the $699 price, you can spend a bit more and get a more usable and feature-packed Peplink router, or buy two cheaper hotspots and have redundancy. The limited antenna ports mean that longer term use with external antennas is better suited to mobile specific routers. If you are in a metro area with prevalent 5G connectivity, the Nighthawk 5G could be useful for you if you require higher performance than 4G LTE and have the cash to spend. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 15 comments Perry Stanfield @Perry\_Stanfield October 25, 2021 Hi Steve, regarding the Netgear Nighthawk-- price is relative; perhaps features justify the price but that seems really expensive. T Mobile is making some real headway in Whatcom County coverage; I signed my mother up for their Internet Access Device (Tall Cylinder) at $50 per month for data and device with a free two week trial. Unlimited, unthrottled data, I was stunned at the performance in Lynden: 250-300 MB/S down, 20-30 up. I can’t help but wonder how this device might perform on a boat, although that would limit you to T Mobile. Steve Mitchell@steve October 27, 2021 Hi [@Perry\_Stanfield](https://seabits.com/u/perry%5Fstanfield), It is very expensive for what it is. If you need a hotspot, and need 5G and the speeds that come with it, maybe it is worth it for that particular use case. If you look on the costs for Peplink routers that support 5G, they are quite expensive as well, but there is a lot more flexibility with those products. Thanks for the performance report on T-Mobile. They are quite fast in the north sound! Hans Ericsson@Hans\_Ericsson October 30, 2021 Hi Steve, I came across your review whilst researching my own Netgear Nighthawk setup, which is… shall we say, still in development! As I’m pulling my hair out (what’s left of it) I wonder if you could offer me some tips on completing the setup of my boat home network. I currently have a Nighthawk M1 4G router which has been working as a LAN wifi hotspot for our devices on board. I recently purchased a Ubiquity Bullet M2HP Wifi booster, which runs on POE. My hope was to plug in the Ethernet end of the Bullet into the Nighthawk and use the Data Offloading function to limit our 4G data usage when there are public wifi networks available. However, the two devices do not seem to agree who is boss, and both want to act as routers. I’ve tried a number of different solutions, but none seem to work smoothly. Do you have any experience with these products and do you have any general thoughts about how to approach this? Would it be preferable to use a separate dedicated router as the hub for my LAN and plug the Nighthawk and Bullet into this router instead? It’s all very confusing I’m afraid. Steve Mitchell@steve October 30, 2021 Hi [@Hans\_Ericsson](https://seabits.com/u/hans%5Fericsson), Have you tried using the Bullet M2HP standalone? UniFi/UI/Ubiquiti got out of producing the Bullet series in the traditional form a few years ago, and the ones that still exist aren’t usable for anything other than point-to-point connections to **other** Ubiquiti products. Perhaps that is what you’re using it for? If you aren’t and intended on grabbing remote WiFi signals, it’s possible you have one of the newer units that won’t do that… A Bullet or similar device should work if connected to the Nighthawk LAN port and with offloading enabled. Even though the Bullet might be doing normal router functions, it’s only client is the Nighthawk, and not your end clients directly. There’s also an option to turn things like the Bullet into “bridge” mode where they act as a client, and not a full fledged router, which I’ve done with devices connected into the Nighthawk, but it does take a bit more networking skill. I personally would go the route you brought up - a central router for your local network, and have the Bullet and Nighthawk plugged into that router as WAN sources. That way you can upgrade your Nighthawk at some point down the road, or add a second one, and not have to reconfigure or mess with things. Hans Ericsson@Hans\_Ericsson October 31, 2021 Hi Steve, I haven’t tried using the Bullet as a stand alone router. It was sold to me as a Wifi booster for marine use, and there is software integration in the product that allows me to connect to whatever Wifi signal I can pick up with the antenna. I have verified that it is possible to transmit data over the Bullet in bridge mode, but the problem is getting the system to operate smoothly without having to do major reconfigurations every time I want to connect to a Wifi network. The Nighthawk settings need to be changed via the web client every time I want to try to connect to a new wifi network and can’t be changed from within the Netgear app itself. For some reason I have to first turn off the Data Offloading, then access the Bullet and establish a connection, and then turn the Data Offloading back on. Overall it is super annoying. I think I’ll try to go the route you suggested and purchase a central WAN router and see how that goes. Thanks again, Hans Steve Mitchell@steve October 31, 2021 That sounds pretty normal - having to do machinations to configure the Bullet in bridge, then turning data offloading off, etc. Definitely not a unified, simple management solution. Hope a central router makes that easier! Steve Mitchell@steve November 06, 2021 [![image](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/29c2825991df7cafaa3c18505ab5e00eab605987.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/29c2825991df7cafaa3c18505ab5e00eab605987.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "image") I did some additional testing with T-Mobile in the last couple of days. I was in a very high signal strength area with excellent 5G coverage. As you can see from the speedtest screenshot, it worked pretty well! One of the highest results I’ve ever seen from any cellular device. Patrick Bouldin@Patrick\_Bouldin June 02, 2022 Hey Steve, I need the external antenna so that I can keep the M1 1100 inside the house, and keep it cool. I get great speed when the unit is outside, but Texas heat will kill the unit. I see that I am using the B30 band as your mentioned, do you know if there is a netgear router that both operates on the B30 band, but that also allows use of the two TS9 external antenna connections? What I have now does not. This is make or break. Thanks, Patrick Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 June 04, 2022 Hi [@Patrick\_Bouldin](https://seabits.com/u/patrick%5Fbouldin), Most of the newer Netgear routers support band 30\. I know the [Netgear Nighthawk 5G first impressions](https://seabits.com/netgear-nighthawk-5g/) that I wrote about does, and has external antenna connectors. Patrick Bouldin@Patrick\_Bouldin↩ #11 June 04, 2022 Thanks, but just to clarify/confirm. My M1 has both TS9s, but according to what I’ve found, some of the supported bands do not use the TS9 connectors. In other words it won’t try the TS9 port if those particular bands are connected. I called Netgear about this but still not getting anywhere. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 June 14, 2022 Understood. I had heard that some of the bands don’t use the external antenna connectors. It makes sense, since standard CAT-18 and CAT-20/5G modems require 4x4 antenna elements, and the TS9 connectors are ostensibly only 2x2\. That would mean some weird coverage issues and potential bands not on the external antennas due to the way things are wired. If a particular band is required, the only way you could really guarantee that is either with a booster (not great) or with a different router with proper external antenna connectors. Chris Wagner@jwag August 13, 2022 Hi Steve - thanks for the incredible articles on choosing mobile hotspots, plans, routers etc. As of 8/13/22 Amazon is listing this at >$800! If I don’t need anything fancy - is there any reason (compatibility, bands, etc) that would make going with the M1/MR1100 a bad idea? (which is also crazy expensive right now) Thanks! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 August 13, 2022 jwag: > As of 8/13/22 Amazon is listing this at >$800! If I don’t need anything fancy - is there any reason (compatibility, bands, etc) that would make going with the M1/MR1100 a bad idea? (which is also crazy expensive right now) Well, the biggest difference would be that the M1/MR1100 is 4G and not 5G so it would definitely have a performance impact and not support any of the 5G bands. I still love both versions - they’re very reliable and well made products. Chris Wagner@jwag↩ #15 August 14, 2022 Thanks - yes I realize it’s 4G! Trying to overcome really bad wireless at our marina (and others) - need good connectivity, not huge bandwidth… Any idea what on earth is causing the major price increases (of even the M1?) Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #16 August 15, 2022 I’m going to guess it is the usual reason that is driving up prices elsewhere - supply chain issues. I haven’t heard anything in particular around Netgear’s products. I do know a lot of the other mobile-specific vendors are feeling pressure from Starlink and are actually dropping their prices, so this particular one doesn’t make that much sense… ### New Verizon data plans URL: https://seabits.com/new-verizon-data-plans/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:32:31.000Z --- Verizon has announced new data plans ranging from 5GB to 150GB for both pre-paid and post-paid customers that work in hotspots and routers. Post-paid has been available since August, while pre-paid was just announced a week ago. - [Pre-paid](https://www.verizon.com/prepaid/data-only-plans/?ref=seabits.com) - [Post-paid](https://www.verizon.com/plans/devices/hotspots/?ref=seabits.com) There are some differences between pre-paid and post-paid, including items like 5G support, among other things. For instance, the post-paid Pro and Premium plans also include access to Verizon's 5G Ultra Wideband network with 4K streaming, while the Essential plan has 720p streaming only and no 5G access. Make sure you read the fine print under each level - for most people you will want to go for the highest plan anyhow, which includes all of the features in most cases. ### Ordering challenges I had difficulties ordering mine online with all sorts of funky errors from Verizon's site about invalid addresses. Using the iPhone app was flawless, and worked the first time. I've had many reports from customers that this happened to them as well. ### Peplink routers seem to work Keep in mind that this has only been tested with a handful of routers and devices, and that your mileage may vary. I've tried the Peplink MAX Transit, Peplink MAX HD2, Peplink MAX HD4 MBX, and Peplink MAX HD1 Dome. If you go through the process online, Verizon will ask for your IMEI, which you can find in your router/device, and will validate whether it will work with their network. Some newer hardware has been reported as not being supported, but could change as it becomes more mainstream. I've had more luck with pre-paid over post-paid in terms of various hardware. ### Testing I've done my usual testing and have seen the same performance out of this plan/SIM as my other Verizon plans. Post-paid will always have an advantage over pre-paid in terms of network management - Verizon tends to slow down pre-paid first, and leave post-paid alone unless something really bad is happening. This is why I would recommend post-paid over pre-paid given how close the costs are. ### Throttling These plans have a hard cap of whatever GB you select, so once you exceed your monthly quota, you will be throttled down to very slow speeds - usually 3Mbps with 5G connections (hard to get on most modern mobile routers) and 3G speeds on LTE connections - the latter is almost unusable. The folks over at the Mobile Internet Resource Center have two detailed articles on both of these plans if you are interested in more details: ![](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/cropped-MIRC_Favicon-270x270.png) ![](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/cropped-MIRC_Favicon-270x270.png) ### Other Plans & Providers If you're interested in other providers, you can find my recommendations below. ![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png) This is fantastic news as we now finally have decent high data monthly data plans from all three major US carriers! If you have been waiting for a Verizon plan, this is a great one to consider. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 9 comments CascadeBoater@David\_Medd October 22, 2021 Just FYI, I tried to buy the premium online with an IMEA from the PepLunk MAX BR1 Pro 5G and Verizon is giving me a not supported error on both pre paid and post paid. t-mo accepted it no problem. Going to head into a local store on my way to the boat tomorrow to see if they have better luck. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 October 23, 2021 Hi [@David\_Medd](https://seabits.com/u/david%5Fmedd), I’m going to guess it is because The BR1 Pro 5G is a brand new product from Peplink, and Verizon doesn’t have it in their system. It always takes them a little bit to do that, and usually because someone with the new product calls in and tries to activate it Hopefully you’ll have better luck in person! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 October 27, 2021 Hi [@David\_Medd](https://seabits.com/u/david%5Fmedd) \- did you get your BR1 Pro 5G activated or working with Verizon? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 November 02, 2021 Just as a follow up, I have a MAX BR1 Pro 5G working with several Verizon plans including the one I believe [@David\_Medd](https://seabits.com/u/david%5Fmedd) was trying to activate. Verizon must now have the BR1 Pro 5G in their systems. Yay! Jeff@nestorjw↩ #6 January 18, 2022 Anything special you had to do in order to activate? Verizon today told me that they don’t support this device… bkcorwin@bkcorwin↩ #7 January 18, 2022 Bummer, would like to know the answer to this too. Mine is slated to arrive later this week. bkcorwin@bkcorwin January 18, 2022 [https://forum.peplink.com/t/verizon-certification-status-(2022)/36934/2](https://forum.peplink.com/t/verizon-certification-status-%282022%29/36934/2?ref=seabits.com) suggests January sometime for final approval. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 January 19, 2022 nestorjw: > Anything special you had to do in order to activate? Verizon today told me that they don’t support this device… It is pretty common for Verizon to say they “don’t support” something. In fact, all of the providers do this at one point or another because they want you to buy their stuff, or their front line support folks legitimately are told that these IMEI’s/products aren’t supported. I’ve been using mine since it came out on Verizon. I think for the first 1-2 weeks it was hard to get it to work for some of us because they legitimately hadn’t ever seen it in the wild, but it was working after that. If you try to activate a new line of service in a router, as I’ve mentioned before in posts and such, it can be a pain. Some of their systems will stop when you get to the IMEI stage and not allow you to proceed if it is not one of their core devices that they sell. The way around this is to use a hotspot or other Verizon supported device to do the activation. This is why when I get a new plan through Verizon, I usually get one of their hotspots on whatever promotion they have, and then keep that as a backup, but also a way to activate. It might sound like a lot of work but it can save you hours on the phone with someone who doesn’t even understand what a mobile router is. Being supported and being certified are two different things in most cases. Gaining certification means that the device has gone through testing by the provider to ensure that there aren’t any weird interactions on their network, that they can on board the product, and a lot more beyond that. Verizon is usually one of the slowest to certify things, so it’s not surprising that it’s still pending for them. Verizon may have also chosen to block new activations from the BR1 until it is certified, so my note above about activating a new line on something else would potentially get around that. Finally, there is always the possibility that the plan you’re trying to use, if it happens to be different than the one I cited above in the original article, could have restrictions too. All providers have done this at some point. T-Mobile did this here [Problems with T-Mobile voice+data plans and Peplink CAT18](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/) where they prevented specific plans from using a voice plan to do data-only stuff. They prevented activation for some of us trying to use it, and if they were already activated, prevented the device from actually being able to send data. It sounds like this is just the activation side of things, which you should be able to get around by using another device - my plan is still working just fine with it. Hartley Gardner@Hartley November 25, 2023 Hi All, Reviving this antique post I just went through a week of Customer Service hell trying to get Verizon to accept my new Peplink MAX BR1 Mini. All the lower level reps just stopped at the error (which tells them that the device is not supported) and then started trying to upsell me - except Verizon doesn’t sell anything of interest to us boaters! They think an LTE router is for “home” use, so they wanted to sell me a “home internet” package - but asking them where it would work as we sailed around pretty much stopped their clocks. “Atlantic Ocean” wasn’t working as a home address… I finally got a savvy tech who pushed a new SIM number (which he had to forcibly instruct the Store folks to give me) through using my really olde MiFi device IMEI. This worked, and my Mini popped to life! I note that today (36 hours in) the device description and IMEI on my account are correct. The “customer service” experience was NOT fun - so I’m seriously considering taking our 4 lines and moving to T-Mobile – cheaper, can handle an LTE Router, and it works in the Bahamas! They do force a plan on the router that is not “unlimited”, but it still works if you hit the wall, just slower. Hartley S/V Atsa ## ### Working remotely from the boat URL: https://seabits.com/working-remotely-from-the-boat/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:31:40.000Z Having a reliable internet setup is key to staying connected while on the water, but being able to work from the boat adds some additional challenges. I've done it for years, and have found a number of things that help make it easy to do while providing a quality experience. ## My requirements Everyone's requirements for working remotely are slightly different, and can result in a cheaper/more expensive or simpler/more complicated solution. Here is my particular use case: **Office applications** – I use Microsoft Office 365 and Google G Suite for email and documents all the time. Being able to send and receive email quickly, manage my calendar, and work on documents or presentations is very important. I don't want to have to download things offline or shuffle things to other places. **Chat** – I use Slack extensively, along with Microsoft Teams, for chatting, group chats, and file sharing and collaboration. **Video** – My primary communication method is Zoom, along with Teams video calls, sometimes some FaceTime calls, and then voice calls on the cell phone. These things must work as if I were at home connected to a land-based internet connection. That means: - No video weirdness or loss of video / audio - Speedy response within Slack/Teams - Excellent video in Zoom/Teams - Quality phone calls - Connected during work hours reliably ## My Current Setup These are the primary things I've focused on to make my remote work situation the best possible. - Modular marine system - 2 cellular connections + remote WiFi - Redundancy – SpeedFusion - Good local WiFi - Controlling Usage ### Modular marine system If you need to work remotely, consider spending an appropriate amount of money to ensure you have a reliable setup, and that it is specifically designed to use with a mobile or marine environment. This includes a DC-powered router/access point, outdoor antennas, and features that support redundancy and performance. Using a tethered cell phone really won't cut it for my use case, and while hotspots or MiFi devices might work OK, there's no redundancy, and limited external antenna choices. If you need to be connected as reliably as I do, it's worth spending $1000-3000 to get something you won't have to mess with. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/Pepwave-MAX-Transit-CAT18-antenna-ports-1024x768.jpeg) I would recommend a system with at least 2x cellular connections, some sort of way to grab remote WiFi signals, and a good local WiFi access point. I personally go one step further and have the following pieces: - Main router such as a Peplink MAX Transit Duo or MBX responsible for cellular connections and WiFi-as-WAN (remote WiFi) - Outdoor antennas from Peplink or Poynting for LTE and WiFI - High quality cabling, as short as possible, between main router and antennas - WiFi access points such as the [AP One Rugged](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-AP-One-Rugged-Wireless-Access-Point-2022-model%5Fp%5F121.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) that are distributed in key areas around the boat ### 2 or more connections + remote WiFi The most important thing to consider is having at least 2 methods of connectivity at any point. This can be WiFi and cellular or two cellular connections, but in any case, you need two of them to be usable at almost all times, if not 100% of the time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/peplink-multiple-lte-1024x356.png) Peplink with multiple LTE and WiFi connections The main reason for this is reliability. Marina or public WiFi systems are [notoriously bad as I've written about many times before](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/), and will ebb and flow in terms of speed and reliability. This is especially true in the summer months when more boaters are visiting these locations and stressing out the infrastructure. Cellular has proven in the last few years to be the most reliable solution for coastal cruisers, but it can still have challenges. If you're anchored, your boat can move causing signal issues and adding latency, which will affect the connection. Having **2 cellular radios** and at least **2 cellular plans** is the norm for most customers that I work with nowadays. When arriving in an anchorage, you can test the two connections and flip between providers until you know which one will work for you. Having 3 providers (in the US, the most common are T-Mobile, AT&T and Verizon) makes it even better, as you can choose the two that work the best and know you have some redundancy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/WiFi-as-WAN-1024x496.png) I also use remote WiFi a decent amount but always combined with a cellular connection. This can save data off of other cellular plans, and in some cases if the remote WiFi is decent, can be used alone with priority fall backs to cellular. I have two outdoor WiFi antennas dedicated to capturing the remote WiFi signal, but you could also use the [MikroTik Groove](https://seabits.com/?s=mikrotik+groove) connected to a WAN ethernet port on a router. The most popular solution for this is the Peplink MAX Transit DUO which has two cellular radios, WiFi-as-WAN, and WiFi/ethernet connectivity for your local network. The challenge with this product is the age of the cellular radios, which are a bit older than the newest available. However, if working remotely and having a stable connection is your priority, this is one of the best solutions available right now. Finding cellular providers is usually the hardest part of all of this, and is critical to having a reliable setup. Relying on a single cellular provider is not a great idea – if you are truly away from docks or in more remote areas, you will need two cellular providers. Sometimes, an anchorage will only have good performance for one of them, or you will want two for full redundancy. In other cases, providers have outages and without a backup plan, you'll have to move or go without connectivity. [Finding a cellular data plan for your boatOne of the biggest challenges with staying connected on the water is finding an appropriate cellular data plan. Before you embark on buying a new router, cabling, or anything else…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/andrey-metelev-6LwmMV15Ug4-unsplash-1.jpg)](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/) ### SpeedFusion – Redundancy & Optimization SpeedFusion is a technology provided on Peplink routers that has been very popular the last year with the release of [SpeedFusion Cloud](https://www.peplink.com/software/speedfusion-cloud/?ref=seabits.com). This technology allows you to select specific types of traffic, like Microsoft Office or Zoom, and uses multiple internet connections to ensure you are never disconnected and have the highest quality experience possible. SpeedFusion Cloud is really inexpensive too – 500GB for $20, 1TB for $40 and so on. For what it provides, it is worth much more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/Adjusting-latency-1024x269.png) SpeedFusion with 4 cellular links Of all of the innovations in the last few years, **SpeedFusion is the one key feature that has allowed me to work remotely** without having to worry about losing connections or being at docks for WiFi access. The way it does this is by combining two connections, such as two cellular radios, and connecting to the SpeedFusion Cloud server nearest you. It then uses those two connections to send all of your traffic so that if either one slows down or is disconnected, the other connection is already working and there is no interruption. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/speedfusion-cloud-1024x625.png) Peplink has had this feature for a number of years, but only last year did they make it super simple for you to use via SpeedFusion Cloud. I will be doing a deeper dive on how to setup and configure this in a future article, but you get a 30 day trial for free with any new (or even most existing) Peplink routers. It only takes a few clicks, and you have a redundant setup for critical traffic. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/speedfusion-cloud-locations-1024x868.png) The SpeedFusion Cloud feature allows you to select specific types of traffic like Microsoft Office, Zoom, Google Suite, to send over this redundant link so you aren't wasting bandwidth with Facebook or Netflix traffic. You can even select specific systems or computers to send through this connection for all of their traffic if you have something critical aboard that always needs to be connected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/speedfusion-optimize-cloud-application-1024x535.png) You do have to consider carefully what traffic and/or devices use SpeedFusion Cloud, as it will not only use more of your cloud bandwidth, but it will also use data on each of your WAN links. In the event you are using two cellular connections, this means using 2x the data could potentially be used for the specific traffic types (Zoom, Office) or device that you have selected to use the SpeedFusion Cloud. This is why I recommend most people only choose specific applications instead of having a whole network, or even a specific device, that uses SpeedFusion Cloud. This ensures Windows Updates or other less important traffic doesn't use double the bandwidth and capacity in the SpeedFusion Cloud. Overall, this feature is a game changer to enable you to work remotely, reliably, from the boat. I've even had comments that my connection is so good that it can't possibly be on a boat, which is perfect! ### Good Local WiFi Having a good local WiFi connection is just as important as having a good source of internet. A high quality connection throughout a boat can sometimes be a challenge based on the size and composition. If you use remote WiFi features in some products, such as Peplink WiFi-as-WAN, they will reduce the overall performance of the local WiFi network. I have a main router responsible for cellular and remote WiFi, and two dedicated access points placed strategically throughout the boat where I spend most of my time. This allows the internet source (cellular, remote WAN, etc.) to be closer to the outdoor antennas, and the access points to provide a strong signal to my work setup. [Marina WiFi is hardRecently I had the chance to spend a few weeks working on a local marina WiFi system. The biggest issue was the perception of the boaters throughout the marina, and the need to invest in equipment to…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/2Ghz-Wifi-Spectrum.png)](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) You should also have 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands for your local WiFi system. Many of the cheaper systems only have 2.4Ghz which can be very unreliable. If you intend on using your setup in marinas, you will definitely want a good system with 5Ghz bands, and for the access points to be close to your work area. ### Controlling Usage I've written about this before in [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/), but there are also some specific things I do around work-related traffic that can help: - Monitor your data usage – most devices allow you to see daily totals of how much data you've used. Work applications tend to use a lot more than general web browsing, especially video applications like Zoom and Microsoft Teams. SpeedFusion will also use more data across multiple plans/connections based on how it works, so keep that in mind. Watching these reports will ensure you have enough data for the month. - Set Apple devices to “Low Data” mode to prevent them from going crazy with photo uploads, app updates, etc. Similar settings exist for Mac, Android and Windows 10 – you can find more details on how to do this in the [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/) article. - Block specific “bad” devices while working – this ensures you have all of the bandwidth available. These can include things like Smart TVs doing random updates, media players, and other devices. ### Zoom Tips Zoom is a challenging application to run from any location, let alone a boat. It is very latency sensitive, and requires a decent amount of upload bandwidth, which is not what most cellular networks or boat internet setups are optimized for. Latency is a challenge with cellular links when you are far away from a tower, or or are moving around at anchor or underway. SpeedFusion is critical for helping with this – see more on that above. Upload bandwidth is important to ensure your video looks the best to everyone else. Many cellular connections have good download bandwidth, but have very limited upload bandwidth if you are far away or have lower signal strength. Below are some tips to help Zoom work better on these types of connections. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/zoom-hd-off-1024x718.png) **Turn off HD** – the limiting factor in almost all connections is upload bandwidth, which is the amount of capacity you have to send data from your boat somewhere. If you use Zoom and have your camera on, you are transmitting a decent amount of upload traffic. The HD option increases this quite a bit, and really isn't needed. Turning this off will not only save you bandwidth, but because it's using less overall, you're less likely to have any quality issues. **Stop video** – if you're seeing connection issues, try stopping video for a while. Do you need to be sending video all the time anyhow? We didn't use to do this with conference calls…. Stopping video during screen sharing can also help with bandwidth limitations. **Smaller Zoom window** – if you are in a decent sized Zoom or Teams meeting with more than 5 participants, changing the size of the actual overall window will dramatically reduce the amount of bandwidth Zoom/Teams sends to you! You can watch this in the real-time graphs on whatever router you have, and as you make the window smaller, it slows down quite a bit. In the example below, a large Zoom window is using 2.27Mbps of download bandwidth, and a small one is using 1.20Mbps, which is quite a savings. I've seen it even smaller depending on screen sharing / no screen sharing, and is a great quick tip to try if you have limited connectivity – just make the window smaller! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/zoom-large-1024x529.png) Zoom bandwidth usage with large screen – 2.27Mbps (click to enlarge) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/zoom-small-1024x953.png) Zoom bandwidth usage with small window – 1.20Mbps – almost half! (click to enlarge) **What about Microsoft Teams?** – as of the date of this article, Teams does not have end-user controls for the quality of the video (HD/no-HD) and tends to use more bandwidth than Zoom in any situation. I try not to use if I can, but that isn't an option for a lot of meetings or people. Just be aware it tends to be a lot more bandwidth intensive, in particular on upload bandwidth for your video. The only real way to reduce that piece is to turn off your video. ## Conclusion Being able to work remotely from the boat is easier than ever before. The majority of my consulting engagements are focused around helping boaters achieve this, and if you follow some basic guidance – 2 connections, multiple providers, SpeedFusion, and optimizing your traffic – you can successfully do this too! If you have specific tips for your remote work environment, please leave them in the comments. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 26 comments Mike\_N@Mike\_N October 16, 2021 Hi Steve, Curious, how big is the boat in this application that you are adding wireless access points connected to the modem? I’m wondering if in a campervan I could use the rooftop Poynting antenna wired to the Peplink Transit Duo and be ok? It’s not a big bus or RV. Thanks! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 October 17, 2021 Hi [@Mike\_N](https://seabits.com/u/mike%5Fn), It’s not 100% tied to size. Boats can have various types of materials within them that block or degrade WiFi signals to the point of causing performance issues. For your application, you should be able to place the router inside and run the cabling outside and have decent WiFi signal within. Mike\_N@Mike\_N↩ #4 October 18, 2021 Thanks! Your reply is appreciated and helpful! Steve Mitchell@steve October 18, 2021 A post was split to a new topic: [HD1 Dome additional WAN source](https://seabits.com/t/hd1-dome-additional-wan-source/415) Carolyn@Carolyn October 20, 2021 Hi Steve, Thanks for this invaluable website and discussion forum! We are in the process of buying (hopefully) a 37’ sailboat and will be needing to set up proper internet for remote work, etc. I happen to have an unused TP-Link Archer AX50 Dual Band WiFi 6 Router – I’m wondering if this could serve as a router. I like your Peplink et al. “ecosystem” description, as you provide good detail on that – but out of curiosity, could the TP-Link work as well? Not sure how familiar you are with the various routers, I know there are lots out there. Thanks for any enlightenment! --Carolyn Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 October 21, 2021 Hi [@Carolyn](https://seabits.com/u/carolyn), TP-Link’s Archer series has been one of my favorites for a long time because they are well built, have a good feature set, and many can run directly off of 12v DC power. I mention one in my [Best Boat Internet Systems](https://seabits.com/best-boat-internet-systems/) article, which is a bit older… You could use what you have for the local WiFi network, but you would need a source of Internet, what we usually call a WAN source. If you are at a dock, you could get this from a local internet service provider who will provide a modem that can plug into the TP-Link Archer. To use it to grab remote WiFi is a little harder, but possible, although it would not likely work very reliably. To get cellular connections would require another device, or tethering it to a phone, both which would add some complexity and cost. Carolyn@Carolyn October 21, 2021 Thanks, Steve - that’s right, I forgot about the modem, as this is only a router. I have managed to make an old modem/router combo work with the Archer but it did seem a bit like a house of cards. Well, by the time I’m actually ready to dive in on this project, the tech may have evolved, as it does. I’ll stay tuned to see how things go. Thanks again! Sam Tadros@Sam\_Tadros November 01, 2021 Hi Steve, In one of the photos of your PepLink setup I saw that you had “home” as a pepvpn location. I wasn’t aware you could connect to a home vpn with speedfusion. I thought you had to go through PepLinks servers. How did you do this? Thank you Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #11 November 01, 2021 Hi [@Sam\_Tadros](https://seabits.com/u/sam%5Ftadros), Good question! SpeedFusion has been around for a long time at Peplink and was actually called PepVPN originally. SpeedFusion Cloud is a specific service, which I think might be what you’re more used to, and uses a specific feature built into newer versions of Peplink firmware to route your traffic across multiple WAN links to Peplink’s cloud service, and then out to the internet. You can still use SpeedFusion or PepVPN to connect to **other** Peplink devices, which is what you see in some of those screen shots. I have a large Peplink router at home that has two 1Gbps fiber connections, and my boat connects to that device so that I can manage things at home, and have access to my boat when I am sitting at home (rare!). I also have a product called Fusion Hub which is a virtual machine of SpeedFusion running in a cloud provider (AWS) that all of my Peplink devices connect to. This is similar to connecting to a dedicated router, and it likely was the inspiration for Peplink to create SpeedFusion Cloud over the last few years. So the short answer is that you can’t connect directly to non-Peplink routers. You could buy a Peplink router for home, or run a piece of software on a server if you wanted to and have a connection between all of those devices using a private VPN. Daniel Price@Daniel\_Price November 02, 2021 Hey, Steve! Thanks so much for all this great information! Quick question about a statement in your article: “Overall, I don’t think the OMNI-402 is worth the $400+ price for what you get. It would likely be better for diversity to have two OMNI-400’s mounted apart from each other at the same cost.” I have a MoFi 4500 and had planned to purchase a 402, but it sounds like I could use two 400s to better effect, but I can’t find any information about how to configure such a set up. Would I need different connections at the router? Where to position the 400s, what orientation, etc.? Any advice would be much appreciated! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #13 November 02, 2021 Hi [@Daniel\_Price](https://seabits.com/u/daniel%5Fprice), That review was written when most of the cellular modems only required a 2x2 MIMO antenna, or two elements/antennas. At the time, if you had a single CAT12 radio or less, then two OMNI-400s were the best choice because they were separate antennas which provided more diversity and better performance than the 402. I actually would wait a few more weeks while I finish my testing of the new Peplink 20G antennas which are looking to be quite a bit better than even the OMNI-402. There are a number of versions of the MOFI-4500 - not sure if you have the older 4G one, the newer 5G one, etc. Each of them have slightly different cellular modems and might change a recommendation for antennas and how to connect them. In general, antennas should be separated by 3’ at a minimum. They should not have cabling longer than 20’ from the antenna to the router, and you should try to use (if they come with it) factory cabling that is directly attached without any extensions. There are a lot of other recommendations or design I’m sure depending on the specific boat, spaces to mount it, and the specific router. Daniel Price@Daniel\_Price↩ #14 November 02, 2021 Thanks, Steve! I have a 4G LTE MoFi4500\. I’m checking out the Peplink 20G Maritime now. The description states ‘made for 5G’, but it still looks like it’d support my 4G router, right? Unfortunately, I have to make a purchase decision in the next few days because I’m moving aboard in early December. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #15 November 04, 2021 There are a couple different versions of the 4G LTE model, but most of that has to do with the modem. That could change whether you need a 2x2 or 4x4 antenna, so you will want to check the specs. The Peplink 20G will work with 4G and 3G as well. All they’re saying is that it has support for some of the newer frequencies that are specific for 5G. nh5622@nh5622 December 09, 2021 Hi Steve, have you had any luck creating an outbound policy or SpeedFusion setup that picks up FaceTime for WAN Smoothing? I’ve been able to get my Teams and Zoom traffic routed through there, but haven’t had luck with Apple/Facetime. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #17 December 09, 2021 Hi [@nh5622](https://seabits.com/u/nh5622), I actually haven’t tried FaceTime with a policy. I noticed recently that a number of new Microsoft applications showed up in SpeedFusion cloud, so I suspect Peplink are figuring out more of these and adding them as people request them. However, this is specific to SpeedFusion Cloud - are you using that, or just SpeedFusion standalone? If the former, it might be good to put in a feature request for FaceTime. [![image](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/e7a4ce64f1e856e855c44699befb214e6dc8d338.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/e7a4ce64f1e856e855c44699befb214e6dc8d338.png?ref=seabits.com "image") nh5622@nh5622↩ #18 December 09, 2021 We are going through SpeedFusion Cloud and I use their Optimization for Zoom. Prior to them having Teams available I had found some info on the Peplink forums for an Outbound Policy that’s worked great. I haven’t changed to the built in one yet (if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it). I thought you might have figured out something similar for FaceTime. I’ll put in the feature request for FaceTime…great idea. [![image](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/587eb733cf699adfc98ea6e818c3fa42bb4ee794.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/587eb733cf699adfc98ea6e818c3fa42bb4ee794.png?ref=seabits.com "image") Thanks, Nick Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #19 December 11, 2021 Let me know if you hear anything about the feature request, and how you put it in. I can pile on as well! Rob@Rob21 February 21, 2022 Hi guys sorry to revive an old thread but I need some help. I purchased peplink equipment for my boat and I need some tips on installation. I have 1 MAX Transit 5g router, 1 Maritime 40g, and 1 maritime 20g. My current issue is finding a good place to put the router.The cables that come with the antennas are 6’7" long so I don’t have much room to work with. I am mounting the antennas to the hard top of my boat. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #21 February 23, 2022 Hi Rob, Unfortunately I don’t really have any suggestions because I don’t know the layout of your boat or any other details Your goal is amenable - keeping the factory cables directly connected to the router is the best choice if at all possible. I’ve put Peplink routers in flybridge cabinets, under fiberglass tables, in storage cubbies, and even in Pelican cases when mounting them. The extreme examples include things like empty satellite TV domes - mounting the router inside of that with the antennas as well, or nearby, is an option. Rob@Rob21↩ #22 February 23, 2022 Steve Thank you for your response. Two of your suggestions have caught my eye. I am trying to choose between mounting the router in a waterproof enclosure (similar to the pelican case you had mentioned) or mounting it inside of an empty satellite TV dome. I currently have a KVH sat tv dome on my boat and we have no plans on using it. If I were to use the dome, I would want to remove the equipment from it so that I can use it for the router. Using the dome would almost certainly not require extending the cables. If I go with the waterproof enclosure instead of the dome, I would have easier access to the router, but I might need to extend the cables, and I am concerned about the router overheating in the enclosure. I believe the router is able to operate at 150 degrees Fahrenheit but the boat is located in Florida so it will definitely be hot (not sure if this concern is justified). A few questions: Should I be concerned about water or corrosion damage if I choose to keep the router in the dome? Should I be concerned about overheating if I choose the waterproof enclosure? What would you recommend? Any tips/suggestions? I really appreciate your help. Thank you! bkcorwin@bkcorwin February 24, 2022 anecdotal but i think the domes are sealed pretty effectively. Pulled the guts out of a v7 dome to swap in a v30 and the old v7 hardware looks immaculate and the gear has been there for at least 13 years Rob@Rob21 February 24, 2022 That’s great to hear. Thank you. Anyone else please feel free to chime in! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #23 February 24, 2022 Rob21: > Should I be concerned about water or corrosion damage if I choose to keep the router in the dome? It needs to be kept dry, so if the dome leaks or has some other issue, then you may have an issue. By being outside it may be more exposed to salt water corrosion through the ambient humidity but that is probably not going to affect it as much. You can use dielectric grease or something similar for parts that are metal and exposed. Rob21: > Should I be concerned about overheating if I choose the waterproof enclosure? You actually may have the issue with both approaches. If the waterproof enclosure is black and exposed to a lot of sun and has no vent at all, it will definitely overheat at some point. 150F sounds like a lot, but it really isn’t as that includes the heat generated from the unit, the case, and everything else. I’ve seen many Peplink routers mounted on the dashes of cars or pilothouses overheat just from being in direct sun. Having a temp controlled fan or some sort of vent might be necessary for both. Rob@Rob21↩ #26 February 24, 2022 Definitely a lot of good information there. Lets say I go with the dome idea. If I take the satellite equipment out of it and see no signs of corrosion, is it safe to assume that dome is properly sealed and I shouldn’t have to worry about corrosion or moisture? Also, the dome is white and much larger than the router so I don’t think temperatures would reach 150 degrees in there but just in case I could add a thermometer that I can monitor from my phone. If temperature is higher than I like then I could catch it early and adjust accordingly. What do you think? Thanks again for the help! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #27 February 25, 2022 I think you have a good plan! As long as it’s dry, and there’s enough space, you should be good. Rob@Rob21↩ #28 February 25, 2022 Thanks again for all the help. ### Chasing M2 underwater ROV review URL: https://seabits.com/chasing-m2-underwater-rov-review/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:01:55.000Z I've had a few ROVs in the last 5+ years and have really enjoyed being able to see what is below the surface. After a couple of failed systems that required more work than enjoyment, I've found the Chasing M2 ROV. ⚠️ My ROV has had multiple major failures since this article was written. Chasing support has been very difficult to reach, and the ROV is unusable at this time. I would not recommend this product. Recent video watching seals chase herring in Ewing Cove! ROVs and quad copters (commonly called drones) are something I've always been interested in. I've flown quad copters for at least 10 years now, and built them by hand back when you had no other choice. Before that, I flew RC planes and helicopters and built many different sizes and shapes. Quad copters have become so popular as of late that it has sort of ruined the enjoyment for me, however. Seeing people fly them in really inappropriate or illegal situations makes me far more wary flying mine. I don't want to make someone uncomfortable in an anchorage, or even have a conversation about it. That makes me a little sad since I love images of anchorages, especially with angled sun showing the bottom contours. I still fly one of my many quads whenever I get the chance and there aren't a lot of people around, but nowhere near as much as I used to. When ROVs started becoming a bit easier to get involved with, I was excited because you really can't bother too many people if you're diving underwater in a short radius location. I tried building a couple and had OK results, but it was definitely not high quality video, and struggled in other areas. ## The Trident ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Rhenium-Trident-OpenROV-drone-and-topsides-1024x683.jpg) I supported the OpenROV Trident kickstarter, and had one of their first units named Rhenium, and that was really where things started to get better. Unfortunately, OpenROV (now Sofar) really could never get the design right, nor their support. For 3 years, my ROV was broken for 3-6 months because of their poor motor design, delays in getting replacements, and many other problems. In the last few months, they announced they would be retiring the Trident product and no longer supporting it, which doesn't surprise me. OpenROV Trident ROV video of my Rocna Vulcan anchor while at Blake Island OpenROV and others were some of the first companies that pushed the boundaries for consumer or even prosumer level ROVs, and I'm happy they got into the business. As a result, other companies like Chasing, Qysea, and Powervision, just to name a few, were able to come out with their own designs which were easier to use and had more features. OpenROV Trident ROV with some fish and crab ## Looking for a replacement In the 2nd year of failed Trident parts, I decided to start looking for a replacement. Most of the ones I found were either really cheesy cheap things that had the camera quality of a flip-phone, or really expensive professional rigs that were meant for legitimate underwater exploration. By the end of that year, and going into the 3rd year of having a flaky ROV, I finally started seeing other companies come out with products that looked better designed, had some nice features lacking with the Trident, and were reasonable price-wise. After a few months in 2020 of communicating with various vendors, I decided to go with the Chasing Innovations M2. ## Chasing M2 Chasing has been around since 2016 and has produced a lot of consumer ROVs like the Dory, which is one of their most popular. The M2 came out in the last year or so, and really captured my attention. It was modular allowing both easy motor replacement (a pain with the Trident, and a frequent operation) and the ability to attach various things like GoPro cameras and grabbing arms. The biggest change was that it had 8 motors instead of 3 on the Trident, giving it complete mobility on every axis. This would allow me to point the camera literally any direction I wanted, where all of my previous ones were mostly fixed angles. Initial reviews seemed positive, and while the app and software sounded like a work in progress, it seemed like the best platform out there at the time, and I purchased it in September 2020. ## Unboxing I chose the [Chasing M2](https://www.chasing.com/chasing-m2.html?ref=seabits.com) \+ 200 meter tether + [E-Reel](https://www.chasing.com/chasing-e-reel.html?ref=seabits.com) and the [gripping claw/arm](https://www.chasing.com/chasing-robot-arm.html?ref=seabits.com). That combo ended up being about $4100. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/IMG_9583-1024x768.jpeg) The ROV, remote and reel (not the E-Reel part) all came in one big square re-usable foam case, which is super nice. I've continued using this as my primary storage for the ROV. It can't accommodate any mounts or other attachments, and I didn't use the reel storage area as I transferred that to the E-Reel. That extra space I use to stash my GoPro mount and pieces. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/7992983F-CE6F-4FAD-9D37-8433456108A6_1_105_c.jpeg) The ROV battery is a 22.6V 4400mAh or 97 watt hour cylinder that mounts in the back of the ROV. It has a waterproof connector that slides together with the ROV mounting, two pins that hold it in on either side, and a bracket on the back to keep it secure. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/458DC0FC-782C-4B49-917B-683CBCED81BA_1_105_c.jpeg) The E-Reel all reeled up and ready I immediately transferred my 200 meter tether into the E-reel. It was pretty painless although it did get stuck a couple of times, and figuring out how to get the tether wound into the pulley was a bit of a learning curve. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/9C663743-4E1E-4C2A-A232-79FE718B7EBE_1_105_c.jpeg) On the side of the E-Reel is a power button to turn on the reeling function, a battery indication light, a power/remote connector, and a speed selector. The E-Reel only reels the tether up once you're done, not out – you still have to manually pay it out, which is totally fine with me. I always pre-pay out a lot of extra before diving. Having the ability to reel it up after you're done via motor is super nice. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/39334C11-BA95-465F-B2C6-8530848D219B_1_105_c-1024x683.jpeg) Remote with phone holder and E-Reel set up and ready for diving ## Pros ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/63F6B917-65A5-4324-BA11-4336F848C372_1_105_c.jpeg) **Quality cabling and components** – the cables and connectors used are really good quality. They feel like they're made of aluminum and are well machined and good fit and finish. There are nice little o-rings (spares included) which prevent water intrusion, and the ends appear to be something you could field replace if needed, which is super nice. **Excellent control capabilities** – having the ability to move around all axes is a game changer compared to the Trident and other cheap ROV's I've used. You can point the thing in any direction you want, even straight up when looking at the bottom of a boat, which is super amazing. This has allowed a lot of different shots and angles for the camera and more flexibility when trying to grab things. The controls take some getting used to, but you can change every axis of the unit, roll it side to side, point it straight up and down, slide sideways keeping the camera on something – pretty amazing. **Motors are easily removable** – three screws and a single electrical plug that is modular, and the motor is removed. That's way easier than the multi-step process for the Trident. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/733B04ED-300E-453A-834D-EAF8CC059C48_1_105_c-1024x683.jpeg) ROV “unlocked” and auto leveled. Notice the ripples **Auto leveling** – once you “unlock” the ROV, it will self level and stay generally at the same point. It uses the motors to do this and is quite a thing to watch. It generally can stay on station that way without much attention, and is about as close to a hovering quad copter as I've seen with any ROV. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/04/chasing-remote-interface-1024x474.jpeg) Chasing iOS app showing status of the ROV including orientation, depth, etc. **Awareness** – one of the biggest challenges with ROVs is getting disoriented underwater, and not knowing where the darn thing is relative to your position. Chasing have a number of different bits of info on the screen that helps you including a diagram that shows the orientation of the ROV with a big arrow showing the front (yes!). I've been able to point that arrow towards myself, and drive the thing directly back to me without surfacing, which is usually what I would do in the past. **Well built remote** – having had a number of quad copters and ROVs that require game controllers, the Chasing one is a nice change. Dedicated cable between it and the E-Reel/ROV is perfect, **On board SD card** – the Trident didn't have this, and recorded to storage on board you couldn't remove. To get the video and photos out of it was a joke and took hours. Having it on an on board SD card is nice so you can pop it out and download it using a computer. **Attachments** – you'll see a matching one of these in Challenges due to performance, but the ability to attach various things is a definite selling point. The grabber arm in particular is super fun. **Single charger** – this is nice so you can plug everything in with the provided 3 ended cable. It is a bit slow, but that is to be expected with a single charger. The plugs are also well designed and fit well. **Lots of stuff included** – you get the remote, cables, extra screws, extra o-rings, sun shield for the remote, ROV, towel, and a lot of other nice things. Most vendors charge you for each of these, or require you to use 3rd party game remotes and the like. It's nice to have all of this included. ## Challenges I'm pretty happy with the Chasing, but there are some problems that are inherent with the product. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/04/chasing-remote-format-1024x474.jpeg) **App / Software** – this is rough, no other way to put it. Sometimes it reverts to Chinese, many of the popups and warnings are not understandable, and certain features are crossovers to other products and don't work. This has gotten better in the last month, but that's 6 months after I purchased it, and for a product of this cost, absolutely unacceptable at launch. The format button above is a good example – it's not a button, it's in ROV settings, not camera settings, is not really clear (tfcard?) and has no “OK” prompt – it just formats your card immediately. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/GLDS1113_173202313-1024x576.jpeg) Photo from Chasing M2 of a piling. Pretty blurry….. **Camera quality** – I was really disappointed in the quality of the on board camera. The Trident was pretty terrible too, and the Chasing is moderately better, but not that great. The best footage I've gotten is by attaching a GoPro to the attachment points, which adds a whole other set of issues – you have to charge the GoPro, put it in a waterproof mounting, mount it on the ROV (won't fit in the case with that, so that's an every-time thing), remember to trigger it (oops) and you get a full stream that you have to edit. Oh, and hopefully you don't hit anything to move the angle of the GoPro, and expect about 1/2 speed and 1/2 battery life as a result of the GoPro causing drag. Meh… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/CF87AC49-B757-4A1A-8846-B967E3F2299F_1_105_c.jpeg) Taking apart a motor to try to get it un-stuck **Motors** – just like the Trident and other ROVs I've had, even a small amount of material getting into the motors regardless of how you clean it after diving renders the motor either stuck or very tight even after a day. I've tried all of the tricks I've used on other ROVs, and this system is better than the Trident, but it is a matter of time before I lose a motor. The only effective way to avoid this is a fresh water bath after any significant amount of dives, and then an application of waterproof oil. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/04/IMG_1210-1024x474.jpeg) Power settings don't seem to change much **Ultra-sensitive controls** – The sensitivity to even tiny movements underwater is way too high. There is a setting to adjust some of this, but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. You can be honed in on something and touch a control to move up/down/left/right and the entire picture jumps terribly. I've asked Chasing several times about this, but they have not been able to clarify if this will be changed. Other systems I've used have low/med/high settings so that once you get on-site, you can make very gentle control changes to stay on station. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/BA6A1FAB-12ED-4439-8207-8E520399DD0D_1_105_c.jpeg) Broken battery retention bracket. **Battery retention bracket broke** – while I was putting the battery in the unit, I closed the back bracket, and it broke, without much pressure. It costs $7 to get it, $30 to ship it, and I have to send money to a weird PayPal address, take a screen shot and send it to Chasing…. Doesn't really feel like a good process (see Support). There are two other locking pins that hold the battery in, and I use a big strap of gaffers tape across the broken bracket for now and have had no issues. **Battery range** – this is woefully less than the specs or information provides. I'm lucky to get about an hour of diving on a single stock battery. You can add a bigger battery, but I expected a lot better. **Support** – support is through the factory in Hong Kong, and the people are nice, but there are significant delays and language barriers. Just to ship the unit took several weeks, and then it was stuck in customs for a while. **E-Reel fails a lot** – the concept is good, but getting the tether on the pulley with cold hands is hard, the thing jams a lot due to the close clearances, and due to what appears to be a design issue, the belt that runs things slips often. I think I'd rather just have a manual reel for the price without any of the tight spaces to cause issues. **Attachments & Performance** – this was one of the selling points of the Chasing to me, being able to add various things to it. While it has a bunch of points on the top and bottom to attach things, just about anything I've attached causes enough drag on the platform that it can't overcome well at all. The hour or so battery life plummets even further with a GoPro on board. Adding the claw reduces it even more – I was lucky to get just beyond 30 minutes. I would expect that if you design a platform and market it to have attachments, that you size the motors and battery appropriately for that, especially for this price. ## Best Practices ### Video If you're looking to get the best video results: - **GoPro required** – I never rely on the on-board camera. It's gotten better in recent app updates, but the GoPro is far better quality. This means charging, mounting, and triggering it every time, and living with the drag and less battery life, but if you're trying to film something this is the only way. - **Do not throw** – Chasing show throwing the ROV into the water to get started. My experience with this results in changing the GoPro angle no matter what mount you use, and I avoid it. - **30-45 minute battery life** – assume you have about 30 minutes of sustained travel with the extra drag of the GoPro - **On board camera** – I usually have this recording all the time, but if you're worried about battery life you could cut that out. Just hope that your GoPro is still recording! - **Post processing necessary** – since you're filming underwater, you'll need to spend some time in whatever you use to post process your video. I use Adobe Premiere and mess with the colors in particular to cut out the green which is present in our waters a lot. In addition, I spend a lot of time on highlights and shadows to get things dialed in. ### Exploring In order to get the best general performance if you're just exploring: - Ditch the GoPro – it adds too much drag and reduces battery time significantly - Only run the lights when near the bottom / something of interest - Descend to 5 feet or so and make your way to the destination – much more efficient This is the way I use the ROV more than for high quality filming. Even if we're looking at the bottom of a boat (common) I would prefer to have more agility and battery time with worse video. ### Video & Photo Settings Here are some of the screens from the video and photo section of the iOS app. This has gotten progressively better over the last 6 months, but there is still a lot to be done. Many of the features are undocumented, and until you play around with them, you won't know what sort of footage you'll end up with…. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/04/IMG_1205-1024x474.jpeg) ### Maintenance ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/F4C271D8-417F-407E-AA36-2AA37661A296_1_105_c.jpeg) ROV drying off in the shower aboard Rendezvous After every dive, even if you're going to leave it overnight, do the following: - Fresh water rinse any part of the tether that got into salt water. - Fully immerse the ROV in fresh water for at least 10 minutes and run the motors to clean out any contaminants and salt water - Use a protective oil like Boeshield on the motors before putting it away ## Usage & Example Videos and Photos The best example of “using” the ROV was a rescue – a welcome mat rescue, but still a rescue! Click the image below to see a hilarious video [@mvindiscretion](https://www.instagram.com/mvindiscretion/?ref=seabits.com) recorded when I retrieved their lost welcome mat from the bottom at Fossil Bay, Sucia Island, in the San Juan Islands. [![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/04/indiscretion-welcome-mat-ROV-video-1024x506.png)](https://www.instagram.com/p/CNdsU-hDvYD/?ref=seabits.com) Click to see post on Instagram ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/E0D4EEC6-0E07-4BF0-B439-E717F1DF4E25_1_105_c.jpeg) Diving in Ewing Cove near Sucia Island I've done probably 40 dives in the last 6 months all around Puget Sound – from my boat, from docks, from the dinghy, etc. Similar to the video at the top of this article – herring and a seal! Diving near the Jones Island shoreline in the San Juans with some fish and seaweed ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/04/IMG_1635-1024x576.jpeg) ## Conclusion The Chasing is a huge improvement over the Trident, and is super fun to use to look at the bottom of boats, sea life on the sea floor, and tons of other places, but it still has a long ways to go to be worth the price tag. At roughly double the cost of the Trident, I don't believe it's worth the cost for the additional features given the poor performance with accessories, video quality, and control issues. Some of these may be things Chasing can address, but I have yet to see much measurable progress. If you're looking for a prosumer ROV, I would consider other alternatives which seem to be emerging quickly, and really consider if it is worth it for what you plan to use it for. There are a lot of \~$1000 ROVs that are much easier to use and will allow you to do casual exploration. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 9 comments Steve Mitchell@steve October 06, 2021 If it wasn’t obvious by my other notes in this article, I **do not recommend** this product at all anymore. Here are a list of the issues that have happened since I wrote the article: - While in the case, the unit powered on and turned on the high intensity dive lights. Those lights are supposed to remain submerged in water when on, and as a result, they melted and are no longer usable. - The unit now powers on fully every time the battery is installed, regardless of whether you command it off. This is a hazard, so I’ve had to store the battery separately. - Support has been difficult to contact, and has requested videos proving these issues, only to say they can’t see the issue or avoiding repairing the unit. pangziqi@pangqiqi↩ #2 November 10, 2021 Hi, Steve ``` I'm an engineer from chasing. I'm really sorry for the bad experience brought to you by some product problems. ``` As for the image problem, could you please provide some DNG and JPEG data and MP4 video, we will improve the camera effect for these problems. We are very grateful and hope that you put forward the problem of the product, and we will make improvement according to the problem. My email is [qiwei@chasing-innovation.com](mailto:qiwei@chasing-innovation.com), we look forward to your reply. Steve Mitchell@steve November 11, 2021 Thanks for the feedback and info. Unfortunately I can’t power up the unit reliably to even provide examples. I would love to hear from someone in support as to replacing the broken LED lights, faulty battery/control board, and the other issues with the unit. I’ve tried to get support for months, but either get no response, or am asked to send videos or files that I can’t send because the unit won’t power on. pangziqi@pangqiqi↩ #5 November 15, 2021 Hi，steve I don’t have your email address. Could you please reply your question to [support@chasing-innovation.com](mailto:support@chasing-innovation.com). Robin Manford@Robin\_Manford April 08, 2022 Hi Steve, Thanks for this invaluable article. How has your experience of the M2 and Chasing’s support been since November? I’m considering purchasing an M2 myself in their 6th Anniversary sale, but I’m apprehensive following your issues with their support. Thanks again Robin Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 April 11, 2022 I would not purchase another M2 or any other product from Chasing. I’ve never been able to get mine repaired. It has been sitting in a storage unit for months. It was one of the worst investments in the last 3-4 years in terms of technology and reliability. Greg Oswalt@Greg\_Oswalt↩ #8 October 03, 2025 - Thank you, Steve for the detailed review of the Chasing M2 drone and information regarding the company. As a new company they cannot afford to have such negative reviews but they do not appear to have much concern about negative reviews. I have been wanting to buy the M2 pro Max but after reading your stunning review I have decided this is not the company for me. It has been a few years since your review and it still has a strong impact on the ROV community. Not only is the company unwilling to stand behind their product but the advertised battery life does not stand up to actual reported use and a device that does not stay off when turned off is super important to know. But I’m also extremely happy for your detailed maintenance information which will apply to any underwater drone I end up with. I’m impressed with your good idea of soaking the drone in fresh water and running it for 10 minutes in fresh water after each use to keep the motors working properly. Thank you, Greg O SY Lulu@SY\_Lulu December 03, 2025 What drone/ROV are you using now? Would you recommend it for a newbie (1st time ROV)? I’ve built RC planes and have had a few DJI drones, but would be amazing to explore underwater (especially for my kids). Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 December 03, 2025 Good question! I actually don’t have a current usable underwater ROV. I’ve tried a couple of others that have all had issues or just didn’t work for me, and returned them. I’d like to find one that isn’t the playtoy size/type and more like the Chasing M2, but doesn’t have a $5000 price tag. I’ll have to look again - I did a few months ago - but most of the ones I really liked were just too expensive. ### Power conversion devices for networking and electronics URL: https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T01:22:04.000Z There are a lot of bits of equipment aboard a boat that seem to require voltages and types of power that aren't as easy generate. In particular, power over ethernet devices and voltage sensitive items require a bit of special attention when using them aboard. This article covers some of the converters and devices I regularly use. ## Power Stabilization If you have devices that are sensitive to voltage fluctuations, there are a number of devices that are available to help. I've had the most experience with [Victron's Orion-Tr series](https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-tr-dc-dc-converters-isolated?ref=seabits.com) of isolated DC/DC converters. These allow you to connect your DC power source on one side, and output a stable 12 volt (or up to 15 volts in the case of the model below) signal for sensitive electronics. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/ORI121240110_Orion-Tr-isolated-12-12_30A-360W-top.png) Believe it or not, even on my boat with it's [LiFePO4 power system](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/), updated wiring, and all the other bells and whistles, I have to use these for two pieces of equipment aboard – my AXIS docking and engine room cameras, and my Furuno MFDs. Whenever I kick on the windlass to retrieve it after being anchored, or when it is just coming up into the bow roller and can cause a big spike in amps, the voltage sag causes these devices to either get flaky, or outright reboot. Adding a Victron Orion-Tr for both of these has stopped that behavior, and I've expanded the use of the one in my flybridge to other 12 volt devices related to navigation just to give them nicer voltage that is always stable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/ORI121240110_Orion-Tr-isolated-12-12_30A-360W-front-angle.png) As with all of these devices in this article, while converting things provides a better result to the devices attached, it comes at a cost. This conversion is not a free activity, and it will cost more power to do it, so keep that in mind if you decide you want to add this to your system. Adding it everywhere, or to an entire DC system, is not likely cost-effective nor practical. In the case of the Victron Orion-Tr products, there are overall limits for the amount of amperage you can run through them, with the same voltage versions topping out at about 30 amps. That's usually enough for most things, but if you wanted to run your entire DC power system through something like this, it would be a bit challenging. You can get the Orion-Tr in boost versions as well where it will take \~12 volts and convert it into 24 and 48 volts, but I cover some of those below. ## Boost/Buck Converters There are a lot of devices that require more power than your standard battery bank voltage can provide, and in some cases with internet devices, quite a bit more. You can use some of the stabilizing voltage converters above to go from 12 volts to 24 volts, but what can you use when you need to make a bigger jump? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/Peplink-routers-with-PoE-768x1024.jpeg) Peplink MAX routers with PoE ports Most Peplink routers that support power over ethernet require 56 volts as does their SIM injector. Where is this voltage requirement coming from? Well, it's common in the service provider/carrier/cell phone industry. However, it's pretty hard to find marine solutions for this. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/smakn-1024x857.jpg) I've used two solutions – one with mixed results (and cheaper), and one with a much better outcome. The first has been voltage converters, commonly called buck-boost converters, from Amazon. They are inexpensive, usually are just a big heatsink with wires coming out of them, and generally do the job. I've had about a 20% failure rate with these, and they tend to get hot and have some voltage variations on output, so be aware that you get what you pay for. The one above I've used to power the Peplink SIM injector as well as several Peplink routers that have PoE ports and is the [SMAKN Waterproof DC/DC converter](https://amzn.to/3saIaME?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/MAX-Router-Board-Setup-1024x623.jpeg) Peplink MAX router with 56v converter (center top) and several PoE injectors for Domes I've also used the Victron Orion-Tr for this purpose, but they only convert from 12v to 48v, and I'd like to get to 56v so I can get the true full output. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/Tycon-12v-56v-top-1024x768.jpeg) My preferred solution is from Tycon, who have been around a long time in the solar and carrier world – I've used products from Tycon in my [solar](https://seabits.com/tag/solar/) experimentation back into the 1990s. Their [TP-VRHP-1256](https://amzn.to/3eYQtaL?ref=seabits.com) is perfect to convert 12v to 56v for the various devices that need it. It's a very well built unit with decent output, a big indicator light, and clear labeling. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/Tycon-12v-56v-output-1024x768.jpeg) Check voltages and amp draw As with anything electrical, and in particular with voltage converters, make sure you carefully consider the voltage you're converting to, and the overall draw **at that voltage** that your device(s) require. Many of these devices will tell you what they draw at the higher voltage, but you will want a proper fuse for the lower voltage side, and know how much it could potentially draw. Example: the Tycon converter above indicates 1.25 amps at 56 volts, which is actually about 5.8 amps at 12 volts. Make sure you consider both voltages, both amp draw levels, and what your device actually requires when sizing a converter. ## Power Over Ethernet Power over ethernet, or PoE, is common for modern networking equipment, cameras, and more. It's an easy way to provide both power and data to a device without having to run two cables, and is delivered over a single ethernet cable. Many devices I've reviewed can use PoE including the [MikroTik](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/), [Peplink HD1 Dome](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/), and Peplink AP One Rugged access point. If you have a router that supports PoE and has ports that it can provide power out of, see above for choosing an appropriate voltage or boost converter. Most routers will need a higher voltage provided to them to generate PoE. Some in the MikroTik family do not, but they're running a much older version of PoE that can power other MikroTik stuff, and not much else. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/Tycon-PoE-injector-1024x768.jpeg) Tycon TP-DCDC-1248GD-HP PoE injector If you don't have a router that does PoE, and need to power a standalone device such as a MikroTik, Peplink HD1 Dome, or the like, you can use what is called a PoE injector. These take your DC battery bank voltage in one side, and produce a PoE signal out the other side to your device. They deliver this out an ethernet port, and have a secondary ethernet port to connect to your router or switch. I have used Tycon's PoE injectors for years and have had extremely good results from them with little failures. They come in just about every flavor you could imagine – 12v to 24/48v and all of the different variations. One caution is that there are a number of different types of PoE and each one has limitations in terms of the voltage they are running at, the wiring of the cable, and the overall power (usually in watts) that you can use. Carefully review the specifications of the thing you're trying to power before buying an injector, as it may not be compatible. For instance, the MikroTik Groove requires only passive PoE anywhere from 9-30 volts and would only consume 6 watts, while the Peplink HD1 Dome requires PoE 802.3at from 42-50 volts and can consume 20 watts. You could theoretically run the MikroTik (and I have many times) directly off of your DC battery bank with no conversion of voltage, while the Peplink HD1 Dome will require an 802.3at converter like the Tycon [TP-DCDC-1248GD-HP](https://amzn.to/2Qnqi3c?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/PoE-powerside-1024x768.jpeg) These injectors have a wire block to connect to your DC power source (make sure you add a fuse!) and two ethernet ports on the other end. One ethernet port goes to the device to be powered, and has PoE power coming out of it, and the other port is to go to your router, switch, or other device that the device is attempting to connect to network-wise. ## Wrap Up Powering modern electronics on a boat requires a bit more thought than in the past. Some things require more stable voltage, which can be solved by products from Victron and others. If you're trying to run bigger routers or power over ethernet devices, there are a lot of good solutions from the solar and carrier world that work well on a boat too. Whatever you are trying to power, make sure to carefully consider amperages and overall power requirements before selecting a solution. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Ron Micjan](http://www.zephyrnw.com/?ref=seabits.com) [March 21, 2021 at 10:07 am](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-2851) Hey Steve, thanks for the great article as usual. I have two Orion devices in Zephyr, one powering the CANbus for N2k which keeps a nice steady 14v end to end on the main bus and another that powers the primary navigation Lenovo mini PC at 20V from 24v supply. Great products. On your voltage drop using the windlass, I would suggest that you put a battery bank up near the windlass so that using it does not affect the rest of the boat power system. The best configuration is one that keeps starting batteries isolated from electronics batteries and high loads like your electric windlass as well. Of course the best windlass and bow thruster setups would be hydraulic anyway. Cheers [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 21, 2021 at 10:14 am](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-2852) Hi Ron, Thanks for the notes on your use of the Orion. As for a separate windlass bank – the voltage drop is tiny actually – because of the LiFePO4 bank, nothing really notices it at all, except one Furuno MFD. The other three MFDs (identical) don’t have any issues, and nothing else does either. And it’s only in very rare situations where the windlass is under heavy load. Furuno even theorized it might be the actual MFD itself that has some weird issue, but we were never able to resolve it, so an Orion sits with it now, and it’s fine. With traditional flooded batteries, which was what Rendezvous came with originally, the voltage drop was horrible while using the windlass. Part of this was the nature of the batteries, part of it was that the windlass needed service, and the solenoid itself (I covered this in ) was really bad off. I would see around 11 volts in the flybridge (furthest away) which was not good. The LiFePO4 bank never really flinches much, which is pretty typical of those types of banks. I don’t have a bow thruster (I really wish I did) but if/when I do add one, I will be putting a small bank in the v-berth for that and the windlass, and re-purposing the large sized cables from the distribution area to that new bank for a DC to DC charger to keep them topped off. Hydraulic would not be an option for me without major surgery which likely wouldn’t be worth it. [Ron Micjan](http://www.zephyrnw.com/?ref=seabits.com) [March 21, 2021 at 10:49 am](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-2854) I think you would be surprised how little a hydraulic system would cost and if you were going to haulout and put in a thruster anyway, the most major surgery would be in that arena. I have seen you spend lots more on internet connections than a good hydraulic gear pump. LOL You would need a reservoir, clutched pump, mounting system, belts, piping, filter and a solenoid reversing valve plus the thruster, which are generally less cost in hydraulic than electric and with a clutched pump running off one of the mains, you would never run out of thruster energy in a tight spot. On the electric side, have you ever put an O-scope on the bank when tapping the windlass? You may be getting an inductive spike from the solenoid that could be causing the problem with the Furuno packing up. Those big inductive spikes are another good reason to have separate battery banks. We have individual totally isolated batteries for all three gensets, the 24V LiFePo4 bank for the inverters and some 24v electronics, a 12V bank of 2-8D batteries for lighting and 12v electronics and the mains start using air starters so no batteries needed. Of course having 5 separate battery banks can be fun for maintenance. : ) [https://www.baileyhydraulics.com/CP124-Clutch-Pumps-Bracket-2-48-CID-Max-PSI-2500](https://www.baileyhydraulics.com/CP124-Clutch-Pumps-Bracket-2-48-CID-Max-PSI-2500?ref=seabits.com) clutched pump [https://www.mcmaster.com/49995K17-49995K389/](https://www.mcmaster.com/49995K17-49995K389/?ref=seabits.com) Solenoid directional valve Of course, if you pay someone to do all the work, you will get hosed on the custom labor but the parts are not too expensive. Owen Anderson [March 21, 2021 at 7:24 pm](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-2869) Very timely. I just received a TP-DCDC-1224G to power a Mikotik Metal access point. Tim Connolly [March 22, 2021 at 3:55 am](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-2887) Very timely article Steve, and the connection to the anchoring project also hit home as I am going through some retrofit work myself. My two TZT 14.1″‘s shutdown when my horn compressor kicks in. Contacting Furuno, they said displays have protection circuits that watch for voltage drops and shut off the units so I’ll be looking into the victron device you mentioned. Interestingly, the Garmin 8212 does not… My 2003 vessel came with two anchors (different styles for different conditions), two windlasses, older chain and rode. Was in the yard for some work and I had them pull both chains/rodes all the way out, probably for the first time ever. Both chains had some rusty links which I will deal with, however, one had a “rust ball” of chain at the bottom that would obviously not go through the windlass. So we cut that off and I have 400ft of 5/8″ rode on the way to split across both anchors. I also had to replace the relay and several of the wires when I first got her. Anchor lockers are brutal environments, even if I fresh water rinse when the chain is coming up. . [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 28, 2021 at 10:23 am](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-3650) Hi Tim, Sorry for not responding to this sooner – the comment system has been flagging things as spam that aren’t, and I didn’t see this until now…. The voltage stabilizer is almost required for any of the TZT2/3 installs I’ve been involved with. Their sensitivity is much higher than other companies MFDs, but they claim it’s to protect it…. Still annoying. Anchor lockers are definitely terrible environments. Not everyone pulls all of their chain out as frequently as they should, so it’s good you were able to! James Greenwald [March 23, 2021 at 9:27 pm](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-2958) Thank you Steve for your informative article, I am about to install a Pepwave MAX Transit DUO FirstNet “PrimeCare Edition” Dual Modem LTE-Advanced Mobile Router (DUAL CAT-12) and 2 Poynting OMNI-402 Marine LTE 2×2 MIMO Antennas. My boat is 24v dc and I have the Peplink Fused DC Power Cable harness for 12/24v. I did not think about power other than the basics. Would you suggest I add Tycon Systems Inc TP-DCDC-2456GD-VHP 18-36vdc In 56vdc Out 70w Dc Converter for my setup? [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 29, 2021 at 10:00 pm](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-3658) Hi James, Sorry for not responding sooner – your comment got flagged as spam. You don’t need to convert the power – the Pepwave will run off of 24v natively. James Greenwald [March 24, 2021 at 6:12 am](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-2980) I have recently purchased from the Pepwave MAX Transit DUO Router and 2 Poynting OMNI-402 LTE 2×2 MIMO antennas. I am considering my installation power option on my boat (I am 24V DC) I have read some interesting information on power source from your article, Or am I totally off base and the MAX Transit DUO Router does not support POE? and I will be using SimData plans and not connected through a Ethernet service provider. Or am I just plan old confused. Mixing with POE Power over Ethernet vs. PPPoE Point-to-Point Protocol over Ethernet. Would you recommend the Tycon Systems TP-DCDC-2456GD-VHP 18-36vdc In 56vdc Out Dc converter? I thought the Modem was 12v-48v? Is it better to have a stable 56VDC power? Also would adding the Tycon TP-DCDC-1248GD-HP 56V DC 35W Out DC to DC Converter and POE Inserter be of any advantage? Please help a newb, Jim [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 25, 2021 at 8:48 pm](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-3069) Hi Jim, The MAX Transit line does not support power over ethernet so you won’t need a PoE injector for it. In fact, with your 24v system, you just need to connect to the power block on the MAX Transit directly, and you’ll be fine. The 56v stuff is for routers that offer PoE to other devices, like domes or access points. Since the MAX Transit is self contained, and doesn’t support powering other things, you won’t need any converters. Franz [May 4, 2021 at 9:28 pm](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-3514) Hi Steve, I’m staging some networking gear for install in our pilothouse (close to the antennas on the roof): – Peplink Max Transit CAT 18 – Trendnet POE Switch – SMAKN DC-DC Converter 12-48V – Blue Sea power sub-panel Trying to decide how best to corral them on a panel given the options for install locations. I was worried about heat dissipation with the DC-DC converter, looking at server rack shelves, maybe a 4U bracket to hold it in place. Looking at your layout above above (Peplink MAX router with 56v converter (center top) and several PoE injectors for Domes), I’m wondering what material you used for the mounting panel, as putting everything on one panel is definitely simpler. My issue is limited bulkhead real-estate. [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 12:35 pm](https://seabits.com/power-conversion-devices-for-networking-and-electronics/#comment-3610) Sorry for the delay in answering – a bunch of comments were flagged inappropriately as spam…. I mount most of my stuff on starboard, but that is because I’m testing and changing things, and don’t want to invest too much time in permanent mountings. The converters don’t get too hot, even one I have driving a big 4 radio MBX that is also powering two domes. The routers actually are the warmest, and they seem to do OK even then. ### Recommended Internet Systems, Satellite and Cellular Plans URL: https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:45:51.000Z ⚠️ Last Updated August 2023 Below are some of the current systems / hardware / plans I recommend. These are constantly changing, so check back often. 🛒 SeaBits is reader-supported and I only recommend products I would use myself. When you buy through links on the site, I may earn an affiliate commission. ## Cellular Plans ### T-Mobile T-Mobile has a $55/month plan that provides 100GB of data. This plan has come and gone over the last 7 months or so, and the price has gone from $50 to $55\. It has a lot of great features which you can read about in the article below, although some may have changed since the plan was retired and then brought back again at least once. Recent reports indicate you have to call or go into a T-Mobile store to get this plan – it does not appear to be available online. It also appears to be available primarily via pre-paid plan, not as an additional line on an existing account. I've used multiple versions of this plan / SIM in Peplink, Teltonika, CradlePoint, and Verizon branded hotspots without any issues. [T-Mobile 100GB internet data planT-Mobile is offering a decent hotspot / router plan again for $50/month that includes 100GB of data, roaming, and more!![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/tmobile-banner.png)](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/) ### Verizon Verizon has a range of data-only pre-paid AND post-paid plans. - [Pre-paid](https://www.verizon.com/prepaid/data-only-plans/?ref=seabits.com) - [Post-paid](https://www.verizon.com/plans/devices/hotspots/?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/07/Verizon-prepaid-hotspot-1024x623.png) The plans include a range of data from 5GB to 150GB of monthly data. These plans are specifically for routers and hotspots, and give you options if you are an existing Verizon customer (post-paid) or if you just need a Verizon SIM and are not a customer yet (pre-paid). The plans are capped at the monthly data allowance, similar to the T-Mobile plan above. This means once you pass your data allowance amount, speeds are throttled down quite a bit. On 5G Ultra Wideband (hard to get with current mobile routers) things will slow to around 3Mbps, and any LTE will slow down to about 600Kbps, which is pretty slow. So far I have tested this in a handful of Peplink and CradlePoint products without any issues. I have not tested it with the newer 5G versions, nor have I tested it with other hardware from MikroTik, Amarok, Teltonika, etc. Please post your test notes in the comments below. Post-paid will always have an advantage over pre-paid in terms of network management - Verizon tends to slow down pre-paid first, and leave post-paid alone unless something really bad is happening. ### AT&T AT&T has a pre-paid 50GB a month plan for $55 which is a great value. There are some caveats – you have to pre-pay for it monthly, versus having it on an existing AT&T account (post paid), you have to sign up in store, and there are some known issues with drop outs or data problems that are still being resolved. If you need a good plan from AT&T, check it out at [https://www.att.com/prepaid/mobile-hotspot-tablet/](https://www.att.com/prepaid/mobile-hotspot-tablet/?ref=seabits.com) ### Finding a Plan Make sure to check out my article on [Finding a cellular data plan for the boat](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/) for recommendations on the types of plans, how to set up the plan, and details behind 3rd party vendors, among other things. [Finding a cellular data plan for your boatOne of the biggest challenges with staying connected on the water is finding an appropriate cellular data plan. Before you embark on buying a new router, cabling, or anything else…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/andrey-metelev-6LwmMV15Ug4-unsplash-1.jpg)](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/) ## Satellite Systems - Starlink Starlink has changed connectivity on boats forever, but there are a decent amount of limitations and challenges that you should be aware of. I have a dedicated page for Starlink related information and articles: [Starlinkℹ️Last Updated October 2022 Starlink satellite service is a revolutionary product for many reasons, including in the marine world. However, there is no purpose-built marine-grade recreational solution available at this time. Choosing a Plan/Version Most recreational boaters are resorting to usin…![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/09/IMG_7763.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/starlink/) I also highly recommend using Starlink with cellular to get the best system: [Using Starlink with PeplinkHaving a Peplink router with a cellular modem paired with Starlink is essential for reliable connectivity aboard the boat.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/10/All-the-connections-1.png)](https://seabits.com/using-starlink-with-peplink/) ## Cellular Systems There are a lot of choices for systems, so many that this could be a very exhaustive list. I've only listed the most popular ones I've recommended or installed in three tiers – good, better, and best. ### Good #### **Netgear Hotspot** My favorite hotspot right now is the [Netgear Nighthawk 5G](https://seabits.com/netgear-nighthawk-5g/) which is a very powerful hotspot that also includes an ethernet port. It has great battery life and is very easy to use. It has phenomenal performance on 5G, when you can get it, and is a great way to have internet aboard without investing in a full fledged router and antennas. [Netgear Nighthawk 5G first impressionsThe Netgear Nighthawk 5G is an expensive upgrade to the Nighthawk line with moderate 5G support and some other interesting features.![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/Netgear-Nighthawk-5G-speeds.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/netgear-nighthawk-5g/) #### **Teltonika RUTX11** The [Teltonika RUTX11](https://amzn.to/47C2uuR?ref=seabits.com) is a single cellular radio router with 2.4/5Ghz local WiFi, multiple LAN and WAN ports, and other great features. You can read my review on it below. [Teltonika RUTX11 LTE routerThe Teltonika RUTX11 is a single category 6 LTE router with a ton of features, extra services and connectivity, and all for an inexpensive price.![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Teltonika-RUTX11-cover.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/) Why this is in the “Good” category and not the “Better” category is that it does not have as many easy-to-use features as the Pepwave MAX BR1 MK2 below. It's a very powerful router, and has a similar CAT6 modem, and for those looking for a good option, this is a great choice. ### Better ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/br1-1.png) #### ****Pepwave MAX BR1 Mini LTE Router (HW3)** Peplink's Pepwave MAX BR1 Mini LTE Router (HW3) family are cost-effective, entry level complete Internet connectivity solutions in a single ruggedized metal case for your boat or vehicle. This router is available with your choice of a Category 4 or 7 LTE modem. [More Info & Pricing](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-MAX-BR1-Mini-LTE-Router-HW3%5Fp%5F118.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) The BR1 series was what launched Pepwave into the market and has been popular with boaters for years, and the [MAX BR1 Mini](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-MAX-BR1-Mini-LTE-Router-HW3%5Fp%5F118.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) is the cheapest version of that line. It has a single category 4 or 7 cellular radio, runs off of DC power, has 2x LAN and 1x WAN ethernet port, and creates a local 2.4/5Ghz WiFi network. I don't recommend it as much as some of the other Peplink products because of two main reasons. First, it is a category 4 or 7 modem which is quite old and does not support the newer bands that many providers are using in longer reach situations, which is where you'll be with a boat. Second, it is a single radio system which means that you have no redundancy and cannot use features like SpeedFusion to provide better performance and redundancy when working remote. However, it is still a major upgrade from a hotspot or other system, and especially on power limited boats it can be a great system. If you need better connectivity than a hotspot, and do not need redundancy, this router is a good choice. Pair it with a [Peplink Mobility 22G LTE + WIFI + GPS](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Mobility-22G-Combo-LTEWiFiGPS-Antenna%5Fp%5F43.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) antenna that is mounted outside, and you have a very powerful setup. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/22g.png) #### Peplink Mobility 22G Combo LTE/WiFi/GPS Antenna The Peplink Mobility 22G is a 5 in 1 antenna built for mobile applications. It supports 2x2 cellular MIMO for high bandwidth and solid reliability, dual-band (2.4GHz & 5GHz) Wi-Fi and GPS. [More Info & Pricing](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Mobility-22G-Combo-LTEWiFiGPS-Antenna%5Fp%5F43.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) ### Best ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2023/11/BR1-ports-1.jpeg) #### Pepwave MAX BR1 Pro 5G Router Peplink's Pepwave MAX BR1 Pro 5G Router is a complete highest speed Internet connectivity solution in a single ruggedized metal case for your boat or vehicle. [More Info & Pricing](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-MAX-BR1-Pro-5G-Router%5Fp%5F34.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) [MAX BR1 Pro 5G](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-MAX-BR1-Pro-5G-Router%5Fp%5F34.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) – this is the latest and greatest from Peplink and has a very fast CAT20/5G modem in it. It has 4 LTE antennas just for that modem, and two antennas for WiFi along with a WAN ethernet port (for a MikroTik or other device) and two LAN ethernet ports to connect to a computer or switch. It also has a much, much faster CPU which results in way better performance than any of the other MAX Transit line, including the DUO. The only down-side to this product is that it has only one cellular radio / connection, so if you need redundancy or more throughput, you'll need to consider the [MAX BR2 Pro 5G](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-MAX-BR2-Pro-5G-Router%5Fp%5F116.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com). [Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G initial impressionsThe Peplink MAX BR1 Pro 5G is a powerful router capable of excellent performance on both 4G and 5G, and is a top pick for internet connectivity on a boat.![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/12/BR1-ports.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-br1-pro-5g-first-impressions/) With both of these products I recommend the [Peplink Maritime 20G](https://onboardwireless.com/peplink-maritime-20g-antenna.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) and [40G](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Maritime-40G-Antenna%5Fp%5F25.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) antennas. ## Antennas & Cabling You can find specific antenna / router combos above, but here are the antennas and cabling I recommend if you already have something. ### Peplink Maritime 20G and 40G The best marine-grade antennas right now are the Peplink Maritime 20G and 40G. They have marine mounts, easy to install, and excellent performance in almost all conditions. You can read my full review below. [Peplink Maritime AntennasPeplink’s new Maritime series of antennas prove to be well built, have lots of coverage for various bands, and are a prime contender for any marine setup.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2022/03/IMG_4418.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/peplink-maritime-antennas/) The [Maritime 20G](https://onboardwireless.com/peplink-maritime-20g-antenna.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) is a dual cellular antenna with GPS (2x2 MIMO) that pairs well with a single radio device, or functions as a WiFi as WAN antenna for a dual connection WiFi radio. It can also be used with the MAX Transit Pro E with one antenna connected to each of the dual radios, or to the MAX BR1 Pro 5G to provide more diversity or separation compared to a single antenna like the 40G (see below). The [Maritime 40G](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Maritime-40G-Antenna%5Fp%5F25.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) is a four cellular antenna with GPS (4x4 MIMO) that fits with all of the dual radio, CAT-18, CAT-20 and 5G products such as the MAX BR1 Pro 5G and the MAX Transit Pro E - both recommended above. This single antenna can connect up to either product and only one antenna is required. It is a big antenna, and you may wish to have two 2x2 antennas (the 20G) instead depending on your performance and aesthetic needs. ### Peplink Mobility Series Peplink came out with the Mobility line about a year ago and they are fantastic performing antennas. In the lower bands/frequencies, they actually beat the Poynting antennas. They're quite a bit smaller form factor, but are a bit more work to mount on a boat. [New Peplink antenna testingThere have been a lot of new cellular antennas that have come out in the last few months from Peplink. I’ve been testing some of them for a while, and have some interesting findings.![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/11/Peplink-Maritime-20G-testbed.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/new-peplink-antenna-testing/) I've seen excellent performance if you do not extend the factory cables that come with them (about 6 feet) which means potentially mounting the router near an outside location. The Mobility series comes in a number of different options with 2 or more antennas inside. This is great for a single cellular router like the BR1, or you can get two of them for a MAX Transit, and have WiFi as WAN amplified as well. The Peplink Mobility 40G is a 4x cellular antenna, so a good choice for the MAX BR1 Pro 5G. - [Peplink Mobility 40G](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Mobility-40G-4x4-MIMO-LTE5GGPS-Antenna%5Fp%5F44.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) \- 4x4 MIMO antenna - [Peplink Mobility 22G](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-Mobility-22G-Combo-LTEWiFiGPS-Antenna%5Fp%5F43.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) \- 2x2 MIMO antenna ### LMR-400 ultra flex cabling I always recommend using the highest quality cable possible, and as short as possible, to any antenna. My cabling of choice is LMR-400 ultraflex, and I buy it pre-made to the right lengths, with the right connectors from [ShowMeCables.com](showmecables.com). ## WiFi Booster There is really only one booster I recommend, and it is the [MikroTik Groove](https://amzn.to/3QYSEO5?ref=seabits.com). It is very inexpensive, quite powerful, but it is difficult to setup and use. It requires power via the included power over ethernet adapter, or a separate DC adapter. The output from the booster is an ethernet cable which will need to be connected to a router or computer inside the boat. [MikroTik Groove step-by-step setup guideSetting up the MikroTik Groove to boost WiFi on your boat can be daunting. With a few quick steps you can get the Groove up and running quickly on your network.![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/MikroTik-closeup.jpg)](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/) If you are non-technical, I recommend buying a Peplink router along with external WiFi antennas and using the WiFi as WAN feature. It is quite a bit more expensive ($400 for the antennas alone) but if you cannot deal with technical issues, this is your only choice. Other manufacturers sell simplified WiFi extenders for $500 and up. ## Cellular Booster I rarely recommend boosters anymore because they don't provide as big a benefit as a really high quality outdoor antenna connected to a router. They only really work in areas with very, very low signal levels. If you are interested in a booster, the [weBoost Drive Reach](https://amzn.to/3QWLGJq?ref=seabits.com) is one of the best out there. You can combine this with a Poynting OMNI-400 for a very robust marine-grade booster setup. More info in my review below. [weBoost Drive Reach cellular amplifier installation and testingweBoost released the Drive Reach recently which is a more powerful and refined version of the venerable Drive 4G-X, the gold standard for cellular amplifiers since 2014\. I have been using mine for a…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/weBoost-Drive-Reach-outside-antenna.jpg)](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/) --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Gary Ryan [March 3, 2021 at 10:23 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2103) Regarding AT&T, they have a little known wireless internet plan that includes a wireless modem. This plan is $110 per month with 100GB of data and not throttle. I have running on this plan for two years now and it is exceptional in the San Francisco Bay area. I work from my boat and the data up/down speeds have not been issue. We regularly stream video content with no lag. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 3, 2021 at 11:10 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2107) If you have details on the plan or a link to sign up, please post it here or send it to me in email. I’d love to investigate! - Gary [March 3, 2021 at 12:26 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2113) Device is here: [https://www.att.com/buy/connected-devices-and-more/att-wireless-internet-black.html](https://www.att.com/buy/connected-devices-and-more/att-wireless-internet-black.html?ref=seabits.com) Plan is here: [https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/gear/att-wireless-internet-router/](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/gear/att-wireless-internet-router/?ref=seabits.com) - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 3, 2021 at 2:25 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2118) Ah yes, I am aware of that plan+device. You have to purchase the device or have that specific device already in order to use the plan associated with it. You can’t activate the plan on another device like a Peplink router or Netgear hotspot, and you can’t move the SIM once you’ve activated it to another device. It’s a good device+plan if you are specifically looking for AT&T and no other provider, and are OK with the limited feature set in the hardware they provide you. - Scott Christopher [March 3, 2021 at 11:00 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2106) Steve, I have a feeling I already know the answer, but by any chance are you aware if there is a Peplink device that is or can function as an ‘HD Dome for Wifi’ ? Which I mean to say, a device with an integrated antenna, externally mountable, weatherized, PoE dome or box that can function for Wifi-as-WAN? My research has drawn a blank. The HD Dome is attractive, in spite of price vs features compared to the Transit series, simply for being able skip the antennas and cabling. I know enough of RF to know that antennas and cabling are more of a dark art than they have any right to be. My personal preference would be to keep the RF signal runs to within devices and ‘convert’ to PoE ethernet ‘digital signaling’ as soon as possible. I figured I would always be struggling with RF cabling for a decent roaming internet system, but the HD Dome tempts me with getting ‘halfway’ (LTE but not wifi) towards not needing the RF cabling. Or maybe I should just accept that wifi-as-wan is probably not going to end up being all that brilliant anyways and just stick with the HD Dome and LTE alone. I’m sure that the Groove plugged into a port configured as WAN could work, but then you’d loose the single user interface from peplink. And if I have to work with multiple UIs, I’d probably seriously consider rolling my own with pfsense at that that point, since I’m already comfortable with that OS. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 3, 2021 at 11:14 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2108) There is no Dome equivalent for WiFi as WAN right now. It’s something that has been discussed at length in the Peplink forums, and I’ve brought it up to my contacts at Peplink as well. It’s definitely on their radar, although WiFi as WAN is definitely a secondary feature set for them – they’re primarily focused on cellular. The other issue with the Domes is that you also need some sort of indoor WiFi access point, which if you only have one dome, is fine to do with the AP One Rugged. If you want two domes for redundancy or SpeedFusion, as I have, then you need a central router inside the boat which creates all sorts of other issues. Lack of PoE power on WAN ports, three different UIs to manage (2 domes and one router) and a few other issues that I’ve documented in a recent forum post as well. The bottom line is that Peplink has some work to do with all of these solutions – they need a good, non-antenna focused outdoor marine dual radio dome and a secondary dome option with WiFi only that all feed back to a central router that can manage them centrally. - [Tom Crowe](http://na/?ref=seabits.com) [March 3, 2021 at 12:44 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2114) Any experience with the RedHat Halo system as a wi-fi extender? where that might fit in your overall discussion here? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 3, 2021 at 2:31 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2119) I think you may have meant RedPort Halo. I played around with one a couple of years ago, but it is 2.4Ghz WiFi only, which can be mostly unusable in marinas (see ). In general, most of the 2.4Ghz solutions are pretty equal if they are this same form factor – an outdoor unit with a decent antenna. RedPort paired theirs with a really good 9dB antenna, so it would likely perform very well. It looks like it is unavailable on Amazon, but was about $400\. If I remember correctly, I think it could have been based on the older Ubiquiti Bullet platform which is no longer available either, so perhaps there are some stock issues? This would fall into that category of WiFi boosters that are more expensive than a MikroTik Groove (which has 5Ghz BTW) – you’re paying for the simplified setup and screens which could be worth it depending on your technical ability. - Owen Anderson [March 3, 2021 at 2:50 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2121) Would it be possible to have some kind of summary of what’s changed in your recommendations recently? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 3, 2021 at 3:03 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2123) Do you mean as sort of a change log at the top of the page, or something similar to that? I was planning on that going forwards. Or are you asking about stuff I’ve talked about in the past currently? - Owen Anderson [March 3, 2021 at 3:49 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2128) Definitely going forward. I wasn’t clear if there were changes in your recommendations in this page compared to previous iterations. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 4, 2021 at 9:54 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2159) Gotcha, yes my plan was to have a bit more detailed info if/when I update any of the items in the list. - Lat Williams [March 7, 2021 at 11:10 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2300) Just came across your blog, and it looks like great info. We’ve been frustrated with marina wi-fi, and are seeking affordable solutions. We aren’t techy and don’t need to work while cruising. Just looking for a reliable wi-fi service that gives us internet access, not Zoom or heavy data use. We’d also like to be able to use our smart TV, which is almost useless for us at present. We use AT&T now, and can use it as a hotspot, but some areas have limited signal strength for AT&T. What do you suggest for tech-ignorant cruisers who just want to be connected more reliably? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 8, 2021 at 9:59 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2323) A dedicated hotspot device like the Netgear Nighthawk M1 is definitely a cost-effective way to stay connected, if that is similar to what you already have. You can add an external antenna like the one I talk about, which will often times work with multiple brands of hotspots. That can help with low signal areas, and in areas with better signal, improve the overall experience. Right now, the best plan out there is the 100GB/month one from T-Mobile, but depending on where you are in the country, that might not work for you. They have great coverage out here on the West Coast and in particular in the cruising grounds of Puget Sound. If you want to go one step up, you can try the other routing devices, but they are quite a bit more complicated than a hotspot. - Ian Crosby [March 7, 2021 at 11:18 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2310) Word to the wise, if you want the T-Mobile $50/100GB plan, buy the prepaid SIM in the store and make sure you set up your T-Mobile ID while you are there. I could not find a way to order the post-paid stand-alone data plan on their web site. The pre-paid order flow always got stuck before I could check out. And the the phone sales person spent forty five minutes trying to figure out what to do about the IMEI for my PepLink MAX Transit not validating in her system before my call got dropped. The lady at the store sold me an activated SIM in five minutes with no IMEI check or registration. It worked without a hitch when I got it home and plugged it onto my router. (Haven’t installed it on the boat yet). The only thing was that when I tried to set up my T-Mobile account online after getting the SIM home it wanted to send a verification text to the phone number of the SIM card, which of course can’t receive messages. Their phone support guy suggested that I take the SIM out of the router and pop it in a phone to receive the verification text, but of course I’d have to pop the nano SIM out of the mini frame to do that, and then I couldn’t put it back on my router. My only other option to set up an account to automatically reload the SIM is to go back to the store, which I will do tomorrow. A big headache, but a far better deal than any other data-only plan on the market right now. I went by the AT&T store afterwards to see about adding a second SIM as an additional line on my phone plan, but the caps were low and the prices were ridiculous. The thing is I’ve got thirty gigs of tethered data on each of my devices, so I was thinking about just using those in hot-spot mode where they have decent coverage as secondary data sources via the WiFi WAN settings. Any thoughts on this approach, and whether it would be worth using a signal booster for the phones and/or sharing their data connection via the WiFi WAN configuration in the PepLink as opposed to just tapping into them dorectly? Pity there aren’t any other better BYOD data-only plans out there right now to fill that second SIM slot. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 8, 2021 at 10:01 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2324) Thanks for the feedback. One of the biggest challenges is signing up for a plan. I think I mentioned it in this article, but also in that the safest way to get this particular plan is pre-paid, not post-paid, and online, not in person. Initially when it came out, going into a store resulted in confusion and no plan. Sounds like some places are better in person now. Trying to combine it with an existing account is going to be very problematic – I’ve heard from a number of folks who have either never gotten it to work, or had hours of time on the phone. I don’t know why these companies make it so hard! We just want to give them money for data! - Ian Crosby [March 8, 2021 at 10:26 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2325) I wonder if COVID has caused some of these carriers to dial back or raise prices on their data only offerings in response to high demand? Good to see at least T-Mobile going the other way, even if they don’t make it easy. On that front: I saved myself a second trip to the T-Mobile store by finding the setting in the SIM Toolkit (Advanced > Misc Settings > SIM Toolkit) in the web administration interface that lets you read SMS messages that have been sent to the SIM! Using the verification code sent to the router I’ve now been able to set up a T-Mobile ID for my pre-paid data account and save a credit card as a payment method. But now the web site is generating an “Unknown System Error” message when I try to set up an automatic payment to that card. I will try again when I get closer to my renewal date before engaging with their awful account support reps about it. - Gary Ryan [March 8, 2021 at 10:27 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2326) Does anyone know if Starlink will ever be an option for boats and if so what the timeline for this would be? I got in the beta program but when I looked at the dish and the requirements it was clear that there is no way to make it work on a moving boat. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 8, 2021 at 10:37 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2328) I would recommend reading my article on Starlink at - Lee [March 14, 2021 at 7:46 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2545) Steve I am interested in installing a mobile connection in my boat and feom reading through your articles seems like the peplinx transit duo is the way to go. I would like to keep it to one antenna. Looks like the peplink 401 will handle all the LTE portion for that router? Does the 401 do wifi as well? If i am not looking at wifi as a priority can the transit still grab a signal with the 6″ antennas provided with the unit or is external really needed? From your info looks like two 201 antennas would be the next option for the least antennas. In this case does one of the antennas wifi cables not get used? Lee - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 14, 2021 at 9:19 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2547) Hi Lee, The Peplink Puma series of antennas ([https://www.peplink.com/products/puma-series/](https://www.peplink.com/products/puma-series/?ref=seabits.com)) comes in a few different versions. There isn’t one that does 4x LTE as well as WiFi, and there’s a reason for that. Most of those types of antennas, like some from MobileMark, are not going to be that great on a boat. These are typically called “puck” antennas and they are meant for cars and trucks in metro areas, such as police and EMS. They don’t have higher gain bits in them, so they won’t work on a boat rolling around in some anchorage further away very well at all. With the models of Puma available, you could use a Puma 401 for the 4x LTE connections, and a Puma 020 for the 2x WiFi connections. Or two Puma 221s which have 2x LTE and 2x WiFi – sort of wasteful for the second one with WiFi, but it would separate out your LTE and maybe allow some more diversity. The Transit might be able to grab remote WiFi signals without an outdoor WiFi antenna, but it won’t be anywhere near as reliable. It also highly depends on where you mount the router and what is around it in terms of interference. Keep in mind as well that by using the on-board WiFi to grab a remote signal, you slow down the performance of your local WiFi network that the Peplink is creating. Some folks add an AP One Rugged if they have coverage or performance issues to broadcast their local WiFi network. - Lee [March 14, 2021 at 1:32 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2554) Steve Thanks for the responce. Are the puck antennas more of an issue on boats just for wifi or also LTE? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 14, 2021 at 1:50 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2556) Puck antennas in general are not great on boats because of their lower gain. Many also require what is called a ground plane which is a big piece of metal or grounding material which is really hard to do on a boat without making things look really ugly. - Jon [May 2, 2021 at 9:01 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3510) Should one expect significantly better afloat performance from a Poynting MIMO-3-15 than a Pepwave Puma-221 in this case? The latter form factor would work better for me, but perhaps the performance would justify additional complications. Either would be connected to an existing Max Transit being used for LTE and WiFi as WAN upgrading from a mix of older internal (WiFi) and external (LTE) antennas. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:01 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3614) I’ve had very good results with the Puma 421 and 401 series antennas, which are derivatives of the 221\. They have excellent performance in the lower bands and are pretty small. They don’t have great marine mounting setups though. The key is to not add any extensions to the existing cables on any of these antennas, Poynting or Peplink – otherwise you add quite a bit of loss. The Poynting MIMO series has been hard to get a hold of, and I haven’t tested it yet. They don’t seem to be as good as the Peplink ones, though, on paper. - Jon [May 3, 2021 at 11:10 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3512) Taking the gain and profile issues into account, should we expect a significant difference in afloat performance between a Pepwave Puma 221 and a Poynting MIMO-3-15? I already have a MaxTransit router and am looking at updating the antennas for LTE and WiFi as WAN purposes. The Puma profile would work better for me, but the complications of the fin might be worthwhile for a significant performance boost. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 5, 2021 at 9:53 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3517) The Pepwave Puma antenna has really impressed me – I have three that I have been testing for quite a while, and it has done extremely well in very adverse signal conditions. The Poynting MIMO 3-15 and other variants has lower gain numbers, and while I have not had as much time testing it, I would say that the Puma would be my choice right now given the performance it has been showing. - Lee [March 14, 2021 at 2:19 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-2557) Got it. Thanks! - Gavin Gee [May 6, 2021 at 11:27 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3521) Steve do you think I will see an improvement over my tethered Iphone 11 on TMobile in elliot bay marina with the good options listed here? I dont want to get into the $1500 price point but want more reliable data than the 1 bar of Tmobile I get on the phone. i.e. is a cat 6 modem based unit going to be an improvement over an iphone 11 which I believe has a cat18 modeM - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 12:31 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3609) It’s not just the type of modem, but the quality and size of antenna. The higher/newer category modems do help in situations where you want more bands connected simultaneously to help with the signal strength, or where a carrier, like T-Mobile, spins up new bands that work better. T-Mobile is pretty bad in Elliott Bay Marina. I have been testing a new 5G product from Peplink and it works phenomenally better than ever before, but I suspect that is because those are new bands, and few people are on them yet. - Gavin Gee [July 17, 2021 at 12:52 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3612) Thanks Steve. I did buy a poynting wifi antenna for my mikrotik from miltech based on your experience and it’s a great improvement. That is giving me confidence to explore the poynting lte Antenna and setup as well. - [Larry OKeefe](https://mvmissmiranda.com/?ref=seabits.com) [June 18, 2021 at 6:40 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3554) Steve, really appreciate the recommendations and research behind them. I have a Pepwave Max BR1 Mini that I got on the way down to Mexico to replace the dead cellular part of an old Wirie+ unit I’ve had for several years. I continued to use the Wirie+ for marina wifi while using the Mini with an external WireEng 4g antenna mounted on the top of the pilot house. Now the wifi part (Bullet) of the Wirie+ is dead, and I am wondering about using the Mini for wifi, too. I’d have to unlock the wifi as wan feature on the Mini for $100, and would probably buy the recommended Poynting Wifi antenna. My questions to you, if you don’t mind: – How good/usable is the wifi as wan module on the Pepwave products? Is it easy to scan for and connect to wifi networks? – Would you recommend upgrading to the Poynting dual cellular antenna? I assume that I’d then need to run an extra cable? – Any suggestions for extending/improving the strength of the wifi network created by the mini? There isn’t a “local” wifi antenna connection on the device. Thanks in advance! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 13, 2021 at 8:34 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3585) Hi Larry, The WiFi-as-WAN feature is very easy to use in the Pepwave. I use it every day, and it shows up as just another WAN source, allowing easy prioritization and such. Looking for a WiFi network is very easy, and you can sort them by open or secured, along with saving favorite ones. I find it to be a good interface with a decent amount of options. An alternative would be the MikroTik Groove, which I write about a decent amount. It is much more difficult to use, but is very powerful, and is about $90\. That would connect to the WAN port of your BR1 and it has its own integrated antenna, and is powered off of PoE into the ethernet port, so easy cabling – might even drop into where you had the Bullet. The Groove is difficult to use though, and can be frustrating, so check out some of the articles here on it first. WiFi-as-WAN will also reduce the WiFi performance on the BR1 depending on the model you have. Many of the BR series only have two WiFi antennas – one for 2.4Ghz and one for 5Ghz – and when you use WiFi as WAN, you cut the performance of both or one of those in half. It won’t reduce the signal that much, but just the performance. If you connect outdoor antennas to the WiFi ports, then you could have issues with things inside depending on where those antennas live. Most customers I work with I end up recommending a MAX or BR1 as the main “WAN” unit that does LTE/cellular, WAN port, and WiFi as WAN, and does not actually broadcast a WiFi signal. Then we pair it with one or more AP One Rugged units which are WiFi only and are managed by the BR1/MAX and placed in places around the boat that make sense. That also means the router can be closer to the outside, shorter cable runs to outdoor antennas, etc. For the LTE side, the Poynting series of antennas are excellent. - [Larry OKeefe](https://mvmissmiranda.com/?ref=seabits.com) [July 14, 2021 at 11:39 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3586) Thanks, Steve, that is very helpful. It turns out that I somehow had a software key for the wifi as wan option and was able to get the license key from Peplink support. I agree that it is easy to use. But, given the antenna configuration that you describe, I do not think it would work very effectively with my external wifi antenna. I do have another wifi router on board that I use for nav equipment, but I think that should be kept as dedicated. I will look into the AP One units. - Brian [June 20, 2021 at 11:03 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3556) I’m a little confused, I have the Netgear Nighthawk hotspot, is there any signal benefit to getting any antenna other than the Netgear MIMO antenna with this device? Also, I have the t-mobile plan you mentioned was retired, do you know if existing customers will be able to keep it? I haven’t seen any notifications yet but don’t want to ask! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [June 21, 2021 at 10:03 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3558) Hi Brian, The little square MIMO antenna is a good one, but if you are having issues in more remote areas, you could get a Poynting OMNI-402 and conversion cables to plug it into the two ports on the Nighthawk. I’m not aware of T-Mobile cancelling the plan if you already have it. Just make sure you don’t miss a payment or have a credit card issue or anything. In many cases with pre-paid plans (if that is the version you have) one missed payment will render the plan dead. - Brian [June 22, 2021 at 7:58 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3560) Thanks for the info. I got the Netgear one yesterday, I’ll try it out shortly, and hopefully that is sufficient. I definitely appreciate the info you post on the site, it really helps clarify what is otherwise somewhat overwhelming! - Ian Crosby [June 21, 2021 at 10:09 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3559) I just picked up the ATT prepaid SIM at their store in Sitka and was very excited to drop it in to my Max Transit. So far though it is only connecting at 3G speed even though I have four bars of LTE on my ATT phone. Are these the “data issues” you were referring to? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [June 22, 2021 at 8:16 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3561) Hi Ian, No, that’s either coverage or something else going on. The issues that are happening appear to be around the data connection hanging every so often, either requiring a re-connect or sometimes just waiting. - Ian Crosby [July 3, 2021 at 8:32 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3567) Yep, I got it sorted out by manually associating my router IMEI number with the SIM through the AT&T prepaid account site. (The rep in the store said this step would not be necessary.) I have had to manually reset the connection a few times but generally the coverage and availability was quite good throughout SE Alaska. This was a total lifesaver for me after I failed to read the fine print on my T-Mobile prepaid plan and discovered that their Alaska “partner” coverage is classified as domestic roaming and capped at 128 MB before throttling! I also picked up a GCI prepaid SIM that was next to useless as most of their coverage in SE is voice and text only. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 9, 2021 at 9:13 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3572) Good to know! TMO is generally only usable roaming wise in Canada. SE Alaska is a challenge for them, and AT&T or just going direct to GCI is the only choice I’ve heard of working enough to be connected. Still limited in terms of bandwidth and locations, but it is better than the alternative! - [Nick Anderson](http://www.extrapolation.com/?ref=seabits.com) [June 27, 2021 at 8:02 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3564) Hi – what is your opinion on the use of something like the MOFI4500-4GXeLTE-SIM7 that directly uses a cell carrier SIM from an existing phone (not hotspot)? I have heard that this form of router allows the use of unlimited cell plans for phones (from the likes of AT&T) as the carrier sees it as a “phone” and not a hotspot. I’m assuming that you can’t simply stick a SIM from an unlimited cell-phone plan directly into something like the Pepwave MAX BR1 MK2 CAT6 router and have it work as the carrier identifies the hardware differently? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 9, 2021 at 9:23 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3574) Hi Nick, Pretty much all routers, including the MOFI stuff, shows up as a router, not a cell phone. In order to show up as a cell phone to the provider, they would have to fake looking like a phone and do a lot of other stuff that would get them in a ton of trouble. All of the products out there get their “modems” or cellular connections from a few vendors, and they have to set them up a particular way to even access the network. You are correct, though – many carriers and routers will not allow you to just move an unlimited SIM from a phone into the router without them noticing. Some will work just fine depending on the plan, while others will slow down or not even connect as they notice what you’ve done. T-Mobile did this with some of their plans last year, and specific modems from a company called Telit. However, there are plenty of examples where using a cellular phone plan in a router works fine too. It really comes down to the SIM, plan, and the router you’re going to be using. What doesn’t exist is a router that will bypass all of this and look like a phone… - Richard [July 3, 2021 at 7:14 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3566) Everyone should be aware that SpeedFusion is turned off after one year unless an extra annual subscription fee is paid. Steve, would you still recommend Pepwave Max routers without SpeedFusion? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 9, 2021 at 9:20 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3573) SpeedFusion does not get turned off. I think what you’re referring to is the SpeedFusion Cloud requirements for a plan and warranty. SpeedFusion Cloud is a paid plan that is set by date and amount of data you use. Once one of those runs out, you have to add a new plan. Last I checked, it was something like $50 for 2 terabytes, and lasts a year, but it can vary by device. This is why I recommend folks don’t send everything out SpeedFusion Cloud, and this particular plan usually will suffice for a year. That’s pretty cheap when you consider what you’re getting for it! The second is device warranty. Peplink is starting to enforce that you have the product under warranty to use their cloud. They’ve done this for years with their remote management suite InControl, and the Cloud part is also required to have a valid warranty. This allows them to make sure you’re using supported and modern hardware with the Cloud, among other things, and is pretty common in any tech industry. You can get Peplink products that include this via their SmartCare program, and vendors will often offer a 3 year warranty when you buy it. SpeedFusion still works without SpeedFusion Cloud and without the warranty. Nothing gets turned off in the product that I’m aware of. I use SpeedFusion to another Peplink device, and to a Peplink virtual router in the cloud, and have for many years prior to SpeedFusion Cloud being a thing. If you want the convenience of their Cloud and support, then you do have to have a plan and warranty. Compare this to the other vendor in this space, which I do not recommend at all because of their policies – CradlePoint. They require that you pay a software licensing fee every year, which can be well over $500, or features within the product are disabled. Some of these features can include the actual cellular radio which means you can’t even use the product standalone! Peplink’s cloud fees are pretty cheap, and their warranty is also usually $100 or less per unit (depending on the model of course) and gives you access to their cloud, but also access to InControl which is an amazing tool if you’ve never tried it. - Paul [July 7, 2021 at 2:07 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3569) Steve, thank you so much for providing this wealth of information. It’s the most useful resource I’ve found. Have you looked into Neptulink? Do you have any opinions on it? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 9, 2021 at 9:25 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3575) Hi Paul, I did look into it in early 2020, and was surprised at some of their antenna claims. I did contact them, but never heard back as to my specific technical questions. I would want to know a lot more about the solution and how it gets to those numbers before buying anything. - Wm Jones [July 16, 2021 at 7:45 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3599) Data regarding available cell plans is dated both AT&T (100GB/$55/month post paid) and T-Mobile (100GB/$50/month pre-paid) offer 100GB/Month hot spot plans. T-Mobile even tosses in a modem for free (for a two-year obligation). I followed a RV connectivity group “on the Facebook” (LOL) to get up-to-date info on offerings and pulled the trigger when the unlimited 100GB offerings came ’round. I am a sailor but am using a Netgear M1 and a M5 to work from home while I select a carrier. Later it will be Chippie and Digicel. - Casey Tallon [July 20, 2021 at 2:22 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3631) Steve, Great info! Do you know if the Netgear Nighthawk M1 will still work with the prepaid AT&T plan since it’s 5G? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 22, 2021 at 11:34 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3636) It will most likely fall back to 4G, but it really depends on the plan. I assume you’re referring to the $50/month prepaid hotspot plan that they just came out with recently? I don’t know of any restrictions with that particular plan outside of devices that AT&T supports… - Helmsman [August 25, 2021 at 2:31 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3689) [https://www.milltechmarine.com/Poynting-MIMO-3-17-LTEWiFiGPS-Combo-Antenna\_p\_643.html](https://www.milltechmarine.com/Poynting-MIMO-3-17-LTEWiFiGPS-Combo-Antenna%5Fp%5F643.html?ref=seabits.com) Is the above multi-antennae something that would work well for your setup with the Max Transit. Seems like it receives both cellular and wireless signals? I appreciate any insight you can provide. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [August 27, 2021 at 11:58 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3691) Multi/combo/puck antennas do not generally perform well because of their size and the number of antenna elements inside them all competing for space. In almost all cases, the bigger the antenna, the better the performance. I’ve tried to get the Poynting MIMO-3 series to test, but have been unable to. There is data to support that it won’t be as good as larger antennas, though. I have been using the Peplink Mobility (used to be called Puma) series of all-in-one antennas and have been very pleased with their performance even compared to a Poynting OMNI series. I’m still doing testing with a couple of newer models, and will share that info soon. - NHarrison [August 27, 2021 at 9:47 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-3694) Thank you. I have to make a decision in January. Look forward to your thoughts, I appreciate the huge effort you put into all of the testing you do to benefit all of us. - Ash [September 14, 2021 at 5:59 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-4521) Hi Steve – Very helpful information on your site. My requirements are fairly simple and primarily consist of internet access for music and kids YouTube while cruising of a weekend. That said, I like to buy quality equipment and future proof as much as possible. Where we spend most of our time, the 4G signal is weak and barely usable. 5G is just being deployed and I should have “ok” coverage in 12 months. I was planning to order a Max Transit 5G, but have been advised that there is a shortage of stock and the ETA is likely to be 6+ months. As an alternative, the supplier has offered a BRI Pro 5G which is almost 2x the cost. Is this a good option, or would I be better using a Max Transit Duo and leveraging SpeedFusion? Also, any views on the Pepwave 40G Marine antenna? Thanks, Ash - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 14, 2021 at 8:51 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-4532) Hi Ash, I would be wary of 5G being stronger than 4G – if you already have weak signal on 4G, make sure they are actually investing in 5G in that area. It’s pretty typical for 5G to follow 4G coverage, so that could be a concern. The choice you’re trying to make is one I get asked about frequently, and it’s because the MAX Transit 5G and BR1 Pro 5G aren’t easy to choose from. The MAX Transit 5G has a worse WiFi radio than the BR1 Pro 5G which is disappointing. However, it does have WiFi as WAN, which is a commonly used feature on boats, while the BR1 Pro 5G does not. The BR1 also has a better CPU which allows it to do more in general. The bigger challenge is that a more enterprise or flagship product in the MAX Transit 5G is CHEAPER than the BR1? All I can assume is at some point Peplink will come out with a refreshed MAX Transit that will have a similar or better CPU, but I don’t know when. I also don’t know if the modem in both of these is the same – the global version (not US) has the same band support, but that doesn’t mean they’re identical. My testing with the MAX Transit 5G has not been that impressive so far. As to whether you want a single or dual radio, that is dictated by your need for always on connectivity. The Pepwave 40G Marine Antenna looks amazing on paper – the best antenna out there. I hope to have some soon to test. - Ash [September 20, 2021 at 11:45 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-5075) Steve – There are availability options on the Duo, so I have settled on the Max Transit CAT18\. Would I be best with one 40G antenna, two 20G or something else? My boat is not that large (31ft cruiser), so I am concerned that a 40G may look pretty odd. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 21, 2021 at 6:19 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-5122) Hi Ash, Having two separate antennas is always better for diversity and performance. However, it might be good to look at the 40G and 20G specs to see the differences. From what I remember, the 40G had excellent performance in the lower bands which are important on the water, and the 20G slightly less. - Ash [September 14, 2021 at 6:55 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-4592) Thanks Steve. If I was to go with the Duo, would the 40G antenna still be suitable? - Tricia [September 20, 2021 at 11:38 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-5059) Steve – as others have said – thanks so much for sharing all of this great information. I am trying to set up the modular, cheaper boat internet you wrote about back in May, 2018\. We have a Mikrotik Groove that we use to access marina wifi. For cellular access, the Netgear LB1120 you recommended back in 2018 appears to no longer be available. Can I use the Netgear Nighthawk M1 hotspot like the LB1120, i.e. connect it directly to my onboard router via ethernet? If not, do you know if there is a current replacement for the Netgear LB1120? I am fine with manually switching between marina wifi and cellular by changing the input to the router. Thanks again! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 21, 2021 at 6:25 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-5123) Hi Tricia, There is a new model called the LM1200 that appears to be the upgrade to the LL120\. I’ve not tested it myself, but it has similar properties to the original one. If you wanted something a bit more flexible, I would definitely consider the Nighthawk. There is a 5G version I am just now testing that has an ethernet port on it (expensive though) which I will be writing about soon. It could be used in the same way, but also is a WiFi hotspot itself just in case other things fail. - Tricia [September 24, 2021 at 6:58 am](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-5320) Hi Steve – I purchased the LM1200 and an ATT 100GB prepaid data plan. The LM1200 will not connect to the ATT network. ATT is telling me that the LM1200 is not compatible with ATT even though the LM1200 literature says it is certified for use with ATT. I also bought a Nighthawk hotspot so I might try that next. - Tricia Evangelista [September 24, 2021 at 6:40 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-5327) The Nighthawk MR1100 that I purchased on Amazon also did not work with the ATT SIM card they gave me. ATT said it was a Netgear problem while Netgear said it was an ATT problem. I went to another ATT store and bought an ATT branded Nighthawk MR1100 which finally worked with an ATT 100GB data plan sim. Took more than ten hours but looks like we will have internet as we head south this week. Thanks again for the great info! - Richard [September 29, 2021 at 10:55 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-5565) Steve Thanks for all the info. I’m trying to create a high end system for my boat, allowing wifi and cellular (several carriers) using wifi to distribute to boat guests. As automated and seamless as possible prioritizing the fastest connection. The hd1 dome looks like a good answer. Since it’s a single radio device, would I want two? How connected? I use a sim injector then ? And a max transit to add the external wifi? And create my wifi lan? With one or two 496 antennas? To extend the wifi in the boat, what are the remote access points? Is a wifi booster necessary? Suggestion? Am I missing anything here? Thank you - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 30, 2021 at 3:37 pm](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/#comment-5636) Hi Richard, I assume you might also be the same person who has emailed me privately. There are a lot of questions in your post above and it would really depend on your use case, budget, and technical ability. If you’re not the one who has reached out, please do by using the contact page on my website as this seems more like a consulting discussion. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 38 comments William Earl@William\_J\_Earl October 30, 2021 I have had the Peplink Max BR1 and the Cradlepoint IBR900\. The Peplink was not very reliable for my on my boat, with an external antenna on a 70’ mast, with or without a cellular booster, so I tried the Cradlepoint IBR900\. It worked ok, but, as others have noted, you lose most functionality if you do not pay Cradlepoint $180 a year for a license. I then bought an Inhand IR300 ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096XRZZ7J/ref=pe\_386300\_440135490\_TE\_item?th=1](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096XRZZ7J/ref=pe%5F386300%5F440135490%5FTE%5Fitem?th=1&ref=seabits.com)) for $168 on Amazon. It works great, has dual-SIM capability, and has no licensing charges. Inhand does have cloud-based management available, but I am keeping management strictly local. I can even send it an SMS to have it send me its current status and IP address (and even limit which phone numbers can ask it for status). It also supports Ethernet WAN, so I can have it automatically use a wired (Comcast XFinity) connection when at my berth at the marina. I am currently mainly using a T-Mobile LTE SIM, but also have an AT&T SIM at present. Both work, although I may try a Verizon SIM in place of the AT&T SIM for lower cost. Glen@glenlowe January 06, 2022 Thanks for posting this information, Steve. It helped sway my decision to move from Mikrotik to Peplink. I’m curious, however, how you were able to set up combining the bandwidth of 2 sims with the Pepwave MAX Transit Cat 18\. In my Pepwave admin set up, I have selected both sims (sim a is AT&T and sim b is T-Mobile) in the cellular settings with no preference set, but in my dashboard connection status, I see that only one sim is in use at a time. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 January 07, 2022 Hi [@glenlowe](https://seabits.com/u/glenlowe), The MAX Transit CAT18 is a single modem or cellular connection device. While it has two SIM slots so you can switch back and forth, you can use them both at the same time. The MAX Transit DUO, or some of the other bigger routers like the MBX line have multiple cellular modems and can have them connected simultaneously. Those get quite a bit more expensive, though, and are usually for folks who need 24x7 connectivity no matter what. Jerry Keefe@Jerry\_Keefe May 02, 2022 This is OT but any recommendations for Canadian cell plans for Pepwave gear? Leaving Shilshole for BC and looking for prepaid / postpaid data plan instead of roaming on Verizon and T Mobile. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 May 03, 2022 The best solution I’ve used, and recommended to others, is Google Fi. It uses the T-Mobile network in the US mostly, and roams on several Canadian providers. I’ve used the Unlimited Plus plan which was just upgraded to 50GB of data a month, and that includes roaming too which is much higher than just about anything out there. Just be careful about how many months you use it consecutively. I’ve heard of them canceling plans due to terms of service if you roam constantly. You also will be throttled or slowed down after the 50GB data amount, and that can be a red flag as well if you use all of your roaming data constantly. Steves@Steves August 15, 2022 I have a T-Mobile SIM that came with a ‘Franklin’ hotspot device that I got at one of their stores. Does anyone know if I can use this sim in the equipment cited in this article and discussion, for example Nighthawk or Pepwave? Also, any updates for 2022? thanks! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 August 15, 2022 Steves: > I have a T-Mobile SIM that came with a ‘Franklin’ hotspot device that I got at one of their stores. Does anyone know if I can use this sim in the equipment cited in this article and discussion, for example Nighthawk or Pepwave? Most all of T-Mobile’s plans aren’t locked to a device, so it *could* work on another device. The only challenge will be related to the plan itself that you bought the device with. Most of their hotspot plans aren’t device specific either, which means it should work. An easy way to test is to try it in another device and see if things still work. Steves@Steves↩ #9 August 16, 2022 steve: > evice, so it *could* work on another device. The only challenge will be related to the plan itself that you bought the device with. Most of their hotspot plans aren’t device specific either, which means it should work. An easy way to test is to try it in another device and see if things still work. thanks Steve. Is the Nighthawk still your recommendation for an entry level, sub-$500 solution for cell internet via one sim or marina wifi when available? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 August 17, 2022 Steves: > thanks Steve. Is the Nighthawk still your recommendation for an entry level, sub-$500 solution for cell internet via one sim or marina wifi when available? The Nighthawk is still my recommendation for a hotspot device with a single SIM. It won’t work with local marina WiFi, however. You’d need a Peplink or other similar router with WiFi as WAN if you wanted to do that. Steves@Steves August 17, 2022 double thanks, Steve. I did not realize that about the local marina wifi. I looked at Peplink Max BR Mini and see that you can purchase an upgrade to unlock the WiFi as WAN capability (great). However, I got confused re: the different category modems avaialble. Can you please point me to something that explains these? (I do not need to be on the bleeding edge . . .) Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 August 18, 2022 Generally speaking you want to go for the newest category or most inclusive set of categories possible if you intend on using the device for as long as possible. For the BR1 Mini, I would get the newest device that has CAT7 support. This includes support for Band 71 with T-Mobile which is important for longer distance connections, like on a boat. The cheaper ones with slightly older bands are only $50-100 cheaper - not really worth that if they are that far behind tech wise. jimuhall@jimuhall September 20, 2022 Hi Steve - from your latest blog post it sounds like you’ve been spending some time this summer in Canada. Do you have any new recommendations for cellular data plans for folks splitting time between US and Canadian waters in the Salish Sea? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 September 21, 2022 jimuhall: > Do you have any new recommendations for cellular data plans for folks splitting time between US and Canadian waters in the Salish Sea? Roaming in Canada using a US carrier has always been hit or miss, but this last year it got worse than it has been the last few years. All of the providers have reduced the amount of roaming data you can use across just about all of their existing plans. Google Fi and/or T-Mobile seem to be the best choice right now for roaming if you’re looking for a new plan, but there have been wildly different reports from users. I’ve been using both T-Mobile and Google Fi with good results, but some folks have reported very poor performance or being cut off early in their data amounts. Generally speaking, and it seems like a lot of people have forgot about roaming (maybe because of not being in Canada during the pandemic), roaming is always a crap shoot, and usually only usable for emergencies. That hasn’t changed - if I were only able to use cellular in Canada, I would use it just for basic browsing and access, and would have to rely on local WiFi for any sort of streaming or remote work. jimuhall@jimuhall↩ #15 September 24, 2022 Thanks Steve. I am looking to set up a Starlink + Peplink system to enable boat-bound work (esp Zoom), currently leaning towards MAX BR1 Pro 5G as the router. So looking for a plan that is just gap-filler/failover for Starlink. Our family phones are all on Verizon - we’ll look at Tmobile and Google-Fi. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #16 September 24, 2022 The MAX BR1 Pro 5G is a great router to pair with Starlink. I’m in the middle of testing it’s slightly bigger brother, the MAX BR2 Pro 5G, which has dual cellular radios and a bunch more physical ports - might be overkill for what you need though. With as volatile as Starlink is in terms of use cases, mounting, and plans, combining cellular with Starlink is a great way to go! Steves@Steves October 31, 2022 HI Steve, I received my Max BR Mini and it works great. I have two questions: 1 what remote antennas would you recommend to install to get better marina wifi reception? Right now I am just plugging the peplink in on my flybridge but I would like a more permanent solution? 2 I mostly use local Wifi with the peplink, but i have a backup tmobile sim inserted for when I cannot get marina wifi. the issues is that i would like to have my devices treat the Peplink like a metered connection when I am on Tmobile because all of the media onedrive synchronization eats up my mobile data in a heartbeat. Is there any way to do that? Have a second virtual AP that only uses the t mobile, for example? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #18 October 31, 2022 Steves: > 1 what remote antennas would you recommend to install to get better marina wifi reception? Right now I am just plugging the peplink in on my flybridge but I would like a more permanent solution? The best antenna right now to use is the [Peplink Maritime 20G antenna](https://seabits.com/peplink-maritime-antennas/) with these [RP-SMA Male converters](https://onboardwireless.com/SMA-Female-to-RP-SMA-Male-Adapters-set-of-2%5Fp%5F111.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com). You could also use the [Peplink Mobility 42G Combo antenna](https://link.seabits.com/mobility42g?ref=seabits.com) if you wanted both WiFi and LTE. The 42G is not as good as the 20G, and it is smaller, but it depends on your space and desires. Steves: > 2 I mostly use local Wifi with the peplink, but i have a backup tmobile sim inserted for when I cannot get marina wifi. the issues is that i would like to have my devices treat the Peplink like a metered connection when I am on Tmobile because all of the media onedrive synchronization eats up my mobile data in a heartbeat. Is there any way to do that? Have a second virtual AP that only uses the t mobile, for example? Probably the best way to deal with this is to leverage things from my [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/) article and unfortunately some manual intervention. In particular I would look at QoS and bandwidth control. You could set the non critical devices to have hardly any bandwidth percentages, and the important ones with higher percentages. You need to make sure that your internet connections have correct settings for their upload/download numbers so those percentages work, though. I do something similar when I’m connected to remote WiFi, and for updates, Dropbox/OneDrive, and the like, I use the metered connection settings in Windows 10/11 to manage it. I also use [Low Data Mode in iOS](https://seabits.com/low-data-mode-helps-boat-wifi-use-in-ios-13/) and turn it on and off depending on what I’m connected to. There are more automated ways of potentially handling this, but it requires some more complex firewall rules along with priorities and such to try to catch the “bad” traffic when using the slower connection. The challenge is that systems like OneDrive and the like can change how their traffic looks as they release new features, and figuring out how to block it or slow it down can change quickly. aaccss@aaccss January 15, 2023 Hi Steve – I love your research and writing! Thank you! We are taking over a 50’ monohull this summer in Europe with plans to take it around the world and we’re trying to figure out a cellular connectivity solution for it. We have a 15’ antenna mast on the transom and are thinking about a Max HD1 Dome Pro, either on that mast or on the first spreader. A few questions: Do you have any experience or perspective with the Max HD1 Dome Pro? We’re thinking that a 20’ minimum antenna cable run would defeat the purpose of a separate antenna (like the 20G) on a cheaper router, but would love your thoughts there. I see that they now offer a mini SIM injector as well as the regular. Would the mini work for us? Have you heard anything recently about Peplink supporting eSIMs? Thanks in advance! Adam Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #20 January 17, 2023 Hi Adam, Congrats on the new boat and adventure! The HD1 Dome Pro will work around any antenna length cable issues. I’ve tested it and it is a very nice product, very similar to the [HD1 Dome](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/) I reviewed a couple of years ago. They have been around a number of years, and I used them extensively on my on boat for several years. The Dome Pro has a WiFi radio in it, which is a new feature, and of course the 5G radio. Not sure I understand your question on a 20’ antenna run? The mini SIM injector could definitely work for you if you are using the dome. There are some random Peplink products that support eSIMs, but for very specific reasons. Their general routers do not as far as I am aware. aaccss@aaccss↩ #21 January 17, 2023 aaccss: > We’re thinking that a 20’ minimum antenna cable run would defeat the purpose of a separate antenna (like the 20G) on a cheaper router, but would love your thoughts there Hi Steve – Thanks for the quick response! The “20’ antenna run question” was asking if the combination of a discrete router and an antenna could be a viable alternative to the Max HD1 Dome Pro, or would the loss from a 20’ cable between the router and the antenna make this not feasible. Also, reading your posts from a few years ago, it seems that you were having lots of problems with the SIM Inserter. Have those issues since been resolved? Adam Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #22 January 17, 2023 20’ from antenna to router isn’t a problem at all. That’s what I have right now for my two antennas, and that is the rule of thumb length-wise that I’ve used for 100’s of installations. In many cases, the router is put nearer to the antennas specifically to keep that length down, and then an access point for WiFi is used closer to where people will be working from. The SIM injector had some issues early on, but it is a lot more reliable now. It’s still a bit different than using a real SIM card, and requires some futzing there if you change things a lot, but otherwise works well. aaccss@aaccss January 17, 2023 Super helpful! Thank you! AndrewServ@AndrewServ January 30, 2023 Hi Steve, I’m hoping you can help me with some advice about potentially using different antennas for a 2x2 MIMO - but before I do - I really appreciate your site and your topics, you’ve inspired me to put an RPI in my boat, though a topic for another day… Here’s my situation - I’m setting up a local internet capability on a cruiser boat being used in the Great Lakes, Canada. Our goal (my wife and daughter’s goal) is connectivity in areas where cell coverage is weak, we’re less focused on high speed / Netflix streaming. For those who are familiar - we’ll be making trips through the North Channel - north of Manitoulin Island. I’m looking at an RUTX11 or Max BR1 Mk2, so I’ll have 2 Wifi and 2 LTE (CAT 6) antenna ports. Here’s my dilemma for LTE: connect both ports to a 20G for MIMO … OR… connect 1 port to a higher gain / longer range SISO antenna (like a Poynting OMNI-400) and the other port to a much smaller puck style antenna (22G or PUCK-5)… Best solution would clearly be 2 high-gain SISO, but I don’t have the room! Do I create an issue if the 2 LTE antenna’s aren’t equally capable? I’m less focused on the Wifi as WAN, but do intend to take advantage of the capability with an OMNI-496 (the only other space I have for antenna) and the other port connected to the same puck style antenna… And, of course, GPS and redundancy from the puck style antenna. Thanks in advance, andrew Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #25 February 12, 2023 Hi Andrew, I would lean towards using a single 20G with both ports connected. Even with the slightly higher gain of an OMNI-400, you’re not going to get as much carrier aggregation - when the two “channels” in the LTE radio are bonded together to two different or similar nodes on the remote tower. In a lot of low signal areas, I see this providing a better overall connection and usable signal than a single channel. Hope this helps! AndrewServ@AndrewServ↩ #26 February 14, 2023 Thanks very much Steve - truly appreciate you having real experience in low signal areas. Cheers, andrew Hartley Gardner@Hartley June 04, 2023 Hi Steve, After my less-than-satisfactory result with the Glomex WebBoat 4G, I’m again perusing the options I clicked on your link to the Pepwave BR1 MK2 above and it is apparently NLA - they are sending you to the “MAX BR1 Mini LTE Router (HW3)” as a sub - cheaper, too! I wonder if you’ve had a chance to see this? Hartley Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #28 June 06, 2023 Hi Hartley, I do need to update a couple of links in this article, including that one. The MAX BR1 Mini is definitely an option for a cellular router. Keep in mind that it is inexpensive for a few reasons: - It is an entry level product. You’re not going to get flaming speeds with this unit - Depending on the version you choose, you’ll either have a category 4 or category 7 LTE radio. Both of these are very limited and quite old in the case of the category 4\. Most new stuff is category 20 or higher. - This will be LTE/4G only, no 5G. Depending on where you use it, how it’s cabled, and where the antennas are, plus of course the plan you use with it, it could be comparable to the speeds you saw from the Glomex unit. Falkor@Tantram July 03, 2023 Trying to follow along and make best use of what I have. The goal is to maximize my internet options via both cell and Wi-Fi. I have a Peplink Max BR1 LTE and just ordered a Mobility 22G antenna. Do I still need a Groove or similar to boost the Wi-Fi signals, or will just 22G do? If I do need a Groove, can I use the 22G antenna for the Groove? It looks like it has 2 Wi-Fi wires and each have a different signal range. Not sure which to use if it’s needed. Steve Mitchell@steve July 07, 2023 Tantram: > Do I still need a Groove or similar to boost the Wi-Fi signals, or will just 22G do? If I do need a Groove, can I use the 22G antenna for the Groove? It looks like it has 2 Wi-Fi wires and each have a different signal range. Not sure which to use if it’s needed. The Mobility 22G antenna could be connected to the Peplink MAX BR1 LTE’s WiFi ports and you could use a Peplink feature called WiFi as WAN to “grab” a remote WiFi signal and pull it into the router. However, the MAX BR1 LTE might require an additional license to do this, although I did see they were relaxing this on some of their products recently. There are some downsides to using the 22G with the MAX BR1 LTE - it will share the WiFi radios/devices that create your local WiFi network and are used for WiFi as WAN resulting in less performance overall. This isn’t as big of an issue with some of the bigger Peplink routers, but the MAX BR1 is one of their entry level routers, and might suffer when used this way more than others. The Groove comes with its own antenna, so you could do that too still if you wanted. The Groove is likely to perform better and grabbing remote WiFi signals, but is harder to configure, requires a separate power supply source, and would need to be cabled to the WAN port on your BR1. Hartley Gardner@Hartley November 24, 2023 Hi Again Steve! I replaced the defunct Glomex with a MAX BR1 Mini HW(3), which I’m getting up & running before returning to the boat in a few weeks. The first issue right off the top was I needed a new SIM, as the one in the Glomex is a micro, and the mini needs a nano. So I went on Verizon’s web site and tried to order one - which turned into a week of customer “service” hell. Apparently, Verizon won’t acknowledge that the Peplink router is compatible with Verizon - even though their “bring your own device” (byod) page says it is. (I asked Peplink about it, and they pointed me to that page). So rep after rep would try to enter it, get some bizarre error response and would try to tell me my device wasn’t compatible. Today a “2nd level tech support” guy went in and told the system I still had my olde MiFi on that line, forced the Verizon store farkles to give me a new SIM, entered it into their system, and lo & behold its working! But I am still close to moving my 4 lines out of Verizon probably to T-mobile because this is just stupid. I note that if you use that “byod” page, it pushes you to a Business account, so maybe they don’t want personal account holders bringing their own stuff? Anyway, thanks for all the great advice, I’ll let you know how it goes when I get the antennas installed on Atsa Hartley S/V Atsa Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #32 November 25, 2023 Hartley: > micro, and the mini needs a nano I usually just use a [SIM cutter](https://amzn.to/46tXGXh?ref=seabits.com) and slice things down smaller. Might be an easier route if you ever have to do this again. I also use [these universal SIM adapters](https://amzn.to/46uGvEY?ref=seabits.com) to go back and forth between equipment that has different sized slots. All carriers usually freak out trying to provision any SIM for anything other than the standard mainline phones they sell. Many get really hung up on Peplink because they don’t understand what it is. Sometimes you can ask to be escalated to the technical team or a senior engineer and they will have done it before and can help. My preference is to never talk to them, and just cut my SIMs the right size, and put them in the devices. I have not had any issues with moving things around unless the device is so new they have never seen it. Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #33 November 25, 2023 Hi Steve, I think you are right - if I could have just slipped the old SIM into the Peplink, it would have just worked. But the olde micro SIM appears to be ceramic, so I don’t know if it would cut down properly. The new one from Verizon is plastic, and I’m sure it could be cut. I talked to the T-Mobile rep, and they knew what it was, and knew it would need a “data only” plan & a new physical SIM - no Unlimited Plan for these devices But thats OK, at least I don’t have to play games. I surveying the Internet, it is becoming clear that Verizon views an LTE Router as something for their “Home” product & plan line - and the thought of one of their “Home” devices moving around makes them crazy . “Just tell us the address where it will be located” My response: “Atlantic Ocean” =8^O . Hartley Hartley Gardner@Hartley December 14, 2023 Hi Steve, As promised, I’ve installed the MAX BR1 Mini on Atsa, and its working great! I had only one surprise - I put PoE power onto the #1 LAN cable, but it didn’t work. So I installed one of the PoE extractors onto the router end, chopped off the AC power cord (after testing the pins in the plug - it connects 12V to both +V and Ignition) and connected it - works a charm. The surprise was the wire colors inside the cable: black, red and white. You would think that it would be black -V, red and white +V - but no! White is -V, red & white are +V. I do have a problem with my Groove, however, which i’m sure is just configuration. The Groove is on its default 192.168.88.1 setting, and was working fine connected to the (now removed) Netlink router’s WAN port. When I put it into the BR1’s WAN port, however, the router passes it through and my laptop gets sent an 192.168.88.x IP - so I can converse with the Groove, but nothing else works! Should I move the Groove over to the 192.168.50.xx address space? I’ve set it up so the groove only gets power when I want it, but it would be nice to have both working together. 73 DE Hartley S/V Atsa Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #35 December 20, 2023 Hartley: > The surprise was the wire colors inside the cable: black, red and white. You would think that it would be black -V, red and white +V - but no! White is -V, red & white are +V. Yeah these colors have been frustrating. I’ve commented on it before to Peplink but it doesn’t seem to have changed their choices… Hartley: > When I put it into the BR1’s WAN port, however, the router passes it through and my laptop gets sent an 192.168.88.x IP - so I can converse with the Groove, but nothing else works! Should I move the Groove over to the 192.168.50.xx address space? That’s not normal behavior, so either your WAN port is setup strangely, or something else is going on. It shouldn’t pass the IP addresses back into your private network, and I wouldn’t change it to match that either. Something else is going on… Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #36 December 20, 2023 Hi Steve, I see I wrote that “red & white are V+” – obviously wrong Red and BLACK are V+! \[White is V-\] I think I’ve identified the connector as a Molex “Micro-Fit” of the 3mm persuasion. Yes, I must have something wacky on that WAN port, I’ll dig into it when I get back aboard - meanwhile the connection has been 100% to VRM since I left so I can watch my voltages & temperatures from afar Hartley Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #36 April 28, 2024 Hi Steve, Just got back from a couple months in the Bahamas - we shifted to T-Mobile before departure, and our Bahamas experience was mixed, to say the least. It looks to me like the Bahamian telco (BTC) doesn’t like LTE routers - everywhere we went, we had good service for a day or so, then dial-up speeds. Calling T-Mobile customer service (always a thrill!) would get it back up for a day or two, then slow again. Fortunately, we could still get email and WX. The Mobility 22G worked a treat - more range than I expected! I decided to quit fighting my Groove and use the MAX for WiFi - I scored an AP1 Rugged for the interior wifi network, so it should work for those places where marina wifi is an option. I have a question - is it possible to use the GPS function in the MAX for anything useful (like maybe telling my laptop where it is)? I see I can set it up to transmit info to a server, but does that work for local devices? Thanks! Hartley S/V Atsa Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #38 April 28, 2024 Hartley: > is it possible to use the GPS function in the MAX for anything useful (like maybe telling my laptop where it is)? I see I can set it up to transmit info to a server, but does that work for local devices? The Peplink products will spit out a pretty standard set of NMEA data/sentences that many devices and software can consume. Whether it is useful would be up to you but it can help when systems need a location for some reason. I’ve had people ask before whether they could use it for navigation, and I would not recommend that because of the criticality of that sort of use case, and the fact that a dedicated GPS with a purpose built set of software for navigation is a better choice. [![image](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/d01e8e2cb3b1ad04f6ad158b5b90779fc26dc563.png)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/d01e8e2cb3b1ad04f6ad158b5b90779fc26dc563.png?ref=seabits.com "image") Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #39 April 28, 2024 Hi Steve, Gotcha No worries on using it for navigation - but it ought to work better than my fone inside the boat. Hartley ### Starlink is not ready for your boat, yet... URL: https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:05:53.000Z 📣 Check out my new article on Starlink below with updates and better news! ![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png) Many folks are asking about whether Starlink is a viable alternative for internet connectivity on the boat. I'll cover what I know and link to some other useful bits of info. ## What is Starlink? [Starlink](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starlink?ref=seabits.com) is a satellite-based internet solution being created by SpaceX which has been in beta test for a while. It's based on a “constellation” concept using low earth orbit (LEO) satellites only about 300 miles up. The big advantage of something in low earth orbit is that it is closer to you and allows for much faster speeds and lower latency. The bad part is that means that the satellites are always moving, sort of like in a “train”, and that means the dish on the ground has to track a band where those satellites will pass through, which is more complicated to make work. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/forest-katsch-E-d5IGC-_u8-unsplash-1024x683.jpg) The Starlink 3 train rides across the early morning sky, accompanied by a handful of other satellites. Photo by [Forest Katsch](https://unsplash.com/@forestkatsch?utm%5Fsource=unsplash&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcontent=creditCopyText) on [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/s/photos/starlink?utm%5Fsource=unsplash&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcontent=creditCopyText) SpaceX has been launching huge quantities of satellites for a while now, and have coverage in very specific areas. That is changing as they continue to launch and configure more satellites. In the last few weeks, folks who signed up to be notified of the service being available in their area have been getting emails allowing them to place an order. While that is encouraging, release dates are still pretty high level – some regions are being told mid-2021, while others are being told later-2021\. I don't have any more detailed information on release dates than what is public, but it does seem like many regions are going to see production versions of Starlink this year. ## How is this different than traditional satellite? Starlink satellites as mentioned above are in a low earth orbit of about 300 miles. Traditional satellite internet solutions are much, much higher – 22,000 miles! Those extra miles add a huge amount of latency, or delay for the signal to go between the two points, and dramatically reduce the bandwidth you can use. In addition, traditional satellite systems are usually setup to track a specific single satellite once you have a connection, rather than a series of them passing by. ## What does it cost now? Starlink costs $499 for the hardware and $99/month which appears to be unlimited, but remember, things are still in beta. I'm sure there will be some sort of overall caps, and in busy areas with multiple users, speeds will slow down. However, this is pricing for residential systems, not mobile or boat systems. Residential satellite using traditional, non-Starlink methods from companies like HughesNet and Viasat cost $100 or more for a data-capped plan that only has 10-35Mbps speeds. These are much higher latency systems, sometimes requiring a phone line to work, and these are residential solutions, not mobile or maritime. ## What will it cost for boats? There isn't a mobile version of Starlink, so there isn't any pricing yet, and I doubt we will have any for a while. The big question is whether it will be cheaper than current satellite internet solutions for boats, and I think this is a big grey area. Residential internet has subsidies and discounts from local and federal governments, while mobile satellite internet on a boat does not. That means your per-month operating cost is not going to be $99 – it will be much higher on a boat. Maritime satellite plans are quite expensive with current solutions. You can expect a minimum of $1000/month for most basic services, all the way up to $10k and beyond depending on your usage. The cost of a static dish is much cheaper than one that rotates and tracks things dynamically, works in a salt environment, and runs off of DC power more efficiently. So the hardware is going to cost more. Hopefully not as expensive as current mobile/marine solutions – those can easily be $15k for a good KVH setup, and much more. So I don't think that you'll see Starlink mobile/maritime priced at $99/month. It takes more expensive satellites to provide service in remote locations that likely won't be a priority for ground stations (see below), and you'll need a more complicated antenna to make it work. I do believe that Starlink will revolutionize satellite internet (it already has essentially) and drive prices down everywhere, but to expect it to be cheaper than current satellite solutions, or cheaper than LTE solutions, is just not something I think is going to happen in the short term. New technology always costs more, and nothing on a boat ever seems to be cheap! The folks over at Sea-Tech Systems have written up a [good article on using Starlink aboard](https://seatech.systems/2021/02/09/can-i-use-starlink-on-my-boat/?ref=seabits.com) which has some info in it backing up the details above, as well as an [excellent article on S/V Delos Viasat system](https://seatech.systems/2020/03/31/how-do-i-get-high-speed-internet-on-my-boat/?ref=seabits.com) and the true cost of something that you can buy today. ## What about speeds? Beta testers have been seeing anywhere from 50-150Mbps download speeds, and uploads up to 25Mbps. The latency is what is amazing – given that the Starlink satellites are much closer than traditional satellite internet (300 miles versus 22,000), you end up with a shorter journey for your data, which results in latencies at or slightly above LTE. There have also been reports 10-30 second outages as one satellite hands off to another, although this is suspected to be something that will improve with software tweaks. Many people who have used it with Zoom and other latency sensitive programs like gaming have said the outages cause major interruptions, so there's still work to be done before this can replace existing solutions. However, the speeds in general have been amazing compared to traditional satellite, and as Starlink continue to make improvements, it will only get better. The speeds in general are comparable to very good LTE signals both in terms of download and upload, and slightly higher in terms of latency. A phenomenal achievement! ## What are ground stations? The constellations of satellites need some way to actually get an internet signal, and that is done using a ground station. Part of the challenge with a train design is that you need a lot more ground stations that the satellites can point down at and get their internet signal from since they are moving across the sky constantly. A more traditional satellite really only needs one ground station since it is essentially staying in a fixed position above. Starlink is building hundreds of these ground stations which will take quite a bit of time. Keep in mind that if you are offshore, Starlink won't have any way of connecting to a ground station, and may not be a viable technology for some time. Newer versions of the satellites use lasers between each one, allowing each satellite in a train to communicate to the one next in line, thereby connecting them together in a string until one has a ground station. Can laser internet satellites beat laser cats? I think not! So, while ground stations might work in populated areas, more remote areas that you might cruise in could potentially not have one in sight of a train right now, or may not have the new updated laser satellites. ## Have you tested it? I've done a couple of days worth of tests with a unit that belonged to a beta tester at their house. I was not a beta tester (I tried to be!) and do not have a unit at this time. However, a couple of days of testing is a far cry from my usual test methodology, so my first impressions are just that – first impressions and not a full set of tests. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/0I4dRpt-1024x768.jpg) **Image courtesy of Wondering-coder/Imgur* ## Did it work? I tested the unit in a stationary location and it worked fine, of course, and I was impressed with the throughput and latency. I simulated being at anchor by using a slowly rotating turntable and it did not work hardly at all, as I would expect. Others have tested on cars and vans and it has not worked there either in any reliable form. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/starlink-setup-1024x326.png) Starlink “user terminal” pieces ## Why wouldn't it work? The primary reason is that the current solution was built to be stationary. The receiver is designed to find a track or train and lock onto that and not move. Any sort of movement at anchor or on a mooring, or while underway, is going to mess up the lock that the receiver has. Some have theorized that a software solution would fix this given that this is a phased array antenna being used, and that is possible. There's even been some tests on jets and ships that have shown that it works, but the details of how those tests were performed aren't 100% clear. I think it might be more likely to be a combination of software improvements and perhaps a small gimbal or other device to help in extreme situations, but these are all just guesses. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/IMG_0533-1024x768.jpeg) Intelian motorized satellite mount – from an old system on Rendezvous There may be a need for a similar mount to what traditional satellite systems are using, but it is too early to tell. ## When will there be a mobile solution? Probably not for a year or longer. The priority for Starlink is residences that don't have high speed internet now, both in the US and globally. Mobile users come after that somewhere. There have been no official announcements, no timelines, nothing, so I would not expect it to happen anytime soon. Launching a global constellation of satellite trains + ground stations is a big job, and mobile just isn't something they're addressing yet. > Most of Earth by end of year, all by next year, then it’s about densifying coverage. > > Important to note that cellular will always have the advantage in dense urban areas. > > Satellites are best for low to medium population density areas. > > — Elon Musk (@elonmusk) [February 22, 2021](https://twitter.com/elonmusk/status/1363774017606348802?ref%5Fsrc=twsrc%5Etfw&ref=seabits.com) In a recent tweet from Elon Musk, he replied to a request for a coverage map that “Most of Earth by” end of 2021 will be covered, and “all by” 2022 for their standard service. Getting info from Starlink in general is hard, and tweets and social media posts have been very common for this rollout. We can't be sure this means all of the entire world, or just the “low to medium population density areas” which could mean remote areas, like where you cruise, are not even scheduled to have coverage by 2022. So, even if there is a mobile solution available, the areas you cruise in may not have coverage/ground stations/be supported. ## Read the Starlink FAQ! Starlink has created a [FAQ](https://www.starlink.com/faq?ref=seabits.com) that covers a number of questions, two of which are critical for anyone considering using it on a boat: **Can I change my service address?** *Starlink is only approved for use at the Service Address you provided when you signed up on starlink.com. When placing your initial order, you will have the option to select a different Shipping Address to receive your Starlink packages.* *If you have already ordered Starlink and your service address is changing please contact our Support team by logging into your account.* What this is telling me is that they really want you to keep it at the address you ordered it for. **Can I travel with Starlink, or move it to a different address?** *Starlink satellites are scheduled to send internet down to all users within a designated area on the ground. This designated area is referred to as a cell.* *Your Starlink is assigned to a single cell. If y*ou move your Starlink outside of its assigned cell, a satellite will not be scheduled to serve your Starlink and you will not receive internet.* This is constrained by geometry and is not arbitrary geofencing.* So…. essentially if you move it, it won't work. So probably not a good idea to buy one and stick it on a boat and go cruising. I'm sure some folks will figure out how to get around this, but I would not be surprised if this is a violation of their terms of service, and you could have your account cancelled as a result… ## Should I wait to buy LTE stuff? If you are starting new or need to upgrade, I wouldn't wait. LTE works now and will likely be a prime technology for several years to come. Remember, ground stations aren't going to be built everywhere, so LTE may be the only decently affordable way to stay online in remote locations. No mobile solution has been created for Starlink, and according to their FAQ, you're not supposed to move it, so you can't even hack one together without having issues. LTE or traditional satellite remain the primary choice, and will likely be that way for a couple of years. ## Bottom Line - Starlink is not ready for mobile use yet, and there are no concrete details about how or when this will work. - The cost is also unknown, and I predict it will not be as cheap as residential service. - Ground stations or laser enabled satellites will need to be available in more remote regions that you might cruise in and there are no timelines for that either. - Starlink's priority is residential customers in low to medium density areas, which means the above items might not be addressed for a year or more. - LTE is still the primary technology to use for higher bandwidth, lower latency coastal cruising needs. - Consider the Starlink FAQ – you aren't supposed to move it or use it on a mobile platform. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. David Geller [February 27, 2021 at 10:33 pm](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-1972) I think, for the near-term, it represents a superb dock-based solutions and have heard of some boaters having success with that form of use. I do expect Starlink (and perhaps Blue Origin’s constellation at some point) to disrupt the traditional maritime communications space. I’m counting on it. I’m also hopeful of two things – that a gimbaled solution is not going to be that difficult to achieve (the mechanisms are fairly simple and we have many examples of low cost assemblies – like the KVH unit I have on my boat). The second is that Starlink will, one day, have sat-to-sat-to-ground-station communications. That will dramatically increase not only the coverage area but, ultimately, the latency. It’s anticipated that when that technology is deployed communications between Seattle and London, for example, will be faster than through traditional terrestrial networks. In the meantime, for the dock, I’m hoping T-Mobile makes their Home Internet ([https://www.t-mobile.com/isp](https://www.t-mobile.com/isp?ref=seabits.com)) product available. For $50 that seems like an awesome way to keep my boat connected while at the dock. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 28, 2021 at 9:06 am](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-1990) I agree that at a dock it makes a lot of sense for a permanent connection. I’m also very excited about Starlink disrupting the maritime industry. Paying $18,000 for 150GB of data through a provider like KVH, and really slow high latency data at that, is highway robbery. The hardware needed just to do this is also far too overpriced, and has not come down in cost in years. I don’t think coming up with a gimbal/software/solution to the underway/anchor problem is going to be that big – the point of the article was that it’s not working now, and it isn’t something that is likely to be fixed with a simple software upgrade. I am very much looking forward to seeing new features and even better performance as Starlink continues to roll out. Its still early days for their solution, but they’ve demonstrated that they’ve approached this problem from a completely different angle from traditional methods. Better latency, faster speeds, and more coverage are all things they’ve alluded to in various AMA sessions, and I can’t wait to see what happens! Owen Anderson [February 28, 2021 at 12:04 am](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-1973) re: movement at anchor, I think you’re underestimating the effect of phased-array antennas. The key idea here is that the “dish” consists of an array of small antennas, and by operating them simultaneously slightly out of phase with each other, one can use self-interference to effectively “steer” the antenna’s beam in a direction other than straight ahead. And it’s a purely electronic process, not mechanical, so response time can be very good. What remains to be seen is how wide of beam steering angle current Starlink dishes can handle before they need mechanical adjustment. The wider it is, the more and faster movement they’ll be able to handle. Starlink has demonstrated Starlink operating on fighter jets in movement (though presumably NOT with consumer-class hardware), so it’s definitely not \*impossible\*. I’m optimistic that Starlink will be a viable option for at-anchor internet in remote locations in the 2-3 year time frame. I’m also not quite as pessimistic as you on pricing. I expect mobile use to cost more than stationary, but I’d be shocked if it ends up being anywhere close to the cost of current satellite internet. The incremental cost to Starlink for a mobile customers aren’t a lot more than a fixed customer – it’s overwhelming just the R&D and capital costs of deploying the constellation in the first place. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 28, 2021 at 8:57 am](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-1988) I’m aware of how the antenna works and its design, but so far, no one has shown that it can work the way that is being theorized. Perhaps that is because the software doesn’t know how to do this yet, which is completely possible. Even if it is capable of handling the movement at anchor, I think the yaw and pitch movement while underway is going to be another level of challenge. I’m also assuming that the fighter jet test included not only a different/bigger/better array, but also some sort of mount that is not available to us yet either. My point overall is that the current user terminal is not likely going to be the thing you use on a boat. Starlink have even admitted that the power usage (right around 100W) is too high for mobile applications, and that they intend on improving it through different hardware outside of the dish part. I think the exciting thing is the fact that someone has designed something completely new from the ground up with a different approach to solving the internet problem, and it opens up a wealth of potential solutions for us on boats – when they’re designed and delivered. That’s the point of this article – Starlink isn’t ready for boats quite yet, but it is promising. I think the 2-3 year timeframe matches perfectly with my expectations as well. It’s going to take time to figure out the software, hardware, and business model, and for it to become a priority with Starlink. I’m less optimistic about the price of a maritime solution being as cheap as LTE because, well, Starlink is a company trying to make a profit. They’ve demonstrated they’re going to offer a reasonably priced residential, rural internet service. That market wouldn’t support something atrociously expensive, but the marine market has an established pricing model for internet access being very expensive in the satellite world. I don’t think it will be in the realm of the current satellite pricing, but I do think it will be several times more expensive than any current LTE solution for the foreseeable future. Owen Anderson [March 8, 2021 at 3:01 pm](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-2336) Starlink just filed with the FCC for licensing for mobile installations: [https://fcc.report/IBFS/SES-LIC-INTR2021-00934](https://fcc.report/IBFS/SES-LIC-INTR2021-00934?ref=seabits.com) Some analysis here: [https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2021/03/spacex-plans-starlink-broadband-for-cars-boats-and-planes/](https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2021/03/spacex-plans-starlink-broadband-for-cars-boats-and-planes/?ref=seabits.com) Mike Harrington [March 8, 2021 at 6:47 pm](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-2342) On Friday, Starlink submitted an application to extend their license to allow for earth stations on airplanes, vehicles, and “ships”! [https://www.geekwire.com/2021/spacex-seeks-fcc-ok-extend-starlink-satellite-data-service-vehicles-boats-planes/](https://www.geekwire.com/2021/spacex-seeks-fcc-ok-extend-starlink-satellite-data-service-vehicles-boats-planes/?ref=seabits.com) Neil Ramsey [March 19, 2021 at 11:50 am](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-2757) Starlink does work on a boat that is moored. Our sailboat wanders and wiggles in the wind and I have the dish temporarily mounted with a piece of PVC pipe. There is horizontal movement of 18 inches and some vertical and angular movement. The speed does not appear to be affected at all. I suspect that SpaceX had more than “theory” when they started cranking these things out. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 19, 2021 at 9:50 pm](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-2770) Thanks for the report! In my testing at a dock things worked fine, even with small movements due to wakes and lines stretching and such. Mike Harrington [April 16, 2021 at 1:47 pm](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-3496) “Later this year…” [https://www.pcmag.com/news/movable-satellite-internet-spacex-to-lift-geo-restriction-on-starlink-dishes?amp=true](https://www.pcmag.com/news/movable-satellite-internet-spacex-to-lift-geo-restriction-on-starlink-dishes?amp=true&ref=seabits.com) - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 16, 2021 at 1:55 pm](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-3497) There were a number of comments and Twitter things the last 24 hours…. It does seem like they may make Starlink available to land-based things later this year. Still no confirmation about marine solutions or if they might not be ready yet. Two things to consider though: Starlink announced a lot of the “cells” are full until 2022 so they are slowing down beta testers, and some folks who have tried to change their address to a new location have found zero capacity available, so there may be an additional wait while they spin up more capacity. Elon Musk is very aggressive with his tweets and has often said things will be available before they really are, or only available to existing testers, etc. so I doubt we’ll all be using Starlink later this year on the boat. Here’s hoping, though! Enes Kirimi [May 2, 2021 at 4:13 am](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-3508) There has been a tweet this March from Elon Musk about StarLink on mobile vehicles that is interesting. He mentions StarLink on ships and RV’s: [https://twitter.com/elonmusk/status/1369051431903268865](https://twitter.com/elonmusk/status/1369051431903268865?ref=seabits.com) My question now is whether this solution would be good for sailboats as well, without a manageable-sized antenna etc.. There is a plan in place for mobile solutions at least, which is very promising. Ian Crosby [May 19, 2021 at 10:21 pm](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-3540) Not soon enough for Alaska this summer. In the meantime an Iridium Certus/Thales rental costs what it costs to be able to work remotely from Glacier Bay with no cruise ships. treysis [June 2, 2021 at 4:38 am](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-3547) Don’t know about the US, but here in Germany, there’s no subsidizing of Starlink by the government or local communities. So this argument is invalid in the cost assumption. It might be a bit more expensive, especially once Starlink goes out of beta, but I firmly believe it will be much less than 200 USD per month. As you mentioned, movement could be compensated (at least in less rough waters) with a gimbal-sort-of-solution. My biggest concern that we share is actually the energy consumption. If you don’t have a million-dollar yacht, your battery probably will be too small for extended use. Hoping for more energy-efficient versions of Dishy McFlatface. Neil Ramsey [July 15, 2021 at 11:16 am](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-3594) It draws about 10 amps so 4 or 5 hours of use per day isn’t insurmountable. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 15, 2021 at 1:33 pm](https://seabits.com/starlink-is-not-ready-for-your-boat-yet/#comment-3597) From what I’ve seen, at it’s peak it can use 110W of AC power which is about 1 amp of AC, or 11 amps of DC power. Compared to traditional gyro/gimbaled satellite that is pretty in line with some of the smaller ones, and much less than some of the big ones. Running it all day will definitely be a challenge for smaller battery banks / boats. At an average of 10 amps of continuous DC power, that’s pretty close to what a fridge will pull, which is often times the largest consumer. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 1 comment Steve Mitchell@steve October 06, 2021 I’ve done some additional testing with my own Starlink unit for about 2 weeks in marinas, docks, and at anchor, as well as on land and will be providing an updated article in the next few weeks on my observations. These include: - Challenges with sailboat masts in marinas - Using Starlink with prosumer or other routers And other thoughts… ### Finding a cellular data plan for your boat URL: https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/ Last updated: 2024-09-26T01:08:21.000Z One of the biggest challenges with staying connected on the water is finding an appropriate cellular data plan. Before you embark on buying a new router, cabling, or anything else, start here – finding a plan can be challenging, and no amount of hardware will fix that. ## What is a cellular data plan? A cellular data plan is different from a typical phone plan – they can be called a hotspot plan or data-only plan as well. These plans are created to provide a connection to the internet and do not generally have the other features and functions associated with your normal phone plan, like voice calls, voicemail, tethering, etc. They are typically used in a hotspot device or a purpose-built mobile router (not a home router) that is on board your boat which creates a local WiFi network. You can use that WiFi network and have access to the internet through the data plan. ## How is this different than tethering or a phone hotspot? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/personal-hotspot-1016x1024.jpeg) Tethering or using a phone hotspot is a way of leveraging your existing cell phone and plan to create a local WiFi network that you can access with other devices. Cell phone providers limit the amount of data you can use this way to very low levels, usually 10GB or less per month. It's also limited in both the size and strength of the small WiFi network it creates on your phone, the number of devices that you can use with it, and the strength of the phone's antenna to get a cellular signal. Many people find tethering a great way to connect while out on the water, and it is pretty cost effective if you already have a phone and are comfortable using it that way. Where this usually starts becoming a problem is with a bigger boat, more people, or if you want your boat connected 24×7 while you are away. Lots of folks combine a tethered phone with a cell phone booster and use this while out on the water. It's a great way to have connectivity aboard, but it has its limits – small WiFi network, limited number of devices, limited data, and it only works while your phone is aboard. The rest of this article is focused on finding a plan for a hotspot or router. ## Where do you find data plans? In the last few years, data plans have been harder to get from the three big US providers if you wanted it to work in a hotspot or router, and wanted decent amounts of data per month. Unlimited plans were even more difficult to find, and rarely come up anymore without having some sort of caveat. The two primary ways I find good plans is either through announcements like the one that T-Mobile made recently, or via 3rd party sellers, or Mobile Virtual Network Operators. The list of plans available in the US alone constantly changes every week, sometimes even more frequently. MVNOs come and go, big carriers decide to end or change plans with little to no notice, etc. As a result, keeping track of the most popular plans is a lot of work. I rely on two sources: **Marketing emails** – sign up for marketing emails from the three big US carriers and watch for special deals. That's how I saw the recent [T-Mobile 100GB for $50/month plan](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/) which is one of the best ones I've seen in a few years. [**RV Mobile Internet Top Cellular Data Plans list**](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/guides/top-cellular-data-plans-for-rvers-cruisers-verizon-att-t-mobile-and-sprint/?ref=seabits.com)– this list is maintained by my friends at RV Mobile Internet and is kept as up to date as possible. It takes time and patience to find the right plan, and sometimes you have to wait a few months to get one that will work out for the long run. ## What the heck is an MVNO? [Mobile Virtual Network Operators](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mobile%5Fvirtual%5Fnetwork%5Foperator?ref=seabits.com) (MVNO's) act as a store front, and negotiate a contract with a provider like AT&T or Verizon for a certain amount of data, and then take that and re-sell it to customers. Here's an example: AT&T sells a 100GB/month plan for $300 and has very strict limitations on it. That is a lot of $ for 100GB, and it has other limits around it after you hit that amount of data per month. An MVNO buys data from a provider and resells it to you under their own plan or subscription. They essentially buy the bandwidth and access to AT&T's network, and resell that to you in their plan. Why would you want to go through an MVNO instead of just buying directly from AT&T or Verizon? The problem is that the main-line providers, at least in the US, aren't interested in hotspots or routers, and selling unlimited plans. Their main market is phones & to a lesser degree tablets and hotspots. Those are all devices that they have tested, that they sell directly and make a lot of money off through payment plans, and more importantly, they know how they work and can control the usage more directly. This is where things can get challenging with MVNOs – at some point, they will get too popular, or price their offering way too cheap, and as a result, they end up having a bigger bill to their upstream provider than they have money coming in from end subscribers, and go out of business. Often times, this is immediate, and without much notice, so plan ahead! Always have multiple plans. Peplink, Cradlepoint, and other routers are not really a statistically significant thing to them, and as a result, they don't know how to deal with them in most cases. I have tried to call to have them deal with activations and other issues, and end up being sent around and around in and endless loop. They'd rather sell you 5 plans, each for $50, for each of the devices on your boat, rather than one plan that you use while out and about. They don't realize that won't work in many places due to signal levels, and that we're willing to pay more for a quality connection. So, what do MVNOs have to do with this? They help get around some of those limits and issues because they can decide how much bandwidth or data you get per month, and what devices you can use them in and how they “look” to the carrier – essentially making the SIM or plan a hotspot or router plan from the very beginning. ## Why can't I just use a phone plan? Phone plans are usually setup for, well, phones. They assume you are going to be using a phone device with the plan, and as a result, they have various features such as text messaging, voice calls, and data setup appropriately based on what most people use that style of service for. As a result, the data part of a phone plan can be very limited. This means that you'll either run out of data on the plan very quickly, or the type of data that is available in the “hotspot” mode, which is what a router would use, is limited in speed, and even smaller amounts of data than the overall phone plan. Carriers like T-Mobile also have begun restricting phone plans so that if you attempt to use them with more modern dedicated routers, they won't work at all. See my article below about this. [Problems with T-Mobile voice+data plans and Peplink CAT18T-Mobile have apparently blocked the T-Mobile One lines that have both data and voice from using a Peplink CAT18 router with the Telit LM960 modem.![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Connected-to-TMO.png)](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/) As a result, I don't recommend phone plans being a viable option. Some existing unlimited plans could work out well depending on the router you use, but that assumes you have one, and the provider is OK with your hardware. ## Upgrading Hardware Many people have plans that they have had for years, or just a grandfathered plan that has less limits than plans today. If you have one of these, such as the monthly unlimited Verizon plan, or some of the older AT&T plans that are unlimited, and they work for you, don't ever change them! While these plans are great, there are situations where upgrading your hotspot or router may cause issues. Verizon and AT&T are the biggest culprits, and often times will lock down the devices that you can use on their network, requiring you to provide an identification number (commonly the IMEI) from the device you're using before it will work. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cradlepoint-and-Peplink-routers_o-1024x903.jpeg) Many people have spent the money to upgrade to a new router only to have to spend hours on the phone with their carrier trying to get it added to their network. In some cases, the carrier will refuse to add the device, or will require that the plan is changed, potentially removing the data or unlimited status, which is a big negative. This is why I recommend pre-paid plans that are designed for hotspots whenever possible. Trying to get a carrier to use a tablet plan, voice line, or existing grandfathered line with newer hardware is getting more difficult every time…. ## Unlimited has limits Nothing is unlimited forever. Even if you have a truly older unlimited plan, there are always limits somewhere. Maybe not in how much data you can stream, but at some point, if you go too far, the carrier will cut you off for violating their terms (without much notice), change the plan, or your auto-pay will fail to go through, and the unlimited plan is gone. Nothing is unlimited anymore, and you should prepare for it. Just because you have a plan that seems like it has no limits, does not mean it will be there next month. Carriers are notorious for just ending a plan, and no amount of screaming and yelling will bring it back. Refer to my earlier point of having multiple plans. ## Recommendations ### Find Your Plan First! You can have the most amazing quad-LTE category 99 router with a billion antennas, but if you don't have a good data plan, you won't be able to use it. Search for a data plan first before you delve into buying expensive hardware, antennas, and run cabling. Understanding how much data you will use and where you will use it will help you choose a plan. Trying to find the right plan that fits your budget and has coverage where you'll be cruising is the first place to start. ### Consider Your Usage Understanding how you are going to use the internet is important to figure out how big/small/complicated of a plan you might need. If you have 2 people aboard and are only using email and browsing the random web page, you can get by with a much simpler or lower data plan. If you have a full family aboard with Zoom calls, Netflix streaming, and all of the other usual suspects, you might need multiple unlimited plans. ### Roaming Challenges Roaming can get complicated with MVNOs and some/most pre-paid plans. Most MVNOs like will not allow roaming, so they are only good in the US. Many pre-paid plans do not allow roaming either, so they won't be much use. As an example, I have an MVNO AT&T plan that will not roam, and a pre-paid Verizon unlimited plan. Neither of those will roam in Canada, so they are not useful to me when visiting British Columbia. T-Mobile's recent 100GB/month plan does roam, but the data limits are much lower. Roaming can also be expensive depending on the plan you have. Some will allow you a certain amount of data, and then cut you off, while others will charge you for any additional data you use. These charges can be significant, and you won't really know what they are until your bill arrives at the end of the month. If you spend significant time roaming, you may wish to look into purchasing a pre-paid plan from a provider in the country you're visiting, rather than relying on roaming. ### Have Multiple Providers and Plans It is **always** a good idea to have at least **2 different providers** and SIMs when using them hotspots and routers. Relying on one provider, even with two SIMs, might seem OK, but I've dealt with many folks who have gone over their limit on one SIM, and have had some other problem with the second one from the same provider. Or, if a provider is having an issue, or doesn't have great coverage, it's essential to have an alternative. ### Check your Hardware Cellular providers will routinely block specific hardware from using their network. T-Mobile did this with their [older One plans recently](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/) and blocked the newer category 18 devices available from many router manufacturers. Cricket also [recently blocked Pepwave](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/gear/cricket-wireless-att-prepaid/?ref=seabits.com) and other router manufacturers from using their popular data plan. Make sure you read reviews on any plan you might be considering to ensure that it works with the hardware you already have or might select. This is also another reason to have multiple plans through multiple providers – if/when they block your device, having a backup connection is crucial to staying connected. ### Don't Combine with Existing Plans/Accounts To keep things simple, I recommend not combining a hotspot plan with an existing phone or family plan if you don't already have it setup that way. Some folks were lucky enough to get a hotspot unlimited plan integrated in their existing account, and if that's what you have, don't change it! If you find a new plan at a provider, and you have an account with them, 99% of the time it is easier if you just sign up for another account with a different email than it is to try to integrate it with your current account. Not only will it save you hours on the phone with them trying to figure out how to do this, but in many cases, the newer plan is not compatible with your old one, and will cause all sorts of headaches. This is especially true with pre-paid plans. As an example, many people who heard about the recent [T-Mobile 100GB/month for $50 plan](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/) decided to sign up with their existing T-Mobile accounts. This resulted in huge amounts of confusion on T-Mobile's end trying to add a pre-paid account to a post-paid account. ### Order of Preference Post-paid plans, similar to what you likely have for your mobile phone, are going to be the best plans available in terms of performance, throttling, and the like. However, they usually have the smallest data allowances, are subject to being upgraded when you change your main plan, and are usually more difficult to get activated. Pre-paid plans are some of the best out there for hotspots/routers. They will often times advertise them and only offer them for a few months, but as long as you continue paying for them, they will continue working. Make sure you use a credit card that is always going to work, and if you have to change it or it gets frauded, you make sure to change it ASAP before the pre-paid date. Pre-paid plans usually immediately shut off and terminate if you miss a payment. This means the plan is completely gone in almost all cases, and the amazing unlimited plan you had access to that the carrier no longer provides is gone forever! MVNOs and 3rd party resellers are the final order of preference, although they have become more popular in recent years. If you can't find enough data for a particular provider, consider an MVNO. ### Don't Change It! Once you have a good plan, don't mess with it! This seems obvious to a lot of folks, but I've had a decent amount of people who have lost a very valuable plan because they made a change to it or the devices around it. This is also part of the reason I recommend looking for pre-paid accounts and not associating it with an existing larger account or line of service that includes phones and other things. If you have multiple people on the account, and a spouse calls to add a new phone, upgrade their phone, etc., the carrier may let them know that changes the terms for other lines, and they won't realize that means your unlimited hotspot plan now has limits! ## What do I use? I use a combination of plans from the 3 major US carriers. My primary plans, the ones I use day in and day out for my general access, are below: - **Verizon** – monthly pre-paid unlimited plan at $70/month. Not available any longer. - **AT&T** – via reseller for $130/month and basically unlimited - **T-Mobile** – [2x 100GB/month plans at $50/each](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/) – this plan roams in Canada I use the Verizon and AT&T plans interchangeably since they are effectively unlimited. I use the T-Mobile plans in the San Juan islands in particular because of their superior coverage, but I also switch over to them whenever there might be a coverage issue with one of the other two. When roaming in Canada, I use a mix of T-Mobile and AT&T plans which allow roaming, but I dramatically reduce the amount of data I consume while there. You can learn more about how I do this in [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/). ## Conclusions - Figure out your usage – consider roaming too - Use an MVNO / Look for pre-paid plans - Be prepared for it to end - Have multiple plans from different providers - Don't combine things with existing phone/home plans - Don't change it once you get it working I'm always on the lookout for new plans, so if you happen to find a good one, post it in the comments! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. joe brockert [February 21, 2021 at 5:52 pm](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/#comment-1721) Look at Visible. Its Hotspot from a phone only but truly unlimited. They throttle your hotspot at 5Mbps, no other limits on total usage per month. I use it for all my Netflix and TV streaming all month. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 21, 2021 at 10:34 pm](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/#comment-1727) I’ve heard good things about Visible, thanks for the note! Chris Holliday [March 9, 2021 at 10:47 am](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/#comment-2367) I got Visible working on my Max Transit Cat 18 and am regularly getting 30+ mbs down and 20+ mbs up. This is plenty for my whole family to work/go to school / watch movies and videos. At $40/month, that is a pretty solid plan that is currently unlimited. I have the T-Mobile pre-paid 100gb plan and get 60 down and 40 up but we burn through 100 gb in 2 weeks. I’m keeping both for how. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 9, 2021 at 12:13 pm](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/#comment-2373) This is great feedback! I have a Visible SIM but I haven’t had the chance to test it yet. I’ll move it higher on my list! Chris Duppenthaler [March 23, 2021 at 10:47 am](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/#comment-2938) Any thoughts about using Google Fi onboard? They seem to have a great deal where you can get an extra sim for no cost and just pay for the data you use like it was used on your phone. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 29, 2021 at 10:01 pm](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/#comment-3659) A lot of people I know use Fi and it works great, although it has much lower limits than the currently offered plans that are 100GB and more. I’ve also heard of some slower speeds and some devices that don’t support them, but that those were one off reports. Michaela Hammer [April 24, 2021 at 8:39 am](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/#comment-3503) Since I’m a newbie on all this and I need good consistent internet coverage to do Telehealth, please explain how these products will work with my Verizon package - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 29, 2021 at 9:56 pm](https://seabits.com/finding-a-cellular-data-plan-for-your-boat/#comment-3655) Unfortunately I can’t necessarily say how it would work with your Verizon setup without more information. This particular article is about finding a data plan. You might want to look at which is my recommended systems and plans. ### Remotely accessing boat systems URL: https://seabits.com/remotely-accessing-boat-systems/ Last updated: 2026-06-26T00:11:14.000Z Accessing your boat remotely is a common desire. Most people can access their home remotely, so it seems like it should be just as easy for your boat. But there are some limitations with the types of connectivity that most boaters have that make it a bit more challenging. ## Remote Access vs Remote Monitoring I think it's important to separate things into two different categories when talking about connected boats – remote access and remote monitoring. Remote access is a bit more complicated, and means you can access almost everything as if you were on the boat itself. Remote monitoring is usually a dedicated product that you install aboard separately from existing systems, and uses a dedicated app or service to allow you to see the status of specific items on the boat. I go into a little more detail below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Soekris-Jammy-with-ATT-hotspot-1024x768.jpg) Soekris net5501 Linux machine (left) with AT&T hotspot circa 2014 Back when I first started trying to connect my boat to the outside world, remotely accessing them was complicated. The first systems I had were all home-built Linux machines that used serial or USB connections to [GPRS](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General%5FPacket%5FRadio%5FService?ref=seabits.com) modems that had very slow connections. The systems required lots of fine tuning and were prone to disconnect and not reconnect, requiring a physical visit to the boat. Above is one of the more reliable systems I had which paired a Soekris net5501 Linux machine with an AT&T Unite Pro hotspot. This was one of the first 4G hotspots that I remember seeing on the market which happily showed up as a USB device when connected to a Linux machine. You can also see an Actisense NGT-1-ISO connected to the serial port on the Soekris box. At the time I was using [canboat](https://github.com/canboat/canboat?ref=seabits.com) and a series of custom-made scripts that parsed the various NMEA 2000 data on my network and sent text messages depending on what was going on. I also had a reverse SSH tunnel into the Linux box to access it remotely. I call this Remote Access. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2008/03/boatsense-solutions-main-1.jpg) Way back in 2008, I started testing a solution from Boat Sense Solutions that was one of the first, affordable remote boat monitoring setups out there. Unfortunately, like many companies before and after, they had [major reliability and support issues](https://seabits.com/?s=boatsense), and ended up going out of business. The product provided battery voltage levels, bilge status, bilge alerts, door open alarms, and the like. I call this Remote Monitoring. If you are more technical, then the rest of this article will be useful to you. If you just want to monitor your bilge pump, battery, and other critical key things, and are not technical and want a dedicated app and system, you will want to consider a remote monitoring solution like BRNKL or Siren. I won't be covering that in this article – that's a larger discussion for another time. I have a bunch of these systems on board, and they are very useful in their own right. Yes, there are crossover points with these technologies – remote access systems can also have notifications, while remote monitoring can also connect to NMEA 2000 networks – but they aren't as good at one as they are as the other. There are limitations on both fronts. Consider your use case carefully when choosing one over the other. ## Why is remote access harder on a boat? There are a few reasons that remote access is harder on a boat. Whether you are running a server aboard that you want to access, or are using various IoT apps like SmartThings or Philips Hue lights, there are challenges here that aren't the same as your house. ### Can't just “open a port” This is specifically a problem if you are running a server or system that you want to access remotely that doesn't work with a cloud service or is an IoT-thing. Cloud services and IoT stuff have other issues, covered below. With your home internet router, you may have been able to open a port or turn on a service like UPnP to allow access remotely to things at your house. This is a common practice, and combined with dynamic DNS services like Dyn or NoIP, you can have access to web things and other stuff remotely from anywhere. This works in most places because internet service providers allow your home router (or their router if you're using that) to get an address on the internet (an IP address) that is reachable by just about anything. Some providers block this, or like Comcast, block specific ports to prevent people from running servers or services on what is meant for residential, non-commercial use. Where this does not work is on shared WiFi networks, such as in a marina, or for any type of cellular connection. WiFi networks that are owned by marinas or other companies are usually locked down in various ways, and won't allow you to open a port or poke a hole into their networks. Not only that, your equipment might get a different network address every time it joins, which makes it even more complicated. Additionally, WiFi networks only work while the boat is at the dock, and they are notoriously unreliable. Not only do they stop when you leave the marina, but in bad situations, like a power outage, they often stop working at the most inopportune times. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/carrier-ip-addresses.png) Two different LTE connections showing unusable addresses Cellular connections rarely have a public IP address that you can open services on. Most providers have many, many devices between your connection and the internet (my day job at F5 Networks involves understanding some of these environments, and they are insanely complex) and there is no way you could ever have a public address and port. Opening up a port or poking a hole into your boat when using a cellular connection is almost impossible. So how do you get around this? The boat itself must connect out to something that is public, or to another location on its own. It has to know of a remote VPN server, remote proxy, or send its data to something that you can reach, because you can't directly get into it remotely. ### Connection quality Connection quality on a boat is not as reliable as being on land. Houses and businesses are usually connected via a physical cable of some sorts which offers a highly reliable and low latency connection. Latency is the time it takes for things to go back and forth across a connection, and becomes important with more chatty systems, and especially IoT. Boat connectivity is usually WiFi or LTE/cellular which has much higher latencies in most cases, tends to get slower and faster as you move around, and can be disconnected much more easily than a physical wire. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/latency-1.png) Wired (top) vs cellular (bottom) connection latency In the screen shot above, you can see a pretty typical scenario. My fiber-optic internet connections at home are on top and showing only a small amount of latency. Meanwhile, on the boat connection at the bottom, it is showing over 300 milliseconds of latency due to a lower signal level. While it might not seem like much, every single thing you do slows down exponentially because each packet or thing flying back and forth across the network takes even that much longer. Even if you do not want to run a server, you could be interested in using cloud-based things or IoT stuff like SmartThings, Philips Hue lights, Google Nest thermostats, and the like. These also have challenges with being run on a boat because of the connection speed and quality. I used to have Philips Hue on board [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), but I took most of them out and put in “old school” manual LED lights, still with fancy color changing remotes, but not controllable via the Philips app or even integrated with Alexa. The reason why was repeated issues trying to turn a light on with an app or screaming at Alexa when the internet connection was going through some sort of transition state. It was completely unusable in [Princess Louisa Inlet](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/) that year. Alexa is a [common thing to throw on a boat](https://seabits.com/amazon-echo-dot-perfect-sailboat/), and I like it for controlling music and other things, but it is still highly unreliable even on a [crazy connected boat](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/). The latency at times results in a voice command taking a lot longer, or even timing out. Connection quality is definitely something to consider if you are wanting to use SmartThings or other similar devices. Most of these types of devices are designed for normal latency, always available internet connections, which is not what you have on a boat. If you decide to use these systems, make sure you know the limitations. Even trying to use things like Grafana or other tools remotely which aren't IoT can be challenging with the higher latency, coming-and-going type of connections you might have with LTE or WiFi. Keep this in mind when choosing the type of things you want to access remotely. ### Limited data With the challenges above, it is a common thing to consider sending all of the things you want to access remotely to some external server – in the cloud, home, etc. But there is a critical challenge with this, specifically around limited LTE data plans. In particular, folks have asked why I don't use a remote Influx database (see [Engine and power dashboards](https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/), [Real-time weather from the boat](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/), and [Setting up Signal K and Grafana on a Pi](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/)) or replicate everything from my local database out to the cloud somewhere. There are a few reasons, but the primary one is the amount of data that would use on my LTE plans. My Influx database is about 20GB and that's only for about 6 months or less. While that's not a huge amount, it is still enough to be concerned about, even with “unlimited” LTE data plans. The other challenge is how these products deal with poor and no connectivity. Many database replication or other similar protocols don't expect to be disconnected for long periods of time (like being in an anchorage with bad/no cellular connectivity). And if they are OK with it, they will go crazy trying to catch up as soon as you're back, fill the pipe up, and cause even more delay while it catches up. Some people have suggested trying it only when connected via WiFi at the dock, which is when you would be monitoring it remotely – you're not on board. That is a possibility, but then you have to turn it off when you leave to make sure it doesn't take up LTE bandwidth, which is potentially a manual activity (that can be forgotten) – and then what you do you do to sync things back up when you're back? I just think it's more complicated than it's worth right now. You could design data summarization processes and only replicate the high points, but what is the point? If you're trying to remotely monitor your boat temperatures or battery voltages, summaries aren't what you're looking for remotely. There are some projects out there such as Craig Howard's [Signal K to Batch Format](https://github.com/c33howard/signalk-to-batch-format?ref=seabits.com) that take batches of flat files of data and sends them up when there is connectivity to storage on Amazon to be processed later for analysis. This is a good thing for bandwidth and connectivity, but it is not real-time – it's meant for longer term analysis. I've wanted to do real-time, off-boat data replication for years – I started looking at it with MRTG (if you know what that is, you're old like me) and even later with RRDs and copying things back and forth in 2005\. It's a hard problem to solve because of the data limits on being connected from a boat. Eventually when Starlink and other more unlimited data solutions become available in a few years on boats, I think it may be possible to finally replicate things real-time, but for now it is a bit more challenging. ## Why Remote Access? There are a number of reasons why you might want remote access to your boat, but the primary one is to access various systems and check on the health of the boat, weather, etc. Many systems on board now have web interfaces, or you may be using something like the [Raspberry Pi + PICAN](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/) and [Signal K + Grafana](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/). One of the biggest reasons for remote access is the amazing feature set from open source tools like Grafana. The dashboards that you can create are far beyond what any purpose built or marine electronics vendors provide, and accessing them remotely can give peace of mind in bad weather or when far away. You can also use Signal K, Yacht Devices, and a wealth of other vendors that provide realtime gauges and other useful things, say, during a storm that you're worried about. One use case I use all the time is remote desktop into a Windows machine that runs Maretron [N2Kview](https://www.maretron.com/products/N2KView.php?ref=seabits.com) 24×7\. N2Kview is a dashboard based system that uses NMEA 2000 data to do a lot of things. It has a whole alarm and alerting engine, and I use it while on board a lto too. Using remote desktop allows me to change settings, update alarms, and even open other programs like N2Kanalyzer, Actisense tools, and more. I could even fire up the navigation software, turn on the radar, and much more if I wanted to for some strange reason. I also use remote access to access my Grafana server to check on the[ environmental / weather dashboard](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/) the most. I can see the current wind, wind the last few minutes for any spikes, temperatures inside/outside/engine room, and much more. I usually am looking at this because there is a storm or bad weather, and want to make sure things are OK. I also use remote access to connect into my linux machines that run Signal K, Grafana, Influx, Plex, and tons of other things. I'll work on articles like this, update software, and do all sorts of other things. ## Considerations ### Security Each of the approaches below have different security postures. You should carefully consider whether exposing your boat data through a cloud service or proxy is safe enough for you. Some of these services involve a 3rd party that you pay, but if they are compromised somehow, people could access the web interface to a device on your boat. What is the risk? Well consider that most of these apps usually contain your GPS location and other information on all of the devices on your boat. That could allow someone to know where a boat with a lot of expensive things is sitting, unattended. That's just one of many things I could think of from a security perspective. If you need the most secure, then a VPN is likely the best choice, and not a distributed one or endpoints in the cloud, but one between devices that you own. ### Where will you access it from? Will you only access your boat from home? If so, a VPN between your home router and your boat, where the boat connects to your house, is likely the easiest. That means only setting up two things, and simplifies maintenance. If you want to be able to access things from your cell phone while anywhere, or from a laptop while traveling, then you will need a slightly more complex setup. ### What do you need to access? If you're only accessing one web server/application, then consider a proxy instead of a VPN or other more complicated setup. You'll still want to ensure that the application has a password and can be secured appropriately, but this may be a much simpler setup than any of the other choices. If you need access to everything aboard, or multiple systems, or are constantly interacting with various devices via SSH, HTTPS, and other methods, then a VPN might be a better choice so you don't have to go through more steps. ### Your budget / technical ability If you are wanting to do this for free, then you probably are faced with using open source VPN solutions which will require a bit more technical ability and work. If you are non-technical, you may wish to choose a proxy or a more simplistic VPN service. If those are even beyond you, then you should probably consider a dedicated boat monitoring system (not this article) or a solution that is simple but has potential security risks. ## Remote Access Methods ### Virtual Private Network (VPN) VPNs are probably the most popular, and more secure, than any other solution. However, they have traditionally required a lot of setup. Most people are probably familiar with them from their employer – needing to connect to something at the main office via VPN that is private or confidential – especially given how much we're all working remotely this last year. The good news is that many vendors have made VPNs much easier to setup, and in my opinion, they are the best way to get access to your boat in a secure manner. Besides the security, they will generally give you full access to everything on the boat networks as if you were on-board, where the other methods below only allow specific access to particular web or devices. There are a class of VPN services that have been sold the last few years that are designed to be used from your personal computer out to a service somewhere on the internet. These are designed to “mask” where your computer is coming from for privacy reasons, or to get around restrictions that content providers like Netflix and Hulu enforce. These types of VPNs are meant mostly (if not exclusively) for those purposes, and aren't the same as what we're talking about here, and are usually considered client-only VPNs. We're looking for a site-to-site VPN, a VPN solution that connects multiple devices, or a VPN that allows remote clients (your phone, etc.) to connect to it. Here are a few VPN solutions I've used myself. There are a ton to choose from, and they all have their own pros/cons. I'm not going to to go through all of the implementation steps – that would be its own article alone. You can read more about the different options from each vendor. #### **OpenVPN** [OpenVPN](https://openvpn.net/?ref=seabits.com) is a great solution that provides both site-to-site and client VPN solutions. There is a Community edition that is essentially free, and many routers include it in their firmware. Most of them will allow you to connect two routers and allow the two networks on either end to communicate with each other. This would be a good solution if you only really ever want to access your boat from home – setup OpenVPN on both routers, and have the boat router connect to your home. You'll likely need a Dynamic DNS solution on your home router to register it's address as it will change every time you reboot your router. This is what the boat router will use to connect – the boat is always responsible for coming up, looking for the home address, and then trying to connect to your house. Remember that the LTE or WiFi connection on the boat does not have a public address, so the house can't figure out where it is and connect to it – it's always one way. I used to use OpenVPN exclusively using Linux machines at all locations, a site-to-site VPN between the locations, and an OpenVPN client server at home so I could connect phones and laptops if I happened to not be at either location. These setups are well documented online, and will require a certain degree of network expertise if you are going to route entire networks between locations (static routes, etc.). #### **PepVPN** If you have a Peplink product, it comes with PepVPN which is a feature-packed VPN with a lot of features. I highly recommend using it instead of other solutions if you have more than one Peplink product because it has features that make it easy to use and deploy with mobile connections. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/PepVPN-connections.png) PepVPN and SpeedFusion connections If you have multiple internet sources, such as multiple LTE radios or WiFi, PepVPN is an amazing feature. It can be used with SpeedFusion to allow for automatic and almost instant failure. There are even features that help with Zoom and other features (a subject for another article in the works) and makes staying connected very easy. PepVPN at its heart is a site-to-site VPN that is meant to connect two more more Peplink products. There are a ton more features built in that provide customization of how you want the VPN to work, what happens in a failover, and even down to what traffic is routed where. Note: SpeedFusion is a different/complementary feature, which I do plan on writing about, but is geared more towards redundancy and traffic sharing, not VPN alone. You can have both (I use it that way) but it is a bit more advanced topic than for this article. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/pepvpn-from-boat-1024x286.png) PepVPN on Rendezvous using 3 different WAN connections to connect via VPN If you want to have a redundant, scalable, always on VPN between your boat and home, I would recommend getting a Peplink Balance-series router for home and creating a redundant PepVPN connection. I've been using one for years and would never go back. Not only is it almost set-and-forget with tons of features and redundancy, but the home Peplink routers outperform most of the other higher end ones and provide a lot of features and functionality that you would only find in enterprise products. You can also run a server version in the cloud if you prefer called FusionHub. It can be the endpoint that your boat connects to, and you can run OpenVPN on it and have your remote clients like your phone connect to it there. It does require a bit more setup, but it is an alternative if you don't want a Peplink router at home. #### **Tailscale** Tailscale is a new-ish concept to VPNs that is extremely easy to setup, and avoids some of the pitfalls of traditional VPNs. Essentially, it uses a distributed model where things that need to be connected together “check in” their info on a central coordination server, and then the individual devices connect to each other directly in a mesh, and are intelligent enough to route traffic the most efficiently. Traditional VPNs, like PepVPN and OpenVPN, use a hub and spoke method, which has some limitations. You can read more about how it works [here](https://tailscale.com/blog/how-tailscale-works/?ref=seabits.com). Some of the benefits of Tailscale include the fact that it is a full mesh, so if one thing dies, you could still get to other things without having to fix that failure. It's also very easy to setup – just download and install a small client on a Windows, or Linux or use their iOS app. They do not have a native Mac app and the workaround isn't that great. Tailscale is a service, so you have to trust them if you are going to use their service and coordination server. In addition, their DERP servers would be used in the case of some LTE connections, so your traffic would be running through their servers. Other similar services include [Pritunl](https://pritunl.com/?ref=seabits.com), and [ZeroTier](https://www.zerotier.com/?ref=seabits.com), plus many more. The challenges with these sorts of services is almost always security. You have to really consider whether the ease of setup is worth the risk. Having a 3rd party route your home and boat network traffic, and have the ability to connect into those points is too big a risk in my mind, but then again I am a former network administrator….. ### Proxies/Tunnels Proxies or tunnels are probably the easiest way of exposing something remotely for the mildly technical user. They are essentially a piece of software that you install on a machine on your boat that connects to something out in the cloud which acts as a relay to the thing on the boat. Or put more simply – you end up with a web address that is essentially public for something on your boat – no VPN, no complicated networking things. [Ngrok](https://ngrok.com/?ref=seabits.com) is my favorite one of these, and they have a very good set of tools and options. Download a tiny program onto your Linux machine, run a command, and you have a public link that you can use to connect to Grafana, Signal K, or any other web based tool aboard. To use it, you'll need to sign up for an account and get an authentication token. This is used to identify who you are and connect things correctly. It's free to sign up, but there are limitations to free accounts that might become annoying if you're using it remotely. - 4 tunnels / services - 40 connections / minute (should be plenty for a single user) - Random URLs The last one is the most irritating. Every time you start things up, the URL to the remote service is going to change. If your system reboots while you are away from the boat, this could be problematic unless you login to your ngrok account and find it. It also means you can't bookmark it. If you end up using ngrok, I would recommend looking at their [pricing](https://ngrok.com/pricing?ref=seabits.com) and signing up for a paid account. I use the Pro level because I wanted my own domain names for things, and end-to-end secure tunnels. Here's an example of using ngrok for Signal K. I'm running this on the system running Signal K, but you could do it from another machine – it's a slightly different syntax for that which you can look up yourself. ``` ./ngrok http 80 ``` This is starting the ngrok software, telling it that the thing you're wanting to expose is running a web server (HTTP) locally and that it's using port 80\. If you followed my [Setting up Grafana and Signal K article](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/), Signal K will be running on this port. This process is called creating a tunnel. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/ngrok-status-signalk.png) ngrok status for port 80 – Signal K You'll end up with a status page showing you if the connection is successful along with some other useful info. The most important bit is the forwarding details – in the example above, [http://74c723c52735.ngrok.io](http://74c723c52735.ngrok.io/?ref=seabits.com) is the URL you would use to access the Signal K server. This could be used from anywhere, so be aware of the security implications. For Grafana, it's similar: ``` ./ngrok http 3000 ``` Grafana usually runs on port 3000, so you need to change the port to get that piece to work. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/ngrok-free-status.png) ngrok status for port 3000 You can also setup configuration files that contain multiple tunnels, options, and much more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/ngrok-multi-tunnels.png) Multiple ngrok tunnels Above is an example with a configuration file bringing up four different tunnels – three for things on the linux machine locally, and one creating a tunnel for a Yacht Devices gateway. I'm also using Pro features that allow me to have my own domain names that don't change, and you can see traffic flowing through the tunnel at the bottom. The biggest con to solutions like this is security. Not only are you exposing something from your boat to all of the internet, but the company running the service is essentially in the middle between the thing on your boat, and whomever is using it. You must make sure that whatever application you're exposing has some level of security in it, or is read-only. Exposing Grafana is probably OK, as long as you keep it updated frequently, and create a secure administrator password. Exposing Signal K without changing the default password would be a huge security risk, as an example. Even without logging in, people could open up the Instrument Panel app in Signal K and add panels showing your GPS location, tank levels, wind speed, and other things about your boat. You might not want that… You also should highly consider using a secure, HTTPS tunnel, and pay for end-to-end encryption (Pro level) so that nothing between your client and your boat is viewable by someone intercepting the traffic. While this is one of the easiest ways to expose something, it has more risk than a VPN, and if you need to expose more than 4 or 5 things, or more complex access, it's probably easier to use a VPN. For people wanting to expose Signal K and Grafana, however, it is a very convenient and easy way to do so. ### Reverse Tunnels [Reverse SSH tunnels](https://www.howtogeek.com/428413/what-is-reverse-ssh-tunneling-and-how-to-use-it/?ref=seabits.com) are a very secure way of accessing your boat remotely, but require a bit more technical knowledge. Remote access using this method requires a machine off-boat that has SSH exposed somehow on the internet, or intermediary proxies and other more complicated things. Essentially you are SSH'ing from a system on the boat out to a remote system that is always reachable, such as a Linux machine running in AWS EC2\. That connection is a reverse tunnel, which means if you connect to the AWS machine, which has a public IP that doesn't change, you can then use the tunnel to connect to the machine, and potentially other devices, on the boat. It is a bit more advanced to setup than any of the other options above, but if you have a machine at home that you can expose through your router, you might have everything you need without any other additional software. It also requires you connect to that specific machine to get to the boat machines, or add routes and other things, and if you want to expose web services from the boat, do some additional configuration, port forwarding, etc. which is beyond the scope of what I'm covering here. However, it is a viable solution since it is essentially free software, although it does require an exposed Linux machine somewhere. This is what I used for years until I setup OpenVPN and later PepVPN. ### Cloud Services Cloud Services are usually specific programs or things running on your boat that spit out their data to something out on the cloud. They may charge a fee to do this (most do) and you can then access that data by connecting to a web thing somewhere in the cloud. You're not technically really accessing your boat remotely – you're just accessing the data, or a slimmed down version of the data, on a cloud server somewhere. Sometimes these can be more sophisticated versions of proxies that are purpose built for one particular application, send the data somewhere else, and end up costing you a subscription or fee to access. The other potential big negative with Cloud Services is the data fees. Since it is streaming your boat data constantly up to something in the cloud, you could be using a significant amount of data. If you are using LTE for most of your connectivity, as I do, then this could be a concern with monthly data limits. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/signalk-cloud.png) Signal K cloud [Signal K Cloud](https://github.com/sbender9/signalk-cloud?ref=seabits.com#readme) is a good example of a cloud service – it essentially connects your local Signal K server with a cloud version. You can access your server with just a [few steps](https://github.com/sbender9/signalk-cloud?ref=seabits.com#readme), and use apps like WilhelmSK to see it remotely. The downside is that other people can see your data as well, and you're replicating the data from your boat out to the cloud, potentially using more LTE data than you might want. Maretron has as [Real Time Cloud Service](https://www.maretron.com/products/cloudServer.php?ref=seabits.com) as well but it is quite expensive. It's dependent on how much data your boat sends to them, which is pretty typical for these sorts of services. My boat would likely be in the highest tier which would cost about $895 a year, or $75 a month. That does not include the LTE bandwidth I'd be using to do this. There are not tons of other marine-specific cloud services yet, although many vendors are offering boat monitoring (not full remote access) solutions which are sometimes a subset of the data you could get from Grafana or other solutions. Cloud Services can be in between full remote access and just a subset or summarized version of data. I believe we will see even more of these being offered by specific vendors, and being enabled in open source software like Grafana and Influx in the next few years. The popularity of dashboards with Grafana has really taken off on boats in the last year, and once we get better and cheaper connectivity (it is always getting better), we'll be able to do more real-time replication with solutions like this. ## My Setup I use OpenVPN as a client VPN for my phone, laptops, and tablets – my home router has it running and registers dynamic DNS entries so that my remote random clients can find it when the router reboots or the IP address changes. This allows me to connect to my house from anywhere. I then have PepVPN setup between the house, boat, cabin, and other locations. Everything connects to the home router since it has dual redundant links, and is the most stable location and connections. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/openvpn-home-1-1024x767.png) OpenVPN client setup on Peplink Balance Two router at home Because I'm using PepVPN, I get a redundant connection from the boat back to the house across my multiple internet sources. Even if one disconnects, another is already there, ensuring I can always access the boat remotely. The client VPN allows me to connect from anywhere into home, and home has access to the boat via the site-to-site VPN. If I am at home, I don't have to VPN at all – I can access the boat directly through the site-to-site VPN as if I were on the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/02/iphone-openvpn-473x1024.png) iPhone OpenVPN client connected to my home router I have additional rules and protections in place beyond this to help protect things and increase security and limit exposure – firewall rules, etc. My home router also has redundant gigabit internet connections from two providers and a backup LTE device just in case both of those are down for some reason. For my Mac, I use a program called [Viscosity](https://www.sparklabs.com/viscosity/?ref=seabits.com) which is a fantastic OpenVPN client that I have had a lot of years of success with. The OpenVPN one is not as good and is just clunky. I will occasionally use ngrok tunnels specifically for a vendor or individual that needs access to something, or if I am helping train someone, etc. but I do not leave those running continuously. It's too much of a risk to trust that whatever I am exposing doesn't have a security flaw of some sorts. Even when I do use them, I use specific DNS names that I have pre-configured, all SSL / TLS and fully encrypted from both ends all the way through, and every other security feature ngrok offers. ## Recommendations **I want to access a couple of web things remotely** – look at ngrok or similar tunneling solutions. Run it on a machine on the boat, access the thing via a URL. Keep in mind you need to ensure that whatever it is has a username and password and some level of security. **I want to access lots of things remotely** – use a VPN. It's more secure and allows you to access everything remotely. **I want to access Signal K remotely** – consider Signal K cloud, as long as you realize everyone else will be able to see your data. If you don't like that, then use one of the other methods. Ultimately you will have to balance security, your technical skills, features, and budget when you choose. Once you have remote access, you will never go back – it is so convenient and adds peace of mind when you can quickly get in and check on things, access dashboards, and make sure your home on the water is safe! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Mark [February 6, 2021 at 8:04 pm](https://seabits.com/remotely-accessing-boat-systems/#comment-982) Why not just use RealVNC? It’s easy to enable on the Raspberry Pi. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 6, 2021 at 8:14 pm](https://seabits.com/remotely-accessing-boat-systems/#comment-983) I think would qualify as a Cloud Service. The only thing I don’t particularly care for with VNC in general is how bandwidth intensive and latency sensitive it is. If you’re trying to access Grafana or Signal K over a marina WiFi or LTE connection, it would make more sense to access the apps natively than try to send the whole Raspberry Pi screen. If the connection is always good, then that could work It would also be somewhat limiting for mobile or smaller screen devices since there are little or no clients for them, and the screen would be mostly unusable. [Martin Jarvis](http://gone-sailing.uk/?ref=seabits.com) [February 7, 2021 at 12:18 am](https://seabits.com/remotely-accessing-boat-systems/#comment-992) Props for covering ngrok. It’s a great tool for tunnelling through firewalls. I have a couple of compute nodes on an “always free” cloud service running nodered and mqtt. I haven’t decided what I will do with it all yet! Scott [March 29, 2021 at 10:49 am](https://seabits.com/remotely-accessing-boat-systems/#comment-3183) Another solution is Chrome Remote Desktop. You can use Chrome on your SignalK server, install the Chrome Remote Desktop plugin and then share it’s screen using Chrome from any PC you want. It’s simple, but not the most efficient or bandwidth friendly I’m sure. It can get you started quickly, however setup on Ubuntu isn’t necessarily straightforward though. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 8 comments SanityCheck@SanityCheck February 19, 2025 Hi Steve, which Peplink router are you using at home? Do you have a cellular modem or router on your boat for internet connectivity? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 February 19, 2025 Hi there, My home is my boat so that may add some complexity here. I have a land-based location where I have some routers installed at a relatives house for testing larger scale WAN connections. My current internet setup can be found here: [Aruna's internet setup](https://seabits.com/arunas-internet-setup/) which has multiple different internet sources including cellular, Starlink, and the like. SanityCheck@SanityCheck↩ #4 February 19, 2025 ahh, is there a Peplink router you would recommend if that one is too much. We are going to be using it to work from boat some of the time and monitor the boat remotely some of the time. Do you think the dual cellular is super important? The BR1 is a bit more reasonable. We were hoping to stay in the $1,000 price range. SanityCheck@SanityCheck↩ #5 February 19, 2025 btw we will be sailing coastal for the most part initially. We do have a Starlink for offshore but we’re fairly new to ocean sailing because we recently bought a catamaran in Virginia. Our sailing has been largely in the Great Lakes so we’re just navigating all this now. SanityCheck@SanityCheck↩ #6 February 19, 2025 …also we are thinking about using nmea2000 devices to monitor (ie bilge, battery etc), possibly with Actisense or some other device which allows us to access the info through wifi when possible and cellular when not. I have seen some of your information on remotely accessing boat systems but really have to study it a bit more. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 February 21, 2025 The [BR1 Pro 5G](https://onboardwireless.com/Pepwave-MAX-BR1-Pro-5G-Router%5Fp%5F34.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com) is a good choice if you want redundancy (I highly recommend it) between Starlink and cellular. There are some other 3rd party routers that are good too - I have a couple of reviews that will be coming out soon on several that I like. I do provide [consulting services](https://seabits.com/consulting/) where I help folks figure out use cases, equipment lists, or full designs for some of the things you’re talking about. You can also just [schedule a 30 minute call](https://savvycal.com/seabits/chat?ref=seabits.com) (voice/video) if you prefer that way as well. SanityCheck@SanityCheck↩ #8 February 21, 2025 Great thanks, we bought the BR1 Pro 5G yesterday and are looking for a cellular plan. I have read some of your discussions where you recommend Google Fi and some others. I noticed some companies offer IoT sims. Does it matter if it is an IoT sim or just a regular data sim. We will only be using data. Also live in Canada and the catamaran is in the US but we also plan to travel to the Caribbean. Just wondering if you have any experience with “global” or “travel” type data providers. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #9 February 22, 2025 Lots of options if you are purchasing SIMs in country. Varies by country. The more common way with newer routers is using eSIMs which can be activated without a physical SIM and allow providers to sell you all sorts of easy to activate plans. IoT SIMs are likely going to be limited in terms of throughput for month as they’re meant for much lower bandwidth usage. ### Set up Signal K and Grafana on Raspberry Pi with PICAN-M NMEA 2000 board URL: https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/ Last updated: 2026-08-07T21:20:07.000Z With the advent of streamlined [Raspberry Pi + NMEA 2000 hardware](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/), building a dedicated Signal K server has never been easier. Signal K is very powerful, but most people I talk to want to go a step further and have Grafana graphs and dashboards, along with other plugins and features. This article goes through my recommended steps to set up the base operating system and common programs for those items. 🤖 Please note that this article was written in 2021 and some of the steps may have changed due to updated packages or operating systems. If you find something that needs to be updated, please [send me a note](https://seabits.com/contact/) or post a correction in the comments for others to benefit from. ## Prerequisites This is a moderately technical article. You need to have some skills with computers to be able to download software, issue terminal commands, and understand the general parts of what I'm doing below. Most all commands require sudo privileges as well, which if you are using the default “pi” user isn't an issue. If you're doing it on some other system, you will have to check your permissions. I will be using a Mac for all of my steps. If you're using another operating system, you'll have to adapt some of these steps. I will be using a [Raspberry Pi 4 with the PICAN-M](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/) add-on board that I discuss in the article below. I will be installing various Signal K plugins I consider to be essential to effectively use the server, and those related to Grafana and InfluxDB. We'll also be installing Grafana and Influx and creating a test dashboard and graph. This creates a powerful computer that will plug directly in to your NMEA 2000 network where it will get power and essentially be self sufficient. [NMEA 2000 powered Raspberry PiEasy to install Raspberry Pi computer that gets its power from the NMEA 2000 bus. Great for SignalK, OpenCPN, and OpenPlotter.![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/PICAN-M-cover-signalk.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/) Some people have asked me why I don't use OpenPlotter for this, and the simple reason is performance. While having one Raspberry Pi running charts, navigation and all of this would be great, I've never seen it work reliably on a boat with any decent amount of NMEA 2000 traffic. Raspberry Pi's are great computers for the money, but they can't compete against a proper laptop, PC, or even an MFD when it comes to doing lots of things at once. This very configuration below runs my Raspberry Pi at a [load average](http://www.brendangregg.com/blog/2017-08-08/linux-load-averages.html?ref=seabits.com) of 0.35 consistently while I am at anchor. Underway it is running near 0.75 and higher, which really doesn't leave any room for expansion. I also prefer having specific things isolated – if I am using something to drive my autopilot, I don't want it to stop sending autopilot commands because it is busy logging or drawing graphs. For that reason, I don't use OpenPlotter to do graphing and other things, even though their latest versions include Signal K and you can use Grafana on them as well. The ultimate goal is to have this hardware working with a stable operating system and related programs such as Signal K, InfluxDB, Telegraf and Grafana so that you can have a reliable node on your NMEA 2000 network gathering data, displaying dashboards, sending alerts and even more. The article below covers some of the dashboards that I use, and how I created them, and is one of the primary use-cases for my setup: [Engine and power dashboardsI have discussed my weather dashboard before in Real-time weather from the boat, but I have always wanted more visibility into other areas. I have a couple of new dashboards for engine performance and…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Grafana-Electrical-Dashboard-3.png)](https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/) ## Installing the Operating System I prefer not to use the provided version of the operating system usually shipped on standard Raspberry Pi kits. Instead, I use the Raspberry Pi OS Lite image which does not have all of the desktop components. This means it is much smaller, less software installed, and less overhead. Less software means less updates and downloads to keep things current. That's a big consideration with limited LTE data plans. Not running all of the desktop stuff means less CPU usage as well. The software image can be downloaded from the [Raspberry Pi OS page](https://www.raspberrypi.org/software/operating-systems/?ref=seabits.com) and you can write it with an image tool, or you can [download an imager](https://www.raspberrypi.org/software/?ref=seabits.com) that will take care of downloading and installing it all in one. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Raspberry-pi-imager-step1-1024x681.png) After downloading the imager, instead of using the defaults, choose “Raspberry Pi OS (other)”. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Raspberry-pi-imager-step2-1024x675.png) Choose “Raspberry Pi OS Lite” – you'll notice that it is quite a bit smaller – around 400 MB versus over 1GB for the standard image, or 2.8GB for the full OS. Once you've chosen, pick your SD card, and start the write process. Once it is completed, leave it in the computer as you'll need to create some files in the Networking Setup part below. ## For those who prefer life at 7 knots. Reviews, deep dives, and real-world projects from aboard my trawler [**Aruna*](https://seabits.com/aruna/). Subscribe Email sent! Check your inbox to complete your signup. Join 2,000+ boat nerds and helps support my journey. Unsubscribe anytime. ## Networking Setup I prefer not to have to find a monitor, mouse and keyboard when setting up RPi, and use either the ethernet port or WiFi to get things connected. Ethernet is easy – just plug it in to your switch and apply power. The RPi will pick up an automatic address from your router (DHCP) and you can use that to access it and get started. If you don't have a spare ethernet port, or if you set up a lot of these, like me, you can also pre-populate information on your newly created SD card so that the Pi joins your WiFi network on first boot. You'll need to create a text file on the SD card in a particular directory with your WiFi network and password. You can [read more detailed instructions on how to do this](https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/headless.md?ref=seabits.com), but I've summarized what I do below: Change to the SD card – with the current RPi installer, it seems to name the resulting image “boot” ``` cd /Volumes/boot ``` Edit the file for the WiFi info ``` vi wpa_supplicant.conf ``` Add this text to the file, changing the values to match your country code, WiFi network name, and password ``` ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev update_config=1 country= network={ ssid="" psk="" } ``` Save the file. This file will be read on startup and will connect to your WiFi network. Note that it can take up to 5 minutes before the install process completes, so be patient. In addition to the WiFi networking, you'll need a way to access the Pi remotely, and I prefer SSH. It is secure, low bandwidth, and very reliable. You can [read more about how to set this up here](https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/remote-access/ssh/README.md?ref=seabits.com), but my short version is below. You'll need to create a file in the same directory as the WiFi one above named “ssh”. I use the touch command. Nothing needs to be in the file. ``` touch ssh ``` This will enable the SSH server on installation. Put the SD card back into your Pi, provide it power either by USB connection or NMEA 2000 network connection, and sit back and wait for the install to complete. You can connect a monitor if you'd like, but I just wait to see a new IP address appear on my router. If it does not show up, you've done something wrong with the image process or WiFi setup above, and you'll need to troubleshoot or start over. ## Accessing the Pi Now that the Pi is on your network, you'll need to use SSH to access it. For Mac and Linux, SSH clients are usually built in. For Windows, you can download putty. I'm not going to cover more specifics with Windows – you should investigate this on your own. The initial connection via SSH is [documented in a lot of spots](https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/remote-access/ssh/README.md?ref=seabits.com), but here's my short version for the Mac. I will SSH in the first initial time, accept the new key from the device, and then share my SSH key so I never have to type a password in again. I also change the default “pi” user password to something complex in the event I do need to get in with a keyboard or mouse. High level steps: Initial SSH connection ``` ssh pi@ ``` The default password is “raspberry”. Once I'm in, I change the password using the “passwd” command. I then share my SSH key with the device so I don't have to use a password again. I highly recommend you use passwordless authentication instead of a username and password – [read more about how to set that up here](https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/remote-access/ssh/passwordless.md?ref=seabits.com). ## Update the OS Before I do anything else, I like to update the OS so I know I'm working from the newest of everything in case I run into an issue: ``` sudo apt update ``` Once that completes, you'll see whether there are updates to be had ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/update-packages-1024x375.png) Update the pacakages ``` sudo apt upgrade ``` Once that completes, I reboot to make sure there aren't any other updates that need to happen in the background, and then it's time to get into some basic configuration. ## Installation Notes With all of the installation steps below, I assume you are using the “pi” user that has already been created and the commands will assume that. If you choose to create your own user, make sure you have the right permissions with sudo. ## Basic OS Settings There are a number of things I like to do to any Pi image to help with identifying it (hostnames), setting the local timezone, setup automatic updates, etc. Set the hostname. ``` sudo hostnamectl set-hostname ``` Once you've set the hostname, you'll want to add that to the /etc/hosts file to prevent errors from sudo not being able to find it, and other programs barfing as well. ``` sudo nano /etc/hosts ``` After the entry for loopback and raspberrypi, add whatever hostname you chose: ``` 127.0.1.1 raspberrypi boatpi ``` Control-X to save and exit. Set correct timezone. ``` sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata ``` Set up unattended upgrades. This allows the operating system to update itself automatically and reboot if needed. ``` sudo apt-get install unattended-upgrades -y sudo dpkg-reconfigure --priority=low unattended-upgrades ``` There are a number of other things that I usually do such as email setup and gateway, setup apticron for email notifications of software updates, and more, but those are more advanced. You can see some notes about this at the end of the article. After doing all of this, it is a good idea to reboot to get the hostname to show up, and to let things boot back up with the correct timezone. ## Installing NMEA 2000 bus tools There are some operating system level tools and libraries that need to be installed in order to access the NMEA 2000 interface, more generically called CAN-bus. First, you need to edit the /boot/config.txt file and add these lines to the very bottom of the file, then reboot the system: ``` enable_uart=1 dtparam=i2c_arm=on dtparam=spi=on dtoverlay=mcp2515-can0,oscillator=16000000,interrupt=25 dtoverlay=spi-bcm2835-overlay ``` These add appropriate devices and configuration for the PICAN-M board. Once you've done that, we'll need to install the canbus tools ``` sudo apt-get install can-utils -y ``` Then we need to bring up the CAN-bus/NMEA 2000 interface ``` sudo /sbin/ip link set can0 up type can bitrate 250000 ``` We also want to add this to a startup script so that the command is run every time the system reboots. You'll need to create the following file and copy it into /etc/systemd/system. ``` nano socketcan-interface.service ``` Paste the contents of the below into the file. Press Control-X to save and exit. ``` [Unit] Description=SocketCAN interface can0 with a baudrate of 250000 [Service] Type=oneshot RemainAfterExit=yes ExecStart=/sbin/ip link set can0 type can bitrate 250000 ; /sbin/ifconfig can0 up ExecReload=/sbin/ifconfig can0 down ; /sbin/ip link set can0 type can bitrate 250000 ; /sbin/ifconfig can0 up ExecStop=/sbin/ifconfig can0 down [Install] WantedBy=multi-user.target ``` Copy the file to the appropriate systemd directory and give it the right permissions ``` sudo cp socketcan-interface.service /etc/systemd/system sudo chmod 644 /etc/systemd/system/socketcan-interface.service sudo systemctl enable socketcan-interface.service ``` To test that things are working correctly, you can use the command candump and see the raw traffic from the NMEA 2000 network. Warning that this can be a lot of data – to get out of it, press Control-C ``` candump can0 ``` ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/candump.png) You should see data similar to the above. This confirms that you are getting data from your NMEA 2000 network. If you don't see anything, then you have a cabling issue, configuration issue, or a bad board. ## Installing Signal K These steps help install Signal K and connect it to your NMEA 2000 network. The official Signal K repository has a [step by step guide to do this here](https://github.com/SignalK/signalk-server/blob/master/raspberry%5Fpi%5Finstallation.md?ref=seabits.com). I'm going to simplify the steps based on the hardware and goals we have. Install prerequisites. This is a decent amount of software, so be patient. It includes Node.JS, the engine that Signal K is run off of, and all the supporting packages. ``` sudo apt install nodejs npm -y ``` Install latest version of node package manager (NPM) ``` sudo npm install -g npm@latest ``` Install secondary dependencies ``` sudo apt install libnss-mdns avahi-utils libavahi-compat-libdnssd-dev -y ``` Install Signal K server ``` sudo npm install -g --unsafe-perm signalk-server -y ``` Now you have Signal K installed but it is not running yet. We're going to go through the setup script below. Run the setup process: ``` sudo signalk-server-setup ``` Once the setup script starts, you'll be prompted to choose a number of things. Below are what I recommend – obviously replace your boat name and MMSI. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/signalk-setup-920x1024.png) Some may wonder about my choice not to setup SSL – this is your choice, but I have found that serving Signal K over SSL, also known as a secure site or HTTPS, is resource intensive. On a busy NMEA 2000 network, it can add overhead that is not necessary if your network is secure. We also need to make sure that Signal K starts up after the can0 CAN-bus interface we configured earlier. To do this, we'll need to edit the startup dependencies: ``` sudo systemctl edit signalk.service ``` In the resultant editor, you need to add this text: ``` After=socketcan-interface.service ``` Use Control-X to save the file. This will ensure that Signal K starts after the CANbus interface. Once you've done this, Signal K should be installed and initially configured, and set to start up on boot. Let's get it started up and login to the web interface: ``` sudo service signalk start ``` Head over to a web browser and connect to the IP address or hostname of your Pi – you should get a Signal K screen: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/signalk-initial-screen-1024x655.png) Login as admin (upper right login button) with a password of “signalk”. You should change this at some point. ## Configuring NMEA 2000 Interface Login to the Signal K web interface as admin. Head over to Settings -> Data Connections. Click on Add and configure it as below. - Data type: NMEA 2000 - Enabled: YES - Logging: NO - ID: 1 (this is just a number I chose) - NMEA 2000 Source: Canbus (canboatjs) - Interface: can0 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/signalk-add-connection-1024x718.png) Once you've added it, you'll need to restart the Signal K server (upper right). You have to do this whenever you make a configuration change to the server or plugin, add a plugin, etc. Head back to the dashboard and you should see a couple of things: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/signalk-running-1024x702.png) Total server Signal K throughput – should not be zero. There should be some level of messages being detected. Connection and Plugin Status – you should see one connection and that it is “Connected” – if not, something is wrong with your Signal K configuration or canbus interface. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/signalk-data-browser-1024x706.png) If you have passed these steps, you can also click on Data Browser and see real-time the data from your NMEA 2000 network. You'll see something different than mine above, but you will notice the values updating every so often. Congratulations! You have a working Pi with a Signal K server! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/signalk-instrumentpanel-1024x619.png) You can also click on Webapps and then the @Signalk/Instrumentpanel. This will take you to one of the swiss army knives of Signal K – a configurable dashboard of gauges and data. I've spent many hours in here configuring dashboards I use on my phone, iPad, and computers for various uses. You can stop here if all you wanted was a real-time dashboard. If you want longer term stats, analysis, and other plugins, keep going. ## Common Signal K Plugins to Install Plugins are pieces of code written that extend the functionality of Signal K. They are easy to install, but require restarting the server whenever you install or upgrade one of them. In addition, almost all plugins require some sort of configuration. Once you've installed one (or more), and restarted the server, you'll need to go into Server -> Plugin Config and set any of the values you need to get things working. Usually the plugin maintainer page (the little “i” will link you to it) will help you with any details. Again, after changing these values, you'll need to restart the Signal K server. To install a plugin, click on the little download cloud on the far right hand side, and scroll back up to the top of the screen to see install status. You can also click on the little “i” on the left and learn more about it. Once you're done, don't forget to restart the server (upper right corner). ### signalk-derived-data ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/signalk-plugins-1024x525.png) The most important one to install is signalk-derived-data which generates other data from stuff being input into Signal K – examples include: Outside air density (based on humidity, temperature and pressure), Outside air dew point (based on humidity and temperature), tank volume, and much more. You can [read all about it at signalk-derived-data](https://github.com/SignalK/signalk-derived-data?ref=seabits.com#readme). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/derived-data-1024x979.png) Once you've installed it, there are bunch of configuration options. You can enable various items depending on what data you're missing – for instance, if you have wind speed and outdoor temperature, but nothing on your network produces wind chill temperature values, check the “Outside air wind chill” box and restart the Signal K server. You'll now have a calculated wind chill amount! Look through the data in here, and if you think you don't have it on your network, turn it on. This will allow you to log this information elsewhere and use it on dashboards. ### signalk-raspberry-pi-temperature I install this one to keep an eye on the temp of my Raspberry Pi. My network is pretty extensive, and I've seen it get very hot when it is overwhelmed. This shows up as another bit of data in Signal K and you can see it in the instrumentpanel as well. ### signalk-wilhelmsk-plugin I always install this one because it has a companion iPhone/iPad application that is absolutely amazing – the plugin is only required if you have an Apple Watch. It's written by one of the key Signal K developers and I highly recommend it as a way to see all of the data real-time from your boat on an iPhone or iPad. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/wilhelm-sk-1024x768.jpeg) You can find out more about the app at [WilhelmSK](https://www.wilhelmsk.com/?ref=seabits.com). ## Installing InfluxDB + Grafana One of the most popular reasons to set this hardware up is to get longer term dashboards and graphs. I covered some of the ones I use in [Engine and Power Dashboards](https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/). To do this I use InfluxDB to store the data, and Grafana to graph it. Teppo Kurki covers using docker to install this on the [plugin home page](https://github.com/tkurki/signalk-to-influxdb?ref=seabits.com), but I prefer to install the requisite software directly in the operating system on a “production” system to save on the overhead of docker, and because that's all this system is doing, and it makes it easier to manage (in my opinion) if it's installed this way. It does take a few steps, covered below. ### Install InfluxDB Influx is the time-series database that Signal K will be sending all of its data to. This is an efficient and easy way to store data, and will allow Grafana, the graphing piece, to connect and create your fancy graphs. Let's get started: Install the InfluxDB key and repository ``` wget -qO- https://repos.influxdata.com/influxdb.key | sudo apt-key add - echo "deb https://repos.influxdata.com/debian buster stable" | sudo tee /etc/apt/sources.list.d/influxdb.list ``` Note that the above command is for the most current release of Raspberry Pi's operating system, Raspbian, version 10 called “buster”. You may have to adapt the repository information if you're using a different version. Update your repository data, and install influx. ``` sudo apt-get update && sudo apt-get install influxdb ``` Start up InfluxDB ``` sudo service influxdb start ``` Now it's time to create the database we'll be storing your data in – I recommend using your boat name as the database name. Start the InfluxDB command line ``` influx ``` ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/influx-cli.png) You should connect to your InfluxDB server and see a prompt. If you don't, something isn't right with the database. Lets create your database and the user that Grafana will use to query it. ``` create database create user with password '' ``` To make sure the database and user are created, run the following commands ``` > show databases > show users ``` You should see something like this ``` > show databases name: databases name ---- _internal rendezvous > show users user admin ---- ----- rendezvous false > ``` Congrats! The database is installed. Let's point the Signal K plugin at it and see what happens. You can leave this influx command line running as we'll need it to verify the data is making it into the database. ### Setting up signalk-to-influxdb plugin ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/signalk-to-influxdb-1024x323.png) You'll want to install the signalk-to-influxdb plugin from the Signal K web interface under Appstore -> Available. Once installed, restart the Signal K server so it shows up in Plugin Configuration. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/signalk-to-influxdb-config-1024x562.png) Go to Server -> Plugin Config, and expand InfluxDb writer. Under the username, password, and database, use the data you set up in the steps above. Leave all of the other settings at their defaults, scroll down and hit Submit, and then restart the Signal K server again. To validate that data is flowing into Influx, head back to the SSH session you left open with the influx command line running. Switch to your boat database ``` use ``` Show measurements being recorded ``` show measurements ``` You should see a bunch of line items that represent the various data Signal K is sending across to the database, like this: ``` > use rendezvous Using database rendezvous > show measurements name: measurements name ---- electrical.ac.0.phase.A.current electrical.ac.0.phase.A.frequency electrical.ac.0.phase.A.lineNeutralVoltage electrical.ac.0.phase.A.realPower electrical.ac.0.total.realPower electrical.ac.1.phase.A.current electrical.ac.1.phase.A.frequency electrical.ac.1.phase.A.lineNeutralVoltage electrical.ac.1.phase.A.realPower electrical.ac.1.total.realPower electrical.batteries.0.capacity.stateOfCharge electrical.batteries.0.capacity.timeRemaining electrical.batteries.0.current electrical.batteries.0.voltage electrical.batteries.1.voltage electrical.switches.bank.0.1.order electrical.switches.bank.0.1.state electrical.switches.bank.0.10.order electrical.switches.bank.0.10.state electrical.switches.bank.0.11.order electrical.switches.bank.0.11.state electrical.switches.bank.0.12.order electrical.switches.bank.0.12.state electrical.switches.bank.0.2.order electrical.switches.bank.0.2.state electrical.switches.bank.0.3.order electrical.switches.bank.0.3.state electrical.switches.bank.0.4.order electrical.switches.bank.0.4.state electrical.switches.bank.0.5.order electrical.switches.bank.0.5.state electrical.switches.bank.0.6.order electrical.switches.bank.0.6.state electrical.switches.bank.0.7.order electrical.switches.bank.0.7.state electrical.switches.bank.0.8.order electrical.switches.bank.0.8.state electrical.switches.bank.0.9.order electrical.switches.bank.0.9.state environment.depth.belowSurface environment.depth.belowTransducer environment.depth.surfaceToTransducer environment.inside.engineRoom.temperature environment.inside.humidity environment.inside.temperature environment.outside.dewPointTemperature environment.outside.humidity environment.outside.pressure environment.outside.temperature environment.water.temperature environment.wind.angleApparent environment.wind.speedApparent navigation.attitude.pitch navigation.attitude.roll navigation.attitude.yaw navigation.courseOverGroundTrue navigation.datetime navigation.gnss.antennaAltitude navigation.gnss.geoidalSeparation navigation.gnss.horizontalDilution navigation.gnss.integrity navigation.gnss.methodQuality navigation.gnss.positionDilution navigation.gnss.satellites navigation.gnss.type navigation.headingTrue navigation.log navigation.magneticDeviation navigation.magneticVariation navigation.rateOfTurn navigation.speedOverGround navigation.speedThroughWater navigation.speedThroughWaterReferenceType navigation.trip.log tanks.freshWater.1.capacity tanks.freshWater.1.currentLevel tanks.fuel.0.capacity tanks.fuel.0.currentLevel ``` You may not have all of these items, but you should have some. If not, you have an issue with your database name, password, or configuration. If you have data, you've got the hard part done. Now we get to install Grafana and start graphing! You can now exit out of the influx shell by typing “exit”. ### Install Grafana To install Grafana you need to install a few things, including the repository information for the software. ``` wget -q -O - https://packages.grafana.com/gpg.key | sudo apt-key add - echo "deb https://packages.grafana.com/oss/deb stable main" | sudo tee -a /etc/apt/sources.list.d/grafana.list ``` Update the repos and install Grafana ``` sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get install -y grafana ``` Enable Grafana to automatically restart at boot ``` sudo /bin/systemctl enable grafana-server ``` Start up Grafana now ``` sudo /bin/systemctl start grafana-server ``` Grafana should be running – head over to a web browser and go to http://:3000, where the IP address is the address that you have been using to connect to your Raspberry Pi. Log in to Grafana with the default username admin, and the default password admin. Change the password for the admin user when asked. You've now got all of the software set up and running! ### Adding InfluxDB data source to Grafana In order for Grafana to be able to graph your boat data, you'll need to add a datasource that points to your InfluxDB database. In Grafana, go to Configuration -> Data Sources and click on “Add data source” ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/grafana-datasource-1024x431.png) Select InfluxDB as the data source type On the resulting screen, give it a useful name (I use my boat name, which is the same as the database name) and populate the URL field with http://localhost:8086, which is the address for your local InfluxDB server. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/grafana-datasource-1-1024x551.png) Scroll down a bit further and add your database name, username, and password, which we configured back in the InfluxDB section. Also choose your HTTP Method – I use POST. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/grafana-datasource-2-1024x384.png) Scroll down and choose “Save and Test” and make sure you get the green messages that things have succeeded. If they do not, you have the wrong database, URL, password, or Influx is not running. ## Create a Basic Dashboard To test things out, let's create a simple dashboard to see if data is updating. To do this, in Grafana, go to the plus sign in the left hand navigation (Create) and click Create Dashboard. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/create-grafana-dashboard-1024x532.png) Click Add New Panel ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/New-dashboard-add-panel-1024x426.png) There are a LOT of things on this screen – this can be overwhelming, but it is what gives Grafana the power to create just about any dashboard and represent the data in creative ways. The first thing we need to do is choose the database – you can see my boat name in the drop down on the left that I've circled. Second, I gave the panel a name – we're going to be searching for depth. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/add1-1024x675.png) Click on the “select measurement” field ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/add2-1-1005x1024.png) You should see a drop down list of the same data fields that you saw in Influx show up here. If you don't, you've selected the wrong database or have another issue. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/add3-1-1016x1024.png) Type in “depth” to filter just to those results. If you don't have depth on your network, try something else, or pick one of the first ones that come up. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/add4-1-1020x1024.png) Choose one of the resulting items – I chose depth.belowTransducer ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/add5-1024x1012.png) You should see data show up on the graph at the far right – it might be very little data depending on how long your Influx database has been running. If you don't see data, you have either chosen a metric that has no data, or you have some other issue. Try another one until you see something. When you're done, click Apply in the upper right. You should be taken back to the main dashboard page. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/dashboard1-1024x644.png) You can zoom in further with the controls in the upper right, and save your dashboard with the disk/save icon. Keep in mind this is a basic graph – data from NMEA 2000 is often in standard formats that might not make a lot of sense and need to be converted when you create a graph. The one above is in meters, which is fine for those of us who like that. An example of a graph that you would need to work on more would be temperature – they are almost always in Kelvin, which is …. useless to the average human. To convert it, you need to use a math() function within Grafana like below ``` math(* 9/5 -459.67) ``` That's a subject for another article. Some of it you can see in [Engine and Power Dashboards](https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/) or [Real-time weather from the boat](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/). ## What have I done? You have the following: - A simple operating system that keeps itself updated - No extra window manager or other junk to waste data and eat CPU - Reliable, low power hardware - Signal K server installed with key plugins - A CAN-bus/NMEA 2000 interface configured and running to feed data to Signal K - A time-series database logging lots of good NMEA 2000 data - A graphical dashboard system that you can build on ## What's Next? - **Build more graphs** – my [Engine and Power Dashboards](https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/) graphs are available to download at the end of the article. Some of the graphs will require customization because the names of my data points may be different than yours, and your database name will also be different. Explore other metrics in your database and see what they look like on a graph. You don't have to use normal bar or line graphs either – there are icons, gauges, and many other things to explore. - **Explore Signal K plugins** – go into the Signal K server and look at App Store -> Available and explore the huge list of other things Signal K can interface with. Fusion stereos, autopilots, Windy weather station, and more! - **Explore Signal K Webapps** – some of the plugins are actually full apps, like InstrumentPanel. There also insanely configurable frameworks like NodeRed, which allow you to write conditional rules – i.e. if Signal K detects your boat has left the slip based on GPS location, and the bilge pump switch is not on yet, to turn on an alarm or send an email notifying you of the condition. The possibilities are endless! ## Advanced Topics Some things people ask about that are more advanced: - **Cloud / remote access** – this applies to both Signal K in general and Grafana in particular. Signal K has a cloud service that you can install via a plugin that will allow remote access, as well as anyone else. Keep in mind that you're letting a 3rd party have access to your boat data, and that it makes it all public, so bear that in mind for security purposes. For Grafana, some have looked at the Grafana cloud service. If your boat network has a public IP address, and you're willing to poke a hole in your firewall, this might work. If you're using a cellular connection, in almost all countries they do not allow this – there are tons of devices and firewalls between your connection and the outside world. You can use a proxy service, which is similar to the Signal K model. The most secure solution is a VPN, where you either have the Pi connect to a remote service that you can connect to with your remote device. [Remotely accessing boat systemsAccessing your boat remotely is a common desire. Most people can access their home remotely, so it seems like it should be just as easy for your boat. But there are some limitations with the types of…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/multi-vpn-stuff.png)](https://seabits.com/remotely-accessing-boat-systems/) - **Notifications** – see below under Other Things to Consider – you can setup email notifications, but also folks have asked about Signal K notifications, Grafana notifications, etc. Each of those have their own pros/cons and multiple options. Signal K has at least 3 plugins that do notifications through Amazon services, IFTTT, and more. Grafana has various threshold notifications that can also use various services. It really depends on what you want ## Keeping Things Updated Operating system updates should be automatic, to a point. You can login every so often and update software using apt, but you shouldn't have to for critical security updates. You can adjust these settings more so that other software is updated automatically as well. Signal K and the plugins will need to be updated from within Signal K itself. ## Other Things to Consider Here are some additional things you may wish to consider. Most of these are basic things you can do with any computer running Linux, and can be found by googling the basic gist of what is recommended. I don't document them here since some are advanced, and the steps change. - Static IP address or DHCP reservation – the default configuration is for your Pi to request an IP address from your router, and that could change if you turn it off for a while or something else happens, like you reboot your router. You can set up a DHCP reservation on your router (if it supports it) or go through the process of giving it a static IP address. - Local email – by default no email can be sent from your Pi since it doesn't have an email server installed that the Internet will allow you to randomly send from. This is due to spam and other protection policies in place. I always like having an email server so I get alerts about bad things happening on the system, software updates, or use it for other alerting purposes. I recommend postfix as an email server, and Mailgun as the delivery point. Steps for setting this up can be found many places online. ## Wrap Up I hope you found this useful. I am sure some of the steps will be outdated the moment I publish this, so please let me know in the comments. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Dirk [January 30, 2021 at 1:04 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-778) Very timely for me, and easy to follow. A couple things I observed during my installation: \* command “switch” in influx db didn’t work, “use” worked \* Grafana port changed to 3001, since 3000 was taken by signalk - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 30, 2021 at 1:08 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-779) Thanks Dirk! I’ll change the “switch” command to “use” – that’s definitely an error. You should be able to choose port 80 for Signal K which would mean you could use port 3000 for Grafana. Mike Harrington [January 31, 2021 at 6:52 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-806) Great article! Timely for me as well. I started the setup on the boat. Installed tailscale (for remote access) and then headed home and finished it up. Pretty much everything worked the first time. The only hiccup (and it was \*very\* small) was during the Grafana setup. Grafana greys in “https://localhost:8086” but if you don’t type it in, it’s not really there. I’m interested in your future article on remote access. Tailscale was so easy. I’ve fought with VPNs for so long I was incredibly surprised to have remote access work the first time with almost no config across four OS’s and multiple ISPs. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 31, 2021 at 10:45 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-813) Glad the article helped! There are a lot of solutions for remote access including VPNs, both traditional and Tailscale-like, as well as proxies, cloud servers, and more. Tailscale is easy because of the low barrier to setup and architecture, but some may prefer the older-style VPN for different security reasons. I’ll be covering as many as I can, but there are always new ones out there that are making it easier and simpler – you just have to judge cost vs. ease of use vs. security. Tailscale and another similar solution were already on the list! - Mike Harrington [February 1, 2021 at 7:41 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-821) So true. I would also add in “ease of maintenance”. Bit-rot, OS upgrades, and similar things vary between the remote access solutions. I have a lower tolerance for software maintenance time on the boat… [BoatGuyBill](http://boatguybill.com/?ref=seabits.com) [February 7, 2021 at 8:18 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-1014) Steve – I have a Yacht Devices YDEN-02 aboard. Doesn’t this preclude my need for a nmea hat on any Pi I might install, so long as it’s connected to my network? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 7, 2021 at 9:57 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-1017) Bill – would depend on what you’re doing, but the YDEN could be used with a Pi to gather data directly into Signal K. Signal K supports various Yacht Devices devices (?) and their data streams so you could have the Signal K stuff running on a Pi consuming data that the YDEN is sending out. The PICAN board would be more “native” and probably more reliable in the long run, but you wouldn’t have to get one if you wanted to leverage your YDEN. sunnycoastgreg [February 22, 2021 at 3:53 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-1753) steve, it might be worthwhile to some additional commentary about the influxdb plugin settings – in regards to the “batch write” & “resolution” parameters .. (although in the standard influxdb setup, the retention policy is short (or maybe zero?) so writing at the plugin default of 600ms will not create a db file size of any consequence.. Frank [April 14, 2021 at 7:20 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3494) Hi, my Pi was running perfectly fine … until a few days ago. CPU load and RAM on influxdb went crazy and the average load through the roof. I didn’t change anything, just installed some updates, Pi and SignalK. But i’m not even sure it’s related. Any idea where to start debugging? I disabled the influx writer plugin in SignalK, but made no difference. Anybody else having similar issues? Thanks! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:38 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3622) Sorry for not responding sooner – a bunch of comments got flagged as spam accidentally! I’ve seen things get busy when a new input is added that logs at very high frequencies. You could reduce that if you think it’s related. I assume you’ve used top/htop and other tools to narrow down which process is going crazy? [Ray](http://www.svsabado.com/?ref=seabits.com) [May 2, 2021 at 8:33 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3509) Are you able to have audible alarms for things like battery voltage from a speaker connected to the server? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:19 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3615) It looks like there is a plugin for SignalK that produces audio alarms over a speaker: [https://github.com/meri-imperiumi/signalk-audio-notifications#readme](https://github.com/meri-imperiumi/signalk-audio-notifications?ref=seabits.com#readme) You could probably setup alerts using one of the many methods, and have it use the speaker to notify you. Scott C [May 2, 2021 at 4:21 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3511) Steve et al, Any experience with the RaspPi and SK having SD corruption or even ”hardening’ against SD corruption? I’ve used Pis on and off for a variety of projects, but inevitably, I corrupt them from a power outage or similar. Googling gets you a lot of noise and signal on the topic, was curious what the SK/database experience was out there. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 12:56 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3613) I’ve had a lot of RPi and haven’t had too much corruption, but I do tend to run them for long periods without shutting them down. There are newer SD cards that seem to do better, and if you are doing something massively disk-intensive, moving that to an external USB drive or something similar is probably a good idea. There is a newer setup I’m investigating that has a supercapacitor involved that gracefully shuts the RPi down when power is lost. Beyond that, something that writes tons of data to it might be the next most likely issue. - Scott C [July 17, 2021 at 1:36 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3620) I’m assuming you’re referring to this board/hat? I’m eyeing one as well. [https://hatlabs.fi/product/sh-rpi/?v=7516fd43adaa](https://hatlabs.fi/product/sh-rpi/?v=7516fd43adaa&ref=seabits.com) - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:46 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3626) Yup, that’s it. I have one with all of the options and am playing with it now. Adam Hyde [May 9, 2021 at 11:27 pm](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3527) Steve, Thank you so much for writing this up (and other related articles), great guide to using the Pican-M with Signal K. I rushed out and bought one, have set it up on a Pi-4 along with Grafana, Influx and Node-Red. This is just an amazing combination. For simplicity I stuck an old iPhone with sim card in my boat to connect the Pi via wifi to the Internet. Installed Tailscale for the VPN, easy remote access via VNC. Been playing around with Node-red as a boat monitor and it works great. I am using the Pushover node in Node Red to send messages to my Iphone lock screen. I highly recommend Pushover and its various alert priorities as a way to receive push notifications instead of text messages which might be missed. The biggest challenge in all this is figuring out the math conversions of the obscure units that Signal K uses and which aren’t documented anywhere that I can find… e.g. propulsion.port.fuel.economy ! sunnycoastgreg [June 19, 2021 at 5:04 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3555) steve, some time ago (2yrs?) i followed a setup to get influxdb and grafana installed, however i cant find yr ealier post. when i try to update grafana using the above “apt method” .. it tells me its installed v 8.0.3 ok… however my installation of grafana “as used” by signalk is stuck on V7.4. (which has a huge known bug) Q: there seems to be two different versions running on my pi/signalk installation. i vaguely recall that yr earlier install method used a different way to install grafana? no matter what i do it seems to always use the v7.4 .. any clues on how to get rid of this? older version ? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 15, 2021 at 10:50 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3589) It would really depend on the version of linux you’re using and the distribution options as well as the package manager. It could be if you installed grafana standalone and not through the package manager, or did something where a dependency is being enforced so that version is the one being used, etc. That’s more of an operating system/package manager issue it sounds like. [Ray](http://www.svsabado.com/?ref=seabits.com) [June 30, 2021 at 3:13 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3565) I followed this to install on a NUC running Ubuntu 20 and it’s all working pretty well. Three issue I’m seeing is that a couple of the gauges will show “No Data” every once in a while. If I wait for a few seconds for the Grafana dashboard to refresh is I manually refresh, if comes back. It repeats this throughout the day. Have you seen anything like this? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 3, 2021 at 9:08 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3568) It might be based on the data that is flowing into Grafana/Influx and how frequently that data is being updated. If you have the refresh rate set really high on the dashboard you have, it could be that in the last X amount of time there is no new updated value for that object. That’s the only thing I can think of off the top of my head. JP Henderson [August 2, 2021 at 3:19 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3666) Good Monday morning Steve. Firstly, thanks for the great articles on boat related electronics and projects. We own a Selene trawler and I am in the process of ‘fleshing out’ a new N2K system and related monitors. A few months back, I followed your article on setting up an rpi with signalk, influxdb and graphana with great success. All ran well until I dorked up the system by removing power during an update and lost everything. I am now restoring the system but am running into a problem with infuxdb and I am hoping that you might have some insite. Influx install ok but the service will not start. After the command ‘sudo service influxdb start’, the response I get is ‘Job for influxdb.service failed because the control process exited with error code. See “systemctl status influxdb.service” and “journalctl -xe” for details.’ The infuxdb version is 1.8.7-1. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated to get my system back up. Thanks and take care. JP Henderson [August 2, 2021 at 3:56 am](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/#comment-3667) An update after some more research. It appears that several users are having this issue after upgrading to 1.8.7-1. Using: sudo chmod +x /usr/lib/influxdb/scripts/influxd-systemd-start.sh fixes the issue (bug?). Thanks again --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 28 comments Tyler DeWitt@Tyler\_DeWitt March 12, 2022 Thanks for the great article! I’ve got everything hooked up, but I notice on restart that can0 isn’t coming up properly. I used `journalctl -u socketcan-interface.service -b` to take a look, and this is the error I’m getting ``` Mar 12 13:34:12 raspberrypi systemd[1]: Starting SocketCAN interface can0 with a baudrate of 250000... Mar 12 13:34:12 raspberrypi ip[436]: Cannot find device "can0" Mar 12 13:34:12 raspberrypi systemd[1]: socketcan-interface.service: Main process exited, code=exited, status=1/FAILURE Mar 12 13:34:12 raspberrypi systemd[1]: socketcan-interface.service: Failed with result 'exit-code'. Mar 12 13:34:12 raspberrypi systemd[1]: Failed to start SocketCAN interface can0 with a baudrate of 250000. ``` Any idea what is going on there? It’s been a lot of fun playing around with the data. Thanks for the step by step instructions of getting it set up! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 March 12, 2022 Hmmm seems like the interface isn’t there at boot up, or maybe at the particular time it is being started/searched for. Can you manually start things afterwards, or does it just not work at all after boot up? I’m guessing this might be an ordering thing… Tyler DeWitt@Tyler\_DeWitt↩ #4 March 12, 2022 I can manually start up the interface with `sudo /sbin/ip link set can0 up type can bitrate 250000` and then the data starts flowing in. I tried manually running the commands contained in the `.services` file, but got errors like “device or port already in use”. I found some instructions on the board’s site that said to add ``` auto can0 iface can0 inet manual pre-up /sbin/ip link set can0 type can bitrate 250000 up /sbin/ifconfig can0 up down /sbin/ifconfig can0 down ``` to `/etc/network/interfaces`, and that seems to work nicely. I’ve just gotten home, so I’ll remove the `/etc/network/interfaces` changes and go back to the services approach and see if I can reproduce the error. It’s been a long time since I’ve mucked around with linux. What info would be useful for you to have? Tyler DeWitt@Tyler\_DeWitt↩ #5 March 12, 2022 Instead of copy and pasting, I tried manually typing the file contents (in case a weird white space character was appearing). I also only included the first line - ``` ExecStart=/sbin/ip link set can0 type can bitrate 250000 ; /sbin/ifconfig can0 up ``` That worked on first reboot, but has failed on every subsequent reboot. If I run ``` sudo systemctl start socketcan-interface.service ``` the socket starts up just fine. I think you are right that there is an ordering issue. I’m just not sure where to start looking. Godind@godind March 14, 2022 Love the article. Just ordered a PICAN-M board! I also suggest you have a look at Signal K’s KIP plugin. Probably the most useable dashboard and it works with most if not all browsers. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 March 14, 2022 Tyler\_DeWitt: > I think you are right that there is an ordering issue. I’m just not sure where to start looking. Very odd. Definitely seems like an ordering issue. What version of the base operating system are you using? I’m wondering if something changed there that could have caused this. godind: > I also suggest you have a look at Signal K’s KIP plugin KIP is great and I’ve used it for a long time. A good dashboard if you want something lightweight that is basically quick to install directly into Signal K and doesn’t require other software. Tyler DeWitt@Tyler\_DeWitt March 20, 2022 Sorry Steve, I missed this message. ``` pi@raspberrypi:~ $ cat /etc/os-release PRETTY_NAME="Raspbian GNU/Linux 11 (bullseye)" NAME="Raspbian GNU/Linux" VERSION_ID="11" VERSION="11 (bullseye)" VERSION_CODENAME=bullseye ID=raspbian ID_LIKE=debian HOME_URL="http://www.raspbian.org/" SUPPORT_URL="http://www.raspbian.org/RaspbianForums" BUG_REPORT_URL="http://www.raspbian.org/RaspbianBugs" ``` bkcorwin@bkcorwin April 08, 2022 hello, I was curious if you could offer advice on connecting my pi running signalk as configured in your article, to an ikommunicate device on the same network. My Pi running signalk is 192.168.10.13 and my ikommunicate gateway is at 192.168.10.22\. I can log into both devices but they wont connect. I added a “data connection” with, websockets and 192.168.10.22 and port 80, but i get no deltas coming in Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 April 11, 2022 I’m not sure why it wouldn’t work, but it could be that the older version of SignalK on the iKommunicate isn’t sending the right data. I am not sure if they have kept up with the newer versions of SignalK - might be worth checking on the versions and with Digital Yachts. bkcorwin@bkcorwin April 11, 2022 Yeah, i think that’s it. Probably my bad for buying the darn thing when the last firmware was 2018\. I just ordered a pican. Seems like a better solution anyway. Brian bkcorwin@bkcorwin April 18, 2022 So, the pican-m works exactly as it should. Easy peasy. Digital Yachts is basically incommunicado. I’ve emailed and reached out via instagram as an alternative. Silence. I dug out a connection deprecated error so I assume that ikommunicate no longer works with signalk. Firmware was last updated in 2018 so i guess that’s no surprise. I’m happy that my system works, but annoyed at wasting 300$ on a not viable device. Totally my bad, but you might want to add a note on your ikommunicate review that it seems to no longer be a supported device. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #13 April 18, 2022 Thanks for the note about the iKommunicate. When did you buy yours? I will definitely add a note to the article. bkcorwin@bkcorwin April 18, 2022 Bought it direct from [http://ikommunicate.com/](http://ikommunicate.com/?ref=seabits.com) in January. B Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #15 April 19, 2022 Thanks! I’ve posted a note at the top of the article so others don’t go down this route. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/8e2fdababc75e6d3c6d0d477f46b2807e5a82d60.png) [SeaBits – 6 Jul 16](https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/ "03:34AM - 06 July 2016") ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/a44494e7f3da14fccb50c8af269d712db7c5e629.jpeg) ### [iKommunicate unboxing and install](https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/) Digital Yachts iKommunicate is a great device to have on a networked boat to help unify everything, as well as provide a web and app portal to all of your instruments and data. Hopefully Digital Yachts will get back to you - they’re pretty responsive when I’ve communicated with them. Spencer Dillard@sdillard April 23, 2022 This guide has been super useful – thank you! As I’ve rebuilt my pi 3x now (trying various things out), it’s gotten a lot of use. But, an important note – grafana 8.5 does not currently work on a pi (see [Server start failure after 8.5.0 upgrade - #7 by ebouxirot - Installation - Grafana Labs Community Forums](https://community.grafana.com/t/server-start-failure-after-8-5-0-upgrade/64437/7?ref=seabits.com)) so instead of: `sudo apt-get install -y grafana` you need to do: `sudo apt-get install -y grafana=8.4.7` (it may be fixed by the time anyone reads this, so check the issue in github) bkcorwin@bkcorwin April 26, 2022 Unfortunately, it appears as though the ikommunicate will not be updated. After one of their engineers working on the ikommunicate left, they basically froze the product. So word is it will now basically sit as a stand alone gateway that you can connect to directly, but the device will not be able to communicate with a Pi running signalk now or in the foreseeable future. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #18 April 26, 2022 Ah that’s too bad, but at least you know now. Did they offer any sort of refund or anything around that? bkcorwin@bkcorwin April 27, 2022 They’ve been pleasant about the whole thing and have offered to swap me to a wifi one or ethernet one. I also asked if they’d open source the firmware. Would be an interesting way to not have a product die. Brian Anthony@Sentinel May 05, 2022 Hi Thank you for the instructions. Works immediately. I connected an I2C sensor at the PICAN M. How do I get this data on Signal K? Run over the can0? Thanks. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #21 May 11, 2022 Your question is likely a bit more advanced. I would look into Signal K documentation and perhaps join their Slack channel and investigate getting data into the system from your sensor. There are also a lot of plugins for Signal K that could address this already. Todd L@Todd\_L July 04, 2022 Steve, Thank you for the awesome instructions. Hitting two errors… Signal K and Pican-M are connected and sending data. I am trying to setup the DB and hit the following: 1. the first is during the apt-key add. I get Warning: apt-key is deprecated. Manage keyring files in trusted.gpg.d instead (see apt-key(8)). 2. I can’t find grafana sudo apt-get install -y grafana Reading package lists… Done Building dependency tree… Done Reading state information… Done E: Unable to locate package grafana Thanks Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #23 July 10, 2022 Todd\_L: > the first is during the apt-key add. I get Warning: apt-key is deprecated. Manage keyring files in trusted.gpg.d instead (see apt-key(8)). What version of operating system are you using? It sounds like you might have a newer version or that they’ve changed something. Todd\_L: > I can’t find grafana > sudo apt-get install -y grafana > Reading package lists… Done > Building dependency tree… Done > Reading state information… Done > E: Unable to locate package grafana I think this is related to #1 if you’re not able to add the repository and key for grafana, you can’t install it. Todd L@Todd\_L↩ #24 July 10, 2022 Steve, Thanks for getting back to me. I am running Debian Bullseye Lite (64 bit), which is the April 4th 2022 release. I was able install using the instructions located in the PiMyLifeup [link](https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-grafana/?ref=seabits.com) using gpg for Grfana and InfluxDB. I do now have InfluxDB and Grafana setup and working… Setting up a VPN to retrieve settings and build dashboards from home next! steveberl@steveberl↩ #8 October 08, 2023 Tyler\_DeWitt: > ``` > ExecStart=/sbin/ip link set can0 type can bitrate 250000 ; /sbin/ifconfig can0 up > > ``` Hi. Did anyone sort out this issue? I’m setting up a new system and having the same problem. On boot, the ExecStart command fails. But after things come up I can start the service and it works. Seems like there is a missing dependency someplace. Tyler DeWitt@Tyler\_DeWitt↩ #26 October 08, 2023 Hey Steve, It’s been a while since I played with it, but I think there was an update to the base operating system of the Pi operating system that caused this. I think I was able to get it working by following the instructions from here: [PiCAN-M with CAN-Bus Micro-C and RS422 Connector + 3A SMPS — SK Pang Electronics Ltd](https://www.skpang.co.uk/products/pican-m-with-can-bus-micro-c-and-rs422-connector-3a-smps?ref=seabits.com) ``` sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces ... auto can0 iface can0 inet manual pre-up /sbin/ip link set can0 type can bitrate 250000 up /sbin/ifconfig can0 up down /sbin/ifconfig can0 down ``` Let me know if that works! steveberl@steveberl October 08, 2023 Just tried it. It didn’t help. I did add a “sleep 5” to the socketcan-interface.service files ExecStart line and that seems to work. Wish I new what it needs to wait for. Gvido Bratina@falko1 October 24, 2023 Steve, first off many thanks for your inspiring work. I followed the protocol you describe in the article, and successfully got all the info from my Seatalk1/SeatalkNG instruments over to the raspberry pi4b with PICAN-M board, running signalK within OpenPlotter, and residing at the nav station (Bavaria 37 Cruiser). I have PICAN-M HAT powered from the SeaTalkNG. Only now I realised that having a separate power supply for the raspberry pi would be better. The tech support person from SK Pang electronics claims that powering raspberry pi via the USB is ok even if the NMEA2000 network is connected to the PICAN-M. I vaguely remember that someone here installed a NMEA2000 power insulator to preclude the voltage from the network onto PICAN-M. What do you think? Regards emperor.of.denmark@emperor.of.denmark↩ #19 August 15, 2025 Thank you for digging into this. I’ve considered reusing the ikumunicate which I bought while it was in kickstarter as an anchor. But it’s too lightweight even in that use case. Rest in peace. ### Fresh water system improvements URL: https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:05:06.000Z In the last couple of months, I've made some improvements to my fresh water system in a number of areas. It started with the toilet, and progressed into filtering, pumping, and the shower itself. ## Bidet A few years ago on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), the [crew's favorite upgrade was the electric Raritan push-button head](https://seabits.com/replacing-head-crews-favorite-upgrade/). Within the first few months of owning [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), I knew I wanted to replace the Vacu-flush units on board with the same Raritan setup for simplicity and maintenance reasons, and did that to both heads in late 2018. With the crazy toilet paper run earlier this year due to COVID, and because we have had one at home, I wanted to look into a bidet option on the boat. Not only does it require less toilet paper, but it is less waste in the tank overall, and just more comfortable in general. [The Boat Bidet - Nomadic Research LabsInstalling a boat bidet and macerating electric head - the BioBidet 1000 and Masterflush 8100, replacing old VacuFlush system.![](https://microship.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/cropped-tiny-biu-avatar-270x270.png)Nomadic Research LabsSteve![](https://microship.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/flir-bidet-seat-cropped.jpg)](https://microship.com/boat-bidet/?ref=seabits.com) My friend Steve Roberts installed a solution but had the advantage of a mostly full-sized toilet to install it on, which is not as easy to find with most marine models. I also have had excellent luck with Raritan toilets the last 8 years or so, and that weighed heavily in my decision. I think many of us, if not all of us, have had some horrible story related to the head, and choosing things you can rely on is very important to avoid additional stories! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Raritan-bidet-1024x598.jpeg) Raritan bidet water controls on the side of the toilet I was able to find a [model that Raritan makes with a bidet](https://www.raritaneng.com/en/shop/products/marine-elegance?ref=seabits.com), but it required a special order directly from the factory and some delays due to COVID. It has both hot and cold water inputs, and a control handle on the side to adjust it on the fly. The cold water is sourced from the same cold water input pipe for the rest of the toilet, which is easy to connect. The hot water is a small 1/8″ hose with a plastic NPT connector – something that was very difficult to find, and that I've never seen in the marine world. It required finding some adapters to get it to 1/4″ and then up to 1/2″ NPT to connect into my water system – slightly annoying. Besides the piping, the bidet itself is wonderful to have on board. I highly recommend if you are replacing a toilet to consider one. ## Fresh Water Pump I have had simple to complex water systems on all of the boats I've owned in the last 20 years. Some had expansion tanks and used fancy big old Groco or Jabsco brass pumps that will last forever, and more recently, I've tried 3 different manufacturers of “water system” pumps both with and without tanks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Groco-expansion-tank.jpeg) Expansion tank The most traditional setup is a water pump combined with an expansion tank. The tank is pressurized, and keeps the water at a specific pressure all throughout your system. This gets rid of weird pulsing or low pressure when you first turn on a tap, and prevents the pump from running constantly and wearing out faster. Water system pumps pair a slightly different pump that can be run at different speeds with an integrated pressure switch or electronics. They can also operate without an expansion tank in most cases, saving complexity and space. I tried brands like Johnson SPX and Shurflo and always had something with the electronics fail within a few months. Many of them were also extremely loud – in many cases louder than their non-electronically controlled counterparts – which was irritating. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Marco-mate-pump.jpeg) I had heard of pumps made my [Marco](https://www.marco.it/?ref=seabits.com), an Italian company, and in fact had owned several that were included in oil change pumps/systems made by Reverso. After some investigation and conversations with a couple of folks I knew who had them, including [Tom Tidyman on Alexandria](https://www.instagram.com/t3hats/?ref=seabits.com) who had wonderful things to say about his pump, I decided to [purchase the UP6/E model](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/marco-up6-e-water-pressure-pump/m164-622-15?ref=seabits.com). The benefits of the Marco pump over other similar models: - Better electronic control system - LED that displays colors to indicate status of pump & failure modes - Helical PTFE gears instead of a diaphragm - Nickel-plated brass body plus a stainless steel shaft The UP6/E is a 6.9 gallon per minute / 36 PSI pump. That is a bit bigger than the 5 gallon water system pumps I had been using prior to this time, and much larger than the 2.5 gallon per minute standard pump the boat came with, which failed within a month of buying Rendezvous. The PTFE gears have chamfered teeth to reduce sound and wear. To me, using gears seems like a lot more logical way to provide a variable level of pressure and flow. Other systems I tried used a standard pump with bladders or diaphragms that could be staged on and off in sections. The pump itself is built like a tank and weighs a ton. I like that – it means there is a lot of metal involved in the design which will likely last longer than the cheaper plastic models, and it just feels like a better made system. The electronic control system is much better than any of the other systems I've had. There's little to no lag or notice when opening a tap, it ramps up and down smoothly, and the LEDs are super convenient. They indicate a number of states with the pump and water supply to help troubleshoot issues: - Blue solid – pump is pumping and liquid is detected - Blue flash – pump is priming – will shut down after 5 attempts - Yellow solid – pressure is below desired amount, pump is attempting to reach it - Gren solid – pump has reached target pressure, liquid is still being demanded, but pump will not increase speed because demand is being met - Green flashing – pump has reached target pressure and there is no liquid demand, standby with motor off - Red solid / flashing slow – motor has been short circuited - Red flashing fast – pump overload There are a number of safeties and steps the pump goes through to prevent any damage or heat issues, all [outlined in the manual](https://items.marco.it/media//attach/booklet/UP6-E%5F00%5FUS.pdf?ref=seabits.com). There are a few more warnings that use both LEDs: - Red + Blue blinking alternatively mean the pump has run for 1.5 minutes without liquid and will shut down - Yellow + Blue blinking together indicate the power supply is providing the wrong voltage - Steady Red + Blinking Blue means the pump has run for more than 2 hours at very low speed and has been shut down to prevent heat damage. I think having this sort of info about the state of your pump is fantastic. While most of them shouldn't happen without you hearing or seeing something, such as no water (which should be obvious), some of the others might happen intermittently while you're asleep or away, and having the LEDs showing what happened could really help prevent long days of troubleshooting. There are two downsides to the Marco that I've found. First is the price, which is easily double than a similar sized pump from Johnson or Shurflo. But you definitely get what you pay for here – the pump is quieter, better pressure, and should last longer based on the design. One could argue that if you wanted the “gold standard” Groco Paragon pump, which is around $1500 for the junior model, or $3000+ for the senior, that the Marco price seems cheap in comparison. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Marco-mate-pump-connections.jpeg) The second challenge is the pump hose connection points. They include two 1/2″ NPT adapters (the silver one pictured above) that screw into the pump. There is an o-ring that seals it, but the thread depth is very short. I'm a big fan of simplifying things, and hate seeing adapters double and triple stacked on top of each other, even though they probably won't leak if properly installed. I would prefer to be able to screw in my own pipe connections to things like PEX or a hose barb instead of having to use their stainless steel connectors, and then something else on top of that. The depth of the connector on the pump is only deep enough to handle the provided adapters without damage or other challenges. But that is a minor complaint. I have been extremely happy with the pump for the last few months it has been in place. It is much quieter, I have far better flow, and it seems way better engineered and built which should translate into much longer life. You can listen to it while I test all three sinks, the shower, and a combination of those things above. ## Fresh Water Filtering The quality of drinking water aboard has always been a top priority on all of my boats. On the sailboats, that meant treating the tank regularly, using a filter on the hose filling the tank dockside, and then using a Brita pitcher aboard. With Rendezvous, I've been experimenting with various filters directly after the pump and at the galley tap and have settled on a two part system that has been working very well. Even though I filter any water I put into the tank from a dock, and the rest I generate using my watermaker, I still feel filtering and processing the water results in a better tasting water. It might seem like overkill, but it's made a difference to both me and my husband in terms of stomach issues when aboard. ### Part 1 – Whole System Filtering The first part of the system is a set of filters right after the main water system pump and before water goes into anything else. I had tried a few different combinations of filters, but there were two problems I continued running into – gallons per minute limits, and not granular enough filters, which were both directly related. I could find 4GPM filters, but they really didn't filter out much, or I could find really good filters that filtered out just about everything, but would only flow a max of 1.5 GPM on a good day. For the sinks or icemaker, the lower GPM filter with more protection would work OK, but the shower would not be great, and trying to use more than one thing at a time would be impossible with that GPM. I finally found the [Pentair Big Blue](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L7JTYX1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=sailbits-20&linkId=75f28730f1418d8746e6aa625a5e1614&language=en%5FUS&ref%5F=as%5Fli%5Fss%5Ftl&ref=seabits.com) series of filter housings and two types of filters that could get me to my requirements. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Big-blue-filters-front.jpeg) Pentair Big Blue housings compared to standard housings The Big Blue filter housings are much larger than the standard filters I had been using before, and use 10″ tall and 4″ around filters instead of 10″ by 2″. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Big-blue-filter-top.jpeg) You can see how much larger around they are with this view from the top. They also have pressure relief valves for easy filter changes (the red button). The Big Blue housings also have much larger inlets and outlets available, up to 1 1/2″. I chose 3/4″ NPT since I already had those connections available. They also make clear versions of these housings, but not in 3/4″ NPT. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Big-blue-installed.jpeg) The bigger housings provide more space for bigger filters and more water, which means more GPM. That also allows me to use better filters that filter out more junk, yet still meet my GPM requirements. I used a 3/4″ union connector between the two filters to connect them, and various PEX ends on either side to connect to the pump and the rest of the water system. They are pretty beefy housings and weigh quite a bit, and the brackets are quite sturdy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Filters-compared.jpeg) I chose two different filters for my system. You can see them above compared to the smaller, more standard sized filters. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Filters-top.jpeg) Here's another view comparing the sizes. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Sediment-filter.jpeg) After a lot of research, I decided to use a sediment filter first and a carbon filter second. The first filter is a [Pentair DGD-2501](https://amzn.to/38QgYdu?ref=seabits.com) (part number [155359-43](https://www.pentair.com/en/products/residential-water-treatment/professional-series/dgd%5Fseries/sku/155359-43.html?ref=seabits.com)) which is polypropylene and is designed for a high flow rate of 10GPM. Poly filters are more resistant to bacteria than cellulose, and are pretty inexpensive. This filter is to get rid of the larger particles (if any) and much cheaper than the secondary one. I may end up switching to a different filter here – I shouldn't be seeing much sediment given that I filter the water coming into the tank either at the dock or from the watermaker, but this is how most home water systems are setup, and I decided to start with this filter. If anything, I might put another carbon filter here that is not as restrictive as the second one. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/FloPlus-10BB-filter.jpeg) The second one is a [FloPlus 10BB 0.5 micron](https://amzn.to/3ofvMsE?ref=seabits.com) higher capacity filter (part number 455905-43). These are quite a bit more expensive than the previous filters, but they have a much higher filtering quality with a fairly high flow rate. This is the filter that will really make a difference in protecting the water supply and removing tastes and odors. So far this filter combination has met my requirements where about 6 different others did not in terms of flow alone. I have no pressure or GPM issues running the shower, and I can actually use one other location while the shower is on, or multiple taps simultaneously. In addition, I can taste and smell (in the shower with hot water in particular) the difference in the water. ### Part 2 – UV Water Filter The second part of this system is something I've wanted to install since I saw the [Wynn's use it on their catamaran Curiosity](https://www.gonewiththewynns.com/product/water-purification?ref=seabits.com) a few years ago – UV-LED water filtering. I chose the [Acuva Eco NX-Silver UV-LED Water Purifier with Smart Faucet](https://acuvastore.com/products/eco-nx-with-smart-faucet?ref=seabits.com) which they just switched to as well after their boat sat during COVID restrictions. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Acuva-system-diagram-1.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Acuva-diagram-table.png) The system consists of a piping, valve, pre-filter, UV-LED unit, cables, flow restrictor and the counter top faucet. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Acuva-counter-top-faucet.jpeg) The installation was relatively easy since there was already a fuse block through a hole in the wall that the water system pump was on for power to the UV-LED unit. The plumbing part was all PEX piping, and since I had replaced that near the main pump and filter area, easy to tap into. The hardest part was the hole for the counter top faucet. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Acuva-faucet.jpeg) I really like the circular light around the base of the faucet that lets you know if things are working right. The only downside to this system is its flow rate – it's extremely slow, but I suspect that is due to the pre-filter and UV-LED process. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Acuva-installed-1024x768.jpeg) Acuva UV-LED unit under the sink My husband has had issues with the water aboard messing with his stomach for the last year or so, and that has completely gone away with this unit being on board. Whether it's the aggressive filter or the UV-LED or both, it has made a big difference in his comfort on board, and well worth the investment. ## Shower Mixer While all of the above improvements were nice, the single best improvement in the plumbing system this year was the addition of a thermostatic mixer for the shower. A thermostatic mixer is a device that takes both hot and cold water, and using a thermostat device inside of it, ensures the same temperature of water is coming out the other end as consistently as possible. Most modern home showers have these built in – behind the wall of the shower and attached to the handle. Many boats have a thermostatic mixer right at the hot water tank, but that is designed to ensure the hot water in your pipes never exceeds a specific temperature so that someone can't burn or scald themselves with just hot water alone. This is common in houses as well to be installed right at the hot water tank. So why couldn't you just use one central one? Well, you could, as long as you had pretty stable output, and set the temperature of the entire system, at the hot water tank, to be essentially what you want in the shower. If someone or something else comes on, then you're still manually adjusting things in the shower. That's sort of limiting. In bigger boats, and some more modern ones, you may actually have home-style shower fixtures, and in that case, already have a thermostatic mixer. For those of us with older or smaller boats, what I found might be more useful. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/16204_500.jpg) I found the [Scandvik Mini Compact Thermostatic Mixer](https://www.scandvik.com/index.cfm?method=products%5Fdetail&productID=76&ref=seabits.com), part number 16204 and I [special ordered it through Fisheries Supply](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/scandvik-mini-compact-thermostatic-mixers/16204?ref=seabits.com) in Seattle. It is not inexpensive, but I think it is 100% worth it if you keep reading…. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Mixer-face-on.jpeg) Scandvik also had a couple of documents they sent to me that were helpful: - [Measurement details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/16204-THERMOSTATIC-MIXER.pdf?ref=seabits.com) - [What's in the box](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/16204-In-The-Box.pdf?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Mixer-1.jpeg) This thing is really well made and weighs quite a bit. It has a temperature control dial on the right, and a flow dial on the left. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Mixer-back.jpeg) The back has two 1/2″ NPT threaded inlets for the water source. Unfortunately these weren't the same width (they were narrower) as my existing shower, so I had to do some repairs to close off one hole, and drill a new one. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Mixer-temp.jpeg) This unit is clearly made in Europe as it has temperatures in centigrade. The temp adjustment is really well thought out, and has a red push button that you can press to go beyond 38 C / 100 F, but I find that I rarely do that. Pushing the valve up against the hot water stop before you have to push the button has resulted in perfectly warm showers. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Mixer-installed.jpeg) Installation wasn't that complicated, other than making a new hole for the narrower spaced connections. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Mixer-installed-2.jpeg) The old hole I plugged temporarily until I can do a more elegant permanent repair. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/01/Grohe-shower-head.jpeg) One of the benefits of this unit is that it uses standard home fittings for the shower head. I picked a [nice unit from Grohe](https://amzn.to/3b2a4EU?ref=seabits.com) that fit in my existing holder, and has various different spray patterns which I will not likely use. My husband is used to me having 10 projects going on simultaneously, and changes and upgrades happening constantly. It is often very difficult to get feedback out of him on some part of something that I've changed. However, in the case of this change, it wasn't hard at all. In fact, he said this was probably the single best change I've made to any boat we've owned in a very long time. Being able to enjoy a shower aboard and not worry about futzing with the temperature, or worry about running out of water has made a big difference in his comfort. That sort of unsolicited response about a simple change like this is significant, and I agree with him as well. Prior to this unit, with the standard marine dual handle shower setup with shower head, you would get about 4 minutes of shower time, mostly because you had to futz with the temperature as the hot water ran out slowly. I have an 11 gallon hot water tank, so at about 3 gallons per minute, a 4 minute shower sounds about right. With the new thermostatic mixer and home shower head, I can get around 8 minutes of shower time if I run the output at about 1/2 the volume. That's double the shower time, and no hot/cold dance, messing with handles, etc. The unit delivers very consistent temperature water, and even if you mess with the output rate, or someone else turns water on, it only takes about a second or two for it to adjust. For someone who needs a shower and an espresso to start their day, this is music to my ears. The benefit of this system is that you don't have to mess with the water temperature, and you can run it at a lower GPM and get longer times without having to waste time adjusting things. I highly recommend if you value a good shower like I do, to look into some sort of thermostatic mixer for yours. All of these projects were designed to improve the quality of our fresh water system aboard. The better tasting and safer water, more comfortable bidet, and the amazing shower experience have added even more levels of comfort and safety aboard, and I'm glad I completed the projects. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Carol [January 30, 2021 at 4:43 am](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-769) Our pressure tank has bit the dust so this is timely for me. Any reason you didn’t use one in this upgrade? Flojet 2840 Series Booster System is currently installed, 40psi, 4.5gpm. Pump seems fine, so thinking of just replacing the tank for the moment. Will definitely go with the Big Blue filters as we are having a lot of water pressure problems with the current smaller one. We installed a Seagull filter in the galley and like that quite a bit. Very interesting choices here, and we are going with the Marine Elegance without the bidet feature. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 30, 2021 at 10:07 am](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-771) Hi Carol, I chose not to put a tank in after having one for a couple of years off and on depending on what I was testing or using. I like having the consistent pressure that the tank provided, but the Marco pump is pretty close to that, and without the extra space and hoses and connections. The Seagull is an excellent system – I considered that too but ultimately chose the Acuva. The bigger filters are definitely a must have for proper flow and GPM if you’re running everything through them. - Carol [February 6, 2021 at 5:51 am](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-926) Just pulled the trigger on the Marco pump. Also going to go with the Pentek filters. Eventually will add a Viqua 5gpm UV unit just after the filters. Thanks for the ideas. Wolfgang [February 7, 2021 at 3:28 am](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-1000) I completely agree with your findings on the Marco pump. I have the exact same pump since last summer, should have installed one long long before. No need anymore for a pressure tank, simplifying things that way. Next thing are water filters, I will take advantage of your sourcing. Thank you and keep up the good work. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 7, 2021 at 9:55 am](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-1016) Thanks for the kind words! I love my Marco pump and am very happy with the purchase. It seems like it will last a long time and provide very good service. [Jim Buchanan](http://wew.chutedr.com/?ref=seabits.com) [April 24, 2021 at 12:13 pm](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-3504) Having the Headhunter Xcaliber pump in our current and 3 previous boats it seems is about the same cost as Marko with many more management and safety features, including power draw options, and deadly silent. Also. I’ve found a whole boat UV system an absolute requirement to eliminate bacteria before it can take hold in a water heater anode and complete water system distribution system. Did you exclude these products as not sponsoring you? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:26 pm](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-3618) The Headhunter X-Caliber is at least double what the Marco costs in my research. I’ve found it for about $1600, while the Marco is around $700 for the size I have. I’ve worked on a few boats with Headhunter systems and they are definitely nice, but quite a bit more expensive. No one sponsors me, I buy these products myself. - [Donald Joyce](http://www.sailtrekker.com/?ref=seabits.com) [July 17, 2021 at 2:27 pm](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-3627) I have both a Marco pump and a Headhunter pump. For whatever reason, the Headhunter pump was unavailable when I bought the Marco pump. In the past I had difficulty finding parts for the Headhunter pump. Perhaps there was a gap in distribution. Somehow, I lucked out when a megayacht ripped one out and threw it in the dumpster. The motor windings were burned but all else was good. I don’t know why the windings were burned. Both pumps are quiet, are computer controlled, and appear well made. My Headhunter is used as a saltwater washdown pump and is working fine after 12 yrs. Hartley [May 8, 2021 at 5:32 pm](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-3524) Hi Steve, regarding the Marco pump, how exactly does it respond to a tank running dry? On Atsa, when a tank runs dry (generally when I’m in the shower), the pump starts pulling air. Changing tanks means the pump has to pull usually a large amount of air through before it will prime & pull water again. The tank tops are maybe 3′ below the pump. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 12:26 pm](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-3607) The pump actually will stop running if it has not detected liquid. From the manual: Red and blue LED that blink alternatively signal that the pump has run one and a half minute without liquid and the motor has been stopped for this reason. To reset this warning you have to reboot the circuit or press the Reset button on the control panel, if present. The Marco pumps have a bleed screw that you open when you run dry and makes priming pretty simple. [Donald Joyce](http://www.sailtrekker.com/?ref=seabits.com) [May 13, 2021 at 6:26 pm](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-3533) I installed a 10 GPM Marco pump on Cats Meow and love how quietly it runs. The only thing we don’t like is the pressure is pretty low compared to the pumps we’ve had in the past. I had to play with the fittings for a while to keep the suction side leak free under the partial vacuum of lifting water about 6 ft up from the tanks. Ended up using bonded sealing washers and “lock nuts” to compress the sealing washers instead of the adapters Marco provided. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 12:10 pm](https://seabits.com/fresh-water-system-improvements/#comment-3605) Good tips! I haven’t seen that on my setup, but I’m not lifting as much as you are. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 15 comments Hartley Gardner@Hartley December 10, 2021 Hi Again Steve, Following up from my query of last year - I understand the pump will run for 1:30 then shut down without water - that’s actually plenty of time for us to swap tanks, assuming it will suck air at about the same rate as our current wobble-type pump. I’ll be checking these out because I think our bladder tank is rusting out, and replacing it is becoming annoying On another note, we installed the smaller version of the water filter you put in - one filter, and the smaller 10" X 2" filters. I changed ours out twice this past summer, and they really do catch a lot of dust and debris. I’ve been using the cheap “carbon” filters, which have a thin layer of carbon granules over a paper/plastic element - what surprised me was how good they worked on some pretty heavily-chlorinated dock water we had to load this summer. I had tested it straight from the hose and though “yechh - but we don’t have a choice” - but when we switched to that tank, the taste was gone! I know there are better carbon-block filters - we have one in our “Dockwater filter” we bought for Mexico - but for this application, the cheap ones have worked great. Hartley Fishrgolfr@Fishrgolfr March 31, 2022 Just ordered Marco pump. I notice you put filters on pressure side of pump. Any reason they can’t be installed between tank and pump (suction side)? Much easier for maintenance for me. Also have expansion tank already rigged. Any reason not to use? Many thanks. Bruce Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 April 05, 2022 I’ve hardly ever seen a setup where the filters are before the pump. I think it must have to do with the way the pumps are built or recommended to be installed. I’ve used Marco pumps with and without expansion tanks, and as long as the pressure is in the same range or matched, you should have no issues, and likely get a longer life out of the pump with less noise. Fishrgolfr@Fishrgolfr↩ #5 April 05, 2022 Thanks Steve. You prompted me to look up on internet where I found about even reasoning to one way or the other. Since my tank level will always be higher than the pump level I’m going to try before pump. Much easier for me to change filters as required. I’m going to Install the clear big blue housings to easily check filter condition. My pump location on my 42 OA is outboard of the starboard engine and accessed through the salon seating. A real difficult task space for me to work in. I’ll let you know how it works. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 April 05, 2022 Ah I know that space very well, and it is not that easy to get to! Good luck! Marc Cooper@Marc\_Cooper October 23, 2022 Has anyone used the 55 psi Marco higher pressure pumps, rather than the 39 psi versions? What has been your experience? Also, where is best place to purchase a Marco pump? Thanks. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 October 25, 2022 Hi Marc, I talked with the folks at Marco as I saw several pumps that showed a 43.5 PSI level in some of their documentation. Here’s part of what I asked: *I noticed that the UP12/E and the UP14/E have a higher pressure? The datasheets show 43.5 PSI, but the website still shows 36.3.* Their reply: *I’m not sure which data sheets you are referring to, but the UP12/E and the UP14/E also have 36.3 pressure……the only thing that changes in the larger pumps would be the flow rates. There is not a way to bring the pressure on the pumps higher, the sensor is designed to keep the factors the same.* So I’m not sure which pumps you’re looking at with the higher PSI - maybe the wash down ones? I purchase mine from [Fisheries Supply](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/marco?ref=seabits.com) here in Seattle as they usually have all of the various options in stock and good prices. Marc Cooper@Marc\_Cooper↩ #9 October 25, 2022 There is a high pressure version (55 psi) of some of their pumps, including the UP14e. I talked to [mate-USA.com](http://mate-usa.com/?ref=seabits.com), which is the US distributor. They said the high pressure version is not stocked in the US, but can be specially ordered from Italy. Takes 2 to 3 weeks and $50 shipping. They were very helpful Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 October 25, 2022 Huh! Well I wish they would have mentioned that when I asked several times! That might have changed my choice of pumps since I really can’t make the system I need work with the current lower PSI models. Dave Brown@Dave\_Brown January 15, 2023 I really love these posts! I just changed my freshwater pump to a Marco pump this week, and it’s so much quieter than the Johnson spx variable. I have an accumulator, and I opted to leave it in place for now. I might add a pex valve and close it off from the system to see how it works by comparison. I also installed the whale gulley ic gray water pump with the drain piece and removed my sump box. Todays project is to replace the shower hardware as the mixer is failing. I’m not going to do a thermostatic as I don’t want to deal with fiberglass repair, but I got a Grohe rough in and valve. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 January 17, 2023 Thanks for the feedback! I love Marco pumps and still use them for a bunch of stuff even beyond water systems. So quiet and smooth sounding. I’m also working on shower changes aboard Kaos and trying to replace older dual handle units with a single thermostatic mixer that fits in the space. Grohe has always been one of my favorites for this, although quite expensive. Richie Trent@Richie\_Trent April 03, 2023 Hi Steve, Wondering about that Scandvik shower mixer. Can’t find any installation instructions online. How does it attach and seal to the shower wall? Is it easy to make the plumbing connections, or do you have to have access from the back side? Thanks! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 April 05, 2023 The online docs are pretty poor, I would agree. If you look at the pictures, I am holding it in one with the back facing the camera. It has two threaded inserts for both cold and hot input. They did not match any hole pattern that I know of in terms of distance, so I had to drill a new hole and then patch an existing hole, since the old fixture used a wider spacing. I think they may have also been bigger, but I can’t remember completely. That part, the size of the connections, I believe is in the specs online. There are some additional pictures showing how I sealed around the unit to prevent water getting behind it. You definitely have access from behind. Manuel Marinelli@Manuel\_Marinelli December 19, 2024 Hello everyone, as I just put in my MARCO UP12/E pump into an existing system, that also has an accumulator tank all works fine so far, BUT: The pump runs for a long time after the tap is closed. And I mean about 5 minutes on VERY low revs, so I was wondering if the accumulator tank might be the issue? But here I read you guys have tanks in the systems as well, so it really should not be the problem… so… any ideas anyone? Or rather: What pressure are your accumulator tanks set at? Perhaps ours is too low? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #16 December 19, 2024 It sounds like you added the pump brand new? The Marco wasn’t there before without the accumulator? Was the accumulator there before and with a different type of pump? What was the max or average PSI on that old pump? I’ve seen this happen when the pressure is mismatched, as you’re guessing. The general recommendation is to have the accumulator tank pressure at the same cutoff pressure as the pump. Sometimes you have to adjust that up or down a bit, but that’s a general good spot to start. ### Teltonika RUTX11 LTE router URL: https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:23:26.000Z If you're looking for a fast, inexpensive single LTE radio router with an excellent user interface, the Teltonika RUTX11 might be for you. In the last few years, there have been a lot of new, affordable LTE routers showing up in the market. Many of the manufacturers have had products in other markets such as IoT and manufacturing, which is the case with Teltonika. They have been around a [long time](https://teltonika-networks.com/about-us/who-we-are/?ref=seabits.com) and have a big background in IoT and manufacturing with products spanning modems, switches, routers, and gateways. A couple of readers mentioned a newer platform that Teltonika came out with called the [RUTX11](https://teltonika-networks.com/product/rutx11/?ref=seabits.com). It was hard to get initially, but I was able to get mine from a niche US wireless vendor. It appears it is [available on Amazon now](https://amzn.to/3r9AeLF?ref=seabits.com), and if you purchase it using the link above, it helps support my site. Since the release of the RUTX11, they have come out with the [RUTX12](https://teltonika-networks.com/product/rutx12/?ref=seabits.com) which is a dual LTE CAT6 version, and the [RUTXR1](https://teltonika-networks.com/product/rutxr1/?ref=seabits.com), a rack mount version with dual power supplies and a single LTE CAT6 radio. Unfortunately I could not find the RUTX12 easily in the US, but from what I can tell, the only difference is two LTE modems. The biggest challenge with these products is the CAT6 modem which is almost 6 years old. While they are still good modems, they don't support all of the new bands and features of the more prevalent CAT12 or even the newer CAT18 modems. The newer band support is probably the biggest advantage they have, as providers like T-Mobile and AT&T leverage them for longer reaching signal and more coverage in areas that didn't have it before. However, they will work reasonably well in most situations. ## Specifications Some high level specifications are below. A detailed list is available in [Teltonika's datasheet.](https://teltonika-networks.com/downloads/en/rutx11/RUTX11-Datasheet.pdf?ref=seabits.com) ### Hardware - Single LTE category 6 radio - Supported bands: B2, B4, B5, B7, B12, B13, B25, B26, B29, B30, B66 - Dual SIM slots - Dual band 2.4Ghz / 5Ghz WiFi - 1x Ethernet WAN port - 3x Ethernet LAN ports - USB port for file sharing - 9-50 volts DC power supported ### Software - OpenWRT-based software - Very nice web interface - Lots of VPN choices - Management and monitoring options – lots of them! - Other protocols like MODBUS, MQTT and more - Remote management via Teltonika's cloud solution (RMS) ## Unboxing and Setup ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/_RUTX11-box.jpeg) RUTX11 box contents The box includes the router itself, a wall wart power supply with funky connector, 2 WiFi antennas, 2 LTE antennas, 1 GPS antenna and 1 Bluetooth antenna. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/_RUTX11-front-close-sun.jpeg) Front of RUTX11 The front of the router has a lot of lights for everything from the SIM card status to the LTE level (nice!) and more. There's also 4 ethernet ports, 3 LAN and 1 WAN, plus SIM slots and an actual included SIM card remover built right in. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/_RUTX11-angled-SIM-remover.jpeg) SIM card slot opener included! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/_RUTX11-antenna-connectors.jpeg) Back of the router The back has antenna connectors for 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz WiFi (frequency not labeled), primary and secondary mobile antennas, GPS, USB, and Bluetooth. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/_RUTX11-back-lots-antennas.jpeg) Router all antenna'd up For a small router, there are quite a few antennas all in a compact area. I like the size and quality of the LTE antennas – they are 3-4″ longer than most I see with routers. The GPS antenna is on a nice long lead, as is the Bluetooth one. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/_RUTX11-front-LEDs.jpeg) RUTX11 LEDs The LEDs on the RUTX11 are very nice and bright, and give you a clear indication not only of what is on, but signal levels, LTE type, and more. I did not use the Bluetooth radio for anything, although it appears you can query data from the devices that are connected to it using [UBUS command line tools](https://wiki.teltonika-networks.com/view/How%5Fto%5Fuse%5FUBUS%5Fcommands%5Ffor%5FBluetooth%5Fdevice%5Fscanning%5F/%5Fpairing?ref=seabits.com). I suspect this could be useful in an IoT situation where you have temperature or environmental sensors that the RUTX11 is connected to, and you can query them and take some sort of action. ## Software & Documentation Teltonika have one of the best user interfaces and documentation setups I've seen in a while. Peplink is one of the best out there, but there are parts of Teltonika that I prefer, especially their [wiki based documentation on the RUTX11](https://wiki.teltonika-networks.com/view/RUTX11?ref=seabits.com). They keep it updated as things change, and it's searchable and very well written, complete with [detailed configuration examples](https://wiki.teltonika-networks.com/view/RUTX11%5FConfiguration%5FExamples?ref=seabits.com) and more. The software itself appears to be based on OpenWRT, which is an open source router software. They've added their own web interface which is quite a bit beyond the [GL.iNet Amarok I reviewed](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/) earlier this year. The RUTX11 is far easier to use with more functionality. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Dashboard2.png) Dashboard screen The web interface is very well laid out and extremely fast. In fact, booting up the router is amazingly fast even compared to more expensive models from other vendors, which is very nice. The dashboard contains a ton of information on all of the different parts of the router, and you can reorganize it to your liking, which is a nice touch. There is a Basic and Advanced mode in the interface, and I kept it focused on the Basic mode for most of this article. Turning on Advanced mode gives you even more menu options and details on the individual screens as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/status-mobile-network-1.png) There are a bunch of good status screens where you can delve into more detailed information, including the one above for mobile network. Here you can see I am connected to Band 4 with an OK signal and I can even restart the modem if I want. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/status-network-wireless.png) Wireless Network Status The wireless status screen also shows a bunch of useful info on the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz radios, as well as clients that are connected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Popout.png) Popout display There's even a nice little popout display that shows everything in a compact dashboard that you can leave on the side of your screen. Overall there are lots of detailed status screens – both the high level dashboard and the detailed drill downs – to find out what's going on very quickly. ### Network Settings ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/networking.png) The network portion of the product is very configurable. Not only are there sections for the mobile and WiFi side, but you have a full firewall, VLANs, routing, and failover options. *Note that some of these screen shots were taken with a previous firmware version that does not show some of the newer features that were released in the menu on the left hand side.* ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/network-interfaces.png) The one area I found a little confusing is the network interfaces screen. This is where some of the OpenWRT underpinnings leaks through, I believe, in particular with the names of the interfaces. For instance, WAN and WAN6 threw me for a moment until I saw that WAN6 is using dhcpv6, which is only used for IPv6\. If that doesn't mean anything to you, then don't worry about it – it's a newer form of addressing. Nevertheless, it is confusing to have two WAN interfaces, as well as the weirdly named mobile interfaces below that. The biggest challenge I had with the Teltonika was here – with the WAN port. I wanted to connect it to my existing on board network via ethernet using the WAN port, and it took a while to figure out how to edit it to start it up on boot, get it to grab an IP address, etc. This seems to have improved in later firmware versions, but could trip an average user up. Thankfully their documentation is excellent. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/network-interface-settings.png) Each interface has different settings depending on the type of interface – mobile ones are different than WAN, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/mobile-general.png) SIM settings You can control lots of different aspects of the LTE, WAN and WiFi networks. For the LTE side, you can configure the two SIM slots differently depending on the providers, data roaming, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/sim-switch.png) SIM switching I really, really like the SIM switching settings. These are dials you can adjust to choose when to change from one SIM slot to the other. Not only can you switch when one is disconnected, but on a weak signal, data limits, and even network denials and such. Even Peplink doesn't have some of these choices, although they come close. Even with a single radio, this set of settings alone make it a real viable solution for someone wanting nearly always on LTE connections, as the failover between SIM cards is more easily adjustable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/failover.png) Interface failover Beyond SIM switching, you can also configure failover on all of the various connections you are using – WAN (wired/WiFi), LTE, etc. The only issue I have with this feature is that it is buried in a Network area, rather than being part of the general configuration, and shown more prominently on the Dashboard. Peplink has gotten this part of their interface right over years of iteration – a clear dashboard with connections, draggable into priorities and failover order. Nevertheless, it is nice to see it here – few routers this size and price have this feature. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/wireless-overview.png) The 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz WiFi radios can be configured independently and have all of the usual settings you would expect in a modern WiFi access point. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/scan-wireless-WAN-join.png) You can also use either of the wireless radios to connect to a remote WiFi network, similar to WiFi as WAN on Peplink products. It's a little more difficult to configure this, and the network interfaces are a bit more confusing, but it is possible to use it this way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/firewall.png) The RUTX11 also has a good firewall included which allows for granular control. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/device-modems-layout.png) Modem location display There's even a helpful display showing where the modem and SIM card slots are. I would imagine on a dual radio or more complex product, this could be a bit more useful. You can also connect an external modem or hotspot to the USB port, although I did not have the chance to test this. ### Realtime Graphs! You might know from all of the [Grafana dashboards](https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/) and other things I've done that I love a good graph. Teltonika has some of the best I've ever seen for things like cellular signal, traffic, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/realtime-mobile-signal.png) Real time mobile signal strength I wish everyone had this graph, because it would make my testing so much easier and more effective. Having real-time graphs of the signal level while you adjust antennas, or swing around at anchor, is super helpful when tuning things or troubleshooting a problem. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/realtime-wireless-signal.png) Real time wireless signal The same real-time graph exists for the wireless side of things, which is also very useful for troubleshooting. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/realtime-traffic-lte.png) Real time data usage on LTE And of course, there is an excellent real-time data graph for LTE. In addition to these, there are graphs for system load and connections through the router. ### Services ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/services-2.png) There are a ton of services in this product spanning a wide range of features. If you're interested in a Swiss army knife of features, the RUTX11 has a bunch of them. I'm only going to delve into a few that I found interesting. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/services-auto-reboot.png) Auto-reboot is a slick little feature that will allow you to check connectivity of something remote using ping, or even wget, which grabs a webpage, and if it fails a certain amount of times, reboot the router. The one I like even more is the periodic or scheduled reboot, which would be good to do once a week or day just because routers will always perform better after a good reboot every so often. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/services-events-reporting.png) You can send messages for a wide range of events via SMS and other means. There are a bunch of variables you can set, and you can customize the message. This would be very useful to be notified if your LTE connection is unreliable, WAN goes down, and other scenarios when away from the boat, especially if you rely on the system for remote monitoring. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/services-gps.png) The RUTX11 has a really good GPS tool set that allows you to setup various aspects, and it can spit out GPS data on the local network so other devices can consume it. You can see even more details in the [GPS documentation online](https://wiki.teltonika-networks.com/view/RUTX11%5FGPS?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/services-gps-geofence.png) GPS geofencing There's even a setup for geofencing, which would allow you to set a particular GPS point and radius, and then get alerts if your boat moved out of that circle. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/services-input-output.png) The power connector also has an input and output connection on it so you could monitor an external system, or trigger something outside as well. This could be used to watch for a bilge pump turning on, or trigger an alarm horn in the case of an alert. You can even build a schedule to turn on/off things based on the time of day, day of week, and more. Again, every little detail is [covered in their excellent online documentation](https://wiki.teltonika-networks.com/view/RUTX11%5FInput/Output?ref=seabits.com), and you can even nerd out with using curl to control the whole product remotely or through automation if you want. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/services-mobile-utilities.png) There's even an SMS / text message set of tools. The most interesting one is the ability for you to send pre-formatted text messages to the router and get status as well as control the router remotely. This could be useful when away from the boat and wanting to check on the amount of data your LTE connection has used, or if things are wonky, to send a reboot message to the router. There are some security pieces in place to protect an average person from taking advantage of this, but it does have some risk. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/services-vpn.png) Last, and definitely not least, there is a full fledged set of VPN servers on this router – from OpenVPN (my favorite) to DMVPN, you can setup a ton of different options and pieces from the interface. I'm sure there's even more details you can do via the command line. This would really allow a lot of flexibility in being able to have your router connected to a VPN at home or in the cloud so you can remotely connect into the boat securely to check on things. ### System ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Firmware-upgrade.png) There are a bunch of bits in System as well that are useful. Teltonika have an online software server to deliver firmware, and use a good signing process to protect updates. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/system-profiles.png) In addition to the rest of the usual features like admin passwords, upgrades, backups and such, there is a feature that allows you to save the current running configuration into a profile, and switch between them quickly. A very nice feature. Beyond this huge list of software features there are even more that I didn't cover. In addition, if you are a command line person like me, you can flip into the OpenWRT command line via SSH and other means and configure everything that way, plus even more options. For the price and size, this router has a ton of features and configuration possibilities. I'd say it has more features and services than Peplink and Cradlepoint for sure, and that could make it attractive for folks looking for those particular features or automation. It does struggle a bit in some of the basics, inasmuch as it makes them a bit more difficult to configure. ## Remote Management System Teltonika have a [Remote Management System](https://rms.teltonika-networks.com/?ref=seabits.com) (RMS) that you can use to manage and monitor your router(s) with. A decent amount of the features are free, and some require credits and payment for more advanced items. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/rms-device-list.png) The system requires you configure your router to connect to the RMS, which means that it will be sending data to their servers. They do protect it from other people seeing it, but you should consider whether you trust a particular company to have this level of access to your router. There are features that allow you to connect back to your router, and to devices inside your network if you set it up. However, it is useful to manage things remotely when you are not on the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/rms-device1.png) You can delve into an individual device and see relatively frequent updates on connectivity, IP addresses, which WAN device is being used, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/rms-device2.png) You can also look at longer term metrics and configure different graph items. Beyond the device screens, you can use the RMS product to set global WiFi and hotspot settings and push those out to multiple routers, sync files to groups of routers, and much more. There's even RMS Connect which will allow you to connect to machines on your local network, if you're so inclined. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/rms-remote-web.png) One of the most useful features of the RMS is the ability to connect remotely to your router. This is handy in case you need to check on connectivity or make a change without being on board. Teltonika uses an OK method of doing this, by generating a URL that you can have expire by a certain time, and then proxies that to the router through the connection it has to the RMS. You still need to login using your username and password. The RMS is a useful tool to keep an eye on things if you need that. If you have multiple Teltonika products, I could see how managing them would be easier this way. For security purposes, it might be easier to use a VPN from the RUTX11 to a home server or cloud location if you're concerned about it, and have direct access all the time. ## Performance and Testing I've been very impressed with the overall performance of the RUTX11\. I've had no crashes or lockups, and I have had very consistent performance the last few months I've used the product. I've tested a lot of OpenWRT routers, including the [GL-X1200 Amarok](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/) router earlier this year, and this has been one of the best performing and more reliable one I've seen in a while. The biggest limiting factor in LTE performance is the category 6 modem, which isn't going to perform as well as more modern modems. Even LAN and WAN devices seemed to perform very well with the RUTX11, and I had no major issues. I tested the RUTX11 in both the metro-Seattle area as well as the San Juan Islands and other fairly remote areas around Puget Sound. I used both the default provided antennas, and I also connected the LTE ports to my Poynting OMNI-series antennas mounted outside on an arch. The RUTX11 performed better, of course, with the outdoor antennas, but it did well, if not slightly better than the similar CAT6 Peplink given the large indoor antennas. I used both indoor and outdoor WiFi antennas to test WiFi as WAN or remote WiFi signal boosting, and had a decent set of results. I tested this at Cap Sante Marina in Anacortes, as well as out and about in anchorages where I know there are local WiFi networks to connect to. I wasn't as impressed with the RUTX11's performance here. It was hard to configure WiFi as WAN (or client AP mode as it's called) and it had difficulty keeping a connection where a similar Peplink or MikroTik product had no issues. For local WiFi, i.e. the signal the RUTX11 broadcasts on the boat for your local network, I had no issues with either 2.4 or 5Ghz. Both performed well, and the various devices I used to connect to it worked without issue. This includes a ton of different things including Windows PCs, MacBooks, TVs, strange marine hardware, and Android devices, to name a few. I found the signal broadcast from the RUTX11 to be as strong or stronger than many other products tested. Overall, I found nothing overly concerning with performance other than remote WiFi performance, and that may not be a use case for many people with this product. ## Conclusion ### Pros - Beautiful and functional web interface - Feature packed - Well designed and built hardware with clear LEDs and status - Relatively inexpensive compared to other products ### Cons - CAT6 modem - Slightly hard to configure WAN interface - Some OpenWRT stuff leaks through - WiFi repeater performance If you are in the market for a single radio LTE router with a lot of features, a great web interface, and other connectivity and options, the RUTX11 might be something to consider. You might have to poke around a bit more in the interface to get things done, and it doesn't have all of the redundancy and flexibility as more expensive options, but it is still good value for money. > [RUTX11 on Amazon](https://amzn.to/3rjFkVC?ref=seabits.com) ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in our new interactive forum attached to each article. Tom H [February 12, 2020 at 7:23 pm](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-173) Steve, Great site – I found you via Panbo and despite you turning to the dark side and buying a powerboat I’ve greatly enjoyed reading your stuff. I too have a tech background (but have a sailing boat). My solution to internet access onboard my boat, in Europe/UK, has been using a combination of a Teltonika product and a Ubiquity bullet. I’m just upgrading from an old RUT550 (that had started to overheat) to a new RUTX11\. Have you any experience with these? They are industrial kit with all that implies for both the UI and build (DIN rail mounting kits etc). The RUTX11 has dual sim slots for the LTE with MIMO, bluetooth, GPS, 2.4G and 5G wifi, as well as 4 cabled ports (one configurable asa WAN uplink). I have a masthead cellular antenna (20m up) and very heavy low loss coax (installed by a previous owner which it must be 20mm diameter) to the nav station where the RUT box lives. I suspect that the cable losses probably outweigh the benefits of the masthead antenna, but I do get quite good reception upto 4-5nm offshore. I then basically use the system as MiFi unit. The Bullet is only temporarily installed at present, but my plan is to find an elegant mount for it and leave it permanently hooked in via the WAN port of the RUTX11\. Do you know anyone who’s got a neat marine mount for the Bullet? I’m starting to wonder about getting someone to fabricate something… Jake Brownson [December 29, 2020 at 5:04 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-4) Thought you might find it interesting to know I just got a Starlink setup to play around w/ on my boat. I’ve tried it here at the dock in Anacortes. Works great here. Posting this via Starlink actually. Remains to be seen how it works underway or at anchor. - Kevin Summers [January 24, 2021 at 11:21 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-666) Having just finished installing a victron based solar system and inverter on my sailboat, my next boat project is “the internet”. I’d love to hear how that system performs underway and the power requirements. Part of my inspiration for using Victron equipment is this blog! I very much appreciate the reviews and technical details that Steve provides! Keep up the good work! - Mike Harrington [February 15, 2021 at 10:31 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-1361) Jake, How did it go? Everything I’ve read so far says the Starlink is locked down to a pretty tight geographical area. Starlink will change boating forever, much as the GPS did. \-mike - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 15, 2021 at 10:43 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-1362) I think several of his replies were lost when Disqus (previous comment system) flagged them as SPAM. I also replied to his comments too, and those are lost, but I am working on trying to restore them by hand…. I had tested a Starlink setup and found that it worked fine at the dock or in a place where the boat didn’t rotate or move. Jake had the same challenges at anchor from what I remember of his replies. Worked when static, but not very much at anchor, and almost zero underway. I’ve posted about this before elsewhere, but for Starlink to be a viable solution on a boat or moving platform, it’s going to take some additional development for a system that can track things. It’s different than the traditional satellite systems, which I won’t go into detail here, so there’s more work than just adapting an existing setup. The bigger challenge will be the ground stations, which has been covered elsewhere as well. They have a lot of those to build, and in serious offshore locations, they don’t work at all right now because of the way they do the downlink side of things. I think Starlink and similar satellite systems will definitely be an amazing solution for boats, but not for a couple of years yet. Federico [January 13, 2021 at 5:13 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-637) Hi Steve, nice review! Even though I think a router with higher CAT would be better. Victron on the Cerbo CX manual advices routers like the “H685 4G LTE from Proroute” or the “Industrial 4G router range from Pepwave”, I’ve read your reviews about the Pepwave routers and they seems to be great pieces (the best?), have you ever tried any “Proroute” router? I am located in Europe and I wonder if there is a brand that works better rather than in the US. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 23, 2021 at 12:51 pm](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-654) I agree that a router with higher category ratings would be nicer. I’ve not tried the Proroute routers. Hard to find much info on them though in my quick searches….. I’ve not heard of any issues with Peplink in Europe per-se, nor a specific European router that works better there and not in the US. [Martin Jarvis](http://gone-sailing.uk/?ref=seabits.com) [January 29, 2021 at 4:27 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-739) Hi, Thanks for posting this extensive review. I have tried a few GLInet travel routers in the search for a perfect boat router for my sail boat. The RUTX11 is top of ny list at the moment. Do you know what the mounting options are? I’d need to securely mount it to the boat. I didn’t know about Peplink or Proroute until reading the comments. The Proroute is interesting based on cost. I’m based in the UK, but plan to sail much further a field in the coming years. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 29, 2021 at 9:58 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-742) Hi Martin, If you check the Teltonika product page at [https://teltonika-networks.com/product/rutx11/](https://teltonika-networks.com/product/rutx11/?ref=seabits.com) you can see they have DIN rail mounts of varying sizes and types available, which would likely be one of the best ways to mount in a space constrained boat. It did not come with any mounting hardware that I remember, but adding a DIN rail mount seems pretty inexpensive. My general advice is that you get what you pay for with routers. I’ve seen many brands that are cheaper, but where the skimp is on the software. The hardware is usually very similar across the low and high end brands – maybe the higher costing ones have better optimization etc. – but the big gap is software. If you’re willing to deal with basic features and potentially manual operations to switch from one thing to another, the cheaper routers are OK. I personally prefer the more expensive ones like Teltonika and Peplink because they’ve spent more time on the software, making my time on the water less about messing with the router, and more about enjoying reliable internet while experiencing the journey! Bruce Dunigan [June 21, 2021 at 6:26 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-3557) I have the RUTX11\. I noticed you set up the 2.4G and 5G wireless interfaces using the same SSID. I created separate interfaces/SSIDs for each radio…WAN and WAN1\. Which way is better? Each interface is an AP and the dock antennas (2.4 & 5) are set as clients (default setting when you scan and connect). Frankly, I am disappointed with the throughput. The 5G dock antenna (OnSpot) may speedtest at 60mbps but the RUTX11 only tests at 30mbps using my MacBook as a client. I know very little about networking so I am unsure if it is normal for the RUTX11 or if there are settings I need to change. I also wonder if I should use the RUTX11 as a bridge for the dock wifi and if doing so will improve speeds. TIA. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 9, 2021 at 9:35 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-3578) Hi Bruce, Most modern routers have two antennas/radios for the 2.4 and 5Ghz frequencies, and the most common way to set them up is to have a single SSID for both. That way, your devices can roam between the two frequencies depending on how close or far away they are based on signal quality. 5Ghz doesn’t travel very far, while 2.4 does, but 2.4 is also very poor at crowded places since there are few channels for it to use. Having separate SSIDs can be useful to force things to particular bands, but if you are moving around (cell phone, laptop, etc.) it’s better to let them choose the band, or you’ll have to manually do it all the time. For things that are in fixed locations, it might be OK to have different ones if you know which band will perform better…. Most people just use a single SSID though. I’m not sure I understand what you mean when you say “Each interface is an AP and the dock antennas are set as clients” Are you using the functionality where you are connecting to a remote WiFi signal or marina WiFi? If that is the case, then you’re using the radios in the RUTX11 for two things at the same time – broadcasting the local SSID, and being a client to the outside WiFi to get your internet source. This will cut the performance AT LEAST in half of the radio that is doing both of those things, so it’s not surprising that you see that dip. If you want a better performing setup, adding a MikroTik Groove to the WAN port of the RUTX11, or just using one radio of the RUTX11 to get remote WiFi (2.4 usually) will help. - Bruce Dunigan [July 10, 2021 at 5:08 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-3581) Steve, you wrote: I’m not sure I understand what you mean when you say “Each interface is an AP and the dock antennas are set as clients” Are you using the functionality where you are connecting to a remote WiFi signal or marina WiFi? Yes! Teltonika recommends this configuration for connecting to outside wifi antennas and rebroadcasting into the boat. Re the SSIS splitting: I have tried SSID setup both ways…one SSID for both radios and individual SSIDs. Based on your advice, I will use one SSID. Re speed: I do indeed experience a drop in speed when using the Teltonika to grab the dock wifi and rebroadcast it to devices on the boat. I had a Glomex webboat which works the same way. In fact, the Glomex uses a Teltonika RUT950 router. Per your comments on Seabits, I replaced the stock RUTX11 antennas with a Peplink 221 which seems to help signal clarity and signal strength. You wrote: If you want a better performing setup, adding a MikroTik Groove to the WAN port of the RUTX11, or just using one radio of the RUTX11 to get remote WiFi (2.4 usually) will help. I will try your suggestion of using only one radio to connect to the dock wifi. I assume that doing so frees the other radio to run my onboard network. Yes? Re MikroTik: I will consider this option. However, I have the RUTX11/221 mounted inside a KVH dummy dome on my cabin roof (2013 Sabre 42SE). I had hoped not to have to mount additional antennas on my roof and I don’t think the Groove will fit inside the dome where I only have 15” vertical clearance (unless I can use a 90 degree connector for the antenna and lay the Groove on its side). Perhaps there is an even more compact solution. That said, I understand your recommendation…let the Groove grab the dock signal and feed it to the RUTX11. Many thanks or your reply and advice. I appreciate your efforts on Seabits as do many others!! Bruce Dunigan - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 29, 2021 at 10:03 pm](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-3660) Using one of the two WiFi radios in the Teltonika will definitely improve performance of grabbing the remote WiFi signal, but it could also mean that devices that are looking for that frequency inside or locally will not be able to find it. Are both radios using external WiFi antennas? - Bruce Dunigan [August 1, 2021 at 6:29 am](https://seabits.com/teltonika-rutx11-lte-router/#comment-3664) Steve, in my case, since the router is mounted externally, I opted to run an ethernet cable from the router into the helm deck. I connected it to my Apple TV and the speed is vastly improved. I may add a network switch to connect other devices. Many thanks for your input! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 2 comments OrcaCapn@OrcaCapn April 29, 2022 Hi Steve, We’ve been enjoying the RUTX11, which we bought some time ago based largely on your excellent review. I just came across an interesting antenna from Quspot that provides an integral IP67 housing for the RUTX11: [QuSpot for Teltonika RUTX11](https://quwireless.com/quspot-rutx11?ref=seabits.com). I wonder if you’ve had a look at this and if so, what your thoughts are. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 April 30, 2022 I saw it when they released it, and it looks great for a marine setup where the router and antennas are outside. However, I’m surprised at the low gain numbers. I haven’t tested it myself, but it still looks like an interesting setup! I have tested a Poynting antenna that is similar - the EPNT-01 ([EPNT-1 - Poynting Tech - Antenna Solutions, South Africa, USA & Europe](https://poynting.tech/antennas/epnt-1/?ref=seabits.com)) with a couple of different Peplink products and it works extremely well since everything is outside. ### T-Mobile 100GB internet data plan URL: https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:10:48.000Z Plan is available again! This plan has disappeared once or twice since this article was written, but is apparently available again. It appears that you have to visit a store or call someone over the phone to get the plan, and it is available as pre-paid in most cases, with some people reporting post-paid (existing T-Mobile account) being available too. The price has also changed from the original $50 a month to $55, which is still a fantastic deal. T-Mobile has been disappointing this year for a number of reasons, mainly their [big change to how they handled category 18 modems](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/), but also with their acquisition of Sprint and other bumps in the road. There is a [new plan that was just released](https://prepaid.t-mobile.com/prepaid-internet?ref=seabits.com) that redeems some of that disappointment, and could be an excellent choice for those boaters looking to get T-Mobile on a hotspot or router. ## T-Mobile Blocked CAT18 ![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png) In the summer of 2020, T-Mobile decided to block access from category 18 modem devices for anyone using an older T-Mobile ONE or similar tablet or hotspot plan. These plans were available as early as 2016 and had fantastic features – unlimited LTE data, international roaming for free with 5GB of data included, as well as a few other things. For me, the T-Mobile plan was excellent while cruising in the San Juan Islands given the investment in towers they had made in the last few years. The coverage and speeds were excellent. When cruising into Canada 🇨🇦 (when we could do that!), the roaming was even better, allowing me to stay connected and have full LTE data access for the 6-8 weeks I was up there. The change this summer blocked access for the newer category 18 modems made by Telit and found in products like the [Peplink MAX Transit CAT18](https://www.milltechmarine.com/Pepwave-MAX-Transit-Category-18-LTE-Router%5Fp%5F637.html?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com), [Peplink MAX HD1 Dome CAT18](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/), and Cradlepoint IBR1700\. It also turned people away from those products who were considering buying them to older technologies and also had them searching for data plans from other providers. ## The New Plan ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/tmobile-banner-1.png) The new plan they've announced is available as both a post-paid (i.e. contract) and [pre-paid Mobile Internet Plan](https://prepaid.t-mobile.com/plan-detail/mobile-internet?ref=seabits.com). I was not able to sign up for it using my existing T-Mobile account (post-paid) due to the age and type of my account. T-Mobile is prioritizing pre-paid accounts anyhow, so I am recommending that option for most people. Pre-paid has a big advantage in that if your router doesn't work with the plan, or if 6 months down the road something changes and it doesn't work for you, you simply stop paying, and there are no contractual obligations. If you have a family or group plan, this may still show up for you as an additional line you can add. Make sure you read the fine print to understand any limitations. Here are the highlights for the pre-paid option: - **Pre-paid** – no contracts, easy to sign up - **~~$50~~ now $55 / month for 100GB** – some fine print has said a voice line is required or you are charged $40 extra, but I wasn't for the two lines I purchased, and have not heard of anyone else seeing this – it would show up in checkout. - **5GB 4G LTE roaming in Canada/Mexico –** plus unlimited roaming (at 2G speeds) internationally - **Bring your own device** – works in hotspot and router devices like Peplink or Cradlepoint, or you can get a hotspot from them. No special setup required – just plug it in to your router/hotspot and go. - **Unlimited music streaming –** a nice feature – I stream almost all of my music **The existing or previous plans that T-Mobile offered were from $60-80/month and only allowed about 22GB of data. Some of those stopped at 22GB (which is what I was migrated to earlier this year) while others continue functioning at 3G speeds (mostly unusable) after that. To now be able to get 100GB for $50 is truly a fantastic deal!** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/monthly-amounts.png) The fine print also cites this: *Plus taxes and fees. On all T-Mobile plans, during congestion, heavy data users (>50GB/mo. for most plans) and customers choosing lower-prioritized plans may notice lower speeds than other customers. Video typically streams at DVD quality (480p).* The important points out of that bit: - If you go beyond 50GB/month, your connection could get super slow in time of congestion. That happens where a tower is busy which can be in rural areas just as much as in metro areas. Near my marina, when cruise ships docked, T-Mobile was essentially unusable if you were over your data allotment for the month. This restriction is not unlike similar restrictions on high monthly data or even “unlimited” plans from many other providers. - Video streams at 480P. I personally don't care, since I'm just happy I can watch Netflix and Hulu at anchor if the weather is bad. If you expect HD streaming on any LTE data plan, you're going to need to use VPNs or other things to get around the restrictions, and you're going to burn through your data very fast. I'd suggest using Plex or another local server solution instead. It's important to also note that these are data-only hotspot plans. They cannot be used in a phone or other device. Voice services won't work, and I wouldn't bother trying or testing it since it might send up a flag on T-Mobile's end. ## 5G Network This plan talks about access to [T-Mobile's new 5G network](https://www.t-mobile.com/5g?ref=seabits.com) which might get you excited for faster speeds and newer technology. I wouldn't get too excited…. The various G's that providers have used in the last few years – 3G, 4G, 4G LTE, and now 5G – have been confusing. They all stand for “generation” – so 5G is the 5th generation of the technology. LTE stands for [Long Term Evolution](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LTE%5F%28telecommunication%29?ref=seabits.com) and is the underlying standard that these all fit into in some way. The problem with 5G, and it was a similar problem with 4G, is that each provider is saying they have it, but it means completely different things, and it is changing frequently. 5G for Verizon generally means technology called mmWave which is super fast, but the radio waves can't penetrate walls or glass (!!) so it is limited to outdoor use in metro areas. It is also extremely short range compared to existing 4G or LTE signals. In all likelihood, mmWave will never be usable from a boat given it's short range, and that it would more likely be deployed in metro cities. 5G for T-Mobile means a bunch of new bands/frequencies that they are using in a sort of layered fashion, plus mmWave in the future. This included lower band (Band n71 / 600 mhz) stuff they rolled out early in 2020, and mid-band stuff (Band n41 / 2.5Ghz acquired from Sprint) that has been turned on in October 2020. You'll notice those bands have a little “n” in front of them, which stands for “new radio”. None of the normal providers such as Peplink or Cradlepoint have devices that support these bands yet. It will be a while. Tests with the newer 5G stuff on T-Mobile has shown about a 20% increase in speeds, so that's nice. However, if you're in this to try to increase your overall speeds, it's better to combine two SIMs/plans with features like SpeedFusion from Peplink than it is try to to shop for 5G plans and devices. Most people looking for 5G on boats should be focusing on the coverage and range that it provides, not speeds. Bottom line, don't expect faster speeds with this plan, and don't waste any time trying to track down 5G capable routers just yet. ## Signing Up You can find the plan [here](https://prepaid.t-mobile.com/plan-detail/mobile-internet?ref=seabits.com). Here are my tips for signing up for this plan, or **any** pre-paid plan: - Don't try to combine it with an existing T-Mobile account. It looks like there may be some benefits, but it seems like it is only offered to newer accounts? Not completely sure, but I would just sign up as a pre-paid customer separately. - Use a reliable credit card to pay for it. Pre-paid plans don't work like traditional post-paid, contract plans where you pay at the beginning of the month for the service you used last month. Pre-paid is a fixed price that gets charged at the beginning of the month and you need to have payment ready right at that time. Many people have lost amazing unlimited pre-paid plans because their card changed or couldn't be charged, and the provider usually will not try again – if the plan has been retired, and they can't charge you for it, it's gone forever. ## Testing ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/HD1-Dome.png) T-Mobile plan active on Peplink HD1 Dome I've tested this SIM in the following devices: - [Peplink MAX Transit CAT18](https://www.milltechmarine.com/Pepwave-MAX-Transit-Category-18-LTE-Router%5Fp%5F637.html?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com) - Peplink MAX Transit CAT12 - [Peplink MAX HD1 Dome CAT18](https://sbits.us/hd1cat18?ref=seabits.com) - [Amarok GL-X1200 with CAT6/CAT4 modems](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/) - [Teltonika RUTX11](https://amzn.to/37xBhxd?ref=seabits.com) The most important ones to me are the CAT18 devices, which T-Mobile blocked earlier this year. This plan solves that, and allows me to once again use T-Mobile as a decent provider around the Puget Sound area with their great coverage. In all of my testing, I was able to successfully connect to T-Mobile's network and had good data speeds. I have not reached the 100GB data limit yet, but I expect things to slow down when hitting that mark, or at 50GB in congested areas. Keep in mind that T-Mobile could change what devices could access this plan, and there would be little recourse. Your device could also not work depending on what it is, so choosing the pre-paid plan is a smart choice in case you need to cancel. If you have a device you've tested that works, please post in the comments below so we can update the article above. ## Conclusion If you need a good, cheap plan for a router or hotspot, and you don't already have an unlimited or high data allowance plan from T-Mobile, I would jump on this right away. Carriers often only offer these types of plans for a limited amount of time. 100GB a month is quite a bit, and especially for $50 pre-paid, and no contract is required. It's a massive improvement over the previous $80/month 22GB plans that they were offering. Not only is it a decent amount of data, but it is contract-free, fairly inexpensive, made for routers and hotspots, and gets you access to T-Mobile very easily. Highly recommend! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Never for Ever](http://neverforever.ca/?ref=seabits.com) [December 19, 2020 at 7:13 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-11) Jeez Steve, have you been holding back on your boat-based time machine? “In the summer of 2021, T-Mobile decided to…” Lol I wish Canada would catchup to the US’s approach to data packages Steve Mason [December 19, 2020 at 9:02 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-9) Great tip. thanks for the heads up. Looking for a new card for my PepLink. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [December 19, 2020 at 11:11 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-10) Let us know if you order it, and if it works, and in what hardware! Evan Sorrell [December 21, 2020 at 4:26 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-7) I went to a T-mobile store today, and the sales staff were unaware of the pre-paid option and told me no such plan was available. Since post-pay is also no contract, I went for it and got a sim card. I also ordered the Inseego Mifi M2000 from them at the 1/2 price promo to be shipped to me as it wasn’t in stock at the store. However when I got home I popped the sim card into a three or four year old 4G LTE Verizon Jet Pack I had, and boom, works fine after entering the T-Mobile APN. Works well enough that I decided to cancel the Inseego order as you have to keep the plan for 24 months to get the full 50% discount (they make you finance the whole purchase price 24 months @ 0% and credit you 1/2 of each month’s payment). The Jet Pack works fine in the USB port of my Pepwave Surf router so for now, I’ll set it high in the boat and see how it does. We’ll be out in the Sound for four or five days after Christmas so I can see how it works, but long term I’ll be looking at getting one of the devices you’ve been telling us about. mscientist [December 21, 2020 at 6:14 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-6) I went to the online link and went all the way through to the shopping cart, but then the website wouldn’t enable the Next button. Something about invalid line number. Obviously a website bug. You know you’d expect a provider of internet access would have this whole website thing figured out by now. I’ve had similar issues with AT&T in the past. [Ron Micjan](https://plus.google.com/102563555651773460455?ref=seabits.com) [December 23, 2020 at 12:44 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-5) Yay, finally got this stupid Disqust system to work. Anyway, Steve had some great advice he shared. Get the prepaid plan, don’t try and verify the MEID number with TMobile, don’t put this data plan on your family plan. I tried to get Verizon to set up an additional line data plan for my Pepwave Max Transit, by the time I was done, it took 2 months to sort out, over 5 hours on the phone with 5 different VZW people and tech support and lots of Tums. With Tmobile, I bought the sim card on the above suggested pre paid plan, and dropped it in the Max Transit, and boom, data at 16MB/sec. Joe Castro [January 3, 2021 at 5:19 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-1) T-mobile is at least very tricky here at bay area. My phone show “5G” but speed is very, very low. We talking here about a samsung S20 Ultra, 5G capable, the top of the top of Samsung. At the marina I can hotspot at decent speed some days. Netflix is able to reach me after 9 pm when everybody go to sleep. But I’m contemplate the possibility of install a 5G system at my sailboat for a while. Just waiting technology come more accesible on price - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 4, 2021 at 2:31 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-643) 5G is a very muddy term right now, as it can refer to some of the systems that already exist and are just new bands on the same technology as 4G, or some of the newer technology such as mmWave, which will have a lot of difficulties working with boats given the range they operate at. It could be that you are being rate limited as well given that the network is likely congested there. Some people have had good luck turning 5G off on phones and actually have gotten better speeds without it. There’s a whole series of articles about the new iPhone 12 versions and Verizon’s network, and turning 5G off results in huge boosts because the new infrastructure isn’t completely rolled out. chris [January 8, 2021 at 10:12 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-639) I had to use the web chat feature to order my new SIM online for this plan. I experienced the same wonky website issues as the others but my SIM should be here today. I’ll report back if it works with my Amarok. - chris [January 8, 2021 at 2:41 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-644) I installed it as a second SIM in the Amarok and it works flawlessly. I have the EC25-AF 4G US T-Mobile / EP06-A 4G US T-Mobile modems in my unit and finally figured out how load balancing works and my whole world has improved in the last 30 minutes. The marina WIFI has been horrible and I was trying to get it to fail over to LTE but all I needed to do was add the WAN and LTE modems to the same load balance group and BOOM! This T-Mobile setup is definitely faster than AT&T in Kemah, TX - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 9, 2021 at 6:01 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-648) Thanks for the report! I tested mine in the Amarok as well with the same modem and had great results. mscientist [January 8, 2021 at 12:51 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-638) Update: I’ve had the sim installed in the Inseego M2000 5G hotspot for about 3 weeks now. Here are some observations. It is indeed faster than my 4G hotspot on Verizon, but nowhere near the “promise of 5G”. I suspect, that just like the 4G rollout, these companies are running fast and loose with regard to the “5G” buzzword. I’m seeing around 32 GB DL speeds, fairly consistently which beats hell out of the 3 – 5 GB I was seeing on Verizon 4G. It bears mentioning that I am located in a fringe area, so you’re mileage may be different if you are a city-rat. The Inseego loses connection with the network 3 – 5 times per day, requiring me to reboot the device. Once I do so, it consistently comes back online. I don’t know if this is an issue with the device, with TMobile, or with the local tower. The data usage displayed on the Inseego, consistently shows \~2x what I see on the T-Mobile website. Again, I don’t know if this is related to the device itself, or T-Mobile. Overall I’m pleased with the setup but would be ecstatic if the intermittent loss of connection were to be resolved. - mscientist [February 2, 2021 at 11:08 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-850) update to the update. I moved the same over to my Verizon Jetpack and the intermittency problem went away, so that appears to be a problem with the Inseego. Interestingly, while the Inseego said 5G, and the Jetpack is only a 4G hotspot (and says so), I’m getting the same speed. This confirms my suspicion that T-Mobile’s “5G” isn’t really, at least on my local tower. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 3, 2021 at 8:10 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-854) Not sure if this is related, but the Inseego hotspot that I was testing a year or more ago, specifically for Verizon stuff, was very unstable. It took them almost 8 months before they had firmware that stopped it from locking up almost daily, and I was one of many hundreds of folks that reported it. It could be that is involved here too, who knows. And yes, 5G is not really 5G in almost all places – it’s just new frequencies on the same band structure and architecture that they’re labeling as 5G. There are legitimate new technologies (mmWave) and new bands with better architecture behind them, but they are in very metro areas, and only usable by very specific equipment. At least for boats, things like mmWave and some of the other 5G technologies aren’t going to matter – most of them are very short distance which won’t work on the water. Glad you have it working a bit better! Andrew [February 11, 2021 at 10:28 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-1217) Just curious if you’ve gone over the 100gb do they throttle at 2g speed? I just got mine but was thinking of adding a second sim just so I can be sure I’d get 200GB a month. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 11, 2021 at 10:32 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-1218) I thought I had gone through it earlier in January, but I don’t think I did. I have 2x of these myself just so I don’t run out 🙂 - Chris Holliday [March 4, 2021 at 10:17 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-2160) I went over this month. Shut it down to 0.01mbs. I’m trying out the Visible plan alongside this plan. Will advise how it works. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 4, 2021 at 10:23 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-2161) Thanks for the report, Chris. Not surprising that it slows down to a crawl once you pass 100GB! Terri [March 14, 2021 at 2:51 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-2559) 15 years in QA finally paid off. I figured out how to do this. As the similar post I kept getting blocked before checkout. I tried calling TMobile as a new customer and that was futile. Instead I tried putting just a sim in the shopping cart and then used the online assistant to add the data plan. I was very clear what I wanted probably to the point of being annoying. I got a great rep named Lorne who was able to complete the transaction and the sim will be here in 3 days. I took screenshots of our conversation. All in all I spent over 3 hours trying to figure this out. But it was from the luxury of my boat, not standing in some store during covid. Their website obviously has some issues if you start with the prepaid data plan so try that but don’t beat your head against the wall if it doesn’t work. Hoping I’m still happy in 3 days. Thanks for the great info and all the helpful comments from your readers. Carry on!! mscientist [March 14, 2021 at 4:41 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-2577) Isn’t it ironic, that those companies who specialize in internet access, seem to have problems setting up a functional web-site? ATT and Verizon are no better. Peter Goldstein [April 3, 2021 at 9:57 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-3355) I’ve spent countless hours on the phone w TMobile trying to get my peplink balance 20x to work. Finally this may be the answer? I did go to the TMobile store yesterday to get a new SIM card as a last ditch effort. Do you think it’s possible that they could just associate my new SIM w the new pre paid plan? Are we sure this will work w peplink? Love to hear your thoughts and thank you for the eye opening info Jeff Few [April 23, 2021 at 10:01 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-3502) Bad news, folks: T-Mobile and Metro discontinued this “introductory promotion” in March 2021\. Anyone who was lucky enough to sign up before then is grandfathered in, but otherwise their top tier is now 50GB @ $50/month. Brad Arrington [May 6, 2021 at 1:15 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-3522) T-Mobile has discontinued the 100gb for $50 plan. Their biggest plan is now 50gb for $50. Mark Bevins [May 29, 2021 at 6:27 am](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-3546) Looks like the 4g version of 100gig/month has gone away and has been replaced by a $65 5g version. Forcing you to buy their inseego router as no others exist Discovered this when I went to get a second Sim. mscientist [July 16, 2021 at 6:03 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-3601) and….It’s back. It is now available post-paid only and cannot be ordered online. You have to go into a store to get it. Hopefully the sales-person is aware of it. I wanted to get a second plan (still grandfathered for the prepaid version), because 200GB / month for $100 is still a great deal. Went into a local T-Mobile store and got my second plan/sim. If you need this plan or another one at this price, I suggest you jump on it soon, as it too is likely a limited time offer. mscientist [July 17, 2021 at 12:52 pm](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/#comment-3611) It looks like they’ve resurrected the 100GB / $50 plan as postpaid only. But you have to go into a store as it is not available online ### Vesper Cortex after a few months URL: https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:26:27.000Z The Vesper Cortex has been one of the most anticipated devices in the marine world for over a year. I've had one for a couple of months now, and have had the opportunity to use it daily while out cruising. This is a huge product, combining mini-chart plotter, VHF radio, AIS transponder, remote monitoring, and instrument display. I'm sure I missed a ton of things, and look forward to delving deeper into some of the features in the comments, and future articles. ## Cortex Overview [Vesper Cortex](https://www2.vespermarine.com/cortex?ref=seabits.com) is a next-generation combination of a number of different things: VHF radio, AIS transponder and receiver, along with remote monitoring. With these core features, you also get things like anchor watch, a plotter to see nearby targets, and a handheld controller that makes it all possible. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/RS48_V1-VHF-Flat.png) Cortex M1 hub and H1 handset – image courtesy of Vesper Vesper have a [good site available](https://www2.vespermarine.com/cortex?ref=seabits.com) with videos and descriptions of the product along with other details. The Cortex has won a number of awards from various boat shows and organizations, and seems to be getting lots of positive reviews and press. Panbo's Ben Ellison also did a deep dive on the M1 hub which you can find below. ![](https://panbo.com/content/images/2020/10/Vesper-M1-installed.jpg) ## The Hardware ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-box.jpeg) I ordered the [Cortex V1 bundle](https://www.milltechmarine.com/cortex-v1?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com) for $1849 which comes with a hub and wired handset. I ended up ordering the [H1P wireless handset](https://www.milltechmarine.com/cortex-h1p?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com) for $599 separately later on as it wasn't in stock for delivery. At first glance those prices can seem high, but if you do the math on the separate pieces, it helps a bit: - VHF radio – $500 – split the difference between a top end unit and mid-level unit. - Vesper XB-8000 Class B (not even Class B+) transponder – $750 - Remote monitoring device – $500 (conservative) Total: $1750 One could argue that a Class B+ transponder would be more, as would a more feature-packed AIS-enabled VHF radio. That also doesn't account for the benefits you get when combining them together. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-pieces-1.jpeg) Cortex manual, M1 hub and cabling Inside are the M1 hub with all of its cables and antennas. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-pieces-2.jpeg) M1 hub cabling and GPS mounting options As with any AIS transponder, you need a dedicated GPS antenna, and the Cortex has one with a bunch of different mounting options included. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-GPS.jpeg) GPS antenna The GPS antenna has a nice design with the threads and short connection cable so you don't have to twist things in weird ways when screwing it down to a threaded mount. I like that touch. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/RS46_M1-Hub-Flat.png) Vesper Cortex M1 hub – image courtesy of Vesper The hub is the brains of the entire operation, and is very compact. It has a set of very bright indicators on the front of the unit, enabling you to quickly see general status and if there are any issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/IMG_8647.jpeg) Cortex H1 Handset Box The handset itself comes in a separate box inside the bigger box. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-wired-handset.jpeg) Cortex H1 Handset and mounting bits The handset includes wiring and covers as well as a cradle to mount it in. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-Handset-1.jpeg) The handset is a really nice piece of engineering. I have small hands, and it fits in them like a nicely sized smartphone. It has some weight to it, and has a lot of rubber surfaces on the sides and bottom for protection and anti slide. There's a DSC button cover on the top, transmit button on the left side, and volume and power on the right side. The buttons on the front include a menu button, back, VHF, Call (DSC), VHF channel 16, and man overboard. In the center is a jog wheel that can be spun different directions for various functions, and a center button to select things. The speakers are on the back, and there are two of them angled away from the edges. It is obvious a lot of thought has gone into making this part of the product as easy to use as possible in all conditions. You have multiple ways to do things – from touching the screen to using the wheel to clicking a specific button. A very intelligent and multifunctional piece of hardware! > [Milltech Marine](https://www.milltechmarine.com/vesper-cortex?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-power.jpeg) Cable choices…. There were some odd things in the hardware that I wanted to point out. First was the power cable and speaker/hailer cable. They are identical in terms of the connector plug, and you could easily confuse them. I'm not sure if it could hurt something if you plugged the power into the speaker port, but I would have liked to have seen a unique connector for power so you couldn't do that. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-Handset-Power.jpeg) The connector for the wired handset was also a bit fiddly and the cable was really short. I would have liked to have seen at least a couple of feet of cable so that I didn't have to splice a foot onto it to reach power. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-Speaker.jpeg) The external speaker was also not easy to mount. There was no bracket to surface mount it, and instead a very large hole was required to mount it. I would have liked to have seen a bail or other less destructive way to mount it, similar to speakers available from just about every other VHF manufacturer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-Hub-Connections-1.jpeg) ## The Setup My Cortex is mounted in my flybridge and powered off of a dedicated circuit. The DC power wiring is very heavy, having been put in by Ocean Alexander years ago when the boat was built. I have the Cortex connected to an antenna (see below for a longer discussion on antennas) with high quality LMR-400 cable. The cable run is about 15′ and the antenna is high up on my arch above everything else on the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-Hub-Powered.jpeg) Temporary home while I was initially testing The GPS is mounted on the side of the flybridge and only a few feet from the transponder. I have the provided WiFi antenna installed, and I have used both no LTE antenna, and some from my various on-board testing. The Cortex is also connected to my NMEA 2000 network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-Handset.jpeg) The wired handset is only a couple of feet away sitting on my console in the flybridge. I drive most of the time from that position, so having the wired handset there makes sense. It gets its power from the same circuit as the Cortex Hub. I did not use the mounting bracket because I can't find a graceful way to install it where I can see the handset. This is a new challenge that you may have with this product. Traditional radios and such have very uninteresting microphones, and generally just have a little clip they slide into when not in use. The radio is somewhere else, much larger, and has its display and buttons oriented towards you. The Cortex handset is the entire interface, so finding a place for it may be something you have to consider if you are replacing an existing VHF. I found that the handset stayed put even in the worst weather or waves on my fiberglass flybridge “counter” near my throttle controls. It's made of fiberglass, and the Cortex handset seems to stick to it with the rubber backing and never moves. It also provides a surface for the sound to echo off of from the back speakers on the handset. ## WiFi choices The Cortex base unit has a dedicated WiFi antenna that is included, and unlike previous Vesper products (for now), it is an access point only. That means that you can't have it join an existing WiFi network on board. The original reasoning behind this as explained by Vesper was so that the connection between the handset(s) and the base were more reliable. Each handset connects to the base unit WiFi network and that is how the entire system works. > Vesper released a beta feature to allow the Cortex to connect to your local boat network which I have been testing. Hopefully this will help with the above. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Vesper-Cortex-Boat-WiFi-1.jpeg) Boat WiFi beta feature Having spent most of the last 15 years in the WiFi world, I appreciate having a dedicated network for the handsets so that someone watching a Netflix stream doesn't mess up my conversation with a converging ferry, but there are still some concerns here. First, Cortex have chosen a 2.4Ghz b/g radio for the base station and handsets. I have [discussed the issues with using 2.4Ghz WiFi in marinas](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) for a long time, and that discussion is still relevant here. I have seen issues when I am in my marina with lots of overlapping 2.4Ghz WiFi signals, and there's not really much that can be done to fix that. Yes, I know I won't be using the Cortex that much in the marina, but I've seen plenty of issues with 2.4Ghz elsewhere too…. ![](https://seabits.com/favicon.png) 2.4Ghz WiFi was initially released in 1999, so we definitely need to get away from that as a reliable way of connecting things. Many other vendors have tried wireless handsets with VHF radios, some of which I've had myself, and all have used 2.4Ghz. I think a dual band radio would have been a better choice – using 5Ghz when possible, and switching to 2.4Ghz if further away. For those considering the Cortex on a larger vessel, or one with a lot of interference, I would definitely get a wireless handset and try it first in the locations you expect to be using. I would not be surprised if there are challenges with distance, and perhaps that is something Vesper are hoping to address by supporting an existing WiFi network. ## Remote wireless handset I was not able to test the remote wireless handset (H1P) as they were not available for shipment at the time. I just got mine a couple of days ago, and will write an update if there is anything meaningful to say after a couple of weeks. However, the difference from the wired and wireless handset is only in the wire and charging base. The functionality and the way they connect is identical, so there is little to add with the second handset except performance and distance. ## Antenna sidebar There's an important sidebar that needs to be made around antennas. Most of us added a dedicated AIS antenna in the last few years when we put a transponder on board. That usually meant we had one or two VHF antennas specifically for radios, and a 3rd antenna for AIS (see [Upgrading VHF and AIS antennas](https://seabits.com/upgrading-vhf-and-ais-antennas/) to see what I did about a year ago that was similar). For sailboats, folks either added an AIS antenna on the arch or somewhere lower, and left their mast-mounted VHF alone, or added a splitter. Many purists, especially in the power boat world where real estate seems more plentiful for antennas, shied away from splitters because of the perceived loss that they add, or because of a failure point. I had a Vesper splitter on both of my previous sailboats and never had a failure or issue. In fact, it has been shown that Vesper's splitter actually amplifies the signal based on the design. So I think that argument is no longer that valid. With the Cortex, it appears that a new paradigm for antennas is likely going to be the norm. I started out testing with my normal AIS-tuned antenna, and while the transponder performed well, the VHF did not. That's an understatement – it was terrible at best, and compared to a standard VHF radio, had about 1/4 of the range. This would make sense since the antenna is tuned for the channels that AIS uses. It worked, but longer range radio transmissions from other boats were unreadable or simply never heard. I was able to test this with both an on board fixed mount VHF radio and handheld. Chaining a fixed-mount VHF off of the Cortex splitter resulted in bad performance as well, as you would expect. Switching to a VHF tuned antenna which had been used with my Standard Horizon GX2400 fixed-mount VHF radio resulted in good VHF performance with the Cortex, but not so good with the transponder side. After a number of discussions with various folks in the antenna and AIS world, in particular, [Doug Miller of Milltech Marine](https://www.milltechmarine.com/?ref=seabits.com), it seemed like the right thing to do was to use a middle-tuned, 159 Mhz antenna which should provide the best of both worlds. I ordered a [Morad 159mhz tuned antenna](https://www.milltechmarine.com/Morad-HD-VHF-Marine-Antenna--6dB-gain%5Fp%5F477.htmlhttps://www.milltechmarine.com/cortex-v1?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com) and installed it up on my arch in place of the AIS antenna I had there previously. It's also good to note that I went one step further – I **removed** the two other VHF antennas that I had which were connected to fixed mount VHF radios. Having too many VHF antennas too close to each other, even if they are separated, isn't going to perform as well as one single, high up antenna. This has also been proven by many others who have gone down this road. So, I ended up with a single 159mhz tuned VHF antenna that is connected directly to the Vesper Cortex. Off of the splitter port on the Cortex, I have a very short LMR-400 cable going to my Standard Horizon GX2400 fixed mount VHF radio that has two stations. I am keeping this radio connected to do some comparisons and as a backup just in case. Eventually, I would hope to only have the Vesper Cortex. Bottom line – if you have a good VHF antenna, you can connect the Vesper Cortex to it and have good VHF performance, and probably OK or so-so AIS performance. For the best overall performance with both VHF and AIS, you will need a 159 mhz tuned antenna. ## The Handset ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-handset-angled.jpeg) Vesper Cortex H1 wired handset The handset is where everything interesting happens, and as I mentioned above, it is a beautiful piece of engineering. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-handset-dark-1.jpeg) H1 night mode It even has a night mode that I prefer even during the day. The display has an ambient light sensor (which you can override if you like) which adjusts brightness. I've not had any issues in bright daylight with polarized sunglasses on, or in the dark of night. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-menu.jpeg) Main menu By pressing the upper left key below the display that looks like three lines, or the same symbol on the upper right of the screen, you get the menu. This allows you to choose one of the main functions. You can do this by clicking on one of the items on the screen or using the jog wheel below the screen and the central button in the middle of it. Giving folks the ability to choose which way they prefer (physical or screen) is excellent, and it means you can use it both with/without gloves, in the rain, and even with one hand if you can't reach the screen. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-configuration.jpeg) Cortex handset configuration screen Clicking on the wrench in the upper right corner of the menu will result in the main configuration menu. There are a bunch of settings in here, and I am not going to go through them all – if you're curious about something, let me know and I am happy to post more screen shots. Essentially, this is where you setup your boat info, units, wireless and NMEA 2000 connections, plus other config options for things like LTE and the like. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-transponder-status-1.jpeg) Transponder and GPS status The icons on the top of the screen show things like the VHF channel you're listening to, as well as items for GPS and transponder status, which show screens like the above. There is also the configuration for the WiFi network, which is important, as the handset uses this to connect to the Cortex hub base unit. ## VHF The VHF functionality in the Cortex is close to feature-parity of a standard VHF radio, plus there are things it has access to or can do that most VHF radios either cannot do, or have horrific UIs that you have to use. Here are my observations using the Cortex as my primary VHF radio for the last few months in the San Juan Islands and Seattle area: ### Pros - Very easy/fast to switch channels with the rotary wheel - Clear and detailed information on the channel in question - Easy dual watch capability - Super intuitive to use the screen – just like a smartphone - Tons of info on the screen – your call sign, GPS position, etc. which would be helpful in an emergency. - Easy to change presets – just select a new channel, click and hold on an existing slot, done - Multiple ways to do things – buttons vs touch, etc. - DSC is finally easy – but I still rarely use it - Favorite vessels! Screen shot and details further below ### Cons - No channel scanning – I thought I could get by with dual watch, but it is very limiting. On most trips, I listen to channel 16, a VTS channel for the location I am in, 13 for passing arrangements, and a cruising channel if I am with someone else. Vesper say this is on their roadmap, and I can't wait. - There is a delay of almost a full second, maybe two, compared to a standard VHF radio. I assume this is the latency added by WiFi and whatever processing is happening. It can be maddening if you have another radio on at the same time. - Squelch auto control is inadequate – you can only choose between three sensitivities, and I often miss parts of conversations as a result. - No intercom – Vesper also announced this is coming and on their roadmap - No hailer – I use mine to harass crew at the bow while anchoring, but more importantly, to fire off required fog signal noises when in fog. So if you can see that it is very close to being a full VHF, but not quite there yet. Channel scanning & intercom are on the roadmap to be delivered by Vesper, while hailer and squelch control are unknown at this time. ## AIS The Cortex is the first AIS Class B+ SOTDMA transponder from Vesper. We've been waiting for this for a while, as I did a [review of one of the first ones in 2017](https://seabits.com/amec-widelink-sotdma-ais/)! I have a number of different Class B+ SOTDMA transponders on board, and compare performance by running them for a few hours in the same place and capturing the amount of AIS targets each “sees” via a Linux machine onboard. The Vesper Cortex performs as well as the best units I've had on board, and that should be no surprise given Vesper's experience in this area. Class B+ is the newer-ish standard for recreational-class AIS transponders providing a more efficient way of sending out your boat data (SOTDMA) and at a higher power of 5 watts. This is especially important in congested areas with lots of AIS vessels, and has made a notable difference for me in the Seattle area while testing these type of transponders. You can learn more about SOTDMA and Class B+ in a great [article written by Ben Ellison on Panbo](https://panbo.com/sotdma-class-b-ais-the-new-middle-way/?ref=seabits.com). The hub itself has a lot of neat things built into it that are firsts for AIS transponders. It has it's own heading sensor which makes your AIS data more accurate if you don't happen to have it connected to NMEA 2000 and have an existing one, and it has really intelligent alarms and profiles. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/IMG_9939.jpeg) AIS alarms can be configured pretty easily, with three different criteria available. I usually turn them off when I'm in populated areas like marinas, otherwise they go crazy. It's worth noting that if you power cycle the base unit, this setting will go back to the default of alerting you for any dangerous AIS targets, which is probably a good choice. Changing these three different settings will allow you to dial in how frequently you want to be alerted depending on the speed of your boat, how busy it is around you, and the boats near you as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Vesper-Cortex-Alarm-Profiles.jpeg) Alarm profiles You can also setup three different alarm profiles, each with different criteria, which is very useful. Each can be tuned to be less or more sensitive depending on your preferences. I used the “On Watch” option for when the boat was at anchor, and had less sensitive settings. I found the alarm configurability to be the most flexible I've found in just about any product, including MFDs. The fact that you can quickly switch profiles is a differentiating feature for sure, and allows you to actually rely and use AIS alarms, rather than constantly silencing them and becoming numb to over-alarming situations, which I have had happen many times. I suspect there will be even better control over this in the future, and it makes for a very powerful feature in the product. ## Instruments and MOB ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-instruments.jpeg) Cortex instrument dashboard The Cortex has a screen in the menu dedicated to instruments. You'll need to have your unit connected to NMEA 2000 or 0183 in order for much useful data to show here. It's pretty limited in terms of what you can display compared to a 4″ marine display, but if you do not have a small marine display or chart plotter nearby, it is a handy way to display things like speed over ground, depth, wind speed, and the like. It also would be useful at night if you had the handset near your sleeping location. If you're worried about the wind, you can see the direction and speed quickly, as well as check on your anchor alarm. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-MOB.jpeg) Man overboard If you press the dedicated MOB button on the handset, it drops a GPS pin at that location, and switches the display to a constantly updating orientation to that point. It also displays the water temperature, which it has routinely said is 32F but is definitely not that cold! I anticipate this might be a NMEA 2000 bug on their end, since it is right everywhere else on various displays. This is a very well thought out implementation of a man overboard system that doesn't require lots of extra technology or pieces, and can be found very quickly as one would assume someone is near a radio at the helm at most times. ## Plotter, DSC, and awareness This is where things get interesting. The features and screens alone are all things we have seen in one incantation or another, but combine some things, and you've got a whole new product. The plotter screen isn't new – you can find this on the older Vesper products via the Vesper smartphone app, such as the venerable XB-8000 AIS transponder. Where it gets exciting is what you can do when you click or select a target, and how it interacts with AIS, DSC, and VHF. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/AIS-favorite-vessels.jpeg) Favorite vessels You can build a list of favorite vessels, either by entering their MMSI manually, or by clicking on them on the plotter and adding them. This is nice so you can see who might be approaching that you know, and so you can quickly make DSC calls. The boat icons on the right will usually show a little arrow if it detects them on AIS indicating the direction they are in relation to you. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Plotter-symbols.jpeg) Plotter screen showing multiple vessels The plotter screen above shows multiple vessels, and you can see one is shown as a tug with the two white circles. This isn't unlike the older plotter screens where you could see info. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Plotter-WSF-Yakima.jpeg) Clicking on one of the vessels shows the name, in this case, the [Washington State Ferry Yakima](https://www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/vesselwatch/vesseldetail.aspx?vessel%5Fid=38&ref=seabits.com), and how far away it is and a bearing. There are also nice UI touches showing the direction from our boat to the Yakima, and a predictor line from them based on their course and speed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Plotter-details-WSF-Yakima.jpeg) Clicking on the Yakima banner at the bottom of the screen shows the detail page for that target. Tons of info is here including how close they'll be passing. The best buttons are along the bottom, with my two favorite being CALL and AVOID. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/AIS-target.jpeg) Here's another example using my friends on Airship from [Slowboat.com](https://slowboat.com/?ref=seabits.com). We spent some time [socially distanced cruising in the San Juans](https://slowboat.com/2020/10/socially-distanced-buddy-boating-in-the-san-juans/?ref=seabits.com) this year, and it was a perfect way to test the Cortex. You can see above they are in front of me, and clicking on their ship name gives me all the details I need to know about them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/AIS-DSC-call.jpeg) DSC call screen If I click call, I'm sent to a screen to setup the DSC call and can choose the VHF channel rather than having to fumble around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/AIS-target-avoidance-and-call.jpeg) But instead of calling them, I can also use AVOID, and the Cortex will show me a graphical representation of their port/starboard lights, and ways to avoid them. There is also a nice big DSC CALL button at the top in case I can't avoid them, and need to make a call. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/AIS-avoidance.jpeg) You can also use the question mark control at the bottom of the screen to figure out a safe course to pass or avoid them. The top of the screen shows the course to steer to avoid them based on the way you've oriented your boat. A lot of us already have chart plotters or PCs that can show this data and allow you to figure out a way to get out of someone's way. I just think Vesper has done a more elegant way of showing the data quickly with clear ways of avoiding or communicating, port/starboard lights, and all of the data about the target in one place. And, it's using the same device that you might need to grab if you want to arrange safe passing – the VHF radio. Many of the chart plotters I've used require multiple clicks to see all of this, and you still need to find the ship name and call them – here you can just click DSC CALL and be done. ## Anchor Watch Many people (including me on my sailboats) have used the Vesper anchor watch that was a feature of the XB-8000 transponder. Since I left it running most of the time, and was relatively lower power than leaving a chart plotter on, it was an excellent way to have a quality anchor watch. The Vesper Cortex continues this feature, and adds the ability to see it remotely via the Cortex Monitor app. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-onboard-anchor-watch-3.jpeg) Anchor watch via Cortex Onboard app I preferred to set the anchor watch using the Cortex Onboard smartphone app rather than from the handset. You have controls along the bottom to drop or weigh the anchor, change the anchor location, scope, and reset the anchor. The display shows the depth, range, anchor alarm circle, history, AWA, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Vesper-Cortex-anchor-drag-silence.jpeg) Anchor drag alarm The anchor alarm can be silenced, just like AIS alarms. One catch 22 here is that if you don't have a handset wherever you are sleeping, and you intend on leaving your smartphone connected to the Cortex WiFi network, you could have issues. I had mine routinely disconnect (most likely due to 2.4Ghz / distance) and my phone would happily reconnect to my on-board WiFi and the app would never update after that. There are changes coming with their WiFi implementation as I mentioned above, but you may wish to have a second handset nearer to your sleeping location if required. ## Cortex Onboard App There are two apps available for your smartphone for the Cortex – Cortex Onboard and Cortex Monitor. The Onboard app is as it sounds – you use it while you are on board. It's very similar to the actual Cortex handset, without the VHF functionality and a few other smaller things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-onboard-menu.jpeg) Cortex Onboard menu You have a menu of choices that are similar to the handset. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-onboard-transponder.jpeg) Transponder and GPS status as well as instruments You can see transponder status, GPS status, configure the unit, and see instrument dashboards, which is super nice to have as a second display somewhere. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-onboard-updates.jpeg) Cortex update via the Cortex Onboard app One of the cool things about Cortex is the fact that the hub and the handset can be upgraded easily. The handset is running some form of Android, a mobile phone operating system, and the primary way to upgrade both the base and handsets is via the Cortex Onboard application. It downloads the new software from Vesper and sends it to the pieces on board, and they each individually prompt you to go through the process. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-onboard-nearby.jpeg) Nearby vessels, plotter, and avoidance with vessel details Just like the handset, you have access to the plotter screen, can figure out how to avoid a contact, and can see nearby targets in a list. You can't initiate a DSC call or do anything VHF-related, but that makes sense, as I think the FCC's head would explode if they allowed you to use your smartphone as a radio. I also think it is generally a bad idea anyhow for many reasons. The biggest challenge with the Cortex Onboard is that you have to connect to the Cortex WiFi network to use it, which means your mobile device will complain about WiFi not having internet access, and hopefully if you have a good signal, will use cellular data to continue doing other things. There are potential changes to WiFi coming, but my experience has been middle of the road with this particular app because of the need to connect to the Cortex itself, and having the phone disconnect at inopportune times. The new Boat WiFi feature will help, but so far my testing hasn't shown it to be that reliable. ## Cortex Monitor App ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-monitor-menu.jpeg) The Cortex Monitor app is the remote monitoring app that allows you to access your boat data while away. I sort of wish they combined the apps so you don't have to switch back and forth, but I understand this was probably to delineate the two development and release-wise. It has four main parts: 1. Systems – a dashboard with drill down and alarm control on various boat data. Some of this will only work if you have NMEA 2000 or 0183 connected to the Cortex hub. 2. Controls – control relays and items remotely 3. Tracking – GPS tracking and geofence 4. Anchor Watch – remote anchor watch ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-monitor-dashboard.jpeg) Systems is what I have used the most, and Vesper have selected a number of useful bits of data to display on the dashboard. This data is coming from my NMEA 2000 network, and it shows both the data and when it was last retrieved, which I find highly useful. Having spent a ton of time with remote monitoring products, it's usually two or three clicks to see how fresh the data is. I don't have the system connected to my bilge pump or security sensors, but it looks to be pretty straightforwards, and have similar settings and alarms. You can read [Doug Miller's blog post on how having his bilge pump connected to Cortex saved his boat.](https://www.milltechmarine.com/Vesper-Cortex-Monitoring-One-of-the-most-compelling-reasons-to-buy-this-product%5Fb%5F40.html?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-monitor-wind1.jpeg) Wind details and alarms If you click into one of the bits of data, you will see a graph. You can change the scale (see below) as well as click on the alarm icon and set up alarms with varying different parameters. I like how the different types of data have appropriate alarm options, such as a high wind, average wind, and time limits for battery voltage. The only gap here is that alarms are in-app only. All of the monitoring systems I have on board (and I have a lot!) allow for multiple methods to ensure you get a critical alert – usually in-app, email, and text message. I'd like to see at least text message here just in case the app isn't working right, or you don't have a data connection yet can get basic SMS. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-monitor-battery-graph-1.jpeg) I am a sucker for graphs, and the ones included are very well done. You can look at historical information back to a month, or drill down to two hours. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-monitor-tracking.jpeg) Cortex Onboard tracking Tracking is useful to see where you've been, but you can also setup a geofence zone and alarms. This is useful for security purposes to know if your boat breaks through that zone. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Cortex-monitor-anchor-watch.jpeg) Anchor watch is also available via the Cortex Monitor app, and allows you to check on your anchored boat while away from the vessel. This is a nice feature, and something a lot of other monitoring systems don't do that well. Being able to go ashore somewhere and have the ability to get alerted if the boat drags is nice. Would be even better to have text messages too, especially in remote anchorages where LTE data isn't as reliable. In general, the LTE signal from the Cortex has been fair to moderate. It routinely reports that it is offline in many places around Puget Sound, so if you are looking for it to be 100% reliable, you will need to purchase the external LTE antenna, and even then I'm not sure that will fix it everywhere. I would make sure that if you are going to rely on Cortex for remote monitoring, you are in a good signal area, and test the installation location of the device to ensure the area you mount it in can access that signal reliably. The external antenna may also be required in most installs to guarantee this. I think for a first version of remote monitoring this is a feature-packed setup that is competitive against even some of the more established vendors in this space. You can see a lot of useful data, graphs in various different timelines, and decent alarms that are well thought out. Add in the ability to monitor the bilge, security, and even control relays remotely, and you have a very powerful system. ## Performance Overall performance has been acceptable in most cases. There were a few stability issues in the initial software that have since gone away, but it is a first generation product, so keep that in mind. Some of the core features are still going through some rough patches including LTE and squelch, so you may want to watch and see what happens before purchasing if you are concerned about those areas. AIS has performed as you would expect, as I mentioned earlier in the article. Testing it side by side with other Class B+ transponders showed that the Vesper unit was one of the best in terms of both broadcasting and receiving. Data gathered by the transponder showed up on all of the devices on my NMEA 2000 network and the Cortex Onboard app without any issues. VHF has been OK. Aside from the feature limitations with scanning, the biggest problem was getting the right antenna, and the pre-defined squelch levels. Having a poorly tuned antenna will cause any radio to perform bad, but in this case, using an AIS-tuned antenna caused a lot of issues. Squelch is the single biggest issue with the radio. There are only four choices – no squelch at all, which is not useful unless you are trying to hear something far away and never want to scan channels, and high sensitivity, medium sensitivity, and low sensitivity. I've found that the only useful preset is high, and even then, I hear only partial conversations for a lot of local traffic. I've compared this to the Standard Horizon GX2400 that is connected to the splitter port of the Cortex – so exact same antenna, same transmissions happening real-time – and I can adjust the squelch on that radio to be able to hear everything. Vesper have taken this feedback, but I have not seen any details on how this might be solved. I would hope a twisty dial control just like what we have on standard radios would be considered so that I could adjust it exactly where I'd like it. Without that, you run the risk of not being able to clearly hear important transmissions. WiFi has been good, but it has it's challenges. The range of the 2.4Ghz radio is limited, and even on a 46′ boat, I have places where I cannot connect to it. The Boat Network WiFi feature that I'm beta testing will help, but that assumes you have another network on board. Having a more powerful radio, 5Ghz support, or some sort of repeater is going to be important for some installs. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Cortex-offline.jpeg) LTE has been fair to poor. I've tried adding an external antenna from my collection, and it has improved in some situations, but only moderately. Even in populated areas, I will get at least one disconnection notice per day. In moderate signal areas, the Cortex disconnects a lot – sometimes once an hour. This is a concern if you are relying on the remote monitoring features, and I expect there will need to be some tuning or other work done here. ## Conclusions so far I think the Vesper Cortex is a fantastic meld of VHF, AIS and situational awareness. It combines things that have rarely been done before, or not been done well, and allows you to leverage the info from those different sources in a consistent and usable way. The usability and ease of use of the handset is fantastic, and it will only get better with software upgrades. Speaking of software upgrades, that is also a huge selling point of the product. Both the hub and the handset can be upgraded easily, and have very robust hardware inside. Even though this is a first generation product, it was built to allow for longevity with software updates. The AIS transponder is true to Vesper's roots and performs extremely well. The AIS alarms and plotter are super useful, and work better than any other AIS alarm system I've used. The ease of being able to add favorites and see nearby moving vessels quickly is an excellent awareness feature. As a VHF radio, it is good, but there are still gaps in base features that can cause some changes in your habits, or simply won't work for your use case (scanning, squelch, etc.). The WiFi implementation leaves some challenges with anchor alarms and app connectivity, but changes are coming here as well. Remote monitoring is a fantastic feature to have built into the entire system, and has features similar to the other vendors on the market, plus anchor watch. The frequency of updates and depth of features will likely improve with time, but this is a powerful set of features to include with the product. I'd like to see text and/or email notifications though. This is a first generation product, so there are things that are still being worked through, and some of the performance challenges could be concerns for the longer term. Keep that in mind if you do decide to purchase, but know that Vesper is very receptive to feedback, and has been addressing most issues as quickly as they can. If you are looking for a next generation VHF/AIS transponder, the Vesper Cortex is definitely one to consider. If you have a vessel with a single VHF antenna and/or space/power constraints, the Vesper Cortex could be a perfect match. > [Cortex V1 bundle](https://www.milltechmarine.com/cortex-v1?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com)[H1P handset](https://www.milltechmarine.com/cortex-h1p?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com) --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. David de Regt [December 15, 2020 at 9:38 pm](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-15) Thanks so much for this huge review. I’d been looking deeply at picking one of these up, and your review goes into many of my worries that I was unable to validate any other way, and picked up several that I never would have thought about until after I owned it. While I’m excited about the prospects of where this company and product may go in the future, at the moment I’m definitely putting it back on the “wait and see if it improves” list. Before this review I was almost definitely going to pick it up to install while we were in one place for a month this coming January. Fundamentally, though, on top of the current awkward set of deficiencies, one of my biggest worries here is that the order of development (what they put energy into) here perplexes me greatly — I wonder how they are prioritizing their feature backlog. Alerts only being in-app and not having a more robust way of receiving them means that they are essentially unusable. Interesting to look at, but definitely don’t trust them to save my boat. Moreover, as you point out the several further deficiencies specifically on the anchor alarm setup, it feels like no one actually used this on a real overnight anchoring event on a boat, or if they did, they ignored the feedback about it. Without specifically installing a handset next to your bed (!?) you literally can’t trust this setup. The 2.4-only wifi is a rather hilarious anachronism, for a product aimed so heavily at monitoring/alerting. That’s going to require new hardware to fix, unless 5ghz is hiding inactive in there with a second antenna. I hope your boat isn’t sinking while anyone near you in the marina is running their microwave. Similarly, not having the ability to connect to your local boat wifi means that you have to pick between receiving alerts and using the internet on any sort of vaguely-connected boat. In the general boat populace, I could forgive that, but this product is obviously aimed at the techy folks out there that are willing to spend more money on some shiny gadgets specifically for advanced features. These folks are likely going to have their own wifi network on their boat that they don’t want to have to switch between. I realize that you mentioned that they’re addressing at least the WAP aspect of things, allowing it to join your network, but I would have been livid if I’d installed this thing and found these issues with it, and been in a real pickle about the holes in my fiberglass I’d drilled to install it but wanting so badly to return it. The squelch settings on the radio leave me similarly perplexed — everywhere I’ve ever boated, I’ve been just knifeedgeing the squelch knob to be able to hear what’s around me without whatever the second-nearest coast guard radio station broadcasting in the distance constantly squawking in the background. I could absolutely see having an option for some sort of machine-learning-trained option here as an attempted replacement for the old analog knob, but eschewing that for off/low/med/high seems painful, as you repeatedly call out. I hope they have a full DSP pipeline for the audio there, so this feature hole can be rectified. So I dunno. I’ll be keeping an eye on this in the next year or so to see how the hardware and software develop — I hope to see a followup article from you next year on all the improvements they’ve made from customer feedback! But for now I’m pretty thoroughly scared away. 🙁 - Carl Omundsen [December 24, 2020 at 5:48 am](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-675) Hi David A quick follow up on your first impressions that might help and just in case others are also left wondering. The Cortex alarm system will wake the dead if you let it. I sleep like the dead, so I know from first hand experience that Anchor Watch will do so. You dont need a handset close by, in fact you can have your handsets and mobile devices all turned off and the Cortex Hub will tell you when the anchor is dragging – literally, its not another buzzer, its a voice that will get really loud and persistent if you ignore it. There is an important distinction to be made between your onboard and monitor experience, and Steve explains it well. Cortex Monitor does not use 2.4GHz, so dont sweat it, if your emergency bilge is running you will get a push notification to your phone to tell you – regardless of what your neighbour is cooking for dinner. Our latest software, released last week, enables Cortex to join an existing network on board while simultaneously maintaining its own network. It does both to provide a high QoS to the handsets while allowing your mobile devices to only have to join one network onboard to run Cortex Onboard, get the Cortex NMEA gateway data feed on a charting app or check your email. Cortex will make “knifeedgeing the squelch knob” a thing of the past. There are better things to do with your time :). We are committed to making VHF a better experience, you can learn more on our website, but nothing beats actually getting it in your hands and using it (we will have demonstration stands in stores soon). Dont be scared away, embrace it! 🙂 Carl Vesper Marine. - David de Regt [December 21, 2020 at 7:45 am](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-676) Of course, 3 days after I post the above, we surprisingly had an offer accepted on a new (to us) boat, without AIS and with 2008 vintage radios. So I’m suddenly going to be forced to make a decision coming up here about what to do in the next month. 🙂 Thanks much for the clarifications, and good to hear that the firmware is available now to fix the wifi deficiencies! While I’d love to make touching the squelch knob a thing of the past, Steve’s review above seems to indicate that it might need a bit more work, and that was really the biggest thing that scared me overall, more than the wifi issues. Is there any way to have remote speaker installs? I see how to set up one external speaker for the unit. The bedroom on the new boat we’re getting is going to be fairly sound-isolated from the upper enclosed flybridge, where the Vesper would be installed, so even if it’s obnoxious up top, we’ll probably be sleeping like babies down below. Is there any way to run a second alarm, whether as an N2k device, wifi, or as a split from the alarm port? - Carl Omundsen [December 21, 2020 at 6:51 pm](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-674) While there is only support for one Hub speaker at this stage, an additional portable handset is something to consider for your cabin, but the Hub can be wired to turn on an external buzzer from one of the GPIO port outputs. A simple switch can also be wired to one the inputs for a dedicated alarm silence button. Congrats on the boat purchase! We are prioritizing the fine tuning and improvements to of our squelch control on the roadmap and the have taken on the feedback above for the desire for more manual control. More to share on this soon. - [David de Regt](https://highwind.fun/?ref=seabits.com) [April 12, 2021 at 9:56 am](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-3490) Hey Carl, I figured I’d reply here before posting my own blog post about this, since it looks like you monitor this post a bit. Based on the above, I bit my lip and bought the Cortex for our new-to-us boat, and have been using it for a couple months of liveaboard at this point. And, to be completely honest, I’d probably return it at this point, if it weren’t outside the return window. High level feedback: \* The AIS seems fine. I’m not sad about the AIS performance. It shows up on my Garmin, where I use the data, and it works identically to the AIS600 I used to use there. Meets basic needs here. \* The radio is essentially useless. I know you’re trying to make knifeedging the squelch knob a thing of the past, but I literally can’t use this radio. I’m not exaggerating when I say that 80% or so of the incoming transmissions cut in and out on even the lowest squelch setting, and turning squelch off makes it unusable (just full time transmitting loud static). The iCOM radio sharing the same antenna works great, so at this point, I’ve just set the Vesper as a backup for 09 to kinda “dual”, and if I start hearing garbled messages that maybe I need to pay attention to, I mute the vesper and change the iCOM to the right channel to see what’s actually going on. \* The anchor watch is actually worse than useless, because it’s so buggy, and you think it might be working, and then it doesn’t. You go on anchor, drop the anchor symbol, move it to the right center and radius, and go to sleep. And then you wake up in the middle of the night with ANCHOR ALARM blaring next to your head, while your boat is firmly within the circle you’ve set. Or you drift outside the circle and it isn’t alarming at all. It basically feels like the actual circle that it’s using to do the alarm calculation is not the same thing as what the displays are showing. I don’t know if it’s fighting with the separate anchor alarm that I’m setting from my Garmin chartplotter or what, but at this point I no longer trust it at all and are using other crappy iPad apps combined with my Garmin. \* Even if the anchor alarm did work, the iOS app, at least (no idea about the android one), does not support high-priority alerts, so you need to turn your screen timeout off and leave the phone screen on all night and hope that no popups from the OS interrupt the process and stop it from alerting you in the middle of the night. Mid-level issues: \* I’ve had to disable the collision warnings. I don’t know what it’s thinking, but it thinks that we’re driving into people that are off to the side of us, or behind us. I originally thought it was just a heading sensor issue, but the boat angle is showing correct on the map, so I have no idea what’s up, but I’ve had to just disable it at this point since otherwise I’m just muting it every 5 minutes on the ICW for boats that I will never come anywhere near. \* I’m using the new connect-to-host-boat-wifi system, and it seems very buggy. Most of the time I open the phone app or turn on the handset, it needs me to go in and press the reconnect button to connect to the cortex. Then randomly while under way it loses the connectivity and I have to press the button again. The wifi router is \~4 feet from the cortex, and the reconnect button always connects quickly, but it appears to have no automatic reconnect or something. Then just lots of little bugs: \* Rotation on the anchor watch screen seems random, and when you go to rotation mode and start rotating, it picks a random start angle and when you release it then flips to somewhere else random. Just a UI bug where it’s not properly picking the start angle of the rotation, calculating a delta, and then applying it to the original angle, it looks like. \* When you press the “16” button it auto sets high power, but the settings panel shows low power, so you have to toggle to high power and back again to get back to low power — just awkward, another UI bug. \* Channel scrolling with the wheel is very slow. Most of the time you hail someone (boat or marina) on 16 and then switch to 68/69, and it takes seemingly forever to scroll over to the end of the list there compared to any other radio I’ve ever used, so they’re always trying to hail back to me by the time I can get to the channel. \* Before I turned the collision alarms off (and stopped using the radio), it kept periodically “tracking” on an AIS target, and possibly that was in DSC mode, because when it got stuck displaying a collision target on the bottom of the main radio screen, marinas could never hear my transmissions with the Vesper ever again. I had to hard reset the handheld to get it back to working again. At this point it’s basically a very expensive AIS unit for me, and backup radio. Not the end of the world, but I’m hoping that someday the above stuff will be fixed and I can use it for more than that. 🙁 Feel free to reach out for more details if I can be more helpful here. I’ve actually been working on some to-be-open-sourced hardware/software for a year or so as a side project based on raspberry pis, and I was really excited that the Vesper would make my project obsolete, but it unfortunately didn’t make it, so I’m happy to put time in trying to just make it better. - Ben Ellison [December 17, 2020 at 12:16 am](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-12) Hi Steve, and thanks for linking to my review of the Cortex M1 Hub at the top. I too have seen cascading Online/Offline alerts from the off boat Monitor app, but in my case it’s because Cortex seems to be switching between TMobile LTE and AT&T 3G. And I can see via the Settings/Networks/Diagnostics page in the Onboard app that either connection can be weak, no surprise here but nice to see quantified. And nice that Cortex switches services based on QoS, though it seems like the sensisitivity could be dialed back a bit. Also, I’m really curious about your squelch issues. I haven’t written about my H1 handset testing yet, but in my experience the squelch bias controls work better than any VHF squelch I’ve ever experienced. Actually I hardly ever changed it from the Normal position because pretty much 100% of the time I just hear VHF audio with almost no noise, and I’m almost always in dual channel mode and switching that around. Of course I’m also in a less VHF congested area with a different antenna. (And I do have a noise issue on Channel 68 which no Cortex squelch setting can fix, though I suspect its an onboard issue because neither Vesper nor Ben Stein can duplicate it, and the Standard Horizon GX6000 on the same antenna has odd noise on channel 67). At any rate, what do you mean about hearing “only partial conversations for a lot of local traffic”? The audio is hidden in noise or squelched out? Can you post a recording? I’ll add that while the H1 handset isn’t designed to be moved, I have tried it at both my lower helm and on the flybridge and had zero problems with the Cortex 2.4 WiFi connection. My M1 hub is close to both locations but there is other 2.4 mHz activity in the same area, and I’m pretty sure the portable H1p handset will work anywhere on my 37-footer, though maybe better in some places if routed through my boat network. Finally, for David commenting below, the Cortex AIS, MoB, and Anchor Drag audio alerts come through the Onboard app, the handsets, the hub, and a speaker if attached — and except for the hub’s buzzer, they’re spoken alerts that work well for me — with visual alerts on the app and handsets. The only alerts that are app-only come from the Cortex Monitor app, but device notifications are also included, and I’m hoping they’ll add SMS texts. I’d also like to see some of the off-boat monitoring alerts like “High Bilge!” available via all the onboard methods, and that seems very possible with Cortex, though maybe down the list of features to be added. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [December 17, 2020 at 9:11 am](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-673) Hi Ben, I hadn’t noticed the switching of carriers as much as just simply no network at all. I have one other product using a similar LTE-M or IoT style radio combo, and it is having similar issues in areas where non LTE-M stuff works fine on all providers, so I think this is more of an issue of pure signal than it is tuning, but who knows – there could still be things that could be done here. I have connected the Cortex to a couple of the many LTE antennas I have on board, and that has helped. I just got the Vesper LTE antenna and will be testing that soon. The squelch issue is definitely something that others have reported to me offline in email. Being able to dial it in for even higher sensitivity is a must – the biggest issue is missing entire parts of conversations because of whatever it is doing with one of the automatic settings. I’m wondering if it is more dynamic than just a high/medium/low as it seems that there is a bit more going on. The audio is actually squelched out, or it sounds like it is being squelched out. Something else could definitely be going on inside Cortex, but you only hear one word, then miss 3, then another word, etc. A similar radio right next to it (handheld) has no issues, and the GX2400 which is connected off of the splitter port on the Cortex has no issue either. I’ve tried it with both the wired and wireless handsets, and the same issue happens, so it’s not WiFi or specific to the handset or speakers – definitely a system wide thing. I spend a lot of time in my consulting business working on marina and boat WiFi issues, and designing and implementing marina WiFi solutions, and it is a hard business to be in if you need to use 2.4Ghz, even in a small location like a boat. I’ve used my scanning equipment and can see that the Cortex WiFi signal isn’t reaching places, as you would expect, and that the phone isn’t going to be able to connect to it directly as a result, same with the handsets. The Boat Network feature they have in beta will help with that once the bugs get worked out with that as well. - David de Regt [January 20, 2021 at 9:53 pm](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-634) PS your link to the 159mhz antenna is two URLs concatenated by accident. 🙂 - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 23, 2021 at 12:53 pm](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-657) Fixed, thanks! - Nick E. [January 24, 2021 at 6:25 pm](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-668) Hi Steve, In your review, specifically the antenna sidebar, you mention using a 159mhz tuned antenna. I just installed the Cortex V1 today and am having an issue that every so often the antenna indicator flashes red for either an antenna short or high VSWR. Most of the time it is green. I have noticed that my vessel is not showing up on any of the AIS apps/websites. What indicators did you notice on your Cortex when trying out the various antennas before settling on the 159mhz antenna? I have a Morad 156mhz antenna that I have had no issues communicating on and receiving AIS signals. The only things that have changed was removing the older SH radio, installing the Cortex, and having to re-do the PL-239\. I am having no issues with VHF comms, so I am not suspecting the PL-239, leaving only the Cortex and 156mhz tuned antenna. Hate to have to buy a new antenna and climb the mast. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 24, 2021 at 9:56 pm](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-677) Hi Nick, I didn’t have any of those sorts of issues when using a 156Mhz antenna. I had really good VHF performance based on how it was tuned, but slightly less performance with AIS in general. However, I never saw a red indicator. Have you checked to see if it is sending AIS transmit packets? If you click on the hamburger menu on the top right, then the wrench, then systems, then AIS, do you see TX values for both channel A and B? This is also a good spot to check your RSSI values for the antenna and performance. When you say your VHF comms are OK, what sort of testing have you done here? It’s much easier for a radio to listen and receive signals than it is to send them, especially if you have a connection issue. Have you tried transmitting and having someone further away listen to the quality of your signal? Another option is to open a support ticket with Vesper – they are very responsive, but they’re likely to ask for the same data in terms of your antenna performance on the AIS screen. - Nick E. [February 13, 2021 at 9:56 am](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-1275) Good Snowy Morning! To follow up. Thank you for letting me know the indications you noticed. I did get the issue sorted concerning the VSWR the following morning. Prior to purchasing the Vesper, I had contacted Vesper Support, and was impressed how quickly they responded and the thoroughness of the response. That kind of support is always appreciated and big plus. Because I am in the middle of a major refit, rewiring the whole boat, new electronics, lighting, tiller pilot, HF radio, solar, etc. I have not had a chance to leave the dock, but I have popped up on Marine Traffic. A lot of people mention how expensive Cortex is, but you get a lot of features for your money that would cost far more than purchasing and connecting all those features separately. From what I have experienced so far I have been very impressed with the thoughtful design, ease of installation, connectivity, and mostly intuitive interface. I don’t think any boat owner or installer would regret going with a Vesper Cortex. - Mani [April 9, 2021 at 9:17 am](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-3486) Hi all there, at the moment I am testing my new unit only in a marina. I use a VHF tuned antenna on a sailboatmast, it works fine for VHF and AIS. But, I have trouble with the Wifi. In my feeling it is too weak. The M1 Unit is inside the boat, in the cockpit, maybe 3 meter away, I already have a weak signal. It does not make a difference, wether I use the inside or outside Wifi antenna. I will try to move the Wifi antenna with a short cabel to a better place, hope that will help. - Austin G. [April 25, 2021 at 3:50 pm](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-3506) I’ve just had my first two weekends on the boat since lockdown has been relaxed, and therefore took the opportunity to install my new Cortex and test it. In my setup I have two wired handsets and a speaker directly connected to the base unit. I am using only the Cortex wifi network with boat network disabled because being a sailboat I don’t run my boat wifi at sea to conserve power. I have had a similar experience as others – highly impressed with many features, including excellent AIS reception and presentation, the collision avoidance tools, the user interface and build quality (though there are a few areas of the UI that could be tidied up), the anchor watch and remote monitoring, but I am however quite concerned with the VHF reception. I often have broken reception fragments which at first I put down to wifi contention in the marina, but this continued at sea well away from other sources of wifi. I have noticed some strange behaviour with this fragmentation: 1\. Sometimes handsets will broadcast different fragments of conversations. The handset furthest away from the base unit (about 3.5m, with some fibreglass and wood between the two) is least reliable but even the handset mounted 10cm away from the base unit, with just a thin wood panel separating them, is regularly affected. 2\. Sometimes there will be delays from one handset to another and between handsets and the speaker, causing an ‘echo’ effect. 3\. Sometimes, and strangest of all, a handset will broadcast a fragment of a conversation that the base connected speaker does not! This leads me to think that squelch is being applied independently on the handsets and the base unit. A Standard Horizon handheld used as a control / benchmark didn’t exhibit any breakup with a correctly set squawk. The delay between the handheld and Cortex isn’t going to bother me providing the problem with breakup is sorted out. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:21 pm](https://seabits.com/vesper-cortex-first-impressions/#comment-3616) I’ve had the same experience, and I think you’re right – each device is applying squelch a different way. I have two Cortex handsets and hear different things out of both of them when they’re close together or apart. I’ve got one of them on the boat network since I use it in my stateroom, and the normal Cortex WiFi doesn’t reach there, and it has the same problem even with the different WiFi network. I’ve repeatedly brought up the squelch control to Vesper, and they’ve said they intend on looking into it, but I have seen no improvement or new beta features. For this reason, I still have not begun using it as my primary radio, as I simply can’t trust it. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 12 comments Hartley Gardner@Hartley November 23, 2021 Hi Steve - the site looks nice! I really like your home page drone shot Regarding both the Cortex and VHF radios in general, it would sure be nice if we could figure out a way to do a meaningful technical evaluation of the radio itself. By this I mean stuff like power output - frequency accuracy/stability, receiver sensitivity AND selectivity, IMD performance, etc. This would be a good place to see what’s up with the squelch settings, too So much of these reviews are (of necessity, sadly) subjective - and what seems fine for you in your area might be a disaster for me in mine (particularly things like receiver performance). In my case, I removed a GX1600 from my helm and put in an IC-M506, because the IMD and other noxious noises I was getting in populated areas was making me crazy! The difference has been significant. Thanks for all the free ice cream! Hartley S/V Atsa Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 November 24, 2021 Hi [@Hartley](https://seabits.com/u/hartley) \- thanks for the kind words! It would be nice to have a rig to test all of the radios side by side. Even then, though, a lot of performance would still be dependent on mounting location, quality of power/connections, and of course cabling and antennas - location, placement, quality, etc. At least for me, I try to test these things with one change at a time, and with the same base hardware and environmental conditions possible. For instance, I used the same antenna and cabling with the Vesper Cortex, Standard Horizon GX-2400, and an ICOM model that I’ve forgotten (can look it up in the test data) to see how things performed. Even longer term than that, I’ve been using the Cortex since early 2020 with the Standard Horizon GX-2400 attached to the splitter port on the Cortex, and both radios on pretty much 24x7\. The Standard Horizon out performs the Vesper in terms of transmit, receive, and of course in squelch control. Hopefully over time Vesper will tweak this, but a lot of it is dependent on the hardware they already have in the system. They have been talking about some really nice features coming where you can “listen” to multiple channels simultaneously - not scanning like current radios do. That could open up some better features and functions, but ultimately if they don’t fix the squelch issues, it won’t really matter. Hartley Gardner@Hartley November 25, 2021 Hi [@Steve](https://seabits.com/u/steve)! Performance will always be dependent on installation specifics, though as you have done, comparisons using the same antenna, vessel, etc. do help. But there are waaay too many radio models to try to install them all in one vessel to compare, and then you would only be looking at the specific challenges that vessel faces. In the 2-way radio world (where I came from), manufacturers are expected to publish a number of relevant specifications, as measured by the EIA/TIA-603 standard (for FM radios). This allows a potential purchaser to examine which equipment performs best with the challenges they feel are most important. Things like IMD susceptibility or spurious receiver response might be of considerable interest, for example, to an urban-area user, while power output and receiver sensitivity might be of greater concern to a rural user. Some users might be more concerned with temperature stability or ruggedness - everybody is a bit different Unfortunately, manufacturers of marine VHF radios do not often publish the more difficult-to-measure specs, so we’re left rather in the dark. For sure the Cortex’ squelch difficulties should be a huge black mark for such an expensive bit of kit - basic radio functions should work flawlessly at this price point (IMHO) and no amount of fancy features compensates for this. I hope you are enjoying an wonderful Thanksgiving with your family today! Hartley Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 November 30, 2021 Hartley: > But there are waaay too many radio models to try to install them all in one vessel to compare, and then you would only be looking at the specific challenges that vessel faces. True, but you could test the top 5 radios in relatively the same conditions and have some very useful data. One of my day jobs for years was performance testing networking equipment, and while that sort of testing is useful to see overall maximum performance, the products never really performed that way in the real world. I think using things in real world conditions is more interesting for many reasons, but it is true that one could not test every radio all of the time. Hartley: > Unfortunately, manufacturers of marine VHF radios do not often publish the more difficult-to-measure specs, so we’re left rather in the dark. Very true, and it would be great to have more information from them. Hartley: > For sure the Cortex’ squelch difficulties should be a huge black mark for such an expensive bit of kit - basic radio functions should work flawlessly at this price point (IMHO) and no amount of fancy features compensates for this The way squelch works has been discussed as a designed feature. Instead of someone having to tune it manually, Vesper wants you to let the radio do it for you. They also said it was done in a way to simplify it for common users - instead of having to learn about squelch, they can just pick one. While I have seen some people not understand squelch, it’s not a hard concept to learn, and relatively easy to tune. I don’t generally mess with mine that much unless I am trying to hear something very distant or with a poor signal. Nevertheless, the way it works now makes for a lot of missed audio and Vesper needs to offer an alternative - even a manual adjustment for “advanced” users would be better than what we have now. Hartley: > I hope you are enjoying an wonderful Thanksgiving with your family today! I ate far too much! I hope you had an enjoyable day as well! Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #6 December 10, 2021 Hi Steve! \[Man it sure gets busy this time of year!\] I even got to pay a visit to Atsa, which is languishing on the hard in freezy-cold Maryland. It seems we forgot to bring our HD tarp with us, so I had to bring it North and install it. Took the rest of the time doing yet more prep work for the LiFePO4 install, which will happen whenever Victron gets the battery itself there… In a “normal” FM receiver, squelch works by measuring the amount of “quieting” (i.e., reduction of noise) at an audio frequency well above that used for voice comms - something maybe in the 8-12 kHz range. Since quieting is a fairly good representation of signal strength/quality, they work fairly well and predictably. Drifting EMI, of course, can fool them into thinking there is a legit signal present, and the presence of high-frequency noise in the detected audio (from interference mixing, for example) can cause them to close on a readable signal. If Vesper can use DSP to make a better squelch, that’s a good thing, but if users are aware that the squelch is malfunctioning, that’s not a good sign. On HF-SSB, a reliable squelch can be surprisingly difficult, since the “quieting” approach doesn’t work on AM. Olde-tyme HF radios used a signal-strength squelch, but they really weren’t very good (ask an ancient mariner how the squelch on his olde 2-6 MHz AM Marine radio circa 1955 worked and you’ll get an earful!) Some modern SSB radios use a DSP squelch that attempts to discern a human voice from all the beeps and gronks that infest the HF airwaves - the squelch in the Mobat MICOM-3 radios we use at work is not bad, really - though it isn’t perfect. There’s a reason why digital calling schemes abound (not just DSC) for HF comms. I think we agree that it would be nice to have manufacturers supply more in-depth specs for their radios - even if relatively few users understand or would use them. For someone with a specific interest - say, operating in an RF-intense location (like a major city harbor) could try to isolate the best radio for their mission. Alas, I fear we won’t see much change here And it would take a fair investment in equipment to do much in-depth testing - stuff like power output, current draw and transmit frequency accuracy are fairly easy, but receiver performance measurement beyond raw sensitivity is much more intense. So have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year out there and we’ll see what 'ol Santa has in store for us next year! Hartley Hartley Gardner@Hartley↩ #7 March 23, 2022 Well, I was looking around the Internet today, and it seems I will need to eat my own words! I was looking at fixed VHF radios, and every one of the models Defender carries had at least some useful specifications listed! Some, like the new Icom M510, had a very complete list of specs (and this allows you to see why the M510 costs 3X what the GX1800 does :)) Progress! Hartley Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 March 23, 2022 Well that is good news! I’ve had an M510 for a couple of months and am really liking it. I’ll do a write up on it soon. Hartley Gardner@Hartley March 23, 2022 I figured you would find the WiFi remote hookup irresistible Steve Mitchell@steve March 23, 2022 I’m actually not a fan of any WiFi bits in VHF radios other than the Cortex, and even the Cortex has some issues. Most of the other VHF radios have implemented it poorly, mostly for remote handsets, and charge lots of additional $ for their antennas or other bits you need. They never seem to work reliably, and always have some issue. I was really interested in the M510 for the excellent ICOM reputation and the clear display. The little wireless add-on box has been not that reliable, and while nice, is definitely another example of a poorly implemented WiFi thing on a VHF radio. Evan@Evan May 08, 2023 Hi Steve, wondering if you have any new thoughts post software update. I’m considering adding a Cortex to our boat but am concerned that post Garmin purchase, the vision/focus may have been lost for this product. Steve Mitchell@steve May 08, 2023 Good question! I just upgraded to their newest software and have been so happy, the Vesper Cortex has become my primary VHF, which is saying **a lot**. I’m super picky when it comes to VHF and the Cortex has really sucked since initial release. All of the features that were promised with the radio seemed to be a little funky, and many things we had hoped for were not available. The latest release makes this the most functional, easiest to use multi-channel VHF there is. The ability to “listen” to multiple channels at the same time alone, combined with the replay feature, is game changing. I have an article planned on the changes coming soon! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #13 July 19, 2023 I am still working on this new article after having some updates to the new version and continued testing. Should be out in the next month! ### Actisense smart universal terminators URL: https://seabits.com/actisense-smart-terminators/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T05:09:41.000Z NMEA 2000 networks can be frustrating as evidenced by the amount of times I help troubleshoot them. Actisense has come out with a small piece of hardware that is a new take on something old, and adds the utility of being universal. The two most common issues I see with NMEA 2000 networks are inadequate power, or poor/bad/no termination of the bus. Both of these things will cause instability for the devices on the network, and many other ancillary “weird” issues. Low voltage is usually an issue at one end of the bus, where the length of the wiring has caused a voltage drop. This results in devices in that section behaving erratically, or not “seeing” devices elsewhere on the bus reliably. In extreme cases, it can result in devices powering off or rebooting, especially when other large loads kick on, such as a windlass. Poor termination can happen from a missing terminator, a bad terminator, or termination in the wrong place in the bus. This results in a myriad of issues, but all coming back to things not “seeing” each other, or really erratic data and behavior. One way to solve these issues is a [NMEA 2000 tester](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-troubleshooting-tools/) – either an expensive one like the Maretron N2K Tester, or a simple one made of a NMEA 2000 cable and a voltage tester. You can read more about how to test a NMEA 2000 network and the tools for it below. [NMEA 2000 network troubleshooting toolsNMEA 2000 networks are part of any connected boat, and can be problematic by nature of their design. Troubleshooting an N2K network can be done very easily.![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Maretron-N2K-meter-1-1.jpg)](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-troubleshooting-tools/) Actisense have come up with a rather innovative way to do some basic validation using a single device that becomes part of your NMEA 2000 network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Actisense-terminator-bag-front.jpeg) This is the [Actisense Smart Universal Micro Terminator](https://actisense.com/products/a2k-ter-u/?ref=seabits.com), part number [A2K-TER-U](https://actisense.com/products/a2k-ter-u/?ref=seabits.com). You can find them at various places online including [Navstore](https://www.navstore.com/actisense-a2k-ter-u-smart-universal-micro-terminator.html?ref=seabits.com) in the US. The terminator is universal, meaning it can be used in a female or male configuration, and has an LED indicating whether your bus has power, and if the power is above 9V. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Actisense-terminator-bag-rear.jpeg) They are more expensive than a traditional terminator, but I think they are worth the money. Documentation is on the back of the included bag, and shows both how they are universal, and the lighting used to indicate voltage. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Actisense-smart-terminator.jpeg) As is usual from Actisense, the terminator is made using quality plastic and stainless, and seems well built in general. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Electronics-close-1.jpeg) You can see a bit of a circuit board inside that is likely responsible for switching the termination from one end to the other, and generating the LED lighting based on voltage detected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Electronics-close-2.jpeg) ## Universal ends ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Actisense-terminator-universal-one-end.jpeg) No more searching for the terminator that is female or male – now you can just uncap the end that matches, and plug it in. I don't know why someone hasn't done this before, but it sure saves scurrying around looking for the right one! ## Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/Old-terminator.jpeg) Old terminator at the end of my test bus For the last 10 years or so, I have used Maretron cabling (pre-made and raw cable + field installed ends) and their taps, drop ends, and other pieces. When I re-did [Rendezvous network](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) after purchasing her, I chose to use some Actisense products including their wonderful 4 port tap that you see above. This is one of my test networks that I use for things I don't trust yet, and it has a standard terminator in the upper left of the picture. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/New-terminator.jpeg) New terminator installed with cap on exposed end You can see I've replaced the traditional terminator above with the new universal one. It's just a bit bigger than the older one, and of course has a nice green glowing light indicating I have power and that the bus is terminated. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/New-terminator-zoomed.jpeg) I really like the idea of a visual indicator telling you that bus voltage is acceptable, as well as indicating that the bus is terminated. That it is universal is even one step better, and makes this a no-brainer on just about any NMEA 2000 network. It's not as sexy as a new chart plotter or satellite compass, but the network that keeps all that sort of stuff connected is just as important. Being able to see at a glance that things are OK is super convenient. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. mscientist [December 7, 2020 at 5:18 am](https://seabits.com/actisense-smart-terminators/#comment-17) Any idea who sells these online? Can’t find it anywhere. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [December 7, 2020 at 5:29 am](https://seabits.com/actisense-smart-terminators/#comment-22) I provided a link to NavStore further up in the article, if you’re in the US. Gemeco is the main reseller in the US and they could also probably track down more vendors, assuming you’re in the US. Ben Ellison [December 8, 2020 at 3:30 pm](https://seabits.com/actisense-smart-terminators/#comment-21) I too have found it useful for troubleshooting and, as usual for the A2K line, beautifully made. Also worth noting that it can serve as an inline terminator, which means a TER-U can end a network’s backbone but you can connect a drop cable (maximum 6m/19.6ft) and device to the other end. [BoatGuyBill](http://www.boatguybill.com/?ref=seabits.com) [December 15, 2020 at 4:18 pm](https://seabits.com/actisense-smart-terminators/#comment-16) Just got mine in the mail! I’m excited to give it a try. Maybe my small project of “is it right” will quickly become a make it right job! Scott C [May 17, 2021 at 5:37 pm](https://seabits.com/actisense-smart-terminators/#comment-3535) Was wondering if anyone had any input on two edges cases that I’ve been curious about, both involving ‘unused taps’. The first is a not fully populating a mutliport tap (eg 1 in, 1 out, + 4 device drops) such as the actisense 4 port tap. I assume you wouldn’t need a terminator on each unused port (eg in & out are connected to the backbone, 2 of 4 device ports connected to drops and devices) because effectively the the unused ports are ON the signal wires, and don’t have enough length to cause a meaningful reflection. The second scenario is an evolution of the first, where the unused drop not has a drop cable attached to it. In this case I can imagine the length of the drop cable coming off the multiport is long enough to cause a reflection issue, and this a terminator should probably be used. But if there really is only supposed to be 2 terminators on a proper NMEA2k network, would the third cause a problem? My college level RF is pretty rusty for things like signal reflection and terminators. Steve, back in the day I believe Grace had a ‘debug’ NMEA2k port in your electronics panel, did you have issues with that drop (populated or unpopulated) cause network issues? Appreciate your time and sorry to ‘dig up an old thread’ as it were and not thinking to ask the question first time I read this - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 15, 2021 at 11:26 am](https://seabits.com/actisense-smart-terminators/#comment-3595) Terminators are meant for the extreme ends of a bus only, not open ports. A NMEA 2000 network should only ever have two of them, period. Adding any more will cause all sorts of issues, and is actually pretty common to see in incorrectly setup systems. Open or spare ports are not really connected to anything – they’re just extra wire hanging out waiting for something to be plugged in. I’m not sure what you mean by reflection, but there’s really not anything wrong or bad with having extras – I have many for expansion and such. ### NMEA 2000 powered Raspberry Pi URL: https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/ Last updated: 2026-08-07T21:19:01.000Z Running a Raspberry Pi aboard a boat has been a popular thing to do for a number of years. I’ve had them on every boat since the Pi first came out. Connecting them to a NMEA 2000 network, and powering them off a DC battery bank has required a bit more work up until now. ## Why a Pi? There are many reasons to have a Raspberry Pi connected to your boat network that I can think of. My main reason is to run a [Signal K](https://seabits.com/tag/signalk/) server on it, have it connected to my NMEA 2000 network, and leverage the hundreds of plugins and pieces of software that you can install to create dashboards, gather data, set alarms and alerts, and so much more. In addition, you can run [OpenCPN](https://opencpn.org/?ref=seabits.com) or [OpenPlotter](https://openmarine.net/openplotter?ref=seabits.com) and have a fully functioning boat control, autopilot, chart, etc. system that has features just like the big vendors. On sailboats in particular, I loved having a Pi on board because I could have an always-on computer that didn't take a ton of power, had a decent amount of CPU power, and use it to monitor things while I was away. ## The old way… The first step in connecting a Pi to the boat was to find a proper power supply. Raspberry Pi's run off of USB power which is 5V, and not generally available on the boat in a permanent way. I always wanted mine to run off of the 12v DC battery bank without any connection to an AC outlet, inverter, or USB converter that isn't hard wired. I have had good luck with [this 12v-5v converter from Tobsun](https://amzn.to/2JzcLCf?ref=seabits.com), and I particularly like it because it has four screw down terminals on it, making it easy to connect cabling. Once the power problem is solved, connecting the Pi to the boat network involved either an [Actisense NGT-1 USB adapter](https://www.actisense.com/products/ngt-1-nmea-2000-to-pc-interface/?ref=seabits.com) ($) or a [canable.io](https://canable.io/?ref=seabits.com) adapter to get it on the NMEA 2000 network. Both have pros and cons and require connecting to a USB port on the Pi, plus some configuration. ## An easier way…. A reader and Instagram follower (thanks [Ilker Temir](https://www.instagram.com/ilkertemir/?ref=seabits.com)!) pointed me to an add-on board, or [HAT](https://thepihut.com/collections/raspberry-pi-hats?ref=seabits.com), for the Raspberry Pi called the [PICAN-M](http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/picanm-with-nmea-0183-and-nmea-2000-connection-3a-smps-p-1599.html?ref=seabits.com), and I was intrigued. I [ordered one from Copperhill Technologies](https://copperhilltech.com/pican-m-nmea-0183-nmea-2000-hat-for-raspberry-pi/?ref=seabits.com) here in the US and it arrived a few days later. The original manufacturer of the board is [SK Pang Electronics](http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/picanm-with-nmea-0183-and-nmea-2000-connection-3a-smps-p-1599.html?ref=seabits.com) out of the UK. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Raspberry-Pi-4.jpeg) Raspberry Pi 4 I had a Raspberry Pi 4 that I had been playing around with ever since it came out, but didn’t have a clear purpose for it. I decided to install the PICAN-M on it, and then try out a few different things. I generally [purchase the CanaKit bundle](https://amzn.to/360QLrl?ref=seabits.com) when I am buying a Raspberry Pi (I think I have about 15 right now doing various things at home and on the boat) as they tend to include a nice power supply, case, cables, and mainstream brand SD card, but you can get them cheaper without those pieces if you prefer. In this case, the extra parts and pieces were important when I bought the Pi to do testing in general, but were not necessary since the PICAN-M provides power, and the case provided by CanaKit won't work. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/PICAN-M-top.jpeg) PICAN-M HAT board The PICAN-M is a pretty simple, yet well designed board. It has a NMEA 0183 terminal block and NMEA 2000 port on the left side in the picture above, and the connector for the Raspberry Pi on the right hand side. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/PICAN-M-board-close.jpeg) Close up of PICAN-M board There is a really nice [schematic](http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/images/raspberrypi/pican-m/pican-m%5Frev%5FB.pdf?ref=seabits.com) and [user guide](http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/images/raspberrypi/pican-m/pican-m%5FUGB%5F10.pdf?ref=seabits.com) that SK Pang have provided on their website. The board looks very well built with clearly labeled bits. Here's what SK Pang say the board is capable of: **Features** - CAN connection via Micro-C connector - 120Ω terminator ready - SocketCAN driver - appears as can0 to application - NMEA 0183 (RS422) via 5-way screw terminal - appears as ttyS0 to application - LED indicator (GPIO22) - Qwiic (I2C) connector for extra sensors - Include 3A SMPS to power the board and the Pi from 12v line. - Compatible with OpenCPN, OpenPlotter, Signal K and CANBoat So besides NMEA 2000 and 0183, you can also connect other I2C sensors if you'd like. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/PICAN-M-ports-top.jpeg) NMEA 2000 Micro-C connector and terminal block for NMEA 0183 The biggest challenge with the board is going to be finding a proper case that has the right cutout. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/PICAN-M-installed-side.jpeg) PICAN-M installed on top of Raspberry Pi 4 Installing the board is straightforwards. Included in the package are four standoffs and screws which need to be attached to the Raspberry Pi. Then carefully slide the PICAN-M down the pins on the Raspberry Pi until it is well seated, and screw it down to the standoffs. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/PICAN-M-installed-angled.jpeg) > If you're interested in a step-by-step guide on how to set this up with Signal K, Grafana, InfluxDB and more, check out my article below: [Set up Signal K and Grafana on Raspberry Pi with PICAN-M NMEA 2000 boardWith the advent of streamlined Raspberry Pi + NMEA 2000 hardware, building a dedicated Signal K server has never been easier. This article walks you through the steps.![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/signalk-setup-cover.png)](https://seabits.com/set-up-signal-k-and-grafana-on-raspberry-pi-with-pican-m-nmea-2000-board/) ## Case This is probably the only downside to this setup. The standard cases that come with the Raspberry Pi do not assume you will have an add-on or HAT board with it. Those that accommodate HATs are pretty specific, and have holes or punch outs for specific types of connectors. I have not found a NMEA 2000 specific case – perhaps an opportunity for 3d printing! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/HiFiBerry-case-PICAN-M.jpeg) I found a [case from HiFiBerry](https://amzn.to/3jVsPuk?ref=seabits.com) that was meant for an audio HAT and hacked holes in it to allow the NMEA 2000 port to be exposed. It's not great, but it works for now and keeps the boards reasonably safe. ## For those who prefer life at 7 knots. Reviews, deep dives, and real-world projects from aboard my trawler [**Aruna*](https://seabits.com/aruna/). Subscribe Email sent! Check your inbox to complete your signup. Join 2,000+ boat nerds and helps support my journey. Unsubscribe anytime. ## Software & Usage I installed three different things on the Pi to test with, just for [OpenPlotter](https://openmarine.net/openplotter?ref=seabits.com), [OpenCPN](https://opencpn.org/?ref=seabits.com), and then just Linux with Signal K. To do this, I simply connected the NMEA 2000 port to power up the Pi, plugged the included HDMI-mini to HDMI cable into a monitor, connected a keyboard, and followed the install instructions for OpenPlotter/OpenCPN. You can do this in an automated way, or even headless (without a monitor or keyboard) but it can get a bit fiddly if you make a mistake in the installation. For Linux + Signal K, I used the standard Raspbian server minimal distribution and then installed Signal K afterwards. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/PICAN-M-signalk.jpeg) PICAN-M + Raspberry Pi running Signal K The super nice thing is that the NMEA 2000 port just shows up as can0 to the operating system, so it is very easy to start using one of these applications to access the data on the NMEA 2000 network. The absolute best part about this entire setup is the fact that the NMEA 2000 port is native, and that it powers the entire computer. No other cables or connections are required. This opens up even more utility when considering what you could use this for. Besides running heavier applications like the above, you could use these in strategic places all around the boat to create an entire sensor network. Connect it to a NMEA 2000 tee somewhere, and have I2C or other sensors (Raspberry Pi have a wealth of different ways to connect various sensors) connected to tanks, temperature, momentary, etc. and run Signal K on each, spitting the data back to a central Pi or other computer to display things. The possibilities are actually quite exciting. I've tried to do this in the past with Arduino and other technologies, and it has been a bit of a mess with having to power them by battery or other conversions. ## Cost & Conclusion Overall this is a pretty inexpensive way of getting a boat computer on board: - [CanaKit Raspberry Pi 4 bundle](https://amzn.to/360QLrl?ref=seabits.com) – $114.99 - [HiFiBerry HighPi case](https://amzn.to/362ucm6?ref=seabits.com) – $17.95 - [PICAN-M HAT board](https://copperhilltech.com/pican-m-nmea-0183-nmea-2000-hat-for-raspberry-pi/?ref=seabits.com) – $94.95 - [NMEA 2000 cable](https://amzn.to/3l6DQu8?ref=seabits.com) – $15 Total: $242.89 This is a very reasonable price, and is actually about the same cost as the Actisense NGT-1 USB to NMEA 2000 interface alone! For just under $250, you end up with a bus-powered, low power usage, reasonably powerful computer on your NMEA 2000 network. You could buy a bare Raspberry Pi instead of one in a kit like I did and save some money, since you won't need a power supply or the case it comes with. You could throw in a [7″ touch screen](https://amzn.to/2I0xnmq?ref=seabits.com), similar to [what I did on Grace's navigation panel](https://seabits.com/completed-navigation-panel/), and have a complete computer setup that you could interact with like a chart plotter, all powered by the NMEA 2000 bus connection. I think this is a fantastic way to get Signal K on board your boat in a single hardware device, all powered by the NMEA 2000 network. It's also a great way to add OpenCPN or OpenPlotter if you don't have a good navigation / boat management tool already on board. It's well made, easy to put together, and opens up the possibility of having access to boat data for those not interested in the more DIY approach. If you have a NMEA 2000 network, and don't have Signal K installed, this is a perfect way to do it. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Charles Milléquant [November 15, 2020 at 6:26 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-31) Thanks for this article. I am currently building my own setup and this PICAN Hat will be part of the game ! I however have a question : how would you manage to add an active cooling device to this setup knowing that Raspberry pi 4 tends to produce a lot of heat and will need to be cooled by a fan if enclosed in whatever case I can fit all of this into ? Phil [November 15, 2020 at 7:44 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-30) Have been using this board full time for about 2 months now. I have not had any problems with a Pi 4 getting hot (in and enclosed case). A tip that caught me out was the the NMEA0183 (RS422) input. to send data to the PiCAN-M use pints IN+ and Ground, not IN+ and IN- - [Charlie](http://charlie@biscayneyachtsales.com/?ref=seabits.com) [August 3, 2021 at 7:06 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3668) Phil, Can you explain. I want to go from NEMA 0183 RayMarine 6000 auto pilot to the PiCan M. Should it be Out+ Out- from the auto pilot to the In+ and Grnd? I’m trying to get GPS Output from the 0183 dongle on the USB RPi 4 to an Icom M506 with 0183 and 2000 connections. Any ideas and help would be greatly appreciated. Bram de Vries [November 24, 2020 at 11:32 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-27) Hi Steve, great article, thanks! I do wonder though if this won’t harm the NMEA2000 power supply, as I believe it is restricted to 1A per client, and a Raspberry Pi can draw up to 3A? Cheers, Bram - David de Regt [November 24, 2020 at 5:31 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-28) The Raspberry Pi specs are off the 5V line on the USB port, and it’s a 2.5A theoretical max draw through that. However, in reality, even when you’re doing video transcoding and melting the CPU and GPU on a Pi 4, it’s still been measured well under 1A. 1A @ 5V = \~.4A @ 12V. The max of 2.5A would be right around 1A @ 12V, if you could somehow add enough addon boards and such to use the entire spec, which would be the max 16 LEN or whatever it is on the N2k bus. - Bram de Vries [February 21, 2021 at 11:02 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-1728) Thanks for elaborating! ML\_C36 [December 16, 2020 at 3:45 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-14) I have purchased the Pican-M and followed their installation guide. Using the candump, I am able to see the data stream similar to what is shown in the guide. I am however not able to see the data within SignalK, what are the steps for setup within SignalK to recognize the data coming from the Pican? Note I have successfully been able to get the usb data from my Lobster fridge. jaymzru [January 17, 2021 at 7:47 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-635) I was just googling ways to connect a raspberry pi to nmea2k for my Beneteau sailboat, and this article is basically everything I was looking for! Thanks - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 23, 2021 at 12:52 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-656) Glad it’s helpful! I’m just finishing up an article on setting the whole thing up which I am publishing today. Javier [January 31, 2021 at 9:50 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-800) Can i use this setup to read the data of my analog sensors, fuel, etc., and export those reading on the nmea 2000 port to my garmin charploter??? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 31, 2021 at 10:40 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-811) You could potentially do this, but it would depend on the analog sensors. You’d have to connect the Raspberry Pi to the analog sensors with some sort of additional connector or device, figure out the analog to digital conversion, and then convert that using a plugin or custom software on the Raspberry Pi and use Signal K to put that data onto NMEA 2000\. It would be a decently technical project involving a few pieces. There are a number of NMEA 2000 sensor products that can adapt analog tank level sensors and such to NMEA 2000 native messages without using the Raspberry Pi that might be easier to get working in a shorter amount of time. It would really depend on the sensors and what they were. Peter Wadsworth [February 10, 2021 at 9:24 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-1186) Would there be any incompatibility with using a Navionics chart in this type of setup ? I know it would be more expensive, but where we live, the CPN charts are not as detailed as Navionics. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 10, 2021 at 9:45 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-1187) I’m not sure you could use Navionics here. This setup is mostly for building a server that runs open source software and connecting it to your network. Navionics is a commercial charting company, and I think they only sell their charts for devices like chart plotters, tablets and phones using their apps, etc. OpenCPN and OpenPlotter both have charts, but they don’t support Navionics either. You’d be stuck using open charts or other free sources. Hans Bratland [March 3, 2021 at 3:09 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-2124) Hi, Thanks for your article. Im looking into upgrading my system with a raspberry pi and openCPN, and wanted to ask something regarding this PICAN-M hat.. I have a daisy AIS reciever ([https://shop.wegmatt.com/collections/frontpage](https://shop.wegmatt.com/collections/frontpage?ref=seabits.com)) that outputs for NMEA0183\. Is it possible to connect this AIS device to NMEA0183 on the PICAN-M board, and from there send the signal out on the NMEA2000 network? So basically using the board as a bridge between the ais and the NMEA2000 network, and at the same time get the ais data on the pi? Thanks for any help 🙂 - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 3, 2021 at 3:46 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-2127) Hi Hans, What you’re proposing should be possible, although I have not tested it myself. You’ll need something like Signal K which would run on the Pi and receive the NMEA 0183 data and ingest it into Signal K. You’d need the Signal K to NMEA 2000 plugin which has support for AIS PGNs 129794, 129038, 129041\. This would take the data that Signal K consumes via NMEA 0183 and put it on NMEA 2000. [John Gallo](http://seabits/?ref=seabits.com) [April 9, 2021 at 3:16 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3487) Hi I read this and it was all Greek to me. I was wondering what classes I could take to get e up to speed. I am 72 and retired I feel left in the dust. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 29, 2021 at 9:56 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3656) This is a pretty technical article that folks with DIY experience are more likely to jump into. If you were interested in learning more about this type of computing, general Linux classes would likely be a good place to start. Jim [April 11, 2021 at 1:31 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3489) Thanks for a good post. I just resonantly bought my self a 3D printer, and as a first project I did a case for my CANPI + PI 3 B, see: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817180](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817180?ref=seabits.com) Jim [April 13, 2021 at 9:01 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3492) Hi I just recently bought a 3D printer, and one of the first project was a case to my RPI3 and PICAM-M card. More info can be found here: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817180](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4817180?ref=seabits.com) - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:39 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3623) Nice job! Christoph Ritzmann [April 18, 2021 at 1:39 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3498) Hi Steve While i was surfing the web, i have found these 2 links for the pican-m case: [https://buyzero.de/products/metal-case-for-pican-m-and-raspberry-pi-4](https://buyzero.de/products/metal-case-for-pican-m-and-raspberry-pi-4?ref=seabits.com) or [http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/metal-case-for-picanm-and-raspberry-pi-4-p-1594.html](http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/metal-case-for-picanm-and-raspberry-pi-4-p-1594.html?ref=seabits.com) Cheers! Christoph Wolfgang [April 21, 2021 at 11:27 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3499) Actually, you can purchase a case for the PICAN-M: [http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/metal-case-for-picanm-and-raspberry-pi-4-p-1594.html](http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/metal-case-for-picanm-and-raspberry-pi-4-p-1594.html?ref=seabits.com) - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 22, 2021 at 11:54 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3500) Yes, I saw that – it just came out recently. Thanks for posting it here! - Bill K [July 8, 2021 at 5:56 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3570) And it’s a pain in the arse getting the case assembled with the board and pi. It’s very odd how they’ve chosen to make the Pican bolt to the top of the case using stand-offs. The NMEA connector sticking out the side makes it impossible to put the Pican on the Pi first. I finally managed to slide the Pi up into the top of the case and get the GPIO header aligned ‘just right’ into the Pican. It’d have been a lot less tedious if they’d just left from openings in the side of the case to SEE where the GPIO pins line up. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 13, 2021 at 8:27 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3584) Which case are you using? There are a few of them now, and I think they’re getting better. - Bill K [July 15, 2021 at 11:01 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3593) The one CopperHill sells, the metal one. [https://copperhilltech.com/metal-enclosure-for-pican-m-and-raspberry-pi-4/](https://copperhilltech.com/metal-enclosure-for-pican-m-and-raspberry-pi-4/?ref=seabits.com) Their previous pi3 case for the non-N2K board was likewise lame as it required spreading the case enough to clear the connectors and latch, which leads to the plastic bending/cracking. Especially if you do it more than once. [https://copperhilltech.com/plastic-enclosure-for-pican2-and-raspberry-pi-2-3/](https://copperhilltech.com/plastic-enclosure-for-pican2-and-raspberry-pi-2-3/?ref=seabits.com) Once I stabilize how things are set up I may switch to something different. Colin [May 8, 2021 at 11:57 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3523) I have a boat with a Raymarine SeaTalk network. I have a ST60+ Graphic, which can convert SeaTalk to NMEA0183, so I’m trying to use this to interface to the Pican-M / Pi. I can see data coming over the line, but it’s just garbage – I’m not sure what’s meaning I’m not seeing the correct messages – any ideas? root@signalk:/home/pi# stty -F /dev/ttyS0 raw 4800 cs8 clocal root@signalk:/home/pi# cat /dev/ttyS0 ����З\[�����C����v��I\]-�k��������|��ߵѼ���\*�ُ����7��������5������- etc, etc. I see new data every 2 seconds which matches up with what the ST60+ is supposed to be outputting. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 12:29 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3608) Sorry for the late reply – some of the comments got flagged as spam incorrectly. Did you ever solve this? I might look at the baud rate or other settings around that to see if there is an issue. - Colin [July 19, 2021 at 4:12 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3628) Hi Steve – no problem thanks for the reply now though! No I didn’t solve it – I’d figured it would be baud rate, but whatever I tried didn’t make it any better (though it did result in a different version of garbage). I’ll have another go when I get a chance and see if anything jumps out… at the moment the leaking saildrive and the fridge that’s suddenly stopped working (after we’d just stocked the freezer compartment) is taking priority! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 25, 2021 at 10:56 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3642) Good luck! Sorry for all of the other boating challenges! - Colin [July 19, 2021 at 4:22 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3629) Not sure if I tried it at 38400 which I now see is the other NMEA0183 rate. Jim [June 10, 2021 at 4:07 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3552) Is there a way to power from the HAT when NMEA 2K power is available then switch to the 5V input if available (ie on shore power)? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 15, 2021 at 10:54 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3590) I don’t know of a way to do this without making modifications to the board itself. There are some alternative boards I am playing with that have slightly better power options – more on that soon. - Marcus Williford [August 26, 2021 at 11:51 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3690) I thought about this (just purchased this pican-m), here is an idea. Purchase a NMEA2000 isolator, and a NMEA 12V power T. Install the isolator and power T between the pi and the drop. You can then hook up this 12V power T to a more constant source of power, and you can shutdown the rest of your NMEA network without the PI missing a beat. I didn’t do this yet, but I consider it. I also consider doing this to power off a segment of my NMEA network to conserve power at anchor (i.e. turn off cockpit displays). Thoughts? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [August 27, 2021 at 9:46 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3693) My previous boat Grace had a multi-powered NMEA 2000 network () but I had some weird issues at some point. I can’t remember exactly what it was, but I do know it is possible to have different parts powered and unpowered technically. It’s a good idea to potentially use this method to keep the Pi running. - Bill K [July 16, 2021 at 9:14 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3600) The ‘switch’ part is the tricky bit. The Pi is basically a linux computer and, as such, has to depend on having reliable file system for all of it’s software. It does not take well to stop/starting the operating system without a clean shutdown. That or extra configuration steps to assure the SD card is set up as largely ‘read only’ to reduce corruption issues. Most inexpensive SD cards to notoriously unreliable when it comes to being used for generic disk I/O purposes. My point is switching power within the pi during this process is probably a bad plan. It’s probably better to have the power supplied consistently external to the Pi, and switched there instead. There are various UPS and UPS-like power managers for the Pi. The ‘car-puter’ tinkering efforts have a number of options to consider on that front. Doing clean startup/shutdown based on ignition key actions, for example. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 8:45 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3602) There is an alternate version of this hardware that I am testing that has a supercapacitor on the board. The purpose is so that if it detects a loss of power from the NMEA 2000 bus, or alternate power sources, it does an orderly shutdown of the Pi using the power remaining in the supercapacitor and safely stops the computer. Pretty neat idea – hoping to have an article published on it soon. - Bill K [July 17, 2021 at 9:08 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3603) Car Dashcams have been using super-caps for a while now. I have one in my Cayenne. Automagically shuts the camera down cleanly when DC power is removed. Haven’t have an SD card get corrupted for several years now (I rotate the out monthly but they’re all still working ok). - Gary [July 29, 2021 at 3:36 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3651) Would that be the Sailor Hat you’re talking about? I’ve read about it and have been trying to find some comparative info between it and the Pican-M, but no luck so far.. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 29, 2021 at 9:53 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3653) That’s correct. I have both, and there are a lot of benefits with the Sailor Hat on the power and NMEA 2000 bus side of things. Perhaps after I write about the Sailor Hat itself, a comparison is in order… Bill K [July 8, 2021 at 6:06 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3571) I generally dislike using ‘canned’ images for microSD cards. You never know what compromises were made to set it up. I greatly prefer being able to do installs from scratch (though I’m not so gung-ho as to insist they be compiled from source). It’s bad enough dealing with package manager issues, it almost NEVER gets better starting from someone else’s unknown ‘assumptions’. Thus ‘from scratch’ is preferable. In the limited time I was futzing with this last weekend I couldn’t find a clear set of instructions on what pieces are actually in an ‘openPlotter’ image and how to recreate it on an existing install. I don’t need to wander down the road of building a whole image, just the various installed pieces to get the same set of things running on an existing image. Why? Well, beyond questions about known/unknown image choices, there are other things already running on this pi4 that I’d rather not have to backup/reinstall on a different OS image. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 13, 2021 at 8:27 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3583) I am not a fan of OpenPlotter and other distributions like that for the same reason. I started in Linux/UNIX long ago where building it from a base OS was required, and although I am not one to want to spend tons of time just installing packages, I don’t like trusting distributions or packaged solutions that have things I don’t need. Not only does that mean I have to burn my precious LTE data upgrading and updating packages that I won’t use, but there are security concerns with whatever has been installed and configured – did they do it right? Have they secured everything correctly? In addition, a lot of these distributions have a whole windowing interface installed which is a huge CPU suck. In some cases, I’ve seen it consume 75% of the CPU before doing anything at all with the install! I prefer starting with RPi server image, which is super basic, and building on that myself. Bill K [July 14, 2021 at 5:08 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3587) I also made the mistake of ordering the one that CAN power itself from the n2K bus. I meant to get one that did not. As I want to be able to power cycle the system externally, but don’t want to also power off the n2k bus. That and I don’t want the added drain on the n2k bus to power it. I’m told that desoldering the small green power supply board on the pican-m will accomplish that. Though I don’t know if that also means I have to use the 12vdc pads on the board. - Bill K [July 25, 2021 at 6:17 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3638) An update, I succeeded in keeping the PICAN-M board from using the N2K bus 12vdc power with the use of an N2K power isolator. I put that in-line from the N2K bus on the drop cable. The PICAN-M gets it’s power through the pi4 GPIO connection. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ABI6BF4](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ABI6BF4?ref=seabits.com) So now I don’t have to de-solder the add-on power supply board, and control the power to whole setup using the power to the pi4 itself. Which I have going in to the USB-C connection on the pi4, using a 12vdc buck converter from 12vdc. What I have not yet tried is a direct connection of 12vdc to the solder pads on the PICAN-M board. I don’t know if it will accept the 11-15vdc range typically seen on the DC rail, or if it’s picky and wants actual 12vdc only. Bill K [July 14, 2021 at 5:13 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3588) Upside is I did managed to get various pieces working and could see all the active data on the bus. I have several devices that provide the same sentences (gps from a puck and a sat compass, along with that and heading, pitch and other info overlapping from an airmar weather unit. Their instances are set uniquely but it wasn’t immediately clear how to select the various sources. But I’ll tinker with that another time. Though now that I have more than one thing that can consume AIS it looks like I’ll have to get that put onto the n2k bus. Right now it’s from a Furuno FA-50 via ethernet to the TZT3 units, and 0183 to the old NN3D MFD12 plotters. I’ve got a Yacht Devices router and will probably use that. As I’m interested in keeping a PC out of the message-passing part of the equation, for now. Dedicated, lower-power devices seem to handle this sort of thing better, with less fuss over time. Adrian [July 26, 2021 at 2:24 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3643) Hi! Thanks for a great post! I am myself trying to set up a navigation computer with a PI where I want to plug in an AIS (em-trak). Doing it with a PICAN-M HAT looks like it would do the job! I just wonder (I am very much a novice with both Raspberry Pi and OpenCPN), do you install the “regular” Pi first, and set it up with OpenCPN/OpenPlotter, and when you’ve got that up and running, add the PICAN-M? Or do you do the configuration with everything from start? I also wonder about the power supply from the HAT. Does it power the PI automatically when connected to NMEA or is that something that has to be configured? Many thanks from Sweden! Adrian - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 28, 2021 at 10:06 am](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3649) Hi Adrian, I would have the PICAN-M installed before doing any operating system installation. You could add it afterwards, but that would require messing around with the hardware twice, so why not just do it all at the beginning. Yes, the PICAN powers the Pi if it is connected to a NMEA 2000 bus. You can also power it other ways. No configuration is required in software, if that’s what you’re asking. Gary [July 29, 2021 at 3:48 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3652) I already have a RPI4 installed on my boat with a 5V 5A buck converter connected to OpenPlotter. Does it make sense for me to get the Pican-M without the SMPS? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 29, 2021 at 9:54 pm](https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-powered-raspberry-pi/#comment-3654) I think having power via the traditional method vs. pulling it off of NMEA 2000 would be a better choice longer term. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 17 comments Steve Mitchell@steve October 06, 2021 I am currently testing an alternative to the PICAN-M from Hat Labs and hope to have some results in the next month or two. The name of the product is the Sailor Hat for Raspberry Pi and is available at [https://hatlabs.fi/product-category/sh-rpi/sh-rpi-devices](https://hatlabs.fi/product-category/sh-rpi/sh-rpi-devices?ref=seabits.com) Bruce McGaughey@brucemac November 26, 2021 Do you think that I could run this PICAN-M / Pi Solution off of the back of a Fusion Entertainment MS-RA70NSX head unit, which has NMEA2K on the back for their NMEA remotes? The goals here would be to offer up an elegant media server solution, improve overall audio quality (versus Bluetooth) with the Pi and potentially a USB-powered DAC. It should work in theory, right? Am I missing something? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #4 November 27, 2021 That could potentially work. The only things I would be concerned about is power and termination. Most Fusion head units will power a NMEA 2000 network, while some require a special cable. You’ll have to figure out which one your model is. Once you have the power side of things, then you’ll still need to terminate it on both “ends” so you will have to have a couple of tees at least along with the terminators. I don’t think you’ll have reliable results by just plugging the PICAN directly into the head unit without that. Rich@h\_copter December 03, 2021 Really interesting post. Apologies for newbie question, but if you can point me in the right direction then I’ll do my homework so hopefully future questions will be more intelligent! I have a Raymarine setup which runs SeaTalk NG. I would like to achieve the following: - be able to deliver course-adjust instructions to the autohelm (SPX10 Course Computer). I would enter these using 4 Momentary Push On switches: +/- 1deg to port/starboard & +/-10deg to port/starboard I’m picturing a switch panel connected to the Pi, and the Pi then connected to the SeaTalk NG circuit. Is this a feasible goal? What kit do I need? Many thanks, Rich Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #6 December 03, 2021 My first reaction would be whether there is a Raymarine remote that you might be able to add that would be marine grade, already tested for this sort of use, and more likely to work However, I don’t see why you couldn’t use a Raspberry Pi + SignalK to do some of this. The easiest way, and it would require a decent amount of technical ability still, would be to connect the switches to the Pi, and then use something like NodeRED + SignalK to watch those inputs and send the autopilot change messages out. Depending on those messages, you might be able to use some of the existing plugins in SignalK that do Raymarine autopilot stuff, or you might have to write your own. Ivan@Ivan December 11, 2021 Sorry for the newbie question, but I just picked up a new boat, and wanted to play with some stuff like this. What I was hoping to do was get this Pi hardware to put on the NMEA2000 bus and then be able to access this information from maybe a webpage I put together being hosted by the Pi? I was thinking that way I can dedicate an e-ink tablet or Kindle paperwhite (waterproof and can view in direct sunlight) on my boat dashboard. I would like to see speed, RPM, fuel levels but also some details outside the network like Time, Time to sunset, some sensors I plan to add to the Pi. The existing tablet on the dash can’t be seen in the sun as it’s just not bright enough. The problem is the app for the existing NMEA transmitter is only for Android tablets and does not have all the data I would like to see. [![IMG_2641](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/0e4e86c17cd7e86b106e408bb00987f5d2d110cf.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/0e4e86c17cd7e86b106e408bb00987f5d2d110cf.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "IMG_2641") Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #8 December 11, 2021 Hi [@Ivan](https://seabits.com/u/ivan) Your concept seems reasonable enough. What I would want to do first is to verify that the information you want to display is indeed on the NMEA 2000 network and that it is in a format that can be interpreted. In some cases, manufacturers will use proprietary busses to transmit their information. In other cases, they’ll use NMEA 2000 but still use proprietary messages that can sometimes be hard to decode. The easiest way to do this would be to grab a Pi and stick it on the bus and see what is there. Pretty low investment cost, and if for some reason you needed to do some software development or create a SignalK plugin for your engines or the data, you could start there. Ivan@Ivan↩ #9 December 11, 2021 Thanks. Yeah, I have a couple Pi 3Bs laying around here, and a zero W sitting here too. I figured I would pick up that CAN + PS top hat for the 3B and give it a go. Since the data feeding the tablet app via wifi is [This device](https://www.hodgesmarine.com/farktf068-faria-nmea-2000-entelnettrade-module-wnmea-20.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAtdGNBhAmEiwAWxGcUl2kIVc8QDoCGu2vTni3OP0z2JFNmr4gvBYghrsyKp22u3nh3HyLKhoC-x0QAvD%5FBwE&ref=seabits.com) which just sits on the CAN bus, (and that info is also available on the CAN Open dial LCD display) I think getting the data into the raspberry pi should be possible. I just am not very experienced with raspberry pi yet. I first was looking at an e-ink android tablet to load this existing wifi tablet app, but I kind of want more data and using a Pi might be a good interface that would allow more expansion into the future. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #10 December 11, 2021 I would definitely check out SignalK and even Scott Bender’s excellent app WilhelmSK. The latter requires iOS, but I use it in tons of places and really like the reliability and marine related features. Even without that, the instrument panel plugin app for SignalK, which it comes with by default, displays any sort of data and gauge on a webpage, and likely would be a good starting point for the data. Brad T@68Twin February 27, 2023 Sorry to bump an old topic, but I’m embarking on something like this for my RV. As such, I’m pretty unfamiliar with the ins and outs of NMEA 2000 and what it is capable of over an RPi. The question I have is whether two RPi units both running Signal-K, but where only one is connected to an NMEA 2000 device can pass data back and forth, wirelessly. My use case is pretty simple: - **VenusOS** running on an RPi 3B, - **Plex** on an RPi 3A connected to an NMEA 2000 enabled JL Audio Media Master head unit - **Signal-K Server** running on an RPi 4B at the other end of the RV where the tank sensors are located I want to monitor and control everything via Signal-K and WilhelmSK. Can the RPi units transmit data and control signals wirelessly? Or do the two Signal-K RPi units need to be physically connected to the NMEA 2000 network (assuming they can be powered independently). Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 February 28, 2023 I think I’d need a little clarification before being able to say yes or no. I assume the VenusOS will be running one copy of Signal K. Is it connected to Victron stuff? No NMEA 2000? Some Victron stuff does leverage NMEA 2000, so you may end up having it already there… Is the Plex server the only device on NMEA 2000? What else do you want to control on NMEA 2000? For that matter, what all do you want to control in general? Signal K can talk to other Signal K servers over WiFi/ethernet/network and you can share between them, but when you get to controlling things, it would depend on what is connected to what where, and what sort of controls you’re looking to leverage. Brad T@68Twin↩ #13 February 28, 2023 steve: > I assume the VenusOS will be running one copy of Signal K. Is it connected to Victron stuff? Yes. One RPi will be in the forward section of the RV near the batteries and chargers running VenusOS Large which includes an optional Signal-K and Node Red server built in to the OS. The connections will be through USB-VE.Direct cables. steve: > No NMEA 2000? Some Victron stuff does leverage NMEA 2000, so you may end up having it already there… The only devices in the RV that support NMEA will be a soon-to-be-purchased SeeLevel NK2 tank monitor and a JL Audio Media Master head unit (stereo). I may eventually upgrade the charging and inverter system which may eventually have NMEA capabilities but for now, it’s just these units. My plan was to employ PiCAN-M HATs on the RPi devices. steve: > Is the Plex server the only device on NMEA 2000? > What else do you want to control on NMEA 2000? > For that matter, what all do you want to control in general? The Plex server will be in the aft section of the RV sitting next to the head unit so would be ideal to control the head unit via its NMEA 2000 port. The tank monitors are squarely on the middle of the RV and relatively difficult to reach. I just need to read them. Long term plans may include fan controls, lights, and inverter controls. The inverter installed currently supports RV-C but the support for that protocol isn’t as robust it seems. I’m not sure I can run both RV-C and NMEA devices - the USB adapters seem to be insanely priced as well. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 March 15, 2023 I think what would help here would be a high level diagram on how you would like to see them connected, and what each is connected to medium-wise to understand how you’d like them to work. In theory, you could have Signal K instances connected via direct connections to some of these, plus VenusOS of course, and have Signal K share info back and forth over a WiFi network. Where you will run into limitations is what you want to control from where. In some cases, Signal K could share the info between instances, but actual control logic might require a new plugin, or some sort of functionality that doesn’t exist yet. That diagram could help us understand more about those relationships, and where you would want to control what. Lawrence@lcoffin September 13, 2023 Just thought I’d mention that while your article extensively says that the board will power itself and the PI from the NMEA 2000 line, you actually link to the version of the PICAN-M board that does *not* provide that functionality. You might want to update your links to point to the correct version (or make it clear that there are two versions of the board) so folks don’t order the wrong one, thinking it’s the one you are describing in your article. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #16 September 14, 2023 Hmmmm… when I click on the link I end up on the board that indicates it provides power to both: This board includes a 3A SMPS. The 12v is from the Micro-C network can be use to power the PiCAN-M and the Raspberry Pi. The URL that I end up on is below: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/b74978df1a3b274edfa9bfa7a65495f54745456e.gif) [SK Pang Electronics Ltd](https://www.skpang.co.uk/collections/hats/products/pican-m-with-can-bus-micro-c-and-rs422-connector-3a-smps?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/b842efdf0b9ac7fe3a167bdc1dd9fa1767f31fde.jpeg) ### [PiCAN-M with CAN-Bus Micro-C and RS422 Connector + 3A SMPS](https://www.skpang.co.uk/collections/hats/products/pican-m-with-can-bus-micro-c-and-rs422-connector-3a-smps?ref=seabits.com) NMEA 2000 This is a PiCAN-M with RS422 and Micro-C connector. The RS422 is via a 5 way screw terminal. The CAN-Bus connection is via Micro-C connector. This board includes a 3A SMPS. The 12v is from the Micro-C network can be use to power the PiCAN-M... It does look like they’ve changed their links from the original article almost 3 years ago, but it redirects to that link above. Lawrence@lcoffin September 14, 2023 Looks like it’s just the second one – in the “Cost & Conclusion” section at the end. I did speak with someone at Copperhill Tech and they sent a link to the SMPS that you can buy separately for not much more than the difference of the PiCAN-M and PiCAN-M-SMPS: [Pololu - 5V, 3.2A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D36V28F5](https://www.pololu.com/product/3782?ref=seabits.com) Lawrence@lcoffin September 14, 2023 Actually, it’s also the link on “I ordered one from Copperhill Technologies” at the top as well (under the “An easier way….” section). Maybe Copperhill changed it to the non-powered version and added the powered version separately… ### Poynting OMNI-496 WiFi antenna URL: https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-496-wifi/ Last updated: 2022-03-10T06:53:40.000Z I’ve been searching for a long time for a dual-band, high performance, marine-grade WiFi antenna that I could use for grabbing remote WiFi signals while on the boat. The [Poynting OMNI-496](https://poynting.tech/antennas/omni-496/?ref=seabits.com) has proven to be a great performer for this exact purpose. If you want to see where I used these in my full internet setup for 2020, check out the article below. [Rendezvous Internet Setup for 2020This is my Peplink and Poynting based internet system for 2020 aboard Rendezvous using LTE and WiFi sources, and marine grade components…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Dashboard1.png)](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/) While I generally use LTE to stay connected on the water, I still prefer when at anchor or in a marina to use a local WiFi network if it is available. This saves using precious LTE data, and it can have lower latency which is better for video calls and many other things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-leds-ethernet-scaled-1024x768.jpg) My go-to solution for the last few years has been a [MikroTik Groove](https://amzn.to/3mPhn5B?ref=seabits.com), which is essentially a small outdoor router with an antenna, connected to an indoor router via an ethernet cable. This has been an excellent way to grab remote WiFi signals, but the MikroTik operating system, RouterOS, is very hard to use. In addition, I could only use one frequency at a time without adding a second Groove, which would require more ports on my main router or a switch. It also wasn’t integrated with the Peplink MAX Transit I was using, which caused some interesting catch 22 situations where configuring it required some workarounds when a WiFi network wasn’t connected. [MikroTik Groove step-by-step setup guideSetting up the MikroTik Groove to boost WiFi on your boat can be daunting. With a few quick steps you can get the Groove up and running quickly on your network.![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/MikroTik-closeup.jpg)](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/) Recently, there also have been more reports of the Groove not working with various WiFi networks, but I have not been able to trace down the full reason why. I’ve had several incidents where all sorts of other devices could connect, but the Groove refused to. Several other readers have reported this as well. That's made it less of a good choice when trying to connect to marina WiFi signals. I had used several other WiFi antennas in various installs both on my own boats and others including some from Comrod and Altelix, but they were all single band, and almost all of them were 2.4Ghz. In fact, I only found one manufacturer of an outdoor 5Ghz WiFi antenna that was even close to marine grade and decent performance. There are plenty of multi-element antenna choices from MobileMark, Poynting, and others, but I have never seen great performance from those solutions with boats. These antennas typically are called “pucks” and are very small, and usually used on vehicles in urban areas. The size of the elements and antennas just don’t seem to perform as well as a larger antenna when you’re looking for a quality signal in marginal areas, and they also seem to be a lot more directional than they should be. ## Unboxing ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Poynting-OMNI-496-boxes.jpeg) I purchased two OMNI-496's so that I could connect one to each port of a Peplink MAX Transit and a Peplink MAX HD4 MBX. This would allow me to use them to simultaneously grab 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz WiFi signals, or I could also broadcast my WiFi network outdoors on both bands. I also used them standalone with the MikroTik Groove and some other random products. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Poynting-OMNI-496-box.jpeg) As with the other Poynting antennas I've had, this model comes packed in a box with proper protection, mounting options, manual, and the like. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Poynting-OMNI-496-contents-1.jpeg) You will need to provide a cable to connect to the antenna, and either a pole to mount it to with the included hardware, or a marine mount. ## Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Poynting-OMNI-496-mount-connector-detail.jpeg) One of the reasons I love Poynting antennas is their well thought out marine mount. For the 496, you have the piece on the right which will screw onto a standard 1-1/4″ marine mount. Then, you can feed the cable up through it, attach that to the antenna, and using the rubber washer in the middle, screw up into the bottom of the antenna to firmly attach it in a waterproof manner. Their LTE antennas have the same mounting setup. This prevents you from having to rotate an antenna with a cable connected to it, or some other nonsense that invariably puts strain on the cable, or worse. I used LMR-400 UltraFlex cables from ShowMeCables with an [N male end for the antenna, and an RP-SMA end for the Peplink side](https://www.showmecables.com/by-category/cables/wifi-microwave/low-loss-400/n-male-to-reverse-polarity-sma-male-low-loss-400-ultraflex-coaxial-assembly?ref=seabits.com). I also had standard N male to N male and female cables while testing with the MikroTik Groove. [Poynting OMNI LTE antennasm always on the lookout for new LTE antennas that could help improve my signal while on the water. Poynting has a couple of interesting marine antennas…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Poynting-antennas-1.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Rendezvous-arch-detail.jpeg) Rendezvous arch down for maintenance and install of the OMNI-496 The arch on Rendezvous tips down, originally to allow the boat into a covered slip, but it comes in handy when needing to access all of my antennas. I chose to mount the OMNI-496's on either side of the radar nearer the center of the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Rendezvous-arch-labeled.jpeg) Rendezvous antenna farm Here are all of the antennas on the arch labeled so you can see what's what. ## Performance ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Dashboard1.png) Above in the WAN Connection Status you can see the dual OMNI-496's in use as WiFi as WAN with both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands. I was in Blind Bay near Lopez Island in the San Juan Islands, and somewhere on shore in the bay there was an open public WiFi network. You'll also notice that under Wi-Fi AP that I have the local AP off on the MAX Transit. That increases the performance of the WiFi radios being used for WiFi for WAN. When I am not connected to a WiFi source, I often turn this on so that my local WiFi network is being broadcast around the boat, and the WiFi range outside the boat is pretty impressive. I've been on shore while anchored and been able to still use my WiFi network over 1000′ away. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/2Ghz-wifi.png) 2.4/5Ghz WiFi networks The most surprising thing is the performance with 5Ghz networks. Traditionally with the MikroTik, I would get OK performance from a 5Ghz network if I were in a marina and not moving much. 5Ghz is really important when you're in a marina – I even wrote a whole article on it that has been a popular one – link below. [Marina WiFi is hardRecently I had the chance to spend a few weeks working on a local marina WiFi system. The biggest issue was the perception of the boaters throughout the marina, and the need to invest in equipment to…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/2Ghz-Wifi-Spectrum.png)](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) Not only did the OMNI-496 give better performance in a marina, but I was seeing and retaining connections to 5Ghz networks while at anchor, rotating around and moving far more than in a marina. That is pretty impressive. ## Conclusions Overall, I am very pleased with the OMNI-496 antenna, in particular, in using it to grab remote WiFi signals with a Peplink product that supports WiFi as WAN. I've used these antennas with 3 different Peplink products and several other products as well. In all cases, the antennas have performed well in acquiring remote WiFi signals and staying connected while the boat moves and rotates at anchor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Peplink-Dashboard.png) Compared to the MikroTik Groove, it is pretty close to the same performance as long as you use a short, high quality cable. Longer cables will reduce the effectiveness. The other big difference is being able to use easier to use software/hardware than the MikroTik Groove, such as Peplink, and manage it all from a single dashboard, which is worth quite a lot in terms of ease of use. Both 2.4 and 5Ghz performance are excellent. If you are looking for a marine-grade outdoor WiFi antenna, I can't recommend the Poynting OMNI-496 enough. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Dan Barthel [January 14, 2021 at 5:12 pm](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-496-wifi/#comment-636) Steve, have you tried using this antenna with the Mikrotik Grove? If so, is it worth the extra money? I’m trying to do a KISS installation. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 23, 2021 at 12:51 pm](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-496-wifi/#comment-655) I have actually used it with the MikroTik and it makes a difference over the standard one that comes with it. Is it worth the price? Depends on how important remote WiFi signals are for you, but it seems pretty reasonable to me overall. Andrew [January 29, 2021 at 6:10 pm](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-496-wifi/#comment-755) Hi Steve. Sorry for the dumb questions. But this is just an antenna right? There is no software etc it’s running? Is it just a case of mounting it and connecting to a router antenna and running it in a bridge mode? I ask as the Microtik is a complete beast of a devixe that does the bridging as well. With this you need that extra bit if kit correct? Thanks Andrew - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 29, 2021 at 8:59 pm](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-496-wifi/#comment-758) Hi Andrew, It definitely is just an antenna, no electronics inside of it. I use the OMNI-496 (two of them actually) connected to my Peplink router which has two “WiFi as WAN” ports which are essentially just a WiFi bridge. The MikroTik is the same thing, and you could connect this antenna to it instead of the included one. Not sure what you’re asking about in terms of needing a bit of extra kit? In terms of using the MikroTik, I would connect the antenna directly, and not use a cable. Every connector and foot of cable cause loss, and the amount these antennas increase the signal are only in the 5-6dB range maximum, in a perfect world. If you run a cable, especially on a boat with interference and electrical cables around it, longer than 10-15 feet, you could be in a situation where the antenna actually has little to no benefit. Further than 20 feet, and it might actually be worse than not using it at all. I’ve used the 496 with Peplink, MikroTik, and a few other router brands too, and it performs very well. - Gregory SMITH [May 28, 2021 at 9:58 am](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-496-wifi/#comment-3545) Hi Steve, I need to get better WiFi from my marina as I will be working on board for the summer. What setup do you recommend I go with for this purpose? I have looked at wave, galaxy. Mikitec just not sure what to go with. Thanks - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 15, 2021 at 10:58 am](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-496-wifi/#comment-3591) Hi Gregory, It would really depend on what equipment you have already, and if the marina WiFi is good enough. Many marinas have pretty terrible WiFi – I’m actually at one now working on it. You can read why in an article I published a few years ago: The cheapest and one of the most powerful is the MikroTik Groove, but it is pretty hard to setup and use. You’ll also still need either an ethernet port on your computer to connect it to, or a router to plug it in to as well. ### Furuno SCX-20 Satellite Compass URL: https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T16:19:07.000Z I’ve been using the new Furuno SCX-20 Satellite Compass for about a month, and I’m really impressed. For just under $1000, you get a super accurate GPS, compass, roll/pitch/yaw, and all in a tiny package. Combine it with a Furuno DRS-series radar, and you have an amazing setup. ## Overview You can read all of the details on [Furuno’s site](https://www.furuno.com/en/products/compass/SCX-20?ref=seabits.com), but the high level important things the SCX-20 provides are: - 4x highly accurate GPS antennas - Heading / compass - Roll, pitch and heave - Can be obscured or blocked at certain angles - Comes in NMEA 2000 (SCX-20) and NMEA 0183 (SCX-21) versions - Multiple mounting options available ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-side-desk.jpeg) The entire unit is about the size of a dinner plate. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-bottom-scaled-768x1024.jpg) The top half is the compass itself, and it sits in a mounting base. You can also get a pole mount and other mounting types, but I opted for the default mounting. The bottom of this part has an info sticker, an arrow showing which way to orient the compass, the NMEA 2000 connector and connection points for the screws that attach it to the mounting base. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-mounting-base.jpeg) The mounting base itself has matching holes for the screws to hold the compass in the base, a hole for the NMEA 2000 cable, vents for heat dissipation, and markings to show which way things should be oriented. ## Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-install-base-with-washer.jpeg) I chose to install the SCX-20 on my arch, offset slightly to the starboard side given everything else that was up there and in the way. I have a nice [Seaview radar tower](https://seabits.com/seaview-more-than-mounts/) and a bunch of LTE antennas that I couldn’t move, but according to the instructions, it shouldn’t matter – you can calibrate the compass for offsets of centerline, as well as fine tune adjustments on roll, pitch, etc. There are detailed instructions on how to install the unit with the default mounting hardware. I chose the least intrusive, which requires 4 screws to mount the base, and a moderate sized hole for the NMEA 2000 cable. This allows me to mount it from the top of the arch without having to have a lot of access from below, other than the NMEA 2000 cable. There is an option to mount it from below, but it requires more access, which I did not have in my arch. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-install-cable-testing-1024x577.jpeg) It was super bright out while I was installing things, so the pictures didn’t turn out as well as I’d hoped… What you can see above is the NMEA 2000 cable and rubber washer that goes between the bottom of the mounting bracket and the surface you’re mounting it on. I added a piece of starboard in my installation because the surface underneath had holes from previous old devices that I removed, and I wanted a water-tight seal around everything. One thing to note – do not try to use a 90 degree NMEA 2000 cable for the default installation. I pulled one through a rather long run, expecting it to be easier to get into the compass. Unfortunately the length of the connector wasn’t long enough, which meant I had to re-run a new cable. There is an optional 90 degree NMEA 2000 cable that you can order specifically for this installation, and I suspect it has a longer barrel. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-install-washer-1024x576.jpeg) This is the rubber washer that goes between the bottom of the mounting bracket and the surface you’re mounting it to. The smaller inner part goes down the hole that you make for the NMEA 2000 cable. Sealant goes on very specific parts of this washer to ensure no water gets into the space below – make sure you follow the exact instructions though – there are some parts you do not want to seal to allow for maintenance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-install-compass-connection.jpeg) There’s also a smaller rubber washer that goes between the top half of the compass, and the mounting bracket. You can just barely see it around the NMEA 2000 connector. You can also see the three screws that I’ve installed to hold the compass to the mounting bracket. You’ll also notice the vent holes around the compass – the instructions are very clear that you should not block these. The entire mounting base is open to the elements, and the rubber washers ensure that the NMEA 2000 connection is water tight, if done correctly. The air and water will flow around the bottom of the compass, presumably giving it proper cooling. There are also very clear instructions on what to use sealant on, and what to not block. The compass comes with a tube of sealant that you can use for the installation. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-install-base-mounted-1024x576.jpeg) One of the benefits of the SCX-20 is that it can be obscured by antennas and other things and still work extremely well. Here you can see a shadow from one of my LTE or WiFi antennas crossing the mounting location. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-installed.jpeg) Here’s the unit completely installed (without the sealant cleaned up, I know!) and ready for action. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-installed-2.jpeg) Other than fiddling around with the washers and getting the orientation as square and pointed towards the bow as possible, it was a pretty straightforwards and easy install. Furuno always provides really clear, detailed instructions on everything you need to know. ## Configuration There are a number of ways you can setup and configure the SCX-20, such as a TZT2/3 chart plotter, or a much cheaper FI-70, NavPilot, or even a PC with a connection to the NMEA 2000 network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-setup-TZT-1024x768.jpeg) I used my TZT2 12″ chart plotter for the initial setup. You have to provide offsets and locations as to where the compass is in relation to the rest of the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-setup-TZT-PGNs-1024x768.jpeg) You can adjust lots of other settings such as the frequency at which the NMEA 2000 messages get sent out, GNSS settings, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-setup-FI-70.jpeg) Here I’m using my [NavPilot 300](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) to configure the compass, and while a smaller screen, it gives you access to all of the same settings. I’ve actually used this to adjust things over the last month more than the TZT2. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-setup-FI-70-2.jpeg) One thing you have to spend some time tuning is any offsets or corrections based on where the unit is mounted. I thought my arch was almost perfectly flat, but it actually curves just a little bit, which I noticed during install. Once I was done with the install, I filled up all my fuel and water tanks, and stood in the middle of the boat. I was tied up at a dock on a calm day, and saw that in particular, the unit was off to the starboard by about 2.7 degrees. I used another instrument that showed roll & pitch in real time and changed the settings here for the SCX-20 until the other instruments showed zeros on both values. ## Results ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/Furuno-SCX-20-satellite-compass-accuracy-TimeZero-Pro.jpeg) I can say beyond a doubt that this is the best GPS and compass I’ve ever had aboard a boat. On this boat alone, I had four other decent compasses and GPS, including the excellent PG-700 compass from Furuno, and the Airmar WX220 GPS+compass+wind instrument. The SCX-20 has been more accurate as both a compass and GPS than any of those, and that makes sense – it has more GPS receivers, software inside of it to combine them all and give out the best results. The compass along with the roll and pitch have also been flawless, even more accurate than the PG-700, and it was mounted low in the centerline of the boat. That still is somewhat amazing to me given that the SCX-20 is mounted at the highest point on the boat, yet it still has rock solid results. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/TZ-pro-normal-1024x555.png) The biggest benefit of the SCX-20 has been to my Furuno DRS4D-NXT radar. Two things were readily apparent right away in terms of improvements. First, the shoreline was rock-solid on with the charts. In the past, you could see various shore elements shift a bit as the boat was moving, and if you had trails on, it became somewhat cluttered and busy. With the SCX, that is completely gone, and in an overlay situation like above, you can clearly see the shoreline and other elements right exactly where they should be. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/TZ-Pro-radar-wasp-passage-1-1024x555.png) Second, and more importantly, targets are tracked very consistently and show up without variations or wiggles, which I saw frequently before. In the example above, you can see two targets with trails turned on, and how consistent and straight the trails are. This is a craggy, rocky, narrow passage through the Wasp Islands in the San Juan Islands, and the shoreline did not get blurry or messy while I was moving and turning, and the targets were very clear. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/TZT2-radar-exiting-wasps-2-1024x640.png) Here’s another example where I have been turning, changing speeds, and coming out of the passage, and the SCX + the DRS radar result in a very consistent target trail. This has allowed me to turn my trail length up from 1 minute to 3+ minutes. Normally, I’d have to have it at 1 minute because things got so cluttered, especially in busy locations, that it was too confusing to have that long of a trail on the screen. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/09/TZ-Pro-radar-San-Juan-channel-3-1024x555.png) Here’s a final example showing longer trails for boats coming towards me and going away, some even on the right hand radar image that aren’t shown on the chart image, and really consistent trails and shorelines. The boat coming towards me even deviated their course to avoid a collision, and you can see that in the trail. ## Conclusions With a price under $1000, there is no reason that every boat shouldn’t have a satellite compass. They used to be prohibitively expensive for most of us, require other equipment that was also expensive, and have restrictions on mounting and shading. The SCX-20 seems to have overcome all of those barriers, is in a compact, easy to mount package, and can be configured and setup a number of ways. The accuracy is what is absolutely amazing. Roll and pitch are spot-on, and the compass and heading data are so good that it helps radar images and other aspects. Add in the fact that you have 4x GPS sources that are constantly being double checked against each other, and you have a hyper accurate GPS source as well. If you happen to have a more modern Furuno radar, you really should have an SCX. It improves the quality of the data so much both for shoreline and targets that it is highly worth the investment just for that alone. I’m very pleased with the SCX-20 and would recommend it to anyone looking for a good GPS / satellite compass without reservations. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. David Geller [September 27, 2020 at 3:24 am](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-61) This is, without a doubt, the most expensive blog I regularly read. 🙂 [Christopher](http://www.el-marine.com/?ref=seabits.com) [September 27, 2020 at 8:30 am](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-60) I confirm what Steve wrote, I have been using the SCX20 since May in the same configuration with the TZ and DRS4D-NXT plus the Garmin 8400 series with the Reactor 40\. Everything works very well. Andre [September 27, 2020 at 11:05 am](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-58) hello Steve, Very interesting article on the SCX-20\. I have an all Furuno installation on my sailboat albeit Navnet 3D 2009 generation with 2 MFD, Fax30, Hub, DRS4D and of course PG700 and Navpilot 711. The Navpilot has been incredible has too be able to work inside of my steel boat (in the center) altough the deck is SS. Just wonder if you have discovered any difference while using the autopilot with the SCX-20, do you get a different behavior in the wave anticipation algorithm or position correction or do you fell the PG700 is enough for this task. Understand that for the real time radar overlay its a plus ! Alan Howell [September 27, 2020 at 3:39 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-57) Really interesting read. I have not seem some of the same smearing with our BAndG system that’s you describe here. I am trying to understand if there is a significant benefit here for us on our Beneteau Sense 51. Alan Howell [September 27, 2020 at 4:16 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-54) Do you know if the unit has accelerometers or an IMU? Most are not aware that however precise a GPS is, it simply has REALLY accurate position as a stand alone sensor. It can calculate COG and speed but like any GPS it does so with less accuracy at very slow speeds like on a sailboat. I am guessing that it has a flux compass and at least accelerometers since it can provide heading and three axis motion. If it has MEMS like accelerometers and IMUs then you really do have the best of the inertial world combined with the position accuracy do a GPS that can receive and process data from every satellite in the visible sky simultaneously. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 27, 2020 at 4:28 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-56) I believe it is all off of the GPS sensors. There are 4 GNSS antennas and it uses all of those to calculate 6 baselines. The claimed accuracy, and I am pretty sure this is what I am seeing, is 1.0 degree heading accuracy, 0.02 knot speed accuracy, which is insane. I don’t know if there are any other bits in there, as they are not revealed on the specifications sheet or elsewhere, but it wouldn’t surprise me. The roll and pitch data have been so frighteningly accurate as well, that even if it is the GNSS antennas, I’m impressed. [Sam Landsman](http://www.slowboat.com/?ref=seabits.com) [September 27, 2020 at 9:11 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-53) I completely agree. I have an older sat compass (SC-30) and the SCX-20 looks to be even better. Together with the NXT radar, overlay is dead-on all the time, MARPA works quickly and accurately, and true and relative motion trails are super accurate. TZPro makes all of this super easy to use, especially changing trail length and from true motion trails to relative motion trails. The Simrad 4G radar and NSS12 I had on a previous boat seemed okay, but are terrible in comparison! Brandon [December 16, 2020 at 9:45 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-13) I’m in the process of upgrading may systems at the same time and thus allocating our budget between projects is key. I had my eye on the 220WX prior to reading this and am now wondering if getting the SCX-20 and forgoing the weather benefits of the 220WX for the time being. Is the accuracy of the SCX-20 vastly better than the 220WX in day to day usage? In other words, should I get the 220WX and deal with lower accuracy or get the SCX-20 and not have weather until budget allows both. Thanks again for a great writeup! Shad [January 5, 2021 at 12:07 am](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-642) I have a DRS12AX and TZT12F MFD installation connected to HUB101\. The chart has also been purchased and installed. Please advise on the following; 1- How to enable TRAIL in Bird Mode. Do I require additional sensors or setting change 2- How to enable Radar Overlay function in Map mode 3- How to enable ACQUIRE for target tracking 4- How to enable the compass card to function in Radar display I can see the SCX20 in the MFD settings. Do you think with the SCX20 installed it would enable the above functions. Thanks - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 9, 2021 at 6:23 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-647) Hi there, I think a few of these questions are likely addressed by the TZT2 software manual, at least question 1-3 seem like they are likely covered there. I’m not sure what you mean in number 4, and unsure if you have the SCX20 or if you’re considering purchasing one. Drew Clark [April 14, 2021 at 8:54 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-3495) Hi Steve, I’ve just ordered an SCX20 with pole mount and am hoping to mount somewhere on my Grand Banks 36 flybridge. As I have no hardtop or radar arch (just the usual GB mast and boom with Furuno radar up the mast a ways) I am thinking of somewhere on the front helm dash or perhaps along the aft FB port/starboard railing. Based on your experience with the unit you’ve installed, do you think I’ll be ok stability-wise with a short pole mounted on the FB? Thanks - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:37 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-scx-20-satellite-compass/#comment-3621) Sorry for not responding sooner – a bunch of comments got flagged as spam accidentally! Mine is up on my arch and off center and works fine. A lot of smaller boats have it just up on the roof and may have some shading, and it works well there too. You could try it in a few places before mounting it. It does have to be pretty flat/level, so if it were on a dash I would want to make sure of that. ### Rendezvous Internet Setup for 2020 URL: https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/ Last updated: 2022-03-10T01:41:56.000Z I am constantly making updates and changes to my internet system on board [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), but I do usually settle on a stable system that I go back to when I am not testing, or when I have guests aboard. This is that system for 2020. For the last few years, I have been using Peplink products as the core of my system, and that doesn’t change this year. In fact, there are more Peplink devices than ever, with a sprinkling of other vendors. ## System Design ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Rendezvous-Internet-3-1024x939.png) The goal of this system is to have the following: - Continuous internet connection whether at a marina or at anchor - 2x LTE sources that can be used simultaneously for redundancy and speed - 2x WiFi sources at 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz to capture remote WiFi signals - 2x internal WiFi access points for redundancy and coverage - Central management and monitoring - A booster for situations where signal is so low, even the higher gain antennas can’t pick it up - Physical ethernet ports for things that need direct cabling ## Equipment List - Peplink MAX Transit CAT18 - [Peplink MAX HD1 Dome CAT18](https://sbits.us/hd1cat18?ref=seabits.com) - [Peplink SIM Injector](https://www.peplink.com/products/max-hd1-dome/?ref=seabits.com) - [weBoost Drive Reach booster](https://amzn.to/3geqPvv?ref=seabits.com) - [2x Peplink AP One Rugged access points](https://www.peplink.com/products/ap-one-series-rugged/?ref=seabits.com) - [TrendNET 8 port industrial switch](https://amzn.to/2YfaOiN?ref=seabits.com) - [2x Poynting OMNI-402 LTE antennas](https://sbits.us/omni402?ref=seabits.com) - [2x Poynting OMNI-496 WiFi antennas](https://sbits.us/omni496?ref=seabits.com) - [Poynting OMNI-400 LTE antenna](https://sbits.us/omni400?ref=seabits.com) - [LMR-400 Ultraflex cable for the antennas](https://www.showmecables.com/by-category/cables/wifi-microwave?cable%5Ftype=447&ref=seabits.com) You may notice that the MikroTik Groove is missing from this list for the first time in probably 5 years. That functionality has been moved to the Peplink MAX Transit, and I am very pleased with the performance as well as control that this has given me. ## Details ### Peplink MAX Transit CAT18 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/Peplink-MAX-Transit-CAT18-antenna-ports-1024x768.jpeg) This is the core of the network. It provides the internet source either via LTE or remote WiFi, is a feature-packed router that has controls for managing bandwidth, and provides redundancy through SpeedFusion Bonding. Here are the services it provides and how: - **LTE internet source** – this has 2x SIM slots currently populated with SIMs from Verizon and AT&T. It has one CAT18 radio, 4x antenna ports, leading to 2x OMNI-402 dual element 2×2 MIMO antennas on my antenna arch. I’m using LMR-400 Ultraflex cable from the MAX Transit to the antenna wires on the OMNI-402s and have kept the runs as short as possible. - **WAN / LTE internet source #2** – the WAN port on the MAX Is connected to the SIM Injector / HD1 Dome and uses this as an additional LTE internet source. Having two LTE connections allows for amazing levels of redundancy, and combined with SpeedFusion (see below) gives you tons of additional options to always stay connected. - **WiFi WAN internet source** – the two WiFi connections on the MAX are connected via LMR-400 Ultraflex to two Poynting OMNI-496 WiFi antennas mounted on my antenna arch. This allows me to use these radios to search for remote WiFi networks and use them as an internet source. The OMNI-496s have performed as good as, or in the case of 5Ghz, better than the [MikroTik Groove](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/), and have a much easier to use interface, with additional useful options. - **Router features** – these aren’t new from previous MAX Transit products, but have been continually getting better with the free firmware updates Peplink offers. They are critical to maintaining a reliable internet connection aboard, and include things like priority levels for the various sources, bandwidth management to make sure one device doesn’t consume the entire connection, plus some new load balancing algorithms specifically for LTE connections. - **SpeedFusion Bonding** – this is also not new, but has seen some amazing improvements in the last 6 months. Essentially, this allows you to take two different internet sources, combine them into a single connection, and apply all sorts of different magic to them. You can have them both working simultaneously, use various different methods to watch performance on each, and send traffic out the best one, plus a host of other options that deserve an entire article. This has been instrumental in allowing me to work from the boat 100% of the time, no matter where I am, and participate in Zoom calls, high quality phone calls, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/SpeedFusion-crazy-1024x341.png) ### Peplink MAX HD1 Dome CAT18 + SIM Injector I think this is one of the most underrated products for getting LTE internet on your boat. Not only does it not require tons of antenna wires, but it can be combined with other Peplink products to make a very robust setup. You can [read more about the details in the initial review I posted here](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/). The dome is mounted on my arch, a single ethernet cable (originally used for the MikroTik Groove) heads down to my Internet Alcove where it connects to the SIM Injector. That device has three SIM cards in it (it can hold 8!) from AT&T, T-Mobile and Verizon. It has a 12v to 48v DC buck converter powering the SIM Injector which in turn powers the dome on the roof via power over Ethernet (PoE). A cable from the SIM injector is connected to the WAN port of the MAX Transit as an LTE internet source. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-side-1024x768.jpeg) The performance I’ve seen out of the dome vs. antennas (even the MAX Transit CAT18 + Poynting OMNI-402s) is the best I’ve recorded in a long time. There are some places where the antennas do slightly better due to lower signal levels, but in almost any other situation, the dome has outperformed everything else. This of course has to do with the fact that the antennas are inside the dome, right next to the modems, with no signal loss from a cable run. ### weBoost Drive Reach booster + Poynting OMNI-400 antenna I don’t use this as much as I used to because of the quality of the signal I get with the Poynting antennas and the HD1 Dome, but I still have it setup in case I need it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-wide-1024x768.jpg) weBoost Drive Reach kit You can [read more about the weBoost Drive Reach in my review on it here](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/). It is still the best solution out there to boost 4G and most of the pseudo-5G signals, but you should really consider whether you need one all of the time. I have mine paired with a single Poynting OMNI-400 LTE antenna. The booster itself is off almost all the time. When I do need it, I end up having to take all of the antenna cables off of the Peplink MAX Transit, put the factory antennas back on, and turn on the booster. This is not the easiest thing to do, and tends to put wear and tear on the antennas and connectors, but it is really the only way to do this short of having a secondary Peplink MAX Transit sitting idle, turned off, and waiting to be used with the booster. ### Peplink AP One Rugged access points I’ve recommended these for years for anyone needing a DC-powered WiFi access point, and have used them myself as well. This year, I have two of them in different places around the boat to ensure complete coverage, and so that if I am doing work on the MAX Transit, or testing something else, I don’t have to reconfigure my local WiFi network. This creates my local WiFi networks – one for navigation critical stuff, one for my stuff, and one for guests. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/pepwave-ap-one-rugged-17.jpg) The AP One Rugged runs directly off of DC power, or can be powered by PoE. I’m using DC power myself but am testing a TrendNET PoE switch that may replace the one I have in place now. The bigger benefit of the AP One Rugged is the WiFi radio transmit power – quite a bit more powerful than any of the MAX Transit line, which means better coverage across the boat. If you need more coverage, and have a MAX Transit or other Peplink product, I highly recommend the AP One Rugged. It can be managed by the MAX Transit, as I am doing, and complements them very well. ### TrendNET 8 port industrial switch I’ve been using these for 3-4 years and they have not failed me yet. Simple to power, low power usage, and built like a tank, they are a great switch if you need more physical ports on your network. As I mentioned above, I am evaluating a 12v DC powered PoE switch that could replace this, and end up saving me some wiring to the access points, although it has less physical ports. ### Poynting OMNI-402 LTE antennas I am using 2x of these antennas connected to the 4x LTE ports on the Peplink MAX Transit CAT18 in a specific pattern recommended by Poynting. They have performed extremely well with all providers I’ve tested them with in a ton of different locations and signal levels around the Salish Sea. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-OMNI-402-2-768x1024.jpg) I have been a fan of the Poynting marine series antennas since I found them in 2019, and while I am sure some new antennas have a slight advantage in some area, the quality of the build of these antennas and excellent marine mounting system means they are my primary choice, and probably will be for some time. You can r[ead my review on them here](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/). ### Poynting OMNI-496 WiFi antennas I’ve only had these antennas for about 6 months, but they are hands down the best dual band, outdoor, marine grade WiFi antenna I have ever found. Try looking for a dual band, or even a 5Ghz, marine grade WiFi antenna, and you won’t find many options. Poynting have produced an antenna with impressive performance, similar in size and shape to the OMNI-400/402, with the same quality marine mounts. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/IMG_7648-1024x637.jpeg) I have seen really excellent performance out of the antennas for 2.4Ghz WiFi signals, very similar to the performance I saw with the MikroTik, and that’s saying something. The MikroTik had the antenna directly attached, while the Poynting is running down some LMR-400 Ultraflex to the Peplink MAX Transit. One could assume that connecting the OMNI-496 directly to the MikroTik would make that performance better, but I prefer having the control of the Peplink software in this situation. The real surprise was the performance on 5Ghz – I’ve never seen an antenna perform this well in marine conditions. Usually 5Ghz is almost unusable unless you are in a marina and not moving, but I have locked on to 5Ghz signals repeatedly using this antenna, and had great performance. ## Benefits **CAT18 / Performance – both of my LTE sources** – the MAX Transit and MAX HD1 Dome – are category 18 modems. This has helped with both overall throughput and performance, given that CAT18 modems will connect with up to 4 different bands, but it also seems to have helped in low signal areas as well, where I’ve routinely seen 2 bands instead of 1. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Performance-Fishermans.png) Performance numbers from Fisherman Bay, Lopez Island **Central control from MAX Transit** – This has been a big improvement, and allows for some more complex logic using various load balancing and SpeedFusion features. It has allowed for faster failovers during Zoom sessions, better quality connections, and better visibility into what is going on. **Ease of use** – similar to the above, because the MAX Transit is doing almost everything, it means I can control the priority of the connections and everything else in one place. Previous systems I have had in years past had other components which required manual intervention (MikroTik comes to mind) or other challenges. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/SpeedFusion-Tunnel-Craziness-1-1024x774.png) **SpeedFusion / Bonding** – this deserves it’s own article, but in short, it allows for redundant LTE connections and constant monitoring and control of how I am connected. It can be configured to look at individual packets, LTE performance and latency, and many other factors. You can also add rules that apply different logic depending on the device – I have WiFi calling traffic use a specific type of tunnel that is optimized for that, my laptop use a very redundant and quick failover connection, and other non-critical items use whatever is available and fast. **Powerful WiFi as WAN** – the Peplink MAX Transit combined with the Poynting OMNI-496 antennas make for a powerful way to grab remote signals. It’s easier to configure than a MikroTik, doesn’t appear to have the weird connection issues that have developed over the last year with UniFi equipment, and has more options specifically for connecting as a WAN source. **Redundant access points** – having dual access points via the AP One Rugged inside the boat allows for redundancy, and for maintenance on the router without disturbing local traffic. It also provides better coverage all around the boat. ## Challenges **Complexity** – even with most of this being Peplink equipment, there are still a lot of additional features I’m using that the average user might shy away from, and would negate some of the benefits of having the hardware if you didn’t use. There are also quite a bit more boxes involved with this setup than a single MAX Transit, but I think those are worth the complexity. **Cabling** **& Antenna Space** – this is going to quickly become more of an issue for those of us who want multiple CAT18 modems, as they require 4x antennas each. The Dome solves this, but there are pros/cons with both approaches. ## Cost – a sidebar The push to work remotely in the last 6 months has really shown both the positive and negative sides of internet solutions on boats. In particular, it has shown some of the challenges with using the different solutions available, and that simple connectivity isn’t the norm anymore – high availability and bandwidth have become even more important with Zoom calls and critical traffic. There are many people who balk at spending a few hundred dollars for internet aboard. This isn’t a home network connection – it’s a lot more complex on a boat, and that means more cost. If you want something redundant with failover (do you have that at home? I bet you don’t…) that uses multiple LTE connections, that’s going to cost more. If you’re looking for a budget conscious solution, that’s OK too, but you’re not going to get the performance of this system, nor the features or redundancy. I can’t tell you how many times someone has engaged with me and been frustrated at how expensive some of this equipment is, yet in the next sentence, talk about how they spent 2 weeks in a boat yard ($) replacing all of their marine electronics ($$$) and other work that was done. If being connected reliably is even 50% as important to you as having a reliable electrical system, engines, etc. then why aren’t you OK with spending money to make it that way? There are tons of ways to get internet aboard, and many are cheaper and simpler than this solution. Those include things like hotspots, tethering to your phone, or any number of MikroTik, Amarok, and other manufacturers routers that will do just fine. However, they do not have the features, redundancy, or power of this system. This market is also not anywhere near as big as the home / “prosumer” internet world. There are more vendors than ever before, but it is still a drop in the bucket compared to companies like Netgear, UniFi, Google, Eero, TP-Link, who sell home equipment. Few of those vendors offer redundant internet connections, and even less offer an LTE connection of any kind – most of them are just as a backup. This configuration provides highly redundant, always available connectivity from just about anywhere you could think of in a coastal cruising situation. I require this for my job, and I am willing to pay for it. The overall cost of this system is a bit beyond $5000, not including my labor to install it. Or, the cost of a new chart plotter and sounder, a haul out for 2 weeks with bottom paint and some other small work, 5x 100 amp hour LiFePO4 batteries (not installed)… ## Wrap up I’m always constantly refining my setup, so even a few weeks after I publish this, there will likely be minor changes to help optimize it for whatever I’ve found. I also have a ton of other equipment and solutions that I have been testing in 2020, and those slide in and out of this setup as needed depending on their capabilities. However, just like with my NMEA 2000 / boat network, I have a core set of equipment that I always rely on when I need something reliable, and when I am not testing, and that is what you see above. I’m very pleased with the performance and reliability of this system, and the control I have over everything. Compared to last year, I have more LTE connections with better modems, much better antennas, and a better WiFi as WAN solution, combined with more powerful internal access points. What’s not to love? --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Captain Jack R](http://captainjack.ws/?ref=seabits.com) [August 23, 2020 at 8:07 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-69) Starlink is going to be a game change when it is fully operational. I talked to a gentleman who works in Redmond, Wa facity about the theoretical capability of Starlink. He told me that with an antenna about the size of large pizza box that you can mount on the top of your roof at home, you’ll be able to get very fast broadband internet that it would compete with local internet providers in both price, speeds, and location (rural areas). I asked him would it work on a boat. He wasn’t sure but there was another company that had built a flat antenna that fits on top of an SUV that was able to handle off-road use while still maintaining a good connection. No more gimbaled dishes. I couldn’t get any more information as he didn’t have the liberty to say. I could tell he wanted to say more but I said don’t fret, we will all learn more when the system is all turned on. I did ask about if online gaming would work on Starlink. He said yes, but don’t expect to outperform fiber to the home. It can outperform current cable internternet providers. What I personally predict that residential internet providers will have to lower their pricing to compete. Or offer fiber to your house before breaking it up to cable. They will also would have to offer near zero ping to the backbone. I also predict that current off-shore sattlite service provider become obsolete or at the very least, discount their service fees. Massimo Sirolla [August 24, 2020 at 10:26 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-70) Hi Steve, After your comments on the Teltonika RUTX 11, which seems to be a great all-in-one router, I have noticed that the company has partnered with QU Wireless to offer an all-in-one system which includes all the antennas, and the router, all in one block to install outside. See here: [https://quwireless.com/product/QuRouter-X11S](https://quwireless.com/product/QuRouter-X11S?ref=seabits.com) This looks like a brilliant system where you want a budget solution and/or do not have much space on the boat for antennas, etc. The router is inside the external antenna element, so the only wire you need is the power, or a POE cable if you need a LAN cable inside the boat. The declared gain performance of those antennas seem good, and there is the advantage that there is no loss between the antennas and the router, as the RUTX11 is where the antennas are. What do you think? It would be great if you could review this setup, as if it’s any good, it’s a brilliant low-cost low-space system. Adam [August 25, 2020 at 4:54 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-68) Hi Steve, Very helpful post as always. When you mention the antennas are arranged for cat-18 as recommended by ponyting, what did you mean? Thanks! [Mihaly](http://roadtrip.love/?ref=seabits.com) [September 2, 2020 at 1:06 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-67) Great stuff Steve. I Learned a few new tricks! In Canada, I’m finding hard to source the Poynting antennas, mainly the 402s. Where did you buy your antennas from? The Poynting website is not helpful. I’m also on a tight budget, but making minor tweaks following you lead when soft cash comes to hand. Maciek Sarnowicz [September 26, 2020 at 7:24 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-62) Hello Steve, Thank you for a great article. A few questions: 1) Do you have an opinion about Poynting 7-in-1 antenna that seems to be well setup for Peplink Max Transit, but maybe more for RV market than Boating. Still, I would like to simplify the antenna installation. 2) Is there a use for SpeedFusion if there is only one LTE tuner in the setup? I think you are using it with tuners from MaxTransit + HD1 Dome. 3) Reading Peplink site, it seems that SpeedFusion is only available with some kind of subscription. Do you have an experience with that? Matthew [September 29, 2020 at 9:54 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-51) Hi, Could you leave the external antennas connected when using the weBoost Drive Reach kit? Would the boosted signal be picked up by the Peplinks LTE external antennas in the same way swapping to small factory antennas would? David de Regt [October 25, 2020 at 5:41 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-49) Hey! I was just linked to this thread from an MBYC post, and now have to follow your blog. 🙂 We’re currently doing the great loop on the east coast (well, this year, the great up and down the east coast, anyway, maybe next year Canada will let the dirty Americans in), and working full time, so have similar problems as you do. My current solution is based around a single WirEng GigaMIMO (2×2 MIMO huge omni antenna), which we use basically 100% of the time. I find our Wave Wifi booster to be essentially useless. I’m using a Cradlepoint IBR1700 router that’s … okay, but if I were to do it over again I’d definitely go with the Peplink. We have [our own similar blog post](https://www.highwind.fun/2020/04/29/internet-connectivity/?ref=seabits.com), though our setup isn’t as complex as yours, and I’m not as happy with it. 🙂 I’m curious if you ever tried out the WirEng antennae. When I was first accumulating a setup for working from the boat, I was looking heavily at the Poynting stuff, because it had pretty large gain numbers for the size, but ended up taking a risk and going with the WirEng setup, just to ideally make sure we really had the best gain possible. So far it’s worked out pretty well — only one spot on the trip have we had zero internet for a few minutes, and it’s a known completely dead spot on the Alligator River. At the end of the day, I’d take a tiny drop in boost for a true 4×4 MIMO setup to get the increased throughput the rest of the time. Going back to your setup, it appears that you basically have 3 different echelons of connectivity: 1\. Great local connectivity — the dome setup. Least gain, but no loss because the modem is inches from the antennae, so great SNR, and maximum throughput, if it works. 2\. Moderate connectivity — the two Poynting 2×2 LTE antennae for 4×4 service. Pretty good gain, but lossy because of the long cables down to the modem. Pretty good throughput, I assume, assuming you still have connectivity. 3\. Bad connectivity — the booster on one of the LTE antennae that you manually swap in. Noisy as heck, so low throughput, but will eke out what it can in the worst connectivity situations. Is that accurate? It sounds like, the majority of the time, the dome setup is what you’re on, even out in remote sections of the Salish Sea? I just moved our solar setup from our hardtop to our bimini, which frees up a bunch of space for more antennae to go up there, so I’m tempted to try out some of the equipment you’ve found to be effective here. Finally, can you share what your sources of SIM cards are? We’re currently on 3 SIMs: 1\. Verizon prepaid unlimited ipad plan — 55$/mo, not available anymore. It’s super deprioritized, so on any congested towers/rural areas where the tower has limited bandwidth, we get the shaft during prime time. But it is truly unlimited, and often times can get crazy bandwidth. 2\. AT&T “unlimited” through NoLimitData — 80$/mo, 500GB/mo max before getting shut off. It’s somewhat deprioritized, but at least in the northeast, it’s what were on 90% of the time. 3\. Google Fi — I’m sure you know how this works. Backup that gets us Tmo/Sprint/etc. in case of emergency connectivity needs. Low limits. Scott [October 25, 2020 at 11:42 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-47) Steve, could I trouble you sir for the model of PoE switch you reference that runs on 12VDC? The lowest DC voltage I’ve found on TrendNet is 24V, and I’ve been struggling to find a 12V supply PoE (preferably L2/managed) unicorn switch. Cheers Peter Blom [October 26, 2020 at 7:20 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-45) Hi again Steve, we interacted a few years back () regarding placement of antennas on a sailing catamaran. I was just about to install my MikroTik Groove antenna up in the mast when I happened across this updated network setup article. Would you recommend I ditch the MikroTik Groove antenna, and instead speed order two Poynting OMNI-496 antennas? Or is the difference not big enough to warrant a rethink in the moments before installation? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [October 26, 2020 at 7:47 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-46) Hi Peter, Good to hear from you again. If you’re planning on putting the MikroTik/Antenna at the very top of the mast, then I would definitely still use the MikroTik. That way you only have to run CAT5 down the mast, which has no loss essentially. If you decided to put two OMNI-496’s way up there, you’d have to run antenna cabling up there too, and the loss would be significant. Matthew [October 30, 2020 at 10:01 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-43) Hi, Can you explain the Omni 402 cross connected wiring configuration please? In terms of cabling to main and AUX ports – are both coax from 1x 402 antenna going to the same MAIN/AUX pair or are you sharing 1 x 402 across MAIN and 1 x 402 across AUX? I am looking at a yacht setup with Teltonika RUTX11 or RUTX12, my concern is the number of antennas required. The Omni400 is available in my location and I was going to use 2 of them as external MAIN and AUX on the RUTX11, which has dual sim with fallback, single modem. However also found the RUTX12 that has 2 x LTE modem inside. However doubles the number of antennas required. I am looking for range when underway but good stable connection for videoconferencing at anchor. I am unsure if using the MIMO/DIversity/AUX as external is really required – I have used just the provided inside antenna which seems to work in high strength areas on other setups. Thanks in advance M David de Regt [November 26, 2020 at 5:45 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-35) So I finally took the plunge and just finished a couple days of fishing wires and changing a pile of random stuff out, and now I’m running an el-cheapo variation (\~2300$ total) of your setup, which I can add a dome to down the line if I find myself still wanting more: \* Max Transit Duo LTEAPro \* AP One Rugged \* 2x OMNI-402 \* 2x OMNI-496 Ran power up to the hardtop, and just mounted the MAX Transit up there, with all of the antennas connecting to it on shortish leads, and a CAT6 cable down to the salon to the AP One. After a few days of verifying this works well, I’ll dismantle the old Cradlepoint setup completely, run the cables back up to the hardtop, and do some back-to-backs over the next month with the 402s vs the GigaMIMO, to see if it actually does have more gain. Do you have an update on the 12V POE switch you’re playing with? I need to pick up a 12V switch since the AP One doesn’t have an integrated 4 port solution, and jumping into POE might be nice for future adds. I’m still getting used to the paradigms in the Peplink software, but, aside from the super-wonky (IMO, anyway, though I’m likely missing something) AP controller setup, it’s been pretty damn easy. I need to start doing smart routing rules for voice traffic going to speedfusion cloud automatically. Still struggling a bit with getting the speedfusion cloud stuff intelligently set up, with a separate SSID and such, and having it still broadcast out of the Transit MAX instead of the AP One, but I’ll get it all figured out. Might be useful if you put out an article on all your peplink tips and tricks. 😀 Peter Molettiere [December 20, 2020 at 9:18 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-8) Hey Steve, I’ve decided to follow your lead, with a Max Transit and two Poynting Omni 402s. I’m looking at installing, and given the geometry I have to deal with on my boat, I have to extend at least one of the antenna runs to install this. I’ll also have to cut the preinstalled SMA connectors off the antennae in order to run the cable through the pushpit. Would you recommend placing the Max Transit equidistant to the two 402s, or placing is as close as possible to one, and only extending the other? I get “place it as close as possible,” unfortunately, there is no place where both preinstalled antenna pigtails reach. I’m also interested in your thoughts or recommendations on field installable SMA connectors. Thanks! David de Regt [January 3, 2021 at 6:49 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-2) So it looks like we’re closing on buying a new boat next week, and now to figure out a full internet setup for it. The boat has a full hardtop as its highest point, but I need to use the folding mast to be able to clear all the bridges in FL (and further north on the loop as well), so I need everything to be collapsable. Hence, I’m probably going to end up getting a custom SeaView mast, and thinking about how to set this all up. Have you gotten any advice from Poynting on how far to separate the 402s (or the 496s for that matter)? I read some anecdotal stuff about 2-3 wavelengths minimum separation. For 700mhz that’s \~1-1.5m, and for 2.4/5ghz it’s only a fraction of that. If 1.5m separation is really good enough, then the off the shelf arms are good enough separation and I just need to do two levels of them (so I can put three 402s across two levels, and two 496s on one of the levels inboard of the 402s). Just trying to get some idea if you have suggestions on what’s really effective or if I need to get something wider and more custom. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 4, 2021 at 2:32 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-640) Congratulations on the new boat! Poynting recommends at least 1M separation for almost all of their antennas. The further the better of course. - David de Regt [January 4, 2021 at 11:12 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-641) Thanks! I also can’t find anything on vertical separation. From my basic understanding, any non-overlap is good enough since it should be nearly perfectly radial. Does that match your experience/knowledge? I think I’m going to try to end up with a seaview mast having two of their V-shaped antenna-holders that each have two 1″ mounts per side. I can stick the LTE antennas at the tips to get 1.5M horizontal separation and then a few inches of vertical separation, and the wifi antennas one on each inner holder to get less horizontal but full vertical separation. (This annoyance is all because of all the bridges on the ICW, so we’ll have to lower it all the time, so I want just one lowering device that clears everything rather than individually lowering 5 antennas AND a radar mast.) - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 5, 2021 at 2:13 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-650) Vertical separation is not as important as horizontal. The Seaview mount sounds like a good idea. I know they also make electric ones that can be lowered with a button if it’s something you have to do frequently! forpar [January 23, 2021 at 11:19 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-652) Steve, have you tried the 7-1 antennas from poynting or parsec? I am curious how they compare to the 402? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 23, 2021 at 12:49 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-653) Depends on which ones you’re talking about. In general, the smaller puck-style 7-in-1 antennas are pretty terrible on a boat. I’ve tried the MobileMark, a Parsec, and one Poynting, and the MobileMark was the best, but it still paled in comparison to a normal sized antenna. I have been very impressed with one from Peplink I’ve been testing – the Puma series. I will be publishing some notes on that one soon. Kevin d'Eon [September 28, 2021 at 12:19 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-5503) I love reading all your comments and setups.. One question is. What is the best setup for long range or very bad signal areas? I have all the room in the world on my boat.. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 30, 2021 at 3:36 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/#comment-5635) Hi Kevin, I answered you in email too, but in general, the best solutions I see involve high quality antennas with good, short cabling to 2×2 or 4×4 MIMO CAT12 or CAT18 modems. Boosters can help in some situations, but good antennas tend to work in more situations, more reliably. ### Engine and power dashboards URL: https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T16:23:52.000Z I have discussed my weather dashboard before in [Real-time weather from the boat](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/), but I have always wanted more visibility into other areas. I have a couple of new dashboards for engine performance and the electrical system which are detailed below. Earlier this week, I participated in a webinar hosted by Influx and co-chaired by Teppo Kurki from [Signal K](https://signalk.org/?ref=seabits.com) and showed off some of my new dashboards. The webinar was recorded and is [available here online](https://www.influxdata.com/customer/seabits/?ref=seabits.com). We cover the basics of why this solution is important, talk about how to set it up and how Teppo created it, and field almost 30 minutes of really cool questions at the end. I highly recommend watching it if you are interested at all in these dashboards. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/InfluxDB-slides.png) You can also [find the presentation here](https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1ER4LRjJWDo-1gKxobDATSHkqCSQhwpHC98V%5FosstKvo/edit?usp=sharing&ref=seabits.com) if you want to look through what we covered. ## Software Setup All of the data for these dashboards is stored in InfluxDB and gets there via Signal K [using a plugin](https://github.com/tkurki/signalk-to-influxdb?ref=seabits.com). You can see more details in the presentation above, or my [original post on how I set this up](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/). [Real-time weather from the boatGetting real-time weather data from the boat is now possible using SignalK and some plugins, plus beautiful dashboards in Grafana, with the data stored in Influx…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Grafana.png)](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/) It is relatively easy to setup Signal K and the plugin to store the data. If you have a computer with a NMEA 2000 interface, or if you have a gateway that sends out data on the local network like a [NEMO](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/), Yacht Devices, etc. you should setup Signal K and start saving the data very easily. InfluxDB is a [time series database](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time%5Fseries%5Fdatabase?ref=seabits.com) and it is very efficient. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Influx-size.png) I have 7 months of data in my database, which appears to be taking just slightly over 9GB. I have quite a lot of systems on my NMEA 2000 network, plus data coming in from my Victron power system, and a few other sources. The size of the database will be based on how much data you’re logging and from where. ## What do you store it on? I use an Intel NUC i3 at least 1 or 2 generations old from the current shipping systems. It has 4GB of RAM and a 100GB SSD. You can use a Raspberry Pi to run all of this just fine, but I prefer a slightly larger platform for two reasons. First, I like being able to look back at trends from months ago, and doing that on a Raspberry Pi can take quite a bit of time. Second, and more importantly, I want my data stored on a more reliable source than the SD cards used in Raspberry Pi’s. An SSD is far more reliable. I also like NUCs because you can run them directly off of DC power. You can [read more of why I like NUCs in general here](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/). ## Usage ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Dashboard-display-1.jpeg) I have the weather and electrical dashboards up while I am at anchor almost all the time. They usually appear on the 22″ touch screen monitor in the salon, but I also Miracast them to a TV sometimes so I can have a bigger canvas, or have them displayed on a USB-C remote monitor up on the flybridge. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Dashboard-display-TV.jpeg) Since they are generated by the NUC running Linux that is up in the Internet Alcove, I can open up the dashboard from wherever I want. Sometimes I use my phone or iPad, other times they are on display in the salon, and even more times I use them remotely via my VPN to check on things when I am not around. ## Weather The weather dashboard was the original one that inspired this, and I’ve updated it with a few new pieces. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Grafana-Weather-Dashboard.png) Weather dashboard – click for a larger version I’ve refined a couple of the graphs to provide more accurate data. In addition, I changed the little square stats at the top to use colors depending on the values and thresholds. For instance, I have the inside temperature change to red if it is above 80 and yellow if it is below 50. I use this dashboard while at anchor so the little stat boxes as a way to see the current conditions very quickly. I use the lower graphs to look back at the wind the last few hours, or to look up a storm or something weeks later. ## Engine Performance This data has been logged for months, but I didn’t have the chance to figure out proper conversions until recently. A lot of the data that is sent across to Influx from Signal K is in various different formats, and needs a little discovery to figure out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Grafana-Engine-2.png) Engine dashboard for a typical run – click to enlarge I’ve found the three things I review the most are the engine RPMs, coolant temperature, and boost pressure. My oil pressure data is somewhat funky right now, and is so stable it really doesn’t paint a picture at all. In the run above, I was headed from Quartermaster Harbor to Elliott Bay Marina the day after July 4th to take some family home. I had to slow down a few times for random reasons, which you can see pretty clearly. You’ll also notice that my port engine runs a bit warmer than my starboard one. I also need to look a little more at the data for boost pressure as they should be pretty close for both engines as I run them both at the same RPM all the time. I’ve tried combining some of these graphs on a single one but it seems to get too busy and hard to see things. That’s the fun part of this – you can go tweak a graph, create a new one, and the data is still fine. It provides a lot of flexibility in figuring out how exactly you want to see things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Grafana-Engine-4.png) Engine dashboard during higher RPM run – click to enlarge This is an example of when I was running the engines higher than normal cruise, and the port engine got close to a warning temperature. You can see the RPM graph at the top slowly stepping up as I increase speed. You can also see how it takes almost 20 minutes for my engines to get up to temperature when driving at lower RPMs out of a harbor… ## Electrical System I have a full Victron system on the boat, and their VRM portal contains a ton of information about the performance of the entire system that I could never hope to duplicate locally. However, I did put together some very helpful graphs and real time displays that I like having up while at anchor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Grafana-Electrical-Dashboard-2.png) Electrical dashboard while charging – click to enlarge This dashboard is similar in layout to the weather one – the top contains real time squares showing State of Charge, the battery current as measured by the shunt, AC loads on the inverter, the house bank voltage, time left on the house bank (estimated), and generator bank voltage. Below that are graphs showing the house bank/batteries on the left, and AC inverter performance on the right. In the example above, I am charging with the generator from around 10-11AM, and then had the engines running from just after noon to 13:30 using the alternators to charge while I moved somewhere new. The AC side shows a large usage during the generator run as I have a secondary battery charger setup to charge when on generator to speed the process, as well as had the water heater, water maker, and probably other random things going on. I try to put as much load as possible on the generator when it is on. While it is helpful to see how things are charging, I actually find the below more interesting. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/08/Grafana-Electrical-Dashboard-3.png) Electrical dashboard during typical day at anchor – click to enlarge This is a 6 hour period at anchor and shows a lot more interesting trends. The boxes at the top are showing the state at the end of the 6 hours – 82% SOC with 26 amps flowing out of the battery bank, etc. The estimate from the BMV-712 is that I have 26 hours left of battery time, but that varies greatly and is not the best metric to use. The graphs are the more interesting part – you can see the amperage out of the batteries going up and down as the AC loads in particular cycle on and off. I have a built in ice maker that uses the inverter to do its thing, and this was a warm day so it was working hard. These sorts of graphs are what I find invaluable to watching your system performance. The graphs above look pretty normal – spikes every so often, but nothing so big that it screws up the entire scale. Those are the spikes you want to look for to try to track down problematic loads or issues. ## Files I’ve exported each dashboard and attached them below for those who are curious. However, please be aware of a couple of things: - Data source – they are using the “rendezvous” data source from my Influx database. You won’t likely have one named that, and will need to change it. - Metrics – my database may have metrics with names that do not match yours. For instance, do you have NMEA 2000 data from your engines? Do you call them port and starboard (many people use the defaults of 0/1). You will most likely get errors if you import them, and it will take time to manually go in to each graph and change the data source as well as ensure you have a similar metric. - [Weather](https://www.dropbox.com/s/fn1fzplslle22ip/Weather-1606514955858.json?dl=0&ref=seabits.com) - [Engines](https://www.dropbox.com/s/pc8ocptaeic6k46/Engine%20Performance-1606514942961.json?dl=0&ref=seabits.com) - [Electrical](https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ei2l307e8ur247/Electrical%20System-1606514928686.json?dl=1&ref=seabits.com) I hope you enjoy dashboards as much as me! I will continue refining these, and look forward to the next iterations that will include alerting, some additional metrics, and maybe even a new dashboard altogether! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Michael Ramsay [August 15, 2020 at 9:40 am](https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/#comment-201) Nice work! I think I have to disagree a little with your statement about not being able to duplicate the Victron system – I think it is the other way around. The Victron system – at least to the extent that I understand it (not much!) – only has access to its own sensors. You can access to your complete sensor array. You can do anything you want limited only by your application and processing power which is very significant (i3 I think) in your case. You can bring loads of raw or processed sensor data into Influx from anywhere and combine and display it in ways that are of use to you – all in one place with one system. Keep up the great work! Bernard Hodges [September 28, 2020 at 10:21 am](https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/#comment-52) Thanks for the info Steve. Have you carried out any analysis using the data. I am looking at actual distance covered over measured distance between waypoints – and displaying the results showing wind, tide and slip effects? Also have you set up any tidal graphs for the area in order to better estimate the effect the tide would have on course set between waypoints. If you could develop an app that takes into account tide/current and Wind effect on the course set, this could save fuel and hence cash!!!! There’s a money earner for you!!! Bernard Hodges [September 30, 2020 at 12:37 pm](https://seabits.com/engine-and-power-dashboards/#comment-50) Thanks for your reply Steve. Good powered navigators put a finger in the air and allow leeway based on wind and tidal coditions prevailing-plus a degree or so derived from previous experience. Less fastideous navigators input the course from the route plan into the auto-pilot and then continuously adjust it as they pushed off this line by wind and tide (as shown by GPS track). The second method will inevitably use more fuel and time but is this something boat skippers even bother about? I am working on a project at the moment to determine how much time and fuel is lost by not imputting and following a single course line across the English channel by ferries. Predicting the effect of wind and tide are the main components but altering course for other ships also comes into the frame. Your notes on collecting data and displaying this has been very helpful to date. One further question…..are there a continuous real time tidal overlay for the electronic charts in your area. We are still working on the hour by hour paper overlays produced by the UKHO. ### Isolating AC power URL: https://seabits.com/isolating-ac-power/ Last updated: 2025-02-23T20:03:32.000Z Hi there, You may notice that this article is quite short. After a few comments (scroll down) and a number of email discussions on the side, I decided to remove the content of this article and replace it with this info. **There are serious concerns over the way this product was installed, and whether it is fully ABYC compliant.** **It is clear to me that the installation represents a credible shock hazard – the exact opposite of what I was trying to achieve.** At this time, it does not look like this product is ABYC Standard E-11 compliant in how it is grounded and also in terms of UL 1561. I pride myself in documenting projects with technically backed, facts based research. I consulted with an ABYC electrician prior to purchasing, and during the install of this product. I also contacted the manufacturer and asked questions about the product. At no point was it outlined that this product does not fully conform to all necessary ABYC standards. As such, I do not recommend the product at this time, and have removed it from use on my boat. If I get updated information from the manufacturer, I will be sure to post it here. Otherwise, I would suggest looking at traditional isolation transformers from Victron and other manufacturers. Thanks for your patience! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Charlie Johnson [August 9, 2020 at 7:13 pm](https://seabits.com/isolating-ac-power/#comment-81) 8/9/20 Steve I enjoy your articles and the meticulous manner in which you do your modifications. In your latest posting I saw some issues. 1\. Your Battle Born battery bank is well executed with the following exceptions: \> The batteries are not secured IAW ABYC Standard E-10 \> There are several B+ terminals and busses that have no insulating boot or cover on them. \> Both the B+ and the B- takeoffs from the battery bank are from one end of the paralleled batteries. The batteries furthest away from these connections will be under utilized under load and take longer to charge. Correction is easy: take the B+ from the fuse block end of the bank and the B- from the far end. 2\. The puck isolation transformer is not compliant with ABYC Standard E-11. \> There is no apparent electrostatic shield between the primary and the secondary windings. \> A “standard” isolation transformer is required to have a safety ground connection between the electrostatic shield and shore safety ground. Since there is no shield, there is no redundant path back to the shore source. \> The N and G are required to be bonded together at the secondary of the isolation transformer (and all sources of power on board). This bond is not shown on the drawing. I have been waiting for Bridgeport Magnetics to develop a compliant transformer. As an aside, the Victron Isolation Transformer uses a toroidal transformer with a proper shield and N > G bonding on the secondary. Charlie Johnson ABYC Master Technician [Jim Healy](http://gilwellbear.wordpress.com/?ref=seabits.com) [August 9, 2020 at 9:04 pm](https://seabits.com/isolating-ac-power/#comment-80) Steve, I apologize in advance for sounding critical. I like your articles and your work. I do have concerns with this particular piece. I had the same observations that Charlie Johnson reported, so I won’t repeat. I will tag on what Charlie said to add, this particular transformer might be usable on a boat – and also be in compliance with ABYC E11 – 1) IF IT IS WIRED AS A POLARIZAtION TRANSFORMER AND HAS A PROPER GROUND PATH BACK TO SHORE, and 2) if it is tested and in compliance with UL1561\. A Polarization Transformer configuration DOES NOT require the shield between primary and secondary, and does not require a metallic external case. The polarization transformer configuration would require a galvanic isolator for blocking DC galvanic voltages. You begin this post by saying “The two most common ways of isolating your AC power are a galvanic isolator or an isolation transformer.” I found this a little confusing, because it’s not clear that what you are “isolating” is small DC voltages. Where galvanic isolators are used, they are used to block very small DC voltages, thereby blocking very small, damaging DC currents. Galvanic isolators DO NOT block transient AC fault currents in the AC safety ground. Isolation transformers (more properly called “shore power transformers” because they can be wired in ISOLATION or POLARIZATION configurations) happen to isolate DC currents, but they also cut the AC ground path back to shore. That creates two new potential issues when there is an AC fault. First, in the case of an ABYC-compliant ISOLATION transformer, a short between the shield and the secondary side of the transformer creates a path for current in the water, leading to the discussion of the relative safety impacts in salt vs fresh water. And second, the input side of the PUCK, with a “capped off” ground as you described in the article, leaves the shore power connection to the boat (the primary side of the transformer) without a safety ground of any kind, which is a clear violation of ABYC E11, and a not insignificant fire and shock risk. The ABYC Electrical Standard, E11, calls out compliance to UL 1561, “Dry Type General Purpose and Power Transformers,” for all shore power transformers (isolation and polarization) and then calls out (11.7.1.1.2) several additional requirements for transformers used in the “isolation” configuration. This PUCK unit does not appear to comply in either case. In general, the most safe shore power transformer configuration is the polarization configuration, with galvanic isolator, precisely because there is a continuous AC safety ground to shore. But, ABYC does permit the isolation configuration. Please alert your readers to these concerns, which I know are arcane and technical. craig sauer [May 19, 2021 at 1:00 pm](https://seabits.com/isolating-ac-power/#comment-3537) So what is the latest? Does Bridgeport or any other manufacturer produce something like this that can be compliant and work so as not to trip the pedestal breaker? I would like to purchase one of these as soon as possible. Thanks - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 19, 2021 at 1:42 pm](https://seabits.com/isolating-ac-power/#comment-3538) Nothing has changed since I wrote this post. There were some emails back and forth between me, the manufacturer, and various regulatory agencies, but it still does not conform to ABYC, so I won’t be using it aboard my boat. There’s a bigger discussion about the type of device it is versus a traditional isolation transformer, and which one is better, as well as the spec itself, but as it stands, I don’t feel comfortable using this aboard my boat until the basic compliance issue is addressed. It sucks since it is such a quiet and compact device…. E Smith [September 16, 2021 at 2:42 pm](https://seabits.com/isolating-ac-power/#comment-4806) From the Bridgeport Magnetics website: “Our Marine-Puck family recently acquired UL Marine certification for the US and Canada. (E509703)” “Marine-Puck complies with ABYC Standard E11.17.3.5, Polarization Transformers, except for the enclosure being non-metallic.” ### Problems with T-Mobile voice+data plans and Peplink CAT18 URL: https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T16:27:28.000Z I’ve been testing a lot lately with the newer category 18 versions of the Peplink MAX Transit and [Peplink MAX HD1 Dome](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/). Those devices use the newer Telit LM960 modem, which is a data-only modem. After a week or so of problems with connections using my T-Mobile SIM, I have been able to determine by working with Peplink that **T-Mobile has blocked access** to their network for this modem if you are using a T-Mobile One plan, as I am. Read on for details… **Update December 2020** There is a new plan available that provides 100GB of data/month for $50 which works with the Peplink CAT18 modems and others. You can read more below: [T-Mobile 100GB internet data planT-Mobile is offering a decent hotspot / router plan again for $50/month that includes 100GB of data, roaming, and more!![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/tmobile-banner.png)](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-100gb-internet-data-plan/) > Update August 5th > After filing an FCC complaint, and working with T-Mobile for 2 weeks, I have decided not only to cancel my line of service for the hotspot plan, but also all of my personal lines, phones, tablets, and everything else. I have been a loyal T-Mobile customer for 10+ years. > Not only did they put me on a hotspot plan that essentially stops working at 22GB (3G speeds), but they are charging me $60 more per month for that privilege. They have no plans to reverse this stance, and it appears that most of their newer hotspot plans are this restrictive as well. > Their customer service, even when working with someone from the Office of the President, was unhelpful and unwilling to consider any alternative. > Given that Band 71 support requires newer routers, like the CAT18 ones from Peplink, this is a very shortsighted move by T-Mobile. Those of us who are on boats or other mobile platforms were looking forward to this new band given its abilities to travel further, yet the very technology we need to use for this is being hamstrung by these policies. > I also no longer recommend T-Mobile hotspot plans of any kind if you are purchasing a new line of service. > Peplink are maintaining a forum post of working plans and providers on CAT18 modems here: [https://forum.peplink.com/t/us-data-plan-on-lte-cat-18-models/29820](https://forum.peplink.com/t/us-data-plan-on-lte-cat-18-models/29820?ref=seabits.com) ## Background ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/T-Mobile-One-Graphic.png) T-Mobile One was a big deal when it came out in 2016 – it was their way of offering a single plan, no other nonsense, for a flat fee, with unlimited data. It really made them stand out as the “Un-carrier” at the time. Back in 2017, I [wrote about a change to the T-Mobile One plan specifically around the reduction of bandwidth they were going to give you](https://seabits.com/t-mobile-international-change-will-affect-boaters/) if roaming internationally. This was a big deal, because many of us in Washington State used this plan while we were in Canada for the summer on our boats. It was a lifesaver to still be able to be connected without massive roaming fees. Last year I used mine a lot while cruising Desolation Sound and the Sunshine Coast, and was very glad to still be able to check weather and browse websites for information. While the roaming data amounts were reduced, I was still able to use it for 3 weeks without too much slowdown or issues, which I was very thankful for. When I purchased the T-Mobile One plan, I had four devices total on the plan – two phones, and two tablets. All of them add “add ons” for the Plus feature they came out with about a year after, adding more “unlimited” data (how can you add something to something that is unlimited – don’t ask) and other features. One of the tablet lines was what I used on the boat, and what T-Mobile sold me to use in the router after speaking with their tech support and many others for hours and hours. This line actually had one extra feature on it which allowed the international roaming feature – the entire name of the line was T-Mobile One Plus International. This line was what I had been using for the boat in tons of different routers, hotspots and other devices, never without any issues for the last 3+ years. ## What has changed? T-Mobile have apparently blocked the T-Mobile One lines that have both data and voice from using a Peplink CAT18 router. They considered this a “loophole” even though they sold this very line to me for this purpose – to use in a hotspot/router. Admittedly, that was in 2017, and I’ve had a few upgrades in routers, but still… I can only confirm that it is blocked on the CAT18 MAX Transit and CAT18 MAX HD1 Dome, both which use the Telit LM960 modem. Other products or even manufacturers who use this modem may also be blocked, but I can’t confirm that. In addition, I can only confirm that T-Mobile One lines are blocked, but I am going to guess that **all** data+voice lines that you try to use with a CAT18 Peplink + Telit LM960 modem will be blocked. > Just to make this clear: this is not a Peplink problem – this is a change that T-Mobile has deliberately made – to block devices with the newer CAT18 modems from using their network unless they have a data only or “IoT” line of service. ## What are the symptoms? The modem will attempt to connect over and over again, sometimes via 3G, sometimes via LTE, and will always get stuck on “Obtaining an IP Address”. Eventually it will fail enough times that it will switch to another SIM (if you have one) or hard fail and reset the modem, trying again with the same SIM. ## What can I do? I spoke with T-Mobile for a couple of hours and was able to convert my line of service to a hotspot, data-only line. This solved the problem, but it now costs $80 a month instead of $20, which is a disappointment for sure. The resulting hotspot plan is supposed to provide 22GB/month of high speed, 4G LTE data, and 5GB of international data when roaming in Canada / Mexico, which is exactly what I had before with the T-Mobile One Plus International plan. > The only solution is to make sure the line being used is data-only, no voice – a hotspot, data-only line works so far for me…. ~~What I do not know is if after 22GB they will immediately slow me down, or if, like the old plan, I could still get high speed data unless I was in a congested area. Only time will tell….~~ **I can confirm this new plan is not the same as the previous plan.** Not only are they citing a higher cost, but it has a **hard 22GB cap and then goes to 3G (unusable) speeds.** ~~I’ve escalated this with my contact at T-Mobile – hopefully they can at least change the hard cap at 22GB – it originally was “unlimited” and didn’t slow down until 30-40GB a month and only in congested areas.~~ As I have mentioned at the top of this article, as of August 5th, T-Mobile are now actually charging me $60/more a month for this plan, and has a hard cap at 22GB of 4G LTE data, and then reverts to 3G speeds, which are mostly unusable. **As a result, I am cancelling this plan with them, as well as all of my other business. I also cannot recommend T-Mobile for any new hotspot plans given this severe limitation on data.** ## Why is it so hard to get a SIM or plan for my router? I get asked this question literally every day, and there is really no easy answer. The boating market represents very little in overall revenue for the carriers, and as such, they don’t have pre-defined ways to deal with these types of devices. Even if you expand it to the RV or car/truck market, it’s still not a significant amount of money compared to the masses, so they don’t spend much time on it. There are pages on some of their sites customized for RV folks, like [this one on AT&T for WiFiRanger](https://www.att.com/plans/connected-car/wifiranger/?ref=seabits.com), but take a look at it – $300 **a month** for 100GB of data? Are you kidding me? That’s more than my entire phone bill from T-Mobile for 6 lines, and 2 phones under contract. Mobile operators need to realize that we’d pay a decent amount for a good, quality unlimited plan to use in these devices. Not everyone wants to buy a hotspot device that a carrier provides. They are too underpowered, and they don’t work anywhere near as well as a Peplink device when you are trying to grab a signal in the middle of nowhere. They also have less than 10% of the features that a Peplink devices does, some of which are critical on a boat. $300/month for 100GB is way too expensive – I’d pay half that for sure, though, to have an unlimited connection aboard from AT&T. In fact, I do – but through a 3rd party reseller, because AT&T doesn’t have any decent plans they’ll sell me directly. I have a similar plan through Verizon, and it has worked well for almost 2 years. It’s disappointing that T-Mobile have decided to make this change, but they can do whatever they want with new devices especially. What I have learned in my years of testing and working with this technology is that the carriers control all aspects of your plan and connectivity, so if you need a reliable solution, get a plan from **two** different carriers minimum, and don’t be surprised if they change one right from underneath you. If you can’t get it resolved, ask to speak to technical support, post in the community for the provider, or the forums for the hardware you’re trying to use. If all else fails, get another plan from someone else, and move on! ## Please post your findings If you have a T-Mobile plan and are using one of the newer Peplink CAT18 devices, please leave a comment below if you have seen something different. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. David Geller [July 25, 2020 at 3:12 pm](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/#comment-93) I guess we are all hoping Elon saves us with StarLink. Maybe that’ll be the match under the carrier’s ass that forces them to get more competitive. 22GB gets used up really quickly after a few Netflix movies and if you forget to turn off auto-updating on your iOS devices! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 25, 2020 at 5:27 pm](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/#comment-205) It’s a nice thought, but I think it will be a while before StarLink will be viable. From what I’ve heard, a mobile base station for these services has not even been created yet, so we’re at least a year away before anything would be usable. Pricing for the non-mobile base stations are still a bit unreliable, but it still seems like it would be 10x what a Peplink or other router would cost – in the $10k range and up. I would imagine a mobile one would be more, so I’m not sure it will be in the reasonable range budget-wise for a while yet. Which is a shame, because it could solve all of our problems!!!! Jeff Few [July 26, 2020 at 6:16 pm](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/#comment-92) I suppose they’re cracking down similarly on other similar routers like my new GL.iNet Amarok. Was about to install my T-Mobile SIM today, so I guess I’ll find out soon. Jason [July 28, 2020 at 7:45 pm](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/#comment-88) HI Steve, Does the LB1120 still work on the T-mobile “one” plan? I’m looking for a “LTE for Dummies” modem/router to add to my Marine Trader to do my classes when on the hook–web-conferencing and such. Thanks in advance! Jason Jeremy [August 13, 2020 at 3:12 pm](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/#comment-74) It took me a few calls to T-Mobile to get the Netgear LB1120 to work last summer. Once I hit the high speed data cap it throttles to 3G speeds. [Zach](https://bbq.dev/?ref=seabits.com) [March 30, 2021 at 8:30 am](https://seabits.com/problems-with-t-mobile-voicedata-plans-and-peplink-cat18/#comment-3216) Still blocked in 2021! I just placed an order for their 100GB $50/mo hotspot plan. We’ll see if that’s unblocked. Should have it by the end of the week. ### Peplink MAX HD1 Dome URL: https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:35:56.000Z The MAX series of LTE products from Peplink has a number of different forms, including the MAX Transit, HD switch-style, outdoor, and the HD1 and HD2 domes. I finally was able to get a MAX HD1 Dome with Category 18 modems, and am very excited to be testing it over the next few weeks. ‼️ This product has been replaced with an updated version that supports 5G and includes a WiFi radio, the [MAX HD1 Dome Pro](https://onboardwireless.com/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-Pro-Router%5Fp%5F120.html?Affid=1&ref=seabits.com). The basics are still the same, along with the mounting and appearance, but it is more powerful and has more options with the WiFi radio. This is an initial overview of the product itself, some of the configurations I am considering, and a complete walk through video of the components. It is not a full review (yet!). > I acquire all of this gear on my own, am not sponsored by any company or reseller, and generally get the same discounts as you. If you want to help support my [reviews](https://seabits.com/reviews/), please [subscribe to my newsletter](https://seabits.com/news/), and if you purchase anything, use my affiliate links whenever possible. You can read more in my [Review Policy](https://seabits.com/review-policy/). Thanks for supporting SeaBits! ## Video Walk Through This video shows you all of the details behind the dome, SIM injector, mounting options, and pros and cons of the system. Please give it a watch and a like if you enjoy it, and [subscribe to my channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFkQN73zShE1bb9keAicn6A?view%5Fas=subscriber&ref=seabits.com). I plan on doing more videos like this for new hardware and devices. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-with-SIM-injector-everything.jpeg) I ordered the following: - Peplink HD1 Dome - [Peplink SIM injector](https://5gstore.com/product/8741%5Fpepwave-sim-injector.html?ref=seabits.com) With that comes a lot of bits and pieces which I’ll cover below. ## HD1 Dome ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-bottom.jpeg) The dome itself is about the size of a large soup bowl and is very well made. It is designed to be mounted outdoors in the elements. On the bottom of the dome is the main pipe where you can access the ethernet port, screw holes for various mounting options, a status light near the label, and a rubber seal that protects everything when mounted. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-side.jpeg) The bottom of the dome is extremely flat, so if you plan on mounting it without any other brackets, you’ll need a very flat surface, or need to ensure proper sealing. The rubber seal may not be enough, but using a sealant is likely a bad idea – if you do not purchase the SIM injector, you’ll need to open the dome to add a SIM card (it can hold two) which means if you ever need to access it in the future, you’ll have to undo your sealant, etc. This is one of the reasons I’m using the mounting kit you’ll see below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-top-view.jpeg) The top of the dome is a perfect place for a seagull to stand. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-ethernet-port.jpeg) Inside the threaded pipe on the bottom is the single ethernet port which will connect the dome to your network. It uses [802.3at power over ethernet](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power%5Fover%5FEthernet?ref=seabits.com) (PoE) which provides it power to operate as well as network connectivity. There’s also a status light and a reset button. > Note: PoE has different standards just like many other technology items. If you already have PoE on board for cameras, MikroTik Groove, etc. that does not mean it will work with this product. 802.3at is higher power/voltage than most older PoE equipment, so check your standards! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-pipe.jpeg) The pipe is threaded with a cutout for the ethernet cable to be routed out at an angle if needed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-pipe-nut.jpeg) The dome comes with a beautifully machined (and heavy!) stainless steel washer and nut. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-pipe-nut-mounted.jpeg) The pipe itself is about 1-1/4″ to 1-1/2″ (check the actual measurements) and you could bore a hole in a flat surface, stick this through, and use the nice washer and nut to mount it. I won’t be doing that on the boat due to access and the flat surface I’d need. ## Ethernet Splitter ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-ethernet-addon-back.jpeg) A nice inclusion in the kit is the ethernet splitter which does exactly what it says – splits the ethernet port so you can actually have another device connected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-ethernet-addon-mounted.jpeg) It mounts on the bottom of the dome using provided screws with threadlocker already applied, and has various mounting options. Once connected to the dome, you end up with an inbound port (LAN1) which should be from your power over ethernet / network source, and an outbound port (LAN2) which could be used to power another PoE device. This could be another Peplink Dome, an outdoor camera, or anything else that works with 802.3at. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-ethernet-mounted.jpeg) Peplink include a really nice set of connectors so that you can completely waterproof the ethernet connection, which is one of the main reasons I used the ethernet splitter. You have to use un-terminated cabling to get through the connector bits, and put your own end on, but that is a small price to pay for a very waterproof connection. ## Mounting Bits ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-mounting-options.jpeg) In addition to the big washer and nut, you get a bracket that can be used for flat or pole mounting and the hardware for both of those options, including screws, bolts, washers, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-full-mount-side.jpeg) I chose to use the bracket mounted to the ethernet splitter – it slides into the slots and two big bolts and washers hold it together. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-mount-only-mounted.jpeg) The modularity is nice – being able to mount the bracket first, and then slide the dome in and out made it easy for install, and it will also be easy for servicing if I ever need to do that. ## SIM Injector ![2019-01-22_141336](https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/business5/uploads/peplink/original/2X/8/840b9661a921edc5b66617fb55048c7650b4a387.jpeg) The SIM Injector is a separate purchase, but well worth it – most vendors will ask if you want it included on a quote for the Dome. It includes 4 ethernet ports that can power devices or connect to other networking equipment and 8 SIM slots. There are indicator lights for each SIM slot and the ports, and both a barrel connector for the power as well as a screw down block. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Pepxim-SIM-injector) The main benefit of this unit has to do with where it can be located in relation to the dome – inside in a safe, water-free environment. This allows you to have your SIM cards easily accessible in case you need to change them. For those of us who cross borders and need to get an in-country SIM every year, or change things depending on plans, this is very convenient. It also provides power to the HD1 dome via power over ethernet, as long as you have at least 48V of DC power flowing into it. This is part of the simplification with this entire setup when it comes to a single ethernet cable to the outdoor portion of the system. However, it does require 48 volts of DC power for this to work, so you will need a [step up voltage converter](https://amzn.to/2VNwukT?ref=seabits.com) depending on your boat voltage. ## Cost These are list prices at the time of this article being published. You can usually find cheaper prices at 5Gstore or another reseller: HD1 Dome: $1499 SIM Injector: $999 This is a total of $2498 at list prices. If that’s not sticker shock enough for you, consider the HD2 dome, which has two LTE radios, at $3499! I’m not sure why it’s more than double the cost of the HD1, but there you go…. If you compare a similar MAX Transit CAT18 router with appropriate cabling and antennas: MAX Transit CAT18: $749 2x Poynting OMNI-402 antennas: $820 4x 15′ LMR-400 Ultraflex cables: $220 That’s a total of $1789, which is about $700 cheaper than the HD1 Dome+SIM injector, and provides the full feature set of the MAX series, including an indoor WiFi dual band access point, outdoor WiFi as WAN, and can run directly off of 12V DC. But, it requires a lot of cabling and wires, and space to mount 2x OMNI-402 antennas, and potential signal loss. ## What you get Excellent CAT18 modem with outdoor antennas, as close as possible to the signal. A weatherproof dome with well designed mounting options, status lights you can see from below, and lots of different ways to deal with installation. Easy cabling and connectivity – a single Ethernet cable is all that is required to connect the dome to the indoor SIM injector. Indoor SIM management for up to 8 SIMs, 4 PoE ethernet ports that can be used for directly connecting devices. Full Peplink router software and control. ## What you’re missing Any sort of WiFi – the HD1 only has LTE radios, and no capability to broadcast or receive WiFi. This means all devices that use the HD1 must be plugged in to the SIM injector via Ethernet, or you will need to add an indoor WiFi access point/router of some sort. For a full on-boat system, you’ll need: - A WiFi access point such as the AP One Rugged, which the HD1 Dome can manage. - A way to grab remote WiFi signals such as a MikroTik Groove, or a MAX Transit / BR1\. etc. 48v to 12v power converter. For the price, and given that I have yet to see a car/boat/RV/bus have 56v, I think Peplink should have included some sort of converter. You can get them on [Amazon for pretty cheap](https://amzn.to/2VNwukT?ref=seabits.com), but it would have been nice to include with this expensive solution. In addition, there are still some features that are available when a SIM card is directly in the router that require beta or unreleased software, and others which I have not been able to validate work at all, even with that firmware. These include things like roaming (in beta software), signal level failover (sometimes works) and a few other things. You may wish to peruse the Peplink forums prior to purchasing to get more up to date info. ## Testing ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/07/Peplink-MAX-HD1-Dome-mounted.jpeg) I will not be opening the HD1 Dome and putting SIMs directly inside of it. I don’t want to break the waterproof seal, and will be using the SIM injector indoors at all times. The dome is mounted on an arch on my boat as high as possible. There are a few other antennas nearby, but they should not affect it that much, if at all. I am testing the Dome with US carriers T-Mobile, AT&T and Verizon, as I do with almost everything I get my hands on. I’m comparing it against a Peplink MAX Transit CAT18 that has 2x Poynting OMNI-402 antennas mounted on the same arch as the Dome, so it’s about as close to a perfect comparison between these two approaches as possible. In initial testing, it has performed extremely well, either meeting or exceeding the performance of the Peplink MAX Transit. Testing continues…. ## Roundup ### Pros - LTE radios should have amazing signal levels since they’re outside - Great mounting options - Single ethernet cable installation - Indoor, easy to use SIM management ### Cons - Cost - Need additional pieces to form a full network - Some features still in beta / not validated --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Adam [July 8, 2020 at 1:56 pm](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/#comment-100) Steve – Firstly, thank you very much for your thorough reviews of the products that matter most to those of us that are setting up a mobile internet solution for our boats/rvs. Incredibly helpful. I happen to choosing now between the peplink transit cat-18 with the poynting 402s, and a 496, and alternatively the pepline hd1 dome with a separate router and 496 for our sailboat. Looking to take work out on the water later this year! I had written off the hd1 dome because of the extra cost and not being an all-in-one solution, but your latest article gives me a bit of pause. Trying to maximize our ability to pick up farther away towers for stable internet capable of video chat, and wondering if the hd1 might warrant the additional cost for additional performance. Would you say at this point that your successes with the hd1 dome warrant another look? Richard Loftin [August 11, 2020 at 5:13 pm](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/#comment-77) I am a MIA member interested in a stable solution for internet. Currently I use three carriers Verizon, ATT, T-Mobile plus when needed HughesNet Gen 5 all run through a PepLink Balance Core feeding my wireless router. I have been looking for a modem on the roof solution. Eliminating antenna cabling makes sense. I was waiting for WiFiRanger Everest but it seems behind the times at Cat 6. Because I wish the redundancy and load balancing of at least two carriers I am now considering two HD1, a sim injector (which appears to work with two HD1), feeding my Balance Core. I have pre-wired Ethernet to my roof. This may seems extravagant but hopefully a solution I may not have to changes for several years. Perhaps someday our skies will be littered with satellites. Although promising, the questions of unlimited data and cost are unanswered. The question here is, does twin HD1s make sense to you, and with your hands on do you believe it is workable? Might you have another solution as capable? Thanks for the good equipment review, Richard Bill Kearney [September 19, 2020 at 6:07 pm](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/#comment-107) Nice you’ve got the arch there for all this stuff. Mine only has a mast and it’s not easy getting up to the mounting points, or lowering it (involves at least two strong people and a fork to cradle it). Any thoughts on the orientation of the dome and the effect that’d have on signal pickup? I’m debating how new devices should get installed this winter. I plan on replacing my radar and that’ll likely bring along some other rearranging. I’ve since ditched the janky wifi setup that came with the boat. The way the dome looks with that box under it seems like it’d be kinda ugly. [https://imgur.com/GLGd2B7](https://imgur.com/GLGd2B7?ref=seabits.com) Kevin Greene [December 31, 2020 at 1:05 am](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/#comment-3) Hi Steve – thanks for the great reviews. The HD1 looked like a great solution for me, but I wanted to leverage the MikroTik Groove I already have for WiFi. I heard you mention in your video that it didn’t work with the Ethernet splitter. Do you think this was related to PoE or some other issue? James Ryan [August 4, 2021 at 9:41 am](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/#comment-3669) Thanks for all the great information. You mention using just a standard cat 5 ethernet cable, but would a cat 6a shielded cable be preferable, especially if going up a mast with all the other communication and radar bouncing around? Thanks, Jim - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [August 4, 2021 at 1:44 pm](https://seabits.com/peplink-max-hd1-dome/#comment-3670) I always use shielded ethernet cabling on a boat. If it is going to be exposed or in areas where it will be more likely to have damage, I use plenum-rated or outdoor-rated cabling. CAT5 vs CAT6 won’t really matter, as they both have the same distance limitations. The only benefit of CAT6 or any of the newer standards is higher throughput amounts – 10Gbps versus 1Gbps. None of these products are going to even get to 1Gbps, so it’s not going to matter much. Either one will work fine. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 21 comments Paul Fichter@Paul\_Fichter October 29, 2021 Any idea when a 5G version of the HD1/2 dome may come out? Many new data plans require a 5G device even though a boat mounted device may never be in range of real 5G service. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 October 30, 2021 Good question! I don’t know of many data plans that require 5G and won’t work if the device doesn’t support that - they just offer 5G as part of what you get in the plan, and fall back to 4G LTE. I don’t know of any specific plans for the HD1/HD2 domes to support 5G. However, Peplink is pretty good about keeping up with things, although slightly behind the consumer market (phones, tablets, etc.) David\_Bradsher@David\_Bradsher November 19, 2021 Steve, Are you still having good success with the HD1 dome? Thanks, David Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 November 20, 2021 [@David\_Bradsher](https://seabits.com/u/david%5Fbradsher), It is one of my favorite ways to stay connected! I have two HD1 CAT18 domes and they are on 24x7 and provide most of my connectivity. In rare cases out in the middle of nowhere, a big antenna might do slightly better, but the domes are very close in that situation. In all other situations, the domes are superior. Corey Chamness@Corey December 14, 2021 Has any HD1 user found the SIM switch to be anything but tortuously slow? While it can detect poor performance in a matter of seconds on one sim, I find the switchover to the next sim to be many minutes. Is that expected behavior? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 December 14, 2021 I can confirm it is very, very slow sometimes, and moderately slow almost all the time. I also have to reboot the HD1 domes I have more often than anything else when switching SIMs when they get stuck in 3G and reconnecting. Corey Chamness@Corey December 14, 2021 Yeah, I may have to go your route with the two HD1 domes and join them. Then I can boot one then the other if necessary too. I just have the AP one rugged tho. So expensive but it is the lifeline to the outside working world Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #9 December 14, 2021 The challenge that I have with two HD1s is that you need a downstream router that has two WAN ports. And it probably has to be Peplink so if you’re using the SIM injector, that can be passed through. Starts getting really expensive. Corey Chamness@Corey December 14, 2021 Fortunately I am a little simpler than your setup. I don’t need the injector (very expensive) and I have zero interest in also being able to leverage land based wifi as an additional source. Basically I think I need to figure out if any of the peplink routers can support the two wans while also sending PoE for power and using my AP One rugged as my wifi access point (with PoE). Corey Chamness@Corey↩ #11 December 14, 2021 What router are u using for your two domes? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #12 December 15, 2021 I am using a Peplink MAX HD4 MBX which has 3x WAN ports, 8 PoE LAN ports, and 4x CAT-18 modems Not a cost effective solution - it’s in the $15k or more range. You could use the Peplink Balance 20X at about $400 and it has a backup CAT-4 LTE modem. It has one WAN port, but you can also use a USB ethernet adapter and a second WAN port. It will not do PoE. In fact, none of the routers that are under $5k from Peplink do PoE on the WAN ports without burning LAN ports, complicated VLANs and lots of money for features that you likely won’t use. Corey Chamness@Corey December 15, 2021 Sadly it is like you and others pointed out on the peplink website forum that there is a missing “in between”. So annoying! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #14 December 15, 2021 Yup! They need a router product with no LTE, two to three WAN ports that support PoE to power domes, 2-3 LAN ports for APs and downstream devices/switches, and that has 4-8 slots for SIMs that can be served out to the domes. It would be awesome too if it had 4x WiFi connection points - 2x for indoor, if you didn’t need APs, and 2x for outdoor WiFi as WAN. Corey Chamness@Corey↩ #15 December 15, 2021 Yes! Sign me up for that right now Colin@Colin January 19, 2022 Is it reasonable to mount the dome on top of the mast of a sailboat? Is there a concern with isolating the dome from the mast? Lightning protection? Has anyone tried this and have some details regarding the results? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #17 January 20, 2022 Hi [@Colin](https://seabits.com/u/colin) I’ve been part of 2 installs where the customer wanted the dome at the top of the sailboat mast. Most of the rest of the installs were much lower - on a rail or bimini or somewhere easier to maintain, etc. The challenges with the top of the mast installs included things like ensuring there was enough space around it, not conflicting with other sensitive things like VHF antennas, and generally figuring out how to mount it as it required a decent sized base. The other concern I had was from the maintenance perspective. If the thing ever got into a state where you needed to factory reset it or otherwise, you’d need to climb the mast. However, on the benefits side, you have the fact that you’re away from lots of other noise and radiation/interference, that you’re higher up so more likely to get signal if you are going offshore a decent amount, but not fully away from land. Hope this helps! JustinT@Justin\_Tume June 26, 2022 I have recently purchased one of these and am finding the performance absolutely woeful. I have compared to a cat 12 modem alongside the HD1 with antennas directly attached and the HD1 gets about a 20-30Mbps download and the cat 12 gets a 140mbps down. Same carrier And within 5 mins of testing both. At this stage it’s really not worth it and am going to return it. The hype of Peplink I don’t think is worth it. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #19 June 30, 2022 I wonder if you ended up with a bad unit, or if there was some sort of interference or other issue. I’ve used the HD1 Domes aboard my own boat, and have installed many on other boats, and they work very well. I’ve done a lot of testing with CAT12/CAT18 standalone routers (non dome) versus the CAT18 dome, and there are definitely benefits in external antennas for very low signal level areas, but in general, the CAT18 ones perform very similar. I hope you’re able to find a good solution! Isle\_Go@Isle\_Go August 11, 2022 Has anyone tested substituting a less expensive SIM Bank for the Peplink “Injector” for Remote SIM management on the HDx Dome product line, either on the LAN or WAN side? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #21 August 11, 2022 I’m not sure I fully understand your question. Are you talking about using a 3rd party device that can hold SIM cards and advertise them to the dome similar to the SIM injector? I wasn’t aware that was an open protocol or standard to do that sort of thing - I thought Peplink may have “rolled their own” way of doing that. Do you have links to any product or solution that might do this? Isle\_Go@Isle\_Go August 13, 2022 **ESIMs Are A Better Option Than A SIM Injector** No SIM Injector or SIM Bank needed where ESIMs are available and if the HDx Dome contains an ESIM card to upload them into. Peplink’s HD2 specification sheet does not state whether or not ESIMs are supported, I assume not. And I suspect that a couple of ESIM cards are about 1/100 the cost of their SIM Injector. Why make such a trade off? **HD Dome to Injector Software – Open Source or Proprietary?** With regard to Peplink’s Injector or a generic SIM Bank, my general understanding is that Peplink does not use proprietary software like some other modem companies; one in the UK comes to mind. I have yet to ask Peplink what glue/protocol they use to communicate to their SIM Injector, though, they usually push all questions off to distributors so an answer may not be likely. **Protocol Speculation**: With regard t the protocol the HD Dome may use to handshake with the Peplink’s SIM Injector, according to the website discoverytelecom.eu, there is a protocol for remote SIM Bank management wherein the SIM bank is connected to a “GOIP” device. It states that the GOIP is a GSM device with “Remote SIM support”. A GSM device means “Global System for Mobile Communications” which is one of the most common mobile network standards. I would expect that the two modems in the HD2 Peplink Dome are GSM devices with some type of Remote SIM support software. Is that software proprietary or open source? It appears that the Remote SIM support for discoverytelecom.eu’s SIM Bank is via a Linux utility call a “SIM Bank Scheduler Server” used by the GOIP to communicate with a SIM Bank. [Hybertone.com](http://hybertone.com/?ref=seabits.com) also has a version of the Linux utility by the same name. I downloaded the source code from the discoverytelecom site in order to read its license, but it was in Chinese. In addition, there are also a number of GOIP GSM utilities at [github.com](http://github.com/?ref=seabits.com). **In Summary** ESIMs, where available, uploaded into a modem’s ESIM Card sure would be a lot simpler and 1/100th the cost of a Peplink’s SIM Injector. ### More router testing and initial results on the OMNI-496 URL: https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:07:20.000Z I have been testing a lot of different router and antenna combinations this year, some of which I covered in [New routers & antennas under test](https://seabits.com/new-routers-antennas-under-test/). There are more choices for routers and antennas than ever before, which is a good thing. Here’s a quick update on some existing and new testing. ## Testing Continues…. Testing continues on a couple of routers with some quick updates: **MikroTik wAP ac LTE6** – great little router with powerful APs for a local WiFi network, single SIM slot and two ethernet ports. Performance of the local WiFi network is on par with all of the other powerful MikroTik devices, and the CAT6 LTE modem has worked well. I’ve tried it mounted inside and outside, with the preference being outside for the stronger LTE signal, at the cost of a little local WiFi performance. If you want an outdoor router with a single LTE radio, this is a good option. Just be ready to spend some time with MikroTik’s RouterOS, which is not for the faint of heart. **Peplink MAX Transit CAT18** – this is turning out to be my favorite because of how well the CAT18 radio is performing combined with OMNI-402 antennas. I’ve had amazing throughput numbers combined with good signal capture even in bad areas. I’ve used Peplink products for a long time, but this one has been consistently outperforming the CAT6/CAT12 versions – not just in download/upload speeds, which you would expect, but in pulling in remote signals. This is compared to my favorite configuration for most of 2019/early 2020 which was the previous MAX Transit paired with a single Poynting OMNI-400\. I can safely say that the CAT18 + dual OMNI-402s is my new favorite choice. I have it setup with the WiFi AP disabled most of the time (read below on the OMNI-496 to see why) and two AP One Rugged WiFi access points spitting out my local WiFi network. I will be publishing an article soon on my current primary network on [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), as I have had a lot of people ask, and it includes this router. You can’t go wrong with the CAT18, but know that you will need a lot of antennas to make it perform at 100%. ## Testing Ended…. **Cradlepoint IBR1700 CAT18** – The 1200-MB CAT18 modem does not appear to work with T-Mobile as you can read in a thread I [participated in here](https://customer.cradlepoint.com/s/question/0D73t000003teJV/what-settings-are-you-using-to-connect-to-tmobile-with-a-1200mb-modem?ref=seabits.com). I also opened a support case, and was told to talk to T-Mobile to have them “change the plan” to get it to work, but that didn’t work, nor did I want to muck up my grandfathered plan. Given that one of the motivating factors for people purchasing CAT18 is Band 71 support on T-Mobile, this seems like a big glaring hole. I’m sure eventually they will get it working, but I would steer clear of this product until they do. I was also not impressed with CradlePoint’s restrictive software and EULA, which is not new, but hasn’t changed. It requires you pay for support, or the product neuters itself and various features stop working. I hate software models like this, especially for a piece of hardware this expensive! This restrictiveness also crosses over to their forums, which you cannot access without a support contract. Open models of support and collaboration are important for any product I would recommend or use myself. **GL-X1200 Amarok Dual LTE router** – I [finished my review on this product](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/), and was quite impressed. There have been a number of folks who have contacted me about it, and I look forward to feedback as they are implemented. ## Testing Now…. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/hd1-2-dimension.png) Peplink HD1 Dome dimensions – courtesy of Peplink.com **Peplink HD1 Dome CAT18 + SIM Injector** – Peplink came out with this a year or so ago, and has been recommending it for boats. There was even a [conversation recently in the comments](https://seabits.com/new-routers-antennas-under-test/#comment-8762) about using it on a sailboat. It has some very interesting benefits, but it will also require more hardware around it to work like a MAX Transit or other all-in-one router/AP device. It is also a lot more expensive ($2500 and up) and has some mounting challenges. So far the performance has been pretty even with the Peplink MAX Transit CAT18 and external Poynting antennas, but in some situations it performs better. I’m hoping to finish testing this in July since a number of folks have asked about it. Having to only run ethernet cabling to it is very, very nice, I must say…. It is not a 1 for 1 replacement of a MAX Transit and will require, at a minimum, an AP One Rugged or other indoor AP, plus potentially a switch or router depending on network topology. The ethernet splitter could be an interesting thing to combine with a MikroTik Groove, allowing a single device to power both the HD1 Dome and the MikroTik. We’ll see…. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/chateau-profile.jpg) MikroTik Chateau – front side **MikroTik Chateaux** – this is another new entry from MikroTik that has a lot of promise, even potentially more than the wAP ac LTE6\. It has a [CAT12 Quectel EG12 LTE modem](https://www.quectel.com/product/eg12.htm?ref=seabits.com) in it, a way to attach external antennas, 5 ethernet ports, and a dual band 2.4Ghz/5Ghz WiFi access point with included external antennas. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/chateau-back.jpg) MikroTik Chateau – back side The Chateau has the potential to be a powerful local wireless router with extra ethernet ports for wired devices, accepts a wide range of DC power, as most MikroTik products do, and has a very modern CAT12 modem in it for LTE. Even more important is the ability to connect pigtails from the LTE modem to the open expansion points you see above on the top of the picture, and then connect external antennas. So far my testing has just started, but I have not seen anything big missing other than PoE, which is a bit disappointing. If it had that, it could power your outdoor MikroTik Groove to use for grabbing remote WiFi signals, and you’d have a single power source, all MikroTik solution. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/11/Teltonika-RUTX11-cover-1024x768.jpeg) **Teltonika RUTX11** – I’ve been trying to get my hands on one of these ever since I heard about it earlier this year, and reader Tom Henderson mentioned he was installing one. Streakwave finally started carrying it, even though it is not 100% certified on all US carriers, and I have it in my hands and have barely begun testing. It has a CAT6 LTE radio, dual SIM slots, 4 ethernet ports, dual band 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz WiFi AP, and runs RutOS, which is based on OpenWRT, like the [GL-X1200 Amarok](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/). I’m interested to see how their operating system compares to the one GL.iNet has, and what level of access you have to OpenWRT. It could prove to be a very nice single radio, small form factor choice. ## Poynting OMNI-496 WiFi antenna preliminary results I’ve [tested the OMNI-400 and 402](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/), but I also wanted to get my hands on the OMNI-496, a similar form-factor marine-grade WiFi antenna that handles both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. I’ve been on the lookout for a good dual band WiFi antenna for a long time, and haven’t found any that have performed well. In fact, most absolutely suck at one band or the other, or have no marine mounts, which put them at risk of corrosion. Comrod makes a good 2.4Ghz antenna, but it is for that band only – I know several people who have this antenna and like it, and I dug one out for my testing. Altelix and other cheap manufacturers make dual band antennas, but my experience with them has been mediocre in most cases. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/Poynting-OMNI-496.jpeg) Poynting OMNI-496 For my configuration, I am using two OMNI-496 antennas, both connected to the WiFi ports on my Peplink MAX Transit CAT18\. I also have several Peplink AP One Rugged WiFi access points that are connected to the MAX Transit, providing the local WiFi networks on the boat. I’m not relying on the access points built into the MAX Transit locally. The idea is that I want to be able to use the antennas in two configurations: **WiFi capture configuration** – turning the integrated WiFi access point off in the MAX Transit, and using the WiFi as WAN functionality to have 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz sources for a remote WiFi signal. The goal with this testing is to see if having the MAX Transit as a central nexus for everything is a good solution, and whether it performs better than a dedicated MikroTik Groove. This would mean you could have one product to manage all of your WiFi sources, do not need to learn MikroTik and deal with connecting to it in various situations. **Long range local WiFi AP configuration** – this is a bit more interesting use case where I do have the access point turned on in the MAX Transit, and am not using WiFi as WAN. In this case, I want the OMNI-496s to broadcast my local WiFi network out around the boat as far as possible. This could be useful for folks who are outside the cabin areas, but more importantly, I want to see how far away I can still pick up the signal. I often times have other cruising boat friends near me, and they have in the past been able to glom off my WiFi network for access if they have an inferior system. Will this help them? Also, how far will it reach – could I go ashore near the boat and still be connected? ### **Results so far….** The results so far are very promising. When used in the WiFi capture configuration, where I’m using WiFi as WAN, the 2.4Ghz side performs just as well as the MikroTik and as well or better than the Comrod 2.4Ghz antenna. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/Peplink-MAX-Transit-CAT18-full-interfaces.png) Where it is outperforming everything else is in the 5Ghz range, which shouldn’t be a surprise given Poynting’s data sheet and test results on the OMNI-496\. In the screen shot above, I am roughly 1200 feet from the houses on shore, and am connected to a 5Ghz WiFi source. You can see below it that the 2.4Ghz signal is slightly better, but whenever possible, I always try to use 5Ghz given how much less interference there is with that spectrum. 1200 feet is a very long way for 5Ghz, and I have never consistently gotten this sort of performance on that band out of any antenna/combo/MikroTik. I’ve been using this for 2 weeks straight in the South Puget Sound, connecting to all manner of WiFi sources – from home routers to marina WiFi, and have seen consistently amazing performance on 5Ghz. Even though the 2.4Ghz signal is stronger, I am only getting about 2-3Mbps up/down from it. The 5Ghz connection is giving me around 10Mbps download and 4Mbps upload. I’m using that connection to write this article, and it is very reliable. I’ve used that same setup in various places for multiple Zoom meetings as well, and even though I’m rotating on anchor and moving around, I’ve maintained that signal enough for it to be viable. Very impressive for 5Ghz. The second configuration is still being tested, although preliminary results are also good. Near the boat, the outdoor WiFi signal is extremely strong. Further away is very subjective depending on the time of day, conditions, device I am using, etc. I have also been able to stay on WiFi longer when leaving in the dinghy, and even hung on a few times while on shore. I can already say that if you are looking for a dual-band WiFi antenna, the OMNI-496 is probably the best, if not the only marine-grade one, out there. If you plan on using it for grabbing remote WiFi signals, and don’t have a 5Ghz antenna, this is the one you should get. If you already have a 2.4Ghz antenna, I wouldn’t necessarily replace it unless you are unsatisfied with it. More data in a full review here in July. Same goes for all of the other routers, plus some of the ones I mentioned in the original article! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Bruce](http://neverforever.ca/?ref=seabits.com) [June 26, 2020 at 4:22 pm](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-109) Any suggestions for a cheap turn-key solution? There is a possibility that we may get a month or two on the boat in Sept/Oct but L will still have to “work from home.” So we are going to need a good signal for the occasional video conference and accessing the LMS. I’ve been looking at a couple of solutions but so far nothing seems to stand out. [Tjeerd Huitema](http://www.poynting.tech/?ref=seabits.com) [June 26, 2020 at 4:25 pm](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-108) Hi Steve, Great to hear you are receiving such great results with the Poynting OMNI-496\. A great picture you made to. In Europe the OMNI-496 is very popular, and we have good feedback too. Thanks for the good work you are doing! Enjoy your weekend! Evan Sorrell [July 2, 2020 at 4:13 am](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-105) Hi Steve, I really appreciate these reviews and knowledge sharing. One of the things I’m struck by though is that currently there’s a real dearth of reasonably priced carrier plans to support this equipment. Most folks in the space seem to be running one or several grandfathered data plans right now, but for those of us new to wanting these types of implementations we need to wait for the deals to come along. For now I’m considering using a Pepwave surf soho with marina (or other shore) wifi for WAN and a cell phone hotspot when shoreside wifi isn’t available. I’m not sure about using a Peplink AP One Rugged hot spot with it or not, I might need to depending on use/number of outside antennas. [Scott Lemon](https://www.wovyn.com/?ref=seabits.com) [July 6, 2020 at 2:33 am](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-102) Great blog, and I love all of the tech you are using. I’ve been following for quite a while, but now getting more serious as I’m both updating my travel trailer, and looking to buy my next boat. I’m curious what guidelines you use for antenna placement and spacing? The GL.iNet Amarok has two cellular antenna per modem … so did you install four antenna? Or just two (one modem) and with what spacing? Also, what coax are you using for the various antennas (cellular and Wifi)? Are you creating custom lengths and crimping your own connectors? I’m curious to see what you find with the Teltonika unit. Do you know what modem they are using in the North American version? Jon [July 11, 2020 at 6:37 pm](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-97) Steve – have you tried any of Poynting’s Puck series antennas? I’m particularly interested in possibly using one to connect to WiFi as WAN with my MaxTransit. Josh [July 16, 2020 at 3:45 pm](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-94) Love the reviews! I’m also trying to get better connectivity in Elliott Bay and was looking at the Teltonika RUTX11\. How is your review going? Massimo Sirolla [July 30, 2020 at 5:25 pm](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-85) Hi Steve, if I wanted to pursue having a single 4G router with Wifi-as-WAN abilities (for example the Teltonika RUTX11), and only wanted to have two external antennas, 1 for LTE (eg OMNI-291) and 1 for WiFi capture (eg OMNI-496), would I get good performance? In particular: 1) One single OMNI-496 attached to one of the wifi ports, would it operate on both 2.4 and 5 GHz? Meaning would I be able to capture wifi on both frequencies with a single OMNI-496 attached to a single wifi port? 2) Would the router then use only the other frequency for the internal access point? In that case, would I just attach a small internal antenna to the second wifi port? 3) Would it make a difference which wifi port I attach the external OMNI-496 to? Or does it figure it on its own? 4) Is there a 4G router that does wifi-as-wan better than others? I’m trying to avoid having two devices, such as router + Mikrotik Groove, if the performance is good enough. Many thanks! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 31, 2020 at 12:57 am](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-86) Hi Massimo, I’m not sure I can say whether you’d get “good” performance as that is somewhat subjective. It would be better performance than using indoor stock antennas but there are some caveats: 1\. No. I am not aware of any hardware that allows you to simultaneously capture both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz frequencies. There are a number of challenges hardware-wise that I don’t think have been solved – in particular, I don’t think there is a radio that can listen to both at the same time and process them independently. 2\. Sort of – you can’t do both simultaneously, but whatever you didn’t use outdoors would be available indoors. 3\. As far as I know a specific radio (2.4 or 5) is connected to a specific port, so you’d have to reverse engineer which one is which, and connect the outdoor antenna to the one you wanted to use. 4\. I’ve used it mostly on Peplink. I’ve tried it on many others and it works. I can’t say whether one is better than the other – it really depends on the antenna and radio. I know there are likely more features in the Peplink products than some of the others, but that doesn’t mean they perform better. You could figure out which port is 2.4Ghz on a given router and use that for an external antenna. You could use it either in only remote mode, or in hybrid mode (depending on the hardware) and then use the indoor one for 5Ghz only. Since 5Ghz doesn’t travel as far due to its design, that would likely be the best solution if you are trying to do something like this. However, 2.4Ghz might be compromised depending on how big your boat is, what it is made out of, interference, etc. Also, using a radio as an AP and as WiFi as WAN simultaneously, which I know you can do on Peplink (I’m not aware if you can on the others) has severe performance penalties. You’re essentially using one radio to do two things, so performance in terms of throughput is cut in half or more. It might be better to consider something where you use a Teltonika for nothing but your WAN/Internet source, leaving both the 2.4 and 5Ghz WiFi antennas on that unit to just pick up remote signals. You can swap the cable for the outdoor antenna back and forth depending on which band you want to use. You’ll most likely use 2.4 most of the time anyhow. Then add an indoor WiFi AP like the AP One Rugged from Peplink, or even just a cheaper Teltonika, GL.iNet or even mainline brands like Netgear, etc. for the internal WiFi network. That does require two pieces of gear, but the indoor WiFi one should hardly ever, if ever, change. You’d set your local network up and leave it alone, only tweaking the Teltonika. In terms of using a single outdoor LTE antenna and then one indoor LTE antenna, you’ll get good performance out of that, but not max throughput and diversity. It’s a good solution that I’ve used before when I only could fit one antenna outside. Paul Hempstead [August 11, 2020 at 3:09 am](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-78) Hey Steve – it seems as though you’ve struck upon an ideal solution with the Peplink MAX Transit CAT18 and the pair of Poynting 402 LTE antennas for cellular. That much seems clear (although I’m looking forwards to the connection specifics you mentioned!) However, I am a bit confused by the OMNI-496s. Unlike the 402 antenna which actually has two elements, it seems the 496 has a single element that can utilize 2.4 or 5Ghz, so the second antenna is redundant except that you want to broadcast your local WiFi around the boat. I can see there are two WiFi studs on the MAX Transit – is the idea that some people want to run dedicated 2.4 and 5Ghz antennas? My real question is: could I use one of the MAX Transit WiFi studs for a single 496 for improved WiFi capturing on both channels, and use the small stock antenna on the second WiFi stud to broadcast WiFi throughout the boat? I guess I am imagining having three antennas on the arch: two 402s for 4x MIMO, and one 496 for WiFi capture. The MAX Transit would then combine those to broadcast (via the stock antenna on the second WiFi stud) a local WiFi network that would combine the best that the three antennas could capture. Paul Hempstead [August 12, 2020 at 12:42 am](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-76) I see. So if you were using a single 496 antenna with the MAX Transit, the ‘dual band’ (2.4 or 5Ghz) functionality would never really be utilized, because you’d have to choose whether to plug it in to either the 2.4 or 5Ghz stud? It sounds like the fact that it’s a nice antenna is more important than the fact that it can work on either band, at least in this application. From your description, I agree it does sound like the separate One Rugged AP would be necessary for WiFi broadcast, and that the two studs on the back should solely be used for receiving. BTW – thanks so much for your clear and concise explanations, and for taking the time to respond. I feel like I’ve learned in three days of reading your site what would otherwise have taken months! Massimo Sirolla [August 17, 2020 at 9:15 am](https://seabits.com/more-router-testing-and-initial-results-on-the-omni-496/#comment-71) Steve, I understand from the Poynting website that the OMNI-402 has 2 ports, covering all LTE bands and 2.4Ghz wifi. So what’s wrong with a setup that uses one OMNI-291 (connected to LTE main), and an OMNI-402 connected to LTE aux and to the WiFi 2.4 Ghz port? This way with just two antennas, I’d have the best possible LTE coverage, plus excellent 2.4 Ghz wifi coverage for WIFI as WAN (on 2.4 Ghz only). Not cheap, but sounds quite efficient to me (if it works). This could be coupled with a Peplink router, or even the Teltonika RUTX11, which is much easier to find in Europe. I could then try using the 5Ghz wifi port with an internal antenna for AP, or if the performance is poor, I could just attach a separate AP. But I’m more interested in hearing what you think of the two Poynting antennas, serving three ports. Many thanks for your support 🙂 ### GL-X1200 Amarok Dual LTE router URL: https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:08:15.000Z [GL.iNet](https://www.gl-inet.com/?ref=seabits.com) is a company that has made a number of OpenWRT based routers that seem to be very popular. Commenter Owen Anderson suggested I check out some of their newer hardware, and I have been testing the [GL-X1200 “Amarok” router](https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-x1200/?ref=seabits.com) and am pretty pleased with the results. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-box.jpeg) I ordered the unit from GL.iNet’s online store and it took about a week for it to be shipped to me via Hong Kong. I did not have to pay any customs duties, but depending on where you live, you could have to deal with this, so do your research. ## Hardware The GL-X1200 has the following specs: - 1x WAN ethernet ports - 4x LAN ethernet ports - USB port - SD card slot - 2x SIM slots - 2x LTE module slots - 2.4Ghz + 5Ghz WiFi AP using 802.11b/g/n/ac - Industrial design All of this for about $420 which is a fantastic value. You’re getting dual LTE radios, 2.4+5Ghz dual band WiFi, built in switch with LAN and WAN ports, and USB and SD card slots. That’s a lot of hardware for the money…. A somewhat comparable Peplink device would be double the cost, and not have any switch ports, USB port, or SD card slot. An almost direct apples-to-apples comparison would be anywhere between $2000-6000 depending on the LTE radios, so you can understand why I’m excited by the hardware. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-bottom-sticker-2.jpeg) I chose two different LTE modules, each with their own benefits. This is another nice thing to be able to choose, rather than getting two of the same (or one) or two different combos that might not work for you. The two modules I chose were both made by Quectel and are below: [EP06-A](https://www.quectel.com/product/EP06.htm?ref=seabits.com) – CAT6 modem that supports LTE-A and carrier aggregation. It does not support T-Mobile, but does have higher bandwidth than the EC25 modem below. Bands: B2/B4/B5/B7/B12/B13/B25/B26/B29/B30/B66 Carriers: Verizon/AT&T/Sprint/Rogers [EC25-AF](https://www.quectel.com/product/ec25.htm?ref=seabits.com) – CAT4 modem that supports FirstNet and Band 71, which could be very useful for longer distance connections to T-Mobile in areas where that is available. Bands: B2/B4/B5/B12/B13/B14/B66/B71 Carriers: Verizon/AT&T/T-Mobile/Rogers/U.S. Cellular/Telus/Bell. Both modules were installed by the factory before the unit was shipped. Besides the modules above, you can order versions of both of the EP06 and the EC25 for various countries and carriers around the world, and there’s also an EC20 for China. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-power-supplies.jpeg) The included power supply is 48V and has a 4 pin connector and allows some level of power over ethernet, although I did not test that. You can also run it off of 12V directly although PoE is not available then. A power connector is not included to wire it directly into 12V, but you could lop off the one from the power supply. You can also power the whole thing via PoE but that has to be connected to the WAN port, and it limits you from using PoE out on the switch itself too. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-front.jpeg) The front of the unit has connections for the secondary LTE module, a GPS antenna connector, and LEDs for everything. In addition, it has the USB port, SD card slot, and the SIM slots. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-left-side.jpeg) The USB port can be used for storage or an LTE connected device. You can use the USB port or SD card slot to share files and hard drives on the network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-right-side-sim-card.jpeg) The SIM slots are some of the nicest I’ve seen on a router lately – easy to eject using a pencil or paperclip, and they come with a tray that you can put your full size SIM (or adapter) into. They slide in and out easily, and don’t require any special tool to remove. Right next to them are the LEDs for WiFi and LTE radios so you know if there is traffic and on what. They blink based on activity which is an interesting choice but somewhat useful. Most routers I’ve seen don’t include LTE signal level LEDs or indicate activity. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-back.jpeg) The back of the unit has antenna ports for the primary LTE module and 2.4/5Ghz WiFi. In addition, there is a serial console port, reset button, LAN and WAN ports, ground screw, and the power connector. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-inside.jpeg) Inside looks pretty well organized with antenna wiring going back and forth. The big black item is a set of heatsinks on the CPUs and the LTE and WiFi radios. The LTE radios are on the right. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-inside-radios.jpeg) Here you can see the two LTE modules and related antenna connections. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-front-with-antennas-boat.jpeg) In general, the hardware appears to be well designed, industrial quality and is designed to handle pretty extreme temperatures from -4 to +131 F (-20\~55 C). It has a heft to it – quite heavy actually compared to other similar products – and can be mounted on a wall using the slots on the back of the unit. The CPU is Qualcomm’s [QCA9531](https://www.qualcomm.com/products/qca9531?ref=seabits.com) and was always speedy while I used the unit. It also has 128MB of memory and a combo 16MB flash + 128MB storage for the operating system and such. The fact that you get a switch with gigabit ports, 2x LTE radios, 2.4+5Ghz WiFi, dual SIM slots, and all in a nice hardened package is quite a good value for the price. ## Software This is where some of the savings in cost is apparent. That’s not to say the software isn’t usable or doesn’t have features similar to Peplink or Cradlepoint, it’s just not as polished as those vendors. There are some features that are missing or are very limited compared to those other vendors – I can’t think of a particular feature in the GL-X1200 Amarok that is better than the competitors, but that could be OK for your use case depending on what you’re looking for. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/setup-screen-1.png) The software is built off of an open source router project called [OpenWRT](https://openwrt.org/?ref=seabits.com) which has been around a long time. It is usually used by more tech-focused folks who want full control over their hardware and don’t want a vendors extra UI and bloat in their devices. In this case, GL.iNet has added their own UI elements to OpenWRT, but under the covers it is still using the base packages. You can even reload this with OpenWRT or build your own firmware version, although I haven’t had time to play with that. You can find the manual at [https://static.gl-inet.com/www/images/products/gl-x1200/GL-X1200\_user-manual.pdf](https://static.gl-inet.com/www/images/products/gl-x1200/GL-X1200%5Fuser-manual.pdf?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/internet-connected-tmobile.png) The dashboard is well made and shows all of the different devices and connectivity options and their status. Above you can see I am connected via T-Mobile using SIM slot 2 and LTE modem 2, although (surprisingly) you can use either SIM from either modem. You can also see there is one WiFi client. The details about the connection are a bit sparse, which is the case with most of the UI for many elements. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/internet-scrolled-down.png) If I scroll down a bit more, you can see setup wizards for a WAN cabled connection, turning the WiFi radios into a repeater/bridge, and for connecting an LTE device via USB. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/manual-lte-setup.png) Setting up the LTE modems and SIMs is not automatic. You have to click the Automatic button (didn’t work for me) or click Manual Setup and enter your provider APN and potentially change the modem raw device. You can also issue AT commands directly to the modem, reset it, and get even deeper at the command line. This is where things start to show some rough edges, as you definitely need to know a bit about OpenWRT if you have an odd provider who needs the modem to operate a particular way, use logins, different APNs or other settings. This is mostly automated for you in Peplink or Cradlepoint. I’m not saying this is a bad thing, and as a tech nerd myself, I prefer it this way so I have absolute control over things. But if you are expecting to plug and play with this router, this particular part definitely requires some research. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/cell-info.png) Once your LTE connection comes up, you can look at the “Cells Info” which shows details on how the radio is connected. In this case, I was using the EC25 modem with T-Mobile, and it connected with a full LTE connection. You can see the offered upload/download bandwdith, cell IDs and lots of other fun info on signal levels in case you want to geek out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/cell-info-neighbor.png) You can also see the aggregated connections in the case where multiple channels are being bonded. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/wifi.png) Setting up the WiFi radios is very easy. The software allows you to setup two networks on each frequency, one for normal traffic, and one as a guest network complete with an optional portal and other features. You can input your own network names, choose security, passwords, whether the network is hidden, a channel (or auto, which I didn’t see work all the time) a speed, and transmit power. In all, this part of the web interface is really streamlined and offers everything basic to moderate users should need. You can go to the command line (later below) and do even more damage if you want. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/clients-detailed.png) You can see a list of all of the connected clients, and if you enable the radio button at the top right, you can see more details about the clients, and even put in traffic limits, what is commonly called QoS or Quality of Service. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/qos-settings.png) For instance, I could set overall limits on this client and ensure they don’t take too much bandwidth. I cover a lot of options for doing this in [Managing Internet Usage on your Boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/), where I go into more depth on how you can identify and control things that will kill your limited LTE connection when you’re out and about. This feature is the basic version, and requires that you set these limits on each client manually, which isn’t as good as some of the more advanced methods, but it is nice to see the option. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/firewall.png) There’s a nice firewall, although it likely won’t be used that much if you only ever use an LTE connection for your internet source. LTE providers hide the network addresses you’re issued behind so many devices, you really can’t open up a port or a service for remote devices. VPNs are better for that nowadays anyhow, and more safe in many ways. However, there is a full firewall that you can add rules to if needed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/openvpn.png) Speaking of VPNs – the Amarok has a number of them available, which is really nice to see. My personal favorite is OpenVPN because it is open source and available for just about anything out there. I use it to VPN in remotely to my network from my Mac, iPhone, Android phone and Windows PCs. They also include WireGuard, another VPN service that I have not used before, but looks very simple to setup. Both of these VPN solutions could allow you to have this router connect to your home or to a cloud server so you could always access your boat network remotely. Under Applications are all of the various OpenWRT packages that are installed, and you can manage them from there, although I wouldn’t imagine many people would mess with this. There’s also an Upgrade item in the menu that allows you to get new firmware versions from GL.iNet if you’re online, or upload new ones manually. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/filesharing.png) I’ve never had good luck using a router to do file sharing – their performance always suffers with large files or anything intensive. However, on a boat, it might be nice to have a central place to back up critical PDFs, boat records, and other things like that. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/remote-access.png) Remote access allows you to use GL.iNet’s GoodCloud remote management system (more below) and/or Dynamic DNS so your router always has a hostname you can use to reach it remotely. Dynamic DNS won’t work with most LTE providers, or it won’t really be useful rather – same reason as above with public IPs, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/goodcloud-device.png) GoodCloud is a cloud service where you can login to their system and see your router(s) all in one dashboard. This allows you to see information about uptime, performance, who is connected, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/goodcloud-client-list.png) You have to opt in to this service, sign up for a free account, and add the router using some of the details on the sticker on the bottom of the unit. The information that is sent up to GoodCloud is pretty simple, and it won’t allow you to connect to the router remotely and manage it. It’s pretty basic at this point, but I would not be surprised if they are adding to it. Peplink and Cradlepoint have extensive cloud management systems which allow you to manage almost all aspects of the router remotely, and are great for managing multiple devices. The best feature though is being able to remotely connect to the router in the event of a catastrophic issue both by you and by support. It would be great to see GoodCloud add this. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/more-settings.png) There are a ton of other settings including admin passwords, changing the local LAN IP, timezones, and more. You can also change the network mode, which was part of one of the wizards on the dashboard as well. If you click on Advanced, you’re taken to LuCI, which is the OpenWRT web interface. I’ve had hit or miss performance with this – sometimes taking several minutes to load. It doesn’t provide much functionality, but if you prefer OpenWRT, you know what you can do with it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/ssh.png) The other method of managing the router is via SSH. Using the username “root” and the admin password you setup, you can connect directly in. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/ssh-commands.png) Just like in OpenWRT, there are ton of commands you can use to do everything you saw in the web interface, and even more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/ssh-iwinfo.png) For instance, you can query the WiFi radios and see how they’re setup, what transmit power they’re broadcasting at, and a lot more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/06/ssh-get-signal-info.png) You could use a more complicated query like the above to ask the modem what the signal level was. This opens up a lot of opportunities for automation and data gathering that aren’t as easy to do on other products. You could use a script to record the signal information every few minutes to build a picture of how a particular antenna was performing, or change WAN/LTE devices based on SignalK things happening on your boat. If you’re an automation or command line nerd, this router is definitely something to look at. ## Testing I used the GL-X1200 for a couple of weeks as my primary device on the boat, as well as at home for a while just to test different locations. I used both the provided antennas for the LTE connection as well as the OMNI-400 and OMNI-402 external antennas from Poynting. I had no issues, disconnects, or problems with the local WiFi radios. 2.4Ghz devices connected and were stable, which can sometimes be a problem for OpenWRT devices. 5Ghz devices had no issue either. I had the guest network running as well (without a portal or captive page – that’s just rude to my guests!) and it worked great too. I used my [MikroTik Groove](https://seabits.com/?s=mikrotik+groove) on the WAN port to connect to remote WiFi networks which worked flawlessly, as expected. I tested the LTE radios with T-Mobile and Verizon and had no issues, other than getting the configuration right initially with the APNs and modem info. I wasn’t able to figure out the exact logic of failover. ## Conclusion I was really pleased with the quality of the hardware and the amount of ports, options and connectivity you get for the money. Being able to have dual LTE radios, both 2.4 and 5Ghz WiFi along with physical ethernet ports is quite a good deal considering the overall price. This could be the hub of an entire boat network with quite a bit of redundancy in terms of how you get internet connectivity. The software does not have as many features or options as the other bigger vendors out there, but for many people it will be more than enough. Configuring WiFi is dead simple, setting up the LTE connection takes a bit longer, but once both are done, you would not really need to mess with it. It’s nice to see features for file sharing, and lots of options for VPNs. The other weird thing that I still want to figure more out about is failover For someone who wants an all-in-one, industrial grade router with dual LTE modems, good WiFi, switch, and doesn’t need lots of failover or bells and whistles in the software features, this is a great choice. For an automation or command line nerd, this is an excellent solution that could really open up some fun options for connectivity aboard. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Owen Anderson [June 7, 2020 at 12:03 am](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-122) Glad to hear it worked reasonably well for you! I’ve been trying out its smaller cousin, the GL-X750\. For what it’s worth, the “Automatic” setup has worked fine for me with both my Verizon and my T-Mobile SIMs. I did install the latest firmware before testing, so maybe that made a difference. David Geller [June 7, 2020 at 5:11 am](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-121) Another awesome post! Gavin Gee [June 18, 2020 at 4:15 am](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-116) Oh dear Steve. you have me reaching for my credit card again! Gavin Gee [June 18, 2020 at 4:17 am](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-115) Do you have any recommendations for content to read to learn more about the modems for US cell service providers? Jeff Few [June 24, 2020 at 10:02 pm](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-112) Thanks for this immensely thoughtful and detailed review. I’m tempted to buy one of these to build out a network on my 38′ Tollycraft Mariner! (OpenWRT, FTW!) But is there a different router you’d recommend if dual LTE isn’t a requirement (only planning on using a single T-Mobile SIM for opportunistic LTE connectivity) and I need PoE support via the WAN port to connect/power a Mikrotik Groove? Also, I noticed the manufacturer offers the EC25 in A and AF flavors (the latter supporting “North America FirstNet” for “first responders”?) as well as an EP06-A that supports T-Mobile (your article suggests EP06 is a no-go on TMO). If I go for a GL-X1200, I assume I want an EC25-AF and EP06-A? Or does it make sense to equip with the two NA flavors of EC25 as a T-Mobile only subscriber? Chris H [July 8, 2020 at 10:27 pm](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-98) Want to add that with an EP06-ALA module, my AT&T SIM card worked like a charm using Auto Setup. Also, for tech support [https://forum.gl-inet.com/](https://forum.gl-inet.com/?ref=seabits.com) is pretty active and has 4+ years of history to dig into. Pretty solid system. - Eric H [July 23, 2021 at 1:46 pm](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-3637) Really? I have an AT&T SIM in the same module and it will not configure at all no matter what I try. Weird.. Jeff Few [July 31, 2020 at 8:57 pm](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-84) Just going to leave this here for anyone else encountering Wi-Fi connectivity issues with the June 2020 X1200 firmware: I found maintaining reliable connectivity between router and Wi-Fi devices over both 2.4 GHz and 5GHz networks to be extremely fragile. DHCP leases would be issued to devices able to connect to the Wi-Fi network, but requests to any host (including the router’s management console) consistently fail after about 15-30 minutes of router uptime. GL.iNet quickly responded with access to their beta firmware for X1200 Amarok, which seems very stable. I’ve had reliable and uninterrupted connectivity from every part of my boat since upgrading earlier today: [http://download.gl-inet.com/firmware/x1200/testing/](http://download.gl-inet.com/firmware/x1200/testing/?ref=seabits.com) Nashi Nash [September 2, 2020 at 11:20 pm](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-66) Hello EP06 would work with Tmobile but jut not connect to 71 band. Is that what they mean by saying Tmobile not supported? Can you confirm this by switching sim card? if that’s the case then we may well be using it for LTE A for the other bands. Band 71 is may not be necessary for some of us. Diana Moorehouse [July 22, 2021 at 9:37 am](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-3633) Thanks for the review! Did you test with a voice+data sim from T-Mobile? Wonder if this modem will work with my One Plus account as it’s just a cat 4 modem. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 25, 2021 at 10:55 pm](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/#comment-3640) I am pretty sure the TMO plan I used to test was a data+voice plan. ### New routers & antennas under test URL: https://seabits.com/new-routers-antennas-under-test/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:09:24.000Z There has been a lot going on lately, and I wanted to provide an update on what I am working on and testing. My primary focus has been on internet connectivity aboard which has become even more important with the current world situation. I have spent a lot of time helping folks get better connected, and stay connected in more remote places which has caused some delays in my writing. I have several new routers I have been testing, new antennas for LTE and WiFi, and more! ## New Routers I have been testing a number new routers, and have several more on the way. Here’s just a brief overview of what I’m testing with some notes – more detailed articles will be published on some of them. Many of the routers have Category 18 radios in them which are the latest and greatest, and in particular, support Band 71, which is poised to become a big benefit for those of us who use T-Mobile while boating. ### Peplink MAX Transit CAT18 Peplink came out with an updated version of their MAX Transit line sporting CAT18 modems. It only has a single modem, and if you look at the top of the unit, you’ll see why. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/Peplink-MAX-Transit-CAT18-antenna-ports.jpeg) CAT18 requires 4 antennas, 2 more than the modem types before it. If you have a MAX Transit DUO you’re familiar with this layout as that product has two radios in it, requiring 4 antennas – one primary, and one diversity for each radio. This is one of the reasons that the MAX Transit line has not been updated with a CAT18 DUO unit – there’s just not enough space for 8x LTE antennas! This brings up an interesting discussion about cabling, antennas, and boosters for CAT18 and 5G products. Is anyone going to be happy running 8x cables 20 feet through small spaces on their boat for a dual LTE radio device? Are there alternatives? I’ve been exploring this a lot lately, and will provide more updates in follow on posts. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/Peplink-CAT18-Verizon.png) So far, the Peplink MAX Transit CAT18 has been a high performing router. On both T-Mobile and Verizon, I have seen very stable download/upload rates in moderate to high signal areas – what has surprised me is the performance in the moderate signal areas. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/Speedtest-Verizon-Peplink-CAT18.jpeg) Verizon speedtest The above Speedtest result is pretty typical for Verizon anywhere I have been in the last few weeks – 40-50Mbps download, and 2-5Mbps upload. This is using a single outdoor antenna on port 1 of the router, with 3 additional indoor antennas, or with no outdoor antennas at all. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/T-Mobile-Speedtest-CAT18.png) T-Mobile speedtest Here’s a test with T-Mobile in the same location, and the results are also pretty typical of what I have seen the last few weeks when I have a moderate to good signal. That’s pretty good performance compared to the older routers and non CAT18 stuff I have tested. I’m looking forward to even more testing with 2-4 outdoor antennas to see the true full performance of this unit. ### Cradlepoint IBR1700 CAT18 Cradlepoint is Peplink’s primary competitor, and while I have used their stuff in the past, the cost and UI/feature issues have always driven me away. When I saw the specs for the IBR1700, I was intrigued and interested in the product. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/Cradlepoint-IBR1700-antenna-ports.jpeg) In general, this hardware is top notch, with some features at this price point Peplink doesn’t offer, such as dedicated WiFi as WAN ports, switch ports, and a really well designed modular chassis – you can add a second radio in a slot, which is nice for future modem upgrades/expandability. The Cradlepoint is around $1500, while a similar Peplink offering is almost $7000! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/Cradlepoint-IBR1700-switch-wifi.jpeg) The unit is quite large, at least 3x the Peplink MAX Transit, but the power of the WiFi radios and additional 4x antennas over the Peplink are an excellent tradeoff. You can configure all 6 of the WiFi antennas in different modes, which is very flexible for a boat install. My preferred setup is to use 4x antennas for my internal WiFI network, which is 2x more antennas and more channels / throughput than the Peplink, and then leverage the other two antenna ports for outside WiFi as WAN sources. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/Cradlepoint_NCOS.png) The achilles heel of Cradlepoint is the software. Compared to Peplink, it’s just not as easy to use. There are features they have that Peplink does not (OpenVPN!) and vise versa, but Peplink’s overall integrated solution with their UI, inControl Cloud, and products like Fusion are simply easier to use. A lot of the terms they use for setting up connections are confusing enough that you have to go research what it means, and many of the defaults are setup in ways that won’t provide failover, monitoring, or any of the other basics you would assume. One big concern is support for T-Mobile – after multiple support cases and forum posts, I was unable to get my T-Mobile SIM to work with the router. Cradlepoint says I need to have T-Mobile change my plan, but I am apprehensive to do that to a plan I am grandfathered in that has amazing features. In addition, it appears that the router itself was not fully approved by any US carrier at the time of this writing. Unfortunately issues getting T-Mobile to work has prevented me from testing Band 71 support. I’m still on the fence as to whether this might become my primary system for the next year. It has a very powerful CAT18 radio, a second one can be added for around $600, and it has an amazingly powerful WiFi antenna and radio setup. It also has a built in switch, which could eliminate the one I use on board, saving a bit more space, wiring and power. But the certification issues, and compatibility with T-Mobile need to be resolved, and would I be OK with a slightly clunkier software for all of this? Not sure yet… ### MikroTik wAP ac LTE6 It’s no secret that I love the [MikroTik Groove](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/), and MikroTik have released more LTE products in recent months. I got my hands on a [wAP ac LTE6](https://mikrotik.com/product/wap%5Fac%5Flte6%5Fkit?ref=seabits.com) and have been testing it for a while. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/MikroTik-hAP-AC-LTE6.jpeg) This is a single unit that can be mounted in a number of different ways both inside and outside. This could be a really good option for someone who can mount it outside and away from interference, as it would not require external antennas. It is extremely well built, with an aluminum base that is very sturdy and probably acts as a heat sink, antennas in the sides of the unit, and a sliding cover that has an ingenious locking mechanism. The software is always the achilles heel with MikroTik, and this unit runs the same version as everything else. I was able to get it to connect to T-Mobile via LTE rather easily, but I did have to enter APN details and do a few other things to get going. There is a very useful mode on the Quickset page called “LTE AP” which sets up the system to be an access point using LTE as the internet source. Powering the unit can be done by the included PoE injector, power brick, or another source of PoE power. As with many other MikroTik products, it supports a wide range of input power – the DC jack can take 10-57 volts. The unit also has 2 ethernet ports which can be used as LAN, WAN, PoE or any combo, although you’ll have to get used to configuring bridges and such in their software. There are two knock out holes in the case that would allow you to use a connector to run external LTE antennas in the event you wanted to mount this inside and run outdoor antennas, or mount the entire thing outside, and use higher gain LTE antennas. For $189, this is a fantastic value for an LTE router with a dual band 2.5/5Ghz local access point, very powerful WiFi radios, a CAT6 modem, and options for mounting and external antennas. ### GL-X1200 Amarok A reader suggested I check out this company after having used their smaller mobile hotspot products. I’ve ordered the [GL-X1200 “Amarok”](https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-x1200/?ref=seabits.com) router which looks very promising as a mid-level but quite powerful solution. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/05/X1200_1.jpg) It has dual radios, dual SIM card slots, 2.4 & 5Ghz local WiFi, ethernet switch built in, and a well built chassis. The most interesting thing to me is that it runs [OpenWRT](https://openwrt.org/?ref=seabits.com) which is a Linux-based operating system that has existed for many years, targeted at embedded systems like a WiFi router. Apparently GL.iNet have skinned it with some custom UI stuff, but the rest is stock, which means things like OpenVPN and other fun features that have been in OpenWRT are native. I chose two different modems for the unit, a category 4 modem that supports the new T-Mobile band 71, and a category 6 modem that has some nice performance specs. It is coming from Hong Kong, so it will take a bit to make its way here for testing, but I will definitely be writing about this one as it is could be a very cost-effective way of getting a dual LTE device on board. [GL-X1200 Amarok Dual LTE routerThe GL.iNet GL-X1200 Amarok router is a great dual-LTE device with lots of hardware, dual-band WiFi, and OpenWRT-inspired software.![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/GL-X1200-amarok-front-with-antennas-boat.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/gl-x1200-amarok-dual-lte-router/) ## New Antennas ### Poynting OMNI-402 with CAT18 Along the lines of the routers and antenna ports I mentioned above, one of the things I am focusing on over the next few months is testing various solutions that can support CAT18 and 5G routers. The challenge is the number of antenna ports and required cables, antennas, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-OMNI-402-2.jpg) I tested the OMNI-402 on a CAT6 Peplink MAX Transit earlier this year and found that the OMNI-400 was likely a better solution given that the 402 was more focused on diversity for a dual antenna setup. However, with a CAT18 setup and 4 antenna ports, there are a couple of approaches. You can use 4 individual antennas, which would likely be the best solution, but be quite a lot of space. You could use a single OMNI-400 and a booster, but in metro areas where the booster shuts down or makes things worse, you’re stuck either using a single antenna with 4 ports, or just using the factory installed local antennas. You can also use “puck” style antennas that have an octopus of cables, and some which have 4x antennas inside a very small enclosure. My experience with these has been very bad, as you can see in [Best LTE antenna and booster for the boat](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/). Granted, this was a couple of years ago, but nothing I’ve seen since then convinces me that these antennas would be better. There are several companies working on new ones, but they aren’t available yet in most places, and are $500+ for the antenna alone. The best solution I’ve come up with so far is to use two OMNI-402 antennas, cross wired to the various modem ports on the CAT18 devices. Poynting themselves have been very helpful in providing detailed information on how they would connect it, the expected benefits/challenges, and I’m looking forward to some good testing here. ### Poynting OMNI-496 – outdoor WiFi I have been searching for an outdoor 2.4 and/or 5Ghz WiFi antenna for a long time. Many are single band, extremely expensive, and have only a moderate gain. The [Poynting OMNI-496](https://poynting.tech/product/omni-496/?ref=seabits.com) is quite a bit different – not only is it dual band, but the gain and radiation patterns are quite impressive. Why, you ask, do I want an outdoor WiFi antenna? While I love the MikroTik Groove, I have always dreamt of a system where remote WiFi was integrated, given how challenging it is to use the Groove, and the fact that it is a separate piece of software. In a perfect world, I’d love to use the WiFi as WAN feature in Peplink/Cradlepoint and have two nice outdoor antennas cabled to it so that I can choose between various LTE and WiFi as WAN options based on one dashboard / product. The Poynting OMNI-496 might finally make this a reality, which is very exciting! ## More Stuff… I’m still working on a number of other articles such as my Furuno system, an Internet Getting Started article, more tips on MikroTik, my Wallas Heater install, and more. If you’re interested in something in particular, please drop me a note! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Shawn Hammer [May 27, 2020 at 1:34 am](https://seabits.com/new-routers-antennas-under-test/#comment-131) Hey Steve, great stuff as always. I just received my MAX Transit Cat18 today and now face the antenna question. It’s going in my Meridian 490/Bayliner 4788 and I’m cruising the same waters as you – we’re on G dock at Shilshole. You like the Poynting 400 more than the 402 but that means I’m 4 antennae mounted somewhere up top and 4 cables through the already packed conduits. I’m not opposed – in fact, I’m the sort of sick SoB who will do that because it would be measurably better than putting up 2x 402. So, where would I want to mount the antennae? 2 on each side of the arch split across the inputs? How much do they care about VHF or radar? Do I also need to give them elevation separation? Shawn Hammer [May 27, 2020 at 2:24 am](https://seabits.com/new-routers-antennas-under-test/#comment-207) Thanks for the quick reply Steve. I think that makes a lot of sense and I rather not pull that many cables. Any chance you have an affiliate link for the omni-402? Tony D [May 28, 2020 at 5:25 pm](https://seabits.com/new-routers-antennas-under-test/#comment-127) Great article, great site content all around! As a new boat owner I’m very interested in an ‘Internet Getting Started’ article. My boat – C-Dory 22 has a wallas stove/heater in it, so far so good. andrzej koltun [June 20, 2020 at 12:24 pm](https://seabits.com/new-routers-antennas-under-test/#comment-114) Steve, got the MicroTic you mention and will use it on T-Mobile. Running into config questions regarding APN and PIN settings. Can you describe what they refer to or what you used for it to work with a T-Mobile SIM? David de Regt [November 2, 2020 at 2:14 am](https://seabits.com/new-routers-antennas-under-test/#comment-42) Digging through your older posts for more info on the various things at hand, and saw that you were testing an IBR1700\. This is what we’ve had on the boat for the last year or so (I got the normal 1700, and the CAT18 add-in modem). I’ve been fighting with it the whole time. The software is glitchy as hell, the router itself crashes and reboots fairly often, and we’ve even had hardware issues. They’ve cross shipped us 3 different 1700s to try to resolve issues in the 8 months we’ve been living on the boat! Curious how your testing of the unit is going so far? Funny to find this post, when I’m desperately yearning for greener pastures and hoping that Peplink is my answer. ### Virtual Happy Hour & Tech Talk URL: https://seabits.com/happy-hour/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T15:10:26.000Z I think we are all missing the social aspect of owning a boat – chatting with other boat owners about projects, harrowing adventures, and everything in between. While we can’t all get together like we normally would, I’m going to try a virtual version, hoping that you will join me! ## When? Saturday, April 11th 6:00PM Pacific Daylight Time ## Where? For the most interactive experience, join via Zoom so you can share your video and audio, chat with other participants, etc. [Register for Happy Hour Here](https://zoom.us/meeting/register/tJcrcu6vpjotTvpdQ36D2M1CXKGZ1a9kPw?ref=seabits.com) If you prefer to just watch and type, you can find a [live stream on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlvHnLh6YBo&ref=seabits.com). ## Agenda **Introductions** – Who are you? Where are you? What are you drinking? And most importantly, what type of boat do you have? **Your Quarantine Project** – pick the most important/biggest/most interesting project you’re working on now. Tech or electronic ones would be interesting for the audience. Post a one sentence description in chat, and I’ll pick some that we can all discuss. **Staying Connected on the Water –** one of the most requested things of me personally – we’ll cover some basics and take questions. **General Q&A** – post your question in chat and we’ll get to as many as possible! ## Other times? If this goes well, I’d like to try a few more at differing times so that folks from other countries/time zones can join as well! I’m always looking for an excuse for an 8AM (my local time) happy hour! ### Real-time weather from the boat URL: https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:10:22.000Z I’ve always dreamt of having real-time weather from the boat while I am away, and for analyzing trends after a day of being on the water. Most of the attempts I’ve made in the past have used stations and instruments that were meant for a fixed location which have issues on a boat. I’ve found a few new ways to do this which have me really excited. ## The Hardware The biggest challenge using a home-style weather station is that it is not meant to be on a moving platform. I wrote about using an [Ambient Weather station with weeWX software](https://seabits.com/weather-boat-via-weewx-ambient/) a few years ago, and that is still a great solution if you want accurate data only while away from the boat. However, I wanted weather data no matter where I was. In particular, I wanted very accurate wind and temperature data from multiple data points – apparent & true wind direction and speed, and inside, outside, engine room temperatures. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/220wx.jpg) After considering a number of options, I settled on an [Airmar WX-220](http://www.airmartechnology.com/weather-description.html?id=153&ref=seabits.com) NMEA 2000 instrument. This device reports apparent and true wind speed and direction, barometric pressure, as well as air and wind chill temperature. It also has a GPS, compass, gyro and accelerometer. The Airmar has been around a while, and is not that new technology-wise, but it is very well supported by various software and solutions, which is important for my use case. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Airmar-mounted-768x1024.jpeg) I mounted the Airmar on an extension pole up above all of my other instruments on the arch. I wanted it up high to get out of any wind effects from other things nearby. ## SignalK The backbone of my entire system is SignalK. It is connected to my NMEA 2000 network and gathers all of the data from the Airmar. Then, two different plugins take that data and allow the solutions below to work. ## Windy.com [Windy.com](https://windy.com/?ref=seabits.com) is a great resource for seeing an easily understandable graphical representation of wind and waves. In addition to PredictWind, Windy is one of the top tools I use when planning passages and weather. A fairly new plugin called [signalk-windy](https://github.com/itemir/signalk-windy?ref=seabits.com#readme) is available and allows you to take weather data right out of SignalK and submit it to Windy.com. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/signalk-windy.png) The setup is pretty easy – you need to setup an account on Windy.com and get an API key. Put the API key in the plugin config field, set your station ID to 0, and make sure you have the derived data plugin installed as well. Data will start flowing to Windy and after a day or so, you should start to see details. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Windy-data-1024x652.png) You can see my station at [Rendezvous PWS](https://www.windy.com/station/pws-f0717799?47.630,-122.396,8&ref=seabits.com). It updates every 5 minutes or so, and the station location moves as the boat does, which is perfect! The plugin supports sending wind speed, wind direction, temperature, pressure and humidity. ## Grafana + InfluxDB I’ve written about this combo before, but I’ve taken the configuration to the next step, and find that I use this more than any other setup, both on the boat, and remotely to check on things. This configuration uses the [signalk-to-influxdb](https://github.com/tkurki/signalk-to-influxdb?ref=seabits.com) plugin, which you can setup with the provided instructions using docker. I decided to set it up a different way, based on how it was originally packaged. This plugin takes data from SignalK and spits it out to a time-series database product named [Influx](https://www.influxdata.com/?ref=seabits.com). You don’t have to be a database administrator to use it – it’s very simple to install on a Linux system and leave it to run and gather data in the background. Overview video of the dashboards and setup The second part of this setup is [Grafana](https://grafana.com/?ref=seabits.com), an open source dashboard and graphing tool. It’s power is in the ability to interface with an Influx database and let you build powerful graphs and displays without being a programmer. Grafana can also be easily installed on a Linux system, in this case, the same one I have running SignalK and Influx. After configuring Grafana to use the Influx database, it’s time to build a graph. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-query-temp.png) You start with a query, and can see all of the data that SignalK has sent over to Influx. In this example, I’m going to graph outside temperature. You can search for data (there is a lot of it sent over from my network) by typing a few letters in the FROM box. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-initial-graph-1024x552.png) After choosing data in your query, the graph at the top of the screen will show you example data to confirm things look good. You can see above we have an issue because the temperature appears to be 280 degrees – NMEA 2000 temps are stored in Kelvin for some crazy reason. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-kelvin-to-f.png) I googled the formula to convert Kelvin to Fahrenheit and popped that into the SELECT line under the math() function. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-visualization-1-1024x427.png) Now comes my favorite part – figuring out how to represent the data. In Visualization you have a bunch of really great graph and display options. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-heatmap-1024x449.png) One of my favorite ones is the heatmap, which takes highs and lows and averages all together and shows a very visually easy interpretable representation. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-visualization-2-1024x715.png) Besides how the graph looks overall, you can customize all sorts of options on a per-graph-type basis, turn off legend items, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-alert.png) In addition, you can write alert rules to send messages and emails if values reach all sorts of different thresholds. Very flexible engine! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-1024x538.png) You can add all sorts of graphs and data to a single dashboard so you can see everything that matters in one place. This is my main dashboard that shows me everything I care about in one place, and I use this constantly both while on the boat and remotely to check on things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-time-ranges.png) It gets even more powerful because you can change the time range on the fly. You can choose from preset amounts, enter your own start/end date, or just click on a graph and drag a selection, say to look at a spike of wind or temp. Very easy to use. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-refresh.png) You can also change the frequency that the data updates on the dashboard. I usually set them to 1 minute while I am on the boat, and have the dashboard up on my computer or the main driving PC in case something changes dramatically. I have alerts in place to change colors and send emails if things get really bad. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Grafana-mobile-473x1024.png) The dashboards also work amazingly well on a mobile phone. ## How I use it I was initially just really excited at having a real, mobile weather station the boat, but it has proven far more useful than I thought. Having the data always available on Windy.com is very convenient for checking on things quickly no matter where I am. Since I use Windy for planning, it’s also nice seeing current conditions if I am on the boat and figuring out the next few days. And since it follows wherever I go, I always have a track of data from along the way. But I really, really love the Grafana dashboard. I leave it on the salon PC when I am aboard in full screen mode so I can see the current temperature and wind, and the last hour of trends. Being able to go back in time from the day’s trip and dig deeper into the wind and temperatures allow for some fun entries in the cruising log. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/03/Big-wind-graph-1024x484.png) When a bad storm comes through and the boat is at the dock, I can check the dashboard remotely make sure things are OK – wind speeds, temps inside and out, including the engine room. I leave it up in the corner of my monitor at home while working so I can watch the winds change throughout the storm, If you have a PC, connect it to your NMEA 2000 network, setup SignalK (easy) and get both of these plugins. Not only will you be contributing weather to Windy and helping others, but with the Grafana dashboards, you can transform your helm into a super customizable display that you can enjoy every day. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Wayne & Christine](https://mobius.world/?ref=seabits.com) [March 29, 2020 at 6:16 am](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-156) Hi Steve et al, another typically well written and high value post with an equally well done video. Really appreciate your clear and detailed overviews and covering the how to portions in more detail. Much appreciated, thanks. We had the previous Airmar WX150 weather station on our last boat, a 52′ steel Bruce Roberts design cutter and it was a super addition that worked without a hitch for over 10 years and is still working well for the new custodians of that boat. I initially got this for its super accurate wind and heading info that was a huge improvement on the sailboat and for the autopilot. But I too came to value the weather data more and more. Right now we are busy building our next boat here in Antalya Turkey with Naval Yachts which will be a 24m all aluminium eXtreme eXploration Passage Maker or XPM as we make the leap from sail to power. We will soon be installing the new Airmar 220WX WeatherStation on the new build and I will post details of that installation when it happens as part of the weekly updates on our Mobius.World blog. Once we launch and get back to sea we will be sharing all the real world data we are logging so that we and others can start to see how various bits of kit are performing, efficiency rates, etc. Not sure if this is the best place to do so but please do put Christine & my name on the list of those very interested in participating in your “video happy hour” Tech Talk sessions via Zoom if you get those going. Let me know if there is a better place to sign up for that? Hope everyone here is finding ways to stay healthy and happy as we all navigate this latest storm in the world and thanks again for time and effort into the articles you share. Wayne & Christine Christopher [April 11, 2020 at 4:52 pm](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-152) Hello Steve, could you tell me how to configure Derive Data to send data to Windy.com Thank you and best regards Christopher Christopher [April 11, 2020 at 10:32 pm](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-151) Do you already have the Windy plugin ([https://github.com/itemir/signalk-windy#readme](https://github.com/itemir/signalk-windy?ref=seabits.com#readme)) installed? Yes , everything configured in Windy because I have other stations already connected there and working. signalk-derived-data I have installed the same and have a problem with it . Christopher [April 13, 2020 at 10:23 am](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-149) Everything works, it took a long time to log in to Windy.com Mike [June 17, 2020 at 12:45 pm](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-118) Hey Steve, I figured i’d add it to this post as it may be beneficial to others…I’m setting up my Grafana dashboards and trying to get the best and most useful use of data for underway/anchor/remote monitoring. One thing I’m having the hardest time with is getting the math right for Heading/Wind Angles. It appears it’s coming in from the N2K network as Rads but every conversion I have run doesn’t seem to work? Do you mind sharing your formula for Rads -> Degrees that seems to work well. - Romain [January 26, 2021 at 11:54 pm](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-696) Hi Mike, you can simply multiply by 57.2958 Best regards. James [December 11, 2020 at 5:11 am](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-20) Hi Steve, This has been extremely useful in setting up live weather data from the RNZYS in Auckland. However, I would really like to send the data to InfluxDB Cloud, rather than to a local instance of InfluxDB. So far, I have not been able to achieve this with the SignalK – Influx DB plugin. Is this something that you have considered or achieved? I am running SignalK on a Raspberry Pi connected to a NMEA2000 network. Many thanks J Alastair [April 12, 2021 at 10:31 pm](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-3491) Hi Steve How do you get multiple lines (series) on the same graph. For example Temperatures, I want to put Cabin, water, and ambient temperature on the same graph. Thanks in advance Cheers Alastair Auckland NZ - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:41 pm](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-3624) Sorry for not responding sooner – a bunch of comments got flagged as spam accidentally! You just add another query when you’re adding items. It’s in the bottom left of the screen when you’re adding a new graph and editing things. Patrick St-Onge [August 27, 2021 at 12:11 pm](https://seabits.com/real-time-weather-from-the-boat/#comment-3692) Anyone found a way to implement 3 hour pressure drop warning with Grafana? That would help me greatly 🙃 ### Docking and engine room cameras URL: https://seabits.com/docking-and-engine-room-cameras/ Last updated: 2026-08-07T21:19:37.000Z One thing I found early on with [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) is that a camera on the side of the boat seemed like a pretty important thing to have while docking. I’ve had a system in place now for a year and am very happy with the results. I’ve had a lot of experience with cameras at home, multiple remote properties, and on the various boats. I’ve used AXIS, Mobotix, Dropcam/Nest, UniFi, Arlo, Blink, and a few more that I’ve forgotten about. However, cameras seem to be as controversial or as personal as the best type of anchor, the best brand of engine, etc. These are my experiences and what I’ve found to work best after a lot of research around where I want to display them, and having spent a long time using a wide range of camera manufacturers. Nevertheless, a lot of the choice has to do with how I personally wanted them displayed and how I wanted to use them. ## Defining my use case I initially got distracted by the many cameras available in the market. I realized that I needed to narrow down what my real use case was, and chose the following criteria: - What – what did I want to look at? - Location – from where was I going to use the camera output? - Display – how was I going to look at the output? - Reliability & quality – what resolution and quality did I need? ### What The first thing to figure out is what I wanted to look at. For sure, I wanted a clear view of the port side of the boat near the dock, as that is the side I dock on, and I could not see the edge of the boat well from any driving position. In addition I wanted to see the engine room as well. ### Location Now that I knew what I wanted to see, where was I going to look at it from? Initially, I thought “everywhere!” and wanted to consider WiFi and phone apps, etc. but that really muddied the waters in terms of solutions. The most important places to see the camera images were from the flybridge and salon driving stations. That’s where I am when docking, and while underway. The images from the dock side or the engine room will be critical from both of those locations. Sure, it would be nice to see the engine room or dock while in bed, but I could do that another way, and it’s not the main reason. I find a lot of technology and boat decisions are compromised, or needlessly complicated, by adding too many requirements, or by being distracted trying to have things everywhere, all the time. I say that, knowing full well that I have far more connectivity devices, servers, internet connections, and NMEA 2000 devices doing random and duplicitous things, but for critical systems like autopilots, radar, and things like this, I do like very focused and simplified solutions. ### Display Now I needed to figure out how to view the output of the cameras. I considered a dedicated monitor, but would need one at each location, and it would take up extra space. Using a portable screen like an iPad or otherwise also didn’t seem to be a good method because of sun and heat issues, plus it takes up more space again. Additionally, I hate when I need something and it is discharged or not at the helm station I need it at. I decided that the best way view things would be if I could see them on both MFDs and a PC. With my investment in Furuno equipment, I found that the best solution was cameras from AXIS, which Furuno, TimeZero and Coastal Explorer all support. Using displays that were already in place seemed the most efficient. This met my requirement of being able to see it at both locations, and it could be viewed by PC software or on MFDs. ### Reliability & Quality I wanted cameras that were good quality both in reliability and image. Having an HD image was not that important since I am not displaying this on a TV – just using it for docking and monitoring while aboard. I did want very reliable cameras, not dependent on WiFi or internet connections, and using DC power so that they always worked even if there was an inverter or other failure. ## Security Cameras I believe that security cameras and “underway” cameras are a different class of product. Security cameras should be located in strategic areas to protect the boat, and be able to alert you no matter where you are. Products from Arlo and others are really good at this, even over low bandwidth cellular links and the like. Most of the time you aren’t aboard when you want a security camera to work, so having the cloud or a remote server involved is important. Relying on an alert from a local server on the boat (or a remote home, etc.) has some limitations. First, you have to hope that the server doesn’t get stolen if there really is someone getting aboard. Second, and more importantly, if something bad is happening aboard, getting connected into the boat remotely and viewing the footage can be very concerning and take critical seconds. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-cockpit-close-side-rain-1-1024x768.jpg) By using cloud or remote cameras, the footage generally will be available faster and in a place you can get to quickly. I’ve tried to use higher quality local cameras remotely, and there are a lot of challenges – bandwidth being the biggest. There’s also just not as many nice features as dedicated remote security cameras. I still use Arlo cameras aboard Rendezvous, and wrote about them when I had them on Grace in [Easy security cameras on the sailboat via Arlo](https://seabits.com/arlo-security-cameras-on-the-sailboat/). I’ve been testing some new ones as well that I hope to write about soon. For docking and underway, using Arlo or other cameras is not feasible since they have no way of producing at live video locally, and send it up to a remote server, with a huge delay in some cases. And they also require internet access, which you do not always have when docking. I did look at the whole suite of security cameras and car backup cameras, but I wasn’t happy with the quality of many of them, and how you had to use their wiring, their screen, etc. – basically end-to-end setup. It seemed nice at first, but as I considered having to run cables all over the place, and only end up with one screen at one location, it just didn’t work for my use case of where I wanted them. ## For those who prefer life at 7 knots. Reviews, deep dives, and real-world projects from aboard my trawler [**Aruna*](https://seabits.com/aruna/). Subscribe Email sent! Check your inbox to complete your signup. Join 2,000+ boat nerds and helps support my journey. Unsubscribe anytime. ## Camera Server After looking at the various camera versions supported, I started noticing that there were limits in MFDs when it came to individual cameras, both analog cabled cameras, and IP or WiFi cameras. Analog cameras typically plug in directly to an MFD through a dedicated cable – my Furuno TZT2’s have 2x RCA connectors each. That means I’d have to run dedicated cables from the camera locations to the MFDs, which is not so fun. In addition, there are limitations to how you can share the camera from the MFD to other units, and sharing them with PCs is almost impossible this way. Network-connected cameras are very popular, and supported by Furuno and TZ/CE as well. Both ethernet and WiFi cameras exist, although for this sort of critical camera, I would prefer a wired connection. I noticed that the Furuno TZT2s had limits on these types of cameras – you could only display one camera in a split screen configuration, or 1 large screen camera. This was pretty limiting, but I found similar limits on other MFDs hidden away in release notes. I suspect that it has to do with processing and rendering the video from the remote camera, which takes a decent amount of CPU. If you’ve ever connected to a good quality camera, or even run multiple YouTube videos at the same time in a browser, you know it can take a decent amount of power. MFDs are not known for having huge processing power, and they definitely focus it more on maps and sounders than anything else. However, the TZT2 supports AXIS Camera Servers, more colloquially known as video encoders. After a bit of investigation, and [this excellent document on setting up cameras with the TZT and TZT2 line](https://www.furunousa.com/-/media/sites/furuno/document%5Flibrary/technical%5Finfo/interfacing%5Fand%5Finstallation/interfacing%5Fand%5Finstallation/navnet%5Ftztouch%5Fand%5Ftztouch2%5Faxis%5Fip%5Fcamera%5Fsetup%5Fprocedures.pdf?ref=seabits.com) from Furuno, I found the [AXIS M7104 Video Encoder](https://www.axis.com/products/axis-m7104?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/m7104-angle-right-1902.png) AXIS M7104 Video Encoder Video encoders are an interesting product – they’ve been around a long while, and I used some of them back in the day for monitoring data centers and such, minus the ethernet connectivity. The benefit they bring is that they process and deal with the video on board, and output a number of different streams and layouts. This means the Furuno TZT2 can display one camera, a split of 2 cameras, or all 4 cameras, with the layout and rendering being driven by the encoder itself. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/m7104-back-1905.png) AXIS M7104 back The encoder has an ethernet jack that can also deliver power to it via power-over-ethernet, a power connector, reset button, SD card for recording locally, and RS-485/422 connectors for automation and such. I cabled the ethernet port into my Furuno network, and did some quick configuration. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Furuno-TZT2-video-config.jpeg) Sorry for the bad pic, but it was a sunny day. I’ve configured one of the “AXIS Quad Server” entries in the TZT2 by simply enabling it, and choosing both Quad Mode, as well as enabling individual inputs and giving them meaningful labels. I experimented with a few different options in the video quality, but in general, I followed the Furuno document I linked above as closely as possible and everything worked well. The AXIS was recognized and working, so now it was time to test some cameras! ## Testing Cameras You might notice that there are four connectors on the front of the M7104 – these are BNC-style analog video connections. Analog!? Why would you want to use older analog cameras over a digital solution? Well, I found that the range of available cameras available in the analog world was not only far greater, but they were considerably less expensive than their digital counterparts. Lots of the newer cameras that use ethernet have wide fisheye lenses, digital zoom, can be moved around or rotated, etc. but few are truly marine grade unless you spend $500+ on a camera from one of the usual manufacturers. Analog cameras can be powered by your DC battery bank, are much cheaper, and have really good optics. I also looked at but discounted most of the high definition cameras mainly due to cost. If I were displaying this video on a TV or other large screen device, or recording all of it to examine license plates or something else in the distance, then HD would make sense. If I’m displaying it on MFDs or a PC, even with a nice 22″ computer monitor, I’d likely only use half of the screen or closer to 720p resolution anyhow, so it didn’t make sense to pay 2x for an HD camera for docking. When you look at analog cameras for a camera server like the AXIS, you’ll find that they only need to be standard definition analog cameras, no other weird requirements or specific protocols, which really opens up a lot of options. You can use PTZ or controllable cameras with the AXIS, but it requires a bit of extra wiring. If you are looking for a steerable or zoomable camera, it might be better to look at the more modern digital cameras that operate over ethernet or WiFi. For me, I wanted a consistent, never changing site picture that my mind would always be used to for docking, so fixed analog cameras made a lot of sense. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Outside-black-camera-temp-1.jpeg) To start testing, I pulled the camera wiring through the engine room intake vent and used 3M Command Strips to stick the camera to the side of the boat. I did this for about 5 different cameras and in a ton of different locations. It was winter, with really cold temps, and I didn’t think it would work for many reasons. However, I kept the 3M strip in my pocket and warm, and the cameras stuck to the boat like they were permanently mounted. I even went on a 2 day trip to Poulsbo with one attached this way unintentionally! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Port-camera-testing-1.jpeg) The AXIS camera server made it easy to test placement – I could take the PC outside on the dock and adjust things while moving the camera around. AXIS has a bunch of other settings as well, including stretching and filling the image, flipping it over, and many other options. Some of these were necessary to use depending on the camera I was testing, and it gave me a lot of flexibility. Above you can see a shot from the cheap black camera ($50) I started testing with – not super useful in terms of the field of view. As I came into the dock, I would really only see things once I got deep into the slip, and I couldn’t see the fenders or the wider part of the stern. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Outside-multi-camera-testing-close.jpeg) I tried cameras facing forward and aft in the same location thinking that would give me a better overall site picture of the dock. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Port-camera-testing-furuno-dual.jpeg) Still somewhat limited looking forward, and aft is a bit better, but still can’t see much of the side or edge of the boat, just back towards the swim step. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Outside-multi-camera-testing-zipties.jpeg) I tried moving one further down, right on the engine intake, and used a super secure zip tie mounting system. It did give me a slightly better view, but still not enough of the edge of the dock. And this configuration was asking for a problem – check out the fender line and how it would happily get caught up in the camera and rip it off or mess it up. I tried a few up on the edges of the flybridge, but they had the same problem I do with my eyes – I can’t see past the walkway around the edge of the boat down to the side of the boat near the dock. I looked at tons of other locations for mounting, but all of them required major surgery. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Camera-settings-setup.jpeg) All of the cameras I tested had some sort of device or controls that allowed adjustments and fine tuning. I ended up leaving most of these alone, except for when I had to flip the image one way or another. However, there is a lot of flexibility in terms of light handling and such. ## Camera Choice ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/multi-purpose-mobile-stainless-steel-camera.png) Image courtesy of Rugged Cams After all of the testing, I ended up choosing the [Stronghold MP](https://www.rugged-cctv.com/product/stronghold-mp/?ref=seabits.com) from Rugged Cams. It is stainless steel, has a really slick mounting bracket that is very adjustable, yet secure, a wide 170 degree viewing angle, and very good low light performance. There are versions that have infrared for night vision, a white light version, and even explosion proof models! All of those add cost, and while infrared might be nice, I can’t see it working well in the dark while docking. Just like most of the rest of the cameras I tested, it came with a controller so you can customize the image, flip it, etc. I didn’t have to do much to the default image, and left the auto settings in place, which have worked in both bright reflective sun/water and darker situations as well. ## Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/AXIS-install-location.jpeg) I installed the AXIS camera server in a tiny battery box (not shown – this was mid install) in the engine room near the generator start battery. Ethernet runs from this to my Furuno network, power from a dedicated circuit with a local fuse. The analog camera cables I [purchased from Rugged Cams](https://www.rugged-cctv.com/product/pre-fabricated-cables/?ref=seabits.com) as well, and highly recommend them. They are made of RG-59 coaxial cable for the video side and 18 gauge/2 conductor power wire for camera power. It’s essentially a single molded cable which makes it easier for pulling and running the cabling. For the cabling, I covered all connectors with electrical tape to seal out any water intrusion. The camera has a couple foot lead on the end of it, which makes it easy to connect the camera to the longer cable and get it well inside the boat through the engine vent, up away from any water. I paired this with some stable 12v DC power supplies that get power off a dedicated circuit for the AXIS and cameras from my main house battery bank, and output a constant 12v DC to the cameras. Based on their specs, I probably could have wired them into the battery bank directly without a voltage stabilizer, but I was being a bit more careful and wanted some longevity out of the cameras. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Port-camera-location-1.jpeg) I ended up mounting the camera inside the engine air intake front corner at a funky angle. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Port-camera-location-2.jpeg) Here’s another view of the port camera tucked into the engine intake. A little bit of the camera peeks out so it has clearer view of things. I’ve never had a fender or line get caught on it, which was part of the reason I stuck it here. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Port-camera-location-3.jpeg) Final view of the mounting location. I was able to run the cables up the inner wall of the engine room and out the intake vent – no new holes required! You can see how it is looking down and back towards the stern. ## Results I currently have 3 cameras in place, with a 4th being installed here in a month or so now that I’ve found a route for the cable. I’ve had the 3 working for over a year with no failures or issues. I ended up installing one camera on the port side for docking, and two in the engine room to monitor things. Since I never dock on the starboard side due to my SeaWise davit, and also because I could not find an appropriate route for cabling for a starboard camera, I deferred installing it until this winter. The starboard cam may face forward so I can see as I am entering a slip and see distance between me and a neighbor – I’ll have to do some additional testing before I decide. Since I almost always dock while driving from the flybridge, and I have excellent visibility aft, and even from the salon driving station, it is easy to see aft, I don’t think I’ll need a stern camera ever. ### Port Docking ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/TimeZero-port-camera.jpeg) The most important (and most used) camera is the Port Docking camera. This camera is perfect, and gives me a fantastic view of the corner of the dock before I am fully in the slip, anyone stepping off the swim step, and how close I am as well. I tried a lot of other angles, but I really like this one. I can see the corner or edge of the dock when the boat is about 1/2 way in, and I can see my rub rail down near the water to know how close I am. It has made docking in tricky tight situations very easy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Flybridge-docking-setup.jpeg) Flybridge docking layout In addition to the camera, I use a very focused setup when I am docking. When I’m docking, I only need to see the camera, and my docking dashboard (on the right above) that indicates speed over ground, apparent and true wind direction/speed, and rudder indicator. Nothing else matters – radar, charts, etc. – and as a result I am focused and have everything clearly in front of me. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Maretron-N2Kview-Environment.png) Maretron N2KView showing various data and port camera I also use this camera as an early warning system for anyone visiting the boat when I’m aboard. I have it up usually in TimeZero or Maretron N2KView so I can see if someone is approaching down the dock. ### Engine Room Cameras ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/TimeZero-engine-room-foward.jpeg) The engine room cameras were something I wanted to have given my [Boat exploration, a shock and a fire story](https://seabits.com/boat-exploration-a-shock-and-a-fire/) from a while ago. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/TimeZero-engine-room-aft.jpeg) Most of the time I use these views up on the flybridge on one of the TZT2 MFDs when I’m underway. I can flip up a screen to see both views just in case I hear something odd or to check on Bert, Ernie or Oscar (our engines and generator). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Maretron-N2Kview-engine-room.png) From the lower helm, I can use Maretron N2KView on the PC monitor to see both cams, engine room temp, and various alarms. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/quad.jpeg) With the quad AXIS server, I can configure a number of different layouts including a quad view, which is sometimes useful both on the PC as shown here in TimeZero, in Coastal Explorer, or on the MFDs so I can see the dock and engine rooms all at once. ## Recommendations - **Define your requirements / use case** – think about where you want to use your camera from, reliability, and the most important features. I’ve seen many neat WiFi camera systems that require an iPad or iPhone to use, which can be limiting if the iPad is out of battery, shuts down in the sun, etc. - **Security vs. Docking** – security cameras and docking cameras can’t always be the same. Sometimes you can use them for the same purpose, but there are a lot of newer solutions like Arlo and Blink that do a better job at security, and can run off of batteries and mount just about anywhere. - **Limits** – Check your MFD or PC / software to make sure you aren’t limited to certain brands or quantities. - **Analog** – don’t discount analog just because it is older technology. It is not as expensive, works extremely well, and offers other benefits. - **Test Locations** – test potential locations before hard wiring things in. Don’t just have someone hold it up – test it for a week or longer. Use 3M tape or zip ties to temporarily hold the camera in place, and use it before you drill holes. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Kevin [February 17, 2020 at 2:40 am](https://seabits.com/docking-and-engine-room-cameras/#comment-168) This article has enough content to qualify for hiding behind a paywall, so thanks for not doing that! Many people will find it useful and informative. As for the docking discussion, I used to try and stop near my finger pier, and than reverse just enough to jump off and horse my Jeanneau 36.2 into her slip. Which is a dumb idea, but the still waters of Everett marina north made it possible. Now in Bremerton, I overshoot my slip by a bunch, and start reversing until headway occurs, then just glide in a graceful arc for a stern in starboard tie. But only at slack water! Steven Webster [November 3, 2020 at 10:07 pm](https://seabits.com/docking-and-engine-room-cameras/#comment-41) Steve, another great article. Curious how the stainless Stronghold cameras have held up in the salt water envorinment. Phil [May 10, 2021 at 7:42 am](https://seabits.com/docking-and-engine-room-cameras/#comment-3528) Where in the world did you find those 12v regulators? I’m having a hell of a time finding them for my camera setup. Rugged cams have them but they are $17 per and $60 shipping. I’ll go that route if I have to but would rather find something local (Seattle Tacoma) or order through Amazon. Thanks - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 12:18 pm](https://seabits.com/docking-and-engine-room-cameras/#comment-3606) The ones that Rugged provided didn’t last very long, and were definitely expensive. I decided to wire the cameras directly into 12V and have been using them that way since March 2021\. So far, so good, but if I am concerned, I’m going to use one of the Victron Orion DC-DC converters: [https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-tr-dc-dc-converters-isolated](https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-tr-dc-dc-converters-isolated?ref=seabits.com) ### WiFiRanger Converge URL: https://seabits.com/wifiranger-converge/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T15:16:56.000Z [WiFiRanger](https://wifiranger.com/?ref=seabits.com) has been around a long time providing connectivity solutions for RVs and boats. Their new platform is called Converge, and is a mix of different components that can provide a whole solution for internet aboard. I’ve had one for a few months, and below is an overview and some results from my initial testing. ## Converge Platform ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-box-top.jpeg) Converge packaging [Converge](https://wifiranger.com/shop?ref=seabits.com) is a combo of indoor and outdoor components. The outdoor piece is a fin-shaped antenna enclosure that can be upgraded, and the indoor part is a router that comes in several different flavors. The idea behind this is something I support very much – modularity. Being able to upgrade the fin antenna on the roof with newer or more LTE radios is very attractive, and so is being able to choose the right size indoor unit. There’s another reason I really like this design, and it’s because the LTE radios and antennas, along with the 2.4Ghz WiFi radio for grabbing remote signals, are all outside. This means there are no cables running from inside to outside, adding loss to the signal. Many of the other products I use and test are all indoors, with the antennas only outside, which adds some complexity and signal loss. ### Outside Antenna ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-antenna-quarter-alone.jpeg) Converge Denali Right now WiFiRanger offer two outdoor fin antennas – the [Teton](https://wifiranger.com/shop/product/138-converge-teton?ref=seabits.com) and [Denali](https://www.wifiranger.com/shop/product/158-converge-denali?ref=seabits.com). The Teton only has a 2.4Ghz WiFi radio in it, and lower power than the Denali, and would be useful more in the RV world, or for someone who has access to a remote WiFi network to connect to, perhaps a liveaboard in a marina. The Denali has a more powerful 2.4Ghz WiFi radio and a category 4 LTE radio. The Teton goes for $129, and the Denali for $499. There is a third unit planned called the Everest which will have both 2.4 and 5 Ghz WiFi radios (yes!) and the capability to have dual LTE radios – one category 6 and one category 4\. This would put it more in competition with products from Cradlepoint and Peplink that offer dual LTE radios and both WiFi bands, although the second LTE radio is an option, and the price for this unit is listed at $799 but I’m not sure if that comes with the second LTE radio. When the Everest comes out, it will be one of a handful of other solutions that have dual band outdoor WiFi, like the MikroTik Groove, and will allow you to connect to 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz remote WiFi sources. This has been one of the most difficult things to find, and something that is a necessity in many installations I’ve done (and my own marina) because of noise and interference on 2.4Ghz. However, it would also be good idea to look at other solutions, as once you get to $799 for the unit plus $100 for the indoor router, you are in the price range of several commercial solutions that may have advantages. ### Indoor Router ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-ports.jpeg) Spruce indoor router There are two indoor routers available – the [Poplar](https://wifiranger.com/shop/product/157-converge-poplar-router-stand-alone?ref=seabits.com) and the [Spruce](https://wifiranger.com/shop/product/156-converge-spruce-router-stand-alone?ref=seabits.com). The Poplar is very basic and only supports 2.4Ghz WiFi at $79, while the Spruce is $119 and does both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. Both have 5 ethernet ports. Given the proliferation of new devices supporting 5Ghz, and how [messy marina WiFi is](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/), I would always spend the extra and go with the Spruce. WiFiRanger give discounts for buying a Denali+Spruce or Teton+Poplar together. You’ll see that on the Denali/Teton [store pages on their site](https://wifiranger.com/shop?ref=seabits.com). The combo I’m testing is around $550 total. ## Packaging and Materials ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-packing-materials.jpeg) The entire setup came in one, very well designed box with excellent packaging and protection. It also included installation instructions, and an AT&T SIM card that had already been pre-installed in the Denali. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-install-packet.jpeg) Because I already had an AT&T SIM, this required I open up the antenna and swap it for the one I already had. Strangely, there were no instructions included to activate the included AT&T SIM, and I had to contact support for more information. WiFiRanger [offer plans through AT&T](https://www.att.com/plans/connected-car/wifiranger/?ref=seabits.com) and for someone relying mostly on WiFi, as I imagine most traditional RV’ers do, they look OK. For most boaters, $90 for for 22GB/month of data is quite high. I personally go through over 100GB/month which would cost me $300! There are alternative providers out there that use the same networks and provide better pay-as-you-go solutions. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Power-supply-options.jpeg) Power supply options included The Converge comes with a fused lead (bottom right above) to connect to your DC power system. However, you can also get an AC wall wart, which I did for testing. In addition, there is a Y cable that provides DC power to the indoor and outdoor pieces. It’s really nice to have a fused lead and power connectors for everything right out of the box. ## Denali Details Specs: - 2.4Ghz high power WiFi radio + 2 antennas to grab remote signals - Single category 4 LTE radio - GPS antenna The Denali is designed to be mounted outdoors and grab remote WiFi and LTE signals and send those down an ethernet cable to the indoor unit. It could also be used standalone and connected to a PC or another non-WiFiRanger router. A third option is to use one of the 2.4Ghz radios to broadcast a local WiFi signal in case you didn’t want an indoor router. Lots of options for deployment – I will be using mine connected to the Spruce router, with the Denali doing 2.4Ghz WiFi externally (searching for a remote signal) and using the LTE radio as a backup internet source. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-antenna-quarter.jpeg) Converge Denali outdoor unit The outdoor unit is a single fin antenna enclosure and included cabling. I chose a 30′ long cable as I didn’t know where I would install it. This includes both power and ethernet, but they are separate cables – no PoE here, which would be nice to see in future versions, since the Spruce supports it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-antenna-screws-holes.jpeg) The Denali can be mounted using screws or sealant. You can also access the innards, which I had to do to swap my SIM card, and you may have to do for an upgrade, by removing the 6 philips screws around the outside edge. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-apart.jpeg) Once you have the top off, you will see two tall antennas, which are for the 2.4Ghz WiFi radio, and other bits and pieces. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-apart-close.jpeg) Looking a little closer at the components, you can see a GPS, LTE antennas, ethernet cable to the indoor router, and chips for the LTE and WiFi radios. This appears to be a custom board that WiFiRanger have built. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-board-back-sim-power.jpeg) You can carefully lift the whole assembly out of the tray, and on the back of the unit, there is a power connector and the SIM slot. This is where I had to remove the factory provided one, and add my own. Not the easiest spot to get to, and it requires a lot of patience to put things back together correctly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Converge-back-sloppy.jpeg) One thing I had concerns about is the way everything fit together. Once you remove the top of the fin antenna, it is very hard to get everything back inside and closed up. There is some slop until things are tightened down. I am a bit more worried about the entry point for the cable on the back of the unit, which has space for things to get up inside, and the entire edge of the top of the fin. While it overlaps the outside of the base, there are no water tight seals of any kind, which might be an issue in terms of longevity. The Denali is a pretty neat piece of gear – aerodynamic fin that has lots of radios and antennas packed inside, and allows for an easy mount somewhere outside. I really like the idea of being able to upgrade or swap out the components, and the fact that the LTE and WiFi radios are outside and able to reach signals much more efficiently than other products. ## Spruce Specifications: - 5 ethernet ports (one used by Denali unit) - 2.4 & 5Ghz WiFi access point - 802.11 n/a/c – WiFi 5 - USB port ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-mikrotik-label.jpeg) The Spruce is a 5 ethernet port device (one used by the Denali) with both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz WiFi radios inside of it. It is branded MikroTik but runs WiFiRanger software. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-quarter-label.jpeg) It is an [hAP AC2](https://mikrotik.com/product/hap%5Fac2?ref=seabits.com) model and has really good specifications. You can mount it either on the stand you see above, or flat on a desktop. The Spruce also has a USB port which can be used for connecting a MiFi or other LTE device if you choose not to have a Denali, Everest or Teton outdoor unit. The Denali connects to port 5 of the Spruce, and after powering everything up, they should talk to each other and be ready for configuration. ## Software ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-connected-fully-1024x705.png) One thing that WiFiRanger has always had is very focused software, and the Spruce+Denali = Converge setup is no different. Very clear status is visible on the main page, and everything you’d need to do when arriving at a new location is easily found as well. I really love the mountain background with the product name – it’s a nice touch that offers a slightly less clinical screen that are so popular with routers and tech gear. In this case, my Spruce is connected to the Denali using WFRControl and we’re connected to LTE and WiFi. You can see a list of available nearby WiFi networks, which one we’re connected to, and choose to reconnect/disconnect, plus other settings. Up in the top right corner is the software/firmware version, whether we’re connected to the “cloud” which allows WiFiRanger to access things remotely, uptime, and serial number. What isn’t obvious is that most of this data is coming from the Denali unit outdoors – it’s the one that is scanning for WiFi networks, connected to LTE, etc. and is providing that information over the cabled connection to the Spruce. This is also where I’ve seen some confusing things, which I’ll cover below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-wifi-details-1024x330.png) If you expand the WiFi arrow, you can see details about the WiFi network we’re connected to which can be helpful when troubleshooting. You can also configure the WiFi system to pick a network based on a number of different criteria, which is a very, very nice feature. These include First Available, First Tagged, Strongest Signal, Fastest Available, and Fastest Tagged. This is a great way of being able to categorize the WiFi networks near you and choose what is the most important – speed or signal strength – when connecting. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-WiFi-settings-1024x645.png) The WiFi tab has lots of useful settings including the networks you want to connect to remotely, the various bands you want to broadcast indoors, SSID and password, and more. You can also setup a guest network with a bunch of helpful settings. These settings are for the Spruce, not the Denali, well most of them. You can have the Denali broadcast a WiFi network that matches the one inside. I suspect this may be for while you’re outside, but I also saw it affect my performance when trying to use a remote WiFi network as my internet source. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-setup-screen-1024x645.png) The setup section is where it gets interesting. I’ve disabled “Hide Advanced Features” so I can see everything. You can see the various Internet Connectors, and for the Spruce, I’ve moved the “WFRControl Denali” to the top of the list. This is the outdoor Denali unit, and I want it to be my primary source of internet. Other than the confusing naming, it is nice to have this level of control. If I wanted, I could use an Ethernet port, one of the Spruce’s WiFi radios, or a USB connected device to provide internet as well. Very flexible! Also on this page is how you configure failover, although I’m not clear if this does anything or if the Denali’s settings override this. Same with the Multi-WAN mode. There are profiles you can create/load for various settings, which is handy if you like flipping over to a different order of devices or failover settings when on WiFi vs LTE or at particular locations. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-usage-1024x659.png) The Spruce does not by default collect usage information, but it is easy to turn on, and contains a nice set of graphs. Unfortunately, on the Spruce it only shows one “Internet Connector” which is the Denali, so there’s no way for me to know if this bandwidth has been used by my LTE radio or WiFi connections. You have to look on the Denali for this. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-status-1024x459.png) Under status you can see the connection being used, IP addresses, interfaces, and devices connected to the internal WiFi access points. You can also set static DHCP leases. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-advanced-1024x621.png) The advanced screen contains ways to forward ports, DNS overrides, and security for logins to the dashboard, among other things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Denali-setup-1-1024x672.png) If we head over to the Denali, there are an identical set of tabs/pages, but slightly different data on some of them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Denali-LTE-settings-1-1024x595.png) The most important one is the Setup tab. I’ve changed the default order which was to use Internal WiFi WAN first, and Cellular 1 second. Within each of these there are a bunch of settings as well, especially for the Cellular 1 Internet Connector, but I left them all at the defaults. You can see your IMEI and other SIM details, and choose providers, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Denali-WiFi-adapter-settings-1024x451.png) There are also profiles below, as there are on the Spruce, for some standard configurations which is helpful. Since all I ever do would be to change the priority order of WiFi and Cellular 1, I opted to use the arrows instead of creating a new profile, but I could see where that could be beneficial as you could customize the settings under each. ### Stability and Maturity I applaud WiFiRanger for creating software that is more streamlined than most commercial products I’ve used/tested. If you’ve ever used Peplink or Cradlepoint, they have decent UIs, but they are still technical and can be confusing. If you’ve tried a MikroTik device, you know the opposite end of the spectrum where you immediately begin to age and get grey hair the moment you start clicking through options. However, there is room to grow. The most confusing thing is how the Denali and Spruce are separate units, but not. Some things can only be done on the Denali, but changing other settings will cause the Spruce to lose its mind. Then there are confusing terms like WFRControl and Failover which aren’t really defined anywhere, and screens showing interfaces and IP addresses that the average user wouldn’t need to see. The most frustrating thing though is the stability of the software. Even though the “Initial Auto Connect” feature was on all of the time, I never saw the system automatically connect to anything without me intervening. Once connected to LTE, if I attempted to connect to WiFi, the Spruce became very laggy, and I often lost my internet connection completely until things stabilized, sometimes 3-4 minutes later. I’ve also had to reboot the system a lot to get things working again. I appreciate this is a new system and software, and I know that WiFiRanger is working on improving it. Even in the last few weeks, I’ve seen a lot of improvement with new firmware, but it has a ways to go. ## Support I had to contact support a number of times for various reasons. Most were around the initial version of software that shipped with the unit, which needed to be upgraded. However, I had other issues around stability and lots of configuration questions. Support was very quick to respond via email (my preferred method) – usually the same day or within 1 business day. They were helpful and friendly, but most of the time asked to simply connect remotely to the unit to fix the issue instead of providing steps for me to do so. Being a hands-on tech person, that was somewhat frustrating, but for those that aren’t, this sort of support could make the difference in a purchasing decision. Having someone else who knows the product fix your issue remotely is definitely a big benefit. You do have to be connected to the internet for this to work though. I would highly recommend their support. ## Testing Results Testing was good in some areas, and OK in others. In terms of performance of the indoor WiFi router, that was excellent, as you would expect with hardware backed by MikroTik. I never had any disconnects or performance issues, and it was as strong or stronger than my other on board systems. Same with the ethernet ports, although I would not have expected any issues here. The outdoor 2.4Ghz WiFi AP that connects to remote signals worked very well also. It was pretty close to the performance of using a MikroTik Groove or Ubiquity Bullet, and found and held on to remote WiFi signals well. The outdoor LTE radio was very good. Because the radio and antennas are outside, the distance between the antennas and the actual thing doing the work was very small, resulting in little loss, and the antennas weren’t inside being blocked by boat stuff. This meant very high download and upload speeds, as well as strong signal even when far away from towers. On AT&T I saw 80Mbps download and 50Mbps upload for multiple days in a row in one location, which is pretty awesome performance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/02/Spruce-offline-but-connected-1024x613.png) Spruce showing the LTE radio of the Denali connected, but the Internet is “OFFLINE” The challenging thing was reliability. The software linkage between the Spruce and the Denali would sometimes get out of sync and as a result, the internet connection would go down for multiple minutes while things synced and figured themselves out. Some of this I think has to do with the failover technology that WiFiRanger employ, which is much less aggressive than what I’ve seen on other products. By default the lowest setting to switch between sources is 5 minutes, which is a long time to be disconnected – people will notice. The reliability has improved with every new software release they have come out with, and WiFiRanger have been very up front with the fact this is a new product and that they’re refining things. Their support has also been great at looking into any of the issues and tuning the units to get the most out of them. Overall, the performance was on par with the best systems out there in terms of WiFi and LTE radios and bandwidth. The most important thing will be to see the reliability improve over time. ## Pros - Streamlined user interface - Powerful radios - Modularity & upgradability - Support ## Cons - Build concerns - Software – still a work in progress - SIM card access ## Conclusion I think WiFiRanger have hit on a good mix of modularity and power in their new Converge line. I like how I can choose the different pieces, and potentially upgrade them in the future without ripping out everything. The LTE and WiFi radios are very powerful and work extremely well. However, it is still a work in progress – the software is getting better, the install process for the SIM card is difficult, and the long-term viability of the components could be a concern in the marine environment. The Converge is in an interesting price bracket at $550 – you can’t get all of these features in a Peplink or Cradlepoint system. You’d have to spend $100-200 more for the extra ethernet ports and an external WiFi antenna or booster like the MikroTik Groove, and they would be disparate pieces. But, that system would have a lot more features, and be more commercial grade. If you are looking for a powerful indoor WiFi system that pairs with an equally powerful outdoor WiFi and LTE system, then the Converge could be a good fit. Everything is included in one package, support is excellent, and is much simpler to use than other commercial products. > *Thank you to WiFiRanger for providing the Converge system used for testing in this article. I will be using it for future testing and updates.* ### Wakespeed WS-500 regulator review URL: https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:29:31.000Z Charging your batteries is a necessary evil while away from the dock. Most boats achieve the large portion of this via alternators, which have traditionally been less-than-optimal in terms of charge control. The [Wakespeed WS-500 regulator](http://www.wakespeed.com/products.html?ref=seabits.com) changes all of that, and then some. As part of my [updated power system](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/) on [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), I added LiFePO4 batteries and a larger inverter. You can read more about that system at [Victron + Wakespeed + Battle Born power system](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/). This was a great capacity increase, but it would not be effective unless I could charge it quickly and efficiently. My initial plan was to update the older alternators with newer higher capacity models, and install a set of Balmar regulators. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Balmar-XT-alternator-front.jpeg) Balmar XT-175 alternator (one of two) One approach is to set both alternators to the same charging profile and hope that things work most of the time. This can work, although I have seen it **not** work a lot more frequently. On a dual engine boat long ago in my past, I would generally only see one alternators capacity worth of charging, even though I had them both set to charge. Granted, this was with two banks and a combiner relay, but still. Another approach is to have one alternator charge the start bank, and one charge the house bank. Since the start bank rarely needs more than a few minutes to top up after being used to start the engines, that seemed like a phenomenal waste of a new alternator. After considering the overall design, I decided to have **both** alternators from the main engines charge the house bank, which added some challenges in terms of charging efficiency. You can see more details on this configuration and how I keep the start and generator banks charged (DC-to-DC chargers) in the article above. To get the best efficiencies out of this setup, I needed both alternators to work together so that neither one was working too hard. I also really wanted a lot better control over the charging profile, as alternator regulators are notorious for being far less “nice” to batteries than standard AC-based chargers. ## Why I chose the Wakespeed WS-500 Regulator I considered various options including the Balmar MC-614 + Centerfielder II, Electromaxx, and a few others. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Centerfielder-Diagram-1024x743-1.png) Most of them had pretty complicated wiring and setup processes, and limited control over charging profiles and settings. They are very tried-and-true, and have a lot of people using them, but I was hoping for something a bit more modern. I eventually found the [Wakespeed WS-500](http://www.wakespeed.com/products.html?ref=seabits.com) and contacted them for more info. Al Thomason and Rick Jones both replied to my initial inquiries about the WS-500, and a long, detailed discussion ensued. I’ve known Al for a few years, and had in the past exchanged some nerdy, detailed emails with him on CAN bus and NMEA 2000 along with battery monitoring, but I didn’t realize he had been involved from the beginning with Wakespeed. Rick Jones worked for Balmar for a long time and experienced many of the challenges in the alternator charging world. The third partner, Michael Frost, was responsible for several of the long-running designs of Balmar products including the Max Charge and ARS voltage regulators. Sadly, he passed away in 2016 but Al and Rick continued on. This is all relevant, as these guys [have a serious pedigree](http://www.wakespeed.com/about.html?ref=seabits.com) in the alternator and charging world, which went a long way with me trusting to install this rather new technology in my brand new battery bank setup! After a detailed review of my system and design, which I was in the middle of implementing, Rick and Al recommended two WS-500’s and gave me lots of helpful information on where to start. ## What’s Included ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Wakespeed-WS-500-included-items.jpeg) With each regulator you get: - Regulator - Main cable bundle - Fuses for several connections - CANbus terminator - Installation card/diagram You can find all of the included documentation, and a lot more, at the [Technical Information](http://wakespeed.com/technical.html?ref=seabits.com) page on Wakespeed’s website. I bought two regulators, one for each engine/alternator combo. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Wakespeed-WS-500.jpeg) The regulator itself is beefy and has some connectors on the bottom, and an LED light on the top to indicate various states. The top cover is secured by four screws. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Wakespeed-WS-500-ports.jpeg) The connectors on the bottom include two CAN ports and one large connector for the cable bundle. I used the CAN ports to connect the two units, which allows them to work together very efficiently. In addition, the provided terminators were placed in the other ports. The ports use J1939 CAN so there are opportunities to connect and control using a BMS or other external system. Wakespeed have a lot of really cool plans and already existing installs that leverage this open standard. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Wakespeed-WS-500-cable-end.jpeg) This is the regulator side of the cable bundle which uses a beautiful connector. Wakespeed has both P and N type wiring harnesses depending on your alternator type. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Wakespeed-WS-500-wires.jpeg) The wiring harness includes three main groupings – alternator, battery and dash. There are fuses included for those wires that require it, and the whole harness is fairly long so you could potentially not need to extend them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/wakespeed-quick-start-1.jpg) Quick start guide There is an included [Quick Start](http://wakespeed.com/Quick%20Start.pdf?ref=seabits.com) card which is one of the best I have seen in a long time. It has clear directions, but most importantly, big pictures showing how the DIP switches should be set for charging profiles. The second page shows the wiring harness with really nice big numbers and colors, making it very easy to set things up and get connected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Wakespeed-WS-500-circuit-board.jpeg) Inside the regulator is the main control board which includes the DIP switches and also a USB port for computer configuration. You’ll need to access this to configure the unit – either to set the DIP switches or connect to the USB port. ## Features ### Charge Control The biggest difference with the WS-500 over other systems I have used is the data it utilizes to make charging decisions – battery voltage, battery temperature, alternator temperature and **current**. Most regulators only the first few, and not the current flowing to/from your battery bank. This results in a far more predictable charging result, similar to what you would see from a standard AC charger. For LiFePO4, Firefly and other charge-sensitive banks, this is a perfect solution, as you not only can configure the WS-500 using a PC to be very custom, but it actually drives the alternator so accurately due to all of the data being gathered that you end up with a proper charge system. In addition, each phase of the charge cycle can be adjusted and tuned exactly for the battery bank and type you have. This includes not just voltage, but overall time, how many amps are flowing, temperatures, etc. etc. etc. ### Dual Engine Support This was one of the main features I was interested in the Wakespeed product, and it does not disappoint. Simply connecting an ethernet cable between the two units CAN ports ensures they communicate between each other to operate in the most efficient way possible. Seriously, all I did was plug in a cable, and I now have a dual regulator, dual alternator solution that is terrifyingly efficient. If you look at other solutions out there, this sort of setup requires a ton more work. ### Zero Output This allows the regulators to monitor the current shunt and reduce the alternator output to match the house loads once the batteries are charged. This is a really important feature for batteries that, once charged, should be left alone and not constantly discharged. ### Adaptive Idle This feature allows you to set an RPM level for when the load should be increased on the alternator, and a weight for how quickly it should be increased. This one makes me the most excited, and I don’t know why other manufacturers haven’t figured this one out yet. I have tried a couple of solutions that attempted to do this, but were not implemented well or didn’t work. The WS-500, already being connected to the alternator, has an idea of RPMs based on the pulses it is seeing from the alternator. With a bit of math using the size of the engine flywheel + the size of the alternator wheel, you can configure the WS-500 to see the actual RPM of your engines. Even though I have two rather beefy 305HP engines, at a low idle of 600 RPM they tend to not like a lot of extra load on the alternator. In the default configuration, my field values for the alternators were at about 50%, causing the engines to idle rougher than I wanted. Using this feature, I was able to tell the WS-500 to not bother starting the field until I hit 900 RPM, and even then to phase it in slower than the default profile. As a result, I have nice idle speeds from the engines, no rough idle, and I don’t have to worry about any effects on control while at these speeds. For smaller engined boats such as a sailboat, this feature will be critical, and result in good engine performance while close quarters maneuvering, while still taking advantage of higher RPMs while out on the water. ### Computer Configuration Because of the USB port, you can configure and monitor every aspect of the regulator. No magnet and tiny displays in cramped spaces, hoping you get things in the right order the first time after tap, tap, tapping. Plugging a standard USB cable into a PC provides the regulator with power so you can configure it ahead of final install, which is a really nice feature. The regulator shows up as a standard COM port, and there is an extensive [Communication and Configuration Guide](http://wakespeed.com/Wakespeed%20%20Communications%20and%20Configuration%20Guide%20v2.0.2.pdf?ref=seabits.com) that gives you access to every part of the software. ### Other Features There are a lot of other useful features on the WS-500 including the ability to use the CAN ports for BMS compatibility using RV-C and OSEnergy protocols, 100’s of charge profiles / combinations, custom presets, and firmware updates. ## Configuration Configuration can be done two different ways – simple or more advanced. The simple method is using DIP switches. The more advanced requires a computer and USB cable. I chose the more advanced method because I was programming mine very specifically for my Battle Born LiFePO4 batteries. I chose to use a Windows machine and [putty](https://putty.org/?ref=seabits.com) to configure things. The [Communication and Configuration Guide](http://wakespeed.com/Wakespeed%20%20Communications%20and%20Configuration%20Guide%20v2.0.2.pdf?ref=seabits.com) provides the details around how to configure it for the serial connection – port speed of 115200, with local echo forced on. Once connected you should start seeing data appear, which is the regulator sending it’s status and other information every second or so. ``` AST;,0.00, ,12.91,-32.4,-32.4,-419, ,14.60,375,15000,20, ,-99,19, ,200, ,12.91,26,-99,1AST;,0.00, ,12.91,-31.2,-31.2,-403, ,14.60,375,15000,20, ,-99,19, ,0, ,12.91,26,-99,2AST;,0.00, ,12.91,-30.3,-30.3,-391, ,14.60,375,15000,20, ,-99,19, ,190, ,12.91,26,-99,1AST;,0.00, ,12.92,-29.2,-29.2,-377, ,14.60,375,15000,20, ,-99,19, ,175, ,12.92,26,-99,2SST;,AREG2.0.2, ,0,0, ,8,1.50,1.00, ,0,0, ,0,-1, ,0AST;,0.00, ,12.91,-31.1,-31.1,-402, ,14.60,375,15000,20, ,-99,19, ,0, ,12.91,26,-99,2AST;,0.00, ,12.91,-29.9,-29.9,-386, ,14.60,375,15000,20, ,-99,19, ,215, ,12.91,26,-99,1AST;,0.00, ,12.92,-31.5,-31.5,-407, ,14.60,375,15000,20, ,-99,19, ,0, ,12.92,26,-99,2 ``` Each line starts with a three letter identifier that ends with a semicolon, along with comma separated data afterwards. In the above example we have the AST and SST identifiers which are for Alternator Status and System Status respectively. This set of data is from my already configured regulator, so it is showing battery voltage (the 12.91 number) along with current flowing from my battery bank, charge voltage goals, and much more. You can query the regulator with many different commands to find out not just status, but the charge profile that is being used, more details on temperatures, and a wealth of other things. In addition, you can change just about any parameter you could think of – from a completely custom charge profile, to how fast the regulator ramps up, alternator size, max amps, and many more. ``` $CPA:7 14.5, 200, 40, 0 ``` To change a configuration value, you only need to find the setting you want to change (which can take some time since there are a lot) and send it a command via the serial connection. The above command is changing charge profile #7 (one of the custom ones) to charge to 14.5 volts, and to exit after 200 minutes or when the system reads less than 40 amps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/WS500-config-tool-configuration.png) If you prefer a graphical way to configure things, Off Grid Marine Energy Products has collaborated with the Wakespeed folks to make a [Windows-based configuration and monitoring tool](https://offgridsoftwaresolutions.com/product/ws500-configuration-tool-pro-version-life-time-windows-64-bit/?ref=seabits.com). It has a menu-based system allowing you to see all of the configuration values along with help tips on each, and ways to save and restore configuration easily. I’ll show a bit more about that later under the Performance section. I ended up configuring my units to use the same exact charge profile that Battle Born provided to me for the Victron MultiPlus inverter/charger. I used charge profile 8\. I’m charging to 14.6 volts for a maximum of 200 minutes or until 15 amps or less are seen. No additional configuration is required when using two units – just connect them with an RJ45 cable, and they magically start working perfectly in tandem. I’d like to see more connectivity options, and Wakespeed has been very open to ideas around this. Having to use the USB cable is fine, but you can’t get to the USB port without opening up the case. This means the inner circuit board is exposed during that time, and really shouldn’t be left open in normal operating conditions. ## Installation Once I finished configuring the units, I set about the physical installation. For my setup, I was able to site the regulators on a bulkhead forward of each engine. The cables from the regulator went to two main areas – one bundle to the alternator, and one bundle to my main DC power area, also nearby. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Wakespeed-WS-500-landscape.jpeg) Bundle 1 to the alternator contains the dash and alternator wires. The dash wires provide power to the regulator, which I connected to a nearby oil sensor that only comes on when the ignition is turned on. The other wire was for a warning alarm which I connected to my existing warning alarm wire. The alternator wire bundle includes the alternator negative and positive, field, stator, and temp sensor. These I connected to the matching points on my alternator. Bundle 2 went to my DC power area and contains the battery temp, negative and positive battery sense, and current high/low sense. Since I’m using LiFePO4 batteries, I did not need to use the battery temp sensor. The positive and negative battery sense wires went right to the main bus that the battery bank main cables connect to. The current sense or shunt wires I connected to my existing Victron BMV-712 shunt. A shunt is critical / required to the Wakespeed working correctly – you can buy a standard shunt if you don’t have one already. The wiring was all very well documented in the getting started card, and was easy to connect to the various places. Make sure you follow all of the usual regulations and requirements when doing this part. Also, make sure you read the installation instructions carefully – as an example, it is very important to get the shunt data from as close to the battery bank as possible. The Wakespeed guys have given a lot of thought to the installation to try to make it as clear and reliable as possible. ## Software As I mentioned above, Off Grid Marine Energy Products has collaborated with the Wakespeed folks to make a [Windows-based configuration and monitoring tool](https://offgridsoftwaresolutions.com/product/ws500-configuration-tool-pro-version-life-time-windows-64-bit/?ref=seabits.com). It is really well thought out for setting things up, as well as monitoring while tuning your setup. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/WS500-config-tool-dashboard-alternator.png) There are also some helpful dashboards available which show general overview info, alternator details, and battery bank status as well. They also [sell the WS-500](https://offgridsoftwaresolutions.com/product/ws500-smart-regulator/?ref=seabits.com), and have some good bundle deals both for the regulator and software combined. The price of the software is completely worth it, not only to simplify the configuration, but to use in tuning and monitoring your setup, which you will see below. ## Performance I’ve been using the Wakespeed WS-500 regulator since May 2019 and have put more than 200 hours of motoring time on it. This included one month-long trip from Seattle -> Desolation Sound and back, with the regulators and alternators doing 95% of all charging the entire trip, and large daily discharges running ice machines and freezers in the warm temps. I’ve made some configuration changes along the way to optimize charging, and based on feedback from the Wakespeed folks, but generally speaking, the WS-500’s have been running flawlessly since I installed them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/CCGX-starting-charging-low-SOC.jpeg) Charging underway Above is my Victron Color Control GX showing 370 amps flowing into my house battery bank. This was underway after being at anchor for several days, and I had about a 30-35 amp draw of various things running. That puts me close to 400 amps of total charge capacity, which was 2x Balmar 175 amp alternators and the Victron MultiPlus inverter/charger pumping 120 amps, which was running off of the generator. That means I was charging at about 280 amps from both alternators combined, or 140 amps each. For a 175 amp small case alternator, that is pretty good. I had them running at this level for most of those 200 hours without any issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/WS500-config-tool-main-ramp-complete.png) Using the WS500 Configuration tool allows for a real-time display showing various performance graphs. In the image above, I’m connected to one regulator out of two, and seeing the initial ramp up phase after I started the main engines. I’m still seeing the single shunt on my house bank and the overall amperage coming/going to it from not only the regulator I’m connected to, but the matching one on the other engine, and all other charge/discharge sources. This is where the WS-500 excels above most other solutions in taking that metric into account when charging, not just voltage and temperature. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/WS500-config-tool-full8.png) Here’s further along in the charging cycle and you can see that my alternator temperature has risen to 65C (149F) from the initial 34C (93F) at the start of ramp up. Being able to see this real-time on a graph is amazing, and super helpful to tuning your alternators to their max capacity without overheating. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/VRM-charge-data.png) Here’s another test run that I did during an actual trip, and the Victron VRM portal data showing my battery charging rates. During this part of the trip, I experimented with running the alternators alone, and also with the generator powering the Victron MultiPlus inverter/charger, which added about 120 amps of charging capacity. You can see when the generator is turned on around 13:45, and back off again around 14:00\. You can also see the end of the charge cycle around 14:40 or so when the battery voltage spikes up, and the inbound current decreases. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Charge-rate-during-testing.png) Here’s another look at that same trip, but just the middle part during the generator test, with data from the Wakespeed WS-500\. I gathered this using putty on the Windows machine, logging all of the data, and importing it into Excel for analysis later. The trip was from Poulsbo / Liberty Bay to Seattle / Elliott Bay Marina and the total charge time was around 2 hours, starting at a 28% state of charge (SOC) on my house battery bank. ## Conclusion My new electrical system would not work anywhere near as well without the WS-500\. Using traditional alternators and control systems, I would either get only a portion of the overall charge capacity at times, or have voltage / current regulation issues which would charge my batteries at less-than-optimal settings. The dual-engine performance has been absolutely amazing, and I can charge my entire 600 amp hour LiFePO4 bank from almost 0% SOC to full in about 2 hours. That is a super short amount of time, and allows me to do short 2-3 hour passages between anchorages, and arrive with a completely full bank for longer times at anchor without the generator. ### Pros - Significantly better charge control / profiles - Monitors the same data a proper AC charger does - LiFePO4 & BMS compatible - Tons of configuration options - Idle and RPM-aware - Excellent for dual alternator / engine setups – no config required - Lots of logging / excellent Windows software - Great support ### Cons - Configuration can be complex with so many options - Access to USB port requires opening case --- The WS-500 represents the next-generation of regulators that uses proper, detailed data to charge your battery bank, like a high quality AC charger. This results in far more efficient and safe charging, while having amazing networking abilities for multiple units, providing coordinated bulk charging, and detailed logging. If you have a large house bank, a sailboat with a smaller engine, or batteries that require a more strict charging profile, the Wakespeed WS-500 is something you should seriously consider. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. ML\_C36 [July 26, 2019 at 3:59 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-241) Steve, have you written more about the Electromaax system? I personally have the generation before the one they are selling now and have some strong views but wanted to get your take. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 26, 2019 at 4:33 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-255) I have not written more about Electromaxx for a couple of reasons. First, I sold Grace last year and have a completely different system on my new boat. Second, I had a moderate amount of difficulties with the system, and was able to correct almost all of them after a lot of back and forth with the manufacturer. There were still a couple of items that I was never able to resolve, and ended up having to work around in different ways. However, the system did provide more charging amperage than any other system I tested on Grace, albeit with some quirks. This whole area of alternator control is one that I am surprised has not had more innovation for smaller sailboat motors. There are some new products out, one that I am testing now, and some that are looking very interesting that could help. Always interested in hearing other folks opinions on a system as well! - ML\_C36 [July 26, 2019 at 3:59 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-257) First, thank you for your extremely well put together articles. My office is right next to Peter Kennedy’s in Annapolis and I look forward to working with him on my LiFePO4 upgrade next year once my pockets have a bit more cash in them. With regards to Electromaax, I got on board with them about 5 years ago with the promise (as stated on their website and discussions with them) of an integrated system that would be able to be monitored via my onboard computer as well as over NMEA network. I had issues from the start including faulty temp sensors as well as a mis-wired alternator. I just learned that they are now in the BETA phase of a system that can be monitored through the onboard computer but not on NMEA network (5 years after them advertising it). I have had great technical help but had issues in other departments of the company. I love their ideas and motivation but I have found execution is well behind their vision. I also just went on their site and saw they are now advertising LiFePO4 batteries. I wish them well for they may now be producing a great product but based on my experience, I would never go with them again. Mic [January 21, 2020 at 8:03 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-189) Thanks for another great write up. I first became aware of Wakespeed back when it was first mentioned in the marine electronics press. Then, by coincidence, I met Al at a rendezvous last Sept and had a chance to talk to him in depth about what they were working on. I was really impressed. Since I hope to revamp my main electrical system in the near future your write-up has given me the detail and the confidence to put the WS-500 at the top the list for a regulator solution. Keep up the great work! Paul g [January 22, 2020 at 1:53 am](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-187) I noted your practice of running the genset while underway to add to your total charging current. I suppose that works as well as it does because of Lithium’ s very high charge acceptance rate. I have both my engine alternators’ output directed to the House bank via MC614 regs and a Centerfielder II and see around 145A in bulk acceptance. Running the genset powering a Victron inverter charger (nominally 120A but derated to 93A) the total charge acceptance only increases to about 185A. I suppose that reflects the limited acceptance rate of my flooded golf cart batteries (bank capacity of 940Ah)….or is it more likely to be charge “confusion” between the two charge sources (ie alts and a/c charger)? Grant Jenkins [January 23, 2020 at 6:49 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-185) Great article, Steve. I’m curious though, about their reference to “CanBus” networks and connectors. Normally I associate that with NMEA2000, but the connectors are in fact RJ45, or what most of us think of as Ethernet, and the network protocol apparently is J1939\. You know way more about this than I, so perhaps this doesn’t seem confusing to you, but I think when you mention CanBus in the recreational marine world, most folks think NMEA2000, no? They also do not appear to have weatherproof connectors for the cables and terminators, although the fittings are threaded to accept them. This would give me a little pause in the engine room environment, I think… - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 23, 2020 at 7:31 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-186) Hi Grant, Good questions. CAN bus ([https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN\_bus](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN%5Fbus?ref=seabits.com)) is what NMEA 2000 is based off of. J1939 is also based on CAN bus and primarily used in trucks and busses for engine communications. I know that the guys at Wakespeed are a bit more open-source-minded when it comes to the protocols they use, and have tried to develop their product with that in mind. Keeping that in mind, in order to have a true NMEA 2000 certified device, you have to go through a lot of hoops both financially and legally. I know that having a true NMEA 2000 certified port on the WS-500 is something many people (including me!) would like to see, and I did pass that along to them in my testing. I’ll leave it to them to provide any details on whether they are working on one. I believe they chose the Ethernet port form factor to allow for a number of different options when it comes to interfacing. That gives them the flexibility to use it for CAN now, but also specific customized CAN versions or other similar protocols for BMS’es. That is an area they highlight in their marketing materials, and I would assume are pursuing with specific vendors and such. Since the Ethernet cables are standard, you could get a weatherproof screw on one. I didn’t ask if they sell them, but I bet they do or have a way to source them. Jenkins Grant [January 23, 2020 at 10:09 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-184) Ok Steve, thanks – I’m aware of the certification costs for NMEA2000, I was just thinking the could have used the NMEA 2000 physical connectors on their CanBus device, much like other vendors have done, which would have been a lot more robust in the marine environment. But perhaps the 5-pin structure is insufficient for their design…. Mic [January 23, 2020 at 11:25 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-183) Coincidentally, I was just looking at the Actisense website and noticed that they sell a weatherproof Ethernet connector, p/n RJ45-FFC. [https://www.actisense.com/products/rj45-ffc/](https://www.actisense.com/products/rj45-ffc/?ref=seabits.com) I’m sure you could get this OTS part from many vendors such as Mouser or Newark. Looking at the Wakespeed Communications Guide [http://www.wakespeed.com/Wakespeed%20%20Communications%20and%20Configuration%20Guide%20v2.0.2.pdf](http://www.wakespeed.com/Wakespeed%20%20Communications%20and%20Configuration%20Guide%20v2.0.2.pdf?ref=seabits.com) I see that you can put the CAN bus into a NMEA2000 comm mode. Although they recommend a CAN/NMEA2000 bridge to be on the safe side. That would be an interesting project for a rainy day. Wolfgang Jansen [June 23, 2020 at 7:44 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-113) By coincedence I stumbled over a project called “VSR Alternator Regulator”. See [http://arduinoalternatorregulator.blogspot.com/](http://arduinoalternatorregulator.blogspot.com/?ref=seabits.com) This open source project is the base of the WS500 Carl [October 30, 2020 at 6:18 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-44) I’m considering using the Wakespeed on a cat with twin Yanmar sail drives as part of upgrading to the Balmar XT170 alternators. Yanmar engines have a well known problem of confused tachometers when charging from two engines. Do you know if the two inter-connected Wakespeeds will leave the tachometers working correctly? David de Regt [November 8, 2020 at 7:00 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-32) I was looking into getting some Balmar regulators and realized I should check your site to see what you’ve done. This solution is quite interesting, though a fair bit more expensive, and complicated to set up, than the Balmar stuff. Have you tried their NMEA 2000 update yet? It sounds a bit sketchy, especially in the dual-engine configuration, due to overlapping IDs and non-N2k frames being sent around. So I’m wondering if you’ve had any luck with it. But if I could get true charging info on my full N2k network, that’d be a big boon. [Steve](http://blog.sailingintermezzo.com/?ref=seabits.com) [December 11, 2020 at 11:32 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-19) Thanks for this well-written, informative review. I’m going to upgrade the engine charging system on my twin-engine catamaran using Wakespeed WS-500 regulators. I note that you used your Victron BMV battery monitor shunt for current sense. I would like to do likewise. Did you just connect the current sense wires to the screw terminals on the shunt? Also, would like to confirm that no programming or other gizmos were required to have your two alternators play well with each other via the Wakespeeds. Just the CANbus cable connection between the two was required? Thanks for all your great work. Love you blog! DeWayne Enyeart [September 30, 2021 at 2:56 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-5631) Steve: I am considering upgrading the alternator and regulator on my trawler to a Balmar XT-175 and a Wakespeed WS-500\. Could you update your experience with these devices? Thanks - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 30, 2021 at 3:41 pm](https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/#comment-5638) One of my XT-175s had a wiring issue and needed a small repair. Other than that, the alternators have been pumping out 140-150 amps each for many, many hours charging up my LiFePO4 bank. The WS-500s have been a bit more challenging. A software upgrade caused one of the features I used to require a lot more configuration, and it took a few months of back and forth to get it resolved. They are still hands down the best regulators I’ve ever used, but you do need to be prepared for some programming and tweaking if you have a non-standard configuration. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 10 comments Patrick@svviolethour January 27, 2023 This article was super influential + helpful in my decision to get Wakespeed (installing it this week). They included ATC fuses + holders in your bundle? Dang. Not with mine, guess they’re no longer included. I think that explains why the manual says they recommend ATC fuses. I was scratching my head trying to figure out why I need to go specifically buy an ATC fuse/holder when I have tons of AGC glass fuses/holders on hand. Interestingly, you note battery temp sensor is not needed because lithium batteries aren’t temperature compensated. That’s what I thought too but the Dragonfly sales/tech rep told me to get the battery temp sense too. He said it could still be used to shut down charging if the batteries were too hot or cold. (this may actually be useful because our home base is Alaska now and the batteries can’t charge below about 32F - although this is unlikely given the seawater influence on bilge temps). Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 January 27, 2023 svviolethour: > They included ATC fuses + holders in your bundle? Dang. Not with mine, guess they’re no longer included. I think that explains why the manual says they recommend ATC fuses. I was scratching my head trying to figure out why I need to go specifically buy an ATC fuse/holder when I have tons of AGC glass fuses/holders on hand. That’s good to know! It doesn’t surprise me that some things have started to change since Dragonfly bought them. There were a few different harnesses you could choose from in the past, and they had some different options. svviolethour: > Interestingly, you note battery temp sensor is not needed because lithium batteries aren’t temperature compensated. That’s what I thought too but the Dragonfly sales/tech rep told me to get the battery temp sense too. He said it could still be used to shut down charging if the batteries were too hot or cold. (this may actually be useful because our home base is Alaska now and the batteries can’t charge below about 32F - although this is unlikely given the seawater influence on bilge temps). That’s a good point. The temperature sensor would help with extreme temp situations for sure. I know some folks have had issues with engine rooms and high temperatures with BMS shutdowns, so that makes sense! Thanks for providing updated info on Wakespeed via Dragonfly. Jill Horton@Jill\_Horton February 17, 2023 Hello, I have to replace the Balmar MC-614 in my campervan due to corrosion. Would the WS-500 be an appropriate replacement? I like the fact that it has a cover since my Balmar is installed on top of the wheel well and is subject to water from rain or washing the van. Thank you! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 February 21, 2023 The WS-500 can definitely replace the MC-614 in terms of functionality, and it has a lot more features than the Balmar. It is in a waterproof case but I would check the specifications as to how waterproof it is. fayaway@fayaway October 01, 2024 Hey Steve, Thanks for sharing all this - I’ve been a lurker for quite a while reading your posts! I’ve recently took the plunge to redesign and upgrade our boat’s existing Battleborn / Balmar 12V system to a 24V system. This involved going to Wakespeed WS-500 and a larger ATS alternator. One issue still lingering is the engine tach (on analog engine instrument panel) cuts out now that Wakespeed completely shuts off the field signal as needed. Worse is that engine hours also die. Our engine doesn’t use a flywheel sensor, so everything comes from the alternator/Wakespeed. Question: If Wakespeed can calculate its own engine RPM and transmit via NMEA (which is seems to do nicely and without interruption) then why can’t I get an uninterrupted tach signal? Is there any way to get a simulated field output back from NMEA or Wakespeed to keep my tach going? Thanks so much! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 October 03, 2024 Oooh that’s an interesting issue. I’ve not heard of that before. Quite annoying I can imagine! Have you engaged with Wakespeed technical support to see if they have any ideas? They may have a mode or option that could help here. Alternatively, you could just switch to NMEA 2000 gauges / displays and abandon the analog gauges I suppose… Richard Jackson@Richard\_Jackson February 17, 2025 Hi Steve - thanks for the inspiration here. I have bought dual balmar alternators and WS500s and hope to connect them to my 24V House bank which is also charged via a Victron Mulitplus with SmartShunt. I’ve seen conflicting info about where to connect the current sense for the WS500s - some are saying I need a separate shunt on each alternator source but then I’m confused how the WS500 knows what the other charging sources are contributing to the overall charge current. In your system do you have a single shunt and connect both WS500s current sense inputs to that? Appreciate any guidance here! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #9 February 19, 2025 Hi Richard, I sold this boat a while ago, but have worked on a number of dual alternator configurations with WS500s. Where are you getting the info on multiple shunts? You should have gotten install documentation that outlines options for using an existing shunt, one you provide/they provide, or even getting that information from a BMS via CANbus. Richard Jackson@Richard\_Jackson↩ #10 February 19, 2025 Thanks for the feedback. Perhaps I can forward you the technical advice I received from the company that I purchased the WS500 regulators from and maybe you can comment on that? Ideally, since the Victron Lynx Smart BMS device that I am using has a built-in shunt, it can send current-sense data to the WS500s via CAN and I would not need to connect the analog current sense wires at all. But I haven’t seen any specific documentation that confirms that this will work. Thanks! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #11 February 21, 2025 A full system diagram would be helpful The Lynx BMS should be able to send everything the WS500 needs via CAN without having too much of the dedicated wiring. There are some things you still need to connect, but that is pretty well covered in the WS500 documentation. Happy to look at whatever they’ve sent you. You can reach me [here](https://seabits.com/consulting/) or via DM here in the forum. ### Upgrading VHF and AIS antennas URL: https://seabits.com/upgrading-vhf-and-ais-antennas/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:17:05.000Z I have wanted to update my VHF antennas for a while, specifically to get a dedicated AIS antenna for my Class B transponder. I decided to move forward with this project this winter. [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) came with two Shakespeare VHF antennas which were connected to a radio each in the salon and on the flybridge. I added a Vesper VHF / AIS splitter and various AIS Class B transponders, depending on what I was testing. I added this splitter to the salon VHF as I used it the least. The existing antennas were OK outside, but the ends at the radios were in bad condition. They had poorly crimped ends, and exposed wiring. The outside cabling was also wearing where it came out of thru hull openings and had exposed cabling. After finding these when I bought Rendezvous, I replaced them with the same ends that I used on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) and documented in [Proper VHF ends are easier than you think](https://seabits.com/proper-vhf-ends-easier-than-you-think/), but I wanted a higher quality solution. In looking for replacement antennas, I immediately thought of [Morad](https://www.morad.com/?ref=seabits.com). Several friends and the folks over at [Slowboat](http://slowboat.com/2018/05/vhf-ais-performance-upgrade-morad-antennas/?ref=seabits.com) have recommended them, and I’ve always wanted, if the chance arrived, to have them myself. After some emails exchanged with Morad, I had my parts list and placed the order. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Morad-shipping-containers-768x1024.jpeg) ## Equipment List ### VHF Antennas - 2x [VHF antennas](https://www.morad.com/collections/antennas/products/vhf-antenna-156-hot-rod?ref=seabits.com) – black anodized - 2x [V5 5′ stanchion](https://www.morad.com/products/v5-stanchion?variant=19769193529437&ref=seabits.com) – black anodized - 2x [M87 – Stanchion/Thread Adapter](https://www.morad.com/products/m87-stanchion-thread-adapter?variant=19763607994461&ref=seabits.com) – black anodized - 1x [M6 – 1 inch diameter Bulkhead Mounts (pair)](https://www.morad.com/products/m6-bulkhead-mounts?%5Fpos=1&%5Fsid=f271ea4a0&%5Fss=r&ref=seabits.com) - 2x [M6B – Spacer Block](https://www.morad.com/products/m6b-spacer-block?%5Fpos=1&%5Fsid=9f14d2fb3&%5Fss=r&ref=seabits.com) - 2x [25′ coax VHF cable](https://www.morad.com/collections/installation/products/coax-25-ft?ref=seabits.com) ### AIS Antenna - 1x [162MHz AIS tuned antenna](https://www.morad.com/collections/antennas/products/vhf-antenna-162-hd-ais?ref=seabits.com) – black anodized - 1x [V2 – 2 ft. Stanchion](https://www.morad.com/products/v2-stanchion?variant=34129909201&ref=seabits.com) – black anodized - 1x [M88R – round flange mount](https://www.morad.com/products/m88r-round-flange-mount?%5Fpos=1&%5Fsid=3bf762679&%5Fss=r&ref=seabits.com) - 1x [25′ coax VHF cable](https://www.morad.com/collections/installation/products/coax-25-ft?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/VHF-vs-AIS-morad-antennas-768x1024.jpeg) VHF (left) vs AIS (right) antenna length ## Design ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Morad-VHF-antenna-end-768x1024.jpeg) VHF antenna – connection end Morad uses a nice design that allows for various different mounting options and combinations. One of the best parts of this modularity is how the cable connects to the antenna itself. Instead of having to figure out how to reverse turn the cable, or do other scary things to a brand new antenna, the bottom of the antenna has a female connection, and allows you to screw the connector on, and then use hex wrenches to attach it to a mounting point. It seems small, and other vendors provide similar solutions, but Morad’s full set of equipment has this across all of the antennas and mounts. I chose black anodized versions of the antennas and components based on feedback from a friend who had a white version have flaking issues with the paint. The black, being anodized, won’t have that issue. I did have to be a bit more careful not to scratch them while installing. It also had a side effect of matching my flybridge canvas and sort of disappearing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Morad-vhf-coax-cable-768x1024.jpeg) Their VHF coax cabling is also well thought out. One end is the standard PL-259 connector, while the other is a much smaller connector, allowing you to pull it through small holes and locations without compromising the factory end. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Morad-VHF-antenna-768x1024.jpeg) Morad’s VHF antennas are easy to spot most of the time. They have a much larger aluminum lower body with a small thin whip for the top portion of the antenna. With my new design, I was adding at least 1 foot to the overall height, yet I ended up with about the same (or less) weight, and less windage at the top as a result of the smaller whip. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Morad-VHF-antennas-and-extension-768x1024.jpeg) 5′ extension (left) and VHF (center) and AIS antennas ## Cable Glands Part of the reason the cables on the old antennas failed was the cable glands from the outside into the flybridge void areas. They had some sort of screw down compression rings, and very little rubber between the cable and the stainless steel ring, and they had rubbed through the outer jacket of the VHF cable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Seaview-cable-gland-1024x768.jpeg) Seaview stainless steel cable gland I chose to use [Seaview stainless steel cable glands](https://www.seaviewglobal.com/products/cable-glands?variant=12309223440482&ref=seabits.com), which were quite a bit bigger than the old ones, but would provide a lot better seal and protection. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Seaview-copper-cutter-768x1024.jpeg) Copper cutter One of the coolest ideas I’ve seen in a while, Seaview includes a set of copper tubes that you can use in a drill to cut the hole in the rubber plug that goes in the gland. I have put a lot of cable glands on my boats, given the amount of antennas, cables, and other things I run outside. Trying to drill a hole in one of these plugs is not only frustrating, but downright dangerous. Even when you have it in the mount, securely screwed down to a board, it still binds on the drill bit quite a bit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Seaview-cable-gland-parts-2-1024x768.jpeg) The copper tubes are sharp, and cut through the rubber very easily and quickly. There are a number of sizes that come with the gland, allowing you to pick the perfect size for the cable you’re running through. ## Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Seaview-gland-mounted-768x1024.jpeg) Seaview gland in place – dark stains are from old rubber on original seal Installation was pretty straightforwards. The VHF antennas went on to the existing mounts, but with an additional upper mounts for strength. I ran the new VHF cables which was the hardest part since one pulled apart, and required some work with a cable tape. The smaller ends made a huge difference in pulling the cables. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Seaview-gland-completed-768x1024.jpeg) Seaview gland completed The Seaview glands were pretty easy to install after getting the right size hole in the rubber plug. They look a lot sharper than the original ones, and are far more securely connected to the boat with the plastic base and then upper stainless collar. They’re also much better at keeping the cable secure and the whole setup waterproof. I followed Morad’s instructions and used silicone grease wherever there were joints, and used the hex keys to tighten everything down nice and snug. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Morad-VHF-antenna-main-768x1024.jpeg) I chose to add a bulkhead mount above the existing ratchet mount to provide for additional stability and strength. This area of the flybridge has no access to the back of the mount or general area. I would have rather replaced the entire mount with a beefier system, but there was no way to do that without cutting huge holes inside and somehow patching them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Morad-VHF-antenna-side-768x1024.jpeg) Both VHF antennas are far more stable and secure than they were before, have brand new cables and antennas, yet are still able to be folded down if needed. The AIS antenna required a new mount on the arch, and a new cable run down to the flybridge equipment area. I also moved the AIS transponder up to the flybridge, and removed the VHF splitter from the salon. So far, I have seen a dramatic difference in both my [Furuno VHF](https://seabits.com/furuno-fm-4800/) in the flybridge, and the Standard Horizon VHF in the salon. Not only can I hear more in general, but it is clearer and easier to understand. I’ve done some test calls with friends, and they are able to hear me very well. AIS was more measurable since I am a base station and transmit my data to various services online. By switching to a correctly tuned AIS antenna with a better cable and eliminating the splitter, I saw an increase from around 110 to 195 vessels being “seen” and tracked. That’s almost double the coverage. Of course, most of those vessels are probably further away, which would not matter as much for avoidance, but as a base station, it improves what I can see of course. I’ve noticed I can now see vessels in Lake Washington and much further south/north than ever before. This data was gathered with the boat sitting at my home marina. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/Morad-VHF-antenna-oblique-768x1024.jpeg) This upgrade has already helped in the few trips I’ve been on – much clearer conversations on VTS channel 14 between all the ferries and ships, and much more AIS targets while underway. I’m glad I was able to get this project done this winter! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Chris [April 14, 2020 at 8:25 pm](https://seabits.com/upgrading-vhf-and-ais-antennas/#comment-147) Hi Steve, I’m about to do an electrical refit on my boat. I was planning to run 2 Shakespear 5230 (14ft) antennas. I have 2 Icom M506 radios. One of the antennas will have a splitter on it for the Garmin AIS module and VHF. Do you think there could be potential performance degradation by splitting it? Thanks, Chris M/V Brigadoon Chris [April 15, 2020 at 2:29 pm](https://seabits.com/upgrading-vhf-and-ais-antennas/#comment-144) Hi Steve, The AIS is a black box unit from Garmin: [https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/623924](https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/623924?ref=seabits.com) and has a powered splitter built into it. I elected to go with a standalone AIS box vs a VHF radio with a built in unit as i’ve had issues with them on my previous sail boat. The guy helping me install these said there was little signal degradation but wanted to get your take on it. Chris M/V Brigadoon - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 15, 2020 at 5:42 pm](https://seabits.com/upgrading-vhf-and-ais-antennas/#comment-145) I don’t see in the specs for that unit where it says it is a powered splitter, or offers amplification, but that could be hidden elsewhere. Nevertheless, this should not add much in terms of signal loss. You have a second radio anyhow which will be directly cabled, so in sketchy areas of coverage, you could always use that one. If possible consider putting the AIS unit/splitter on the least used location/radio. Rob [July 8, 2020 at 4:38 pm](https://seabits.com/upgrading-vhf-and-ais-antennas/#comment-101) Hey Steve, I actually work for Morad and thought you might light to know that your friend is probably mistaken regarding the flaking of the white antennas (unless he seriously scratched one and a long period of time took its toll). He’s probably referring to a white power coated adapter since powder coating can flake from straight current. ### Victron GX now sends NMEA 2000 URL: https://seabits.com/victron-new-support-for-nmea-2000/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:27:59.000Z It’s no secret that I love Victron’s control ecosystem. On my last three boats, I’ve had Victron bits that have helped provide visibility into the power system. Earlier this year, I finished the conversion on [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) to a mostly-Victron system which I wrote about in [Victron + Wakespeed + Battle Born power system](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/). One of the glaring holes in Victron’s communication has been with NMEA 2000\. In particular, their GX-series of devices has had very limited capabilities – in fact, they have only been able to receive information from the NMEA 2000 network, and only tank information. It was nice to be able to see tank levels on their devices, like the Color Control GX, but most people with NMEA 2000 tank level stuff already have ways of displaying that. There were various other NMEA 2000 interfaces you could get from Victron, but those were specifically for controlling devices, and as a side effect, you got some info from those devices on NMEA 2000\. I had the VE.Direct to NMEA 2000 interface, commonly used between a battery meter or solar charge controller, and I also had the VE.Bus to NMEA 2000 interface, used between an inverter/charger and other devices. However, using these had drawbacks – some features weren’t available unless you used native Victron busses. ## Enabling NMEA 2000 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/VE.Can-to-NMEA-2000.png) Victron VE.Can to NMEA 2000 cable You’ll need to be running v2.40 or later of Victron’s GX software – they released v2.41 recently that addressed some initial bugs in the NMEA 2000 support. I’m using a Color Control GX for these examples, but it also works for other GX products like the Venus, etc. You will also need a VE.Can to NMEA 2000 cable, available through Victron resellers for about $95 US. I purchase my Victron stuff from [PKYS](https://shop.pkys.com/Victron-Energy-ASS030520200-VECan-to-NMEA2000-Cable%5Fp%5F6562.html?ref=seabits.com). When you install the VE.Can cable, you’ll need to make sure your VE.Can network has a terminator (should have been provided with the GX product you have) and if you have an existing, powered NMEA 2000 network, remove the fuse from the cable so you don’t create a short circuit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/CCGX-services-menu-1.png) Once you have the cable connected, in the Settings -> Services menu you will find an option for CAN-bus. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/CCGX-CAN-bus.png) Once inside the CAN-bus menu, using the default profile, and turning the “Send data to VE.Can” on should get traffic flowing to your NMEA 2000 network. ## Examining the NMEA 2000 traffic ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Maretron-Device-List.png) Maretron N2Kanalyzer showing Victron devices I have the following Victron devices: - [Color Control GX](https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/color-control?ref=seabits.com) – what the VE.Can to NMEA 2000 cable is plugged into, as well as everything else. - [MultiPlus 12v 3000w inverter/charger](https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters-chargers/multiplus-12v-24v-48v-800va-3kva?ref=seabits.com) – connected to the GX via VE.Bus cabling. - [BMV-712 smart battery monitor with shunt](https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/bmv-712-smart?ref=seabits.com) – connected to the GX via VE.Direct cabling. I also have several MPPT solar controllers but they aren’t installed yet. These devices provide all of their wealth of data to the Color Control GX, and it now is sending out data to my NMEA 2000 network. You can see four devices listed above – the MultiPlus is listed twice. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Victron-CCGX-nmea-2000.png) The Color Control GX shows up as a device but doesn’t send any electrical PGNs as it is just the device facilitating the communication for the other devices. ### Battery Data ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Victron-BMV-712-nmea-2000.png) The BMV-712 is sending two useful PGNs – 127506 and 127508. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Victron-BMV-712-DC-status.png) PGN 127506 – DC Detailed Status includes the state of charge (SOC) and time remaining. The other values do not appear to change or have data in them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Victron-BMV-712-battery-status.png) I have two batteries being monitored by my BMV-712 – my house bank is connected to the shunt and is considered battery instance 0 above, and the generator battery is connected to the second monitoring point only for voltage and shows up as instance 1. I now have battery voltage, battery current, state of charge and time remaining for my house bank, battery voltage for my generator battery all on the NMEA 2000 network. This was the primary info I wanted so that when I was elsewhere on the boat I could see the state of the house bank at a glance. ### Inverter / Shore Power Data ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Victron-MultiPlus-nmea-2000-dual.png) The data being sent out for the MultiPlus is a bit different. There are two NMEA 2000 devices. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Actisense-device-list.png) Actisense device display The Actisense NMEA Reader displays what the two MultiPlus devices are and shows that one is utility/shore, and the other is the output. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Victron-MultiPlus-shore-power.png) MultiPlus inverter on shore power Here’s what they look like when I am on shore power. You can see both devices have data from AC power sources, but the right one shows a much higher value. I assume this is my water heater or other devices that aren’t on the inverter side of the circuit – just the AC pass through. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Victron-MultiPlus-on-battery-power-inverting.png) MultiPlus inverter on battery power Here’s what they look like when I am on battery power with the inverter running AC loads. The right device is showing zero values, indicating that shore power is gone/off. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Victron-MultiPlus-left-hand-battery-charging.png) MultiPlus inverter charger, inverter, and battery status The above shows the left hand device, or 000502, which is the inverter side of things, but the PGNs for charger status, battery status, and inverter status. The charger and inverter status are useful, and pass along to other devices on the network to show the general state. The battery PGN is good to have too, if you don’t have a BMV or other device monitoring your battery state. Unfortunately, there’s no way I’ve found to configure instance IDs, so this battery status PGN conflicts with the one being sent by the BMV. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Victron-MultiPlus-right-weird-PGNs.png) The right hand device also has a bunch of proprietary PGNs which I assume would be used to exchange more detailed info that Victron needs to track, or perhaps control devices via NMEA 2000 that are Victron specific. ## Data is good ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/N2KView-Victron-display.png) Finally having battery and inverter data on the NMEA 2000 network is wonderful. Being able to see the state of my electrical system on the various Maretron DSM displays around the boat, and especially on the MFDs while underway is very convenient. It gives me clear visibility into what is going on with the system, and I can use the various alarms and alerts to help augment what Victron has. I also like having this data being logged constantly to my [Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder](https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/) so that I can analyze performance and any issues later on. It took a while for Victron to add this support, but I’m glad it’s finally here. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Greg Davydov [January 4, 2020 at 12:48 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-new-support-for-nmea-2000/#comment-197) Hi Steve, Do you know how Victron N2K data interfacing with SignalK? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 4, 2020 at 10:25 am](https://seabits.com/victron-new-support-for-nmea-2000/#comment-198) I think you’re asking how you can interface Victron N2K data within SignalK? By default, any N2K data will show up in SignalK if you have it configured with an N2K interface. You’ll see all of the various messages there that are on the NMEA 2000 network. However, if you do not have the NMEA 2000 cable for the GX product, you can use a plugin by Scott Bender to pull the information over the Ethernet/WiFi network directly from the GX product: [https://github.com/sbender9/signalk-venus-plugin](https://github.com/sbender9/signalk-venus-plugin?ref=seabits.com) I used this plugin for several years before the NMEA 2000 support came out. It pulls a ton more data from the GX product than NMEA 2000 does, but it is only visible in SignalK unless you use another plugin to send it out to other networks, which can get more complicated. Jurjen Hoekstra [January 7, 2020 at 1:45 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-new-support-for-nmea-2000/#comment-192) Hello Steve, what is the advantage of the Venus GX compared to a setup with a VE-Direct to NMEA2000 converter and a VE-Bus to NMEA2000 converter? Is there now more data available on the NMEA2000 which one can display? I have a set-up with a VE-Direct and VE-Bus converter on my motoryacht Xanthiona and am considering the Venus GX, but do not see yet how it would benefit. I use SeaSmart ethernet module to publish the NMEA2000 data for the purpose of remote monitoring to the HelmSmart cloud service. One thing the service does not distinguish between is the shore power and the output power. See also: [http://www.xanthiona.com](http://www.xanthiona.com/?ref=seabits.com) - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 7, 2020 at 1:36 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-new-support-for-nmea-2000/#comment-194) You likely see the same (or more) data on your NMEA 2000 network that you would with a Venus GX. So you probably wouldn’t see any more data on your NMEA 2000 network, although it sounds like you don’t see both sides of the AC stuff which you would with the new firmware. The few advantages I can think of are as follows: First, Victron has said they are deprecating the interfaces you’re using, so there could be new PGNs or firmware updates to products that those interfaces no longer support. Second, as you cover in your post on your site, is the integration with Victron’s VRM portal that the Venus GX has. This would allow you to control and monitor the electrical system via their portal/apps instead of SeaSmart. I’ve demoed SeaSmart before, and I think you would have more control in general over your Victron components with the VRM than SeaSmart. Third would be the additional AC data. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 4 comments Christine Hodgins@Christine\_Kling February 15, 2022 Thanks so much for this article. I am finally back to work on the Maretron system on MÖBIUS, and I have been at it for several days trying to get the Victron Cerbo to play nice with my N2K network. Your comments in the Victron Community about possibly having a bad cable sent me to considering other troubleshooting issues, and I switched my cable to the other VE can port and voila! Bad cables, bad ports. After that I got the OctoGX online too. But now with 14 MPPT Smart Solar controllers, 3 BVM712s, 5 Multiplus Inverter chargers, I have a huge long list of Instancing issues. Many of these seem to disregard the device instance and data instance which I can change in N2K Analyzer. Is this what you were referring to when you wrote, “Unfortunately, there’s no way I’ve found to configure instance IDs, so this battery status PGN conflicts with the one being sent by the BMV.” I have lots of conflicting battery status instances, and yet when I try to create an element on in screen in N2KView, it doesn’t find anything. Any suggestions as to how to make this mess work? [![IMG_0523](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/1108db51565730a86b5820a532b6ecd96b8c3b07.jpeg)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/1108db51565730a86b5820a532b6ecd96b8c3b07.jpeg?ref=seabits.com "IMG_0523") Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 February 18, 2022 You’ve found one of the achilles heels of how Victron implemented things. My last boat had three conflicting battery PGNs on the N2K network from their equipment, and using N2KView from Maretron was almost impossible as a result. Several other folks I know are struggling with this same challenge. I would urge you to open conversations with Victron, as many of us have, and see if they will consider fixing their broken implementation, or at least honoring the way it works through instancing so we could use things. I’m building my new system on Kaos and will have 6 shunts, 2 inverters, a passel of DC-DC chargers, and a handful of solar controllers, and I expect they will all dump the wrong info onto the network as well. I know one way I was able to get around this was to use SignalK to grab the Victron data directly from the GX product and put it on the N2K network in a more organized fashion. I need to revisit how I did this and will be doing so shortly. Christine Hodgins@Christine\_Kling February 19, 2022 Thank you so much for this reply. I’ve been looking at this for days and trying to understand what was going on. There are several things that cause our system design to be overly complicated, but these are not unheard of circumstances for today’s vessels. First, we wanted to be a “world boat,” so we while we are basically 240V, we also have 110V. Victron does not recommend attaching two strings of different Multiplus inverters to the same GX device, hence we have both a Cerbo (for 240V) and an Octo GX (for 110V) on our network. Then we have our twenty-four 4V Firefly batteries divided into four subgroups of 6 batteries each. We have 3 BMVs - One for group 1 + 2 which we call bank 1 and the other for bank 2, and the third for both banks combined or our total House Battery capacity. And then we have 14 individual MPPT controllers for each of our solar panels connected to the Cerbo. Thus, can you imagine how many devices were sending out Battery status PGN’s? This meant when we accessed the VRM, we had two installations, one for the Cerbo and one for the Octo, and everything was neatly separated. We had to switch from one to other to get the whole picture, but that was fine. What surprised me most was how much information the Victron devices took back off the network when I connected them to N2K. While we were not using the tank or temperature connections on the Cerbo, once connected to N2K, suddenly some of our Maretron tank and temperature sensors appeared as Victron connections in the VRM. Both the Octo and the Cerbo suddenly showed not three, but six BMV’s. I knew this was all related to the instancing, so I tried to find info on Victron’s site. The two main places I found info was in their section on [MFD integration](https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Cerbo%5FGX/en/marine-mfd-integration-by-nmea2000.html?ref=seabits.com) and here on [Changing N2K Instances](https://www.victronenergy.com/live/ve.can:changing%5Fnmea2000%5Finstances?ref=seabits.com). I am loath to follow any of these instructions for changing instances, since they start off with a warning that they advise you NOT to do this or you might inhibit the Victron devices from talking to each other. I really appreciate all the information you share on your site, and I will definitely take you up on a couple of your suggestions here. I will both contact Victron about this, and I will start tinkering with the Raspberry Pi we bought recently so perhaps we can use that as a method to sort all this out. Fortunately, you have blogs to teach me about the Pi and SignalK, so I will have plenty to keep me busy while waiting for your SignalK/Victron post. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 February 23, 2022 I’ve seen all of these issues as well unfortunately. The tank thing is particularly irritating. As I mentioned, I’ve considered not connecting the Victron equipment to my existing NMEA 2000 network and just using SignalK to connect via TCP / ethernet. It could then put specific info back on NMEA 2000 so that N2Kview could process it and alert on it, or alternatively, use other parts of SignalK, Grafana, or the like to provide alerting and monitoring. There are still some limitations in that approach, but I haven’t found them all yet. Hopefully in the next month that will happen as components are installed and shipments arrive! ### Poynting OMNI LTE antennas URL: https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:19:14.000Z My go-to antenna for a long time has been the [Wilson Wide Band Omni-Directional Marine Antenna](https://amzn.to/2SfTmso?ref=seabits.com). One of the main reasons besides performance is the build quality and marine mount. There are better antennas in terms of gain, but they have issues with mounting, quality, and longevity. You can read more about my testing with the Wilson and other antennas in [Best LTE antenna and booster for the boat](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/). ## Poynting Antennas [Poynting](https://poynting.tech/about/?ref=seabits.com) has been around since 2001 and is based out of South Africa with a satellite office in Germany. They have a bunch of different antennas and technologies, and a [really cool diagram showing all of them, their purpose, frequencies, and more](https://poynting.tech/choice-of-antenna/?ref=seabits.com). I had used some of their equipment a few years ago, but was intrigued with their 400 series antennas. I chose the following two antennas and used them for the last few months: - [OMNI-400](https://poynting.tech/product/omni-400/?ref=seabits.com) – omni directional antenna with a max gain of 7.5 dBi - [OMNI-402](https://poynting.tech/product/omni-402/?ref=seabits.com) – 2×2 MIMO omni directional antenna with a max gain of 6.5 dBi The OMNI-400 is a single cable omni antenna similar to the Wilson, while the OMNI-402 is a dual element 2×2 MIMO omni antenna with two cables, all in one antenna. For the 402, this means you could connect it to your router or other device and have a single-unit diversity setup, hopefully providing better throughput in higher signal areas, and longer reach in lower signal areas. Note that you would need two cables from the antenna to your device. You can read more about [antenna diversity on Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antenna%5Fdiversity?ref=seabits.com). > Help support SeaBits and purchase your Poynting antennas from Milltech Marine, a local company I trust and have an affiliate relationship with: > [Poynting OMNI-400](https://sbits.us/omni400?ref=seabits.com) > [Poynting OMNI-402](https://sbits.us/omni402?ref=seabits.com) ## Installation and Build As you can see from the picture at the beginning of this article, the OMNI-402 (top) is a bit larger than the OMNI-400 (bottom) – the pictures and boxes are pretty accurate representations of the overall size. This would make sense since the 402 has two elements. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-OMNI-402-2.jpg) OMNI-402 on test mounting One thing that really impressed me with the Poynting antennas was their build quality and mounting options. Most antennas I have used have really poor marine mountings, or none at all. Many require you to reverse twist your really nice low-loss cable coming to the antenna, so that when you screw the antenna on the marine mount, it doesn’t spin the cable and destroy it. Even the Wilson marine antenna has this issue. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-mounting-base.jpg) Bottom of Poynting marine mount The Poynting antennas come in modular pieces. The bottom portion includes a well built base with a marine mount and a large hole to pass cables through. It is separated from the upper antenna portion. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-mounting-base-seal.jpg) Top of Poynting marine mount The top of the mount portion includes a thick rubber seal, and four holes for the screws that go up from the bottom into the antenna. This allows you to screw down the base very tightly and thread the antenna cable through the hole without having the antenna in the way, reverse spinning the cable, or any other nonsense. Very well thought out approach to mounting. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-antenna-base.jpg) Bottom of OMNI-400 antenna The bottom of the antenna has matching screw holes and, of course, the cable connector. Installation with this system cannot be overlooked – this is the best marine installation setup I have seen in an LTE antenna. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-OMNI-400-mounting-cable.jpg) OMNI-400 mounting base with cable If you can’t route your cable down the marine mount, there is also a punch out that you could use on the side of the mounting base. However, it is not big enough for a standard connector – you’d need to run the cable the other direction with the small end threaded from this location first. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-alternate-mounting.jpg) Poynting also include a big beefy stainless steel L-bracket and associated hardware so you could attach the antenna to a pole or other vertical item. This is usually an add-on item for antennas, or it is not marine grade, and rusts or looks bad within a few months. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-OMNI-400-mounted-2.jpg) OMNI-401 mounted on the flybridge arch The top of the antenna feels nice and weighty, but not overly heavy. It has an aerodynamic design, and is quite nice to look at. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-vs-Wilson.jpg) Wilson LTE vs Poynting OMNI-400 Compared to the Wilson marine antenna, the Poynting OMNI-400 is almost twice as tall. The OMNI-402 is even taller. ## Specifications Both antennas have really excellent specification sheets on Poynting’s website: - [OMNI-400 spec sheet](https://poynting.tech/demo/content/images/2018/08/OMNI-400%5FTechnicalSpecification%5FDocument%5FV1.pdf?ref=seabits.com) - [OMNI-402 spec sheet](https://poynting.tech/demo/content/images/2018/10/TS-A-OMNI-0402-Rev2.pdf?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Poynting-OMNI-400-frequency-bands.png) OMNI-400 Frequency Bands – courtesy of Poynting specifications I really appreciate that Poynting not only includes a good description of the specifications and features, but shows mounting options, a graphical representation of bands and frequencies covered, VSWR and Gain charts, and radiation patterns. Not all manufacturers provide this – you may have to request it from them specifically, if they even share it. Poynting also say you can use these antennas for snagging remote WiFi signals, and even show them in a diagram with a splitter to allow you to switch back and forth. I personally prefer the MikroTik for this, but I could see how this could be useful on a sailboat or other boat with limited outdoor mounting space. I assume it would be mutually exclusive, however, and that you could only use one device at a time. Both antennas cover the same frequencies which include all of the major bands used by US and Canadian cellular providers, both for 3G and 4G/LTE. The OMNI-400 claims 7.5 dBi peak gain, while the 402 claims only 6.5 dBi but of course has two elements and cables. ## Testing Results I’ve been using these antennas for a while, swapping back and forth during various conditions, similar to what I’ve used in my previous methodologies. This included 6 different locations including my marina, several urban areas, and several remote areas. It also included two different LTE providers, T-Mobile and Verizon. ### OMNI-402 Results I had mixed hopes for this antenna, having had very OK-to-poor results with any multi-element antenna in the past. Those hopes were mostly fulfilled, as I didn’t see groundbreaking performance, but I did see a difference potentially worth considering. Overall, the antenna performed well. At some points it performed just about as well as the Wilson marine. I had hoped to see better throughput results given that it is a diversity antenna, but those results were mixed. Sometimes it was faster than other choices, but overall it was just a solid performer. In some limited situations, I saw much higher throughput than with a single antenna of any kind, and I suspect this was directly attributed to the dual elements / diversity. However, this was only with very specific, urban areas where the throughput side of diversity came in to play. Diversity can also help with hard to reach signals, but with the OMNI-402, I didn’t see that as much as I would like to – the OMNI-400 was much better. Overall, I don’t think the OMNI-402 is worth the $400+ price for what you get. It would likely be better for diversity to have two OMNI-400’s mounted apart from eachother at the same cost. ### OMNI-400 Results This antenna outperformed the OMNI-402 easily, and **outperformed all other antennas I have aboard –** whether mounted or in boxes. It was better than my standard Wilson antenna, and even the BoatAnt antenna, which held the record for best performing antenna even though it had a terrible marine mount, and the company stopped making it. The OMNI-400 did well in all conditions – at the dock, underway, in urban areas, and in remote areas. Compared to the Wilson, it outperformed it by a measurable amount every time. Sometimes this was just a little bit better signal in the Peplink dashboard, resulting in a bit more throughput. Other times, it was a significant improvement with double or triple the performance – upload, download, lower latency, better signal. I was very surprised at how consistent the antenna was in all of these conditions. For $200, this is my new recommended antenna for anyone needing a good quality marine-grade LTE antenna for a booster or router. ## Conclusion The Poynting OMNI-400 is my new favorite marine antenna for a couple of reasons: - Marine quality mount - Easy to mount and keeps your cable safe - Performance After several years of the Wilson being the top antenna, I’m happy to see innovation continuing in the industry, and can easily recommend the Poynting in its place. For $200 you’ll end up with an easier to mount antenna with better performance. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Anthony W Baker](http://www.a2baker.com/?ref=seabits.com) [February 20, 2020 at 7:36 pm](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/#comment-164) Steve – sorry to bother but would the OMNI-400 be a good solution for my Verizon 8800 Jet Pack. It appears I would need a cable adapter…any advice you would be will to share? Thank you in advance. Owen Anderson [April 29, 2020 at 8:43 pm](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/#comment-138) I see that the Omni 400 advertises being able to use it as a dual wifi/LTE antenna with a splitter. Have you ever tested such a configuration? Any thoughts on the pros/cons versus dedicated antennas? Giles Proctor [June 1, 2020 at 3:36 am](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/#comment-125) Agree, I’m half-way through installing an OMNI-400 (based on SeaBits strong review), and very impressed with initial signal testing. J Graham [June 16, 2020 at 2:56 am](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/#comment-119) Hi Steve – Many thanks for the great research and helpful information. I’m a fellow PNW boater and keep my boat in Anacortes. She is a Fleming 55\. I’d like ot ask your advice, based on your findings, on the antennas that you would use if you were me. I have a Pepwave MAX BR1 MK2 in my pilothouse. I have two antenna cables that I can use that run to my boat hardtop. Neither are ethernet wires. One connects to a Shakespeare 5239 and one to a basic older Wifi antenna. So I have two to work with as I spec my new antennas for Cell data and Wifi. I have the MAX BR1 in bridge mode and run a Ubiquiti Unifi router. I am guessing from what I read that you would suggest I use the following, is that right: Wifi: Poynting OMNI 496 LTE: Poynting OMNI 400 Would you add the weBoost Drive Reach, and connect it to the OMNI 400? And if so, would it be then hardwire connected to the MAX BR1 to the Cellular Main? And if I skipped the Drive Reach unit and direct connected the MAX BR1 to the OMNI 400 (or existing Shakespeare 5239), then would it be better to just use the two small antennas that come with the MAX BR1 (since there are two for MIMO)? Or connect the OMNI 400 to just one of the Cellular (Main or Diversity)? I’m not very good with MIMO and Diversity…just learning. Again Steve, thanks a ton. Really appreciate your insight. JG J Graham [June 18, 2020 at 3:43 am](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/#comment-117) Thank you! Excellent. Adi D [August 11, 2020 at 1:55 pm](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/#comment-79) Hi Steve, In a separate post you mentioned your current setup is now the MAX Transit CAT 18 with dual 402s. Given the point you make about diversity antennae being useful only in good coverage/urban settings, does it make sense to use that or is it better to still stick with 2 stock antenna as aux and 2 400s as the main setup? Thanks for the incredibly useful website Steve Valvasori [December 9, 2020 at 3:29 am](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/#comment-33) Hi Steve, Last year I “installed”/placed a ZTE MF288 ([https://community.zteusa.com/discussion/54048/zte-mf288-turbo-hub-which-antenna-is-for-what](https://community.zteusa.com/discussion/54048/zte-mf288-turbo-hub-which-antenna-is-for-what?ref=seabits.com)) on the seat in my flybridge to provide internet access. Our marina WIFI is always suspect and when we are out on the weekend in a bay, the LTE signal can be quite weak. This has worked reasonably well, but still suffers in low signal area’s – and also has the possibility of being sat on. It requires a 120VAC plug, and while I’d rather it ran off 12V, it runs fine on the inverter. We only need good data access, actual cell/phone call service is less important. Since you’ve tested a lot of solutions, including the NetGear LTE router and Peplink – I’d like to understand where the greatest gains are. I don’t mind (much) spending the money, but I’d hate to buy a Peplink and external OMNI antenna(s) only to have similar performance to my current setup. I have no problem getting my hands dirty – so I’m after better weak signal performance, not features that make my life easier (although those are accepted). Since my marina WIFI is horrible, I don’t switch from LTE to WIFI when I come back to the dock. So…where are the best gains to be had? Should I add external antennas to the ZTE MF288? How many (if you follow the link above it has 5 LTE on the outside). Will the external antenna actually provide a better signal, or just allow me to place the unit under the seat? If I bought a Peplink and OMNI antennas, would I be blown away by the new performance? Or, should I just keep what I have. Great site BTW, can’t believe it took me this long to find it. It came up on a SignalK related search. ### NMEA 2000 network troubleshooting tools URL: https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-troubleshooting-tools/ Last updated: 2025-02-23T20:03:52.000Z There are two main ways to troubleshoot a NMEA 2000 network – hardware and software. Most people should start with a hardware method to ensure the basic electrical properties of their network are sound. Software is more complex and expensive, but can help diagnose device configuration issues. ## NMEA 2000 Basics NMEA 2000 networks are electrically similar to a Controller Area Network (CAN) bus network which can be found on cars and trucks. CAN was released in 1986 with NMEA 2000 coming in the late 1990s, so it is already nearly 20 years old, and based on 30+ year old technology. It’s not the best network in the world, and has a lot of drawbacks and issues, but it is the standard we have to deal with for now. The bigger challenge in troubleshooting data on the network is actually the body that governs it – NMEA. From Wikipedia: “*NMEA divulges some information regarding the standard, it claims copyright over the standard and thus its full contents are not publicly available. For example, the NMEA publicizes which messages exist and which fields they contain, but they do not disclose how to interpret the values contained in those fields.*“ This makes it very hard to troubleshoot things without paying for an interface or product that is certified and understands all of the data on the network. In almost all cases, there will be data on an N2K network that another manufacturer’s tool won’t even understand and shows up as proprietary. Lots of folks have figured out the data in a PGN and helped document things that NMEA refuses to make public. I think it is unfortunate that NMEA has this policy of not sharing this information. It would not only make troubleshooting easier, but it would most likely **increase** the amount of people and devices using NMEA 2000 networks. I’m not suggesting that every random DIY’er like myself should be allowed to create and connect devices without being certified, as that could definitely be a problem. Someone spitting data onto an N2K network without having it be tested and certified could be dangerous, especially if it messed with navigational data you rely on. However, there has to be a middle ground where end users can see the data reasonably. I’m not holding my breath though, as this battle has been ongoing since NMEA 2000 came out…. I think NMEA 2000’s days are numbered with the need for higher data rates and modern protocols. Newer versions of products are already starting to use Ethernet, WiFi and other methods, so perhaps we won’t be talking about this in 5 years. But for now, NMEA 2000 is still the standard and will continue to be for a while. ### NMEA 2000 Data Wikipedia has a good description of how data messages move back and forth on a NMEA 2000 network: *NMEA 2000 messages are sent as packets that consist of a header followed by (typically) 8 bytes of data. The header for a message specifies the transmitting device, the device to which the message was sent (which may be all devices), the message priority, and the PGN (Parameter Group Number). The PGN indicates which message is being sent, and thus how the data bytes should be interpreted to determine the values of the data fields that the message contains.* We will be looking at PGNs when using software troubleshooting tools below. ## Methodology More than any of the hardware, tools or software below, having a logical methodology is an essential part of troubleshooting a NMEA 2000 network. I firmly believe this is important with **any** kind of troubleshooting, having spent the majority of my life working on electrical, mechanical, and networking devices. For NMEA 2000 networks, I recommend adopting one really simple mantra: **make one change at a time, and document what you change**. Making too many changes at once usually causes new problems, some of which you would never see in the real world. Writing down what you changed, in what order you changed it is also helpful. Once you’re able to reproduce or figure out the issue, the series of steps you took may be the key in identifying what is wrong. One of the best ways to troubleshoot an N2K network is to use the following basic steps: 1. Power down the NMEA 2000 network and all attached devices. 2. Power up everything one at a time until the problem starts. Write down what you powered up and in what order. Usually the last device is the culprit. In addition, for really finicky issues, physically unplugging all devices from the N2K network and adding each one back will let you narrow it down to a particular device. Whatever you do, do one thing at a time, and document as much as you can. For intermittent issues, see the tools below. ## Hardware ### DIY The easiest way to troubleshoot the physical electrical properties of your N2K network is with a multimeter and half of a NMEA 2000 drop cable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/N2K-cable-tester.jpg) My NMEA 2000 test cable Maretron has a good step-by-step guide on what to test which I usually refer to when I forget – [How do I check the health of my NMEA 2000 cabling before powering my network?](https://www.maretron.com/support/knowledgebase/phpkbv7/article.php?id=443&ref=seabits.com) It’s important to perform the testing with the right conditions – some tests are with power on and devices connected, some without devices connected, and some without power at all. The most common issues I’ve seen with my network and others are: - Bad / missing terminators - Wires crossed / grounded wrong – usually happens when using your own N2K ends and wires end up touching or are not wired correctly. - Voltage issues Also, make sure not to skip steps – test every tee, drop cable, and location. Just because it looks good at one location doesn’t mean that the voltage doesn’t drop somewhere else, or that you don’t have a crossed wire further down the line. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/IMG_5504.jpg) Checking N2K network voltage using a multimeter My test cable above is setup to allow the test probes from my multimeter to be held into the connecting points a bit so that I can move things around and test various drop cables, tees, and locations without things slipping out. This is the primary easy tool I start with when troubleshooting any NMEA 2000 issue. ### Professional / Expensive ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Maretron-N2K-meter.jpg) If you are a super N2K nerd like me, you will want the [Maretron N2K meter ](https://www.maretron.com/products/n2kmeter.php?ref=seabits.com)which is a pricey hardware device that takes testing to a new level. It can test what the DIY version does (voltage, termination, etc.) plus a lot more including: - Opens and shorts - Incorrect topology - Bad nodes - Improper shield connection - Intermittent problems - Excessive scan rate - Common mode voltage ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Maretron-N2K-meter-dial-1.jpg) Maretron N2K Meter testing selection It’s quite expensive, so unless you have an extensive network that you change a lot, I doubt many people would purchase this. However, for someone who **does** mess with their N2K network a lot, this is a lifesaver. You can set it in Auto Search mode, which cycles through all of the tests and displays only the ones that are failing, or step through each test individually. Depending on the problem I’m trying to solve, I’ll use a bit of both. In many cases, tracking down an intermittent problem is best found by leaving it on auto search so that whatever is happening is caught at least once over a period of time. Then you can flip it to that specific test and gather more data for a longer time, even step through data about individual connected devices, and a lot more for such a simple looking tool. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Maretron-N2K-meter-happy.jpg) Happy face when things are good If things are working well, you get a nice happy face at the top of the display, and the data for the particular test. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Maretron-N2K-meter-sad.jpg) Sad face when things are bad When something isn’t within the tests good parameters, you get either an indifferent or sad face, depending on how bad it is. A very quick way to tell that something is not working well. This is a fantastic tool to use on any NMEA 2000 network if you have it. It provides the most information I’ve ever found for the physical and electrical properties of a network, and allows you to do realtime monitoring to trace down harder to find issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/N2Ktester-manual.png) Excerpt from N2K tester’s manual – good reference! There is also a [phenomenal manual](https://www.maretron.com/support/manuals/N2KMeterUM%5F1.3.html?ref=seabits.com) that Maretron have written to accompany the device. It explains each test and why they’re important, what is good/bad/pass/fail and even diagrams the cable and reasons why in great detail. This is a good reference even without the N2K tester in case you are tracing down issues. I love my N2K tester and use this combined with at least one software solution when I’m troubleshooting N2K issues. If you’re in the Seattle area and have an N2K network you want to have tested, I’m always interested in seeing new things and happy to stop by with the tester! ## Software ### DIY – canboat / canable A cheap way to see what is on an N2K network is a [canable.io interface](https://canable.io/?ref=seabits.com) \+ [canboat](https://github.com/canboat/canboat?ref=seabits.com) software on a Linux machine. It doesn’t have a graphical interface, however, and can be challenging to find patterns due to the sheer amount of data you can capture. It can be useful to capture the data and send off to others to review. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Canable.jpg) I have had better luck using the [alternative firmware](https://canable.io/getting-started.html?ref=seabits.com#alt-firmware) which makes the canable show up as a native CAN device in more modern Linux kernels. You do have to setup the CAN device correctly with the right bus speed: `ip link set can0 up type can bitrate 250000` Once you have the canable configured and connected to your N2K network, it’s time to install canboat. Canboat has been around a long time, and has a [great wiki](https://github.com/canboat/canboat/wiki?ref=seabits.com) with info on how to install and use it. There are two main parts to canboat – the part that reads the data off of the N2K network, and the part that parses the data and displays it in human readable form. If you’re using a canable device, you won’t use the first part, as there will be a native CAN device (usually can0) that you can point canboat to, and things will just work. If you’re using an Actisense NGT device (see below) then you’ll need actisense-serial to connect to it and read the N2K network. ``` 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,0,262386,0,0,33,01,0e,00,5b,a0,03,00,00,00,00,00,02,12,02,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,2b,5e,02,0a,00,00,00,0f,00,00,00 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,2,127250,3,255,8,ff,a1,ae,ff,7f,ff,7f,fd 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,2,127250,36,255,8,c3,98,ba,00,00,f9,0a,fd 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,2,127250,0,255,8,ff,a1,ae,ff,7f,ff,7f,fd 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,2,129025,0,255,8,b9,83,63,1c,68,fd,0b,b7 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,4,129038,43,255,28,01,22,dd,e0,15,eb,e2,11,b7,3e,13,5b,1c,c4,37,c1,00,00,24,41,09,ff,ff,ff,7f,c0,f8,ff 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,2,127250,3,255,8,ff,a1,ae,ff,7f,ff,7f,fd 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,3,126992,43,255,8,4b,f0,45,47,10,62,15,28 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,2,129025,43,255,8,78,80,63,1c,68,fd,0b,b7 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,2,129026,43,255,8,4b,ff,ff,ff,01,00,ff,ff 2019-12-15T18:40:49.434Z,2,127250,36,255,8,c4,98,ba,00,00,f9,0a,fd 2019-12-15T18:40:49.464Z,2,127250,3,255,8,ff,a2,ae,ff,7f,ff,7f,fd 2019-12-15T18:40:49.464Z,7,65284,3,255,8,3f,9f,00,00,64,00,ff,ff 2019-12-15T18:40:49.464Z,2,127250,36,255,8,c5,98,ba,00,00,f9,0a,fd ``` Above is an example of the raw frames from an N2K network. This can still be useful to review, as seeing funky data in here could indicate an issue with a device, etc. depending on what is showing up. ``` 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 36 255 129025 Position, Rapid Update: Latitude = 47.6283933; Longitude = -122.3950816 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 36 255 129026 COG & SOG, Rapid Update: SID = 49; COG Reference = True; COG = 318.8 deg; SOG = 0.00 m/s 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 36 255 127250 Vessel Heading: SID = 243; Heading = 273.7 deg; Deviation = 0.0 deg; Variation = 16.1 deg; Reference = Magnetic 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 0 255 127250 Vessel Heading: SID = Unknown; Heading = 256.2 deg; Deviation = Unknown; Variation = Unknown; Reference = Magnetic 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 0 255 129025 Position, Rapid Update: Latitude = 47.6283933; Longitude = -122.3950816 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 3 255 127250 Vessel Heading: SID = Unknown; Heading = 256.2 deg; Deviation = Unknown; Variation = Unknown; Reference = Magnetic 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 4 43 255 129038 AIS Class A Position Report: Message ID = 3; Repeat Indicator = Initial; User ID = 366759130; Longitude = -122.3494815; Latitude = 47.6006550; Position Accuracy = Low; RAIM = not in use; Time Stamp = 38; COG = 255.8 deg; SOG = 7.45 m/s; Communication State = 0x1eb1; AIS Transceiver information = Channel A VDL reception; Heading = 255.0 deg; Rate of Turn = 0.00 deg/s; Nav Status = Unknown; Regional Application = 0 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 36 255 127250 Vessel Heading: SID = 244; Heading = 273.7 deg; Deviation = 0.0 deg; Variation = 16.1 deg; Reference = Magnetic 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 43 255 129025 Position, Rapid Update: Latitude = 47.6283000; Longitude = -122.3951000 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 3 255 127250 Vessel Heading: SID = Unknown; Heading = 256.2 deg; Deviation = Unknown; Variation = Unknown; Reference = Magnetic 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 2 36 255 127250 Vessel Heading: SID = 245; Heading = 273.7 deg; Deviation = 0.0 deg; Variation = 16.1 deg; Reference = Magnetic 2019-12-15T18:42:38.933Z 4 43 255 129038 AIS Class A Position Report: Message ID = 1; Repeat Indicator = Initial; User ID = 366764080; Longitude = -122.3789765; Latitude = 47.6589300; Position Accuracy = Low; RAIM = not in use; Time Stamp = 37; COG = 253.3 deg; SOG = 0.00 m/s; Communication State = 0x1c148; AIS Transceiver information = Channel A VDL reception; Heading = Unknown; Rate of Turn = Unknown; Nav Status = Under way using engine; Regional Application = 0 ``` Taking the raw data and using canboat’s analyzer produces a human readable result like above. However, it is a lot of data, and requires that you look through things to find any patterns. I took a sample from my network over a 30 second period and ended up with 7,624 messages. Most of those are fast updates for things like heading and such, but still overwhelming if you are trying to look for one particular issue. ``` 2019-12-15T18:45:57.978Z 6 88 255 127505 Fluid Level: Instance = 0; Type = Fuel; Level = 50.956 %; Capacity = 1135.6 L 2019-12-15T18:45:57.978Z 6 88 255 127505 Fluid Level: Instance = 1; Type = Water; Level = 65.264 %; Capacity = 567.8 L 2019-12-15T18:46:00.457Z 6 88 255 127505 Fluid Level: Instance = 0; Type = Fuel; Level = 50.956 %; Capacity = 1135.6 L 2019-12-15T18:46:00.457Z 6 88 255 127505 Fluid Level: Instance = 1; Type = Water; Level = 65.264 %; Capacity = 567.8 L 2019-12-15T18:46:02.958Z 6 88 255 127505 Fluid Level: Instance = 0; Type = Fuel; Level = 50.956 %; Capacity = 1135.6 L 2019-12-15T18:46:02.958Z 6 88 255 127505 Fluid Level: Instance = 1; Type = Water; Level = 65.264 %; Capacity = 567.8 L 2019-12-15T18:46:05.443Z 6 88 255 127505 Fluid Level: Instance = 0; Type = Fuel; Level = 50.956 %; Capacity = 1135.6 L 2019-12-15T18:46:05.443Z 6 88 255 127505 Fluid Level: Instance = 1; Type = Water; Level = 65.264 %; Capacity = 567.8 L ``` canboat does allow you to filter for one particular PGN – above I’m using the following command to just look for the fluid PGN, 127505: ``` analyzer 127505 < slow.cap ``` Canboat with a canable or NGT interface are a good way to start debugging NMEA networks, but if you want something more visual, see below. ### Professional / Expensive **Maretron** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Maretron-USB-100.jpg) One of the longest running solutions I’ve used is Maretron’s [USB-100 interface](https://www.maretron.com/products/usb100.php?ref=seabits.com) \+ [N2KAnalyzer](https://www.maretron.com/products/N2KAnalyzer.php?ref=seabits.com). It only runs on Windows, but it is very feature packed and useful when working on N2K networks. The software is free, but you have to purchase the USB-100 at $295 – but it’s worth it in my opinion. Not only is Maretron’s software easy to use and packed with features, but the USB-100 can be used as a PC navigation device as well. Also, if you have any Maretron devices at all, the USB-100 is almost a requirement for configuring and using them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/N2Kanalyzer-1.png) N2KAnalyzer is usually the first tool I start up to check on my network if I think there is an issue. The main screen is a nice compact list of all devices, software versions, instances, and bandwidth currently consumed on the N2K network by each one. It makes it very easy to see if something is missing or if something is going haywire and flooding the network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/N2Kanalyzer-device-details.png) You can get detailed screens on each device. This can help you troubleshoot power issues – reviewing the LEN (Load Equivalency Number) for each one can help determine if you are within the right power budgets. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/N2Kanalyzer-PGNs.png) One of the main reasons I use N2KAnalyzer is its display of both received and transmitted PGNs. Above is my Airmar WX220 and I can drill down into each PGN and see what data is currently being sent. Super useful to figure out where a problem might be. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/N2Kanalyzer-configure-menu-1.png) You can of course configure Maretron devices, as well as analyze PGNs and device properties. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/N2Kanalyzer-instancing.png) N2KAnalyzer also has a convenient Instancing Analysis feature which is very helpful. It runs for 30 seconds watching your network, and highlights any PGNs that are being transmitted wiht the same instance IDs, which is a no-no on NMEA 2000 networks. Here you can see two devices on my network are transmitting identical data with the same instance, and are highlighted in red. I now can go and configure correct instances to avoid any data corruption. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/N2Kanalyzer-set-instances.png) Changing instances is super easy in N2KAnalyzer, and can be done with a pop-up like above, or you can also just type into the Unique Instance column and set things all up and down the list very quickly. I use N2KAnalyzer a lot, primarily to set instances, check instance conflicts, and all the time to look at transmitted PGNs when I’m troubleshooting why something doesn’t show up at one place or another. **Actisense** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Actisense-NGT-USB.jpg) Another Windows-only choice is the [Actisense NGT-1-USB](https://www.actisense.com/product/nmea-2000-to-pc-interface-ngt-1/?ref=seabits.com) \+ [Actisense’s NMEAReader](https://www.actisense.com/product/nmea-reader-and-ebl-reader/?ref=seabits.com). You can use canboat with this as well, which I do often. But if you want a more graphical interface with lots more debug options, NMEAReader on Windows is a good option. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/NMEA-reader.png) NMEA Reader has a lot of the same functionality as N2KAnalyzer, but it has one particular screen that no other solution provides, and I use constantly. The screen above shows all of the transmitted PGNs in one place, all updating real time. You can see above that there are three “COG & SOG, Rapid Update” PGNs all being transmitted, but with unique sources. This could help me track down an instancing issue where multiple devices are sending the same data without unique IDs and confusing instruments that rely on the data. This is one of the only and best ways to see all of the data going back and forth on your NMEA 2000 bus in a single place, all updating real time, and the ability to quickly drill down into each set of data. If you’re missing data from a device, or have duplicate/bad data, this is the tool to use first. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/NMEA-reader-PGN-details.png) Clicking on a row shows the data for that particular PGN updating real time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/NMEA-reader-device.png) The tabs below allow you to cycle between the PGN details and the properties of the device sending it, which is very useful as well. You can change instances here, as well as see the overall power usage (Total Network LEN) for your NMEA 2000 network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/NMEA-reader-devices.png) NMEA reader has the device list as well, but I find N2KAnalyzers easier to use with more options. NMEA Reader is great at showing real-time traffic from your network in a very compact way and to help with instancing issues. ## Conclusion NMEA 2000 networks are sometimes fiddly and challenging to work with. They are not easily diagnosable when it comes to problems, and aren’t as easy to tap into as other networking we’re used to today. However, with a cheap investment such as half a NMEA 2000 cable, or a bit more on a computer interface, you should be able to track down the majority of common issues. ### What's on your boat server? URL: https://seabits.com/whats-on-your-boat-server/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T02:30:08.000Z Servers are more common on boats today than ever before. Having some sort of system to run SignalK, a dedicated alerting system, or some other service has become just as integral as having a chart plotter or VHF radio. Here are my servers, and what they run. ## Hardware Choosing server hardware is still a big decision – you have to factor in what you’ll be running, your power budget, and performance required. For the longest time, I used Raspberry Pi boards on my sailboats because of their power efficiencies. Before that, I used Soekris systems, hand built systems, and many other derivations back into the 1990s. Raspberry Pi was a great platform, but I found that the more things I wanted to do with my boat server, the more Pi’s I needed, as a single one was not capable of handling the load. In addition, I had multiple SD card failures both on the boat and on one of the 20+ other Pi’s I had running at home, at the family cabin, and elsewhere. While backups helped with those failures, it was irritating to have to deal with it to begin with. There are better SD cards now that seem to last longer, but nothing replaces an SSD or hard drive. I use Intel NUCs now for all of my boat servers, home servers, and elsewhere, and have even written about them before in [Using an Intel NUC as a powerful boat server](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/). They have proven to be reliable, quiet, and powerful and can be run off of DC battery power directly without an inverter in the mix. The article above goes into more of the details around why I think the NUC is a good boat server hardware-wise. ## Servers I have two servers on [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) – one Linux and one Windows. ## Linux The Linux system has the most services on it, but tends to operate at a pretty low utilization. It is running Ubuntu Linux 18.04 LTS which is my current favorite server operating system. Ubuntu is very popular, has lots of available packages, is easy to administer, and the LTS version is supported for a long time. This server is headless and runs in my Internet Alcove, connected to the main switch for the entire local network via Ethernet. This server is an [i3 Intel NUC](https://amzn.to/2rzfNNI?ref=seabits.com) with the following specs: - [NUC7i3BNK](https://amzn.to/2rzfNNI?ref=seabits.com) – i3, series 7 NUC base kit. This is the short model. It comes with 4x USB ports, WiFi, Ethernet, and much more. I use many of the USB ports for the various NMEA 2000 interfaces, and the Ethernet port to my local network. - [Samsung 960 EVO 250GB NVMe M.2 SSD](https://amzn.to/2R1ZpQn?ref=seabits.com) – I’ve found these SSDs to be some of the highest reviewed for performance and reliability. - 4GB RAM I chose the i3 for power and heat savings, given this computer is installed in a cabinet and runs 24×7\. This system is connected to my DC power system directly and does not require an AC inverter or wall wart. ### Linux Services **SignalK** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/SignalK-dashboard.png) SignalK is a critical component of any boat I have both for displaying dashboards using Instrument Panel, but also translating data from various things and ensuring it is on all networks where it is needed. On Rendezvous, I use several plugins within SignalK that are important: - [Convert SignalK to NMEA 0183](https://github.com/SignalK/signalk-to-nmea0183?ref=seabits.com) – this spins up a TCP port at 10110 on the server that I can point other devices to, and it spits out a NMEA 0183 stream of data from the NMEA 2000 network. I use this primarily for aisdispatcher (below) and it allows me to have a single endpoint to point devices at, but move around systems on my NMEA 2000 network depending on what I am testing. - [N2K AIS to NMEA 0183](https://github.com/sbender9/signalk-n2kais-to-nmea0183?ref=seabits.com) – required to convert AIS messages off of the NMEA 2000 network and send to the plugin above, and thereby to aisdispatcher. - [Victron Venus plugin](https://github.com/sbender9/signalk-venus-plugin?ref=seabits.com) – I use Victron for all of my DC and AC electrical system, and it is all networked together using Victron’s various busses. However, none of their hardware allows for full NMEA 2000 integration, so I use this plugin within SignalK which connects to my Color Control GX and pulls the data out using a TCP connection, and into SignalK. This allow for display of the data within SignalK, which is fine, but the plugin below is really what glues it together. - [Convert SignalK to NMEA 2000](https://github.com/SignalK/signalk-to-nmea2000?ref=seabits.com) – this allows me to take the data within SignalK, such as the Victron data above, and convert it into NMEA 2000 PGNs and place it on the network. In particular, I use this for battery status (PGNs 27506 & 127508) so that at various places around the boat, I can see how the electrical system is doing. - [Wilhelm SK](https://www.wilhelmsk.com/?ref=seabits.com) – this plugin allows you to use Scott Bender’s fantastic iOS app that visualizes all of SignalK’s data. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/SignalK-InstrumentPanel.png) SignalK Instrument Panel display, which is often shown on the salon PC screen **AIS dispatcher** I am a mobile base station for a bunch of different AIS aggregators including [Marine Traffic](https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/stations/1700?ref=seabits.com) and [AIShub](http://www.aishub.net/stations/2369?ref=seabits.com). I use [aisdispatcher](https://www.aishub.net/ais-dispatcher?ref=seabits.com) to connect to SignalK which has the [signalk-n2kais-to-nmea0183](https://github.com/sbender9/signalk-n2kais-to-nmea0183?ref=seabits.com#readme) plugin configured. This allows me to grab AIS data from anything that happens to be on the NMEA 2000 network rather than pointing it at a specific device like my Vesper XB-8000, Digital Yachts, etc. ``` ./aisdispatcher -t -h 192.168.3.10 -p 10110 -H marinetraffic.com, aishub.net -v -D60 ``` aisdispatcher filters out non AIS data, scopes it down a bit so I’m not sending tons of data out my LTE link, and sends it on to the aggregators. I’ve been running this for a long time on board, and I like being able to contribute so that others can see AIS targets on those maps. It has also been very fun to see the data being reported when I visit more remote areas and still have LTE coverage. **Plex** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Plex.png) My crew (and occasionally me!) like to relax in the evenings with a bit of TV. I have a significant Plex server at home with 10 terabytes of data and over 10,000 episodes of TV. I take a subset of this and replicate it to a 2TB hard drive that is attached to the local Plex server on Rendezvous. While on board, we use a Roku or Apple TV to run the Plex client. Sometimes crew members will use a tablet and can access the on board Plex server as well. This allows us to have various TV series on board without using up LTE or streaming data. Comes in handy for those rainy days at anchor when no one wants to go outside. **Zabbix** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Grace-Zabbix-group.png) For general network monitoring, graphs, and alerting, I have used [Zabbix](https://www.zabbix.com/?ref=seabits.com) for years, and it has proven to be reliable and scalable. I have a VPN back to my main Zabbix monitoring server, which connects in to the computer on the boat via a [Zabbix proxy](https://www.zabbix.com/documentation/3.4/manual/concepts/proxy?ref=seabits.com). The main server sends a list of what should be monitored, and the boat computer does the work, which is more efficient than monitoring things remotely. I monitor all of the bandwidth, ports, services, processes, and devices on the boat that are supposed to be on all the time. I can see used bandwidth, port statistics, network latency, and much more. It is extremely helpful when testing new devices, and I have found many issues through when monitoring goes crazy. The Zabbix agent is used to gather complete performance information on the server itself, and is helpful to see impacts of enabling more devices on the NMEA 2000 network, and what that does to SignalK, etc. **Docker + Venus-docker-grafana** Docker is a container technology which allows you to run an entire “system” of things easily without installing individual components. I am using Docker to run the [venus-docker-grafana](https://github.com/victronenergy/venus-docker-grafana?ref=seabits.com) compose file which runs a customized version of SignalK, InfluxDB, and Grafana. SignalK has been customized to work primarily with Venus GX-series devices, using the same plugins and configurations I listed above for my standalone SignalK server. It then uses another SignalK plugin to put the data into InfluxDB, and Grafana to visualize it in dashboards. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Venus-grafana.png) Grafana dashboard showing Venus data This is a great way to monitor the performance of your Victron system without using their remote VRM platform. I still use that, but this has no impact on my LTE/internet bandwidth, works while I am out of coverage, and keeps a copy of all of the data locally so I can look through it in more detail. **Mail / Postfix / Mailgun** This might seem sort of obvious, but having an email server on board that other devices can use is very important to ensure I am getting accurate notifications. I use Postfix as it is a well supported mail server. Combine that with Mailgun’s delivery service and an SSL connection, I can be sure that mail is always delivered from on board devices like Maretron’s N2Kserver on my Windows box, Blue Guard’s BG-Link gateway, and many others. Using Mailgun ensures it is delivered reliably, and not flagged as spam. Relying on a local SMTP server to deliver mail directly to various devices is not recommended in today’s DKIM/SPF/DMARC spam protected email world. Mailgun + Postfix + SASL and SSL help make this a reliable solution. **Monit & M/Monit** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/mmonit.png) I’ve used [monit](https://mmonit.com/monit/?ref=seabits.com) for years to manage and monitor linux systems, and I use it on Rendezvous linux system as well. It keeps an eye on all of the critical services, and will restart them if they fail, notify me via email when things can’t be restarted, and more. I also use M/Monit on a central server at home to see general status on a dashboard. I find it very useful to have this tool watching all of the critical services and restarting them even if I am not able to get into the system. **netdata** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/netdata.png) The final monitoring tool I use is [netdata](https://www.netdata.cloud/?ref=seabits.com), which is a lot more real-time and granular than Zabbix. When I am testing new products or network changes, this allows me to see the immediate impact on CPU, memory and other areas of the system. It is also an extremely useful tool for debugging general system performance and capacity. ## Windows The Windows system runs Windows 10 Pro, and yes that is not a server-class operating system, but most of the programs I need to run require a desktop operating system, so that’s what I ended up having to use. This system also is my primary navigation PC at the salon helm station while underway and runs a number of client programs. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Salon-planar-monitor.jpg) This system has a [22″ Planar touch-screen monitor](https://amzn.to/2rerLwt?ref=seabits.com) on an arm with the server attached to the back for easy servicing and connectivity. This system is an i7 NUC that is pre-built, which is unusual for me – I normally prefer to build my own from components. However, this one was so cost effective, and had high quality components and Windows 10 pre-loaded. Intel has some crazy part numbers for customer-facing systems, and this one is no exception – it is the [NUC8I7BEKQA](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/boards-kits/nuc/mini-pcs/nuc8i7bekqa.html?ref=seabits.com). It has the following hardware specs: - Series 8 NUC with an [i7-8559U CPU](https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/137979/intel-core-i7-8559u-processor-8m-cache-up-to-4-50-ghz.html?ref=seabits.com), which is one of the newest and fastest you can get in a NUC – up to 4.5GHz and 4 cores. - 512GB Intel 760p NVMe SSD – nice size for all of the fat charts and other marine programs. It’s also a higher end SSD speed wise – not the absolute top of the charts, but still more than enough for the boat. - USB + USB hub – this was pretty important given that there are a number of USB devices connected to this machine. - 16GB of DDR4-2400 RAM – I wanted a decent amount for Windows + TimeZero + Coastal Explorer + Maretron N2Kviewer - Video – it has both an HDMI 2.0a port and a USB-C port for video out. I plan on having a second screen using the USB-C port in the next few months. - WiFi / Ethernet – this is important in my setup as I have the WiFi connected to my local Pepwave router, and the Ethernet port connected to my Furuno-only network. This allows this PC to run TimeZero and use all of the Furuno hardware as well. ### Windows Services **TimeZero** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/timezero1.png) I use TimeZero as my primary lower helm station – it displays charts, cameras, and navigation data, controls my radar, runs courses through the [NavPilot 300 autopilot](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) and integrates with the Furuno network to fully sync the data. The Windows system uses an Ethernet connection directly to my private Furuno network which allows it to exchange data with the MFDs, access the AXIS camera server, and control the [DRS4D-NXT dopper radar](https://www.furunousa.com/en/products/drs4dnxt?ref=seabits.com). In addition, it uses the Actisense NGT-1-USB USB-to-NMEA 2000 interface to get navigational data off of the N2K network such as the PG-700 heading sensor, depth, speed, etc. **Coastal Explorer** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/coastal-explorer.png) I have used Coastal Explorer since the early days, and love it as a navigation and planning tool. The last year or so I have spent more time using TimeZero because of its integration with the rest of my systems, but I still use Coastal while at anchor to display nearby AIS targets and general position info as it tends to be a bit more power efficient. Coastal Explorer uses the [Nemo Gateway](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/) to get all navigation and network data, and can run my [NavPilot 300 autopilot](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) on a course if needed, although it is not anywhere near as integrated as the TimeZero solution. **Maretron N2Kviewer/server** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/2019-11-30_23-26-37.png) Maretron’s [N2Kview](https://www.maretron.com/products/N2KView.php?ref=seabits.com) is the primary server-like program I run on the Windows system. It connects to a Maretron [IPG-100 gateway](https://www.maretron.com/products/ipg100.php?ref=seabits.com) which allows access to all of the NMEA 2000 data, and has a ton of features. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Maretron-N2kview-menus.png) The entire program is touch based and has a number of pre-built screens showing data from the enviroment, DC/AC systems, engines, cameras, and a very feature-packed anchor system. I use it to monitor the engines and navigation data while underway, and the environment and anchor systems when at anchor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Maretron-N2Kview-alerts.png) It also has a very good alerting engine. Not only is is relatively easy to setup an alert, but you can have it flash a warning on the screen, sound an alarm or send an email / text. I also have an ALM100 alarm module that it can sound, waking even the deepest sleeper, and it automatically propagates the alarm to all of my DSM-series displays throughout the boat. Out of all of the things I run on this system, the alerts and monitoring are the most critical both while on board, and remote in case of something serious happening. **Maretron N2KAnalyzer** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/n2kanalyzer.png) This is one of the longest-running tools I’ve used to debug NMEA 2000 networks, and it only runs on Windows. I have a USB-100 Maretron USB-to-NMEA 2000 interface connected to the Windows machine, and use it constantly when testing new devices, setting unique and device instances, and analyzing PGNs being sent/received by the devices. **Actisense NMEAreader/Toolkit** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/Actisense-NMEA-reader.png) Similar to the above tool from Maretron, I have an Actisense NGT-1-USB interface (used also for TimeZero) that I use very often to monitor the NMEA 2000 network, configure devices, debug issues, and more. Most recently it was used to log large portions of bus traffic searching for a bug that only happened every few hours. In addition, I use the same NGT-1-USB interface and Actisense’s Toolkit to configure things like the [EMU-1 engine monitor](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/) and manage other Actisense updates and firmware. **Airmar Weathercaster** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/12/airmar-weathercaster.png) I have an Airmar WX-220 that I use as a primary GPS and weather source. At times while at anchor, I run Weathercaster to display the data real-time, although I can’t say the software is very reliable or optimized. However it can be interesting to see the data here, although Maretron’s N2Kview does something very similar. ## Wrap-up Most modern geek boaters have some sort of server on board. I think it is becoming more and more popular to rely on software to provide services on board like Plex, SignalK conversions, and the like. I’d love to hear from others in the comments on what services and programs you run on your server! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 2 comments bkcorwin@bkcorwin December 01, 2022 Old post, but I noticed that you have an IPG100 on your boat. Have you tried to connect a pi running signalk to the ethernet data from the ipg100? I cant seem to find any documentation that the ipg100 is supported but I’d like to add one if possible. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 December 05, 2022 I have not seen any support within Signal K for the IPG. I still use one for my Maretron N2Kview systems, but nothing beyond that. I can’t remember if I ever tried to do any packet dumps to figure out what the IPG was sending and if I could use it. ### One year after switching to power URL: https://seabits.com/one-year-after-switching-from-sail/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T16:09:13.000Z A bit over a year ago, I made the [decision to switch from a sailboat to a power boat](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/), and a few months after that, ended up selling [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) and purchasing [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/). In the full year since I’ve owned her, here’s how things have fallen out… ## The Stats I purchased Rendezvous at the beginning of November 2018, and [brought her back from Anacortes to Seattle single-handed (on a new boat!)](https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/) in not-so-good weather, with a quick stop in Port Ludlow for the night. I put around 220 hours on the engines this year, and around 170 hours on the generator. That is considerably more than I put on Grace the last two years I owned her, and I motored her at least 90% of the time. I started taking trips on Rendezvous only weeks after purchasing her, with several in the winter months including [Boat exploration, a shock and a fire](https://seabits.com/boat-exploration-a-shock-and-a-fire/) and [Poulsbo and Bainbridge snow adventure](https://seabits.com/poulsbo-and-bainbridge-snow-adventure/) plus a lot of far calmer multi-day trips. There was a [trip up to Friday Harbor](https://seabits.com/friday-harbor-round-trip/) early in the season, and then many day trips and overnight trips with friends, family and work folks. The big goal was a 30 day trip to and around Desolation Sound which happened in July and August, and was absolutely spectacular. I’m still working on the write up of the trip since it contained so much good stuff. Throughout the trips and use of Rendezvous, there were good and bad things, but overall, I feel like I was on the water far more this last year than I had been in the recent past. ## The Projects It wouldn’t be a boat if it didn’t have projects, and boy did I jump in head first right away. I knew I would have to do some work on the electronics, and the interior was something both me and my husband wanted to update. I had hoped to get a year out of the power system before I replaced large portions of it, but that didn’t happen. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/IMG_2498.jpg) Here is a list of the major projects completed this year: - [LiFePO4 house battery bank, new alternators, Victron inverter + system](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/) - New engine start and generator AGM batteries - [Peplink MAX transit LTE router](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/) - [weBoost LTE amplifier with Wilson antenna](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/) - [MikroTik Groove WiFi booster](https://seabits.com/tag/mikrotik/) - I[ntel NUC Linux system](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/) running [SignalK](https://seabits.com/tag/signalk/) - [NMEA 2000 network](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/) / [Ethernet network](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/) - [Yacht Devices temp/humidity sensors](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/) - Yacht Devices Gateway - [Actisense EMU-1 NMEA 2000](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/) engine monitor - Maretron DSM150 display - Digital Yachts AIT2500 AIS Class B+ transponder - [Rose Point Nemo gateway](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/) - Furuno TZT2 MFDs - Furuno DRS4D-NXT radar - Furuno RD-33 and FI-70 displays - [Furuno NavPilot 300 auto pilot](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) - AXIS camera server with docking and engine room cameras - [Furuno FM-4800 VHF radio](https://seabits.com/furuno-fm-4800/) - [New LED lighting everywhere](https://seabits.com/new-lighting-everywhere/) - [Ultrasonic diesel tank sensor](https://seabits.com/diesel-tank-monitoring-with-maretron-tl/) - [Radar & navigation light mount](https://seabits.com/seaview-more-than-mounts/) - LCJ Capteurs Ultrasonic wind sensor - Aqua Signal LED navigation lights - Fusion radio & speakers - [Rocna anchor](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/) - [Mantus chain hook and dbRopes bridle](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/) There were a lot of other smaller things, too numerous to list here. 2018/2019 has been a busy year, and 2020 doesn’t look any slower! ## The Good ### The Space ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/Rendezvous-salon.jpg) The sheer amount of space for **everything** is probably the biggest change and benefit. For a crew member, this means you don’t hit your head anywhere, you don’t feel like you have some horrible back disease every time you stand up on land, and generally a more rested and comfortable experience. This is huge, as it has meant my crew has been willing to go on longer trips, and they feel more rested, are happier, and end up loving the experience more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/Rendezvous-dinette.jpg) The dinette, which is my office & test space most of the time For my electronics and testing, it has been a revolution. I can have everything connected, all the time, and cycle through different manufacturers while testing something new. I have a whole cabinet dedicated to spare parts, extra devices, testing equipment, and boxes of stuff I am testing / have tested. I also completely eliminated an on-shore storage unit that I had full of stuff. About 20% of it I recycled or threw away, and the rest came aboard. Now I have everything I need in one place, and saved several hundred dollars a month on storage. ### The Speed Coming from the sailboat world where 6 knots was an average on good days, it still is a bit of a shock that 8 knots is easy, and 11 knots is my normal cruising speed. That isn’t that much faster, but as a boater I bet you have done the math, and it can make the difference between arriving at the next anchorage tired and ready to rest, to being ready to explore. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/Rendezvous-speed-SKR.jpg) Rendezvous headed north near Shilshole. Photo by Steven Roberts My typical longer journeys are from Seattle to the San Juan Islands, and this increase means I can get to Friday Harbor from Seattle in one day in about 6 hours. I would have never tried that in Grace, as it would be 12 hours at least, if tides were kind. ### The Comfort This is related to the space, but has more to do with the things in the boat. A full sized refrigerator/freezer, a dedicated ice machine (single most liked appliance by the crew for drinks!), walk around queen bed in the master, a sun deck where most people hang out and enjoy the sun, etc. etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/Rendezvous-master-suite.jpg) Generally speaking, I feel guilty with the level of comfort I have when I am driving, at anchor, sleeping, showering, and all of the other activities on board. I would never give up the memories I have with sailboats, and I think it makes me a more respectful boater in general, but man, the comfort level is not something I think I can ever give up! ## The So-So ### Docking I had a twin-engined boat years ago, and got really good docking it, but it did not have much windage. Rendezvous turns into a sailboat at times and can be a challenge to manage. I added a good wind sensor early on, and have a dedicated screen setup for docking on my Furuno TZT2’s that show apparent/true/ground wind, my speed, and a few other things to help with things. I also switched my slip so that north winds blow me up against the dock, which makes it much easier in the summer season to have the wind help me stay put. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/Port-Camera.png) I also added a camera that looks at the edge of the rub rail and the dock so I can see where I am in relation to the dock. From the flybridge I can see amazingly well everywhere except the edge of the boat on the sides. This camera solves that. The 1988 Volvo Penta engines tend to smoke more than modern engines (and even engines of that vintage) which I am working on, but can end up gassing the crew out if there is not much wind and I have to idle a lot. In addition, I am working with the timing and fuel lift pumps on the engines to try to reduce some hunting while at idle and in gear, which makes for bursty results. Nevertheless, I have not had any crashes or damage, and have docked her solo a handful of times without issue. I continue to get better every time I get more practice, and am not ready for a bow thruster yet! ### The Noise The noise-proofing in Ocean Alexanders were one of the features that drew me to the brand, along with the quieter Volvo Penta engines. You can still have conversations and you’re not left with a splitting headache at the end of the day. However, it is more noise in some places than the sailboat. All of my sailboats had the engine in the companionway coming down into the salon, and it was really quite loud near that area, which was typically the galley. I’d say they are pretty close in terms of overall effect, but there is definitely more at times with Rendezvous, especially at higher RPMs. ## The Challenges ### The Fuel Bill I knew it was going to be more expensive, and I did copious research on how much I was willing to spend and put up with in terms of fuel burn. At normal cruising speeds, Rendezvous burns a gallon a mile, which is right on par with what I expected. Slowing her to 8 knots reduces that to about 3/4 a gallon a mile, which is even better. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/IMG_3127.jpg) Maretron sensors showing available fuel Even so, at 220 hours of engine time, that is a lot more diesel than a sailboat! If we throw out 20 hours of that to idling or engine testing, oil changes, alternator testing, etc. we have around 200 hours. If we assume I went 11 knots all season (I definitely did not – most of the Desolation trip was much slower) then I should have been burning 11 gallons an hour, for a total of 2,200 gallons of fuel. At $3.50 a gallon, that would be over $7,700 in fuel. I’d say a more reasonable number would be 200 hours of total motoring and an average speed of 9 knots, which puts me at 1,800 gallons of fuel and closer to $6,300. However, I did get fuel from Brownsville Marina twice this year (large fill-ups) at $2.50 or some super low price. On the opposite end of the spectrum, I had to fuel while on Desolation at Gorge Harbor, and it came out to about $7 a gallon, and I took on almost 200 gallons! So this is definitely a big change. However, I was prepared for it, and I am OK with it. The best example of why I am OK with it is our Desolation trip – we were motoring for around 80 hours, and it was a 26 day trip. We motored at slower speeds since we were with another slower boat, but I’ll still do the calculations with the worst-case 1 gallon/mile formula using a 9 knot average speed: 80 hours \* 9 knots = 720 gallons $3.50 / gallon = $2,520 $2,520 / 26 days = $96 / day in fuel. Double that for food & drink and all of the other random things you need to do, and it’s still under $200/night for everyone aboard (2-3 people). You couldn’t find as nice of a hotel, especially in the places we went, for that money! I’m happy to pay more for the extra comfort, space, power, and everything else. You just have to be realistic going in, which I was. ### The Other Costs This is less to do with a power boat and more to do with the size and complexity. Because there is more space in a 46′ power boat than a sailboat, you can cram more things into tight spaces. With all of that extra stuff (generator, multiple battery banks) comes more complexity and more cost. Also because Rendezvous was built in 1988, and Grace in 2000, there are older methods and older things that need more maintenance to keep them going longer. Don’t get me wrong, Ocean Alexander has amazing build quality, and I would say in many areas, superior to Beneteau (Grace’s manufacturer) but as the old adage goes, it has more to do with **how** a boat was maintained, not **who** built it. Rendezvous was lovingly and meticulously cared for by the two previous owners, and it shows. Everything to take care of the larger and more complex boat is a factor higher, and while I expected it, I don’t have to like it ? ### Where are the sails? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/11/IMG_0524.jpg) The one thing I definitely miss is the quiet of the water lapping at the hull and the hum of the keel when the sails are trimmed just right, and you’re flying along with the wind powering you alone. ⛵️ ## Conclusion? I would not change my decision, and I do not regret it in any way. I love the change it has brought to my crew, our comfort, our range and ability to do more in worse weather, and our overall happiness. I love Rendezvous, and look forward to making many awesome memories in the future! ### Furuno FM-4800 VHF Radio URL: https://seabits.com/furuno-fm-4800/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:20:39.000Z Furuno released the FM-4800 VHF in late 2018, and since I was building out a new mostly-Furuno system on [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), I decided to add one to my flybridge. I’ve been using it now for the whole season, and have found it to be one of the best radios I have had in a long time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-display-scan-back.jpg) The FM-4800 is a Class D DSC VHF radio that also has a built in 72 channel GPS and a high quality AIS receiver. I use both of these – the GPS as a backup source to the other (many) GPS sources I have on board, and the AIS data is dumped onto the NMEA 2000 network and made available to the chart plotters, TimeZero on the PC, SignalK, and other devices. You can add a second station wired handset (HS-4800) and use it like an intercom between locations, add an external speaker (SP-4800) and it has loud hailer with listen back capability as well. You can delve into the full specs at [Furuno USA’s website](https://www.furunousa.com/en/products/fm4800?ref=seabits.com) or on [Furuno.com](https://www.furuno.com/en/products/radiotelephone/FM-4800?ref=seabits.com) (Furuno USA’s Japanese parent site). There is also a black-box version of this radio, the [FM-4850](https://www.furunousa.com/en/products/fm4850?ref=seabits.com), which uses the HS-4800 handset as the primary interface. You can have up to three handsets connected to the base unit. Furuno did a nice video overview of the radio on YouTube which was helpful to me before purchasing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-bailmount.jpg) The case itself is very well built, and matches the current line of Furuno products. It comes with a bail mount and hardware to flush mount as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-rear-cables.jpg) The back of the radio has a number of wires / connectors including: - VHF antenna - NMEA 2000 - DC power connectors - NMEA 0183 in/out - Ground connector - External speaker wires - Horn / loudhailer wires - Extension connector for wired HS-4800 handset / SP-4800 speaker I used the VHF antenna, NMEA 2000 and DC power connectors. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-mic-front-1.jpg) The microphone is a cool shape, and I really like how well machined and heavy it feels in the hand. In particular, I really like the nub on the back that slides into the retainer to hold the mic – that is some nice metal work there! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-mic-back-1.jpg) It can be a little difficult to get the mic out of the holder, and I have accidentally hit the transmit key a few times as a result. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-clicky-knobs-1.jpg) One of my favorite things about the radio is the robustness of the buttons and wheels. They’re big, so you aren’t searching around or bumping in to other dials, and they click and push very firmly and feel like they are well built. The other thing I **really** like is their size and function – the smaller one is only for volume and squelch. Twist it right away, and you’re adjusting volume. Press it in, and you’re adjusting squelch. Nothing else, no soft keys, just quick and easy. The right one is noticeably bigger, and you can twist it to change channels or choose menu items, and press it in to get to the main menu. It’s really nice to not have to look down at the radio to identify which soft key I’m pressing – you get used to the size of the buttons and know exactly what you’re doing by touch. I also really like the big back button that allows you to get out of wherever you happen to be. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-display-volume-1.jpg) The speaker volume is also a nice surprise – while at the dock or at anchor, I can never go higher than a 4 without it being too loud. Underway is usually a problem for most radios, especially with loud engines or music, but not for the FM-4800\. It has volume to spare – I usually have it at 10 while playing music and underway, and can hear very clearly. It goes even further up – I believe to 15 – which is super loud. It also has a very clear sound, where many other radios I’ve had have distorted at higher volumes, or just pass the treble through, making it painful or hard to hear details. ## Software / Menus ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-display-main-menu-1.jpg) The menus within the FM-4800 are easy to use, and organized in a pretty logical way. There are bunches of options for the various settings around DSC calls, beeps, screen contrast, and lots more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-display-scan.jpg) The scan behavior is very important to me on a radio. A few years ago, I had a B&G V50 radio with wireless handset [which I reviewed at the time](https://seabits.com/bg-v50-vhf-radio-h50-wireless-handset/), and really liked a lot of the features. I grew to hate it because of it’s weird scan behavior – while listening to a channel with active traffic, it would still flip through the other watched channels very briefly, causing a gap in the transmission I was listening to. Annoying. The scan behavior of the FM-4800 works for me very well. You can choose very quickly what you want from the menu above. I usually have a pre-programmed list of memory channels for the area I’m in. In my home area, that is channel 13 (ship-to-ship for the big stuff moving around in the bay/channels), 14 (vessel traffic services for Puget Sound), and one working channel – 68 or 69\. So I choose Memory Scan + 16 and off I go. This is probably the most used menu item that I click into every day. Other radios have similar setups, and they all work about the same – I find that this one is quick to start, although there is no dedicated “scan” button from the home menu – you have to hit the menu key, then choose Scan, then Memory Scan +16\. It would be great to have it on the main screen for quick access. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-display-port-setup.jpg) The radio has a lot of nice config options for how you want to handle data going in/out of the radio. You can turn on/off the GPS, DSC, and AIS separately, which is very granular. Several other radios I’ve used in the past have a less specific approach, so it is nice to see all of the options here. In general, I am not disappointed with any of the menus or configuration options. Everything that I wanted to tweak, turn on/off, or otherwise adjust had options to do so, and were pretty easy to find. ## Chart plotter integration ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-TZTL12F-TZTouch2-MFD-displaying-DSC-call-integration-1.jpg) There has been a long history of radios trying to work with chart plotters for DSC calls, many fraught with bugs, integration stumbling blocks, or weird setups. I’m happy to report that if you use a Furuno TZT2 series chart plotter, the FM-4800 will integrate without any additional configuration, provided you have them both on the same NMEA 2000 network. In the screen shot above, you can see that clicking on an AIS target has a new menu item right at the top of the list – DSC Call. Clicking this immediately sends the info to the radio, where you can hit OK and initiate a call. I like that there is a pause so you can fumble around for the mic and get ready to stay something meaningful. I actually haven’t tested someone making a DSC call to me with the chart plotter on. I know the radio works fine for incoming DSC calls, but I don’t think there is any integration where the chart plotter does anything with an inbound call. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-MOB-distress-screen.jpg) If you hit Man Overboard on the TZT2, you’ll also get an automatic distress message on the FM-4800\. The message pops up immediately on the radio, and includes the nature of the distress (MOB – man overboard), lat/long, time, and a prompt for you to hold the menu button for 4 seconds to activate this DSC alert. At that point, it would be transmitted out as a legitimate DSC distress call, and answered by the various authorities, if you’re in range, and set off all other nearby DSC radios. ## General Use This radio is installed in my flybridge next to two Furuno TZT2 MFDs, a NavPilot 300, FI-70, and a few other instruments. This is my primary driving location, and as such, I use the radio at this location most of the time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/DSC03162-Edit.jpg) With the FM-4800, I have been able to hear everything I needed, adjust things quickly with the big knobs, and generally not think about it or be frustrated by it. Crew have used it extensively while helming and have been able to use it easily, and hear things very well. I can’t understate that last point – crew usually have difficulties hearing any VHF radio I’ve used in the past, mainly because they’re just not as used to how quickly people speak, or some of their terms. This radio has really high quality audio, and it can get very loud without distortion. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Furuno-FM-4800-VHF-display-RX-symbol.jpg) The GPS lock on speed for this radio is amazing. Even without being connected to NMEA 2000, it can go from cold to having a GPS signal in less than 30 seconds. With it connected to NMEA 2000 it is even faster, as I assume it augments its startup process with existing GPS data on the network. ## Wrap Up Overall, I am very pleased with this radio. I’ve used it for around 9 months now throughout the majority of my boating season. It has been in use in very busy areas (Seattle) and longer distances (Desolation Sound) and I have not had any major issues. People can hear me well, I can hear them too, and I can control and configure the radio quickly without too much fuss. If you have Furuno TZT2 chart plotters, this is a great addition to have. Even if you don’t, the robustness of the speaker, quick GPS time, and AIS receiver are all great things to have in a new radio. ## Favorite Features - Clicky, easily identifiable buttons - Amazingly loud speaker - GPS startup time - DSC integration with Furuno TZT2 MFDs ## Room for Improvement - Tightness of mic mount - Quicker access to Scan menu --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. disqus\_oJTSIquwGx [January 4, 2020 at 8:48 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-fm-4800/#comment-195) Hello, Great article, thanks. We are just installing our Furuno FM 4800 VHF and are not getting any power. We were hoping to test before soldering. Did you have to solder first to get power? Thank you. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 4, 2020 at 10:25 am](https://seabits.com/furuno-fm-4800/#comment-200) I’m not sure what you are soldering? The VHF connection or the power leads? I used crimp style connectors for the power leads and was able to test it easily. Wallace Grommet [October 3, 2020 at 11:57 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-fm-4800/#comment-48) Just a general question. How much range should we expect from a marine vhf radio??? Are some channels/frequency bands better at distance transmissions? Since installing a new sailboat masthead antenna 5 years ago I have lacked the ways and means to conduct a thorough field test, until now. Anchored out in Padilla bay for a few days near Cap Sante marina, I realized that a fellow boater had relocated recently to Blaine, so I called him up, and hashed out a plan for a radio check. I would transmit starting on channel one, and repeat the process ascending the channels. The distance between our stations is 34.2 miles, with significant topography obstacles so I didn’t have high hopes at all. Surprise! Good reception was achieved on channel one, but on successive transmissions on higher channels the signal became weaker and noisy. Now I am faced with summarizing the results and deriving some rules of thumb etc. for effective vhf radio operation at long distances. ilham [February 22, 2021 at 11:40 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-fm-4800/#comment-1772) Thanks for the helpful video, I purchased the FM-4800, I try to connect with Furuno radar 1945 series with NMEA 0183, and then radar 1945 can’t show up target AIS so what can I do about this situation? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 24, 2021 at 8:57 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-fm-4800/#comment-1847) I might try contacting Furuno Support. They are quite helpful and might know more about your particular setup. You can also try the Furuno Forums at [http://www.furunousaforum.com/](http://www.furunousaforum.com/?ref=seabits.com) ### Low Data Mode helps boat WiFi use in iOS 13 URL: https://seabits.com/low-data-mode-helps-boat-wifi-use-in-ios-13/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:14:02.000Z As of iOS 13, there is a Low Data mode for WiFi! For many years, you’ve been able to limit cellular bandwidth usage, but iOS has not had a way to control the same thing for a WiFi network, until now. iOS is one of the worst offenders with its WiFi usage. In particular, app updates and Photos backup/sync kill LTE-backed on board WiFi connections. I’ve had it happen many times myself after being out in the dinghy or on land taking photos, and arriving back to the boat WiFi, only to have it slow to a crawl while photos are uploaded. Low Data Mode works right now with all of Apple’s built in apps. App updates and auto downloads of things like music and podcasts are suspended, lower bitrates are used for FaceTime, and music streams at lower quality. Background app refresh is also disabled. However, just like Android, other app developers need to adopt this new feature to ensure their apps aren’t doing larger downloads, even in the foreground. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/iOS-13-WiFi-properties.png) To get to it, click on the “i” next to the WiFi network you want to enable Low Data mode on. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/iOS-13-Low-Data-mode-WiFi.png) Then toggle the “Low Data Mode” slider to the right. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/iOS-13-Low-Data-mode-download-app-warning.png) Not only will iOS use less data on the WiFi network, but it will also prompt you if you decide to do something that will incur larger data usage, such as downloading an app, like above. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/12/iOS-13-Low-Data-mode-pause-photos-upload-1024x686.png) Photos also honors Low Data Mode and will show a notice when there are photos to upload (if you’re using iCloud to sync/backup/store them) which you can override by clicking the blue “Resume” link. I’ve set this setting on my iPhone, and since I use iCloud sync, it automatically was set for my iPad as well. Hopefully this will help curtail dramatic WiFi use on board, whether that be an LTE backed connection, or just a slow, shared marina WiFi setup. Maybe sometime soon Apple will release a similar feature for Mac OSX. I’ve added this info to my other more inclusive article on [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/). --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 2 comments Ian Magnone@imagnone August 11, 2023 I use TripMode for controlling macOS data usage by network. It works really well. [‎TripMode on the Mac App Store](https://apps.apple.com/us/app/tripmode/id1513400665?mt=12&ref=seabits.com) Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 August 11, 2023 Great suggestion My bigger article on working remotely talks about TripMode, and I’ve used it for a long time. One of the best ways to control usage on MacOS. I wish they would add a native option though! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/8e2fdababc75e6d3c6d0d477f46b2807e5a82d60.png) [SeaBits – 2 Jun 19](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/ "06:42PM - 02 June 2019") ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2026/03/1b3cba80351563e01aba271095bdc0fb9a674b08.png) ### [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/) Managing your internet data usage on the boat is important both for a quality experience, and because of limited WiFi and cellular networks. ### weBoost Drive Reach cellular amplifier installation and testing URL: https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:22:14.000Z weBoost released the [Drive Reach](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PDVTMM6?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) recently which is a more powerful and refined version of the venerable [Drive 4G-X](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N705CF3?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com), the gold standard for cellular amplifiers since 2014\. I have been using mine for a few months, and have some observations. The Drive Reach is a cell phone signal booster with three major components – an outdoor antenna, amplifier and inside antenna. It is designed for use primarily in vehicles, and includes a 12v cigarette adapter style power cable and power supply. Cell amplifiers are designed to help improve the signal strength in areas where it is below a specific threshold – they’re not designed to improve signal or throughput in good quality signal areas. They do this by using an outdoor antenna that has a better chance of picking up the remote signal, that are usually much larger than antennas on phones or other devices, and sending that signal to the amplifier. The amplifier then increases the signal within various FCC limits, and re-broadcasts that signal on the inside antenna. Devices close to the inside antenna should either have a usable signal in the worst case, or perform much better if their signal initially was low. There are a number of brands to choose from on the market, but the leader for some time in terms of performance on US LTE bands has been the weBoost Drive 4G-X. ## Do you need an amplifier? One thing you should carefully consider is whether you actually need an amplifier. Many people assume that adding one would only be good, and help improve overall signal and performance, but this is often not the case. Amplifiers are a perfect solution for devices without external antennas such as smartphones and tablets, especially in a car/truck with lots of metal around, and where signal is in the mid-range. Boats are usually a different situation, both because of their construction, location, and the devices used. For devices such as a Peplink LTE router with existing external antennas, an amplifier may actually cause performance to be worse. A directly connected outdoor antenna like the [Wilson 4G marine](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZURS1?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) can offer much better performance. I personally use an amplifier **only** when I am on longer trips to known areas where I will be far away from any towers, cities, and the like. The rest of the time, I use the same Wilson 4G marine antenna without the amplifier, directly connected to the primary cellular antenna port of my Peplink LTE router. While I am at my home marina, I have it setup this way all the time, as adding the amplifier severely restricts the overall performance since I am close to a major metro area with dense cellular towers. When considering whether you need an amplifier, look at where you will be boating, how close you will be to towns and population areas where there might be towers, and the terrain around you. If you are unsure as to whether an amplifier will be required, start with a good quality outdoor antenna, and add an amplifier where needed. ## weBoost Drive Reach vs Drive 4G-X The biggest difference between the Drive Reach and 4G-X is power. Both uplink and downlink power have been increased in the Reach, which means that you should be able to pick up more distant signals, and broadcast them at a higher power inside. Powerful Signal have done a [fantastic detailed comparison between the Reach and 4G-X available here](https://powerfulsignal.com/support/product-comparisons/what-are-the-differences-between-the-weboost-drive-4g-x-and-weboost-drive-reach/?ref=seabits.com). Scroll down to the “Uplink and downlink power” section for a detailed analysis of bands and uplink vs downlink. I’ve summarized below: Uplink power is in reference to how much power the amplifier has with the outside antenna to connect to a remote cell tower. From Powerful Signal: > The Drive Reach has over three times the uplink power of the Drive 4G‑X (753 mW ÷ 242 mW = 3.12). That means the Drive Reach can connect to towers that are much farther away than those the lower-powered Drive 4G‑X can reach. > \-Powerful Signal Downlink power measures how much power can be used on the internal antenna for devices that are taking advantage of the amplifier. Again, from Powerful Signal: > The Drive Reach has nearly twice the downlink power of the Drive 4G‑X (3.24 mW ÷ 1.78 mW = 1.82). That means the Drive Reach can connect to more phones in your vehicle at a greater distance from the inside antenna. > \-Powerful Signal Overall, the Drive should be able to grab more distant remote signals and broadcast them with more power inside. ## In the box ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-wide.jpg) Everything you get with the weBoost Drive Reach package I bought the [weBoost Drive Reach kit that is meant for a car/truck/RV](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PDVTMM6?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com). There is not a package (yet) that includes the [Wilson 4G marine antenna](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZURS1?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) that I recommend, but that’s OK – I already had one. In the package, you get the amplifier, internal and external antennas, power cable, mounting bracket, velcro for other mounting options, screws, and various documentation. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-amp.jpg) weBoost Drive Reach amplifier The amplifier itself is really well made and is quite a bit heavier than the 4G-X – in fact, the Reach is 1.8lbs and the 4G-X is only .75lbs. It has deep red aluminum heat sink fins, an LED light, and plastic grips on the side that allow it to snap into the mounting bracket easily. The glue that weBoost uses for their stickers also is really well made – so much so I couldn’t get it off easily! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-inside-antenna-power.jpg) One end of the amplifier has the inside antenna and power connector. Both of these are new/different than the previous weBoost 4G-X – the connector for the antenna is different, and the power supply is more powerful, and has more features. More on that below… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-outside-antenna.jpg) On the other end is the connector for the outside antenna – again, this has changed from the previous models. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-quarter.jpg) The amplifier itself is quite a bit taller than the 4G-X which can mostly be attributed to the aluminum heat sink fins. I think it looks far cooler with these, but their real purpose is to dissipate the heat during operation. This is one considerable difference over the 4G-X – the Reach gets quite hot, so ensure it has adequate ventilation. This picture also gives you a better view of the plastic release tabs that hold it into the mounting bracket. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-reach-mounting.jpg) Mounting plate removed from the back of the amp The mounting bracket is a lot better on the Drive. Not only does it have velcro strips already applied to the back, but the plastic clips are far easier to use to remove the amplifier. The 4G-X had a bracket that was really hard to work with, especially if you wanted to get the amp out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-drive-reach-connector.jpg) Programming or diagnostics connector? There is a covered connector on one end of the Drive as well – removing the cover shows a PCB with contact points on both sides, perhaps for a programming or diagnostics interface? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-inside-antenna.jpg) Inside antenna The outside antenna is one of the standard magnetic stubby antennas meant for a car/truck, which I won’t be using. However, the inside antenna is a nice change from the previous one, which I hated. This one is the flat panel antenna that I [usually recommended people replace the standing desk one from the 4G-X](https://amzn.to/34UvKgC?ref=seabits.com). I used the provided double sided sticky tape to mount it within about 3″ of my Peplink MAX Transit router antennas (see [Rendezvous internet setup](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup/) for more details on my full solution). This antenna has outperformed the standard one provided with the 4G-X for almost all conditions I tested it in. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-power-supply.jpg) New power supply without any markings The power supply has also been updated with more power, a bigger brick, and a light and USB port on the 12V plug. Unfortunately it is still a barrel-type connector with no locking mechanism, and can work its way out due to vibration. The specs say this outputs 5V at a maximum of 4.5 amps, while the 4G-X was 6V at 2.5 amps. Even with the slight voltage difference, the Reach clearly uses more power, which is expected since it is a more powerful amplifier. The really strange thing is the lack of any details at all on the power supply. Usually there will be info on the acceptable voltage ranges, input and output power, various numbers for government agencies, and more. This has absolutely nothing on it, which is really unusual. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-power-supply-detail.jpg) For those using this in a car, the 12V socket comes with a USB port that can charge a phone, and an indicator light. Because I was installing this permanently, I cut off the 12V plug and added two ring terminals to the wires so I could connect it to a fused circuit in my DC power system. ## **weBoost Drive Reach vs 4G-X size** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-vs-Drive-4-GX.jpg) Size comparison of the weBoost Drive Reach vs 4G-X The Reach is pretty similar in terms of footprint compared to the 4G-X. In fact, it is a little bit smaller top to bottom. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-vs-Drive-4G-X-height.jpg) The height is where you’ll see the biggest difference. The fins on the Drive are quite a bit higher than the 4G-X. ## **Antenna Connector Changeup** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-antenna-cable-connector.jpg) SMB connector Both the inside and outside antenna connectors on the Drive Reach are completely different than previous models, using newer SMB connectors. I am not a fan of these connectors so far given how easy it is to unplug them. I think they should have stuck with the older SMA connectors which screw on, and have very little likelihood of falling off. However, I don’t know if there is a technical reason that this new connector is better – signal strength? Less cable loss? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-inside-antenna-closeup.jpg) The included inside antenna will work just fine with this connector, of course. But if you have an external LTE antenna already, or want to use the [Wilson 4G marine antenna I recommend](https://amzn.to/355EKzQ?ref=seabits.com), you’ll need an adapter. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Wilson-970019-cable-adapter.jpg) SMB to SMA adapter 970019 I have only found this adapter at [Wilson as part number 970019](https://www.weboost.com/products/sma-female-to-smb-plug-adaptor?ref=seabits.com). There are some on Amazon as of the time of this writing, but they don’t look quite the same. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Wilson-970019-adapter-new-end.jpg) Both ends of the SMA-SMB adapter shown above ## **Performance** After 4 months of use, including a long trip into Desolation Sound and surrounding areas, where LTE signals are much harder to come by, I can say unequivocally that the weBoost Drive Reach is a marked improvement on the 4G-X and highly recommend it. In addition, the Drive has support for band 25 which may help with newer phones/devices. Right now, band 25 is primarily used by Sprint, but with their merger with T-Mobile, anything is possible. To understand what bands different providers use, see this [Cheat Sheet](https://www.phonearena.com/news/Cheat-sheet-which-4G-LTE-bands-do-AT-T-Verizon-T-Mobile-and-Sprint-use-in-the-USA%5Fid77933?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Verizon-without-weboost.png) Verizon signal without weBoost Reach ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/Verizon-with-weboost.png) Verizon signal with weBoost Reach amplification Above you can see a comparison of the signal details from my Peplink MAX Transit LTE router with the weBoost Drive Reach amplified signal on the top, and the unamplified signal on the bottom. This test was done where the entire amplifier and external antenna setup was turned off for the right hand test, leaving the Peplink MAX Transit to fend for itself with its standard stock antennas. I’ve done tons of this type of test, both with Verizon and T-Mobile, and in varying conditions. Overall, I can generally say that the amplifier is worth having in situations where you know towers will be far away and signal will be hard to get. Trips up into British Columbia for me will always include an amplifier, but while I am in the Salish Sea / Puget Sound nearer Seattle and the more populated area, I turn the amplifier off and directly connect my outside antenna to the Peplink. If you need an amplifier because you will be away from major population areas or have areas of moderate to poor signal you need to boost, the weBoost Drive Reach will definitely help, and is a great upgrade from the Drive 4G-X. If you already have a Drive 4G-X and it works well for you, it is not likely worth the cost to upgrade. ## **Conclusions** ### **What I Like** - Performance / power – the improvements in power definitely help when you’re dealing with a poor signal. - Mounting bracket – much better system for mounting. ### **What I Don’t Like** - Heat – this thing gets super hot! - Connectors – the newer SMB connectors unplug very easily. I preferred the screw on SMA version. > You can help support SeaBits by using the links in my articles if you buy any of the products. I am part of the Amazon Affiliate program, and receive a small commission if you buy through my links. Thanks for your help in supporting the site and work involved! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. MrSteve007 [January 4, 2020 at 9:36 pm](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-196) Excess electronics heat always means power consumption. What’s the real-world standby and in-use power draw of this setup? Especially considering that the power-supply appears to have no printed specs. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 4, 2020 at 7:40 am](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-202) Good question. I didn’t end up testing how much it consumed since it was integrated into a rather large panel of internet stuff. Doing some basic math though, in the worst case scenario: 5V \* 4.5 amps = 22.5 watts Assume 90% conversion efficiency – 22.5 watts / 90% = 25 watts So at 12V DC, that would be 25 watts / 12 V = 2.08 amps That assumes it is using the entire capacity of the power supply, and that there is a 90% conversion efficiency which could be high. I would hope it wouldn’t be running the power supply flat out all the time. 2 amps for the amplifier itself seems like a lot, but I suppose that’s the price to pay for grabbing a really remote signal. Also, my math skills are about as good as my carpentry skills, YMMV. Kevin McLaughlin [June 5, 2020 at 11:28 pm](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-124) Steve, great write-up. I just took delivery of my Reach, and want to hardwire it. I called Wilson Electronics about a direct wire kit, and the rep said cutting off the cigarette lighter style plug will not work, and that I need to purchase the Direct wire assembly. How have you managed so far with your modified power cord? [MeHi](http://roadtrip.love/?ref=seabits.com) [September 27, 2020 at 1:09 pm](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-59) CONNECTION CAUTION: Once you connect the antennas ‘Don’t try to remove them once on’. The elbow center pin broke on both sides of my booster’s motherboard when I disconnected connect and reconnected the SMB plugs with new cables. Inside the booster, SMB housing sleeves are friction held in place by the stiff silicone/rubber casing because there is no way solder will adhere to the type metal of sleeve housing they used to connect to the motherboard. I’m my option, It’s a design flaw or a engineering miss calculation to use SMB connectors. The fix. I was able to solder a center pin to the broken pin, after I grinned drown the square metal housing used to extend (elbow) the SMB sleeve connector. I ran the cable out of the box 6″ and made new SMA connections so I can swap out cables easier. After putting it back together, I’m back to seeing a constant green light on the unit and it’s working again. It’s a good unit, expensive for what’s its worth. I did this DIY repair because I lost my warrantee information, I’m cheap and WeBoost have not responded to my emails. I wanted to share this with you Steve and your readers, so you don’t break your weBoosts as I did. [Patrick](http://www.svviolethour.com/?ref=seabits.com) [March 4, 2021 at 1:34 pm](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-2169) Just noticed a slight mixup in your captions – under Performance you have the first table captioned “Verizon signal without weBoost Reach” and the second as “with weBoost Reach”, but it should be the reverse (as becomes clear in the text paragraph after those). At first I was confused as to why the RSSP was better in the first table. This article has been very helpful in the Drive Reach install I’m working on now! (they sent my booster without a mounting bracket though – argh – apparently there are different variants and no consistency in the “marine” kits). - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 4, 2021 at 2:26 pm](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-2170) Thanks! I switched those – that was my mix up! From what I have heard, they have stopped shipping mounting brackets and they no longer “recommend” using the 12v cigarette adapter for power and require a dedicated 12v power brick too that can be priced higher. Lots of folks have also had issues with the connectors vibrating out, so keep that in mind in the install. - Eric Loewenthal [March 8, 2021 at 11:26 am](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-2331) Heard it from me 🙂 I just ordered one a few weeks ago. Then had to order the mounting base separately. The wilson sma-smb connector was terrible so i found this one and it is a much much better connection and cheaper! DHT Electronics RF coaxial Coax Adapter Connector SMA Female to SMB Female [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CVR4NN0/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_glt\_fabc\_4T31MDT643XAMD04TMNA?\_encoding=UTF8&psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CVR4NN0/ref=cm%5Fsw%5Fr%5Fcp%5Fapi%5Fglt%5Ffabc%5F4T31MDT643XAMD04TMNA?%5Fencoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) I ordered the hardwired power brick and was disappointed to find out that it was just a splice of the 12V plug wire. Literally just strip the black insulator. Twist the outside wire and heat shrink it for the negative wire. Use the white wire as positive. Add a heat shrink at the base of the splice to cover where you removed the insulator. You can see how it should look in the hardwire power product pictures. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 8, 2021 at 7:53 pm](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-2344) Thanks for the updates! I have heard from multiple people on the mounting bracket and power supply unfortunately, so it is good to know it is not worth ordering the separate one, and to also have an alternative on the connector. Ian Crosby [March 30, 2021 at 8:07 pm](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-3229) So I am in the process of installing one of these in my Nordic Tug 37\. I followed your recommendation and used a Poynting Omni-400 as my outside antenna, mounted on the forward port corner of my pilothouse, and about five feet horizontally from the Weboost unit in the overhead electronics bay inside the pilot house. The thing is there is nowhere within the reach of the supplied cable that I can locate the indoor antenna without getting an oscillation shutdown. Any suggestions? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 29, 2021 at 9:57 pm](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-3657) Sorry for the delay in replying – the comment system flagged your comment as spam for some reason! Are you trying to use the system in a place where there is good signal? It can shut down or show similar or identical lights if the towers are too strong nearby. Ian Crosby [July 29, 2021 at 10:06 pm](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-3661) My slip where I have been trying to set it up has good cell coverage so maybe that’s the problem. Do I need to be some place that is lacking or marginal to place the interior antenna somewhere it won’t get into a feedback loop in the conditions when I am likely to use it? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 30, 2021 at 9:12 am](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-3662) If you’re just getting a red light, then it is almost always from the internal antenna being too close to the external one. Most of the kits come with a pretty decently long cable on the internal one – you might try just temporarily holding it as far from the external antenna area as possible and see if you get rid of the red light. You could even buy an extension cable and get it really far away. If it still stays red, it \*could be\* that the local signal is interfering, but that should show a different light pattern (blinking green & red). - Ian Crosby [July 30, 2021 at 9:41 am](https://seabits.com/weboost-drive-reach-cellular-amplifier-installation-and-testing/#comment-3663) Ah, I was trying to place it so as to avoid either condition. Thanks for the clarification. ### Victron + Wakespeed + Battle Born power system URL: https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/ Last updated: 2026-04-01T16:18:47.000Z [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) came with a decent power system which I had hoped to use for a year before upgrading. However, performance and other problems cropped up in the first few months of using it, so I moved this project earlier in the list and jumped in. ⚠️ Updated March 2026: ****I no longer recommend Battle Born Batteries**. In fact, if you have these batteries on your boat, I highly recommend you ****remove them from service immediately.** For more detailed testing, please see [Will Prowse's videos](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7bvIB2TPsCgD4TxUxf3szWyxRz%5FHwUd1&ref=seabits.com) \- he's published 7 of them that show a multitude of serious problems that the manufacturer is ignoring. Battle Born also posted a Technical Note defending why their batteries are designed this way, but it looks like a justification for a bad design. You can [read it here](https://battlebornbatteries.com/technical-note-on-the-safety-and-design-of-the-battle-born-100ah-positive-terminal/?ref=seabits.com). ## Original System ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Original-battery-bank.jpg) Original 840 amp hour house bank using 6x 6v GC2 flooded batteries The original system was pretty standard, and worked OK, except for overall capacity and charging issues. Here’s an overview of the system itself. ### Components **Batteries** - House battery bank – 6x 6 volt GC2 style flooded batteries – 280 amp hours each, for a total of 840 amp hours (only 420 usable at 50% DOD) - Start batteries – 2x 8D flooded batteries – one for each engine - Generator battery – 4D flooded battery ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Magnum-inverter.jpg) Original Magnum 2800W inverter **Charging / Inverting** - Magnum 2800W inverter/charger – both at the dock via shore power and underway via the 8Kw Onan generator - Magnum battery combiner - ProMariner 3 bank AC charger – charges generator and start batteries - 70 amp “newer” alternator and 40 amp original alternator (more than 20 years old) charging start banks - Battery combiner switch at DC panel ### Challenges - **Overall capacity** – while 420 usable amp hours is quite a bit, the amount of electrical stuff on the boat, even before I added electronics, meant that you needed to charge at least twice a day while at anchor. - **Charging is slow** – normal with flooded batteries – the last 10% always takes forever, and the charge sources with this system are very small or inefficient. - **No charge control between house + start batteries** – only a combiner switch – this meant remembering to combine the batteries when charging, and hopefully remembering to disconnect them when at anchor, or you deplete the starting batteries (which happened several times). There was also more than 40′ of cable between the house and start bank by the time it went from the battery banks, to the combiner switch, and back. Voltage drop anyone? - **Bad AC charger –** ProMariner AC charger – excellent at cooking batteries! – this thing was a nightmare piece of equipment, and after I put voltage monitoring in place, routinely pumped 16-18v into my start and generator batteries. Plus, there was a Magnum battery combiner ALSO in the mix that would routinely connect the banks together. Both of these needed to be simplified. - **Large start batteries** – 8D batteries to start each engine, and a 4D battery for the generator. These were huge, took up a lot of space, and could be optimized with newer technologies. They also routinely had issues due to the bad charger and cross connection while charging the house bank. ## New System Design Like the other systems I’ve installed on previous boats and for other people, including the [LiFePO4 system on Grace](https://seabits.com/correcting-the-list-lifepo4-power-system-design/), I wanted a Lithium-based system with more overall amp hours, higher charging rates, but with a simpler design. ### Goals - Higher overall amp hour capacity - Faster charging rates both underway and at the dock - Local and remote monitoring of all parts of the system - Simplification vs. other LiFePO4 systems I had installed before - Redundancy / separation between house, start and generator banks ### AC & DC System ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/IMG_2850.jpg) For the heart of my system, I chose a [Victron MultiPlus 3000W inverter](https://amzn.to/2M630sO?ref=seabits.com), combined with a [BMV-712 battery monitor](https://amzn.to/309nCJR?ref=seabits.com) and [Color Control GX display](https://amzn.to/30GMWD0?ref=seabits.com). I’ve used these before in many designs, and love the feature set provided by the combo, and the visibility provided by the Color Control GX. One big change to the system was to run my shore and generator power connections directly to the inverter, rather than having it hang off of a circuit on the AC panel. This provided the following benefits: - Central control for all inbound AC power - Victron Power Assist feature (seen below) which would help during high AC use periods while connected to shore power - Simplified operation and control - Simplified grounds/neutrals ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/IMG_3031.jpg) Victron inverter in assist mode, augmenting my 30 amp shore power with battery capacity Rendezvous only has a single, 30 amp, 120VAC shore power connection. I considered rewiring things to 50 amp, 240VAC, but that is a project for another time. Instead, having the MultiPlus in-line for all incoming shore power allows me to use the Power Assist feature when I am at the dock and exceed the 30 amp shore power limit. Particularly in the winter when we might have an AC oil heater running while also on board using the microwave, stove, or the hot water heater, it will allow for bursts over that limit without any interaction. While out away from the dock, the generator provides up to 50 amps of AC power which we never have exceeded. I also added a cut out switch that allows me to bypass the entire inverter in the event of a catastrophic failure of the device. ### Alternators charging house only I made an intentional design choice that seems less common on most boats I’ve worked on, but has proven to be very effective & simpler to understand. I chose to have both engine alternators charge the house bank directly, and nothing else. Using a split system with one alternator charging the house bank, and one charging the start batteries seemed like a waste of an alternator. The one dedicated to the start bank isn’t going to do much work since it shouldn’t take much power to start the engines normally, and it would only work for a short period, while the house alternator would be busy all the time. Having both of the alternators charge the start batteries, and using an automatic charge relay, combiner technology, or something else was a more traditional option, but I have always disliked having to sacrifice something for that type of setup. In many cases, you have to choose a charging profile that matches both banks, or risk over/under charging one bank or another. There’s also issues with higher amperage charging when configured in either of these ways, as the connections between banks turns into a bottleneck. There are several challenges with this design. First, you need to ensure that you have a way to protect the alternators in the event that the house bank BMS’es shut things off because of overcharging or other reasons. Not having that safety valve can result in your alternator being damaged when that happens. Second, to get the most out of the system with two alternators charging one battery bank, you need regulators on each alternator that can work together to ensure they are not fighting each other. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Balmar-XT-170-alternator.jpg) Balmar XT-170 dual foot alternator Given how my Volvo Penta engines were made, there is not a ton of room for a bigger alternator without major metal work. The biggest dual foot alternator I could fit was the Balmar XT-170 series. They are capable of 170 amps, but I have them de-rated to 125 amps and have seen absolutely no heat issues. The XT series have only been out a year or so, and seem very well made. I’m not a fan at all of the plug in connector you see at the top of the photo – I would much rather have terminals or bolts or something similar that cannot be damaged. The length of wire provided with that terminal is comically short. Other than that, the alternators have performed extremely well the last 5 months in very hot conditions with little belt wear and very good performance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/IMG_4100.jpg) Wakespeed WS-500 regulator plus two Sterling Alternator Protection devices To protect the alternators, I used Sterling Power’s Alternator Protection Device on each alternator, ensuring that if there is some sort of spike or cutoff to the battery bank, that the alternators are as protected as possible. To control each alternator, I used Wakespeed’s WS-500 regulators for each alternator, connected together using their CAN bus technology. They also provide a level of surge/spike protection as well, but their real benefit is outlined below. ### Wakespeed WS-500 regulators ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Wakespeed.jpg) Wakespeed WS-500 regulator The WS-500 is one of the main reasons my entire system works as well as it does while underway. There are two major reasons for this. First, the two regulators are connected together, and are able to coordinate their efforts to charge the battery bank. This means they can adjust the charge rates to be the same, and ensure that one alternator is not doing the majority of the work, or fighting with the other. There are other solutions on the market that allow you to do some parts of this, but they are extremely complex (Balmar Centerfielder comes to mind with tons of connections) and are far more basic at how they deal with conflict resolution. The Wakespeed system actually exchanges data across an ethernet cable that connects the two regulators together via CAN bus, and can be upgraded, modified, and tuned. The second reason is one of the core parts of why Wakespeed is so awesome – using voltage, temperature **and current** to make calculations about how to charge your batteries. I have mine using the same shunt my Victron BMV-712 uses to see the actual current coming into the battery bank from **all sources.** This combined with advanced and completely configurable charging logic finally brings the world of alternator regulators to the same level as an advanced battery charger. This is truly a revolutionary product, and one we have needed for a long time. It has always surprised me that the primary method most people use to charge while away from the dock (alternator on an engine) has far less technology and control than any other part of your charging system. You end up relying on this system to do the bulk of all charging, yet it is not anywhere near as smart or safe as all of the other systems. With the Wakespeed WS-500, you have a very intelligent system that looks at the same data as a standard battery charger and can control multiple alternators efficiently and safely. I have a dedicated article planned on the installation, configuration, and usage of my Wakespeed WS-500 system that will be published very soon, and contain a lot more details. ### Start and Generator Batteries Since the alternators were no longer charging the starting batteries, I needed a solution to ensure the start and generator batteries were still charged both at the dock and underway. I found a very elegant solution in the Sterling Power DC to DC battery chargers. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Sterling-DC-to-DC-charger.jpg) These devices have been around a long while, and are not as used as I think they should be. They are full-fledged battery chargers with programmable profiles, completely isolating one battery bank from the other, and only allowing current to flow one way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Sterling-DC-to-DC-charger-close-up.jpg) In my case, I have three of them – one for each starting battery and one for the generator battery. All three get their DC source from the house bank, and connect directly to each of the batteries to be charged. Since those batteries are Lifeline AGM group 31 batteries, I’ve customized the charging profiles to match the manufacturers recommendation to ensure long life and good performance. The DC to DC chargers are set to charge when the house bank is 13v or greater, and do a fantastic job at it. Whenever the house bank is under charge, whether that be from the engines running the alternators, generator providing AC power to the Victron inverter/charger, or the Victron getting AC power from the dock, the DC to DC chargers are keeping those battery banks topped up. It is also a one way relationship – the chargers can only ever charge the start/generator batteries, ensuring they are isolated from the house bank and never drawn down accidentally. I do still have a combiner switch at my main DC panel that would allow me to use power from the start batteries to run house DC loads in the event of a full house bank failure, but that would only be in emergency. Some have questioned not using a higher amperage device like an ACR in the event my start batteries need lots of amps quickly. This issue was brought up as if I were in a dire situation priming an engine and needed to crank the starter for long periods of time. Based on my engine specs, I did the calculations, and I could crank the engine between 40-60 times for 10-15 second intervals before depleting one of the Group 31 AGM batteries. That seems like a lot of time, and I likely have many other issues at that point. Also, I have a second battery connected to the other engine, and can combine the bank if needed. ### Charging theory Taking all of the systems above, I focused on trying to design a very predictable, controllable, and safe charging system, which is usually where compromises are made when retrofitting a boat. Getting good quality DC power is much easier with modular busses, better cabling, etc. High quality inverted and AC power is also pretty easy to do with various inverter systems from Victron and many other vendors. Charging is getting easier, but is still the hardest problem to solve well. The key takeaways from this design are: - Each charging source is smart and uses voltage and amperage to charge the destination batteries according to manufacturer guidance as closely as possible. The alternators have the Wakespeed regulators with a custom charge profile while underway, the Victron inverter/charger has a custom charge profile, and the start and generator banks have a custom profile as well. At no point are there odd voltages or other badness that you would see with less accurate regulators, automatic charging relays, or voltage drops due to longer runs of wire between house + start + ACR. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/IMG_2918.jpg) Charging at 370 amps with both engines and inverter - Amperage is sent to the bank that needs it most, with appropriate protection. At peak charging rates, with both engines at 1000 RPM or more, and the generator on running the Victron inverter/charger, I can generate around 370 amps continuously. - Most charging comes from the engines, which already have to run while underway, and see very little impact from having to spin a bigger alternator. It also adds redundancy since there are two alternators charging the same bank. - Start and generator battery banks are isolated from the house bank, and have their own very predictable and controllable charge source that works both away from the dock and on shore power without fussing. ### Battery Choice One of the biggest choices in the design was the type and size of LiFePO4 batteries. There are two major types to choose from – dedicated LiFePO4 batteries like the [Victron 300 amp hour one I used on Grace](https://seabits.com/installing-and-using-a-victron-lifepo4-energy-system/) which require an external BMS, and “drop-in” LiFePO4 batteries with built in BMS and other tech. Both types have their pros and cons, and have varying costs. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/IMG_0976.jpg) Standard LiFePO4 batteries usually have higher charge/discharge rates, are made in more form factors, and generally have more monitoring available via connections to the cells or on-board chips. However, they require an external BMS of some sort which can add a lot of complexity. In addition, they almost always require some sort of cut off device, such as the Victron Battery protect, which adds even more wiring, terminations, and complexity. These types of batteries are also more sensitive to charging rates, and can be slightly to excessively more expensive than drop-ins, depending on the brand. Drop-in batteries are usually made to standard form factors and are easily added to an existing setup without changing other equipment around it, including your inverter. They do not require a BMS since it is built into the battery, nor a cut off device as that is factored in as well. The major brands have large communities of people who are using their products in multiple industries, and seem to have excellent track records. On the con side, these batteries have much lower charge/discharge rates which you need to plan for in your design, have simpler BMS’es built into the battery that can become a problem in some situations. There are also concerns from the industry that drop-in batteries won’t last their listed 3000-5000 discharge cycles, but I am not sure if that is true, or just non-drop-in battery companies trying to market you their products. ⚠️ Updated March 2026: ****I no longer recommend Battle Born Batteries**. In fact, if you have these batteries on your boat, I highly recommend you ****remove them from service immediately.** For more detailed testing, please see [Will Prowse's videos](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7bvIB2TPsCgD4TxUxf3szWyxRz%5FHwUd1&ref=seabits.com) \- he's published 7 of them that show a multitude of serious problems that the manufacturer is ignoring. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Battle-Borns-2.jpg) After months of investigation and consultation with a number of vendors, I decided on [Battle Born 100Ah 12V GC2 LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries](https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop/100ah-12v-gc2-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery/?ref=seabits.com) for my design. Battle Born has one of the largest communities of users I could find, excellent reviews from tons of people who use them, and really awesome customer service that put up with my litany of questions via email and on the phone prior to purchase. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/IMG_2829.jpg) Their specs matched my design which include a 100 amp discharge and 50-100 amp charge rate per battery. The other huge plus was their form factor, which matched my existing golf cart battery size and space. This cut down on building a new enclosure and made wiring and install simpler. I could have literally bought these batteries, and nothing else, dropped them in, and had 200 amp hours more capacity without doing a single other part of this project. I still would have had slower charging than I would have liked, but this is a huge point in favor of drop-in batteries as a solution for weight/capacity issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Battle-Born-alone-1.jpg) There were a number of other nice design features, including having the offset terminal connections on the top of the battery at one end, which also had a slight depression so that your cabling could be run in a way that it wouldn’t exceed the overall height of the battery. There were also molded sliding strap holders on the side of the batteries to help with installation and removal. One other thing to consider with drop-in batteries is shipping. I’ve found that anything less than 100 amp hours can be shipped by normal FedEx or UPS methods, although it still uses the ground versions of those shippers, so it can take 3-5 business days to reach you. The larger Victron, Lithionics batteries I’ve ordered take multiple weeks, if not longer, to ship, and usually can only be delivered at a loading dock via shipping companies that can be challenging to work with. If speed or shipping locations are a challenge for you, drop-in batteries including Battle Born may be a better option. ## Final Design ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Rendezvous-Electrical-System.png) Final system diagram – note that control connections, fuses, switches, and the entire negative bus have been omitted for display simplicity The whole system is as follows: - [Victron MultiPlus 3000W 12V inverter/charger](https://amzn.to/2M630sO?ref=seabits.com) - [Victron BMV-712 battery monitor](https://amzn.to/309nCJR?ref=seabits.com) - [Victron Color Control GX display](https://amzn.to/30GMWD0?ref=seabits.com) - [6x Battle Born 100Ah 12V GC2 LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries](https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop/100ah-12v-gc2-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery/?ref=seabits.com) - [3x Lifeline G31 AGM batteries for start and generator banks](https://lifelinebatteries.com/products/marine-batteries/gpl-3100t/?ref=seabits.com) - [2x Balmar XT-170 alternators](http://www.balmar.net/product/alternators/alternator-xt-sf-170-dv/?ref=seabits.com) - [2x Wakespeed WS-500 alternator regulators](http://www.wakespeed.com/products.html?ref=seabits.com) - [2x Sterling Power Alternator Protection Devices](https://www.sterling-power-usa.com/SterlingPower12voltalternatorprotectiondevice.aspx?ref=seabits.com) - [3x Sterling Power DC-to-DC 12v to 12v chargers](https://www.sterling-power-usa.com/sterlingpowerusadcinputbatterytobatterycharger.aspx?ref=seabits.com) - [Marinco Pro Series busses, fuses, and distribution](https://www.marinco.com/en/products/pro-installer?ref=seabits.com) - Lots of wire, ends, etc. ## Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Steve-installing.jpg) The author in his element Installation happened over a 2 week period and included a few additional detours. I had already removed the two hulking 8D start batteries, and slightly less hulking 4D generator start battery after they failed. The new Lifeline G31 AGM starting batteries were already in place, being charged by a temporary AC-based charger. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Original-batteries-coming-out.jpg) Old house bank coming out The first challenge was getting the old and heavy 6V golf cart house bank out of the engine room and off the boat. Each of these weighed close to 80 pounds, and required multiple lifts to safely get them out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Battle-born-and-original-batteries.jpg) The new Battle Born 100 amp hour GC2 sized batteries were only 31 pounds, so much easier to move around and get into place. ⚠️ Updated March 2026: ****I no longer recommend Battle Born Batteries**. In fact, if you have these batteries on your boat, I highly recommend you ****remove them from service immediately.** For more detailed testing, please see [Will Prowse's videos](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7bvIB2TPsCgD4TxUxf3szWyxRz%5FHwUd1&ref=seabits.com) \- he's published 7 of them that show a multitude of serious problems that the manufacturer is ignoring. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Battle-Born-being-test-fit.jpg) Test fitting the Battle Born batteries I ended up re-using the existing battery box, as it was in OK condition. Longer term I want to remove this box, and the one astern of it that houses the two Group 31 Lifeline AGM starting batteries for the main engines. If I redesign this to a much larger sectioned box, I could get 2-3 more 100 amp hour batteries in the space to increase my house bank, or use the extra space for something completely different. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/ProInstaller.png) Marinco Pro Series busses, fuses, and switches – early version of the layout I leveraged the [Marinco Pro Installer Series](https://www.marinco.com/en/products/pro-installer?ref=seabits.com) busses and fuses to create proper fusing and distribution for the alternators, house bank, inverter/charger, and DC distribution. Prior to this, it was simply cables without fuses in most places, which was the way boats were built back when Rendezvous was originally set up, but I wanted it to be as current as possible. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Inverter-initial-install.jpg) Victron MultiPlus 3000W inverter mid-install I rerouted the main AC input through the Victron inverter/charger. This allowed me to control my entire 30 AMP connection from one place, and use load sharing and other features which will prevent me from tripping the shore side breaker. It also could allow for automatic generator start/stop in the future, if I want to get to that point. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/I-should-own-stock-in-Ancor.jpg) I should buy stock in Ancor…. I also replaced the main DC house wiring from the battery bank to the main panel. It originally ran from the front of the engine room to the back, along the port side of the boat, and then crossed over to starboard where the main DC distribution is. I estimate this was about 35-40 feet of length. I was able to cut this down to 10 feet by going directly from the new distribution to the DC panel. This reduction in cable from the house bank to the panel, and the higher voltages that the LiFePO4 batteries output in general meant a more consistent and higher overall voltage to all DC devices, which is a good thing for pumps and compressors and lights which all should last a bit longer and perform a bit better with this more stable supply. One big change was how AC wiring was handled. Those devices running off of the inverter were on a separate neutral bus which was combined with the non-inverted devices when needed depending on the original Magnum inverter and its current state. This is pretty easy to achieve in theory, but I found 4 different plugs/devices on the boat when I bought her that were not on the right neutral bus. That meant that either those devices didn’t work, or in one case, it worked very weirdly/poorly. Having all AC power run through the inverter means that split bus could be eliminated, simplifying the entire system for any future changes. ## Results The biggest result has been the increased capacity of 600 amp hours provided by the Battle Born batteries. We have doubled the time we can be at anchor without major charging. This has meant less time charging with the generator while at anchor, and more peace of mind – I don’t have to keep nagging people. With the old system, we could barely get a day at anchor, mainly due to the size of the bank, but also given that we were never really able to charge it fully. While we had 420 amp hours with that design, we rarely were able to use more than about 300 amp hours on trips without having to charge excessively long to get those last few amp hours. With the Battle Born batteries, we’re able to use that whole 600 amp hours of capacity. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Victron-VRM-app-large-440-amp-discharge.jpg) Victron VRM app showing deep state of discharge for the warmer days Several times this summer on one of my longer trips, it was 90F outside during the day, and we had the primary fridge/freezer, secondary freezer, ice machine, and lots of other smaller loads all running off of the inverter. Because the boat got so warm inside, those appliances ate up tons of power keeping their contents cool, which we all appreciated. Several times we went through a whopping 400 amp hours of power in a day because of those appliances plus all of the electronics, TV, coffee and espresso machines, lighting, and deep-into-the-night activities with the music, etc. That is definitely not the norm for our usage, but it didn’t pose a huge problem the next morning – we always had at least a 2 hour journey on that trip, which meant things were charged back up very quickly. The main reason this was possible was the higher output alternators combined with the Wakespeed WS-500 regulators. Having come from sailboats for the last 20+ years, seeing a boat draw 200 amp hours a day, let alone 440 is still quite a shock to me! Even though I have a very convenient and quiet generator that can charge things quickly and keep my floating apartment comfortable, I am still, and will likely always be, a power miser, and always looking for ways to improve overall electrical performance and reduce what we use. Still, 440 amp hours!? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Victron-VRM-Battery-Voltage-and-Current.png) Victron VRM showing 320 amps of charging for a bit over an hour The second biggest change is the charging time, which is directly linked to the Wakespeed setup + larger alternators + house bank charging. It has been simply amazing how efficient the Wakespeed regulators are, combined with the 170 amp dual alternator setup. We can go from an almost completely depleted bank to a fully charged house bank in around 2 hours of motoring time. If you throw in the generator as well, which uses the Victron inverter/charger to send 120 amps into the mix, it cuts that down even more. We routinely would be running the generator anyhow to power the water maker, and my preference is to load up the generator as much as possible to get the best result out of using it, so it was adding to the charging as well. I can’t understate the night-and-day difference of the Battle Born batteries combined with the Wakespeed regulators + Balmar alternators. What used to be a system that I would monitor constantly – watching usage during the day, yelling at the random person for leaving a light on, running the generator extra long, and urging the charger to get that last 10% on the flooded batteries – all of that is gone. I now know that regardless of how low we get our house bank, it can get back to a day’s capacity in less than an hour of motoring, or a bit more with the generator. That is a huge weight of my mind, and allows me to focus on having more fun! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/IMG_3251.jpg) SIgnalK dashboard showing various things including data from Color Control GX The visibility is also exactly what I wanted, with the Color Control GX showing me everything I need to know about the house system, and keeping an eye on the voltages and health of the start and generator banks as well. Having this information in real-time while on the boat, and remotely via the [Victron Remote Monitoring Portal ](https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/36577/share/e2facc5a?ref=seabits.com)is perfect. I’ve also configured various alarms both on-board within the BMV-712, and in the VRM system so I am always aware of critical situations wherever I am. I’m used to this from other Victron projects both on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), at my family cabin, and for other customers, but it is still nice to have it again, after 6+ months without! > You can [view Rendezvous live data on Victron’s VRM Portal here](https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/36577/share/e2facc5a?ref=seabits.com). When I’m at the dock, it is pretty uninteresting, so change the date range to see times away from the dock, charging rates, etc. The peace of mind in isolating the start and generator batteries is also very appreciated. Instead of having multiple charge sources for these critical banks, everything is simplified and treating the batteries very nicely. Overall, I feel that this system has addressed my goals of having more capacity, better monitoring, redundancy, and more simplicity than some of the other LiFePO4 systems I’ve worked on and installed. I’m looking forward to more time away from the dock without worrying about my power system! ? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Tools.jpg) --- ⚠️ Updated December 2025: I am aware of the [safety issue that Will Prowse](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XP2yPY57Wjc&ref=seabits.com) has identified. I recommend anyone who owns Battle Born batteries carefully review both the initial safety video linked above, as well as his [second video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fD3yaRvp3o&ref=seabits.com) based on Battle Born's rather unique response. I also recommend if you have Battle Born batteries that you check the flag terminals as soon as possible to ensure none of them feel loose. If you have issues, contact Battle Born support. ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [John Rushworth](http://john.rushworth.com/?ref=seabits.com) [February 11, 2019 at 2:08 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-318) Nice job. John R – Victron Blogger: [https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/](https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/?ref=seabits.com) I have a MulltiPlus and lithium batteries too, on my Victoria 800 electric propulsion yacht, which I converted from noisy/smelly diesel some years back: [http://john.rushworth.com/](http://john.rushworth.com/?ref=seabits.com) Stanton Reed Koch [April 27, 2020 at 3:39 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-139) Hi Steve. Great writeup. I’m wondering how you handle the back EMF if the lithium batteries cut out under load? You have protection for your alternators for when they cut out at full charge. Is there some protection you have for your electronics if they cut out from excess load from a back EMF prone load like a windlass or a water pressure pump? Obviously you have the load capacity from the batteries but maybe not if you were running them to the floor and then your water pump kicked in as you were bringing up the dingy. Stanton Reed Koch [May 2, 2020 at 5:33 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-136) Because of the high voltage of lithium batteries most dc to dc chargers will be always on and act as a parasitic load at anchor since the voltage needs to drop below 13v for them to go into sleep mode. Did you put In a switch that would turn them on with ignition when cruising versus full auto for when you leave the boat at the dock with the ignition off and the chargers on? Another question is what do you think of hybrid lithium SLA battery setups? One example would be adding a small SLA in parallel to your battleborns instead of the sterling alternator protection as a way of always having a battery in the system regardless of the lithium connection state. I’ve seen this recommended but the issue of having a full SLA seeng 14+v charging current from an inverter that can’t see CAR like the WA500s can is not discussed and would seem an issue. Stanton Reed Koch [May 3, 2020 at 3:58 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-209) Do you see much in the way of voltage fluctuations from sudden loads when the battleborn’s are offline because they are full so your hotel load is supported from the alternators or the alternators and the inverter? Do those charge devices do a good job keeping constant voltage under quickly changing loads? Or is it the case that, like agms, battleborns rarely get full and go offline except at the dock when they’ve got hours to get that last little bit in. Tom [May 15, 2020 at 1:39 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-134) Just ran across this and took in a lot of information; excellent and thank you. We have been planning a Lithium/Victron fully integrated system very similar to yours however using two Victron Quattros in split phase to provide our needed 240VAC to run the two forward AC units. Integrated also with our design is an AGS which will operate the Onan generator based upon the vessel loads and SOC when off shore power. The question I have is why didn’t you also use the BattleBorn batteries for start batteries? It seems as you have a capability of 1200 amps for 30 seconds (provided the cabling could support) these could easily be utilized for starting thus greatly simplifying the alternator charging system. We have two Cummins QSM11 660HP engines and the measured cranking amperage is 360 amps with an average start time less than 5 seconds. Owen [September 15, 2020 at 5:04 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-63) Can you elaborate on why you went with Battleborn batteries compared to the Victron ones you used on Grace? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 15, 2020 at 4:47 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-64) Hi Owen, I mention one of the main reasons why in the article – simplification. When using traditional (non drop-in) LiFePO4 batteries, they require a BMS and other components for a successful install. You’ll see those in the design and install on Grace. In particular, the safety cut offs that had to be everywhere on the loads and charge sources increased the complexity and wiring. Drop-in batteries like the Battle Borns have that built in to each battery. There are many debates as to which approach is better – both have merit, and I wanted something simpler. In addition, Victron batteries are funky sizes, not really conforming to any marine standard. I had existing GC2 (golf cart sized) 6V batteries, and Battle Born makes a drop in replacement size-wise, which made things a lot easier in the physical design. Ryan [November 8, 2020 at 3:44 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-34) Hello, Just coming across this as Im researching the dc-dc charger config almost exactly as you have shown. Just wondering, as those sterling power units dont have temperature compensation, have you run into any issues with battery health as a result? Thanks! – Ryan Brandon [November 12, 2020 at 7:50 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-29) Hi Steve, Thank you for such helpful articles. I’m looking at replicating your setup and am am wondering about the Quattro vs the MultiPlus. The Quattro 12/3000 seems to be a great fit because of the dual AC inputs (1 short / 1 gen ). Do you see any downside to the Quattro? Any other recommendations you would make, now that you have been living with the setup for over a year? Thanks! Sergei Prutkin [December 6, 2020 at 11:03 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-23) Thank you, Steve! Another great article and tons of useful information! One question about the Sterling devices and the Alternator dump-load/high voltage spike protection. I am working on building my own 24V LiFePO4 battery using Winston 700Ah cells and REC BMS, Wakespeed WS500 and Victron GX and some other similar to your system components. I would like to protect my older Leece Neville 8SC3009ZA 24V 175 Amp Alternator from a potential emergency battery disconnect and dump-load/high voltage spike. Do you think WS500’s ability to regulate the voltage based on current using their shunt would not be enough to protect the diodes from burning out? Is it because of not adequate amount of time that WS500 needs to react an emergency battery disconnect? Another question, you used DC-DC charges and Sterling alternator protection devices. Would it be enough to just have DC-DC charges to protect your alternators from the spike during the main battery bank disconnect as the DC-DC chargers are always going to be on? James Holm [February 22, 2021 at 6:20 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-1758) Steve, I had a question about the dc to dc charger. I have a 2008 Beneteau 46, with a house of four 4d Lifeline AGM batteries (210 ampHr each) and one AGM engine battery (plus a thruster battery). I have the stock 80amp alternator with build in regulator. I have four 200 watt solar panels, with two in series going to their own Victron 100/30 controller (you gave me good advice there) both going to the house batteries. I was thinking of moving my alternator to house (I think it is only engine battery now), and with solar on house, getting a dc to dc charger from house to engine battery (maybe the Victron Orion smart). That will all my input to house and just cross over to engine battery when needed. I was also looking at the Victron Argo FEET battery isolator so the alternator could feed both banks. Thoughts? Jim - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 22, 2021 at 10:13 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-1767) Hi Jim, I prefer the simpler DC-to-DC charger setup in the last few years. It is easier to diagnose if there are problems, generally protects your start bank / battery from ever being depleted, and is very reliable. I prefer the Sterling DC-to-DC chargers as the Victron one was missing something the last time I checked on it, but I can’t remember what. You could even do two DC-to-DC chargers – one for start and one for thrusters – that last one could be higher amperage as well so that it charged the thrusters back up faster in case you needed that. I can’t say for sure all of this would work without a full diagram and considering other things, but your high level plan sounds good. - James Holm [February 23, 2021 at 11:58 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-1788) Thanks Steve. Did you have any special set up in Grace to address these issues? Oh… thanks for your advice on my inflatable. I have a highfield 360 and yamaha EFI 25hp arriving in a month or so. I can’t wait. Jim - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 24, 2021 at 9:10 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-1848) I’m not sure which issues you’re talking about? Also, I sold Grace about 3 years ago – this article is on my new boat. Glad you found a good dinghy! - James Holm [February 24, 2021 at 10:21 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-1851) Oh… just wondering if you upgraded your alternator/regulator and/or used a dc to dc converter on Grace. Thanks. Jim - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 24, 2021 at 10:49 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-1853) Ah gotcha. Yes, I upgraded my alternator to several different types throughout the years I owned Grace and also used several different regulators that helped with the smaller sailboat engine at idle, etc. I used a DC to DC converter instead of a Cyrix relay for charging my start battery. [Jim Healy](http://gilwellbear.wordpress.com/?ref=seabits.com) [June 7, 2021 at 10:18 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-3549) Steve, Good, thoughtful discussion. Much appreciated. What do you include in your “definition” of “house?” Specifically, did you separate your nav equipment from your “house” loads; ie, what happens to your nav equipment if you have a BMS disconnect? Did you find the ABYC Technical Report (TE-13) on Lithium Ion batteries helpful in making design decisions? One thing TE-13 recommends is a BMS pre-disconnect warning. That’s helpful in protecting alternators from a sudden BMS disconnect damage because the pre-alarm can be used to shut down field drive to the alternator. Looks like this project involved new alternators, replaced existing inverter/charger, new voltage regulators, rewiring/reconfiguration, DC-to-DC converters, and new batteries. What was the total cost of your upgrade, in dollars? How much labor time (labor hours) do you think you have in doing the actual upgrade? Thanks, Jim - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [June 8, 2021 at 6:12 pm](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-3550) Hi Jim, My house loads are pretty traditional and include the navigation equipment. I am using drop-in batteries which do not have a single BMS that controls the entire bank, which is one of the pros/cons. It would be unlikely that all 8 batteries BMS’s would disconnect simultaneously due to discharge. If they were being overcharged, say at something over 800 amps, which would be very difficult to generate to begin with, the Class T fuse for the main bank itself would go far before that (at 500 amps) and everything would shut off, which is what I would want. I would rather have a dark boat with no house or navigation if something were trying to charge beyond that level, or there was some other situation going on. I think the new technical report from ABYC (TE-13) is a good thing to have for traditional home-built or non-drop in Lithium banks that have a single BMS that could disconnect everything. I don’t think it’s much different than flooded or gel batteries when they get to a lower voltage and stuff stops working in similar or even worse ways with inadequate voltage, reboots, etc. that I’ve seen on many boats I’ve worked on. I think the idea is good, but there are many other things that should be dealt with before BMS notifications IMHO around these sorts of batteries. I used Sterling Alternator Protection Devices with each of my new alternators which some have proven to be a good solution to a BMS shutoff to protect the alternators. I’ve had my share of BMS-wired control systems fail too, and not shut down or prevent situations they were supposed to, so I would be in favor of a “solid state” device like the APD combined with a wired BMS alarm to ensure things were safer. I also have Wakespeed WS500 regulators that are controlled at a much more aggressive rate than other regulators, and are receiving the real-time amperage going in/out of the battery bank, so that can help in those situations as well. They also have a provision for a BMS input via various means to shut off the alternators too, although since my batteries are drop-in and do not have an external BMS, that doesn’t really apply. The total cost for the raw materials was about $15,000 which included about $8000 of batteries. It was a good week of work, so around 40 hours, to install, but I know the boat very well and am very efficient once I diagram out one of my own projects. It would have taken much longer for someone else in my opinion. Hope that helps. Keith Harris [June 25, 2021 at 10:12 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-3563) Hi Steve, You mentioned that you used the BMV 712 shunt for the Wakespeed current monitoring? Was that simply using the ring terminal connections on the side? Any issues since, either with the BMV or WS-500? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 9, 2021 at 9:27 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-3576) Hi Keith, Yes, I used the ring terminal connections right on the side of the shunt. I’ve had issues with the WS-500 reading current amounts consistently between the two units I have. I’m currently discussing this with Wakespeed, and have brought it up over the last 6 months, but they do not have a solution to it yet. I suspect this is a problem with one or both of my units, and is not an issue with using a shunt like this, as many other people have a single Wakespeed with a BMV (including installs I’ve done for them) without an issue. Keith Harris [July 9, 2021 at 11:07 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-3579) Hi Steve, Thanks for your reply. I took a leap of faith and tried connecting to the BMV as you just described but it didn’t like it, the BMV and WS-500 Configuration Tool values didn’t match so I installed a separate shunt and then they did. Interestingly when you’re solution might be here; [https://www.offgridsoftwaresolutions.com/ws500-user-forum/topic/twin-engine-installation-with-2-](https://www.offgridsoftwaresolutions.com/ws500-user-forum/topic/twin-engine-installation-with-2-?ref=seabits.com) Basically they recommend for large alternators 1 separate shunt per alternator. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 10, 2021 at 10:24 am](https://seabits.com/victron-wakespeed-battle-born-power-system/#comment-3582) Hi Keith, I saw that post a week or so ago. I think the recommendation is a shunt per alternator if you want to limit the amp output for each alternator. From my discussions with Wakespeed, a single shunt with dual alternators is also an acceptable alternative if you are focused on the battery centric approach. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 4 comments Jason Formo@Jason\_Formo December 05, 2022 I’m setting up a similar Balmar + wakespeen system on my Volvo TAMD63p’s and am getting the battery alarm now because there isn’t a D+ connection. I haven’t installed the multiplus or new batteries yet though, still charging my old GC2’s. There is a FAQ on Balmars website that uses automotive relays but not sure that will work with the non-Balmar regulators. Is there a work around for the alarms? Thanks! Jason Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 December 08, 2022 I had a challenge with this on my Volvo TAMD61s on Rendezvous. I can’t seem to remember how I solved it, but it wasn’t as pretty as I wanted. I think a relay would work regardless of the alternator… Steve Mitchell@steve December 14, 2025 I am aware of the [safety issue that Will Prowse](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XP2yPY57Wjc&ref=seabits.com) has identified with Battle Born batteries. I recommend anyone who owns Battle Born batteries carefully review both the [initial video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XP2yPY57Wjc&ref=seabits.com), as well as his [second video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fD3yaRvp3o&ref=seabits.com) based on Battle Born’s rather unique response. I also recommend if you have Battle Born batteries that you check the flag terminals as soon as possible to ensure none of them feel loose. If you have issues, contact Battle Born support. Battle Born’s response is …. not great. I agree with Will in that the design is not a “ feature” and is highly concerning. Their response seems like one crafted by a marketing person, and not truly being forthcoming. I hope that they have the opportunity to deal with this situation more appropriately. Battle Born have been a good brand for a long time, and not only did I recommend them, but I used them on a previous boat (what this article is about). However, this design is highly concerning, and I would want to make sure that if I owned them now, they were not exhibiting any issues, and would definitely think twice about purchasing them new based on this design. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 March 17, 2026 I would highly recommend anyone with Battle Born batteries in their boat review testing that Will Prowse has done. The latest video [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIE1-hIhbvM&ref=seabits.com) shows continual problems that are dangerous to have in any battery, whether it be aboard a boat or in an RV. Battle Born’s responses have been very disappointing. If I had these batteries aboard, I would be testing them individually, contacting Battle Born for replacements, joining the class action lawsuit that is in progress, and removing them from my boat as soon as possible. ### Best boat Internet systems URL: https://seabits.com/best-boat-internet-systems/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T17:53:48.000Z I get asked a lot to recommend the best Internet setup for boats. Below are my recommended system designs. There are several different choices depending on your technical ability and budget. ## Newer Article Available There is a newer version of this article at [Recommended Internet Systems & Cellular Plans](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/). Please use that article instead of this one! [Recommended Internet Systems & Cellular PlansBelow are some of the current systems / hardware / plans I recommend. These are constantly changing, so check back often.![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Pepwave-MAX-Transit-CAT18-ethernet-power.jpeg)](https://seabits.com/recommended-systems-plans/) > Revision History > 2019 – September – Created > 2019 – December – new best LTE antenna – Poynting > 2020 – August – updated link to new system on Rendezvous + Nighthawk + CAT18 options > 2021 – March – new article available with better options and choices ## Choosing a system There are generally two major variables in choosing a system – your **budget** and your **skills**. My advice when choosing a system: spend as much as you can budget-wise to ensure you get the highest performing, easiest to use system with the most features. Just like many other industries, you get what you pay for, and if you go cheap, you will need to do more work to set it up, or have missing features. I prefer to spend my time enjoying the water and the views when I am out and about, rather than mess with the Internet connection. Many people choose the cheapest option first, which always amuses me – if you consider Internet access to be pretty critical, spend as much money and time on it as you do on your power system, engine, sails, etc. > If you want to see my current system, check out [Rendezvous internet setup for 2020](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/) ## Systems The systems below will get you the following base features: - On board WiFi network using both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz frequencies - Connection to an LTE provider of your choice for Internet connectivity - At least one LAN Ethernet port to connect wired devices You can add various options including outdoor antennas, amplifiers, remote WiFi boosters, and switches. See further down the page for details on those options. ## Top of the Line – Pepwave MAX Transit – $899+ This solution is the best on the market right now in terms of flexibility, options, and performance. It is an enterprise-grade, mobile router that not only will accept two or more SIM cards for LTE internet, but spits out both 2.4 and 5Ghz WiFi, has a ton of features, and is an all around solid performer. I’ve been using Pepwave products for almost 15 years now, and they consistently outperform everything else I have tested. I highly recommend any of their routers – I even use their Balance series at home and on land and VPN them together. The [MAX Transit series comes in two flavors](https://www.peplink.com/products/max-transit/?ref=seabits.com) – one with two SIM slots and one radio (MAX Transit), and one with 4 SIM slots and two radios, called the MAX Transit Duo. I would only recommend the Transit Duo if you require two simultaneous LTE connections for bandwidth or redundancy. The Duo costs a lot more, and has a ton of antennas, but if you have the budget, and multiple SIM cards, it might be a good investment for you. > Note: for any LTE product, make sure you get the latest LTE modem to ensure it supports all of the frequencies for your provider(s) and will have longevity. Right now Category 18 is the newest available for the MAX Transit. The MAX Transit runs off of DC power, has a single WAN port (for an optional WAN device like a MikroTik Groove) and a single LAN port for cabled devices. You can add a switch for more ports (see below). It is very compact and can be mounted in various ways. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/03/Pepwave-MAX-Transit-CAT18-antenna-ports-1024x768.jpeg) Top of my Peplink MAX Transit with the antenna connectors and covered SIM slots The real star of the Peplink products is the software, which has tons of features and options that add value having it on a boat. [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/) covers some of these features, including dual SSIDs/networks & bandwidth shaping. [Peplink has a live demo showing most of their features](https://www.peplink.com/products/balance/live-demo/?ref=seabits.com). I would recommend logging in and checking out the Network and AP tabs to see the depth and configurability. You can also see some of the LTE specific features in my post on [Grace’s redundant Internet setup](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/) which is my previous boat. - [Pepwave MAX Transit with CAT12 LTE modem](https://5gstore.com/product/8919%5Fpepwave%5Fmax%5Ftransit.html?ref=seabits.com) (older model) - [Pepwave MAX Transit with CAT18 LTE modem](https://www.milltechmarine.com/Pepwave-MAX-Transit-Category-18-LTE-Router%5Fp%5F637.html?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com) (current model) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/transit-webspecs.png) ## Mid-Level – Pepwave MAX BR1 MK2 – $599 The original Pepwave MAX BR1 was one of the most popular LTE routers available, and after a long wait, Pepwave has updated it to the MK2, which is an excellent solution. It is very similar to the MAX Transit above in almost every way except performance. The MAX Transit has more powerful signal for your on boat WiFi networks, and a faster processor in case you’re doing some of the more advanced features. The MAX Transit also supports CAT 12 LTE networks, while the BR1 MK2 only has a CAT6. Still, this is an amazing product, and for most people, it will be more than enough in terms of performance. If you have a larger boat, you might want to consider the MAX Transit, but I highly recommend the BR1 MK2. > Note: for any LTE product, make sure you get the latest LTE modem to ensure it supports all of the frequencies for your provider(s) and will have longevity. Right now Category 6 is the newest available for the MAX Transit. - [Pepwave MAX BR1 MK2 with CAT6 LTE modem](https://www.milltechmarine.com/peplink-max-br1-mk2-lte-router.html?AffId=4&ref=seabits.com) – $599 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/isometric-500px.jpg) ## Netgear Nighthawk M1 – $350 The [Netgear Nighthawk M1](https://amzn.to/31kRjHo?ref=seabits.com) is a fantastic all-in-one device. It has a powerful LTE radio, dual band WiFi, ethernet port, and external antenna ports. It’s considered a “hotspot” style device, but it is a very powerful version of those products. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/MR1100-medium-front.png) The Nighthawk has a big screen so you can see how many devices are connected, signal strength, and other useful info. It also has a good web-based interface so you can configure things. It’s definitely simpler to use than Peplink products, but that simplicity takes away some features. Not only is it a great on-board router, but it is battery powered and can be taken ashore when needed. It’s a very versatile option that is more powerful than just using your phone. Pair it with a [Netgear MIMO antenna ](https://amzn.to/3aPhY28?ref=seabits.com)that can be stuck to a window for better signal, and you have a pretty powerful setup. You can even get adapters to connect to a fully outdoor antenna if you want to. > Note: The Nighthawk is best used with AT&T and T-Mobile. Verizon is not supported. ## Home Router – $268 For those looking for a cheaper solution, a good choice is to pair a consumer grade home router with the Netgear LB1120 LTE modem/router. This allows you to have a familiar and simplified router software and interface for a much cheaper prices. What you won’t get with this solution is the specific LTE and mobile features built into Peplink products. Some of these will help with managing LTE data usage and others will help the overall experience as I cover in [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/). If you have a lot of people uploading photos, or require more control over your LTE bandwidth usage, one of the more expensive solutions above would be better. You also will have challenges adding another Internet source (commonly referred to as a WAN source) such as a MikroTik Groove. You can still do this somewhat if you chose the alternate dual port [Netgear LB2120](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQRHQYT?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) which would allow you to connect the Groove upstream of the Negtear LTE router. It would use the Groove if you are connected to WiFi, and fall back to the Negear LTE router when not. However, the control of this is extremely basic, and may not work for all configurations. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/TP-Link-Archer.jpg) TP-Link Archer C2300 router I would also look for a consumer style router that has a 12V DC power supply. In the example below, I’ve chosen one of the best performing home routers in the TP-Link Archer C2300 which just so happens to use a 12V DC power brick. Most of these products can take a varying DC power input of a volt or two, so you could connect it directly to DC power instead of using an AC outlet + inverter. One of the pros/cons about this setup is that it is separate components. This is a pro because you can upgrade the individual pieces when new standards come out – say a new LTE frequency with better performance – rather than being stuck with a Pepwave product that you can’t upgrade. The con is that because there are multiple products, they don’t always play well together, and are surely not integrated to manage. - [TP-Link Archer 2300 router](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ3S6B8?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) – $120 - [Netgear LB1120 LTE modem/router](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQRHQYT?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) – $118 - [Netgear MIMO antenna](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DN3J03O?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) – $30 ## DIY Heaven – $255 For those who want something inexpensive, and have the technical ability to set up the pieces, the DIY Heaven may be for you. I wrote an extensive article [Modular, cheaper boat internet solution via Netgear and MikroTik](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/) that covers the details, and has had over 80 comments – there are a lot of configuration options as a result of these devices being DIY. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/Affordable-boat-internet-MikroTik-hAP-ac-Netgear-LB2120.jpg) However, it is a very cost effective solution to having both LTE and WiFi aboard. Here are the list of components: - [MikroTik hAP AC router](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BMMK4HI?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) – $107 - [Netgear LB1120 LTE modem/router](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQRHQYT?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) – $118 - [Netgear MIMO antenna](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DN3J03O?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) – $30 Keep in mind, this configuration requires moderate to high technical ability – if you don’t understand some basic networking, and working with command lines, please don’t purchase this solution – look at any of the other solutions. It is a very cost-effective solution with a lot of configuration options. The MikroTik router has one of the most powerful WiFi radios you will find anywhere, and can handle an amazing range of DC power options. It also has a ton of software options, that although daunting to configure, can provide you with a wealth of features few other routers can boast. ## Add-Ons There are a number of add-ons for the systems above that I commonly recommend. If you are going to be boating in areas where you are away from good quality LTE signal, I highly recommend considering the following two options below: - Outdoor LTE antenna - Amplifier / booster If you are going to be near marinas and more populated areas where LTE will be congested, and where WiFi networks are available, I would look at the MikroTik Groove remote WiFi option. ## Outdoor LTE Antenna An outdoor antenna, even without an amplifier, can dramatically improve your LTE signal, depending on the type and size of boat you have. I did a lot of testing in [Best LTE antenna and booster for the boat](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/), but in 2019 the best antenna is the Poynting OMNI-400 for around $200\. You can read my review at [Poynting OMNI LTE Antennas](https://seabits.com/poynting-omni-antenna-testing/). ## Amplifier For all systems, you have the choice of them being amplified or “boosted” which I highly recommend if you plan on being in hard-to-reach cellular areas. weBoost is the best in the market in terms of performance and power. The weBoost 4G-X has been the leader for years, but the newest version, the weBoost Reach, has proven even more powerful. I can recommend either, although if you are purchasing right now, I would definitely go for the Reach. - [weBoost Reach](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZURS1?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) – $499 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/IMG_4062.jpg) ## Remote WiFi The only solution right now that I recommend is the MikroTik Groove, mainly because it has the best performance, and is the only solution that can grab remote 2.4Ghz **and** 5Ghz signals. If you are going to be at a marina or other location where you can connect to a remote WiFi network and use that as your source of internet, this is the device to have. It saves using up your LTE bandwidth, and can be connected to any of the systems above in varying priorities so you can turn it on/off. - [MikroTik Groove](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDTKMLJ?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) – $99 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/MikroTik-closeup.jpg) As with any MikroTik product, they are not easy to configure. See [MikroTik Groove step-by-step setup guide](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/) for more help. ## Switch The Peplink products only have a single LAN ethernet port, which can be a limitation if you want to connect other wired devices. I have been using multiple TrendNET industrial 8 port switches for over a year myself in pretty terrible conditions, and have installed many for customers as well. If you need more ports, this is a great solution as it allows multiple DC power inputs, high speed ports, and a very rugged enclosure. - [TrendNET 8 port industrial switch](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014YEYE4U?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/09/IMG_0652.jpg) ## Installation Whichever system you choose, make sure you install it correctly. WiFi and LTE are affected by interference, and both use antennas that need to be placed correctly. Failure to get this right will waste all the effort and money you’ve put into the system. The router component should be placed centrally in your boat, or closer to where people would be consuming WiFi signals. It should be in an area where there isn’t a ton of interference or things like windows or metal to block the WiFi signal. If you use an amplifier or just an external antenna, make sure you use quality cable between the components, and do not exceed the length provided by the manufacturers. Do not add converters, extenders or the like, as it will in many cases negate any benefit from the antenna/booster. LTE and WiFi antennas do **not** need to be mounted as high as possible up a sailboat mast, as they are not line of sight sensitive as much as VHF and other systems. Getting your antenna placement correct is key in making sure you get all the benefits of the antenna / booster. ## Conclusion Having reliable Internet on-board nowadays is considered a requirement for many people. Choosing the right system that fits your budget and expertise can be daunting with all of the choices on the market, but using some of the examples above, you should have a good place to start. If you still have questions, please feel free to [contact me](https://seabits.com/contact/) – not only do I answer emails all the time about configurations, but I also am available for consultative designs. ## Related Articles - [Marina WiFi is hard](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) – why you need 5Ghz and a WiFi booster - [Rendezvous Internet Setup](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/) – my boat’s internet setup - [Modular, cheaper boat internet solution via Netgear and MikroTik](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/) - [MikroTik Groove step-by-step setup guide](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/) - [Best LTE antenna and booster for the boat](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/) - [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/) ### Rendezvous internet setup URL: https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:24:49.000Z One of the most important things to me and my crew is the ability to connect to the Internet for voyage planning, staying in touch with family, social media, and relaxation. Having a reliable setup has always been one of my top goals, usually leveraging several technologies. [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) has a similar setup to some of my other boats, but with some modifications and improvements. > There's a newer setup I'm using now as of 2020 – check out the updated system below. [Rendezvous Internet Setup for 2020This is my Peplink and Poynting based internet system for 2020 aboard Rendezvous using LTE and WiFi sources, and marine grade components…![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-SeaBits-icon-270x270.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://seabits.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/Dashboard1.png)](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup-for-2020/) ## Internet Defined I find that defining what “having Internet” means is pretty important when scoping out a new system for myself or a client. It means very different things to each person or setup, and can be very simple, or very complex. For me, it means a few things: - **On-board WiFi** network offering 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands and both a private and guest network - **Managed network** – similar to what I wrote about in [Managing internet usage on your boat](https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/), I want my networks to have priorities for various devices, and ensure I always have connectivity for critical things. - **LTE internet source** – one of my sources for internet connectivity will be from LTE SIM cards, and I would like to have the ability to switch between at least 2\. I do not need the ability to have two active all the time. I need the ability to control roaming, which SIM is in use, and to set bandwidth/usage alerts. - **WiFi internet source** – my backup source of internet is 2.4Ghz/5Ghz remote WiFi networks. I need to be able to connect to various networks that I see, with or without passwords, and boost them so I can use them aboard. - **Ethernet ports** – certain critical items need to be directly cabled into my local network so that they have always on access both to the internet, but also to local devices for higher speed transfers. It seems simple to define this, but it helps a lot in understanding what devices and solutions you can use. In particular, the 2.4/5Ghz WiFi bands seem to be something people still overlook, even given my [Marina WiFi is hard](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) article. Many routers only provide 2.4Ghz which is, frankly, inadequate for most boats today. I do not have satellite internet anywhere in my list, as I am not going offshore, nor do I need internet in very remote locations like [Princess Louisa Inlet ](https://seabits.com/tag/princess-louisa-inlet/)or the like – there I rely on my Garmin inReach to send/receive text messages for safety, and the rest of the time I use my local WiFi network for on-boat stuff, and enjoy the view/location. The monthly cost for most of the satellite systems is pretty high, and the bandwidth you get as a result is pretty low for my use cases. ## What I chose - **[Peplink MAX Transit](https://5gstore.com/product/7233%5Fpepwave%5Fmax%5Ftransit.html?ref=seabits.com)** – provides 2.4Ghz/5Ghz local WiFi, dual SIM LTE internet, WAN port, LAN port. I’ve used Peplink products for a long time, and the MAX Transit for the last few years. It has the best feature-set, software that you can do just about anything with, has tons of power, and is extremely reliable. - **[MikroTik Groove](https://amzn.to/2YRgOkd?ref=seabits.com)** – for grabbing remote 2.4Ghz/5Ghz WiFi signals and piping them to the WAN port on the Peplink. I’ve used the Groove in both plastic and metal for all of my own installations, as well as many clients, and while it is hard to configure, it is the best solution to grab remote WiFi signals on both bands. - **[weBoost amplifier](https://amzn.to/2KBcuwz?ref=seabits.com)** – I have been using the [Drive 4G-X](https://amzn.to/2Kzb1qG?ref=seabits.com) for several years, but recently have been testing the new [Drive Reach](https://amzn.to/2KBcuwz?ref=seabits.com). Boosters provide a huge advantage when in remote areas both for the Peplink router, and any cell phones nearby. - [**Wilson outdoor LTE antenna** ](https://amzn.to/2Z6WjuZ?ref=seabits.com)– based on [my testing last year](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/), I still think this is the best performing marine-grade antenna available. - **[TRENDnet industrial switch](https://amzn.to/2H8K4Ie?ref=seabits.com)** – this provides Ethernet ports to systems that require them via the LAN port on the Peplink router. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/08/Rendezvous-Internet-5.png) Rendezvous current Internet setup ## Improvements ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/08/IMG_0652.jpg) ### TRENDnet switch On previous boats, I used products from several other companies which were able to run on DC power, but had some heat and performance issues. The [TRENDnet switch](https://amzn.to/2H8K4Ie?ref=seabits.com) runs off of DC power too, but can take two power sources for redundancy, and is made for “industrial” purposes. It has 8 gigabit ports which work very well, and have never had any performance issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/08/IMG_0651.jpg) This switch has performed very well the last 10 months. It has been in both the cold and heat, with lots of vibration and movement, along with devices coming and going. I have a second one in use for my [Furuno network](https://seabits.com/tag/furuno/) which transmits far more data while underway, and have had zero issues with that one as well. ### Wilson LTE antenna ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Wilson-antenna-scaled-768x1024.jpg) This isn’t a new piece of equipment, but I have made it my primary choice after a [ton of testing last year](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/) with various other types of antennas. Since then, I have tried a few other antennas, but none of them have been built as well as the Wilson. It has an excellent marine mount, which makes it very easy to install, and very stable. The performance from the antenna is excellent – a new-fangled antenna with an additional 1dB isn’t worth the poor mounting or additional cost. ? ### weBoost amplifier & internal antenna ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/weBoost-Drive-Reach-vs-Drive-4-GX-1024x768.jpg) I have used the weBoost line of amplifiers from Wilson for a long time. The [Drive 4G-X](https://amzn.to/2Kzb1qG?ref=seabits.com) has been the best choice for almost 5 years, but a few months ago Wilson released the [Drive Reach](https://amzn.to/2KBcuwz?ref=seabits.com), which I have been testing with good results. The Reach has over 3x the power as the 4G-X for connecting to remote towers, and double the power for the inside antenna. As a result, it has a big heat sink, and a larger power supply. I hope to have more extensive testing completed soon. I’ve also been playing around with various internal antennas to provide better coverage not only for the Peplink router, but nearby cell phones. More on this testing soon as well. ? So far, these improvements have provided a more reliable and powerful internet setup for all of the trips we’ve taken on [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), and even while at the dock. > 📡 by purchasing products I link to, you help me keep my site running, and afford to buy and test more stuff. Thanks for helping support SeaBits! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Grant Jenkins [August 17, 2019 at 11:55 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup/#comment-237) Hi Steve – so, no more Netgear LB1120? I think thats what you recommended in your last article…. I’m not sure from your diagram how the LTE signal gets from the antenna to the router – the Peplink supports 2 Sim cards, but there’s no hard-wired connection to the antenna or booster? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [August 18, 2019 at 5:26 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup/#comment-250) Hi Grant, The Peplink router is the one I always recommend for those who have the budget. The LB1120 + MikroTik hAP is the more cost effective way to do something similar, but without many of the features that the Peplink has. It also requires a lot more know-how to get the MikroTik+Netgear working and configured, where the Peplink is pretty plug and play. I still recommend that one too for those who would like that route/feature set/budget. I have found that the best way to use a weBoost amplifier is to have the inside antenna as close as possible to the factory Peplink antennas. These amplifiers are not meant to be wired directly into a router, and will damage things if connected that way. weBoost sells an in-line amplifier, but there are significant disadvantages to using that setup, which I covered in Having the weBoost inside antenna also gives you a second benefit of being able to use a cell phone nearby and have it boosted. - Grant Jenkins [August 18, 2019 at 12:55 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup/#comment-252) OK Thanks Steve – so, when you say the Peplink is pretty plug and play – does that include configuring auto fall-over from LTE to WiFi or vice versa? I gave up trying to understand how to programs scripts for my Mikrotik router and now just manually swap Ethernet cables from my Wifi source and LTE source into the WAN connector… it works, but hardly something I would brag about… [David Geller](http://eyejot.com/users/davidg?ref=seabits.com) [August 18, 2019 at 2:34 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup/#comment-251) Another great article. This time, though, I fear it’s going to cost me a ton of $$$ as I plan to upgrade what I’ve got to something just like this. My only gripe remains with the Groove. They have a great new iOS app but, for the life of me, I can’t figure out how to use it to select remote APs. And their web-based UI is ok, but still not very user friendly. Labatt s/v/ Pelican [August 30, 2019 at 10:53 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup/#comment-260) Great article! You spend a lot of time in this article and prior articles talking about antennas. I think the antenna quality and placement are more critical for WiFi (and cell) than the actual boat-side station type. I have both a Microtik Groove 52AC and a Bullet2 onboard. The Bullet2 is wired through LMR400 cable to our second spreader (maybe about 40 feet?). My Groove has the antenna directly attached and is located on the top of our bimini. I also changed out the cheap antenna on the Groove with a 9db Wifi2b9 2.4/5.8 antenna ([http://www.scan-antenna.com/product/wifi2b9](http://www.scan-antenna.com/product/wifi2b9?ref=seabits.com)) (these are available from a distributor – [http://aepsales.com/](http://aepsales.com/?ref=seabits.com) – on the east coast for < $100 - I have no relation to them - make sure to get the right mounting brackets too as these have a euro style mount). I always get a much better connection on the Groove (comparing 2.4 vs. 2.4), most likely for two reasons. First, the antenna for the Bullet2 has the LMR400 cable. While this is great cable, it has signal loss vs. being directly connected. Even with a better antenna, it will still not perform as well as a unit with a directly connected antenna. Second, the placement. Because the vertical beam width of the antenna is not as wide as the horizontal beam, the closer I am to the shore station the more likely it is to be on the fringe of my beam since my antenna is on the second spreader. This causes degradation. In addition, at times the mast gets between the antenna and the shore station, effectively blocking the signal. I originally thought that placing it high up would help (and it probably would in specific situations - on the hook, boat station directly connected to the antenna, mast not between the shore station and the boat station, etc.) but it did not. That's why, when I added, the Groove, I took lessons learned and used a direct antenna connection and also placed it in a spot that had nothing between it and a shore station. I can also say that signal strength increased a measurable amount when I replaced the stock antenna on the Groove with the Scan antenna. And I have to say that - as you say too- the Groove is definitely more complex to configure, but with the added 5.8GHz radio + the WiFi options you can usually get access to more WiFi units (including older units the Bullet no longer supports for security reasons) with better/faster connection rates and bandwidth. I also have the WeBoost DriveX unit with a Wilson antenna and LMR400 out to my bimini top. Love it. Sad to see they have a new unit as the wife won't let me spend more money on this until we spend money on other things first lol. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [August 29, 2019 at 5:15 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-internet-setup/#comment-261) These are all great points, but I think the most important one is the one you also highlight a bunch – antenna location and distance. I try to highlight this in some of my other posts, but perhaps this warrants a dedicated article just discussing the pros and cons. Many people assume the higher the better with antennas both for WiFi and LTE, and I think this mentality comes from having heard this for line-of-sight things like VHF radios. While having a WiFi antenna higher up the mast might help if you’re trying to reach a remote station, I don’t think that people do that as much anymore. It used to be 10 years ago that everyone who had internet while afloat, who wasn’t a rich mega yacht owner and had a satellite, got it via finding a WiFi source on shore, usually an open network (because so many people had those and didn’t mind!) and definitely 2.4Ghz. There were whole swaths of products including many based on the Bullet series from Ubiquiti that advocated height to get the remote signals. I’m sure it helped a bit, but you pointed out a big flaw on a sailboat which I’ve seen many times – mounting the antenna somewhere up the mast where at one point, when the boat rotates, the antenna is blocked by the mast. Amplifiers and cables are all good things to consider, but to your overall point – the location and quality of the antenna is critical. Ensuring you have a good one for WiFi and LTE, have picked an appropriate location not too far away, and use quality cabling will all result in a good signal. As for the specific antenna you have paired with the Groove – I am using the Altelix available here [https://amzn.to/2MLCKXm](https://amzn.to/2MLCKXm?ref=seabits.com) which has vastly improved the performance over the stock one, and it is dual band as well. ### Boat piano and storage URL: https://seabits.com/boat-piano-and-storage/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T00:59:07.000Z I’ve played the piano since I was 3 years old, and love playing whenever I can. On my smaller boats, I had portable keyboards and other smaller things, but on [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) I spent the time to get a full 88-key portable piano and a place to store it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0546.jpg) Yamaha P-125 piano I have had many pianos and keyboards throughout my life, but I prefer one with a reasonably piano-like keybed and action, along with realistic piano sounds. The keys and action are usually hard to get right, especially in the cheaper models. My all time favorite is my [Nord Piano 3](https://www.nordkeyboards.com/products/nord-piano-3?ref=seabits.com) which is an absolutely amazing instrument. However, at over $3000 and 40 pounds, I didn’t think it was the best instrument for the boat. I have had a lot of smaller keyboards on my sailboats, but their actions were terrible, and the limited key range really bothered me. Many of them required an iPad or computer to generate the sound, or some sort of amplified speaker system. I was looking for something simpler, easier to move around, better keys, and good sound. About a year ago, I stumbled onto the [Yamaha P-125](https://amzn.to/2JgFeKA?ref=seabits.com) which looked like a good solution. At only 26 pounds, it was meant to be portable, and billed as such in their advertising. It had a full 88 keys with a Graded Hammer Standard (GHS) keyboard action, on board Yamaha piano sounds, and built in speakers. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3040.jpg) Now, I am a bit of an audiophile, so I immediately assumed the speakers would not meet my standards, but I have been pleasantly surprised. There are two mid/high speakers on each corner, and a lower frequency speaker underneath the piano. Those three combined make for a surprisingly realistic sound production from built in speakers. They aren’t as good as a full studio monitor setup with a subwoofer, but they do just fine on the boat. I added a higher quality sustain pedal, and have piped the outputs into my on-board speakers/stereo/amplifier instead of using the built-in speakers when better sound and control are required. The piano runs off of a 12V DC wall wart, and has plenty of ins/outs/MIDI/headphone jacks. Overall, the action and keybed are really quite amazing for a \~$600 piano that only weighs 26 pounds. I grew up playing a Yamaha C7 and the action feels very familiar. The four piano samples available are pretty diverse, and actually sound pretty close to real Yamaha pianos. I have been using the really nice height adjustable glass table in my salon to play on when the mood strikes me. The table can be adjusted to the perfect height when I want to play, and the piano fits on it with about 1/2″ to spare, the newly re-upholstered couch makes for a perfect piano bench, and the speakers are just right above my head in stereo when I use the big speakers. So we have the space to play, the instrument to play, and plenty of seating for others. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3415.jpg) The other challenge was storing the piano when not in use. I had been stuffing it into a closet in my master stateroom inside a big bulky fabric case, but it wasn’t that secure, and eventually would fall out and cause some damage. I had been envisioning a bracket system to hold it in the corner, and finally had the time to put things together. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3417.jpg) I chose to use 1/2″ Star Board to make a wide band that would go around the middle of the piano while it stood up in the corner of the closet, and kept it stable there. I put a couple of door hinges on the back edge where it would hinge out away from the piano. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3419.jpg) Here’s the long piece of Star Board connected to the back wall forming the beginning piece of the band. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3421.jpg) I cut down the long piece, and also measured and cut an additional piece to form the other part of the band. I used 3″ long screws to make the 90 degree joint, and will add an angle bracket if I need more support here later. I have to mention, that I am not known for my finish work, and in fact, am pretty terrible at anything woodworking or finish related. I work mostly in Star Board, and my markings and edges tend to be pretty rough. Eventually I will come back and clean this up a bit, but don’t judge! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3413.jpg) To attach the shorter portion to the wall and keep the piano secure, I planned on using draw latches. I found a really [awesome one from Southco](https://amzn.to/2FU4KTu?ref=seabits.com) that was the perfect length and could be oriented at 90 degrees at one end, which I needed for my design. I bought two of them to ensure I had a nice secure setup. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3423.jpg) During all of this, each time I added another piece, I put the piano in, measured everything, and then also test fit things very close and snug. Measuring is great, but I wanted this to fit very custom, and I’ve found using the real thing at every step is critical to ensuring things fit well. The draw latch fit perfectly, and worked exactly as I wanted. It provided a nice amount of tension and kept the whole thing very tight. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3425.jpg) The piano fits very nicely in the band, and sits very securely. There is very little room for it to move, and no way for it to slide out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3426-1.jpg) I did leave a small amount of room around the whole band, and am adding a 1/8″ [layer of neoprene](https://amzn.to/2RX5Gvn?ref=seabits.com) everywhere it touches the piano to provide chafe and vibration protection. I’m extremely happy that I found a light, quality piano with excellent sounds and great key action to play on the boat. And now, with my simple band setup, I have a secure place to store it when underway, out of the way in a closet, and ready for the next concert night! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 1 comment deregtd@deregtd May 27, 2024 It occurred to me that you’d appreciate this project from last month: [https://www.youtube.com/shorts/3aa5G-oUHiY](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/3aa5G-oUHiY?ref=seabits.com) ### The anchor project URL: https://seabits.com/anchor-project/ Last updated: 2021-10-01T18:26:08.000Z After months and months of troubleshooting problems, changing chain and anchors, and replacing electrical components, I finally have an anchoring system that I feel very confident in. The journey to get here, though, was not quick or easy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/DSC01289.jpg) Rendezvous came with a 44 pound Bruce-style anchor which I used for the first few months. I am not directly opposed to a Bruce-style anchor, but having had Rocna anchors for the last 5+ years on two different boats, I preferred a more modern style that sets easily and holds in more conditions. In addition, I felt that a 44 pound anchor was a bit too small for a 27,000 pound dry weight boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0568.jpg) The swivel was also not to the level of quality or strength that I would want to rely on. The boat also did not have a bridle of any kind, which was odd. We intended on anchoring out as much as possible, so having reliable ground tackle all around was important. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0562.jpg) After some investigation, I decided to try a Mantus anchor this time around, and ordered the 65 pound version. It came in a rather heavy, flat box. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0567.jpg) I chose Mantus this time around as they have gotten even better reviews than the Rocna in recent years, and I always like trying something new if it can improve my safety. Assembly was pretty quick – you have to warm up the provided sticky grease substance to put on the bolts before you tighten them which was the only challenge. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0575.jpg) The anchor looked great, and I paired it with a Mantus swivel which I had on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) and loved. You can see the sheer size difference between the Bruce and Mantus above. On one hand this was great to get a heavier anchor, but little did I know there was a problem lurking. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0582.jpg) The anchor sat very securely on the bow roller and looked really good. It definitely was quite a bit larger than the Bruce it replaced. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_1319.jpg) I installed this anchor in November 2018, and we used it on several trips in the winter, including [Boat exploration, shock and a fire](https://seabits.com/boat-exploration-a-shock-and-a-fire/), [Poulsbo and Bainbridge snow adventure](https://seabits.com/poulsbo-and-bainbridge-snow-adventure/) (where we were in some pretty terrible weather/wind/waves), and [Friday Harbor round trip](https://seabits.com/friday-harbor-round-trip/). The picture above was after the snow adventure with massive waves, and being stuck in anchorages with 30-40 knot winds. In every case, the anchor set the first time, and held throughout our adventures without any issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0552.jpg) I also needed a good bridle and chain hook setup, and chose the [Mantus v2 chain hook](https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-chain-hook-landing/?ref=seabits.com). I had the v1 version on Grace and really liked it, but it had a funky way of attaching to the chain that meant it was always at an angle. This new version looked better. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/DSC02703.jpg) The v2 version looks like a buck toothed beaver, sort of, and essentially grabs onto a single link of chain that you slide into the gap between the teeth. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0566.jpg) To keep the hook from popping off, there is a rubber strap that goes across the gap and keeps things tight. Unfortunately, this has broken many times, and caused some concern about reliability. Mantus has been very helpful and sent me replacement versions, and even recently a modified strap that has chafe protection, but the long term results are not in yet. I love the way the chain hook grabs and holds the chain – I’ve never seen a more secure version, but the strap needs some improvement. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0565.jpg) Mantus v2 chain hook engaged on the chain Mantus has a bridle as well, and I had that on Grace and did not like it for a couple reasons – excessive chafe protection and length. They only have a couple of choices for the sizing of a bridle, and the size I wanted (3/4″ line) ended up with a 25′ long bridle, which is way too long to manage. They also sew in chafe protection near the eyes, which is great to provide that protection, but ends up preventing you from shortening the bridle in that section, and is really too close to the eyes. I think these bridles were meant more for permanent mooring or in parts of the world where the anchoring depths were shallower/different. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/DSC02708.jpg) I had a wonderful custom bridle made by [dbRopes](https://dbropes.com/?ref=seabits.com). I wanted 3 strand nylon, 3/4″ size, about 12′ long with a stainless steel thimble and chafe protection near where the chain hook would be. I wasn’t worried about chafe protection at the cleats, as my boat has that built in. It’s rare to still find online vendors that have excellent, personalized customer service like dbRopes. I sent a couple of emails with questions, and they responded very quickly and thoroughly. The length I wanted wasn’t available in their store, and I wanted black chafe protection. A few hours later, I got a link to my custom bridle, placed the order, and had it a week later! You can find their [whole line of anchor snubbers here](https://dbropes.com/collections/anchor-snubber/Anchor-Snubber?ref=seabits.com). The quality of the workmanship is excellent, the rope is very easy to handle and stretches an appropriate amount, and it fits my boat perfectly. It also wasn’t atrociously overpriced, and I would recommend anyone needing a bridle to check out their site. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0563.jpg) Old Bruce anchor Even with the new anchor, bridle, and chain hook, there was a problem, as I mentioned earlier. Above you can see the old Bruce anchor – notice the amount of chain you can still see between the end of the shank on the anchor, and the windlass behind it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0577.jpg) Mantus anchor chain space Here’s what that looks like with the bigger Mantus anchor. I’ve created a problem…. While retrieving the anchor about 50% of the time, because the shank on the Mantus is enormously long (31″ compared to the Bruce 20″), when the anchor pivots up onto the bow roller, it has the tendency to yank the chain up and out of the gypsy, and onto the capstan of the windlass. Now you have 65 pounds of anchor and a decent amount of chain (however deep it is) rushing out of the boat, making a terrible racket, treating the capstan badly, and generally becoming a hazard. This happened enough times that I developed a touchy way using the windlass to get the anchor aboard, but I didn’t like it at all, and obviously made a mistake in sizing the Mantus anchor. I think I might need a different anchor solution… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3181.jpg) What really pushed this project into “must fix immediately” was the windlass. Since purchasing Rendezvous, the windlass had always been finicky. You had to wait between reversing directions 10 seconds or more, and even when going the same direction, you had to pause quite a bit. On a recent trip, I couldn’t even get the windlass to work in one direction longer than about 10 seconds, and then had to wait a minute. I found out after working with Bob and Will @ Maxwell/Vetus that I had a very, very old automatic solenoid and overload protection system that they had not seen in a long while. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3210.jpg) In fact, Will recommended it be removed immediately due to previous failures many years ago. Part of what this advanced solenoid provided was “overload” protection, which I heard tripping constantly even when there was no overload condition, hence the delays and cut outs while using the windlass. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3211.jpg) It did look like a bit of moisture got into the box, but 30 years of service is pretty good. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3218.jpg) Somewhere down in the bottom of the box encased in epoxy are some electronics that deal with the overload side of things. That’s probably what stopped working reliably and caused my problems. There’s a bit of corrosion in here too, but not too bad. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/39700DD7-C9D4-4833-AFBD-B5CE9EE35CFF-19584-0000054F84EA72C9.jpg) I replaced it with a standard Maxwell reversing solenoid and was able to re-use most of the existing wiring, which is good because I have three different stations to control this from, and didn’t want it to be a wholesale replacement. Even in the first few weeks since this change, I have seen a complete turnaround in the performance and control of the windlass. The motor sounds better (I have an ear for these types of things) and I am able to exert far better control when using the windlass. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/11EFFD24-CFDE-46A0-B8DE-83B6B46EB72F.jpg) Existing Maxwell 135A master windlass circuit breaker At the same time, I took the opportunity to replace my windlass master circuit breaker. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3221.jpg) I loved the look and feel of this breaker, with the big machined aluminum plunger, but the guys at Maxwell said it would wear out at some point soon, given how long it had been in service. The throw distance for the breaker itself is pretty short, so you do have to reef on it a bit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3222.jpg) I was surprised when I removed the breaker that it was made by Texas Instruments, and was marketed as a Klixon brand breaker. I didn’t know TI did electrical components of this type. I replaced this breaker with the Maxwell updated equivalent 135A push button breaker which just so happened to fit in the same nice box/mounting hole that the old one came out of. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_1538.jpg) Part of this project included upgrading the chain length from about 195 feet to 300 and looking at higher test chain, as the existing stuff was BBB. Most of the places I wanted to anchor require a decent length rode, especially Desolation Sound and similar areas in British Columbia. I wanted to have at least 300 feet of chain so I had as many options as possible. I bought three lengths of chain from Fisheries, all 5/16″ but from different manufacturers, and different grades. I tried Acco BBB and G43, and Titan G43\. The Titan seemed to move through the gypsy the best. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3204.jpg) Maxwell stamped their gypsy’s with numbers to indicate what type of chain they can handle. Mine said 105 (hard to read in the pic above) and they confirmed it would work with 5/16″ short link windlass chain. It is definitely a good idea to check with your windlass manufacturer before switching chain, and even go as far as I did and order some test lengths. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_2969.jpg) Now begins another chapter in the anchor drama – marking the chain. Being tech-focused, I read a lot in forums about how people mark their chain, and decided to try a new approach. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_2971.jpg) Imtra makes a rubber chain marker insert in different colors, and I bought enough to mark things every 50 feet. This seems like a really good way to mark your chain, but even during testing, I saw that it was a complete failure. Several of these rubber inserts popped out. So we went out on a day trip and dropped the hook in a nearby bay. My crew on the bow couldn’t even see the colors going by, so that was a bit concerning. I went down to the anchor locker and found about half of the rubber inserts sitting in the bottom of the anchor. It was almost impossible to see the colors at any point, even when retrieving the anchor at a slower speed. Maybe on a very slow, old windlass, or when managing your rode by hand, these would work, but in general, they are not worth the money in my opinion. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3088.jpg) Enter idea #2, which involves threading a single strand of poly rope in the chain links which makes it very visible when retrieving. Many people swear by this method, and I tried a number of different sizes of poly to see how it would work. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3104.jpg) I didn’t even have to leave the dock to know this was a complete failure as well. Every time the poly got near the windlass gypsy, something jammed or popped off. No matter the size of the rope or the way I threaded it mattered – my gypsy was just too tight for this method. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3097.jpg) So after several weeks of frustrating experimentation, and annoying my dock neighbors by spewing in and out 300′ of chain to change things, I decided to go back to the rather normal method of painting the chain. Since I am red/green/other color blind, I decided to keep it simple and use two colors – one for 50′ and one for 100′ increments. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3109.jpg) Using the garbage bag/cardboard method and spraying inside the bag, shaking, and spraying again, I ended up with very visible colors that I can see clearly from the flybridge or salon, and my crew can see easily as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3106.jpg) I have also been trying to solve a problem with the chain castling or piling up under the windlass when retrieving the anchor. Of course, like many boats, my anchor locker is a strange shape and chain tends to not slide down into the deeper parts. There is plenty of room overall for 300′ of chain (or even more) but it just won’t get out of the way from underneath the windlass. I’ve tried a StarBoard structure, poles, boards, and most recently, construction cones filled with expanding foam to give them structure. Nothing seems to work that well, so every 50-75′ someone has to go down and knock down the pile. My next idea is to use Delrin or similar very slippery products to see if I can make the angled walls underneath the windlass area slippery enough to send the chain further down into the locker. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_2974.jpg) While I was improving the ground tackle at the bow of the boat, I also took the opportunity to get a stern tie setup in place. I really wanted an Ultraline Flat Rope Wheel setup that I’ve seen on many boats, but at $2000 for 300′, it seemed way overpriced and limiting in length. Instead, I purchased a [ShoreLine reel for $349](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/shoreline-reel-compact-stern-tie-lg114ol?ref=seabits.com), and added [600 feet of 3/8″ floating Samson line](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/samson-rope-mfp-float-line-461024106020?ref=seabits.com) for $240, for a total cost of $589\. Double the length for about 1/4 the price. I may end up replacing this line with something larger, but only 400′, if I find that this is too light for stern ties, but I think it will be OK, as the previous owner had a hose reel of poly line that was about this size. I also like how this is removable, and can be stowed out of the way when not in use. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3332.jpg) Even with all of these improvements, solving the anchor shank length issue was a priority. After far too much investigation, emails, and talking to vendors, I determined that the Rocna Vulcan was likely the best and only choice for my short bow roller situation. Once I identified that the 55 pound version was a great size for my boat, even more frustration was waiting for me. Fisheries tried to order it for me, but couldn’t get Rocna to get them the right size. 2 weeks of wasted time and updates were spent there. West Marine had it available for slightly more, and would ship it very quickly – I’m getting closer now to leaving on a 30 day trip and really didn’t want a brand new untested anchor without some time to spare. The first anchor was lost by UPS (how in the hell do you lose a 55 pound anchor!) and they were extremely unhelpful, as usual. Any time I ship something, I avoid UPS at all costs as their customer service and quality is the absolute bottom of the barrel. West Marine was super nice and shipped a second one, even while UPS and them were arguing about finding the lost one. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_0577-1.jpg) Mantus on the left, Rocna Vulcan on the right The first time I pulled the new Rocna Vulcan up on to the bow roller, I could see how much better it was size and shape wise. Almost no noise, smooth retrieval, and fit like a glove. It was even better than the old Bruce anchor. You can see above not only how much more chain is exposed with the Vulcan, but it is also angled down a bit so that the chain should never jump off the gypsy during retrieval again. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3339.jpg) The anchor sits very snug in the bow roller, and never gets close to the bow of the boat. That curved shank is the key – the anchor just slides up the roller quietly and quickly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/07/IMG_3340.jpg) I’ve heard from others who have used the Vulcan that it is just as good as the standard Rocna in terms of setting every time. It is a bit different design with the big bulb underneath, and the flared sides. I am very happy with how this turned out, although I wish I had just purchased this one first. I was so happy with how smooth it was, I even took a video, which you can enjoy above. Later in the season, I was diving my ROV and came across the anchor buried in the seabed. The video above shows how well it set off of Blake Island in the sandy bottom. This whole project was one of those that drags on and on. I started it in November 2018, and just finished the most critical things in June of 2019\. I’m still fussing with the anchor locker and chain castling situation, but that I do not expect to solve for a long time, if ever. However, I am glad I persisted with the project, and continued to try to find the right solution at every step. Having a reliable and safe to use ground tackle system is very important. We intend on anchoring almost exclusively when we are on trips, and being able to deploy and retrieve things safely and reliably, and know that we are safe on the hook is the reason all this work was worth it! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [David Geller](http://eyejot.com/users/davidg?ref=seabits.com) [July 5, 2019 at 4:34 am](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/#comment-270) Another awesome post. Brings back memories of my rode painting ([https://pnwboating.blog/2015/08/17/a-rode-well-traveled-marking-your-ground-tackle/](https://pnwboating.blog/2015/08/17/a-rode-well-traveled-marking-your-ground-tackle/?ref=seabits.com)). I marked off 30′ sections. This reminds me of the story about the US and NASA going to great lengths to create a writing instrument for zero gravity only to see that the Russians simply used pencils. Don’t know if it’s true, but it’s like the tags, poly-line and paint choices. I don’t own a bridle yet but plan to buy one. Thanks for your recommendation of dbRopes. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 4, 2019 at 5:47 am](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/#comment-272) Rode painting is always a challenge in some way – getting the space to do it on the boat and/or dock, not getting paint on anything but the chain (impossible), and seeing it wear off pretty quickly throughout the year. I’ve always had a bridle for my boats with all chain or mostly chain rode. Most of them have had chain stoppers, but I hate putting that type of load on a single point on the boat, and one that is not flexible at all in waves or wind. The bridle is an essential piece of kit I always add early on if there isn’t one from the previous owner (hardly any boat has had one which surprises me). Wyatt Camp [July 15, 2019 at 11:11 pm](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/#comment-259) Informative as always. We’ve been super happy with our Rocna 20\. I tried those little plastic bits as well and they’re worthless. I’ll be breaking out the rustoleum this season. We made our own snubber/bridle (included a couple of pics) and has worked well for the past four years. I’m not particularly handy, so if I can do it… Thoughts on the swivel? We don’t have one and have never missed it. Seems like a single point of failure and I’m not clear what the benefits are. Mic [April 10, 2021 at 1:41 pm](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/#comment-3488) Hi Steve, I’m planning to tweak my anchor set up soon and was reading through your great post on the topic. And I thought I’d pass on a idea for you and other readers regarding what I’ve found to be an easy, inexpensive, successful method of anchor chain marking. I have tried the spray paint on chain approach. But found that our gravely bottoms here in the PNW quickly eroded the paint, markings were hard to see and messy to apply. Now I use zip-ties. I’m sure I got this idea from someone but can’t reminder. I picked up a package of 8″ fluorescent colored zip ties at Harbor Freight. [https://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-8-inch-fluorescent-cable-tie-assortment-98727.html](https://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-8-inch-fluorescent-cable-tie-assortment-98727.html?ref=seabits.com) I tie a set on every 25 feet. They run through the gypsy without a problem, and I find that they are very visible from the cockpit. They have surprised me with how durable they are. I may lose a couple couple in the course of season, but are very quick and easy to replace as I’m out cruising. I wanted to pass it on as this has worked well for me for 10+ years. My method of marking is to use one color for every 100 feet; so 0-100′ is yellow, 125-200′ is pink, and so forth. 1 zip-tie marks 25′, 125′ and 225′, 2 for 50′, 150′ and 250, 3 for the 75’s, and 4 for the 100’s. I leave the tails on the zip-ties for visibility. Also, I was at the Deer Harbor Marina recently where they were doing refurb on some of their docks. And I scored a scrap of plastic dock grating they were throwing away. Yay-free! That’s going to be cut to fit the bottom of the anchor locker to provide better drainage and to keep the chain and rode out of the muck that builds up in the bottom. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 1:46 pm](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/#comment-3625) Sorry for not responding sooner – a bunch of comments got flagged as spam accidentally! This is excellent advice! I just switched to zip ties this year myself after having to re-paint my chain last year TWICE due to the amount of anchoring I do. The zip ties are far easier to see, and go through my gypsy as well after they’ve been run through once or twice. I decided to use a number of zip ties depending on the amount, and mark at every 50′. One zip tie at 50, 2 at 100, and so on. I can’t see colors that well, so just using white ones works well for me. Bob [June 22, 2021 at 9:29 am](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/#comment-3562) Thanks for this very informative blog posting. I recently purchased a Helmsman Trawler 38\. The previous owner had swapped out the original Bruce 44# anchor for a Mantus M1 65#, which impressed me when I first looked at the boat. But it turns out it has EXACTLY the same problem you experienced–the short distance between the end of the shank and the windlass means that the anchor often pulls the chain off the gypsy as it comes up over the bowroller. I considered various modifications to the roller to allow me to keep the Mantus, but in the end decided to go with a different anchor, and am now considering the Vulcan. My boat is similar to yours–mine is 30,000 pound dry displacement, and about 40′ LOA, and same cruising grounds. But I am considering the 73# Vulcan, rather than the 55#. Did you consider the larger size, or do you think this is overkill? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 9, 2021 at 9:29 am](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/#comment-3577) Hi Bob, I’m about 31,000 pounds fully loaded with all tanks and my junk aboard. The 55# was well within the range of that weight and boat size/length (windage) for the calculations I did, if not a bit on the top end. I’ve been out in 45 knot wind storms and not moved an inch, so I’m very happy with the choice. I think the 73# would be too much in terms of weight for my windlass to deal with, and just sheer size in the bow roller. Jamie [August 17, 2021 at 4:37 pm](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/#comment-3678) Nice blog post. I am swapping the same old Maxwell solenoid overload box you had with a their new one. I also have a remote control. In the post you said you were able to reuse most of the old wiring. What wiring needed to be replaced? Any advice on the rewiring would be appreciated. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [August 19, 2021 at 7:18 pm](https://seabits.com/anchor-project/#comment-3679) Hi Jamie, The large gauge wires coming from the battery to the solenoid, and the control wires from remote stations were the only wiring I re-used. The large gauge wires from the solenoid to the motor and all of the control wires from the solenoid to the foot switches, which are just nearby, I replaced. ### NaviSafe dinghy lights URL: https://seabits.com/navisafe-dinghy-lights/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T00:32:14.000Z Exploring via dinghy is one of my favorite things to do while on the water. One of the best times of the day to explore is right at sunset, and shortly thereafter. I’ve always had challenges finding a good solution to ensure my dinghy can be seen at night or adverse conditions until I found NaviSafe dinghy lights. I’ve never had a boat big enough to have a dinghy with integrated lights, and have resorted to handheld lights or other methods (or none at all) for navigation lights. While doing a search last year, I came across the NaviSafe product line at Fisheries Supply, and was immediately intrigued. After a bit of research I ordered their [NaviSafe Dinghy Complete package](https://amzn.to/2J4p85p?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/NaviSafe-dinghy-complete.jpg) NaviSafe Dinghy Complete package – image courtesy of NaviSafe This kit comes with two lights, mounts for both bow and stern, poles for the stern light, and a storage box. The lights are specific – one is an all around white light that would be used on the stern of the dinghy, and the other is a tri-color light which would be used on the bow. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/DSC03326.jpg) What I immediately liked about the whole setup is the mounts – they are the same hole pattern as a GoPro camera mount. This means I could stick a camera in the bow mount if I wanted some fun footage, and gives me the flexibility of using other mounts if the ones provided don’t work. Plus, it is a proven mount system – not something new that has new teething issues. There are also a bunch of other mounting options including suction cups, rail mounts, and the like. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/DSC03325.jpg) NaviSafe lights are certified 2NM visible The lights themselves are powered by 3x AAA batteries, accessible by unscrewing the clear top light assembly. They are well made, and have survived being left on the dinghy all season, as well as some bumps and impacts into various docks, boats, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/DSC03327-Edit.jpg) There are 16 LEDs in each light that are extremely bright. A nice big orange power button is on the top of the light – easy to see even at dusk. The above light is the bow / tri-color version, and you can see the plastic separators are a bit wider at those points where the light color changes. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/DSC03324-Edit.jpg) I chose to glue the bow mount onto the PVC of my dinghy. I chose a spot just below where lines are used on the bow, and far enough down that the light wouldn’t ruin my night vision while it was on. The initial sticky glue on the back of the mount was worn out from me having used it on another dinghy, and my skills at using glue and epoxy are terrible. It did not turn out pretty, but it is never coming off. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/DSC03322-Edit.jpg) Pop the light in, flip the grey lock button, adjust the level of the light, and you’re ready to go! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/DSC03320.jpg) For the stern light, I drilled holes through the aluminum transom and used stainless bolts with nylock nuts (not included). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/DSC03336-Edit.jpg) One of the genius parts of these lights is the mounting – the GoPro style mount allows you to spin the light to orient whichever way you need without moving or changing the mount. In addition, each mount has a swivel point directly under the light you can adjust to get it level with the horizon. This allows very finite adjustments and should allow you to install them on just about any boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/DSC03335-Edit.jpg) Storage box with stern light and pole I don’t generally use the storage box unless the dinghy is put away for a long while. Instead, I leave the bow light in the mount during the busy season, and the stern light I store in a bag aboard the dinghy. I don’t like leaving it installed since it is tall and can get in the way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/DSC03329-Edit-1.jpg) Both lights have different modes that you can control with the power button, which allows for even more flexibility beyond the mounting positions. Pushing the power button on the bow / tri-light for a few seconds turns it on in the default mode above – port/starboard lights facing forward, white stern light facing back. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/01/DSC03333-Edit-1024x683.jpg) If you short press the power button once it is on, you will cycle through the available options. You can see from the pictures above, this gives you a ton of flexibility depending on your boat size, shape, etc. You could use a couple of these lights for separate port/starboard lighting, which is really cool flexibility. The stern light has differing patterns of white light depending on whether you want it to be all around, a dimmer all around, or just stern facing. I’ve used these lights on two different dinghies now for a full season and a half and can say that they are well worth the investment. One set of batteries seems to last a whole season, and they are easily adjustable and controllable depending on the conditions and which lights you happen to have. They are super bright, so I recommend being careful when first turning them on if it is dark out – you will ruin your night vision. Some people have reported leaks and sun damage from leaving them out all the time, which I could see. The plastic is decent, but I am sure it would wear, just like anything else in the marine environment, pretty quickly. I remove mine when not in more constant use during the busy season. The other complaint is that they don’t float, but I think this is more from kayakers and smaller boats where getting them on/off might be a bit more of a challenge. Highly recommended for smaller dinghies that don’t have integrated lights already. > Buy the [NaviSafe Dinghy Complete package at Amazon](https://amzn.to/2J4p85p?ref=seabits.com) and help support SeaBits. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Labatt s/v/ Pelican [July 3, 2019 at 9:22 pm](https://seabits.com/navisafe-dinghy-lights/#comment-273) We’ve had these for two years and love them. They used to come with an aluminum telescoping pole instead of the plastic “assemble the pieces” pole which I liked a lot better, but we broke it (when I lost my balance and fell on it) so now have the plastic one. Def not as nice. Even though it’s not quite regs, we use a single tricolor on the stern as opposed to putting a red/green forward and a white in the stern. We’ve been stopped before (planing through the mooring field.. oops 🙂 ) and the authorities commented on how nice the lights were after admonishing us for our misdeed. We’ve also put bow and stern mounts on our rails on our big boat so we can use these as emergency backups if we lose our primary nav lights. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 3, 2019 at 5:50 am](https://seabits.com/navisafe-dinghy-lights/#comment-274) Thanks for the details on your use, and the great idea of having backup mounts so you could use them on the big boat in an emergency. Great idea! ### Managing internet usage on your boat URL: https://seabits.com/limiting-data-on-board-your-boat/ Last updated: 2022-10-31T16:37:21.000Z One of the most precious commodities while aboard is internet bandwidth, and in many cases, the overall amount used per month. [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) is no different, although I may have a few more devices than the average boater! Being able to control what uses your internet connection and **how much of it** is used is becoming more commonplace with the switch to cellular connections that have monthly limits or slowdowns. Even with a local WiFi network, you should be considering your neighbors and fellow users before letting all of your devices go crazy. ## Controlling Devices via your router Controlling what uses your network is relatively easy with most modern routers. You can be aggressive and set a MAC address filter to allow only devices you know, preventing anyone who might have had the password to your network from using it. But this has limitations, especially if you have guests aboard. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/peplink-ssids.png) A more advanced option is to setup separate networks based on what uses them. On Rendezvous, I have two WiFi networks: **Critical** – the one labeled “brig” above – one for critical items such as chart plotters, AIS units, PCs that do navigation or other boat-related things, my phone and tablet, which are used for anchor alarms and managing the devices, and anything else that falls into that critical area. **Guest** – the one labeled “brig-guest” above – I have a second network for guest users with a password that is easy to remember. This is what is given out to guests who are on board, but with a note that they aren’t going to get any faster speeds if we are near a metro area. Having these two networks clearly delineates things that are critical and non-critical, but it also gives you more security – making sure your guest devices, which you have no idea how secure they are, not be on a network with navigation and boat stuff. But to get full control, you also need to implement something called Quality of Service or Bandwidth Control… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/peplink-bandwidth-management.png) Within those networks, I assign various devices to one of three groups using QoS or Bandwidth Control. This allows me to control who can use how much, and in what conditions. I’m using a Peplink MAX Transit router above, but almost all decent routers have similar features. - **Manager**: these are things that must always work, and include the main server on board, my phone, and all of the critical navigation equipment - **Staff**: still important items like my laptop, onboard planning PC, and other boat devices that aren’t critical to navigation, but need an internet connection. This includes things like the Roku streaming TV, Sonos audio system, and other entertainment systems. - **Guest**: all guest devices and non critical items. The Manager and Staff devices can use the majority of the bandwidth, while the Guest devices have a policy setup to only allow 1Mbps download and 500Kbps upload. In addition, if the Manager or Staff devices need more bandwidth, the Guest stuff is slowed down even more. Now, admittedly, this requires a more advanced router, and the time and patience to setup. However, most home routers now even have this feature, for the same exact reasons – to protect your home private network, and to ensure things like your game consoles and streaming devices have priority on the network. I highly recommend looking into this sort of setup to prevent your critical devices from being taken offline or not having enough bandwidth because of teenagers streaming Netflix. ## Controlling Consumed Bandwidth Controlling how much devices use is a lot more complicated, and blocking traffic that is not necessary is even more difficult. I’ve found a few ways below that can help. ### Bad Traffic I classify some traffic as bad to try to let happen on a boat. Those include these items, plus many more – these are just the big ones: - **Operating system updates** – both Windows and Mac are terrible about this. They will download updates in the background if you let them, consuming huge amounts of data. Average updates to MacOS are often in the gigabyte range, while Windows can download just as much in smaller chunks. - **App updates** – both for PCs/Macs and especially mobile devices. Mobile devices can bring an LTE network to its knees, and many are setup that when you plug them in for the night to update every out-of-date and poorly coded app from their respective stores. - **Photo sync** – you’re out enjoying a beautiful anchorage or hike, and the moment your phone gets near your boat WiFi network after the exploring is done, everything seems to slow to a crawl. Welcome to photo sync to the cloud! Both Android and iOS do this, and most people want it this way (myself included) so that photos and memories are backed up, or accessible from a computer. - **File sharing** – Dropbox, iCloud Drive and many others are notorious for using copious quantities of data when you add/remove files, and if you have multiple devices, like I do, all connected to the same account. I use Dropbox to save files somewhere that I don’t want to lose, and use it while on the boat, but I choose the files carefully, and I make sure only one computer is uploading, and the rest of my devices aren’t downloading the same copy. - **Backups** – wonderful tools like Backblaze are great to keep your computer safely backed up, but they are murder on metered connections. I turn them completely off while on the boat, and back up to a local hard drive. For most of the above, you can disable the feature or app, if you remember, and it will help. Guests are another thing – many of them won’t remember, and you’ll have to remind them. Some devices have features, which I go through below, that might help. ### Controlling traffic on Android phones and tablets More modern versions of Android have settings which allow you to set a Network Restriction flag on particular WiFi networks, which is highly useful on a boat. This allows you to tag your boat WiFi network so that when your phone or device is connected, it won’t completely suck up all the bandwidth, and will wait to do things such as photo replication, software updates, and app updates until it is on a better network. In some cases, you’ll actually get a prompt when something needs to a big transfer, and you can make your choice then. Here’s how to enable it: 1. Go into Settings 2. Go to Data Usage 3. Go to WiFi data usage (it may be labeled slightly differently depending on your manufacturer) 4. Tap Network restrictions (could also be next to the WiFi data usage option on some manufacturers) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Android-wifi-networks-restrictions-2.jpg) You’ll see a list of WiFi networks, and a toggle to turn on those that you want to limit bandwidth on. Apps **should** tell you when they are going to do something big, and the Android operating system also reduces what it does in the background. For older versions of Android, [see this article at How To Geek](https://www.howtogeek.com/293776/how-to-restrict-background-data-for-metered-wi-fi-networks-on-android/?ref=seabits.com). ### Controlling traffic on Windows 10 Just like Android above, you can set a WiFi network in Windows 10 to be a “metered” network so that it does not download things like crazy. This means things like Windows Updates will not occur, unless they are super critical security patches. To get to this setting, click on your WiFi network in the tool bar, and then properties. Scroll down to Metered connection. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/Windows-10-WiFi-metered-connection.png) Turn on metered connection for a particular WiFi network You can also set data limits for the network so that once it reaches a total amount of data, it will slow down/stop. I find setting this on the router to be a better approach as you’ll almost always have multiple devices that are consuming bandwidth, and Windows won’t see the rest of the devices, making this setting rather useless. While the Metered network setting attempts to slow down the amount of data used, programs and apps running on Windows 10 must support it. I’ve seen a very popular navigation application completely ignore this time and time again, and update hundreds of maps, completely overwhelming my network connection. ### Monitoring traffic on Windows 10 Task manager is a great tool to find out why your fans are running, or why your PC is slow, but you can also use it to see ongoing network traffic. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/win-10-performance.png) Task Manager Performance tab The easiest one to see if your Windows machine is going crazy is the Performance tab in Task Manager. Here you can see CPU, memory, disk but also the individual network adapters. In my case above, the WiFi network is the one connected to the internet, and we can see a decent amount of traffic coming and going. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/win-10-processes.png) Task Manager Processes tab You can also see how much each app is using on the network on the Processes tab. Just click on the “Network” tab to sort by that one instead of the default of CPU. In this case, my antivirus is using a decent amount of bandwidth, and TimeZero is as well, although the latter is likely out my ethernet link to the Furuno equipment, and not internet based. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/App-history-data-usage-windows-10.png) Task Manager App History The final spot in Task Manager is App history, and will show how much data has been used per app on various networks, including normal network (the Network column) and Metered networks. This is more useful over longer periods of time, and not necessarily to troubleshoot a real time issue. ### Controlling traffic on MacOS X While Mac does not natively have a way to control what is going in and out of its network, there are a few tools out there that actually work better than the Windows 10 implementation, as they are system-wide. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/TripMode.png) The one I use the most is called [TripMode](https://www.tripmode.ch/?ref=seabits.com), and allows you to flag particular WiFi networks AND applications that you want to allow. This allows for very granular control that could be completely different on every network, depending on what you’re doing. It is very easy to use – just turn it on when you’re on the particular WiFi network, and a list of programs trying to access the Internet will start showing up. Put a check box next to the ones you want to enable, and you’re done. I also routinely will allow a particular app through that I wouldn’t normally because I need to use it, and then shut it off again. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/TripMode-bandwidth.png) TripMode profiles You can get pretty sophisticated with TripMode’s preferences, including overall data blocking policies, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/TripMode-schedule.png) TripMode scheduling You can even set schedules for when the application meters traffic, which can be useful if you want your computer to do updates and other things at night when everyone is asleep. You can get similar applications for Windows 10, but I generally just use the built in one, and don’t use tons of apps. ### Monitoring traffic on MacOSX Another way to see what is happening on the Mac are tools like [iStats Menus from Bjango](https://bjango.com/mac/istatmenus/?ref=seabits.com), which allow you to see traffic real-time coming and going from the system. It can even show you the particular app that is generating the top amounts of traffic so you can make smarter decisions. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/iStats.png) I’ve used this app for years on the Mac as a way to keep an eye on the network, CPU, and many other aspects. On a boat, though, it is great to see quickly if your computer is the cause of why the connection is slow, just with a click on a tool bar icon. ### Controlling traffic on iOS As of iOS version 13, there is a "Low Data" feature that you can use to help use less data while on cellular or other boat networks - I wrote a specific article on using this below" [Low Data Mode helps boat WiFi use in iOS 13As of iOS 13, there is a Low Data mode for WiFi! For many years, you’ve been able to limit cellular bandwidth usage, but iOS has not had a way to control the same thing for a WiFi network, until now.![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/size/w256h256/2021/10/SeaBits-icon.png)SeaBitsSteve Mitchell![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/10/iOS-13-Low-Data-Mode-cover-1.png)](https://seabits.com/low-data-mode-helps-boat-wifi-use-in-ios-13/) ### Router bandwidth monitoring The best place, in my opinion, to control all of your traffic is at your router. I showed you earlier how you can put QoS and Bandwidth Control settings in place on a Peplink router. Most all modern routers have some sort of control which I would recommend investigating. Even if you prioritize one or two devices, like your phone or iPad that you use for navigation, you’ll end up with a smoother solution overall. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/Peplink-bandwidth-monitor.png) Peplink LTE bandwidth monitor Most LTE routers also have ways of dealing with capped data plans. Peplink allows you to choose what happens when you hit that limit – disconnect outright, or at least allow basic management traffic, but nothing else. This is a fantastic feature if you are on a data plan that slows down after a point, or even better if you have a hard limit where you get charged for overages. > If you use bandwidth limits in your router, or any device, make sure to set the limit to at least 1GB **less** than your overall plan limit. Many of these calculators are inaccurate, and do not account for overhead, etc. which the carrier will still take out of your overall total. This is especially important if you get billed for overage charges. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/06/Peplink-monthly.png) Peplink monthly summary LTE-enabled routers have come a long way in the last few years, and being able to have visibility into your monthly data usage, control what happens when you get close, and generally manage your plans is even easier than it has been. Monthly reports can also give you a better average in case you need to adjust your plan, or get more data for a longer trip. ## Wrap up It might seem strange for someone who writes so often about internet aboard to suggest that you need to restrict or control devices on board. With the re-introduction of “unlimited” plans in the last couple of years, you would think this wouldn’t be an issue. Unfortunately, those plans aren’t truly unlimited and at some point, you will be slowed down or even cut off. There are also plenty of horror stories after a long trip of getting a huge bill because of overage charges. Even without monthly limits, slowing down the consumption of your entire internet pipe is a good thing, because it lets more devices all participate. On today’s boats, we are all hungry for an internet connection, especially when you’re far away from the city – we all want to post those Instagram photos to make everyone else jealous! I hope some of these tips help you stay connected and happy on the water! ### Final project push before summer trips URL: https://seabits.com/final-project-push-before-summer/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T18:21:56.000Z I have been in the design phase of a number of projects which are about to kick in to high gear. I would normally do most of these in the winter, but because of when we bought Rendezvous, plus trips out and about, the timing has fallen to May/June to complete them. Here’s a sneak peek at what I’m working on: ## LiFePO4 power upgrade Similar to the [LiFePO4 project I did last year on Grace](https://seabits.com/installing-and-using-a-victron-lifepo4-energy-system/), this is the biggest project on the list and involves replacing the house battery bank, alternators, inverter, and a bunch of wiring. The current house bank is undersized for my use case, and is 6V flooded golf cart batteries, which require a moderate amount of maintenance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/Rendezvous-Electrical-System.png) Draft diagram of new system with no line management I’m replacing them with LiFePO4 batteries, adding a Victron MultiPlus 3000W inverter along with a Color Control GX display, and BMV-712 battery monitor. The LiFePO4 batteries will give me 30-40% more capacity, and of course will recharge much faster. The Victron pieces will allow far more visibility into power usage, and allow remote monitoring as well. I’m changing how the AC wiring is routed with the Victron MultiPlus to the same configuration I had on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/). Instead of the inverter being a 20 amp circuit hung off of the AC panel, I am routing all AC power both from the generator and shore to the inverter. I will be using two AC outputs from the inverter, one for always on/inverted loads, and one for items that only are energized with shore/generator power. I also will be adding a bypass in the event the inverter completely fails. This allows me to see how much AC power I am using from a central point and use features like Power Assist which can take battery capacity/power and use it to augment my smaller 30 amp shore power connection when I am at the dock. Right now, I have to manually manage this which results in tripped shore-side breakers pretty often. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/XT-SF-170-DV.png) Balmar XT-170 alternator courtesy of Balmar.net On top of the battery and inverter change, I am also changing out the two alternators on the engines to the newer Balmar XT 170, adding MC-614 external regulators and upgrading the wiring. Both alternators will be charging the house bank only, and will be protected by Sterling Power’s Alternator Protection Device. To charge my start and generator banks, I will be adding two Sterling DC-to-DC battery chargers which will get their DC source from the house bank. This configuration should allow the alternators to charge the house bank the most efficient way without having relays, ACRs, combiners, etc. while also keeping the other banks topped off. ## Diesel heater replacement Two weeks ago, my 22 year old Webasto Air Top 5000 started seriously flaking out. It had been making weird fan noises for most of the winter, but I chalked that up to being wired incorrectly. I fixed that wiring a month or so ago, but the noises continued. Then a week ago, it completely failed. After taking it to Sure Marine Service to have it looked at, it turned out it needed over $1000 of repairs, when a new Air Top 55 unit, along with the Sure Wire board, which I did not have, was about $2700\. I opted for a new unit, and installed it a few days ago. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2627.jpg) Webasto Air Top 55 with Sure Wire board Not only is it quieter, but it is more powerful, and I now have the ability to keep track of hours, and manage priming and other things with the Sure Wire board. ## Blue Guard bilge sensors and gateway ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2475.jpg) Ben at Panbo did a [recent post on Blue Guard’s new IoT gateway and sensors](https://www.panbo.com/blue-guard-innovations-bg-link-installed-and-testing-begins/?ref=seabits.com), and I plan on a post as well here in the next few weeks after a bit more time on the water with their products. So far I am extremely impressed and very excited about the visibility their product provides, and their design philosophy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/2019-05-08_10-09-09.png) Bilge pump details in Blue Guard’s BG-Link product Being able to see how many times your bilge pump has run, the duration, and many other details including current consumption, temperature, etc. is very helpful, especially when you can access it both on the boat, and remotely, and get alerts when things are outside criteria you define. ## Stereo upgrade ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2709.jpg) Rendezvous came with a 1990’s era stereo, which I replaced with a Fusion AV-650 that I had in storage. However, the speakers were also 1990’s era, and there were none outside or on the flybridge. Phase 1 of this project is adding two [Fusion panel speakers](https://amzn.to/2Ycsx87?ref=seabits.com) (which are amazing speakers in their own right) to the arch in the flybridge, and a self powered subwoofer nearby. Phase 2 will involve interior speakers and a subwoofer, and likely an amplifier and new head unit. For now we’re using a wonderful Sonos system, but I would like something that doesn’t run off of AC power, isn’t quite as bulky, and can be synched with the flybridge music. ## Fire alarm system ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/53-preheater-failure-panel-dark-768x1024.jpg) After our [adventure this winter in which the pre-heater melted down](https://seabits.com/boat-exploration-a-shock-and-a-fire/), I wanted to provide some better early warning for smoke and fire in the engine room. Combined with the Blue Guard sensors, I am installing Aqualarm heat and smoke sensors along with a control and warning panel. The Blue Guard sensor will allow for remote monitoring and alarms as well. ## Depth/speed/temp sensor My existing depth/speed sensor has been wildly inaccurate since day 1\. It also was part of the older Furuno RD-30 display system, and had two different transducers – one each for speed and depth. Thankfully they are more modern and adhere to the standard Airmar size, so I am replacing one of them with a new DST800 which has depth, speed, and temperature. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2658.jpg) Existing Furuno/Airmar sensors Once this is installed and working well, I will likely replace the second half of the old sensor suite with either another DST800 for redundancy, or the [new UDST800 ultrasonic sensor if they figure out how to calibrate it reliably](https://www.panbo.com/airmar-2018-part-2-ultrasonic-and-em-speedo-mysteries-unraveled-plus-new-udst800/?ref=seabits.com). ## Outdoor furniture – table + chairs ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2530.jpg) We’ve been working on this one a while, and have the table and benches on board, along with (way too many) pillows. The table has been an absolute hit with the first few larger groups we’ve had on board, and we’re refining how we store it, move it around, and configure it depending on whether we’re underway or at anchor. For now we are using our existing portable chairs to augment seating, but eventually we would like some nicer ones along with some outdoor storage for various things (including the bazillion pillows). ## Wipers Rendezvous has no windshield wipers or working motors on the lower windows, which always get wet even on warm days with moderate waves. I’ve been working with local Ocean Alexander experts as well as AM Equipment in Oregon to scope out replacement motors, wiper arms, and other related pieces. Unfortunately the only way to get to the existing motors is to cut access holes in the headliner in two areas, but it needs to be done. ## Anchor chain ![Instagram: www.instagram.com/davidboca/](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1526735780613-754b3e1fcaf9?ixlib=rb-1.2.1&q=80&fm=jpg&crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&w=1080&fit=max&ixid=eyJhcHBfaWQiOjExNzczfQ) Photo by [David Boca](https://unsplash.com/@davidboca?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) I upgraded my anchor in the first weeks of owning Rendezvous to a Mantus, paired with their swivel, and more recently their V2 chain hook. However, the chain is not in the greatest condition, and I only have about 180 feet aboard. I will be upgrading this to 300 feet of [Titan grade 43 chain](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/martyr-grade-43-high-test-windlass-chain-10315749?uom=0&qty=300&ref=seabits.com). This will give me the necessary scope for some of the deeper anchorages we plan on visiting later this year in Desolation Sound, while increasing the strength of the chain from the BBB we currently have on board. ## Blinds / couches / interior So much work has been going on inside, and will get its own post here very soon. All of the curtains in the salon are being removed and replaced with day/night blinds. Several other locations are getting new blinds where there were no window coverings. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2689.jpg) A sneak peek at our new couch cushions and upholstery Our new couch and dinette cushions just arrived, which will make a huge difference in updating the interior. One of the old ones was damaged in survey and never looked quite right after repair. I love the new back herringbone pattern. Tons of other updates have happened in the interior – new carpet/rugs, furnishings, pillows, accents, colors, and more, and a bit more is underway. ## LED port/starboard lights A few months ago I [finished replacing all of the lights on board with LED](https://seabits.com/new-lighting-everywhere/), including new bulbs for existing port/starboard navigation lights. The rest of my navigation lights I [upgraded to dedicated LED fixtures](https://seabits.com/seaview-more-than-mounts/), but the starboard and port lights I re-used and just replaced the bulbs. Unfortunately those bulbs have failed twice now, most likely due to voltage spikes/sags during various times (windlass in particular) and have reduced my confidence in many after market LED navigation bulbs and their ability to operate correctly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2682.jpg) To keep things consistent, I’m installing two new Aqua Signal Series 44 port and starboard lights that match the steaming and stern light I added, and this should be the last time I have to deal with nav lights. ## Fans everywhere There are no fans, nor for that matter air conditioning, in any of the cabins on the boat. There are two very ineffective “defrost” fans near the salon front windows which are amazingly loud, but produce little air movement. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2686.jpg) Two will go in the flybridge, which we have already determined gets very warm with the black canvas and mostly closed windows. Two will go into the salon, two in the master cabin, and one will go into the guest v-berth cabin. ## Water pump and accumulator The current water pump is a FloJet model with around 3GPH capability. The piping to and from it is a nightmare, having been modified to remove a failed Groco accumulator tank which was removed. Much of the piping has joints and connections that have slow leaks, including one side of the pump. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2705.jpg) I also hate the delay in pressure when turning on any tap throughout the boat, and based on the number of taps, I think the current pump is undersized. Instead, I will be adding a 4GPH pump with accumulator. ## Dinghy management – cleats and bumper The swim step on Rendezvous is nice and spacious compared to many boats, but it is also very high off the water, even when all of her tanks are full. As a result, the dinghy can slide under it and either get stuck, or incur some damage from the bits underneath. In addition, there is not a single cleat or object to tie off to when the dinghy is in the water. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2712.jpg) I’m adding two pop-up cleats to help with the latter problem, and after hours of research and forum posts, an interesting L-shaped fender from Harken to try to keep the dinghy off the swim step and from sliding underneath. ## Dingy anchor and accessories ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2676.jpg) Our beautiful Highfield dinghy and paired Evinrude 15HP EFI motor came with the bare minimum. No anchor, anchor buddy, ropes, seat cushions, or any other comforts. I’m still searching for someone who can sell me the Highfield seat cushions with integrated storage… I added a Mantus dinghy anchor and line, anchor buddy, handheld depth gauge, and a few other odds and ends. This should really help on our planned summer trips while out and about on the dinghy. ## Water tank monitor ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2706.jpg) I [added a Maretron TLM to monitor my diesel tank a few months ago](https://seabits.com/diesel-tank-monitoring-with-maretron-tl/), but need one for the water tank as well. We’ve run this out several times, even with a watermaker, when I wasn’t checking it several times a day. Running NMEA 2000 to the water tank is trivial since the diesel tank is literally 3″ away and already has a sensor. The bigger challenge is cutting a hole for the sensor, as there are no inspection ports or other openings I can co-opt. ## New BBQ and mounting system The existing round Magma BBQ is one of the smaller ones, and is inadequate for 4 people on a normal trip. Add a few more people, and the grilling surface is just not big enough to keep up with demand. Additionally, it looks like all of the innards are in need of replacing, the piezo lighter doesn’t work, etc. I also was not a fan of where it was mounted – on the sun deck stern rail, over the cockpit floor where we generally store the gas cans for the dinghy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/IMG_2678.jpg) We had nice Perko pole mounts in the cockpit on the stern rails, so I had Magma make a longer universal Perko mount, and mounted a new Newport II infrared grill on it. The location should be safer and a bit more removed, and the grill is much larger and better for the type of cooking we do. ## Spares ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/05/57628531485__CFBAB72E-697E-4223-8580-33CBDF49F9AC.jpg) I have a full inventory of all spares for the boat, and am augmenting some of that, specifically around the water maker (there are no spares, have to research that) and some other necessary areas. Overall, the boat came with a good amount of spares covering all of the critical systems, but I don’t want to be stuck without having critical supplies. ## Can I complete this all? Anyone who knows me understands how much I love working on boat projects, and all of the above qualify as some of the more “fun” ones in my eyes. I am hoping I can complete everything above, combined with a list of many other small things, in May so that I can settle down into enjoying the boat for the rest of the summer. The biggest challenge will be the LiFePO4 project as it will require at least 2 weeks of hard work to get things back to usable before the boat can move again. Everything else can happen asynchronously with the boat being out on the water. What I am very happy about is all of the improvements in comfort, safety and usability all of these projects will provide! ### Friday Harbor round trip URL: https://seabits.com/friday-harbor-round-trip/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T18:22:52.000Z After working on lots of [projects](https://seabits.com/tag/projects/) this winter on [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), I was itching to get out on the water and test all of them on a longer journey. I was delighted at the opportunity to accompany a friend and her boat up to Friday Harbor for the season, and the trip was wonderful! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/TripRoute.png) Our trip route, as recorded by Floathub I had the chance to test out a newer feature from [Floathub](http://floathub.com/?ref=seabits.com) that tracks your trips and creates a nice summary. The screen shot above shows our entire trip on a map, but the feature allows for a lot more data visualization and information. I hope to write a bit more about it soon, but the map is very useful to help remind you of your journey. ## Seattle to Port Ludlow The plan was to meet up with Sea Bear, an Angel 62′ that I spent last year [flotilla-ing with on my Princess Louisa Inlet trip](https://seabits.com/tag/princess-louisa-inlet/), near the Shilshole entrance buoys. They were coming out of Lake Union and through the locks for the trip up north to Friday Harbor, where the boat is kept for most of the summer. We expected them to take a while to get from South Lake Union all the way through the locks, and got a leisurely start to our day, getting over to the fuel dock around 10AM. I got a message that Sea Bear was already through the locks, dropping extra crew off at Shilshole, and about to head north, so we finished fueling, and got out of the marina quick-like. We sped up to 15 knots (not the most economical fuel-wise) and made it from Elliott Bay Marina to just north of Shilshole in about 25 minutes. Slowing up to 11 knots, we eventually caught up to Sea Bear on our way to Port Ludlow. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/YDVR-Excel.png) Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder data summarized in Excel I still use the [Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder](https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/) all the time, and especially on trips. This time around, I was interested in tracking fuel usage data and running the boat at various RPMs to see what changed. I wrote down a bunch of things, and took pictures of gauges at various times, when all I really needed to do was export all of the data when I got home. The spreadsheet above shows the first day of our trip, when I was going various random speeds, and the averages and maximums for a number of parameters I was interested in. Looks like I averaged 1500 RPM, with a max of 2200 RPM, and an average SOG of almost 11 knots. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/1-flybridge-driving-station.jpg) This was my first time to use the updated flybridge electronics setup on a longer trip. We arrived at Port Ludlow around 1PM, anchored in a wide open field, and proceeded to explore in our dinghies. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/1-ludlow-dinghy.jpg) Cruising around Ludlow in our dinghy – picture courtesy [Steven Roberts](https://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) We explored around the bay and even deeper inward around some small islands, saw some seals playing, and enjoyed the 65 degree temperatures, in March! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/1-appetizers.jpg) We invited Holly, Sea Bear’s captain, and her crew [Steve Roberts](https://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) over for dinner. It was the first real fancy dinner we had ever prepared on Rendezvous, and it was perfect! Plenty of sun, food, and good conversation. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/1-martini-glass.jpg) Jake was my crew for this trip, and he gave me a wonderful bar set for a boat warming present a few months ago. With it was some very creative olive holders for martinis – everyone loved them! ## Port Ludlow to Friday Harbor ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/IMG_1899-1-1024x851.jpg) We got started early on Saturday morning, around 7AM, and headed north from Port Ludlow. It was another beautiful day, if a little cold. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/2-heading-north-morning.jpg) Underway early from Port Ludlow – photo courtesy of Jake Vaule I couldn’t drive from the flybridge because of the amount of mist on the windows, and I was OK with that, since it was much warmer below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/2-salon-driving-station.jpg) Salon driving station After having been told by many others that I would not drive from this location, I am glad I invested some time and thought into making it usable. If we’re bow-up going faster than 12 knots, it does become very hard to see anything useful, but at anything less, it is completely usable. I’m also enjoying my 5th wedding anniversary present from my husband – a wonderful blue bar chair that fits perfectly and is the right height for driving. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/2-near-point.jpg) Near Fort Flagler and Marrowstone Point, the flybridge warmed up enough to get rid of the mist, and we moved upstairs. One thing I noticed throughout the entire trip is that the black canvas covered flybridge gets much warmer than I would have expected. For this time of the year, that’s OK, but in the summer, we’re going to have to be creative with opening panels to let breezes through, or maybe even something more intensive. Another reason that driving from the salon was nice – out of the shade, and cross-breezes. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/2-radar-adjustments.jpg) Around this time, we came upon the Pt. Townsend to Keystone ferry crossing, and I noticed something that I asked Furuno support about, and had been watching for a while. You can see the WSF Kennewick AIS icon (top blue triangle) and the DRS4D-NXT radar ARPA target right below it. Everything is showing up this way, with the ARPA target offset a similar distance no matter what the vessel orientation is. Since this vessel is broadcasting on AIS class A (frequent updates) and moving fast (which means even more frequent updates) and there were very little other vessels, I assume that there is something not setup right with the radar. AIS can be off a bit, but for the ARPA target and AIS to be off this same amount for everyone is odd. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/2-furuno-gauges.jpg) Furuno NavPilot 300 and FI-70 instruments The [Furuno NavPilot 300](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) worked flawlessly this entire trip, and was using a course I first planned on my Surface Book using TimeZero Professional, and then synched to the TZT2 MFDs in the flybridge. I made some on-the-fly changes for a few waypoints, but overall, I let the NavPilot drive most of the time. The real improvement was the Furuno FI-70 display, seen on the right above. Combined with the [Actisense EMU-1 engine monitor](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/), this single display shows me everything I need to know about both engines in one compact location. The throttles and gear levels obscure the existing analog gauges at this location, and I found out on this trip, several of them are off by quite a bit, especially the starboard engine tachometer. Now I have the engines running closer to eachother RPM-wise and things sound better and feel better. I will likely pull out the analog gauges after this season, and hide them inside the flybridge, as I know that disconnecting them outright could cause problems with the senders. That could leave a decent amount of real estate for new displays and instruments. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/2-crossing-strait-sea-bear-1.jpg) Leaving Point Wilson with Sea Bear astern Soon we were crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca in perfect conditions – hardly any waves or wind, and beautiful sunny skies. Sea Bear had an engine throttle cable disconnect about mid-way across, and we slowed down for a bit, but it was easily fixed. Soon we were in the islands nearing Friday Harbor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/2-entering-friday-harbor-fast.jpg) Rendezvous at 12 knots After running for 5 hours at about 9 knots, I kicked our speed up to about 13 knots and was rewarded with a nice cloud of dark smoke – the engines definitely prefer running a bit higher, enough for the turbos to actually register some boost. From what I’ve learned about these engines, running them at 9 knots is OK as long as you run it for a few minutes at the end of the day a bit faster. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/2-at-anchor-friday-harbor-1.jpg) Rendezvous anchored in Friday Harbor We had originally planned on grabbing a space on the Port of Friday Harbor breakwater, but both primary anchorages were virtually empty. Jake and I explored around closer to the ferry terminal and didn’t really find a spot we liked, so I scooted over near the University of Washington Labs area, and we anchored in about 20 feet of water. Only two other boats were nearby and both looked like they had been there for a while. It was a beautiful spot with wonderful views, a waterfall in the interior of the cove that we could hear happily bubbling away, and very little waves. We had a nice dinner of Steve’s famous fish tacos aboard Sea Bear that evening, and prepared to depart the next day. ## Friday Harbor to Hope Island ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-fog-friday-harbor-ferry.jpg) WSF Tillikum arriving in Friday Harbor – photo courtesy Jake Vaule We departed Friday Harbor around 10:30AM, waiting for the fog to dissipate, which is common this time of year in the San Juans, and the right time to get to Deception Pass. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-lopez-sound-fast.jpg) Our course today was up through the Wasp Islands, between Shaw and Orcas Islands, and down through Lopez Sound, which I had never been through. We were trying a few different RPMs and speeds to see how things worked out fuel-wise. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-mountains-lopez-sound.jpg) Mt. Baker from Lopez Pass Beautiful views everywhere, and when we made the hairpin turn into Lopez Pass, the mountains were out in great style. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-fog-rosario-3.jpg) Fog in Rosario As I guessed, there was a band of fog out in the middle of Rosario. With the new radar and other electronics, I wasn’t too concerned, although we did get pretty close to another recreational boater heading north, and ended up doing some large course changes to signal intentions. Both of us had each other on AIS. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-fog-deception.jpg) Deception Pass bridge in the fog After waiting in thick fog near Deception Pass, we started creeping forward about 20 minutes prior to slack water. Soon, the bridge appeared out of the fog – Jake was on the bow listening for anything in the water, and also enjoying the view. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-deception-bridge-behind.jpg) The rest of the pass was uneventful – a couple of other boats passed heading out into Rosario and the thick fog that still remained. We did get a few people who were on the bridge waving at us as we emerged from the fog and went under the bridge. The fog coming through the pass and under the bridge was pretty mesmerizing. The video shows it a bit, although cameras never do fog justice. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-hope-island-mooring.jpg) Rendezvous on a Hope Island mooring ball My plan was to anchor near Hope Island, which is only a couple miles in from Deception Pass, but we noticed several mooring balls available, and decided to try our hand at grabbing one, which we have not done on this boat before. I also had thought that many of the Washington State Park mooring balls were too small for our boat. It turns out these particular ones were ok for boats up to 45′, and since we were in very calm conditions, I wasn’t worried that we were close to that limit. I don’t think I will use them in current-prone areas like Blake Island, or in more active weather, though. Jake grabbed the buoy on the first try, and I came down to help thread the line up to the bow. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-hope-island-close.jpg) This particular mooring was quite close to shore, and afforded a great view of the island. We saw all sorts of birds come and go from the shoreline, trees, and elsewhere. It was still pretty warm for March (60F) and we enjoyed some time on the deck in the sun, and generally just relaxing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-hope-beach.jpg) After a while, we decided to dinghy in to shore and pay for the mooring, as well as explore a bit. The beaches were fantastic, with a bit of sand and small shells instead of the usual Puget Sound boulders. It didn’t look like many people were paying for moorage, since the pay station was pretty trashed. I hadn’t purchased a Washington State Marine Park pass this year, as I expected to anchor most of the time, but we still left payment, as we like to support these fantastic resources. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-hope-rocks.jpg) We walked around a bit, looked for the trail to the other side of the island, but didn’t really find it. Instead, we dinghied around the island to the south side, and explored the wonderful rocks and beaches for a while. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-drinks.jpg) I was still fighting a cold that I had for over 2 weeks, and finally decided that whiskey may help. Jake had brought, of all things, Fanta, which I hadn’t had in years. He made a Jameson Caskmakes + Fanta + soda water concoction, and I gladly tested it out for him. I still had the cold the next morning, and perhaps a bit of a hangover, but I sure enjoyed the evening! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/3-hope-sunset.jpg) The sunset was spectacular, just like the last 3 nights. We were very, very lucky to have this many days in March with such settled and warm weather. ## Hope Island to Seattle ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/4-heading-south.jpg) Leaving Hope Island We left Hope Island around noon, expecting about a 5 hour run from here to Seattle. The wind was due to pick up from 2-4PM in Elliott Bay, as usual in the summer, even though we were still in March, and I wanted to arrive close to sunset so I could avoid dealing with gusty winds in the marina. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/4-birds-on-red-6.jpg) The water was even flatter here than it had been in the last 3 days, and we enjoyed some porpoises jumping our wake, and cormorants fighting for a good spot on the various buoys as we transited down Saratoga Passage. Right before Oak Harbor, Jake spied a whale about 1/2 mile away, and we slowed and watched it surface a couple of times, and then disappear. I saw the day after that a grey whale was sighted there and assumed that is what we saw. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/4-flat-water-skagit.jpg) We passed a couple of boats heading south, and only one heading north. It was originally forecast to rain, but we clearly were getting the best weather on this trip. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/4-wake-mountains-best.jpg) On the way back, I set up a number of tests to figure out fuel burn. I used the [ultrasonic diesel tank monitor I had installed a while ago](https://seabits.com/diesel-tank-monitoring-with-maretron-tl/), brought the boat to as close to a stop as possible with no waves, took a reading, and then proceeded to drive at a particular RPM for an hour, varying the speeds with each test. I also used the data from the [Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder](https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/) I mentioned earlier in the article. I can’t say I have definitive data about fuel burn – some of the runs I did twice over the trip, in similar flat water with as little current as possible, and got wildly varying amounts. What I can say is that it appears the boat burns about 5 gallons per hour at 9-9.5 knots with both engines running and the generator at moderate to full load. Bumping it up to 12 knots burns 9 gallons per hour, which is where the previous owner ran the boat a lot. I’m happy with both of those numbers, and for some of the bigger trips I have planned later this year, the 5 GPH / 9.5 knot number will work out with other boats I’m traveling with. I’ve also confirmed with two other owners of nearly identical boats that these numbers seem realistic. At 15-16 knots, some of the numbers ranged from 20-30 GPH which is…not optimal, and I am not 100% sure of the data. I am very sure that running at that speed is not economical, and never thought it would be, but it is interesting to try. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/4-mountains-close-up.jpg) The mountains continued to impress with their views and the clouds got in on the show as well. We entered Elliott Bay with steady winds out of the north at 20 knots, gusting higher. As a test, I drove through the marina fairway near our slip, and it was gusting to 20 knots even in there, which was unusual. Rather than try to dock the boat in that, I decided to go do a run along the Seattle waterfront. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/4-new-f5-tower.jpg) Seattle skyline My company is moving to a new high-rise tower in a few months, and I was able to get a great photo of it while we were tooling around in the harbor. It is the new-looking glass-shard type building to the left of the Columbia Tower. After about an hour or so of motoring around, the wind was just not letting up. I was a bit nervous, but I am starting to learn more about Rendezvous windage, and applying my years of sailing experience. After motoring straight down the fairway past our slip, I did a pivot turn, let the wind blow me down the fairway in line with the slip and scooted right in. Elliott Bay Marina’s fairways are notoriously narrow – I am 46′ LOA and I believe the fairway is 50′. But I was very happy with our slick docking, and the new camera helped a ton to see the dock as I got in the slip. My neighbor even commented on how easy I made it look! ## Things to Tweak **Salon driving station** – I drove from this station a bit more than I expected to. I am glad I invested in some instrument upgrades here, but I think I may put a single bigger display here – either another TZT2 MFD or a touch screen connected to the Surface Book. I’m also considering removing all of the analog gauges and mounting my instruments in the leftover cavity – there is a ton of space there, although not terribly deep. I think I will sit on this decision for a year and see how the [Actisense EMU-1](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/) data works out. **Fuel burn** – I tried to use my new ultrasonic diesel tank monitor to calculate some measure of fuel burn during the trip, but it wasn’t very exact. I would like some way of knowing real-time information, but also understanding the best places to run the boat for fuel economy vs. speed. I have looked into installing a Maretron system, which I had on a previous boat, and may do that later this year. **Voltage issues with Furuno TZT2 MFDs** – I had noticed an issue a few weeks ago while testing new chain types in my windlass. Whenever it was heavily loaded (i.e. run the wrong way with the anchor already up) or when the batteries have been used overnight and the state of charge is lower, both TZT2 MFDs rebooted! After looking at the ground wires, length of cabling, and a ton of other things, I realized that they were just very intolerant of sagging voltage, which is surprising since nothing else on the boat rebooted during these times. Voltages dropped to 10.5 volts measured at the flybridge when the windlass was in a bad state. I installed a DC to DC power conditioner to ensure constant voltage is provided to them for now. Longer term, when I switch to LiFePO4 batteries, voltage sags won’t be as much of an issue. I [posted a question about this in Furuno’s forums](http://www.furunousaforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=5361&ref=seabits.com), but most of the advice was to fix my electrical system. My point is that no other product seems to be this sensitive…. Overall, this trip was a resounding success. Everything worked extremely well, it was very relaxing and enjoyable journey, and we got to explore each location we stopped at. It was done with wonderful company – both my crew and friends on Sea Bear, and we all arrived safe and rested at our destinations. I can’t wait to take longer trips on Rendezvous this season, and start to deploy even more parts of the system including above and below water drones, and many more toys! ### Rendezvous initial networks URL: https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T01:54:56.000Z In the last 4 months, I have been developing my overall network on board [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/). I wanted a good WiFi/Ethernet network to connect me to the outside world, as well as a well developed NMEA 2000 network for marine equipment while underway. So far, here’s what I have… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Rendezvous-Network-2.png) Rendezvous Network ## Goals There were a number of goals with the network, but the key ones are: - **Navigation** – provided by the Furuno & Raymarine MFDs, radar, autopilot, wind sensor - **Communication** – VHF radios, AIS transponder, Internet connectivity - **Visibility & Monitoring** – Maretron & Furuno displays, SignalK and Yacht Devices Gateways, [Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder](https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/), Floathub, [Actisense engine monitor](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/), Yacht Devices temp sensors, AXIS camera system, [Arlo cameras](https://seabits.com/arlo-security-cameras-on-the-sailboat/), tank sensor - **Internet & Connectivity** – Peplink + weBoost amplifier, [MikroTik WiFi](https://seabits.com/tag/mikrotik/) extender This is the first major revision of the networks, and it will definitely continue to grow and evolve as I test and work with newer equipment, and expand areas that I am interested in covering. > All of this equipment is new to Rendezvous in the last 4 months with the exception of the two existing VHF antennas, depth/speed sensor, and the re-purposed Standard Horizon GX2150 VHF radio. I’ve been busy! ## Electrical Closet ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Elec-Closet.png) The network starts in the electrical closet, where power is provided to the NMEA 2000 bus from an always on circuit, and using a Maretron dual-sided power tee, with separate fuses for each side, planned for growth. Also in the closet is the NMEA 2000 main bus, which has connections out to the salon driving area, Internet Alcove, master stateroom and engine room. On the NMEA 2000 bus in the electrical room are several products from Yacht Devices including the [Voyage Recorder](https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/) and [WiFi Gateway](https://www.yachtd.com/products/wifi%5Fgateway.html?ref=seabits.com). In addition, the [Furuno NavPilot 300 main processor unit](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) is here, with connections to the bus as well as to the rudder angle indicator in the stern of the boat and the hydraulic autopilot pump. ## Internet Alcove ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Internet-alcove.png) This location has the highest quantity of interconnections and important devices. It has pathways to the flybridge, and onward to the arch, as well as down to the salon driving station and electrical closet, so it is a key stopping point and pass through for many things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/Peplink.png) Peplink MAX Transit router interface Inside the alcove is the core of the WiFi/Ethernet network for the boat. It starts with the Peplink MAX Transit router, which creates my local WiFi networks, connects via Ethernet to the Core Ethernet Switch, and grabs Internet connectivity either through one of it’s dual SIM slots using T-Mobile or Verizon, or via a cabled connection to the [MikroTik Groove](https://seabits.com/tag/mikrotik/) mounted on the arch. The switch is a [TRENDnet industrial switch](https://amzn.to/2TvLOyI?ref=seabits.com) that runs off of DC power, and everything is connected to the always-on dedicated circuit distribution in this area. I am using this switch instead of the StarTech managed switch I’ve used previously only because they no longer seem to be producing it. The LTE signals for the Peplink are amplified by a weBoost amplifier and antenna positioned near the router. A cable from the amplifier runs up through the flybridge and to the top of the arch where a dedicated [Wilson LTE marine-grade antenna](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/) sits to grab the LTE signals. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Grace-SailBits-Intel-NUC-front-lit-up.jpg) Inte NUC computer Connected to the LAN network is an [Intel NUC](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/) computer running Ubuntu 18.04 LTS which is connected to the NMEA 2000 network via a [canable](http://canable.io/?ref=seabits.com) interface. I run [SignalK](https://seabits.com/tag/signalk/) on this system which uses the N2K interface to grab all of the data on the bus, and allows me to use web-based dashboards like InstrumentPanel, or iOS apps on my phone and tablet like WilhelmSK. I am also using Grafana+InfluxDB to log a lot of the data from SignalK so I can see trends – tanks, wind speeds, temperatures, etc. In addition, this server runs [aisdispatcher](https://seabits.com/services/) and is a mobile AIS transmission station for a number of online services including MarineTraffic. The AIS data comes from the AIS transponder, and when on, the two VHF radios, both of which send any data they see to the bus. The [Arlo camera hub](https://seabits.com/arlo-security-cameras-on-the-sailboat/) is also in the alcove, connected to the LAN, and powered by the same always on circuitry. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Nemo-gateway-connectors.jpg) The [Rose Point Nemo gateway](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/) is in the alcove as well, and has a number of things connected to it. Most importantly, I have a legacy NMEA 0183 depth / speed sensor that is connected directly to the Nemo. It converts that to NMEA 2000 so all other devices on the boat can consume depth and speed through water. I would like to replace this with a NMEA 2000 sensor that might also include water temperature, but I haven’t gotten around to it. The cable run is also not an easy one… In addition, the Nemo gateway provides GPS, SOG, COG, and other info to the Standard Horizon VHF, which is NMEA 0183 only. It also receives AIS targets from the Standard Horizon and puts those on the NMEA 2000 network as well. Also in the alcove is a separate circuit for VHF/communication devices. This powers the Vesper VHF splitter, Standard Horizon VHF, and Digital Yacht Class B+ AIS transponder. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/IMG_1978.jpg) On the outside of the alcove there are a few instruments mounted for ease of use while in the salon area, and at the driving station. They include a Maretron DSM 150 display, Furuno RD-33 display, and a Standard Horizon GX2150 VHF. The Maretron and Furuno are connected to the NMEA 2000 bus, while the Standard Horizon VHF uses NMEA 0183 to the [Rose Point Nemo gateway](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/). The Maretron DSM is kept on 24×7 and faces out into the salon area so as you’re walking by or enjoying the views from the couch, you can still see critical info scrolling by. There’s also room here for expansion next to the Maretron, and elsewhere along the upper section. ## Salon Driving Station ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/Rendezvous-driving-station.jpg) Salon driving station This location has a bus drop hidden behind the engine gauges with the [Actisense EMU-1 engine monitor](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/) connected. There’s also a connection the lower Furuno RD-33 display which is mounted at eye level and used for data that should always be easy to see. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Salon.png) The Raymarine MFD is also mounted here, and although it is smaller, serves as a backup to the Furuno system in case of a major failure. I also use this MFD while at anchor to provide a good GPS signal, and provide an easy way to see location without running the more power-hungry Furuno system. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/timezero1.png) TimeZero Professional running on my Surface Book The biggest piece of equipment here is the Surface Book running TimeZero Professional. I used a RAM mount to install this, and usually only use the tablet portion of the Surface Book while underway. In addition, I am still using the AC-powered docking station that connects to the tablet part, which allows for a wired Ethernet connection to the Furuno Ethernet Switch in the flybridge, which allows TimeZero to control the radar, autopilot, cameras, and sync with the TZT2 MFDs. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/quad.jpg) TimeZero Professional on Surface Book showing quad camera view (only 3 cameras installed) I’m still investigating whether long-term a permanent monitor would be better suited than the Surface Book tablet, but it is very nice to have it be portable, so for planning, I can grab it and attach the keyboard, sit down at the dinette, and have a fully functioning laptop. This laptop also has a full copy of Coastal Explorer on it, and can use the [Nemo Gateway](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/) very effectively as a backup PC navigation software and even control the Furuno autopilot. I also have a wireless handheld remote for the [Furuno NavPilot 300 system](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) in case I choose to use the autopilot from this location. ## Flybridge ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Rendezvous-flybridge.jpg) Rendezvous flybridge This is my primary driving station, and as such, I spent more time making this a multi-purpose and comfortable place to be from a navigation and visibility perspective. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Flybridge.png) The primary part of the network here is the dual Furuno TZ-Touch 2 12″ MFDs which are connected both to the NMEA 2000 network and to the Furuno Ethernet Switch. They are the core of the navigation part of my network, and provide charts, radar, dashboards for engine and other, as well as cameras while docking and underway. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/TZT2ScreenShot_2019_04_02_14_54_41.png) C-MAP charts displayed on my Furuno TZT2 For charts, one TZT2 display is the master and also works in tandem with the TimeZero Professional copy running on the Surface Book at the salon driving station. I have C-MAP, Navionics, and US/Canadian Raster/Vector charts that I use at different times. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/TZT2ScreenShot_2019_04_02_14_55_17.png) Cameras viewed from my Furuno TZT2 The cameras are mounted in the engine room and on the port side of the boat, and are connected to a single AXIS camera server in the engine room. It has an Ethernet connection up to the Furuno Ethernet Switch, and the MFDs can display all cameras at once, or individual ones depending on your choice. I use the port side camera while docking, and the engine room cameras while underway. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/TZT2ScreenShot_2019_04_02_14_55_02.png) Furuno dashboard The dashboard feature within the TZT2’s is one of, if not the best, I’ve ever seen on an MFD. I don’t know why more people don’t talk about this, but I’ve already configured a dual engine page (mostly factory options with some tweaks) and a docking screen that shows speeds and wind and directions along with drift for help while docking. Almost all of this data comes from NMEA 2000. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/TZT2ScreenShot_2019_04_02_14_55_56.png) Furuno DRS4D-NXT radar displayed on TZT2 MFD Of course, one of the main reasons I put the TZT2’s in was the DRS4D-NXT doppler radar, which is amazing. The target analyzer feature in particular, which is using the doppler technology, is great as it identifies targets moving towards you at more than 3 knots, and tags them in color, as well as ARPA targets. These targets show up on the MFDs and the Surface Book/TimeZero down below. I have not investigated as to whether Furuno is sending out the correct PGNs for the ARPA targets to show up on other products like Coastal Explorer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/IMG_1979.jpg) The [Furuno NavPilot 300 control instrument](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/) is also here, and connected only to NMEA 2000 for power and control. It interfaces with the processor in the electrical closet. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Furuno-FI-70-engine-data.jpg) Furuno FI-70 showing dual engine data There is also a Furuno FI-70 display in this location only, connected to NMEA 2000 for network and power. The flybridge station has a truncated version of the engine gauges available at the salon driving station. In addition, when the throttles and gear levers are engaged while underway, they block some of the gauges requiring you crane your neck or look underneath them to see RPMs and other things. The FI-70 has a fantastic single-screen, dual engine display that allows me to see everything very quickly from any chair position, as well as things like boost pressure and other data courtesy of the [Actisense EMU-1 engine monitor I installed](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Furuno-FM-4800.jpg) Furuno FM-4800 VHF radio There is also a Furuno FM-4800 VHF radio here which is connected to the NMEA 2000 network as well. It transmits all AIS contacts that it is gathering, as well as a GPS source – the GPS on this thing is pretty amazing, and locks in within only a few seconds of powering on. I am really liking this radio, and will be writing about my initial impressions soon. The LCJ Capteurs WindyPlug is also connected to the NMEA 2000 bus here, and provides a barometer onto the network. It also has a NMEA 0183 connection to the thin cable for the ultrasonic wind sensor on the arch. ## Arch ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Arch.png) The arch houses mostly antennas and sensors that need to be up away from things. The biggest one is the Furuno DRS4D-NXT radar, which has an Ethernet connection back to the Furuno Ethernet Switch. In addition, the [Wilson marine LTE antenna](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/) and [MikroTik WiFi](https://seabits.com/tag/mikrotik/) extender are also mounted here, both with connections back to the Internet Alcove. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/04/Rendezvous-arch.jpg) The LCJ Capteurs CV-7 ultrasonic wind instrument is here as well, with a thin cable back to the WindyPlug connected to the NMEA 2000 bus drop point in the main flybridge. ## Elsewhere There are a few other places with networked devices: **Engine room** – there is a temperature sensor here, as well as an Ethernet connection to the AXIS camera server. The AXIS has video cabling to three cameras right now – one looking out on the port side of the boat, our primary docking side, and two engine room cameras. I plan on expanding this later. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Master.png) **Master berth closet** – this is where the Furuno PG-700 heading sensor is mounted, very low to the center of the boat. **Diesel tank** – under the master berth bed is the main diesel tank which has a [Maretron TLM ultrasonic sensor](https://seabits.com/diesel-tank-monitoring-with-maretron-tl/) monitoring the level. ## Future Plans None of my boats ever stay the same for very long. I love trying new things and testing new technology. Besides new toys, I do have a few things I want to address in the next year or so: **New depth/speed sensor** – need to replace this with a NMEA 2000 updated sensor – waiting to see if the newer ultrasonic one from Airmar is a good option. **Water tank monitoring** – I want to add a Maretron TLM ultrasonic sensor to my water tank, as I’ve run it dry a number of times already. Unfortunately there is no inspection port that I can find, so I need to cut a hole into it while it is in use. **More cameras** – maybe one on the starboard side. **VLAN switch** – The Furuno Ethernet network is not connected to anything else, which is their recommended design. I would like to add a VLAN capable switch so I can at least have my router connected to it, and perhaps a few NATs and routes so I can utilize the AXIS camera server on other devices. I even [posted on the Furuno Forums](http://www.furunousaforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=5263&ref=seabits.com) asking for clarification on network options, and was disappointed to find out severe limitations. Hopefully in a future version of software, Furuno will allow similar connectivity that they had with the TZT series, and that most every other vendor already has, including remote apps. **Power monitoring** – you’ll notice I have zero power monitoring other than general voltage, which is very unlike my previous boats. Rendezvous has a new-ish Magnum inverter which I added a proper shunt to for SOC and amp monitoring, but that’s about it. I would like to add a Victron battery monitor and their Color Control GX product, and place that data on the network so I can see it while at the flybridge underway. **Generator monitoring** – engine/other monitor product of some sort. **Circuit control** – I’m evaluating a solution that would allow CZone style control of various circuits from any MFD. Targeting things like navigation lights, etc. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [David Geller](http://eyejot.com/users/davidg?ref=seabits.com) [April 3, 2019 at 6:26 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-301) As always, a remarkably detailed and thoroughly fascinating read. [David Geller](http://eyejot.com/users/davidg?ref=seabits.com) [April 3, 2019 at 6:29 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-299) What led you to the Axis camera server? I have Axis cameras at home, but not their DVR. When one of my cameras started failing, recently, I switched out to a 4K unit from Lorex, which turned out to be pretty darn nice. I didn’t bother with the Lorex DVR. Instead, I’m using Synology’s Surveillance platform. Have you explored that at all? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 2, 2019 at 6:02 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-303) I’ve used all of those products, actually. I really like Synology’s platform for home stuff. I chose AXIS on the boat because Furuno supports them directly, and I wanted to be able to access the cameras from the flybridge and salon while docking most importantly. The port side camera shows me the entire edge of the boat from about 3/4’s of the way up the hull all the way to the stern. I also chose the particular AXIS camera server, which actually uses older analog cameras, because the camera server does the hard work of converting the video streams. That way I can look at a four camera display on my MFD, while the MFD really is only processing a single video stream. I’ve played with a bunch of other MFDs from other manufacturers and there are quite a few limits in terms of the amount of simultaneous amounts of cameras you can display on one screen. The AXIS solved that for me, as well as it was supported by Furuno. [Never for Ever](http://neverforever.ca/?ref=seabits.com) [April 3, 2019 at 7:05 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-298) Jeez how rich are you!!!! Just kidding, but man that’s a lot of toys. It’s going to take me a few reads to get it all straight in my head and pick out the bits I can use. I followed along on your little cruise this past weekend. You sure can put on the miles at \~10 knots. That in itself is enough to make me envious. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 3, 2019 at 6:01 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-302) It actually wasn’t as expensive as you would think, and I had set aside a decent amount of money to outfit the boat with proper electronics, plus sold a bunch of old ones. Plus, I would say about 1/2 of the stuff on the network is stuff I had already, so that saved a ton! Rest assured I will be writing about some of the pieces on the network that are new including more detail on Furuno and Yacht Devices stuff. Yes, going 10+ knots is quite a big change! Paul Greenhalgh [April 4, 2019 at 10:42 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-295) Great write up Steve….thanks. I am not clear about why you think the TZT2 MFDs are worthwhile though. The DRS-NXT radar can be direct connected via Ethernet to your Surface Book/TZ, as can a Furuno digital sounder. What upside do you see with these expensive pieces of the kit? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 4, 2019 at 5:59 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-297) There are quite a few reasons for the TZT2s. First, they are marine grade and protected against the elements. I have them mounted in my flybridge which while protected from the spray by canvas, water could still get in there, and they are exposed directly to the salt air, as the flybridge is open to the back to the elements. A Surface Book would not fare as well during some of these misty mornings that I’ve bee out in lately. Of course, I could take it in when I’m done, but what if I needed it out there while exposed? Second is visibility – if you have ever put a pair of polarized sunglasses on and attempted to look at a computer screen, you know what I mean. The Surface Book has the same issue. Yes, I could get a marine-grade display that can overcome some of these things (not all) but those are expensive too. This is probably the single biggest limitation with any laptop that I’ve come across. I’ll group these last ones together – reliability and simplicity. The Surface is a great laptop, but the MFDs are built to do one thing, and they do it very well. I have seen Time Zero Professional on the PC crash for one reason or another, while the MFDs rarely ever do, and if they do, there’s a second one to take over, plus alarms that ring letting me know something has happened. I like having something more “solid state” that is running the boat while underway. I could invest in multiple PCs, but now we’re talking about something far beyond what two TZT2s cost. Don’t get me wrong – if there was a good redundant, reliable, and easy to view solution for PC, I would never buy an MFD. But when a good Surface Book costs more than a TZT2 by almost $1000, the choice seems easy right now. Frank [April 5, 2019 at 3:40 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-296) Very interesting write-up. I am just starting on a similar path upgrading a 25 year old boat. Starting with the NMEA2K network this week-end, adding an EMU-1, Airmar Log/Depth and small Furuno display. My plan is to put in a higher end NUC computer to run touch-screen display(s) and forego the MFDs. Got a bit worried about you mentioning crashes on both the Timezero and MFD’s. I only have a salon drive station, so weatherproof displays are not needed. Here the 12 inch Furuno MFD is at least as expensive 2800 EUR as a higher end Surface book. And much more than a i7 NUC with a 12 inch touchscreen. Really enjoy learning from your experience with the upgrades - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 4, 2019 at 5:57 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-300) I think every computer based system crashes at some point – MFDs, TimeZero, and the like. I’ve had MFDs from pretty much everyone, and they all freak out, reboot, or lock up at some point. The key with any of these is that when they do, something on the network, or the device itself should set off an alarm when it happens. When TimeZero Pro on the PC crashes, there is really no alarm other than, eventually, something like the autopilot or other device that is relying on data from it complaining. And even then, it would be a more secondary message. If one of the TZT2s crashes, the other one starts beeping incessantly, and all other related devices also signal a change in GPS signal, autopilot data, etc. I also have noticed that TimeZero Pro on the Surface can really tax its CPU. At times the fans run at 100%, and if the sun hits it, it gets even hotter. Sometimes as well, virus scan, updates, and other things affect the performance of the Surface. Of course, you can turn those things off, but then you have a Windows machine that will eventually have issues. I think an MFD still has a place on a boat because of some of these things, but every year it gets closer to being less important. I have a NUC on board as well running Linux, and considered using two of them, one at each driving station, and touch screens so that I could avoid buying an MFD, but decided against it. The usability of an MFD in bad weather, in sunshine, etc. sold me on having them as the “solid state” device running things. However, the design of my system would allow a PC to be the primary controller at some point in the future. Time Zero Professional is a very nice piece of software, and I could see using that once I found a suitable set of monitors for both the salon and flybridge. I have yet to find one that has really good touch in all conditions, and also is viewable in sunlight and sunglasses. Sam Bartlett [July 30, 2019 at 3:36 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-239) Very nice job, Steve! I’m just about to begin planning a rewire for my boat and having a similar debate with myself about CZone and traditional panels… distributed power seems the way forward… I have a necessary rewire to do and therefore the (debatable) luxury of starting from a blank canvas if I want… - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 31, 2019 at 5:13 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-240) Thanks Sam! I would love to put a CZone system in my new boat, but the financial part still just doesn’t work out. I assume the only way to get one reasonably is to buy a newer boat with one already installed, which in and of itself is probably pretty expensive too!!! [Carl G](http://lightshowers.com/?ref=seabits.com) [April 19, 2020 at 3:48 pm](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-143) Steve – We have an all PC/IP Navigation implementation (No MFDs) driving 3 NEC displays in the Pilot House and echoing output to a pair of sun bright displays on the Fly Bridge with a completely wired redundant NAVPC (standby) which has never been needed in 12 seasons (knock on wood). They were both Win7 based and tuned to behave more as an appliance rather than a general purpose computer and generally kept from surfing the internet excepting the seasonal pull for Active Captain Updates, Chart updates, etc. I am concerned after reading your last reply that Win10 may prove destabilizing. There is a lot that can be de-tuned in Windows and the last time I did it with Win 7 was \~10 years ago. I am wondering if you might have a list of recommended changes to tailor Win10 into a more robust marine appliance? To switch between my 2 Navigation PCs I use a USB switch to redirect an NGT-1 connection. I should probably purchase a 2nd dedicated NGT-1 but that’s a 2nd BUS tap and I am running shy. I’d prefer to just have the N2K PGNs available to TZPro via TCP/UDP and remove all my USB wiring and switch. It looks like the NEMO would make a great gateway for use by multiple simultaneous clients. I see in your diagram that your NEMO is isolated from TZPro I assume your data is being repeated via the MFDs? I am wondering if you’ve tested the NEMO with TZPro 4 for compatibility (bidirectional?) and performance? Does the NEMO provide for any PGN filtering to minimize ethernet traffic? Other than the NEMO, are there other offerings that do the same? Sebastian Lourens [April 23, 2020 at 6:06 am](https://seabits.com/rendezvous-initial-networks/#comment-141) Fantastic read. I have a similar setup on Missy although I’ve opted for a W2K from Actisense which has a data logger built-in. I’ve been playing around with a few new apps too… There seems to be a new one every day! ### Diesel tank monitoring with Maretron TLM URL: https://seabits.com/diesel-tank-monitoring-with-maretron-tl/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T18:25:22.000Z [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) has plenty of engine gauges and info, especially since I [added the Actisense EMU-1 engine monitor](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/). But one area that was still lacking was how much diesel fuel I had. I could open up a storage area and read a sight gauge, but I wanted to have a lot more real-time information while underway. Understanding burn rates and general fuel usage depending on speed, weather, current, etc. is very hard to do unless you take readings at the sight gauge frequently. I have anecdotal information about various RPMs and gallons burned per hour, but I like having as much info as possible, especially with longer trips to more remote areas planned this year. Having more info will help plan fuel stops and ultimately be a safer situation. Back in 2014, I wrote about [Better Tank Monitoring](https://seabits.com/better-tank-monitoring/) and used a [Maretron TLM](https://www.maretron.com/products/tlm100.php?ref=seabits.com) on my boat [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) to fix a bad waste tank setup, and add monitoring to my water tank. I had several on my previous boat [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) – one for the water tank, and one for the waste tank. Even today, the Maretron TLM is still my go-to product for monitoring my tanks, and Rendezvous was going to get one for the fuel tank. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Diesel-tank-inspection-ports.jpg) My diesel tank is under the master berth, and after a bit of sleuthing, removing some screwed down panels, I found two big inspection ports. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Inspection-port-close-up.jpg) Each one was bolted down and had a nice rubber seal around it. The bolts were relatively easy to get off, and didn’t show signs of issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Inspection-port-open.jpg) The cover itself was aluminum as well, and looked pretty easy to drill a hole in. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Tank-with-diesel.jpg) While I had it open, I looked around inside the tank – it looked extremely clean, had great baffles in good places to slow down any waves/churn while underway. Just don’t drop anything (like your phone!) down here! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Hole-cut-tapped.jpg) I labeled the port cover clearly based on where it had sat before, and also based on the way I wanted the sensor to sit so the cable exited a particular way. I cut the hole for the sensor portion itself first using a hole saw, judicious amounts of cutting oil, and patience. For anyone who has ever used a hole saw, you know that it can really hurt your knuckles and hands if you go too fast. And that is an understatement. I clamped the cover down tight while ensuring I was at a slow speed with lots of oil, and a few minutes later I had the correct sized hole. Then one by one, I drilled out holes for the bolt pattern for the sensor. It’s important to align the rubber gasket correctly, as it only goes one way – Maretron use a wire tie and tag to warn you of this. A quick run through with the correct sized tap, and the holes are ready to receive bolts. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Maretron-TLA-tank-installed.jpg) Once the hole was cut, and the bolts were in and secure, I test fit it all, and it looked perfect. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/TLA-ready-to-go-in.jpg) The final step was to spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the bottom face of the sensor to keep it clean so it worked longer without any interruptions. Although I doubt that diesel would cause any sort of build up on it, I still didn’t want to have to open this port again unless I really needed to. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/TLM100-General-Page.png) The next step involved configuring the tank sensor on the NMEA 2000 network with my [Maretron USB 100 adapter](https://www.maretron.com/products/usb100.php?ref=seabits.com) and N2KView software. I could have also used my DSM display, but I find N2KView much easier to use. I set the label, tank number, tank type and overall tank capacity. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/TLM100-manual-table-close.png) The next step is to calibrate the tank by setting depths and levels. My tank was 24.5″ deep from the face of the sensor to the bottom of the tank. The sensor can’t read anything closer than 2″ to it accurately, so I estimated that would be about 98% full, but I think that might be wrong after seeing that about 2.5″ of diesel (which is what I have in there right now – quite low!) is about 10%, I may need to change that value to 95%. You can add as many values as you need to improve accuracy, but I have found two do just fine on nice square tanks. For funky shaped tanks, you will definitely need more values to make the values in the middle accurate. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/TLM-100-step-fill.png) Another option is step filling a tank and calibrating the sensor automatically. For me, this would not work as it requires the tank be empty, and since I only have one diesel tank, that would require some sort of dangerous choice like driving around until I was on fumes, or smoking out the fuel dock while I idle the rest of the fuel away. For water and waste tanks, this works much better, and I have used it on several strange shaped tanks with a lot of success. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Maretron-DSM-showing-fuel-levels.jpg) Once the config was done, configuring a quick screen on the Maretron DSM 150 display got me exactly what I had been looking for – a percent fuel left, calculated from the height of the liquid in the tank by the ultrasonic sensor, and an additional calculated value of how many gallons were left based on the total gallons I entered during configuration. This second calculation, the 124 gallons left in the picture above, is something to definitely be careful of. My tank is exactly square, or pretty close, and I suspect this number will be pretty accurate. However, if you have a strange shaped tank, or even slight changes to the bottom surface, this estimate could be quite a bit off unless you enter multiple values in the table above. From what I can tell, it is simply taking the total gallons in my tank (300) and doing a percentage calculation based on the first number. Next up, getting one of these in my water tank, which I have run dry already a number of times. Unfortunately, there aren’t any inspection ports, so I am considering how I want to approach that install! For now, though, I am super happy at having an accurate level of fuel for [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), which helps me sleep better and allays my tendency to check every 5 minutes while underway! ### Seaview - more than just mounts URL: https://seabits.com/seaview-more-than-mounts/ Last updated: 2023-11-12T03:02:16.000Z As part of the project to update [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/) electronics, I replaced the older Furuno open-array radar and associated bits. The plan was to mount a Furuno DRS4D-NXT radar in the space vacated by the old system, but I needed a new, taller mount. In addition to mounting the radar, I was also trying to fix a rather serious problem with my navigation lights. It seemed like I could solve both of these problems with an integrated mount of some sorts, or at least by attaching the lights myself somehow. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/ScanStrut-old-radar-mount.jpg) Old ScanStrut mount for Furuno open array radar I removed an older Furuno open array radar from my arch which worked just fine, but was part of a NavNet vx2 system that I wanted to replace. It had a ScanStrut radar mount which I felt was too short not only for the existing radar, but especially for the new radar I was putting up to replace it. Strangely, the installer had also drilled holes in various parts to run cables, rather than using the integrated cable path inside the mount, so there was a lot of corrosion. My navigation lights were sort of a mess, even with my recent [upgrade some of them to LED](https://seabits.com/new-lighting-everywhere/). The port and starboard green/red lights were the only ones that worked reliably. The stern light was obscured by the dinghy while in its davit, and was noted as a “must fix” in the marine survey. The anchor light worked well, but was pretty dim. The forward white steaming light seemed to be OK, but while removing the radar, I determined the entire front plastic was melted/broken. I also don’t think it was ever high enough to be seen appropriately – it appeared to have been moved during the previous radar install. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Arch-anchor-light.jpg) Arch with anchor light bar and older Furuno open array radar I had been searching for a solution to the navigation lights for several months, as I was worried about not having a proper stern light. I couldn’t just purchase a standard light and stick it somewhere – there were really no good options for where it could go on the stern of the boat. The back of the arch was a logical place, but that surface is angled, and the anchor light mounting pole was in the center anyhow. Not only would my OCD hate having the stern light offset, but the anchor light pole had always driven me slightly insane as it was not square, and the light was tipped forward at a slight angle. After searching for a few months, I stumbled across a boat at my marina that had an interesting mount for their forward steaming light, and it looked like an add-on component for a common mount system from Seaview. After a few searches, I found not only that particular mount, but a ton of other options that I had not been able to find with any other manufacturer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-boxes.jpg) I had a few questions about the dimensions of some of the parts I was considering, and dropped an email to Seaview directly. Jason Romesburg was happy to answer my questions, provide PDFs of measurements to help with ordering, and answer my questions about the entire setup. Jason Abrahamsen and Ian Smith helped get my order out the door, and only a few days later, I was ready to start installing. ## Parts List Here’s what I ended up purchasing from Seaview: - [Modular radar mount](https://www.seaviewglobal.com/products/modular-radar-mounts?variant=12309292286050&ref=seabits.com) – aft-raked, 16″ tall mounting pole - [Modular top plate](https://www.seaviewglobal.com/products/modular-top-plates?variant=12309295431778&ref=seabits.com) – attaches to the mount above, provides a secure platform for the radar - [Base wedge](https://www.seaviewglobal.com/products/base-wedges?variant=12309322793058&ref=seabits.com) – I wanted the radar angled to match the boat while it is underway at standard cruise speeds - [Light bar](https://www.seaviewglobal.com/products/light-bars?variant=12309272690786&ref=seabits.com) – attaches to the back of the mount, but comes as a bare pole – you need an add-on to complete it - [Light bar top for 3 Aqua Signal 40/41 lights](https://www.seaviewglobal.com/products/light-bar-tops?variant=13081988956258&ref=seabits.com) – allows you to mount three navigation lights on a neatly designed box. That last item is what sold me on the Seaview solution. Not only could I mount my new radar, tilt it appropriately, but I could also put my anchor, forward steaming, and stern navigation lights all in one place, and it would all look very slick. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-radar-mount-all-parts.jpg) I was also very happy with the overall price for the Seaview solution. Many of the other vendors were charging much higher price for their solutions. I saw several from ScanStrut that were $1000+ just for the radar mount! ## Modular mount ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-modular-radar-mount.jpg) Seaview aft-raked 16″ modular radar mount The radar mount itself is a big hunk of aluminum with sturdy mounting holes at the bottom, nice fat welds, and white paint that just so happened to match my arch color. It also comes with a plug which you can insert in the rear of the mount if you are not using a light bar or add on device. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-modular-radar-mount-top.jpg) Top of Seaview modular radar mount The top of the mount has integrated, threaded holes for the top plate, already pre-filled with grease, and a channel for the included rubber seal that you need to install. ## Modular top plate ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-modular-top-plate.jpg) Seaview modular top plate for radar mount The modular top plate comes in a few different flavors, but this particular one seems like it is used for the majority of closed dome array radars. It comes with the mount itself, bolts for mounting it to the pole, a rubber seal for the middle hole, and a fun drill template. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-top-plate.jpg) The plate itself quite heavy and appears to have metal inside of it coated with a starboard or plastic like substance. You can see tons of tiny dots on the outer edges, which indicate drill positions for various radars. In addition, the rear four threaded items are for the stern facing add on pole, which I would be installing. The 8 inset ones closer to the hole in the center were to mount it to the pole itself. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-top-plate-drill-template.jpg) The drill template was fun – included in the manual is a list of many common radar vendors and models, and you match those with the colored numbers on the template to drill the mount out for your radar. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-mount-temp.jpg) Top plate and mount mated together ## Wedge ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-wedge.jpg) There are a lot of opinions on whether you should angle your radar depending on how your boat is normally oriented versus when you are creeping along in fog, etc. I chose to angle my radar down 4 degrees, which seems to be a pretty common for boats of this size and displacement/angle. The plate itself mounts under the bottom of the entire mount. ## Light box ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/SeaView-lightbox.jpg) Seaview LTB-BOXW white navigation light box The light box was, strangely enough, the most interesting part of the entire solution to me. Yes, I was installing a brand new Furuno doppler radar with all sorts of features, but the light box held my interest far more! As I mentioned above, I had been searching for a good solution for my navigation lights, and this fit the bill. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/SeaView-light-box-top.jpg) The box itself attaches to the light bar, and mounts to the back of the entire setup. It also has access to the inside of the box through the removable top, making it easy to get all of your wiring done in a small space. ## Test fit ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-test-fit.jpg) Test fitting the mount on the lowered arch I always believe that test fitting anything you’re putting on the boat is an important part prior to installation. This has saved me countless hours and mistakes by validating everything from hole sizes to general approaches and wiring paths. In the picture above, you can see the entire mount attached to the arch, minus the radar itself, navigation lights, and with a pretty messed up mounting at the bottom from the removal of the previous mount. However, everything looked good, so I proceeded with the rest of the installation. ## Navigation lights ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Aqua-signal-navigation-lunasea-anchor.jpg) The Seaview light box is compatible with Aqua Signal Series 40/41 lights, which worked out well, as Rendezvous existing lights were made by a German company and leveraged the same size and mounting options. Having a consistent look is important to me. I did choose to purchase new lights as the old ones were in various states of disrepair, and new LED lights should last a long time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Navigation-lights.jpg) For the forward steaming light, an [Aqua Signal Series 43](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/aqua-signal-series-43-led-nav-light-masthead-black-housing-43400-7?ref=seabits.com) in black. For the stern light, I chose an [Aqua Signal Series 44 in black](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/aqua-signal-series-44-led-nav-lights-stern-black-housing-44500-7?ref=seabits.com) as well. For the anchor light, I chose the same wonderful light I used on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) when I did [major mast work](https://seabits.com/major-mast-work/), the [LunaSea anchor light](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/lunasea-lighting-anchor-fixture-and-flash-zero-ais-interference-llb-53ba-01-00?ref=seabits.com) – this thing is a like a mini-sun at night, and has a sensor to turn the light on and off at dusk and dawn respectively, plus a nice bird spike to keep things clean. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Aqua-signal-series-44.jpg) Aqua Signal Series 44 stern light wiring I will say that the Aqua Signal Series 43 is my least favorite navigation light to wire in recent memory. The connections on the back of it were designed by someone who wants to torture the installer, and I have concerns about long term viability as a result of that wiring. Conversely, the Aqua Signal Series 44 stern light (pictured above) was very well designed, with a waterproof connector to attach wires to, and an easy way to disconnect things if you need to service or clean the light. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Testing-aqua-signal-lights.jpg) Mounting the two Aqua Signal lights on the Seaview light box was pretty straightforwards – the box is easy to drill into, and the lights had plenty of mounting choices hole-wise. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-lightbox-wiring.jpg) There’s also a decent amount of room inside the box to work with the wires once you have things mounted. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-lightbox-aqua-signal-lights-lunasea.jpg) I chose to offset the mounting of the steaming light, seen here on the left, and the stern light, seen on the right, so that the stern one was as low as I could get it on the box. This is as close as I could get to other solutions I’ve seen on factory boats, and as close to regulations as possible. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-lightbox-navigation-lights.jpg) Overall I am very happy with how my light box navigation cluster came out. Everything is mounted very well, all LED, and well above anything and everything else on the boat so that I should be very visible while on the water. ## Installing the mount ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-base-installed.jpg) The first step was to get the mount attached to the arch in a secure way. I didn’t take a picture during this phase, so the photo is a bit out of order, already showing the radar mounted. Nevertheless, I ended up mounting a nice thick piece of star board using the existing large bolts from the previous, and much heavier, radar. Then I mounted the provided seal, wedge base, and then the base of the mount itself using large bolts up from the bottom of the star board, inset tightly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-modular-top-drilled.jpg) With the way my arch tips over, it was pretty easy to continue working on the mount without having to pre-assemble more of it on the ground, which was nice. Using the template, I drilled four holes that matched the Furuno radar mounting points. You can also see the four bolts showing in the back of the mount where the light pole was connected. This was a bit tricky, as I had already built the light box, and it had some weight to it, along with wiring. Getting the pole into the socket and the brackets and rubber seal along with the bolts in place was a bit of a balancing act alone. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-mount-without-radar.jpg) Before I mounted the radar, I tested the navigation lights and ensured the new wiring worked. As part of this, I removed the old anchor light mount from the back of the arch, which I think looks a lot better – that big mount stuck out over the sun deck, while this one is up and away from that living space, including the lights themselves. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-everything-mounted.jpg) Seaview mount with Furuno DRS4D-NXT radar and navigation light bar Mounting the radar was really easy – the four bolts provided by Furuno fit perfectly, and locked the radar in tight. Routing the cable down through the rubber grommet provided by the Seaview mount was pretty easy. The hardest part was getting sealant into the grooves of that rubber grommet to keep things dry. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/Seaview-radar-mount-with-navigation-lights-finished.jpg) I think the end result looks very professional, and matches the angle and color of my arch more than the previous setup. I also now have fully functional navigation lights that should last a very long time, and of course, a beautiful new NXT radar which I will discuss in a future post. I highly recommend Seaview if you are looking for a mount of any kind for your radar, GPS, VHF, or navigation lights. Their products are well built, cost effective, and the people are super nice to deal with! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [David Geller](http://eyejot.com/users/davidg?ref=seabits.com) [March 12, 2019 at 9:27 pm](https://seabits.com/seaview-more-than-mounts/#comment-305) Good post, as always. Wouldn’t a single unit like [https://www.amazon.com/Seaview-Attwood-Combination-Round-LTBA-7800/dp/B00HT8VFP0](https://www.amazon.com/Seaview-Attwood-Combination-Round-LTBA-7800/dp/B00HT8VFP0?ref=seabits.com) have served you just as well and have been much easier to install, with a smaller profile? That’s what I have, sitting atop my Seaview modular mount. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 12, 2019 at 6:06 am](https://seabits.com/seaview-more-than-mounts/#comment-306) According to the regulations, a boat over 40′ must have separate steaming and stern lights, and you can’t use a single all around light. I did look at that light, and many others, as an option, but the regulations are clear – I need a forward facing, 270 degree arc steaming light, and a separate stern facing light. ### Furuno NavPilot 300 unboxing and initial installation URL: https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T01:59:38.000Z One of the most important pieces of technology on any boat I own is the autopilot and systems that drive it. Rendezvous came with a partially functioning autopilot that I was not able to rely on, so I started searching for a new solution. ## Searching for an autopilot Part of this search wasn’t just simply about an autopilot, but about all of the systems around it. Unfortunately in the marine electronics world, you can’t mix and match too many components without having compatibility issues, or at least quirks that become irritating quickly. This led me to a bigger discussion of the main key systems on the boat, the features I needed and wanted, and what solution(s) provided those. This entire process is the subject for a dedicated article, but at the high level, I consider three systems critical to the core of navigating and moving my boat: an autopilot, a radar, and a display of some sorts for both. After a lot of research, I chose Furuno for all three of those components. Trying to use a mix of vendors is possible, but as I mention above, they rarely work reliably together. In the case of radars, they are almost all proprietary to their own displays or chart plotters. I also wanted the deep integration you find with autopilots and chart plotters where the manufacturer likely has to be the same. Being able to control the autopilot from the chart plotter, make course changes, reset the XTE, and control it from a different location where there is a chart plotter but maybe not an autopilot control head are all desirable to me. ## Existing System I removed the existing autopilot shortly after I purchased the boat. It was a Furuno NavPilot 700 system but with some older components mixed in. It never worked quite right, even under the simplest conditions. It was also directly connected to the Furuno chart plotter that I am also replacing, which really did not work well for the type of route planning and navigation I planned to do. I did connect the Furuno control unit to my NMEA 2000 network for a while, and played around with sending courses to it from Coastal Explorer, several Raymarine MFD’s, and TimeZero. None of them worked well, many of them did not work at all. That sort of reliability and finickiness is not something I want to deal with on a day-to-day basis. The worst part of the install was the compass, which was placed in a center part of the boat, very stable area, but **directly** above the main battery switches and cables for the engines. Several times while trying to calibrate it, I watched while the compass essentially spun around in circles over and over any time the engines were on and charging the house bank. After 8 different attempts to calibrate it, I gave up with that location, and tried another. It worked better, but still had interference from nearby sources. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Existing-type2-pump-1024x704.jpg) One thing I did keep is the newer Type 2 hydraulic pump which was wired and plumbed in already. I had not seen any issues with the pump while using the existing autopilot, so it seemed like a good way to not have to deal with a hydraulic mess and save some money. I was also able to keep my rudder reference unit wiring, which was nearby. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Rudder-markings-1024x1012.jpg) I also took the time before removing my old autopilot and rudder reference unit to mark both rudder posts so I knew where rudder center was. I used my trusty [Sharpie white oil paint markers](https://amzn.to/2E4ExkS?ref=seabits.com), which I use for all sorts of things around the boat. This would help me when installing the new autopilot and rudder reference unit. ## Choosing a Vendor I went into this with all four of the major vendors on my list: Raymarine, Garmin, Simrad, and Furuno. Initially, I leaned towards Raymarine as I had one of their Evolution autopilots on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), and loved it. I had no issues with it, it worked reliably the 2 years I had it in place, and the integration with their Axiom MFD was great. Simrad was at the bottom of my list, as I had a previous generation of their autopilot on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), and it was a nightmare in terms of reliability and just general usage. It did look like there were some improvements in recent years, but I also am not a fan of their rather MFD operating system. Most of the calls I get to consult on fixing systems have do with Simrad, so that definitely played into my decision to rank them at the bottom. Garmin is very highly rated by many people I know as being one of the easiest systems to use with a reliable set of hardware. I am not a big fan of their user interface, but it is pretty easy to use. What I did find is a similar polarized opinion around their autopilots – some people love them, some hate them with a passion – very similar to Simrad. What was frustrating to me was trying to get specific technical details on the installation and usage, along with a confirmation it world work with my existing pump. I was referred directly to Garmin to confirm the pump can be used, and after several attempts at contacting them, I was generally given the advise that I should spend $2000-4000 more for their branded pump. That combined with the instability with their autopilots I had heard from a number of folks took them out of the running. Furuno originally was not high on my list either, having dealt with the auto pilot on Rendezvous that was not working. However, after reviewing their new NavPilot 300 system, and [chatting with folks on their helpful forums](http://www.furunousaforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5060&ref=seabits.com), they popped up to #2 on my list. ## The Choice After reviewing the top two, and delving deeper into the chart plotter and radar options, I chose the [Furuno NavPilot 300](https://www.furuno.com/en/products/autopilot/NAVpilot-300?ref=seabits.com). This was mainly driven by the quality of the auto pilot, radar, and the way I can feed all of this courses and information from the chart plotter, PC, and other sources. The NavPilot 300 is also 100% NMEA 2000 based, which meant no proprietary cabling specifically for the pilot. Furuno specifically markets the NavPilot 300 to center console boats, but after my [discussion on the Furuno forum](http://www.furunousaforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5060&ref=seabits.com), it seemed like it would work just fine on my boat as well. The main control display looks like it has all the features I need, it comes with a handheld remote, which would be nice for a second driving station, and it has a good main control unit with easy cabling. ## Unboxing & Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-packing-box-1024x768.jpg) I ordered the [NavPilot 300 bundle with the PG700 heading sensor from The GPS Store](https://www.thegpsstore.com/Furuno-NavPilot-300-Autopilot-with-PG700-P5634.aspx?ref=seabits.com). This bundle included the NavPilot 300 itself, and the venerable PG700 heading sensor, each in their own box. The NavPilot 300 is packaged just like everything else I’ve seen from Furuno – fantastic boxes and components, along with clear lists of everything included. I also ordered [Furuno’s rudder reference unit FAP6112](https://www.furunousa.com/en/products/fap6112?ref=seabits.com) even though the NavPilot 300 does not require it. I wanted it so I can see where my rudder is pointing when I am docking and in other situations. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-packing-stuff-1024x768.jpg) There’s a ton of good documentation as well including an operators manual, quick guide cards, and individual sheets for specific mounting options and parts. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-overview-2-768x1024.jpg) Here is everything out of the NavPilot 300, PG700 and rudder reference boxes. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-control-unit-wires-2-768x1024.jpg) The main processor unit (FAP-3012) is a bit smaller than the 700 series autopilot, and comes with pre-wired leads ready to connect to various things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-control-unit-wires-1024x683.jpg) It is pre-wired with the following connections: - DC power - Hydraulic pump power - Rudder reference - NMEA 2000 - EVC system connection - Safe helm / event switch Everything is labeled clearly and comes with plenty of length. I only used the DC power, hydraulic pump, rudder reference and NMEA 2000 connections. It was very easy to install the processor unit. I had a good spot already from the previous autopilot, and a NMEA 2000 bus point nearby. After connecting that, the DC power supply wires, the existing rudder reference and hydraulic pump wires, and mount the whole thing securely. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-display-remote-cabling-1024x683.jpg) The NavPilot 300 also comes with the handheld remote, control unit, cabling, cover, and mounting options. One thing I do not like about Furuno is that almost every product I’ve ever purchased does not come with a bail mount – they are all options you have to order, and are sometimes hard to find through normal vendors. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-head-autopilot-1-1536x1024.jpg) The control unit is very similar to the 711 series one, minus the twisty dial in the middle. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-head-back-1024x768.jpg) The biggest difference from the older 700 series is that the control unit uses NMEA 2000 connections, which is one of the reasons I went with this system. I already have an extensive NMEA 2000 network on board, and being able to add the control unit wherever I had an existing open connection was very attractive. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-head-connecting-1024x683.jpg) Unlike older control units which were directly wired to the processor unit, the NavPilot 300 unit searches the NMEA 2000 network for the processor when first starting up. I have noticed that sometimes this can take up to 30 seconds, and in rare cases, the search failed. I do have an older version of software, and will be upgrading it as soon as the rest of my Furuno stuff arrives. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-head-idle-1024x683.jpg) The control unit is very bright and easy to read, and has a few configurable screens for each mode. This is one area where the NavPilot 711 has an advantage, as there are more screens and configuration options. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-head-autopilot.jpg) Above I have the NavPilot 300 set to a compass course, and you can see the icon of the boat changed to include a red section which indicates the course of the boat. The rudder position is in the bottom left, and my position on the bottom right. You can change the bottom right data to various different things – SOG, COG, GPS location, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-remote-768x1024.jpg) One of the big selling points to the NavPilot 300 is the handheld gesture remote. I wasn’t particularly interested in the gesture part, but I was happy to have a second way to control the autopilot. I intend on using this at the lower helm. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-remove-standby-1024x683.jpg) The display is pretty small, but very easy to read and backlit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-NavPilot-300-remote-auto-1024x683.jpg) You can control the entire system from the remote, including switching modes, which will be very helpful at the lower helm. I did notice that the range was pretty short – you can see the signal strength in the bottom left corner at only one bar. I was within 10 feet of the main processor unit, and it was pretty low. It did not work from my flybridge location. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-rudder-indicator-768x1024.jpg) The rudder reference unit was almost identical to the one I removed with my NavPilot 700 setup. I was able to re-use existing wiring from that location to the processor unit, saving me a bunch of time. It was pretty simple to install the crossbar into the rudder since there was an older system there before. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-PG700-768x1024.jpg) The other critical part of the system is the PG-700 heading sensor. This has been around a while, but came bundled with the package I chose. I had an older heading sensor I removed that was never successfully calibrated, and mounted in an incorrect place for proper operation. The PG-700 was easily mounted in a great new location, and calibrated the first time out on the water. It is also NMEA 2000 certified, so no proprietary wiring. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/Furuno-PG700-mounting-bracket-683x1024.jpg) The PG-700 has a cool mounting bracket that can be flipped different ways to mount on a flat surface, a wall, and in other configurations. ## Opinion so far… Everything was pretty easy to install, especially because of the NMEA 2000 compatibility. So far I’ve used the NavPilot 300 for about 20 hours of time on the water. Most of my usage has been with Coastal Explorer routes driving the autopilot for the various places we’ve been going. I’ve also used it a bunch just holding a compass course. I’ve tried the Nav Eco and Nav Precise settings, and seen a difference between both. I prefer Nav Eco as it seems to be slightly less aggressive with course corrections. The existing Type 2 pump has been working very well with the system. I have had the control unit lock up a number of times whenever I turn on the handheld remote. It sounds like there is a new software release that could help with this. Other than that, the system has performed very well, and I look forward to using it with the rest of my extended Furuno system being installed soon. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Larry O'Keefe [February 17, 2019 at 3:34 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/#comment-311) Steve, I am also considering the Furuno NAVpilot as a fully redundant system to complement the older Simrad AP20 system on the boat, and am also trying to decide between the 300 and the 711c. I like the idea of the gesture control for the 300, and don’t think I need the additional features of 711 (jog levers, etc). Have you tried the Power Assist mode on your 300? That also seems like an attractive feature of both the Furuno units. Larry N5012 Miss Miranda Anacortes, WA - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 17, 2019 at 6:12 am](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/#comment-312) Keep in mind that the 300 has limits in terms of overall current and drive types compared to the 711\. I’d make sure with Furuno that your boat, pump, and the other pieces are compatible, if you have a pump already, which it sounds like you do. I can’t use Power Assist or Safe Steer as I have a standard Type 2 pump, and those features require an Accu-Steer pump with wiring between the AP and the pump. Seems like fun features though! - Larry O'Keefe [February 17, 2019 at 10:34 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/#comment-333) Thanks for that tip, Steve. I went back to the Furuno Forum and asked the question. I would be using the HRP35 or equivalent pump, which is too much for the NAVpilot 300\. So, I’ll be going with the 711c. ElCidnumber1 [April 11, 2019 at 5:08 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/#comment-289) Steve, fantastic write up. I’m I’ve been looking to switch out my old Wagner (now glitchy) auto pilot, and with my recent Furuno radar purchase the navpilot seems a good fit. We have an early 80’s 43′, full keel, sailboat. With everything I have read or have been told indicates the Navpilot300 is only for small boats and that I should be looking at the 711\. However I can find no actual reason for this in any of the literature. Although it’s a power boat your boat is a similar size to ours. So could i please ask why did you go with a 300, rather than 711? And do you know of any reason why the navpilot300 would not work in our case? The 300 appears to be a lot more cost effective, and really I don’t need a lot of functions just a simple working autopilot. Cheers, Chris Vancouver,BC - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 11, 2019 at 6:14 am](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/#comment-290) Chris, I had a number of discussions with Furuno about using the 300 with my boat, even though they do market it for smaller center console boats. The keys seemed to be around the type of autopilot pump and the size of the boat and pump overall. The 300 will only work with hydraulic pumps, so if you are thinking of using an electric or other setup, the 711 is the choice. It also has a max capacity in terms of amps that it can send to the pump, and thereby limits the overall size of that pump. Usually bigger and heavier boats require a bigger pump. From what Furuno told me about my boat, I’m using a Type 2 pump and it was rated at a particular amount of fluid it could move, and they said the 300 would be fine for it. I had the 711 on the boat prior to moving to the 300, and I didn’t like it as it used proprietary or older cabling between all the pieces. That meant for two driving locations, I had 4 cables going between those, then one going to the heading sensor, and rudder reference unit. The 711 control system unit has a NMEA 2000 port, but it was limited as well in terms of what could go back and forth. The 300 is NMEA 2000 throughout which made cabling much easier. I would post in the Furuno forums with your specific boat size, length, weight, and pump information and ask if the 300 would work for you, or you can call their support as well, or chat with a good local dealer. Hope that helps! Adam Hyde [March 4, 2021 at 3:47 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/#comment-2175) Steve, How’s it been going with the Navpilot 300? I’m particularly interested in what you do when a log suddenly appears in front of the boat. Do you grab the wheel to override, or do you have to disengage the autopilot and then steer away? Can you quickly point the remote for a quick turn? I’m considering getting this setup because Raymarine doesn’t seem to have a remote I can use at my lower station or on deck. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 4, 2021 at 7:08 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/#comment-2183) Hi Adam, The NP300 has been flawless since installation. I’m actually adding a second control station just to have identical instruments at both locations, mainly for ease of use and if someone other than me is driving. I use the dodge functionality in either the remote or main units to avoid a log. Most autopilots have this function, and it works very well. Some autopilots have the breakaway capability you’re asking about – where you can grab the wheel and steer, and they disengage. That usually requires a unit at the pump, if it is hydraulic, that detects something else controlling the boat and stopping the autopilot. They can be expensive and require a specific pump and other hardware. I’ve never had one of those in the 15+ years I’ve had autopilots and have no issues just using the dodge feature or turning it off. - Adam C Hyde [March 4, 2021 at 10:31 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/#comment-2193) Great info. So in your opinion at 18 knots I would have time to disengage/dodge and then turn? I guess I could start the turn with the wheel while simultaneously hitting the button? Also do you think the Raymarine rudder reference unit would work with the Furuno Autopilot with my inboard? I’m a bit doubtful the resistive values are the same, but perhaps you can calibrate or tweak the resistance a bit to match it? I have a Raymarine unit connected to an Arduino at the moment so I’d rather not buy another one. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [March 4, 2021 at 11:30 pm](https://seabits.com/furuno-navpilot-300-unboxing-and-initial-installation/#comment-2195) It would really depend on how far away whatever it is that you’re trying to avoid is from the boat. Any autopilot is going to allow you to avoid things, but depending on how quickly you react. I don’t think you can calibrate the rudder signal on any/most autopilots – they usually assume one of their own is there, but I suppose you could meter them out and see. ### Poulsbo and Bainbridge snow adventure URL: https://seabits.com/poulsbo-and-bainbridge-snow-adventure/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:12:01.000Z After having Rendezvous on the dock for the last few weeks, I was itching to get out on the water and enjoy some winter cruising. Crew member Jake was free early on a Friday, so we set off to Poulsbo for the weekend. Jake was last aboard right after Thanksgiving when we had a [bit of a fire and adventure](https://seabits.com/boat-exploration-a-shock-and-a-fire/), and we had both been looking forward to returning to Poulsbo and being out on the boat again. We left Friday afternoon and cruised north of Bainbridge Island, through Agate Pass, and into Liberty Bay. As in November, there were only a few other boats at anchor, so we chose a nice spot out away from the marina, and dropped anchor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/01-Rendezvous-at-anchor-1024x768.jpg) I had installed a new camera system that I was testing, hoping it would be something I could integrate with my new electronics systems that I will be installing later in February. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/01-Cameras-1024x768.jpg) While underway to Poulsbo, I was able to see the camera in action, although the intent was to use it while docking and in close quarters. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/01-cameras-at-dock.png) The camera is a cheaper bullet-style outdoor analog camera connected to an [Axis M7014 video encoder](https://www.axis.com/en-us/products/axis-m7014?ref=seabits.com). I chose to use an analog camera because I wanted to be able to use relatively cheap cameras of differing lens and sizes, which would be mounted in some risky areas. I also had read that the video encoder solutions are better with MFDs, specifically with Furuno, as the video processing and sizing for multiple streams is handled by the encoder. I’m going to continue testing different cameras and options before I make a final decision and install. Currently I have this camera under the port rail affixed with a 3M sticky strip and the wiring routed in through the engine air intakes. I did get the chance to fly the drone for a while – you can see how alone we are in the anchorage! I’m looking forward to having more flights this season – it is so much easier to fly off of Rendezvous with the big back deck. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/01-Depth-Liberty-Bay-1024x768.jpg) We were still seeing pretty drastic tides around Puget Sound, and Liberty Bay was no exception. We got down just below 7 feet on Friday night. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/02-Rendezvous-night-light-1024x768.jpg) The [new lighting](https://seabits.com/new-lighting-everywhere/) was working out very well, and we had a completely calm night at anchor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/02-Poulsbo-dinghy-dock-1024x768.jpg) Saturday was pretty cold, but we decided to head in to Poulsbo Marina dinghy dock and tie up and explore the town. I am still in love with my [Highland 10′ dinghy](http://www.highfieldboats.com/classic-310/?ref=seabits.com) and how fast it goes. I love the aluminum hull and how light it is, and my favorite feature is the integrated bilge, which keeps any water that gets into the boat separate from where you stand. I’ve also learned a lot about the new Mercury EFI outboard, and how little maintenance there is even compared to the previous versions of 4-cycle outboards. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/02-Sluys-viking-cup-768x1024.jpg) Of course, you have to stop at [Sluys Bakery](https://www.sluyspoulsbobakery.com/?ref=seabits.com) when you’re in Poulsbo. My favorite thing is the Viking Cup, which is essentially a partially hollowed out cinnamon roll with wonderful icing inside the cavity. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/02-Knockwurst-768x1024.jpg) We also stopped into the [Marina Market](https://www.marinamarket.com/?ref=seabits.com) which has an extensive selection of Scandinavian food and supplies. Jake and I had enjoyed some knockwurst and sauerkraut the last time we were here, and went back for the same thing again. I guess our Nordic roots came into play! ## The Adventure ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/03-Poulsbo-snow-starting-1024x768.jpg) I had been watching the weather very closely the entire trip, and we had plans to leave around 1PM on Sunday to ensure we avoided most of the wind in the channel. There was a good 6 hour window to get home from noon onwards, but things started looking a little sketchy and the NOAA radar showed some snow/rain showers moving in from the south, so it was time to go. By the time I had the anchor up, snow was falling on the sun deck. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/03-underway-stern-snow-1024x768.jpg) As soon as we exited Liberty Bay, things started deteriorating pretty fast. Visibility dropped to about a mile, and heavy snow started falling. The wind was gusty, but not too bad. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/03-underway-snow-1024x768.jpg) The flybridge started icing up a bit more, and visibility dropped even further. I had sold my radar, and was waiting on the new one to arrive, so we slowed and used eyeball 1.0 to watch for traffic. I had opted to head south through the channel to Rich Passage instead of going back around the north end of Bainbridge, mainly because of the wind direction and waves. **Here ends the pictures….** As we exited Rich Passage, both the upper flybridge and lower salon driving stations became mostly unusable. White out snow conditions combined with half melting snow that froze on the windows rendered our visibility very poor. Waves started to build, and as we got closer to rounding the southern tip of Bainbridge, were quite large at 4 feet, with larger ones rolling in every so often. I tried using body heat and other means to defrost the flybridge windows, but it was to no avail. The salon was marginally better, but the temperatures had dropped so quickly that the interior fogged up quickly. I went out onto the bow while we were at idle and cleaned all of the ice off the windows, but it was clear we needed to get to a safe place. Jake worked the squeegee on the interior windows while we pounded through what now was about 25 knots of wind and 4-6 foot waves. The boat could handle this weather, but being new to me, docking in this sort of weather was not something I was confident in. Besides, we were only just entering the channel, and had about 40 minutes to cross all of the ferry lanes and get back to the marina. I didn’t think it was safe to continue, so we diverted into Blakeley Harbor. Unfortunately Jake got really seasick with the motion of the boat while he kept the windows clean for me to navigate, so as soon as we anchored, he went to rest. I kept reviewing the forecast and real-time wind reports, but it did not look good for any further movement on Sunday night. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/03-Blakeley-1024x683.jpg) The snow started to accumulate, but I wasn’t too worried about that. Blakeley is pretty deep, and we were in about 45 feet of water with 200 feet of chain out. I’ve anchored here many times before and not had any issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/03-Blakeley-anchor-map-1024x978.jpg) Soon it was obvious this storm was a bit different. The wind came from all directions of the compass, and would be hardly anything, and then 20 knots. We spun around constantly and could never figure out where the wind was coming from. On top of that, the big waves were getting bigger, and bouncing off the shore out in the entrance of the harbor, and reflecting deep into the anchorage were we were. By now it was very dark, and I did not want to try to move or get home with the bad weather. Thus began one of the worst nights on anchor that I have had in recent memory. Spinning around endlessly with the wind, combined with rolling waves coming from several directions, making the boat roll side to side a ton. Jake’s seasickness got 10x worse, and I was well on the way to being sick. We spent all night in the harbor, but slept very little. At 7AM, I was up prepping the boat to move to Eagle Harbor, only 3NM away, with only about 1.5NM exposed. The waves looked pretty big from what I could see, and the winds were sitting at 30 knots at the [West Point buoy](https://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station%5Fpage.php?station=wpow1&ref=seabits.com). However, I was concerned about us becoming very sick at our current anchorage, and the waves and wind were increasing in the harbor, so dragging was a potential possibility. We pulled out of Blakeley Harbor at 8AM on Monday into 6-8 foot waves and 30 knots of wind, gusting to 35 knots. Rendezvous didn’t even falter – I throttled up to 12 knots, and she just plowed directly through the waves, which were coming directly towards us from the north. Jake was watching the water for debris while I stood at the flybridge helm and worked the throttles and steering to surf us up and down the big waves. A couple were much larger than 8′ and we had to slow down to pound through them, but there was never a time I felt out of control, or that I couldn’t deal with things. After about 15 minutes in the big waves, we entered the harbor, passed an early morning commuter ferry, found a spot to anchor amongst a bunch of moored boats, and had a nice breakfast. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/04-Eagle-Snow-1024x768.jpg) It continued to snow, and the wind was a lot stronger here than Blakeley, but it was consistently coming from the north, keeping us pointed the same direction. This anchorage was so calm compared to Blakeley Harbor, we were in heaven! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/04-Eagle-winds-1024x474.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/04-Eagle-winds-gusts-1024x474.jpg) We had nice long naps, knowing that the winds were not going to slow down all day, and that I wasn’t comfortable crossing or docking in them. PredictWind showed gusts into the 40 knot range, but I never saw sustained winds less than 35 knots most of the day, with gusts well beyond 40. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/04-Eagle-sunset-1024x768.jpg) The sunset was beautiful, but the wind chill was not. We were seeing temperatures in the mid 20’s with wind chills in the low teens. Our Webasto diesel heater was running constantly since we had no protection from the wind. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/04-eagle-porthole-view.jpg) Photo courtesy of Jake Vaule We had a nice steak dinner, watched the ferries come and go, and enjoyed a calm anchorage with pretty views of Seattle. The snow stopped, and we were able to see the Seattle skyline – our destination in the morning. The forecast showed a good 8 hour window of light winds from 4AM-noon. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/05-leaving-eagle-sun.jpg) Heading out of Eagle Harbor with the Bainbridge Island ferry ahead of us – photo courtesy of Jake Vaule We were up at 7AM, and underway by 7:45\. After waiting for the big Bainbridge Island ferry to depart, we followed her out to completely flat seas and a beautifully sunny, albeit cold, morning. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/05-steve-driving-side.jpg) Author driving from salon station – photo courtesy Jake Vaule This was the second time I had been driving from the salon station during the trip, and while I had been told this was not a likely driving position, I have found myself appreciating the location more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/05-steve-driving-leaving-eagle.jpg) Photo courtesy Jake Vaule You can see that my visibility is not amazing, but I can still see very well while standing. The previous owner removed the windshield wipers for some reason, and the motors are not working, so there is some work to do if I want to use the location with bad weather. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/05-ebm-new-slip-1024x768.jpg) The rest of the crossing was uneventful, and I even docked us in our new slip without too much drama. I had chosen to move to a slip with a sailboat neighbor, which allowed a bit more room when first entering the slip, and also a different side of the dock which meant that in a north wind, I would be blown onto the dock while docking, which is very common in the summer. It also looked like the fairway was slightly larger (it was) which is important, as my marina has super narrow ones. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/05-stern-line-1024x768.jpg) The other super nice surprise was that the slip was slightly deeper, which means that I can use the stern hawse hole to run the stern line out, which makes the boat set better against the dock, and easier to get on and off since the piling isn’t right at the swim step. It is little things like this that make the captain happy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/05-anchor-deck-mess-1024x768.jpg) After two rough days at anchor in super cold windy conditions, the foredeck was very dirty since we did not have someone washing things off in that cold weather and exposed to danger while pulling anchor. A quick wash at the dock helped. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/05-anchor-768x1024.jpg) The new anchor, swivel and chain hook + bridle has been working very well the last 3 months. In fact, the Mantus anchor has held so well everywhere we’ve gone that I have to drive the boat over it to get it to release. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/02/05-EBM-docks-768x1024.jpg) The docks were pretty snowy and icy, and after getting Jake on his way, I cleaned things up, and headed home myself. It was a fun and adventurous 4+ day trip with beautiful snow views, and a bit of excitement. I was super pleased with how Rendezvous handled the heavy weather and cold temps, and glad I made the choices I did to keep us safe. I heard several boats running across late Sunday that were not having a fun time. I’m looking forward to more winter cruising! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Mic Fite [February 11, 2019 at 10:14 pm](https://seabits.com/poulsbo-and-bainbridge-snow-adventure/#comment-315) Good on ya for getting out. I’ve never seen Liberty Bay so deserted. Nice drone footage. Rendezvous is good looking (for a power boat. 😉 I use the same anchor watch app, haven’t found anything better yet. I’m looking forward to hearing about your camera system details. I’ve been wanting to add some cameras but can’t justify the asking price for “marine” cameras. I’m intrigued by Raymarine’s ClearCruise. I do wonder if third-party cameras could be made to work with it. Cheers, Mic - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 11, 2019 at 6:20 am](https://seabits.com/poulsbo-and-bainbridge-snow-adventure/#comment-320) I really like that anchor app. I’ve used it for a few years without any issues. I usually have an iPad at the helm that I use when I’m anchoring so that I can mark the exact spot of the anchor. I’ve tried the newer push and email features while away from the boat as well, and had good results. The camera system is definitely something I will be writing about more in detail. The marine-grade cameras provided by the big manufacturers are really overpriced and limited in size/view/features. It does seem that they won’t let you use many 3rd party cameras with their systems. Right now my setup should work with most manufacturers, but in particular with my Furuno system that I’m installing very soon. I’ll keep you updated. ### New LED lighting everywhere URL: https://seabits.com/new-lighting-everywhere/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:14:29.000Z Rendezvous was very well built and came with light fixtures in more places than any boat I have ever owned. Still, they were mostly incandescent or compact fluorescent, and in some cases had been upgraded to LED, but the colors were wrong. I have always had lighting as one of my top priorities on the boat, not necessarily just because of how it looks, but how it makes the space feel more inviting, usable, and safe. Updating lighting is relatively inexpensive compared to most other boat projects, and it gives you a very immediate improvement. It seems to be a popular thing to do in the off season – [even Ben Stein of Panbo recently wrote about his LED light project this year.](https://www.panbo.com/led-replacement-bulbs-the-options-get-better-and-cheaper/?ref=seabits.com) I’ve worked on lighting both on land and on boats for years. My current home has over 50 different lighting devices, most of which are controlled via voice or mobile apps. I love experimenting with new lighting ideas, colors, and products to try to make things more dynamic and interesting. On boats, I prefer not to use internet-enabled lighting for a couple of reasons. First, you have no guarantee that you will have internet access, and if that is absolutely required to turn your lights on and off, then it becomes a major nuisance, of not dangerous. Second, most of the internet-enabled lighting is AC-based and in many cases runs off of an AC-DC power supply that supplies 24-48v. That is extremely inefficient on a DC-based boat, even with a decent sized battery bank and inverter. For boat lighting, I think simpler is better – DC powered by 12v, and simple switches or local remotes. Constant current output is also very important on a boat with varying voltages being output by your battery bank. Any LED controller, bulb or fixture you buy should have this built into it. This allows it to use the varying voltages from your battery bank, but provides a constant output of 12v to the LED chips and drivers. Not having this either causes flickers or can overdrive the LEDs and burn them out faster. [Marinebeam has a good article on this](https://store.marinebeam.com/constant-current-1/?ref=seabits.com). Let’s get to the upgrades! ## Salon The salon is where we will spend most of our time, and as such it was the first place I focused my efforts. It had four overhead lights controlled by two switches on opposite sides of the room, and courtesy red lighting under the valances around the windows. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Salon-old-2-768x1024.jpg) Old overhead fixtures that had been updated with cool blue/white LED squares The overhead lights were relatively easy to update. The fixtures have two bayonet sockets on either side of the square glass in front of them, and the previous owner had put in LED square retrofits, but they were a very blue/cool white color, which I find harsh, and were also sitting on the glass and not attached, which meant you could really see the LEDs, and they moved around as the boat moved. I went back to bayonet style bulbs and used [Dr. LED warm white versions](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/dr-led-led-bulb-double-contact-bayonet-bulb-warm-white-9000128?ref=seabits.com). I had tried some cheaper ones, but the color was wrong, and several of them flickered when battery voltages changed. I think eventually I may swap out the actual glass in the fixtures, but that is a more involved project. Replacing the entire fixture is not on my radar, as they are 8″ x 8″ and would require patching or otherwise the headliner around them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Salon-old-red-1024x768.jpg) Old salon courtesy lighting The courtesy lights were something I was very excited about. They existed in the salon, galley, and master and guest staterooms. They were tailor made to be replaced with more modern LED strip lighting. Early on, I tested how much amperage these drew and was shocked – the four sets of red courtesy lights drew more than 20 amps of DC power! I assume these were original, and while probably pretty slick back in 1988, they were definitely not efficient! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Salon-strip-0-1024x768.jpg) Salon courtesy and overhead lights after upgrade I used the same RGB+Warm White strips and connectors I had on Grace, along with the [wide range RGBW controller](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/controllers/mini-rgbw-led-controller-wireless-rf-remote-w-dynamic-color-changing-modes/3270/6265/?ref=seabits.com), both from SuperBrightLEDs. The controller is important, as it can take from 6-24V DC and output constant 12V to the strip, ensuring consistent voltage to the chips so they don’t get overdriven. There are only two controllers in this setup, and one remote near the main switch. I was able to extend the strips a bit further than the original courtesy lighting. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Salon-strip-2-1024x768.jpg) The salon update is the most dramatic, and the most used. As I mentioned, we spend most of our time here, and having warm bright light from the four big square fixtures, along with tons of ambient light from the strip lighting that replaced the courtesy lighting. Most of the time, we only use the strip lighting and never turn on the overheads – it’s that much light. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Salon-new-3-1024x768.jpg) Of course, with the RGB controller, we can also set the lighting to other colors – I prefer blue for night mode. ## Galley In the galley we had a bit of a mess. There were wires hanging down over the prep area with a single LED light that was not really bright enough. Over the sink and stove there were compact fluorescent lights, probably original to the boat, and while they gave off more light than the LED fixture, they sucked a lot of power, and still weren’t that bright. I also don’t like how my food looks under fluorescent lights! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Galley-new-1-1024x768.jpg) After a bit of planning, I decided to move the LED light, which was a pretty good one, over the stove, since that light/circuit was tied to the galley blower fan. Then under the rest of the galley counter and surround, put two LED light strips controlled by my favorite RGB+W controller, bonded to one remote. This would give me tons of light in the galley, allow it to be dimmed if needed, and allow for red/blue night lights as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Galley-new-2-1024x768.jpg) Red night lighting in the galley ## Dinette ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Dinette-old-768x1024.jpg) Old compact fluorescent lighting in the dinette The dinette had old compact fluorescent lighting which worked OK, but I am not a fan of the color nor the power draw. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Dinette-1-1024x683.jpg) This one took a bit longer, but I ended up finding 11″ long LED bar lights from SuperBrightLED and was able to fit them in the mounting holes left by the existing ones. They were nicely trimmed in teak and inset, and I did not want to mess with that. Woodworking is not my forte. I do a ton of my work here – putting new electronics together, connecting tiny wires, writing articles, etc. and the increased lighting and warm color really made a big difference. I also put one of these in my electrical closet, which you can see to the right in this picture above the dinette seat. I also do a lot of work lately in that area, and the extra light has made a big difference. ## Heads In each head there are the ubiquitous 6″ chrome circular lights with a glass lens. These all had incandescent 12v lights in them which get quite hot, and need to be replaced pretty frequently. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Head-1-1024x683.jpg) Dr. LED has a good upgrade kit, as do many other folks, but I like theirs because it comes with sticky stuff to mount the circular disc in the light, and the lumens and quality of light they produce is just a bit better. I did try LunaSea and one other brand I forget, and I wasn’t as impressed with the brightness and color of the light. ## Master Stateroom This room had a few lights – overhead squares like the salon, courtesy lighting under the bed and cabinets, and a vanity light. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Master-01-1024x683.jpg) The overheads were upgraded just like the salon – removing the cool white squares and putting back warm white LED bayonet bulbs. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Vanity-1-1024x683.jpg) Vanity light updated with a 11″ LED bar light The vanity had a compact flourescent light just like the dinette. It was an easy update to the 11″ warm bar light, and tripled the light output. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Master-02-red-old-courtesy-1024x683.jpg) Old red courtesy lights in the master stateroom The master had a set of the red courtesy lights under the cabinets and entire bed structure and around the far corner. Turning these on drew 10 amps, so they definitely needed to be updated! I didn’t even know the boat came with them until I found a switch on the left hand side of the bed under the covers, but they are super helpful at night. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Master-20-new-lights-1024x683.jpg) New strip lights and overheads The strip lights were a breeze to add here too as it was already wired for the old red ones. I used two 16′ strips (one cut down slightly shorter for the cabinets) and two controllers paired to two remotes – one for each side of the bed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Master-21-new-no-overhead-1024x683.jpg) With the overheads off, it is even more dramatic. The camera makes it a bit more blown out than it really is. The wonderful thing is that there is enough light from the strips you don’t need hardly any other lights on to move around the room in the evening and find things in the lower cabinets. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Master-24-red-1024x683.jpg) And of course, we can change them to different colors for full night mode. Cameras always make the red ones look insane… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Master-23-blue-1024x683.jpg) Blue looks really nice in here at night, and you can tone it down to a very low brightness for sleep. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Master-bathroom-768x1024.jpg) A nice side effect is that the strips also point towards the master head, so at night when they are on, you have a path to the facilities if you need them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Reading-before-768x1024.jpg) The master also had reading lights that were very lethargic. We didn’t even bother using them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Reading-compared-768x1024.jpg) These were Edison-style screw in bulbs – you can see the new bulb on the left, and the old one (Dr. LED from a long while ago) on the right. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Reading-old-1-1024x768.jpg) Only about 1/2 of the LEDs worked in that light, which is why it was so dim, and they were that cool white again. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Reading-after-768x1024.jpg) The new bulbs consume about 3W and are equivalent to about a 25W incandescent. Really nice upgrade so you can have more directed light at the bedside with a low power draw. ## Guest Stateroom ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Reading-12v-old-768x1024.jpg) The guest stateroom had the same challenges as the master – overhead square fixture, red courtesy lights that ate power, and reading lights. In this room, though, there were still old 12v incandescent screw in bulbs in the reading lights, which were upgraded using the same Marinebeam replacement as the master. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Guest-1-1024x768.jpg) The overhead was the easy quick fix – again two new warm white bayonet bulbs were back in place. The courtesy lights were really what made the difference, as they did in the master. These were behind the edges above the bunks, and I replaced them with strip LED lighting, two controllers, and two remotes. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Guest-2-1024x768.jpg) The ambient light alone from those strips makes the room far more inviting and warm. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Guest-3-1024x768.jpg) Blue night lighting in the guest cabin ## Stern Swim Step The stern swim step on Rendezvous is how we get on the boat, and in the winter months, that is one dark location! It just so happened that there was a stern navigation light there that was obscured by the dinghy mount system, and I had planned on moving elsewhere. I traced the wires and found that I could run a 4′ section of outdoor, warm white LED strip under the rail right in the center of the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Stern-1-1024x768.jpg) The result is a lot of light all along the swim step. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Stern-10-683x1024.jpg) This has really improved getting on and off the boat safely. Even though it only is in the center of the rail, it still provides plenty of light. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Stern-21-1024x683.jpg) I only put it in the center, as the door into the cockpit interrupts where I would have continued running it, and I didn’t want an off center light – that would drive me insane! ## Arch / Sundeck The arch above the sundeck had indoor bathroom/general purpose 6″ chrome lights with cool white LED squares in them. Besides not being weatherproof, the light was the wrong color and not that bright. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Arch-1-1024x683.jpg) I tried a couple of other solutions and wasn’t happy. I eventually found a [3.5″ weatherproof puck light from Marinebeam](https://store.marinebeam.com/15-led-3-25-waterproof-surface-mount-puck-light-cl-80-15/?ref=seabits.com) that was warm white and a healthy 280 lumens. It would cover the 2″ holes that were behind the existing lights. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Arch-done-1-1024x768.jpg) I was really surprised at how much brighter they were than the original lights. I did purchase 3, and am thinking of putting a third in the middle to make it even brighter. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Arch-done-2-1024x768.jpg) The light not only lights up the sun deck, but even more of the flybridge, and the steps up from the cockpit. ## Remote Control ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Key-Fob-1024x768.jpg) Both the stern swim step and arch lights are remotely controllable via a fob that I have on my keys. I wanted this so that when I arrive/leave, whether at a dock or at anchor, that I can have a clearly lighted path on and off the boat. I searched for various solutions to this problem, and found some marine-style products that looked OK, but were very outdated and expensive. After a few queries on Amazon, I found a [very highly rated system from Solidremote](https://amzn.to/2tJYcQV?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Remote-light-fob-1024x683.jpg) It was super easy to install, and has two relays to control two circuits. All I needed to do was provide it 12V DC power and then splice into the two circuits for the stern light and arch lights and run them up to the tiny Solidremote box. You can program the relays to each of the four lettered buttons in different ways, and it comes with 2 fobs. I have one fob velcroed into the electrical panel so that folks can turn them on/off there, and one on my main set of keys. I was really surprised at the range – about 300 feet on my dock, and longer out at anchor where there isn’t as much interference. Of all of the updates I did to lighting, this one is my favorite because I can walk/dinghy up to the boat in the dark, light up the whole outside to make sure I am safe to get on. When I leave, I can have all the lights on, get far enough away, and turn everything off. ## Deck Lights ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Deck-light-1024x683.jpg) There are two deck lights on either walkway up to the bow, both which had stopped working. I cleaned out their covers and found a lot of water leakage which I will be addressing later in the spring when temps are warmer. I did find a bayonet style tiny LED light, again from Dr. LED, that worked here, as well as in the AC/DC electrical panel light. They are very bright warm light and help to light the path up to the bow. I may replace these with strips running around the outer edge of the entire upper section of the boat, but haven’t quite figured that design out yet. ## Engine Room The engine room lighting was a disaster lighting-wise. There were three more of the 6″ chrome all purpose lights, two of which did not regularly work. There were also two AC-only fluorescent lights on either side of the engine room which gave some light, but burned a lot of power. It was very dark pretty much anywhere. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Engine-2-1024x683.jpg) I chose to use the [Dr. LED “Gold Standard” engine room lights](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/dr-led-the-gold-standard-overhead-light-9000500?ref=seabits.com), which are a bit pricey at about $95 each. But they were worth it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Engine-1-1024x683.jpg) I put three in the engine room where the old lights were, and it really made a huge difference. I can see just about everywhere, and because you can dim them by using a switch sequence when first turning them on, can set them lower to save power usage as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Engine-red-1-1024x683.jpg) Also with a switch sequence, you can turn them red, which I find also useful if you happen to be underway at night and still want lighting in the engine room, or if you just want to impress people. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Engine-red-2-1024x683.jpg) More red engine room lighting ## Navigation & Anchor Lights I left one of the usual ones to last, both because many people have already done this, and because some folks consider it controversial to update existing fixtures using after market LEDs. I think it is a good idea to update them even though you are likely to have your engine on and alternator charging while using them, and aren’t worried about the power draw. First, you will often forget to turn them off (I have) and if they’re not LED, they wear out faster. Second, you may also not use the navigation lights that often (I don’t) and by having LEDs, you can be more sure they will work when you need them. For me, it is more about the fact that LEDs are more likely to work, be just as bright (if purchased correctly) than anything about power savings. Anchor lights are a different scenario covered below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Nav-10-1024x683.jpg) I chose highly rated replacement bulbs from Marinebeam. I have fixtures from a German company that are very similar, if not identical in the bases and mounting, to Aqua Signal series 41 lights. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Nav-compared-1024x683.jpg) Marinebeam LED compared to Aqua Signal 25W In fact, the fixtures had Aqua Signal 25W incandescent bulbs in them. The Marinebeam lights were the same type of base if not a bit bigger around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Nav-after-1024x683.jpg) Before and after comparison For the port and starboard lights, I chose the matching red/green LED light bulb. Most manufacturers will warn you not to use bright white bulbs, but instead use ones matched to the lens color. You can see above the difference in before/after. The camera distorts it somewhat, but the light is definitely brighter to my eye with the LED bulb, and has a slightly more green tint to it. Same with the red, although I did not bother to take a picture as cameras make red lights at night look bizarre. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Nav-light-768x1024.jpg) For my steaming light and stern light, I chose bright white lights, although I have not been able to do much but test them a few times. My steaming and stern lights are going to be relocated with the addition of a new radar and tower, happening in the next month. However, the quality and brightness of the light exceeds the Aqua Signal incandescent by far. For my anchor light, I have two choices that I am evaluating. First, one of the above bright white lights was used the last couple of times we were out in November, and it was amazingly bright, but used a decent amount of power (5.2 watts) overnight. The second is also from Marinebeam, but is their [dusk-to-dawn anchor light](https://store.marinebeam.com/dusk-to-dawn-automatic-photocell-led-anchor-light-bulb/?ref=seabits.com). This is a neat little light that is about half the wattage and lumens as the above super bright one, and has a sensor in it to turn on at dusk and off at dawn, saving power and from you having to remember it is on. It definitely is a bit darker – we tested it the last 2 nights we were out – but it is supposed to meet the 2NM rule. I think I will keep both on hand for now, and might switch to the bright one if I am on a longer trip with lots of anchorages and traffic. ## Other Lights ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Electrical-panel-light-1024x683.jpg) There were a few other lights such as the electrical panel, closet lights, and the like that I was able to find replacement bulbs for. Most of the bulbs were listed as navigation light replacements, but they work fine in these spaces as well, albeit a bit brighter than the originals, which I’m fine with. I even upgraded the dummy/alarm lights on my engine control panels with LED versions so I know they will always work. ## Other Lighting Projects There are no other existing lights that need to be upgraded to LED – Rendezvous is now a 100% LED boat. However, there are a couple of additional lighting projects on my list to do, hopefully this winter/spring. **Flybridge** – this has absolutely no lighting, other than the instrument lighting. So far, the best solution I can find is to run an LED strip light on the forward face of the arch. I have two RGB+Warm White outdoor strips and controllers I’ve never used, and I think this would be a perfect place for them. The light **Bow** – there is no lighting at the bow at all. I have two deck/search lights that I bought and will be testing from the flybridge area. Ideally I would like some bright lights to illuminate the anchor area in case of having to do something there in the dark of night. **Deck lights / accent** – the two deck lights I listed above having replaced are nice, but they are not well designed and fill with water. Since there is wiring there, I’m contemplating removing the fixtures and running LED strip lighting down the entire side and even maybe around the front/brow of the entire outside. This would require some creative thinking as RGB+W has 5 wires, and exposing the controller and wiring to the elements would likely kill it. ## Results I am very happy with the overall results. The light is warmer everywhere, and can be dimmed and controlled. I can change lights to various colors throughout the boat as well. I’ve improved safety in many areas by having more light, or light where there was none before, and provided a way to control it remotely when approaching the boat. I’ve also dramatically reduced the amount of power we use, which means less generator time, and more battery power for other things. The crew love it too, and the more homey and comfortable feeling it has given us in the salon, and cozy feeling in the berths. Updating your lighting to LED does not have to be massively expensive. I spent around $1500 for all of the updates and upgrades which is a pretty small amount considering other projects. Replacing bulbs with quality new LED options saves you a lot of money long-term, yet still gives you warm, normal lighting. Adding strips is also a relatively expensive way to add a lot of ambient light, which every boat could benefit from. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [David Geller](http://eyejot.com/users/davidg?ref=seabits.com) [September 5, 2019 at 6:41 am](https://seabits.com/new-lighting-everywhere/#comment-244) Steve – Nice new name for the site! Went back to read this and this seems like one of those boat projects that has relatively small cost and risk but delivers big, noticeable results. So that I understand things properly I thought I’d ask a simple question. Specifically, if I wanted to run some strip LED lighting I’d pickup a controller (Mini RGBW LED Controller) and select some strip lights, wire them directly into 12V and go – correct? What’s the best way to mount the light strips to the underside of counters and hidden ceiling areas? Do you recommend the “tape” strips? And, do I just find my 12V wires and connect, or should I home-run to my panel and have it sit behind a fuse? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 4, 2019 at 6:27 am](https://seabits.com/new-lighting-everywhere/#comment-245) Thanks! I agree on the impact of this sort of project – it is one of the reasons that in my homes and boats and everywhere else, I usually address lighting very early in the ownership process. I am very, very particular about lighting things appropriately, usually indirectly, and the quality and controllability of the light. If you get a good controller, they will take varying DC input voltages and ensure that a consistent voltage (usually 12V) is sent to the LED strip. Without this, you may experience flickering or inconsistencies in other ways depending on the controller. Most LED strips come with adhesive on the back that you can remove so you can install them pretty much anywhere. That’s how I installed all of mine throughout the boat. Depending on the controller and where the light is, you may want to add an in-line fuse close to the controller. Most of my lights already have switches and fuses so I didn’t need to add any except in the galley. ### Monitor your engine with the Actisense EMU-1 URL: https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:16:48.000Z The engine is a critical piece of every boat, and monitoring it is very important to health and longevity, as well as your safety while on the water. It’s surprising how few boats leverage the ability to have this information on a NMEA 2000 network to provide total visibility and improve that monitoring. Many engines built after 2005 have some sort of digital interface built into them that you can tap into to see tons of great information. An example is [J1939](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE%5FJ1939?ref=seabits.com) which you can use [Maretron’s J2K100](https://www.maretron.com/products/j2k100.php?ref=seabits.com) or [Yacht Devices Engine Gateway](http://www.yachtd.com/products/engine%5Fgateway.html?ref=seabits.com) to convert and place on your NMEA 2000 network. Older engines may support [J1708](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE%5FJ1708?ref=seabits.com) and [Yacht Devices has a gateway](http://www.yachtd.com/products/j1708%5Fgateway.html?ref=seabits.com) for that too. My Volvo engine on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), which was new in 2008, had an optional NMEA 2000 adapter that you could purchase for $800 that would plug directly into the engine harness, and then into the NMEA 2000 network. Unfortunately a bunch of the data that I really wanted, like exhaust temperature and fuel flow, were not available even with the adapter. The other concerning thing was alarms – the adapter passed the data along for various things like coolant temp and oil pressure, but did not use any of the NMEA 2000 PGNs for alarms associated with those. Perhaps that was changed in a future version, but that was a big oversight in my opinion. Generators are also a great target for an engine monitor. Many of them have basic control panels exposed outside of the engine space where they live, and are not necessarily near your driving station. Using an engine monitor could bring the data from that generator to your driving station, and sound louder alarms to let you know something might be awry. A few companies have built gateways that can help with engines that may not have modern digital interfaces. The three I have used are the [NoLand RS-11](https://www.nolandeng.com/rs11.php?ref=seabits.com), [AlbaCombi](http://www.albacombi.com/?ref=seabits.com), and the [Actisense EMU-1](https://www.actisense.com/product/emu-1/?ref=seabits.com). Most of my experience has been with the NoLand RS-11 and Actisense EMU-1. I’ve setup and configured a number of NoLand RS-11’s on other boats, and helped keep them calibrated and updated for the first few months afterwards. I’ve personally owned the Actisense EMU-1 and run it on two boats for almost a year, as well as installed and configured even more on other folks boats. ## The Challenge ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Rendezvous-Volvo-Penta-engine-gauges-1024x683.jpg) Volvo Penta engine gauges on Rendezvous When I bought [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), I knew right away I wanted engine monitoring in place beyond the gauges provided. The salon helm station had gauges and indicator lights for just about everything, which was perfect, but I had no reason to trust them, and I would not be driving from this location, but instead from the flybridge most of the time. Available at this location is RPM, engine hours, battery voltage, oil pressure, water temperature, turbo pressure, transmission pressure, an alarm horn, and four alarm/dummy lights for low oil pressure, high water temp, low battery charge, and the preheater being engaged (which didn’t light up as I covered in my recent article about the [preheater melty mess](https://seabits.com/boat-exploration-a-shock-and-a-fire/)). That is a lot of good info, but are they all accurate? Do all the alarm lights work (no) and will the alarm horn go off when they are on? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Rendezvous-Volvo-Penta-gauges-flybridge-1024x683.jpg) Flybridge station At the flybridge station, there are a simplified version of the same gauges, with turbo pressure and transmission pressure missing. There are also a similar set of alarm/dummy lights and alarm horn, but I have been unable to determine whether they work reliably as well. In addition, the gauges are somewhat obscured by the control levers for the engine, particularly the gear shifts, which when engaged in forward, block most of the gauges for the port engine, and the throttles block the RPM gauge for the starboard – slightly annoying, and in the case of the temp gauge for the port engine, not safe. ## The Goals With this project, I was trying to achieve several things: ### Alarms First and foremost, I wanted to have accurate, loud and networked alarms for anything critical around the engines. The current alarms are all dummy lights and a horn at each station, but I don’t know if they work reliably. An engine monitor can tap into existing alarm wiring and provide an extra level of redundancy when there is a true alarm. Having it connected and configured correctly allows all of the devices on the network that support engine data to start screaming when there is an issue. ### Accuracy I have no reason to trust the gauges that came with the boat, although they appeared to be in good order. I ran the boat for about 10 hours observing both upper and lower stations at various times, and paid very close attention to the deviations between locations as well as general data. Using an engine monitor will allow me to get the raw electrical signal from the senders on the engine and interpret them directly, not with a gauge that could be old or not working as well. ### Visibility If you’ve read any of my other articles, you know I am big on networking everything possible. The same goes for engine data – I want it on every instrument and device that I have across the boat. Right now, that means I can see engine data on my chart plotters, my Maretron DSM display, my Surface Pro PC, on SignalK’s Instrument Panel, and via WilhelmSK on my iPhone and iPad. ## Choosing an Engine Monitor Since I had the chance to work with the top three gateways out there, that helped when it was time to choose what I wanted to put on my own boat. I like the AlbaCombi because of the built-in web interface, which makes it easy to configure, and simple to see the gauges via a smart phone or PC. But it requires a lot of manual configuration and trial and error for the types of inputs that you’re supplying. It does have some extra inputs the other devices don’t have for things like temperature and the like, but I would prefer to have that elsewhere anyhow. The NoLand RS-11 is the cheapest of the three by quite a bit, which is important if you are on a budget. It requires Windows software and a provided USB cable to configure, but still requires a lot of manual trial and error to get the sensors setup correctly. There is a learning mode which can help, but in my experience, this is not 100% reliable. The Actisense EMU-1 is the most costly of the three, not only requiring you have the unit itself, but also an Actisense gateway to configure it. But, compared to the other two, configuring the types of gauges and inputs is far simpler and more reliable to setup. The unit itself appears to be a higher quality overall, not just in configuration. This is one of those cases where you get what you pay for – an easier setup experience and higher quality product. I chose to put the Actisense EMU-1 on my previous boat, [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), and ran it there for a whole season. When I sold her, I took it with me, and moved it to [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Actisense-EMU-1-close-up-before-install-1024x768.jpg) The EMU-1 has a NMEA 2000 connection on the bottom, a transparent case that allows you to see lots of blinky lights and circuit boards, and a cover that provides protection and strain relief for the various wires that will be heading into the terminals. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Actisense-EMU-1-close-up-without-cover-1024x768.jpg) The EMU-1 has a bunch of connections available, summarized below: PWR – power provided ideally by the ignition for your engine, so the device is only on when the engine is on. GAUGE – there are 6 different connections here, allowing you to digitize 6 separate gauges, which is quite a bit! ALARM – there are four alarm points, one wire each, and usually voltage high/low related. TACH – as you might guess, this is for the tachometers for your engine(s). There are two available here, consisting of 4 wires total (2 for each tach sender) AUX – these are not used right now. ## Planning the Installation Installing the EMU-1 does require a bit of planning, mainly around where you are going to site the monitor itself, and how it will get the data from the existing engine senders and gauges. ### What is a sender? A sender is the device or sensor that is in a particular place on your engine that is generating an electrical signal based on what it is monitoring. A good example is a temperature sender, which generally sits somewhere in your cooling loop and monitors the temperature of the water passing by. That is translated into an electrical signal which flows up to the gauge at your helm. I prefer installing engine monitors near the back of the gauges at a helm station, if at all possible. This allows you to connect to the wiring very easily, and has the device in a relatively decent location temperature wise. In some situations, siting the EMU-1 near the engine or in the engine room may be suitable as well. If you do not have gauges at all, which is common on older boats if things have been redone or removed, then placing them near the senders in the engine room is also an option. Just make sure it is dry and does not get too hot. You also may need to verify that your senders / gauges will work with the EMU-1\. There is a list of supported ones at the [Actisense FAQ](https://www.actisense.com/faq/?product=emu-1&ref=seabits.com) (scroll down and expand “What gauges are compatible with the EMU-1”), but there is also a [beta firmware version available](https://desk.zoho.eu/portal/actisense/kb/articles/emu-1-custom-gauge-tool?ref=seabits.com) that allows you to manually create your own gauges and program them from there. Mine are all Volvo / VDO gauges, so I should be good! ### Getting the data in… One of the biggest things you’ll have to determine when installing any engine monitor is how you will get the sender and other data into the device – how you will connect to the senders/wires. For the EMU-1, you can either connect it directly to the sender, disconnecting your existing gauges, or tap into the existing wire and allow the gauges and the EMU-1 to co-exist. Some gauges and setups may not work with this, but most in my experience will be just fine. This is an important thing to plan, however – if you can’t interrupt or tap off the existing wires easily, you may have to think of another way to install things. Check your shop or maintenance manual to make sure there won’t be an issue with your wiring/gauges. It also can be scary to cut a wire that is coming from your engine to a gauge – I would recommend using an in-line tap connector where it can pierce the existing wire and allow you to attach a new wire without cutting the existing one completely. That way, if you decide to remove the system, or don’t need it anymore, you can tape off the wire you added without having to reconnect anything. ### Input Plan Here is my plan for what each input will be used for: Gauges G1 – Port Engine Temperature G2 – Port Engine Oil Pressure G3 – Port Engine Boost Pressure (Turbo Pressure) G4 – Starboard Engine Temperature G5 – Starboard Engine Oil Pressure G6 – Starboard Engine Boost Pressure (Turbo Pressure) Alarms A1 – Port Engine Over Temperature A2 – Port Engine Low Oil Pressure A3 – Starboard Engine Over Temperature A4 – Port Engine Low Oil Pressure Tachometers T1 – Port Engine RPM T2 – Starboard Engine RPM In all cases, the port engine will be NMEA 2000 instance 0, and the starboard engine will be instance 1\. I’ve verified that each of these gauges have one input wire, that there are working dummy lights for the alarms, and that there are two sense wires for the tachometers. I chose the three critical gauges from each engine that I thought should always be on the network. One side benefit is that turbo pressure (boost pressure) is something I cannot see while driving at the flybridge, but I should be able to see now via an MFD at that station! I also did not choose to put transmission pressure on the network, namely because I was out of inputs, and I have never seen this vary nor matter that much for critical engine stuff. Doing this pre-planning will ensure that the wiring will go quickly, and that your boat is actually compatible with the EMU-.1 ## Installation ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Rendezvous-salon-gauges-open-1024x696.jpg) I really lucked out with Rendezvous – the whole gauge panel unscrews with 6 screws, and tips forward to rest on the plastic cover of my compass. Score! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Rendezvous-salon-gauges-open-access-768x1024.jpg) Not only does it open easily, but I can get to the backs of every single gauge quite easily, and there is space on the far right for the EMU-1…. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Actisense-EMU-1-installed-close-1024x683.jpg) Installation of the EMU-1 itself is easy – four screws to hold it down in a secure location, here pictured on a bulkhead behind my gauge dashboard. I have a NMEA 2000 backbone nearby, and connected the EMU-1 directly with a drop cable. Power is important to get right with the EMU-1 – it needs to be provided by the circuit that is engaged when you turn your engine on. In my case, I have two engines, so I chose the port engine (which for some reason I turn on first all the time) and tapped into the power wires from that ignition so that the EMU-1 powers on when that key is in the run position. It is also important that the ground for all of the gauges, engines, and connections are the same. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Actisense-EMU-1-connector-blocks-1024x768.jpg) One thing I really like about the EMU-1 is the removable terminal blocks that allow for easier wiring. Even though I had a good place to mount mine, I still had to be on a stool to get to all of the wires on the backs of the gauges, and having to do that while also reaching into the EMU-1 for the other end would have been murder on my back. Other installations I’ve done have not been as easy to get to, and the other products are quite a bit more difficult to fit all those wires into, and screw them down. Having the removable blocks allows for a lot easier install. I chose to “tap into” the existing wires going to the backs of the gauges at this helm station. I did not cut into them, but used tap connectors and new wire to run to the EMU-1. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Actisense-EMU-1-installed-wide-1024x682.jpg) I ended up with a mix of wiring based on the location of the gauges. For the port engine, I used individual 18 AWG wire, while for a portion of the starboard engine, I was able to use a shielded 4 wire cable to save on individual runs. Now that it is all connected, it’s time to configure the device itself and ensure the data it is putting on the NMEA 2000 network is correct! ## Configuration Configuring the EMU-1, and for that matter, any engine monitor, is the most critical and usually most time consuming part of the setup. Understanding which gauges and sender data you have is important to ensure that the data you’re putting on the NMEA 2000 network is correct. Getting the voltages and states of the alarm relays is also very important, or the alarms will be quite messed up. Actisense provides a Windows-based program called the [Actisense Toolkit](https://www.actisense.com/media/?product=emu-1&type=downloads&ref=seabits.com) that can be used to configure the EMU-1\. You will also need an [Actisense NGT-1 gateway](https://www.actisense.com/product/nmea-2000-to-pc-interface-ngt-1/?ref=seabits.com) to configure the EMU-1\. It is a bit more expensive to have to purchase the NGT-1, but I already had one as I consider it a must-have device when you have a decent sized NMEA 2000 network. Not only can you use it with a PC to configure the EMU-1, but also as a direct link into your NMEA 2000 for navigation software like TimeZero or Coastal Explorer, or as a link to a Raspberry Pi running SignalK. If you’re using a more modern Windows machine and running Windows 10, you may need to adjust the way that the Actisense toolkit is run to ensure drop downs and data within the program look correct. This has to do with Windows font and screen scaling. I’m using a Surface Pro, which has a resolution of 3000×2000 and uses 200% font scaling, which really plays havoc with the Toolkit. To fix this: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/01-Actisense-Toolkit-program-1024x793.png) Find the Actisense Toolkit executable program, usually in C:\\Program Files (x86)\\Actisense\\Actisense Toolkit. Right click and choose properties. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/02-Actisense-compatibility.png) From the resulting properties dialog, go to Compatibility, and click on “Change high DPI settings” ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/03-Actisense-compatibility-override.png) Choose the last check box on the page “Override high DPI scaling behavior” and choose “System (Enhanced)” which is the best choice I’ve found. You could try other settings if it does not work on your system. This will allow you to see all of the fields and drop downs appropriately in the Toolkit. If you don’t do this, you may not be able to see all of the available options, or type data into the right fields to set things up. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Actisense-toolkit-main-screen-1024x656.png) Once you launch the toolkit, you’ll need to choose the NGT-1 device you have connected to your computer to connect to your NMEA 2000 network. As soon as that is active, you’ll start to see all of the devices on your network, plus at the bottom of the screen the actual bus load and PC load. This can be useful when debugging NMEA 2000 network issues. In addition, you can upgrade and downgrade firmware using the toolkit as well. My EMU-1 came with the most recent available firmware. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/49-Actisense-toolkit-reading-blocks-1024x837.png) To start configuring things, you’ll need to click on the Actisense EMU-1 gateway device, and then click on “Load from Device” at the top of the toolbar. The NGT-1 will communicate with the EMU-1 and download the current running configuration. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Default-EMU1-configuration-1024x653.jpg) You’ll be presented with a pane in the middle of the toolkit that shows all of the inputs and settings you can adjust. The screen shot above is from when I was configuring the EMU-1 on my previous boat, Grace. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/50-Actisense-toolkit-gauge-options-1024x666.png) The way this tool works is pretty simple. First you choose the Instance (NMEA 2000 instance type) that you want. In single engine configurations this likely will all be instance 0\. For my dual engines, I will be using 0 for port, and 1 for starboard engines. Second is the Parameter, which you can think of as the data that is going to be put on the NMEA 2000 network. It is what the gauge is representing or displaying. Third is the Gauge or Trigger. In the case of the Gauge, it is asking what sort of gauge is in place now, which helps the EMU-1 understand what type of sender is at the other end, and what sort of electrical pulses are coming along the wire. We will cover trigger later. You may notice there is a Battery Voltage item at the top. This is a nice feature if you do not have a battery monitor on board already, as it takes the voltage from the power supply provided to the EMU-1 (in this case my port engine ignition) and puts that onto the NMEA 2000 network as battery instance 0\. You can change that if you already have a battery monitor (and you should otherwise it will garble your data) to another instance type. I labeled this one on other instruments as “Start Battery”. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/51-Actisense-toolkit-gauge-options-gauge-1024x666.png) For my first gauge, G1, I am setting it up for the Port Engine (0) and for Engine Temperature. When I get to the Gauge dropdown, I am choosing the VDO/Volvo gauge. Here is where some experimentation may be necessary. There are quite a few gauge types to choose from including 12v and 24v, plus different manufacturers. I was guessing that the VDO/Volvo EU gauges were likely correct since my boat was built in Taiwan, but had Volvo engines and the gauges were Volvo with both US and EU markings. However, if you do not know definitively what gauges you have, you may need to do some experimentation. Here’s how I did it for a number of other boats: - Choose a gauge type in the toolkit that you think is right - Send the configuration to the EMU-1 (don’t forget to do this or the change won’t take) - Wait 5-10 seconds for new data to get onto NMEA 2000 network - Using a chart plotter, PC with SignalK or other display, examine the displayed data and compare it to your existing gauges This was the best way to ensure that the data you’re getting is accurate and correct. Keep in mind you also may need to do this at various times while the engines are in use, as gauge values may start out looking right, but get very wrong (high/low/jumping around) as the gauge moves up the scale. I left “Current Feed” at auto since it is the best option when tapping into existing sender lines. There is also a [beta firmware version available](https://desk.zoho.eu/portal/actisense/kb/articles/emu-1-custom-gauge-tool?ref=seabits.com) that allows you to manually create your own gauges and program them manually, but it is beta firmware so your mileage may vary. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/53-Actisense-toolkit-alarm-types-1024x666.png) Alarm types are similar to gauges in that you have to chose the Parameter or type of alarm that you want to put on the NMEA 2000 network. In my case, A1 is supposed to be port engine (instance 0) over temperature. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/54-Actisense-toolkit-alarm-trigger-1024x666.png) The trigger is where it may get a bit confusing. The way the EMU-1 creates an alarm on the NMEA 2000 network is by sensing the voltage of the alarm dummy light circuit. In my case, my alarm lights are always at around 12 volts (depending on the battery charge, etc.) on the negative side, which is the part I can tap into. When the light is lit up, the voltage on that side drops to below 5v. You can see above that I’m configuring the alarm to fire when below 5v is detected on that input. While I appreciate this is a good way to trigger an alarm, I would like to see Actisense, and for that matter, chart plotter manufacturers implement something different. The NoLand RS-11 has a feature wherein you can input the low/high amount for a given monitored input. If that input goes above/below those thresholds, a NMEA 2000 alarm PGN is generated on the network (essentially what the EMU-1 is doing with the Alarm inputs) and you are aware something bad is happening. I’ve seen some chart plotters that allow you to set thresholds, but most are now reliant on a device such as your engine, or an engine monitor, to put those PGNs on the network when there is a problem. Since the EMU-1 is that device in my case, I would love to have the ability to set those in the firmware, rather than driving them off of dummy light voltage alone. I think having both is a good idea for safety! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/51-Actisense-toolkit-gauge-options-gauge-1024x666.png) The final configuration item is for your tachometers, and requires a Pulses Per Revolution Ratio. In many cases, your shop or maintenance manual will have this information in it (most CAT engines do) but if it does not, you can either experiment using the same process as above (time consuming!) or [see if your PPR is listed on a chart I found online](http://www.aetnaengineering.com/content/images/2016/01/PPR-Engine-Applications2012.pdf?ref=seabits.com). This chart has been a lifesaver when installing any engine monitor. Most of the time, you can find one for your engine, and things will work great. If you get out on the water after installing the EMU-1 or any other engine monitor, and you see tachometer readings go from something sensible to 15,000 RPM or something insane, you have the wrong ratio. Sometimes this only happens at higher RPMs where the math gets messed up. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/55-Actisense-toolkit-programming-1024x666.png) Once you are done, make sure to send the configuration to the device by choosing that option in the toolbar. You will also be prompted to save the configuration to your PC when you exit the toolkit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/61-Actisense-toolkit-configuration-1024x666.png) Above is my completed configuration for both engines. ## Testing and Results I’ve had the EMU-1 running on my boat now for a year, first on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) for the entire 2018 season, and for a month or so on [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/). Grace had chart plotters from Raymarine, Garmin and B&G, a Maretron display, and of course SignalK and various web and iOS apps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Maretron-engine-display-actisense-1024x683.jpg) Rendezvous has a Maretron display, Raymarine es78 chart plotter, and SignalK. I’m still building out my network to include more devices, but even with these I was able to see various representations of the data the EMU-1 was putting on the network. Above I have configured a 4 cell screen with data from the port engine including engine/coolant temperature in the upper left, oil pressure in the upper right, boost pressure in the lower left (I was at the dock so this won’t be showing anything useful) and an RPM gauge in the bottom right. Interestingly, both the temperature and oil pressure were a bit different than what my analog gauges were showing. The coolant seemed to be higher than what the gauges were indicating. Once I got to about 150 degrees F on the Maretron/EMU-1, the gauge was probably 20 degrees behind it. Unfortunately the gauge itself has a very narrow band of points between 100-150, and then a similar space between that and 210, with additional temps beyond that. I wish it had less of the upper range so I could see it more granularly, but I don’t have to now since it is on the network! Oil pressure was lower than the gauge was showing by quite a bit. The gauges read near 60 while this was closer to 30\. I am still going to be investigating this as I use the EMU-1 longer term on Rendezvous. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/IMG_1324-768x1024.jpg) EMU-1 installed on Grace, my previous sailboat Grace had the EMU-1 installed on her for almost a year, and I saw no anomalies once I tuned the gauge types and PPR for my tachometer. It did take a bit longer to get things working correctly because the gauges were from Yanmar and didn’t match the initial profile I thought they would work with. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/Raymarine-es78-engine-display-actisense-1024x683.jpg) EMU-1 data on my Raymarine es78 Raymarine’s Lighthouse 3 software has a nice dual engine display in the Dashboards section. Above you can see both port and starboard engine RPMs in the middle, and around the outside edge the oil pressure on the left, coolant temp on the right. I just wish you could resize some of these, or disable some of the items you don’t have (trim tabs) on the network. In addition to this data, when an alarm occurs, the Raymarine displays a huge red bar across the bottom of the screen and beeps, also citing the current value for whatever item is alarming. This is nice if you have both the data for the item, like coolant temperature, and the alarm configured. Not only are you alerted to the fact that something is wrong, but it pops up a big numeric value for what the temperature actually is, making troubleshooting the issue much easier. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/01/WilhelmSK-engine-display-alarm-actisense-1024x768.jpg) WilhelmSK using SignalK server to grab data off the NMEA 2000 network I have a Raspberry Pi running SignalK on Rendezvous, and always use my favorite iOS app WilhelmSK to see data from the server. Above I’ve configured a screen to show the engine data in the top two rows. The engine hours are off because I used it on Grace initially and didn’t reset the hours. ## Final thoughts I consider an engine monitor a required piece of equipment on any boat that has older engines. It provides better visibility and clearer alarms across a wider range of electronics so you know more about the performance, and potential problems, with your engines. The Actisense EMU-1 is the best solution on the market for this need. It has ample connections for gauges, alarms, and dual engine tachometers. It has a secure and easy to use cable system, clear indicator lights showing you what is going on, and a library of gauges to choose from to make configuration easier. I’m very happy with having my engine data on my network, including some data I didn’t have at my flybridge station, and I know it will keep me safer and better in tune with how my engines are performing for years to come. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Ben Ellison [February 3, 2019 at 9:13 pm](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/#comment-323) Wow, Steve, this is an amazingly thorough explanation of EMU-1 why and how. But I have something to add. In my view the hidden jewel in the system you’ve installed is that now you can set up engine warnings that might save you from ever having to deal with critical alarms. For instance, on Gizmo I get alerted if the coolant temp gets even a little higher than normal, which is way below the High Temp alarm value set by the engine manufacturer. I keep hoping that the MFD brands will make this easier, but Maretron already does. I discuss here: [https://www.panbo.com/mfd-engine-monitoring-better-but/](https://www.panbo.com/mfd-engine-monitoring-better-but/?ref=seabits.com) - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 3, 2019 at 6:29 am](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/#comment-324) Great point Ben – being able to set other thresholds on other devices to prevent ever getting to the high water mark. I also agree and wish that other manufacturers allowed you to do this more easily. Larry O'Keefe [February 21, 2019 at 1:43 pm](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/#comment-308) Steve, what kind of tap connectors did you use? Larry N5012 Miss Miranda Anacortes, WA - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 21, 2019 at 6:29 am](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/#comment-309) I used Ancor marine-grade splice connectors like these [https://amzn.to/2Elpymv](https://amzn.to/2Elpymv?ref=seabits.com) You definitely have to install them correctly – very tight crimp – and ensure that your wire will work with the size they come in. Some people hate these things but that is usually because they are used to splice power circuits over and over in cars and RVs. Since these wires are low voltage, I’m OK with them. I also wrap each one in vinyl tape to ensure waterproof connections just in case. Joel Flores [June 14, 2020 at 6:59 am](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/#comment-120) Hello steve, Nice details on your explanations towards the Actisense EMU-1, i was wondering if how did you trace up your panels on the tachometer, I have a newly bought EMU-1 and im trying to put it to place onboard my VDO Gauges on the helm, i have twin 1080 hp MAN D2840 LE 403 engines, aboard Sunseeker Manhattan 64, i hope you can help me out. Thank you and God Bless! \-Joel Flores, Subic Bay, Philippines Garett davis [July 2, 2020 at 4:37 pm](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/#comment-103) Hello Steve, we are thinking of installing a emu1 on Volvo md2030 we want to run some gauges off off the raymarine panel through nemea connection . we would need temp and oil pressure sending units is this going to work ? any feedback would be helpful thank you Garett Glen [July 15, 2020 at 5:08 pm](https://seabits.com/monitor-your-engine-with-the-actisense-emu-1/#comment-95) Great article! Very detailed and easy to understand. Too bad the manufacture, is not able to convey this information as nice as you have. I’m finding it hard to find good installation and setup info from the manufacture Actisense themselves. I’m in the process of getting ready to install my new EMU-1 tomorrow on my single engine sailboat. I have tach, oil pressure, engine temp high temp alarm, low oil pressure alarm and fuel level. I’ll be taping off of the back of my existing gauges. I’m using all Raymarine gear. For the tach it has a pickup that senses the teeth on the flywheel of the engine. I’ll have to figure out how many teeth are on that wheel. Glen ### Portable low-power espresso on the boat with Nanopresso URL: https://seabits.com/portable-low-power-espresso-on-the-boat-with-nanopresso/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:29:30.000Z My crew and friends will attest that I love coffee, and need it to get started first thing in the day. I have always loved coffee, but in particular, I love espresso. Either on its own, or made in a latte with wonderful micro-foam, normal coffee just doesn’t do it for me anymore, and hasn’t for at least 10 years. To further educate you on my espresso passion, 6 years ago, I purchased a full sized La Marzocco commercial dual head machine and installed it in my apartment. It was a 4500W machine which required a dedicated, 30 amp 220VAC outlet – hard to find in a rented apartment. But that didn’t stop me from wiring one in! I finagled my way into a local coffee shop that I loved, and spent several weeks learning from patient baristas all of the tricks with the machine, coffee, grinder, and the milk side of the latte. After spending a very caffeinated weekend honing my skills, I settled into my morning routine – get up, stumble into the kitchen, turn the unit on, go take a shower, watch the lights blink as the heater sucked huge amounts of power, and 15-30 minutes later, it was ready to use! Then came the hard part – prior to coffee, I am not very detail oriented. With a traditional espresso machine, you need to grind the beans in a grinder, tamp it correctly with the same amount of force you always use, and then brew it at a particular head temperature, etc, etc. I did eventually get really good at this, but it did require a lot of brain cells at a time when mine are not awake. Oh, and I could have never had this setup on a boat – 4500W is bigger than any inverter I’ve ever had! Through the years I’ve tried other espresso machines that are smaller such as the Rocket line, [similar to this one](https://www.seattlecoffeegear.com/rocket-espresso-appartamento-espresso-machine?ref=seabits.com), and even more mainstream options like a [Breville](https://www.seattlecoffeegear.com/breville-barista-touch-bes880xl-espresso-machine?ref=seabits.com). These machines make it easier by having more appropriate sized power requirements, and in the case of the Breville, a built in grinder and dosing system so you don’t have to figure out how much coffee to put in the brew basket. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/01-Planning-Nespresso.jpg) Ultimately, because of many other people wanting coffee at home and on the boat, and in the interest of making it simpler for them to use, I switched to the Nespresso line of products a couple of years ago. Many other boaters do this as well, as it really makes it easy to make espresso, cappuccino and other similar drinks, and has almost zero mess compared to traditional methods. One of my favorite parts of the switch is the absolutely amazing milk froth you get from their [Aeroccino product, which I wrote about a few years ago](https://seabits.com/aeroccino-3-amazing-milk-frother/). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/CCGX-while-making-coffee.jpg) But these machines still take a considerable amount of power on a boat. Both on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) and [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/), I have used the smallest of the Nespresso machines, and watched on my [Victron](https://seabits.com/installing-and-using-a-victron-lifepo4-energy-system/) system on Grace or on the analog gauges on Rendezvous while 1500W of inverter power is used just to heat things up. While brewing, and if you’re running the Aeroccino as well, this can jump up near 2000W. That’s no problem for either inverter setup, but it does consume a lot of power – on Grace it was about 1-2% battery power for a double shot latte. I need that twice a day, so that’s 4% of my power, worst case. I think that is worth it, but if you add one or two other people, you could easily be consuming 10% of your power just for coffee. I’ve tried other coffee solutions on the sailboat, including the [Aeropress](https://aeropressinc.com/?ref=seabits.com), a very popular way of using hot water, a filter, and a press to essentially end up with french press coffee. Same with a traditional french press. They all work, but it is definitely not espresso, and good lord – the mess that it makes can be epic. If you ever botch pushing down on the Aeropress cylinder, the whole thing goes flying. And with a french press, you now have a ton of coffee grounds you have to dispose of, and water you need to use to clean it all out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/Wacacao-Nanopresso-Products.jpg) A few months ago, my friend and crew member Jake gave me a wonderful gift that I think would be at home on a sailboat, power boat, or in your bag when you travel. It is a combo product from Wacaco that includes their [Nanopresso unit](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752XV66X?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com), combined with an [adapter for Nespresso pods](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DGY1NS?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com). With this tiny, portable device, you add hot water, pop a Nespresso capsule in the end, pump it about 15-20 times, and you have full on espresso without the big machine or the power usage! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/Wacacao-Nanopresso-Alone.jpg) The whole unit is very compact and made of rugged plastic. You can use espresso-ground coffee or Nespresso pods if you have both attachments. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/025-LD_360x.png) Nanopresso yellow tattoo model – picture courtesy of Wacaco You can also get [more creative designs and colors](https://amzn.to/2BxQ3CI?ref=seabits.com), along with even smaller versions called the Minipresso – check out all of the options at [Wacaco’s website](https://www.wacaco.com/collections/shop?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/Wacacao-Nanopresso-both-pods.jpg) You can see both versions above. On the left is the Nespresso version, while on the right is the espresso-ground coffee version. You can see the waffle print in the left hand Nespresso version where the foil front of the pod will rest. On the right, the upper bucket is where the coffee would go. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/Wacacao-Nanopresso-coffee.jpg) If you’re using coffee, it is important to get a finely ground, espresso-style coffee to use in the system. You’ll be putting it under a decent amount of pressure, and if you have standard coffee that is ground much more coarsely, you won’t get a good pull (push?) from the system. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/Wacacao-Nanopresso-water.jpg) Hot water goes in the top of the unit, which unscrews just like the bottom. It is important that the water be near boiling, not just hot tap water. I tried both, and the shot was far better with much hotter water. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/Wacacao-Nanopresso-Nespresso-pod-waiting.jpg) I use the Nanopresso mostly with Nespresso pods, as I love how easy they are to clean up, and I love the taste of the shot it produces. You simply drop your flavor of choice into the end, holder, place it in the bottom piece, and screw that on to the bottom of the entire unit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/Wacacao-Nanopresso-pumping.jpg) Now comes the manual part – you twist the pump handle and it pops out of the unit. Then start pumping! I found about 20-21 pumps would produce my perfect shot while using most of the hot water. This also varied based on the type of Nespresso pod I was using. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/Wacacao-Nanopresso-espresso-shot.jpg) Voila! I now have a wonderful shot of espresso, and with a fraction of the power of a big electric machine. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/12/Wacacao-Nanopresso-Nespresso-pod-waffle.jpg) Cleanup is pretty easy too – just pop the Nespresso capsule out of the bottom end, and put it in recycling! You’ll notice the Nanopresso creates a very similar waffle pattern to the standard Nespresso machine. I love that I can have espresso on the boat without using tons of power. Even though I have a big battery bank and inverter, I can see where using a Nanopresso on longer trips could be helpful to conserve that power. I can also have it in the woods, while traveling, and pretty much anywhere I can make hot water. Even on business trips, I can save myself from having to drink normal coffee and avoid Starbucks, all while enjoying my own favorite blends from Nespresso. Thanks to Jake for such a wonderful gift! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Val Vechnyak [December 24, 2018 at 9:24 pm](https://seabits.com/portable-low-power-espresso-on-the-boat-with-nanopresso/#comment-337) Always love reading your detailed articles. I am far from your connoisseur skills on coffee making but I do appreciate a good cup (not mug) of coffee from freshly ground fresh beans. On the boat however, I found my taste buds change and when it comes to coffee, quantity takes over quality in some way. I dont grind beans on the boat for the several day trips I make. Instead I try to concentrate on storage of the ground coffee in tight seal container to reduce humidity, etc. When it comes to brewing, I found that double walled, stainless steel french press produces reasonable balance of quality, quantity with relatively small mess. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [December 24, 2018 at 6:22 pm](https://seabits.com/portable-low-power-espresso-on-the-boat-with-nanopresso/#comment-338) Fresh ground or made in any way is definitely the way to go. A bit of me is disappointed with using Nespresso pods since they are not fresh ground, but their espresso sure tastes like it! If I were drinking coffee, I would definitely take the approach you have – keeping the beans as fresh and humidity free as possible, and grinding them right before brewing. I had a french press for years on the sailboat as that was the best way to get quality coffee with the same properties you cite! Happy caffeinating! [Daniel Thompson](https://milkfrothertop.com/?ref=seabits.com) [April 24, 2020 at 7:18 am](https://seabits.com/portable-low-power-espresso-on-the-boat-with-nanopresso/#comment-140) After such stories, I always present a similar picture in my head. Around the water and the noise of weak waves. You can brew a cup of your favorite espresso and go to the deck of your boat. Sunny weather, light breeze and complete peace. Gorgeous. ### Boat exploration, a shock and a fire URL: https://seabits.com/boat-exploration-a-shock-and-a-fire/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T18:33:33.000Z The last few weeks have been very busy aboard [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/). I have spent most of the time learning the boat, exploring wiring and systems setup, and working on some projects that were first on my list. I also had the chance to actually use the boat for a couple of trips, the last one being the longest and most exciting. One of the first projects I had on my list was updating the majority of the lighting throughout, as much of it was original or had been updated with LEDs with very harsh color profiles. I did similar projects on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) with both [Halogen light replacement with CREE LEDs](https://seabits.com/halogen-light-replacement-cree-leds/) and [Ambient LED cabin lights](https://seabits.com/ambient-led-cabin-lights/). Rendezvous has a bunch of overhead lights that are thankfully not halogen, but older BAY15D non-indexed bulbs, which are pretty easy to get a hold of. I’m still playing with options from Dr. LED, LunaSea Lighting, and several other vendors for those lights. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/01-LED-light-salon-2-1024x768.jpg) The overheads here have been updated with a couple of different brands and all are far better than before with nice warm light, and about 1/3rd more overall lumens. In addition, all around the edge of the salon under the valance where the curtains are was an older system of “courtesy lights” which were essentially a string of red LEDs. The salon itself would draw 5-7 amps just to run those lights! You can see above that I have already replaced them with something new…. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/01-LED-light-salon-1-1024x768.jpg) I love ambient light, and here it has worked out wonderfully well with the already-wired and in place courtesy lights I was able to remove and retrofit. I used [16′ LED strips that are warm white + RGB](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flexible-led-strip-lights/5050-rgbw-led-strip-light-color-changing-led-tape-light-w-white-and-multicolor-leds-12v-ip20-204-lmft/5151/11540/?ref=seabits.com) along with [mini controllers and remotes](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-led-controllers/mini-rgbw-led-controller-wireless-rf-remote-w-dynamic-color-changing-modes/3270/6265/?ref=seabits.com) all from SuperBrightLEDs.com. What I like about this system is that the controller runs on 10-30VDC, so it can handle direct voltage from my DC bank without power supplies, allows for up to 5 controllers to be paired to one remote, and is very easy to install and wire. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/01-LED-light-salon-3-blue-1024x768.jpg) I could have just gone with warm white LEDs, but having the colors from the RGB side are nice both for practical and party purposes. Dimming things down to the lowest red or blue makes it nice for night vision both while underway, or just for guests moving through the space. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/02-LED-light-kitchen-1-1024x768.jpg) I also used the same system in the galley, which had a couple of compact fluorescent lights providing limited light throughout. Besides the lack of light, I don’t like the amp draw of CFL lights off of DC when away from the dock. The amount of additional light we now have in the kitchen is amazing – several of my crew who end up making most of the meals were extremely happy. No comments about the Jameson bottle next to my coffee machine – if you know boat projects you know why both are there ? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/03-LED-light-boat-dock-1024x768.jpg) One nice side effect of the lights in the salon being so close to the windows is that they also light up the walkways on the boat, and splash a bit onto the dock! A very quick and relatively inexpensive upgrade that makes the space easier to use and more comfortable in general. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/04-pipe-colors-1024x768.jpg) One thing I continue to be impressed with is the little things that Ocean Alexander did when they built Rendezvous. A single bilge system for a lot of the sources of bilge water is one of them, but so is their color coding system for piping, and the clear placard in the engine room in case you forget. For someone who is red/green color blind, I am pretty sure I need to consult other crew members before making changes lest I get things mixed up! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/05-arch-back-2-1024x768.jpg) One of the features that attracted me to Rendezvous was her electrically controlled lowering arch. I had the chance to test this out and explore all of the items on the arch, and I can say this is going to be super nice for working on antennas and other things I want to test and mount easily. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/05-arch-back-1-1024x768.jpg) It makes accessing everything super easy, and is just plain fun to use. Side note: I am going to be selling almost everything you see on the arch, and more. If you are interested in any of the following, please[ contact me](https://seabits.com/contact/): - Intellian i3 satellite TV system – includes the dome you see above and antenna control unit - Furuno radar + chart plotter – very well maintained and low hours – includes RDP-149 10″ NavNet vx2 display, the big 4′ long range radar you see above, GPS, and all of the cabling There’s also a Furuno auto pilot system that I am debating keeping or selling, plus other bits that go along with all of the Furuno stuff. I’m hoping to find someone locally who would be able to use all of this as shipping it would be expensive. All of it works perfectly – it is just too big for my needs, and the radar itself blocks valuable space I would like to use for testing various other antennas and radars. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/05-arch-wires-pull-string-768x1024.jpg) The arch system makes it pretty easy to pull cables up to it, and there are even pull strings left behind! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/06-Magnum-shunt-installed-1024x768.jpg) One of the first things I installed was the [Magnum Battery Monitoring kit](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/magnum-energy-battery-monitor-kit-me-bmk?ref=seabits.com), which I consider critical in any electrical system. I’m surprised at how many boats I’ve visited and worked on that only have an inverter and the basic package that comes with, and no monitoring of the bank itself in terms of state of charge, current flowing in/out, etc. The BMK is a shunt and a device for $175 that will plug into your existing Magnum inverter and add all of that data for you. Mine was still calibrating, as you can see above. Once this was in place, I could see exactly how much capacity I had consumed out of my house bank, the current coming and going to the entire bank, not just what the inverter uses, and a few other bits and pieces. It is a simple upgrade everyone with a Magnum inverter should have. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/07-ac-relay-shocking-768x1024.jpg) While exploring the electrical system, I came upon this mystery relay. I would not have known about it, had I not reached into a space that looked completely open with my bare arm, but I did. And the relay was happy to let me know it was there by passing 120VAC through the soft part of my wrist. Thank you. I was able to figure out this was going to a breaker on the AC panel which was OFF but is labeled E-Relay, which according to what I can find out, was used with some earlier inverter to switch between shore/inverter power. It does not appear to be needed, and in fact during sea-trial and survey we switched it on and had the whole AC panel trip. It needs to be removed, but I need to trace it a bit more before hacking away since it appears to always be energized. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/11-wire-tracing-768x1024.jpg) Continuing on the theme of wiring, much of my time has been tracing wires and figuring out where everything is going. I have a lot of things to install, and I want to ensure I have chosen the right places, and have access for future upgrades and projects I already have in mind. Much of the cable runs are easy to get at, save some in the flybridge eyebrow area that require a small child to reach. Compared to a sailboat, though, this is like paradise. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/09-storage-1024x769.jpg) I continue to be amazed at the sheer amount of storage space we have aboard. I have already emptied almost my entire storage unit into carefully organized bins throughout the boat in places that the crew would never need to access. Even after that, there is plenty of storage for longer term cruising including areas like a full pantry, tons of space in the galley, copious drawers in the staterooms, and more. It is so nice to have everything aboard where I can find it if I want to work on a strange project, or if I need some random spare part. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/21-siren-marine-474x1024.jpg) One other system I setup early on is my Siren Marine boat monitoring system. I was able to install it in the electrical closet and access voltages for both the start and house banks, plus I added an AC shore power monitoring relay. We have had a decent amount of challenges with the 30 AMP 120VAC shore power connection that the boat has – many other boats on my dock of similar size have 50 AMPs – in fact that seems to be the norm. Rendezvous only has 30 AMPs and when you have three 1500W AC heaters on throughout the boat, turning on anything else is not an option. I am considering upgrading to 50 AMPs in the future, but for now, Siren is monitoring things both while I am aboard and away, which with a new boat and lots of unknowns, is very comforting. Their remote wireless sensors are still being fine tuned, hence the red generator icon. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/20-oil-change-1024x768.jpg) The other big project was a full oil change of both main engines and the generator. I purchased a new [Marco gear driven oil change pump](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/marco-reversible-oil-and-diesel-transfer-kits-m164-932-12?ref=seabits.com) to help with the job, and a few extra buckets and containers. The pump worked flawlessly, and made the whole process pretty easy. I had looked at the Reverso pumps which are faster and have some nicer features, but at double the cost I just couldn’t justify it. I expect to only be changing the oil every 100 hours or once a year, so perhaps in a year or two I can justify a full central Reverso system, but not now! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/30-thanksgiving-dinner-1024x768.jpg) Crew member Jake and I had planned on getting away for 4 days after Thanksgiving, but the oil changes took too long on Friday, along with a few other projects, so we opted to have Thanksgiving leftovers at the dock and leave in the morning. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/31-poulsbo-ais-474x1024.jpg) We decided to cruise from Elliott Bay Marina to Poulsbo and anchor there. One of the other projects I was able to complete in a short time is to install a Vesper XB-8000 Class B AIS transponder I had in storage. I used the lower salon driving station VHF radio and antenna along with a splitter to get things installed. I will hopefully be testing some new Class B SOTDMA 5W AIS transponders soon which will fit here nicely. We anchored in Liberty Bay just off of the marinas, and our transponder was working great! I did have to work with the previous owner to release the MMSI he had already programmed into the DSC VHF at the flybridge. That required he cancel his station ID and MMSI which allowed me to claim it. An hour or so after we anchored, [Sam Landsman of Slowboat.com](http://slowboat.com/about/?ref=seabits.com) stopped by to visit and see the new boat. He was anchored right near us, and we had been planning to connect for a while – it was great our schedules matched up, and good to catch up on marine tech geekery. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/31-poulsbo-night-768x1024.jpg) That night was calm as can be, and very cold. The anchorage had less than 10 boats in it, all spaced out very far, so it was a quiet and beautiful view of the holiday lights on the houses. It turned out that several of the ducts from our diesel heater had shaken loose, so we weren’t as warm as we would have liked, although it wasn’t bad. I fixed that the next day – boat projects never end! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/32-poulsbo-breakfast-1024x768.jpg) The next morning we dinghied in to the marina dock and found breakfast at the [Green Light Diner](https://www.greenlightdiner.com/?ref=seabits.com). I got some crazy huge breakfast dish called the Kon-Tiki Traveler which is “A hearty scramble of eggs, red potatoes, peppers, onions, mushrooms, bacon, SPAM, sausage and cheddar, served on a Belgian waffle with a side of country gravy.” It was really good, but I probably should not have eaten as much as I did. We left Poulsbo around noon intending on spending the night on anchor in Blakeley Harbor, one of my favorite short jaunts from downtown Seattle. The weather that night was supposed to be slightly windy, but the next day (Monday) was due to be really nasty, and we wanted to be close to Seattle to get home in the morning early. After a discussion the night before, we decided to use the flybridge keys to start the engines instead of the salon station, which I had been using normally. About 30 minutes into the journey, I was turning the wheel, and hit one of the keys, and shut off the starboard engine. Not good! Shutting off an engine under moderate RPM is not a nice thing to do for many reasons – mainly because the engine is still hot and won’t be circulating coolant. I started it back up after coming to a stop, and checked everything, and we were back on our way. About 20 minutes later, I went below and immediately was inundated with a burning smell. I throttled down and inspected the engine room. We had been running the generator to help charge the batteries after the heater (which wasn’t connected correctly) burned through a lot of power overnight. I suspected that it was getting too hot with everything running, and shut the generator down. I also did an inspection of the entire engine room to see if I saw anything else, but didn’t. I did notice an abnormally high amount of current (50 amps) flowing out of our house bank, when it is normally 10-20 amps. I had bridged the house and start banks together to allow the engines to charge the house bank since I turned the generator off. Since this is still a new boat to me, I decided that it probably was OK, although strange, and continued on. We proceeded down Saratoga Passage and into Rich Passage around the south end of Bainbridge Island, destined for Blakeley Harbor on the other side. About 20 minutes passed, and all of a sudden ALL of the instruments on the port engine went dark. I tried turning the key off and on, but they did not come back. I could still hear the engines both running, and immediately throttled down. I went to the lower salon driving station, and it was similar there – no engine instruments, and no control of the state of the engine other than throttle and gear. I couldn’t turn the port engine off. I went into the engine room and there was lots of burning smell and a light smoke. After about 2 minutes of inspecting the port engine, which was still running by itself, I found a negative wire going from the starter up into the engine that had lost most of its sheathing, and clearly looked burned. I could see other things further up that were burned, but I couldn’t get to them without removing a floor panel above the engine. I made the executive decision to continue to Blakeley Harbor which was only 5 minutes away and to anchor and assess the situation. I discussed the options with Jake, and he agreed. We were on anchor only a few minutes later, and I shut down the starboard engine. We kept the engine room open and monitored things for any fire or additional smoke. I found the Volvo Penta manuals, and manually shut down the port engine using the overrides, as well as reset the tripped master breaker for the engine, which gave me control over it again. We were safe at anchor in a protected harbor only 25 minutes from our home marina, and I could start digging into what happened. I think this decision was far better than trying to continue 25-30 minutes, prep the boat for docking, and dock with an engine that was essentially running without the ability to control it completely. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/50-preheater-failure-overview-768x1024.jpg) After shutting off all battery power to both engines and removing the floor panels, it was clear where the smoke and burning smell was coming from. What you see above is a solenoid responsible for turning on an element in the airflow of the engine, commonly called a preheating system. The positive wire (bottom large wire) and negative wire are both missing their protective hide for 6-8″ and the positive wire is touching the engine block, which likely caused the short that tripped the main breaker for the engine controls. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/51-preheater-solenoid-768x1024.jpg) The crazy thing is that tracing the large power wires revealed that they both go directly to the lugs on the starter with no fusing in between. After some research, this is apparently pretty common, but it does not make me comfortable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/52-preheater-element-768x1024.jpg) Out of the solenoid is the negative large cable which goes to the top of the preheater element, and then a second negative that goes from that down to the starter lug. Its hard to see in this photo, but clearly the wire is missing its covering, and the preheater has obviously been running a while. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/53-preheater-failure-panel-dark-768x1024.jpg) The bottom of the floor panel really shows the seriousness of what happened. That is a lot of black smoke, and it was everywhere – on the big air filters for the engine, across the other parts nearby, on the beams holding up the floor. I cleaned up everything I could, metered out all of the wires and removed the two large wires completely, and labeled and cut the control wires for reconnection later. I ordered a replacement solenoid, and we settled down for a calmer evening at anchor. After a lot of research, I determined that the preheater itself may not be something I would normally be using – Volvo Penta says the engine has to be pretty cold for it to be required, and in most cases it will just smoke more at start without it. I’ve posted a far more detailed description of what happened at [BoatDiesel.com here if you want to read it](https://boatdiesel.com/Forums/index.cfm?CFAPP=6&Forum%5FID=92&Thread%5FID=66301&ref=seabits.com). I am on the fence as to whether I will be disabling this system on both engines, or adding cutoff switches and fuses to prevent this from happening again in the future. I’m glad the damage wasn’t more extensive, but I will be adding a smoke detection system in the engine room as soon as I can. I believe we figured out the cause – the crappy key location at the flybridge and very loose tumbler likely resulted in me hitting the key into preheat at some point, at which point it happily ran for who knows how long and eventually heated up enough to consume the wire hide off of the larger wires, melt everything at the solenoid, etc. The system is only supposed to be used for a maximum of 60 seconds according to the manual, and likely ran for far longer. The rest of the evening was uneventful, and we got up super early on Monday morning to avoid the storm due in around noon. After a wet but calm 25 minute crossing, and a couple of docking attempts, we were safe at home. Although we had an emergency, the rest of the time was an absolute pleasure – empty anchorages and quiet nights with good company, good food, and so much comfort to enjoy winter cruising in. I will definitely be back out many times this winter! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/10-sunsets-1024x768.jpg) ### A new family member URL: https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:31:11.000Z I am excited to introduce a new family member – [Rendezvous](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/). She is a 1988 Ocean Alexander 420 sundeck motor yacht with lots of neat features and extras. After a whirlwind process of selling [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), Rendezvous became part of our family in early November. This was after I made my decision to switch from sail to power which I discussed in [Sailing towards power](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/). Making the decision to sell Grace was hard, but once that was done, getting her ready was an even bigger job. You don’t really realize how much stuff you have on a boat until you try to take it all off! After a good week of work, not only was everything off, but all of the nooks and crannies were clean, and she was ready for a wax and wash. Soon, she was show ready, and after a week or so for sale on my own, I listed her with Signature Yachts, the broker I bought her from and have had great experiences with in the past. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/Grace-at-Signature-1024x768.jpg) Grace tucked away at Signature Yachts in Seattle After only a day, I had a buyer, a week later a survey, and things were progressing on the sale of Grace. In the mean time, I had visited a number of potential boats and found that the layout and style we most preferred was a cockpit motor yacht, or tri-cabin setup. The main points from this sort of layout include an island queen master cabin in the stern, a large salon, and a decent sized v-berth in the bow. After looking around at various manufacturers, it became clear that this layout would narrow down the choices considerably. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/Tolly44-1024x753.jpg) A Tolly 44 I looked at I looked at a number of Tollycraft 44, an Ocean Alexander 46, several Hatteras, and Island Gypsy, and two DeFever 44’s, plus some other random ones I don’t remember. I didn’t particularly care for the fit and finish of the Tollycraft, although the space was laid out well and seemed quite large compared to others. Not only that, but finding a Tolly 44 for sale was proving difficult – they seem to be snapped up quickly. I also found one with Detroit Diesel engines, which I am not a fan of. We did end up making a conditional offer on a Tolly 44, but we were competing against another offer which eventually won out, which was probably good! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/DeFever44-1024x630.png) The primary boat in my list initially after making my decision was the DeFever 44\. I loved its lines and the stand up engine room, along with the interior layout and finish. I visited two in the local area, and I still love the stand up engine room, but the rest of the boat gave me concerns once I started thinking about using it. Not only was the salon much smaller than the Tolly (and many other tri-cabin boats) but getting aboard because of the high freeboard was going to be a concern. The interiors were beautiful with tons of teak and storage, but it was very compact and not as open as I would like. Josh also did not like the layout at all, and being the first mate, that opinion counted a ton! The other manufacturers had interesting features, but the one that stood out to me was Ocean Alexander. I had only had exposure to their newer 2000’s and later models via visiting some friends boats. In learning about their history, and seeing the 1980-1990’s vintage hulls, I was really surprised at the quality and performance, comparable to all of the other manufacturers I was considering. I saw two mid-1980’s Ocean Alexander sedan models in the Seattle area, and while beautiful, the layout didn’t match our tri-cabin desires with a large stern queen master berth. Nevertheless, it gave me direct experience with the quality of the finishes, build, electrical system, and more. OA’s were truly built at high quality standards. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/6837288_0_100920180746_0-1024x768.jpg) Just by chance, days before the Seattle Boats Afloat show, I saw a 1988 Ocean Alexander 420 Sundeck come available on Yacht World. I met Matt Maynard of Irwin Yacht Sales at the last minute right after the show, and walked aboard Rendezvous. I knew the moment I stepped aboard that this was our next boat. She was immaculately cared for, and looked about 10 years old, not the 30 she really was. Both inside and outside she had everything we wanted, and felt like home. I also saw a 1987 Ocean Alexander 46 a couple of hours later which had been a custom layout when built, which was slightly odd and not as functional. It had also been used quite heavily and looked like a 30+ year old boat. But the quality was still very impressive. Later that day, I put an offer in on Rendezvous, contingent on Grace selling. A survey and mechanical inspection was set for mid October, and we were on our way to buying a new boat! But as with anything boat-related, it wasn’t that simple. Only a couple days from the survey date on Rendezvous, my buyer on Grace fell through due to financing. I was devastated, as I knew that Rendezvous was the boat for us, but we couldn’t afford it unless Grace sold. Grace was a pretty desirable boat – I had 6 different people within a day make offers or want to make an offer once we listed her with a broker. So, I texted/called back a few of the folks who had contacted me directly, and after only a day, Grace had another buyer, and we were back in the running! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/05-flybridge-driving-1024x768.jpg) Survey day was super fun. I had requested John Sandford as my NAMS/SAMS surveyor – he had done the original survey on Grace, and I was very impressed with his thoroughness and no-nonsense approach to the process. I appreciate his style of identifying the real issues with the boat, and not just finding items to make sure something is wrong on the survey. I also had asked for a mechanical survey, and Kevin from Diesel Systems was my guy on that front. He spent hours in the engine room checking everything over, taking oil samples, and providing very clear guidance on everything mechanical. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/92-haul-1024x768.jpg) The survey started at 8AM, and included a thorough going-over of the entire boat, sea-trial for about an hour, and a haul out at nearby Marine Servicenter. The zincs looked like they needed to be replaced, so I paid for that (fully knowing at this point I had fallen in love with this boat) and poked around underneath. I wanted to hear the engine noise with all of the floor panels closed, and Matt was nice enough to go back out of the marina for another quick sea-trial to let me hear that. So quiet! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/DSC01514-1024x683.jpg) We got back to her slip and John spent another couple of hours poking around in even more areas, and we all sat down to review the results. Overall, she was in excellent condition, with only some hose replacements to be done on various spots, and a few safety issues which were easily correctable. There was some additional maintenance required on an after cooler and some other random things that would be pretty easy to deal with. I was happy to proceed once we got all of the official reports back. That happened a few days later, including a detailed oil analysis on the engines, generator, and transmissions – everything was clean. Now all we had to do was wait for Grace to sell, and then all of the other money pieces to happen! That occurred soon enough, with Grace closing on Halloween, and Rendezvous only a few days later. Rendezvous was only owned by two previous owners, each for 15 years, making me the third. The current owner was willing to meet me on the day of closing and go over the entire boat in terms of his tips and tricks. We spent about an hour and a half on the boat, and then because we were in Anacortes, he rode with me back south to Seattle. This was a great opportunity to chat with the person who used the boat for so long, and knew things that you would have to figure out on your own, if ever. I went downtown and picked up a rental Chevy Tahoe, filled it to the brim with supplies, tools, and everything off of Grace, and headed back north that same day, arriving around 4pm at the Anacortes Marina. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0309-1024x768.jpg) I spent Wednesday night and all day Thursday provisioning, learning, and familiarizing myself with the systems on the boat. I tested as much as I could at the dock for the solo 2 day journey south to Seattle. Friday morning I woke up to low clouds and rain, and at 8:30AM I cast off the lines, and backed her out of the slip. First time at the helm on a brand new boat, and a dual engine yacht which I hadn’t driven much of in 20+ years. It went fine, even in the tight corners exiting the Anacortes Marina. Once out beyond the entrance buoys, I put all the lines and fenders away, and did some tests with the engines and transmissions to become a bit more familiar with how she reacted. Then I headed out hopefully to go directly across the straits to Port Ludlow for the first night. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0317-1024x768.jpg) Unfortunately within about 5 minutes I heard on VHF channel 16 that the Navy had part of the area I wanted to go through closed for live fire exercises. Even though I could have probably gotten around it, I decided that my alternate through Deception Pass was probably the safest thing to do. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0319-1024x768.jpg) I got to the pass about 15 minutes before slack, and I am glad I made the decision to go that way. Visibility in general was less than a mile due to the sheer amount of rain, and driving from the fly bridge without a windshield wiper made for even more difficulty. I really didn’t want to be in the straits with the Navy somewhere out there in that sort of visibility. The chart plotter, radar and autopilot were also not working perfectly, which is OK since I brought two iPads with Navionics and TimeZero for primary navigation. The chart plotter seemed OK at times, but the radar was off 30 degrees from the image on the charts, and I think it needs to be calibrated. The autopilot was really wonky and I think the digital compass needs to be calibrated – all of this is pretty recent Furuno equipment and should work fine once I figure out the tuning issues. Once through the pass, the rest of the trip was pretty uneventful except for visibility most of the way. I did have some orcas jumping in my wake at one point, which was super cool. I didn’t get any pictures… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0342-1024x768.jpg) I decided to still go to Port Ludlow and anchor, as I wanted to arrive in Seattle at Elliott Bay Marina on Saturday with plenty of light for a first docking. I arrived in Port Ludlow around 2:30PM and dropped anchor easily. I was on the water for 7 hours, about 3 more than I expected, but I was really pleased with the way the boat performed in the weather, waves, and running through a difficult pass. Very, very pleased overall. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0354-1024x768.jpg) I decided to take the new Highfield dinghy out for a spin, as I hadn’t had a chance to do that during survey. Wow! I’m impressed with the lightness of the aluminum bottom, and the speed with the 15HP motor – 20+ knots at full throttle with one big guy (me) in it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0336-1024x768.jpg) Port Ludlow was very quiet and empty, and the water was like glass all evening and into the morning. I had a wonderful dinner, enjoyed the big windows in the salon, and explored more systems on the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0363-1024x768.jpg) I left around 10AM the next day into beautiful weather – sun everywhere with a little bit of wind and waves. While crossing Foulweather Bluff there were actually some pretty big 3′ waves, and the boat just sliced right through them. I arrived at Elliott Bay Marina around 1pm, and decided to meet Josh at the fuel dock to top up the tank. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0366-1024x768.jpg) My first docking attempt went off without a hitch – there was quite a bit of wind (not optimal!) when docking, and the fuel dock attendant caught my line and tied me down. After a larger bill than with a sailboat (!!) for about 175 gallons of diesel, Josh hopped aboard, and we went out into Elliott Bay. He had not been on the boat underway, and really loved it. We spend an hour and a half cruising around, and then called ahead to the marina for docking line assistance in our new slip. The wind was even worse, although once I made the turn into the slip, seemed to be less of an issue. The narrow fairways at the marina will definitely give me more practice in the coming trips! We docked without incident, and then ran off to prep the boat for visitors later that day and on Sunday. No rest! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0370-1024x768.jpg) The author with his new boat! That night three of us enjoyed just being on a boat again, and the next day we took Rendezvous out for her first official cruise with guests over to Blakeley Harbor for a few hours during lunch. The wind was quite brisk at 20 knots coming back with big 3-4′ waves in the channel, and again she impressed all of us by being able to slice an angle through them with little impact. Beam on was a different story, but that’s not unexpected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/11/IMG_0377-1024x768.jpg) Now that Rendezvous is home, there are a few projects that I am going to jump into right away: - LED lighting – much of the overhead lighting was replaced with LEDs, but they are a very harsh color. We’ll be replacing those. In addition, I will be adding LED strip lighting like I did on Grace in a ton of places for more ambient light instead of direct overhead fixtures. - Oil change – this was due, and will be good for me to get used to. - Ground tackle improvements – there is no bridle, and the anchor and some of the connecting hardware needs to be updated/fixed to make it safer. - Bilge hoses – these were cited on the survey as being old and in need of replacement - AC wiring issues – some of the outlets were showing odd configurations during the survey which I will be fixing - Dock lines – these need to be replaced - Shore power cord – converting this to a SmartPlug - Furuno fixes – all of the weird things going on with the current equipment need to be fixed - Internet / Arlo / Siren Marine – these systems I brought from Grace, and need to be permanently installed on Rendezvous - Other instruments – I have boxes of various instruments that I had been testing on Grace which I would like to install aboard - General stuff – things like interior, rugs, bedding, galley supplies and the like will be something we focus on this winter That’s just what I plan on working on the next 1-2 months – there’s a whole long term roadmap and project plan for the boat that I will publish later! Our friends and crew have already fallen in love with Rendezvous. So have I – I love the space, the speed, and the comfort of her already feeling like home no matter if we are underway, at the dock, or at anchor. I can’t wait to share more testing, experimentation, networking, and trips with you! You can learn more about Rendezvous, her specs and more details at the [m/v Rendezvous page](https://seabits.com/rendezvous/). --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Martin T [October 16, 2018 at 4:25 pm](https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/#comment-375) I must admit that I am sorry to see a tech site focused on sail boats to change to motor boats (there already exists several such sites, like Panbo and more). Really enjoyed reading your site as I both sail and like tech. That said if your going by motor 80% of time, I fully agree that it is the right choice for you to do away with your sail. Much better to get a pure motor craft in your case. No doubt about it. Will still continue to read the site and look forward to your future contributions in tech and boating. Good luck with your new boat, and great that you still love the sea! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [October 16, 2018 at 10:07 pm](https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/#comment-390) Hi Martin, Thanks for the kind words. I definitely intend on continuing to write about technology and boats, and will always be a sailor at heart. I tend to always think about having super-finite resources like electricity regardless of the boat I have, so I am hoping I won’t change that too much! Steve Price [November 17, 2018 at 11:46 pm](https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/#comment-352) Great find…. hard to beat a nice OA ! Enjoy 🙂 - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [November 17, 2018 at 6:41 pm](https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/#comment-365) Thank you! I will! Greg Davydov [November 19, 2018 at 7:51 pm](https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/#comment-343) She looks really great. So now you have to re-install state of the art electric system as well as all communications equipment like WiFI, LTE, Cell boosters, etc. I am looking forward to read about new ideas and solutions. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [November 19, 2018 at 6:42 pm](https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/#comment-402) Thanks! The batteries are brand new, and while they are flooded, there is a decent amount of capacity. I’ll likely replace the various control systems around them in the next year or two, but the battery bank itself will need to wait until the flooded ones are worn out. I’ve already got my Peplink and WiFi system installed on board – it was one of the first things to do! The next project is instruments and a NMEA 2000 backbone, which the boat apparently doesn’t have. Lots of Furuno stuff but looks all proprietary. Joseph [November 24, 2018 at 5:09 pm](https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/#comment-368) What an awesome yacht you have, congratulations! Are you planning to live aboard? The boat looks comfortably large enough to do so. I’m still heart set on a sailboat but after attending FLIBS and seeing so many power boats my opinion has swayed, a little. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [November 24, 2018 at 6:42 pm](https://seabits.com/a-new-family-member/#comment-370) I am not planning on living aboard. I have a condo about 10 minutes away, but I do plan on being aboard 5-6 days a week in the evenings working on projects and many other things. ### Installing and using a Victron LiFePO4 energy system URL: https://seabits.com/installing-and-using-a-victron-lifepo4-energy-system/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:33:07.000Z With my [LiFePO4 power design complete](https://seabits.com/correcting-the-list-lifepo4-power-system-design/), I was excited to install and use the new system for most of this sailing season. The installation took longer than a traditional battery installation, and had more complexity, but turned out to be a fantastic setup for the longer trips I went on this summer. The installation took multiple weeks, with phases of the project chunked up to have the smallest impact to power on the boat. This allowed me to continue working on board, and planning out the pieces of the install without sitting in the cold and dark in early spring/late winter. I ended up removing all but one battery from my existing system, but left everything else while I began the install. # Proper Crimping Tools Proper tools were essential, as usual, to a project of this scope. I chose to crimp and terminate all of my own wires so that I could get exact length runs and save myself having to document and measure everything perfectly for someone else to do it online as I had in the past. In addition, it gave me more flexibility as I could move stuff around during install to find the exact right spot. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Crappy-crimp-tool.jpg) This is one of the worst crimping tools you could ever use – a very poorly made General Hydraulics. Not only are the dies that insert into the jaws completely mis-labeled in some cases, but they are either too small or too big in general. Stay away from this one! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/IMG_0909.jpg) Here’s how the crimp comes out with that tool. Not terrible, but surely not as good as it could be. On bigger wires, it absolutely mangles them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Ancor-wire-crimper.jpg) Another one to steer clear of is the Ancor large lug wire crimper. I had one of these that I got essentially for free but had never used. It looks impressive, and has the Ancor name, which might mean it is OK. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Ancor-wire-crimper-bad.jpg) Nope this one sucks too. While this won’t come off unless I really try, the way it crimps is essentially by smashing a cross like blunt instrument into one side. I did not like the quality of the crimps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/IMG_0234.jpg) I had been using the [FTZ 94284](https://amzn.to/2OciKJR?ref=seabits.com) crimp tool on projects for the last year, and had been very pleased with the quality of the crimp. I found this on MarineHowTo.com at [Making Your Own Battery Cables](https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/?ref=seabits.com) which I think I’ve linked to before. I highly recommend reading the entire article to see how bad other crimpers are. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Crimped-short-wire.jpg) A nicely crimped short cable! # The Wiring Given the location of the battery, inverter, distribution and other pieces, I knew I was going to have to run some fairly big wires. In fact, between the battery and distribution, I used 4/0 AWG – the biggest I have worked with in a long while. It was like trying to tame a big, angry snake. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Big-wire.jpg) Along with proper crimping tools, you need to make sure you have very sharp and powerful cutting tools to ensure a nice clean cut, especially with wire this size. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Lug-types.jpg) For most of my connections, I used “power lugs” which are the ones on the right in the photo above. They have a longer metal barrel that makes more contact with the wire, and usually call for 2 crimps which means better overall connection. The lug on the left is considered a “battery lug” and I used them on smaller connections or when connecting to the battery, as the plates where the hole is are better sized for that application. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Lots-o-lugs.jpg) I had a lot of different sized wires, and ordered all of my lugs from my local favorite store Fisheries Supply. I liked the [FTZ branded lugs](https://amzn.to/2VL2TGd?ref=seabits.com) – they were clearly marked with colors and labels, matched my crimping tool chart, and came in a 10 pack bag for a lot less than Ancor and others. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Lots-of-wire.jpg) There were a lot of wires I removed, but I tried to recycle as much of the good wire as possible. It was still a rats nest at times while I swapped things around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Big-fuses.jpg) The other important piece with any DC electrical system on the boat is fusing. For the inverter and battery I used class T fuses appropriate to the max current, plus there were fuses that I updated or added for all of the other major pieces – DC house loads, heater, solar, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Battery-switch.jpg) I added new battery switches both at the inverter and the battery itself. The old setup did not have a battery switch near the inverter, and the switch for the house batteries was further away than I’d like. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Battery-switch-open.jpg) I used [Marinco Pro Installer Series switches](https://amzn.to/2UqG22v?ref=seabits.com) which have a couple of nice features. First, the entire front of the unit comes off so you can wire things much easier than trying to get to the back side of the switch. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Battery-switch-wiring.jpg) In addition, you can get various bars and connectors along with busses, fuse blocks and more. To connect them you use appropriately sized bars to link them together. This prevents having to use a jumper wire and the extra space required for the wire in between the two devices. I really like these, and will be using them in the future. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Engine-room-main-busses.jpg) I also moved the main positive and negative busses to either side of the engine space. They were originally near the back of the engine, which is OK access, but this spot is better suited to reach the inverter, batteries, and everything else. The heat that is generated by the engine was a concern, but I sized the cables up considerably for everything, and there really is no other area for these to live. I’m happy with the location and updates that make it easier to see and use. # The Battery ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-battery-packaging.jpg) The most expensive part of the system, and the most impressive in my opinion, is the 300 amp hour Victron LiFePO4 battery. It arrived via special freight company in a very special box, topped by a special device preventing anyone from stacking something on top of it, and monitoring drops and shakes. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/IMG_0976.jpg) It took some careful planning to get it aboard, as the battery itself is 112 pounds and quite bulky. There are some nice handles on the sides, but it would be nicer to have some hard points to lash to. This single battery is replacing almost double the weight in carbon foam AGM (Firefly) batteries, at about the same size as a single battery, or only 1/3rd the space. Quite impressive! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-battery-ready.jpg) The battery has a Bluetooth radio in it, and I was able to query it before I even had it all connected up to check on the cells and overall health. In fact, before I even unpacked it from the shipping crate, I could do this – pretty neat! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-LiFePO4-battery.jpg) The biggest challenge with installation was finding a place for the 300 amp hour battery, but I eventually chose the bottom of the master stateroom storage closet. I built a very strong shelf in the base, moved some heating ducts around, and mounted the battery switch and fuse for the positive side, as well as the Victron BMV-712 shunt for the negative side. This picture is mid-installation where I was validating cabling lengths and such – the final solution has since been cleaned up considerably. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/IMG_0972.jpg) One thing that was fun and also terrifying is firmware updates for the battery. These are delivered over Bluetooth as well. I guess everything has software nowadays! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-Grace-Victron-LiFePO4-Lithium-Smart-Battery.jpg) The final install for the battery included three straps holding it down to the new shelf, multiple blocks around the battery screwed down into the shelf, and a big piece of aluminum angle keeping it secure as well. I cut a large portion out of the end around the positive terminal, and covered it in plastic to prevent any issues. Not only was this far more secure than the original batteries, but the weight was on the port side, eliminating the massive list I had with the previous setup! That was a major goal for this project, and early on during installation, you could feel the list disappear. # Inverter ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-MultiPlus-3000w-inverter-front-removed.jpg) The [Victron MultiPlus 3000W inverter](https://amzn.to/2UqGEoP?ref=seabits.com) is a thing of beauty. Not only do I get 3000W of inverted power, but also 120 amps of charging power, dual AC outputs, and a secondary circuit to charge my start battery. Everything was clearly labeled and had plenty of space to work on, which is a nice change as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-MultiPlus-3000w-inverter-bottom.jpg) The MultiPlus felt better constructed than the MasterVolt and other equipment I have worked on before. I also like how they added a nice aluminum guard under the fan to prevent any damage. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-MultiPlus-3000w-inverter-ac-connection.jpg) One of the main features I planned on using is having the main AC input from shore power go directly into the inverter, and then utilizing the dual AC outs for inverted and non-inverted power. This would allow me to control all AC power from a central point, monitor it in one place, and use some of the neat Victron features in case of a smaller shore power source. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-inverter-diagram.jpg) I like how Victron includes an electrical diagram of the inverter details on the inside of the front cover. Useful instead of having to dig around for a manual in case of an issue. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-MultiPlus-3000w-inverter-mounted.jpg) I ended up having to install the inverter/charger in the same space as the old one, which was a bit further from the battery than I wanted, but it was really the only location available. I did add a new ELCI breaker (on the right) as well as a battery switch and inverter fuse properly sized for the 3000W load. This was just before I cleaned up all the cables and made it look nice and tidy. You’ll also notice I have two 2/0 AWG cables for positive and negative on the DC side – this is due to the amount of amps the inverter could draw from the battery. Victron actually recommends using 2x each of these cables when you are at a certain length and overall amperage, essentially creating a “bigger” single cable out of two. I could have used 4/0 AWG wire, but it would not have given me as much capacity as 2x 2/0 AWG, and was their recommended setup. # Relays and Controls ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-relays.jpg) One of the more complicated things with a LiFePO4 system are the controls you have to put in place to protect the battery bank from being over charged, and from being discharged too much. For my setup, I needed two to prevent over charging – one for the alternator, which is the Cyrix-Li-ct, and one for my solar panels. I also needed two to prevent discharging too much – one for my house DC loads and one for the Wallas heater, which was wired separately and ran in fan mode even with main DC loads off. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Battery-protect-side.jpg) Victron has a number of choices for these relays, the [Battery Protect series](https://amzn.to/2Hk3rPu?ref=seabits.com) being the most popular. For a LiFePO4 system with the Victron BMS, you only need two wires connected to the control blocks – a negative common ground, and to the remote pin. This allows the BMS to send the appropriate signal when charging or discharging needs to stop due to either situation. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Cyrix-Li-ct.jpg) The [Cyrix relay](https://amzn.to/2TlfRhf?ref=seabits.com) was recommended for the alternator based on the hard coded logic inside, but it also was connected via the same methods as the Battery Protect to allow for the BMS to shut it off. The only benefit with the Cyrix is that it didn’t combine the alternator/start battery with the house battery unless certain voltages were seen on both posts. The Battery Protect models did not do this, and happily would remain open/closed depending on the signal from the BMS, which I did not want for the alternator/start battery. I ended up replacing this later on with a larger version with an indicator light, as I did not like the size of the posts, and never could tell whether it was working appropriately. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Engine-room-bus-with-relays.jpg) This is where two of the Battery Protects ended up being mounted, further aft of the engine room. The heater gets its power from this bus, and has a Battery Protect inline to shut it off if the main house bank gets too depleted. The Victron MPPT solar controller wiring also terminates here, and another Battery Protect will disconnect it if the house bank is nearing over charge state. Some people have chosen to rely on the Victron MPPT solar controller being connected to the Color Control GX via a Victron control bus, but it was highly recommended to have this Battery Protect, as there are some situations where the CCGX will not command it off. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/House-load-relay.jpg) The main DC panel also has a larger [100 amp Battery Protect](https://amzn.to/2VLhrFF?ref=seabits.com) (upper left) between it and the house battery bank. This allows the Victron BMS to disconnect all DC loads in the event of deep discharge. The only things that are not behind a Battery Protect are the BMV-712 shunt/meter, and the Victron BMS itself. These are connected to a fused mini-panel near the main house battery, and this is the recommended configuration from Victron. You always want the Victron BMS to be connected and alive, no matter what happens. Additionally, for LiFePO4 batteries, you absolutely must have accurate state of charge and usage, hence the BMV being wired similarly. # Displays and Meters ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Main-panel-devices.jpg) There were three components to controlling the system and seeing what was going on. The [Color Control GX](https://amzn.to/2EGpT2g?ref=seabits.com) is the biggest and most complex, and is in the upper left here – not sure what happened to my photo. Below that is the [Digital Multi Control](https://amzn.to/2TmcpTm?ref=seabits.com), which is wired to the Victron BMS and allows remote control of the MultiPlus inverter. Finally, to the right of that is the circular [BMV-712 battery monitor](https://amzn.to/2TmcOoQ?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Multi-control-temped-up.jpg) The Digital Multi Control is essentially a carbon copy of the front of the MultiPlus inverter/charger. Victron specifically called out that you needed this component if you wanted to be able to adjust the current limit for your AC shore power connection, as the Color Control GX will not be able to adjust this parameter if you have a Victron BMS. Some users have commented on my other article about designing this system, indicating they did not need this, but they did not have the LiFePO4 Victron BMS, which definitely does require this. If you look at the Victron BMS wiring diagram, this device is connected directly to the BMS via a Victron (ethernet) cable. I didn’t mind having the panel as it provided an instant way of figuring out what the inverter was doing, and a quick switch to turn things on/off/inverted, which was nice. The real benefit was being able to dial in the AC shore power max current. I visited many marinas that required this due to smaller circuits, or the tendency to trip the breaker at a lower overall amperage. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-Inverter-LiFePO4-system-testing.gif) The [Color Control GX](https://amzn.to/2EGpT2g?ref=seabits.com) is a piece of art – not only can you see just about anything about your power system in one place, but you can configure tons of settings, setup alarms, and connect the whole thing to Victron’s portal to see it on your smart phone or web browser. The big color blocks showing all aspects of your power system, and the little flowing current lines are beautiful user design – everyone who visits Grace loves seeing those little lines crawling along, and can easily identify what is going on with power. If you want a great video overview on the Color Control GX combined with the BMV-712 battery monitor, check out [eatsleepvan.nz](http://eatsleepvan.nz/?ref=seabits.com)‘s 3 part series on YouTube – first part above. One challenge is the various connectors on the back of the Color Control GX, and the confusing busses available from Victron. Initially I thought I would have to purchase a bunch of different connectors, and there is some confusion around this. [My system diagram](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Grace-Victron-LiFePO4-Power-System-v2.jpg?ref=seabits.com) shows these varying communication paths, which Victron says they are working to simplify. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/CCGX-MultiPlus-AC-details.jpg) The visibility that the CCGX gives you into all parts of your system is really nice. Above you can see the AC power status including how much power I am pulling from shore side, the various voltages and Hz, and you can setup all sorts of specific alarms about this by just clicking a few buttons. Many other solutions have this info, but it is not as elegantly presented, and surely not as easy to configure and change alarms and settings. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/CCGX-MultiPlus-charger-details.jpg) The inverter/charger can be controlled and seen here as well. Tons of additional features, alarms, and visibility. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/CCGX-BMS-control.jpg) One thing that is important is to ensure that BMS control is “ON” if you are using the Victron BMS with LiFePO4 batteries. Here it is “Off” and you can’t turn it on manually – it has to detect the BMS, and I had to experiment with some off/on ordering with components to get it working. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/CCGX-charging-display.jpg) This is my top favorite screen because of how easy you can see everything from AC shore power, inverter status, how much AC power you’re using on the boat, battery status, and solar – plus the direction power is flowing. Tons of visitors who have seen the system can’t get over how easy it is to understand everything that is going on, all in one place. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/CCGX-250amp-inverting.jpg) Here’s a great screen from when I was away from the dock and spun up my Nespresso coffee machine along with a few other devices which had the inverter working pretty hard. The fun thing is the sheer amount of amps (250!) coming from the 300ah LiFePO4 battery. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-Bluetooth-device-list.jpg) The other way to see status is by using your smart phone. Victron has an app that connects to various devices via Bluetooth – on Grace that would be the battery, solar controller, and battery meter. They show up when you scan for them above. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Testing-291ah.jpg) The [BMV-712 battery meter](https://amzn.to/2TmcOoQ?ref=seabits.com) is a great addition to any boat, not just one with LiFePO4 batteries. Not only can it monitor current (via the shunt), display state of charge, and voltage, but it can also monitor a second (start, other) battery bank, have a ton of different alarms, and share it all via Bluetooth. I also connected mine to the Color Control GX which is important for a whole monitored system. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/BMV-phone-display.jpg) I use the BMV frequently when I was above decks, or in my stateroom for the night checking on things. I can see state of charge, current draw, time remaining (estimated) and other details. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/BMV-historical-details.jpg) Each device has more detailed screens, and the BMV shows details around historical discharges, voltages, and the like. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/VRM-portal-app-display.jpg) One of the best parts of the Color Control GX is the fact that you can set it up to send real time data to Victron’s Remote Management internet portal, if you have an always on internet connection. You can then get all sorts of awesome info on the portal via a web browser, or use a dedicated app for Android or iOS to see the information anywhere in the world! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-VRM-portal.png) You can see a demo of the VRM system at [https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation-overview](https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation-overview?ref=seabits.com) # Solar ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Solar-panels-both.jpg) My solar setup was the simplest part of the system. I used a similar setup to [S/V Violet Hour](https://svviolethour.com/2017/06/28/harnessing-the-sun-solar-power-on-a-sailboat/?ref=seabits.com) who made it look so simple, I decided I could do it too! I ended up [purchasing two 100W flexible panels](https://amzn.to/2SmMtmu?ref=seabits.com) and mounting them on the top of my bimini the same way they did. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Solar-panel-arch.jpg) I ran the cables down the radar pole and into the lazarette, and then to the [Victron MPPT 75/15 solar controller](https://amzn.to/2JmgrDc?ref=seabits.com). I connected the controller via Victron’s VE.Direct cabling to the Color Control GX so that it could adjust parameters and provide all of the data on the displays and online. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Solar-panel-178w.jpg) The MPPT solar controller has a Bluetooth radio in it, and you can use the same Victron app to configure and see what is going on. I saw absolutely amazing performance from the controller and panels multiple times throughout the summer – above you can see I am getting 178 watts out of two 100W panels – that is pretty amazing overall results! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Solar-performance.jpg) Using an iPad with the same app, and you get a much nicer layout. This was one of the weeks where I got absolutely phenomenal performance out of the solar system – check out that 950Wh number! # Testing ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Victron-Inverter-LiFePO4-system-testing.gif) I did extensive testing with this system both as I built it, once it was completed, and on 15 different trips this year in all sorts of conditions. However, the most important tests that I conducted were both over charging and full discharge scenarios. I wanted to ensure that all of the BMS settings, relays, and other pieces worked exactly as they were supposed to. Having either of those situations with a LiFePO4 battery could damage or destroy it, which is an expensive mistake. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Testing-VRM-app-display.jpg) I also monitored my testing via the iOS app both locally and remotely, and configured many alarms and thresholds to ensure I would be alerted in as many ways as possible to something bad going on. The over charge testing was pretty easy to do, and the BMS disconnected the charge sources (solar, inverter, alternator) as soon as those conditions were met. In fact, this happens a lot when underway after just leaving the dock with a fully charged battery. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Testing-CCGX-8-percent.jpg) Full discharge testing took a bit longer, as I actually had to drain the battery. I ran the boat without dock side AC power for most of the day, and added various small and large loads to get down as low as possible. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Testing-iPad-with-things-in-back.jpg) During the testing, I was logging everything locally on paper, monitoring the battery and battery meter via Bluetooth apps, and of course the Color Control GX was sending the data to the online portal. However, at some point, the DC house loads and everything else will go off to protect the battery, and the internet logging will stop – the CCGX will queue that data up and send it up eventually, but there will still be a gap as the CCGX goes off. In the picture above you can see the cells in the LiFePO4 battery getting lower, and in the background, the battery meter showing a total of 272.5 amp hours used so far. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Testing-inverting-0-percent.jpg) It is always a bit disconcerting to see 0% battery left – it took some getting used to that LiFePO4 can be discharged much further than a standard AGM or flooded setup. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Testing-battery-depleted.jpg) Finally, once one of the cells in the battery reached the low point, the BMS shut off all DC load relays (house loads and heater) and the Bluetooth app showed an “Under voltage alarm” and that the battery was “Busy” – discharging disabled! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Testing-291ah.jpg) Total amp hours used from the 300 amp hour LiFePO4 battery was 291.6\. That is pretty darn impressive! I only did this once to validate that all of the relays and systems shut things off – its important to ensure that happens or you could completely destroy your battery. After the testing, I setup alarms and alerts to go off around 20% left of battery capacity which would alert me both locally and remotely. That seems like a good point to intervene if things continue to discharge. # Using the System ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/CCGX-while-making-coffee.jpg) Making coffee with my Nespresso machine after 2 days on the hook at Blake Island in June I used this system at the dock tons of times just for fun and testing both connected and disconnected from AC power. Everything worked flawlessly, and was actually far less work to use than the previous systems. But I also used it on a bunch of trips this summer. ## Random Trips ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/WilhelmSK-with-SignalK-showing-battery.jpg) Using WilhelmSK on the iPad, getting data via SignalK + Victron plugin. This was on a solo trip to Eagle Island in south Puget Sound I took various trips lasting from a single night away from the dock, up to a 5 day trip with only solar and alternator charging. All told, I had over 25 nights away from the dock with the system running perfectly. There were even more trips where we never really drew the bank down that much due to the high capacity alternator keeping things topped off during the day. ## Princess Louisa Trip ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/Raymarine-showing-charging-battery.jpg) Charging via the high amperage alternator while motoring back from Princess Louisa Inlet The longest and biggest test was my [18 day trip to Princess Louisa Inlet](https://seabits.com/tag/princess-louisa-inlet/). Not only were there many nights away from the dock on the hook, but long distances, shaded sunlight in the inlet from solar, and many demanding loads on the system for the entire trip. I started not worrying as much about power as I had in the past as the system was actually designed to work as reliably as possible without much user intervention. # Conclusion A LiFePO4 based electrical system is definitely the cutting edge if you can afford it. The ability to discharge the battery so deeply, quick recharge times, and high amperage discharge rates are all great for a boat with moderate to high electrical needs. The reduction in weight and size is a huge plus for a sailboat. But this sort of system comes at a cost – both in dollars, and in complexity of installation. Having to put relays and limiting circuits in place to protect the battery, all controlled by a battery management system is not typical for boat electrical systems, and if skipped, can be a costly mistake. I think the benefits of the deeper discharge rates, less weight, more overall cycles and higher performance is well worth the investment. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Lee Scott](http://www.sabogavacations.com/?ref=seabits.com) [January 21, 2019 at 5:44 pm](https://seabits.com/installing-and-using-a-victron-lifepo4-energy-system/#comment-326) What was the total cost of the system – wiring, battery and electronics? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 21, 2019 at 6:50 pm](https://seabits.com/installing-and-using-a-victron-lifepo4-energy-system/#comment-328) Good question. I had to back and find my planning spreadsheet with all of the parts, and compare that to what I actually ended up purchasing. It was just a hair over $7800 for the whole system, including wiring and ends. Keep in mind though that I did all of my labor (including the wires and terminating) so that could drive the cost up considerably if you don’t do that work yourself. ### LunaSea navigation lights URL: https://seabits.com/lunasea-navigation-lights/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:34:16.000Z Navigation lights on older boats are a great target for an LED upgrade. However, I’ve seen some pretty terrible solutions to do this without replacing the fixtures. Recently I found an option that appears to be extremely well built and bright. Grace has the factory Hella bow and stern navigation lights. These use a festoon-type bulb, and had been updated by the previous owner to an LED of some sorts. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/IMG_3477-768x1024.jpg) I hadn’t been that impressed with the amount of light that the stern light was putting out, and after figuring out how to remove the Hella lamp cover (squeeze top and bottom together, bottom has a clip), I exposed the light inside. The light had 6 rather dim LEDs on a board. The color of the light always bothered me too – sort of an off white, too cool and almost borderline blue. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/LunaSea-festoon-navigation-LED-front-768x1024.jpg) I had really liked the quality of the [LunaSea LED anchor light I put on my mast earlier in the year](https://seabits.com/major-mast-work/), and noticed that they also made a festoon navigation light replacement. I ordered two of the [LLB-189W-21-0Z](http://www.lunasealighting.com/products/detail/pointed-festoon-9-led-navigation-light-42-mm?ref=seabits.com) from [Fisheries Supply](https://www.fisheriessupply.com/lunasea-lighting-pointed-festoon-9-led-navigation-light-bulb-42mm-llb-189w-21-0z?ref=seabits.com). I decided to order two white bulbs instead of one white for the stern, and one red/green for the bow, as the fixture I have on the bow has very dark lenses which should work fine with the white LED. > Note: beware Amazon versions of this product – I saw widely ranging prices up to $75 (Fisheries sells it for $24) and odd pictures that might not be the same light. The bulb itself is nicely made – far wider and angled on either side to ensure that the light is spread all around. In addition, the entire light is fully sealed in plastic so that it will last a long time in the marine environment. It feels extremely well built. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/LunaSea-festoon-navigation-LED-compared-768x1024.jpg) Here you can see the previous LED on the left, and the LunaSea on the right. Not only does the LunaSea have 3 more LEDs, but they’re angled more appropriately to emulate an all around bulb, and the LEDs themselves are much bigger. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/LunaSea-festoon-navigation-LED-stern-light-uncovered-768x1024.jpg) It was pretty clear when I powered it up in the stern light with the cover removed that not only was the color of the light far better, but the brightness and coverage was far safer and more complete. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/LunaSea-festoon-navigation-LED-stern-light-covered-768x1024.jpg) I did some testing in the dark, which is hard to take photos of, comparing the visibility from off center using both bulbs, and the new LunaSea was shockingly far better. The older bulb was extremely hard to see from even a small angle, which is dangerous! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/LunaSea-festoon-navigation-LED-front-bow-light-off-768x1024.jpg) The bulbs fit easily, if not a bit more snugly, into the festoon holders. Some with smaller width lights may have issues with the size of the LunaSea – it is quite wide. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/10/LunaSea-festoon-navigation-LED-bow-light-768x1024.jpg) Updating navigation lights to LED is not a new subject – I’ve seen countless articles on it before, and I usually replace them on any boat I purchase, as well as recommend the same for anyone who doesn’t already have them. However, I was surprised at the crappy quality of the ones that had been put on Grace, and should have done my own upgrade when I purchased her. I was happy to find a very high quality LED replacement from LunaSea that seems to be extremely well designed, very bright, and has a wide beam due to their design. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Timothy Daleo [October 19, 2018 at 5:35 pm](https://seabits.com/lunasea-navigation-lights/#comment-357) I was told that replacing an OEM bulb with an LED in a USCG approved navigation light voids the certification. Do the LunaSea lights hold the certification? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [October 19, 2018 at 5:39 pm](https://seabits.com/lunasea-navigation-lights/#comment-380) Good point – they don’t specifically state that they hold the certification, because they don’t know what sort of fixture they’re going into, so I suspect that would be hard to certify for everything out there. The certification mostly centers around the brightness and visibility of the light, and given that the original incandescent bulbs (I tried those too) are less bright than this, I would imagine at least the brightness requirement is met. I also know there are better lights than the 18 year old ones originally included on Grace – the plastic lenses have to be less effective than when they were brand new. I’m less worried about the certification, and more interested in whether it improves the safety side of things with a brighter, more clearly seen light at this point. [Bill Kinney](http://cruisingconsulting.com/?ref=seabits.com) [February 25, 2021 at 8:45 am](https://seabits.com/lunasea-navigation-lights/#comment-1874) I know people do it all the time, but it is generally a bad idea to install LEDs into light fixtures designed for incandescent bulbs. LEDs retrofitted into these fixtures typically do not give the designed brightness, especially with the colored lenses. “White” LEDs are not truly broad spectrum white light, but actually produce a series of narrow cut frequencies that, when averaged together by our eyes, appear to be white. The problem is that these bands do not necessarily line up well with the colored lenses that are used to filter the light from an incandescent bulb, so less light, sometimes a LOT less, gets out of the lens than would be true with an incandescent bulb of the same nominal brightness. A typical festoon style bulb has all its light coming from a single vertical filament. With the much larger light sources from an LED it is virtually impossible to be sure that the required angle of visibility is correct. Remember, that too wide is just as bad as too narrow! You will rarely get the hoped for design life out of an LED retrofitted into a fixture that is not hermetically sealed. Moisture intrudes, corrodes contacts and causes other issues. There is also the issue of VHF radio interference that is frequently poorly controlled with retrofit bulbs. Lastly, the USCG Approval of your existing light fixtures REQUIRES the use of the original bulbs as tested. By retrofitting the bulbs you no longer have USCG approved navigation lights. I am guessing if you were buying new fixtures you would not buy fixtures that did not have USCG approval, so why negate the approval of your existing fixtures? If you want to go to LED navigation lights, and there are certainly a lot very good reasons for using them, it is far better to switch to a fixture designed for them that is USCG approved as you will install it. Bill Kinney s/v Harmonie - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 25, 2021 at 9:01 am](https://seabits.com/lunasea-navigation-lights/#comment-1875) Thanks for your comments Bill. I think the subject of using retrofit LED bulbs has been covered extensively in forums and other places, and you make some good points. There were some original comments on this article a while ago (lots in the import) about USCG vs non-USCG and whether those arguments are as valid as they used to be. Yes, of course you’re not certified any longer, but many LED bulb manufacturers such as LunaSea design theirs to be brighter, and cover the same spread as the original bulb. In the case of this replacement, I can confirm that this particular bulb increased the visibility across the entire arc and range compared to the original bulb. And I will agree that a purpose built, sealed enclosure would last longer than a retrofit, but the retrofit is just that – meant to be something that gets you some additional time out of an existing fixture. In my case, I had bulbs all die at the same time, and the replacements were also bad. The LED replacement lasted for the time I needed until I replaced it with a purpose built fixture. ### Pender Harbour back to Seattle URL: https://seabits.com/pender-harbour-back-to-seattle/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:35:35.000Z After visiting [Princess Louisa Inlet](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/), one of the most picturesque places on the face of the earth, it was time to return home to Seattle. The journey from Pender Harbour back turned out to be much more difficult than getting there, but it also was just as memorable as the rest of the trip, and spawned ideas of future visits all through Canada. > This part 3 of my trip to and from Princess Louisa Inlet. [Part 1 and 2 are available here](https://seabits.com/tag/princess-louisa-inlet/). # The Route Our route back was still in flux mainly because of the weather to cross the Strait of Georgia. However, we wanted to try to go back a slightly different route – Pender Harbour to Nanaimo, then to a couple anchorages somewhere in the Gulf Islands, and finally to Friday Harbor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Map-Back-1024x699.png) Here’s the route that my data recorder captured up until the final anchorage night in Genoa Bay. I was playing with some beta test instruments at that point and the recorder stopped gathering data, but the rest of the trip was pretty standard. You can see the map on [Google Maps here](https://drive.google.com/open?id=102GxTbu-SQvYnOJt71tCFIKPtru8REY6&usp=sharing&ref=seabits.com). # The Worst Day So Far ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Pender-Harbour-leaving-1024x768.jpg) After resting half a day in Pender Harbour, our plan was to head either to Secret Cove, or try to cross the Strait of Georgia. The forecast for the next few days was not looking happy for the crossing, so it felt like we should probably cross the Strait today, based on the fact that the wind was supposed to be only 15 knots and pretty calm in the afternoon. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Pender-Harbour-leaving-astern-1024x768.jpg) As soon as we left the protection of Pender Harbour, the wind and waves kicked up. Not just a little, quite a bit – 20 knots gusting to 25 with 2-3′ waves directly on the nose. I was pounding through the waves again, heading down towards Secret Cove. After some discussions on the radio between me and Sea Bear, we decided it was better to try to cross the Strait of Georgia now rather than heading further down the coast and getting stuck waiting out the worse weather we know was coming. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Avoiding-Fraser-Navigator-AIS-1024x768.jpg) So we made the turn to point out across the Straits. I had to avoid a tug coming down out of Agamemnon Channel and AIS and my Raymarine radar helped yet again to ensure we were definitely not going to have any issues. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Map-Crossing-Straits-of-Georgia-1024x782.png) Here you can see the turn we made just a bit north of Secret Cove, and then the relatively straight path I took across the Strait of Georgia. While still in the lee of Thornamby Island, I put the main sail up, reefed to the second reef point, and threw a portion of the jib out. I knew it was going to be a beam reach across the Strait, and I wanted some sail to help stabilize things. Little did I realize how important that would be. About 30 minutes in, I knew I was in for a very eventful day. There are no pictures, videos, or other digital media, as I put everything down below, secured the entire boat, clipped my harness onto my PFD (first time this trip) and had my Garmin inReach attached to my belt. For the next 2+ hours, the boat was never really below 8 knots of speed through the water, and the wind never went below 20 knots. Several times I saw 9 knots of boat speed and 30 knots of wind. The waves were the largest I have ever been in with Grace, and I’d say some of the top 5 waves I have been in period. I was on a beam reach with the waves marching along off the port side. Grace was amazingly stable and rode the waves up and down as they came up her side, giving me a view of even more scary waves with whipped tops coming for me, and then down into the trough with nothing but water around me. I had my [Reliefband](https://seabits.com/conquer-seasickness-with-a-reliefband/) on at the highest setting, knowing I was going to get seasick. About an hour into the crossing, Sea Bear, who had been ahead of me, turned directly south and started pounding into waves. About 10 minutes later, they hailed me on the VHF and said they had a major disaster on their hands, but everyone was OK. The boat had been seriously rolled by the big waves, and cabinets that had likely seen many heavy weather passages opened and dumped their contents everywhere. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Strait-of-Georgia-Sea-Bear-damage-1024x768.jpg) This is the only picture that was taken of the damage, which was far more extensive. What is really telling is the line of the horizon – and this was when the waves had calmed down a bit. Sea Bear is a 62′, 100,000 pound Angel motor yacht, and usually very stable. Besides the damage you see above, dishes and many bottles also smashed out into companionways. The new full size fridge and gas oven hopped out of their cubbies. The worst was a bottle of olive oil on the brand new carpet in the walkway. But the most concerning was Isabelle – Steve Robert’s companion and kitty who for some reason decided the safest place in the rolly waves was on the flybridge back deck, where there are virtually no lips or railings to keep her onboard. Steve found her after frantically running around the boat searching after they were pitched to the side, and rescued her. She remained in a lower cabin (locked in) the rest of the crossing. This should give you some indication as to how big and choppy the waves were – it was pretty epic. They ended up cleaning up what they could while heading directly into the waves, which was also not too pleasant, and not the direction they wanted to go. After cleaning, they began a long process of tacking back and forth through the waves like a sailboat – a bit of progress pointed directly into the waves, and then some with the waves on the quarter. At one point, captain Holly called me on the VHF and gave me an update, and asked if I were the sailboat 3-4 miles in front of them – I was! For the first time the entire trip, I was soundly beating Sea Bear, and I was OK with that. At least everyone was safe on both boats, but none of us were comfortable. Meanwhile, I was still riding the waves, which got even larger after we passed the end of Lasqueti Island and neared the Ballenas Islands. The waves were now top 3 I’ve ever been in, and while I was worried given the conditions, the boat performed flawlessly and had no issues. She was as stable as could be, which really, really pleased me. Double reefed mainsail and a tiny part of the jib, engine at about 1/4 RPMs using the Gori overdrive propeller mode, and we were scooting along at 9 knots most of the time, and very stable. I still never left the cockpit as I knew I would get instantly sick going below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Strait-of-Georgia-Data.png) Here you can see the data my recorder was gathering, summarized every 10 minutes for the entire crossing. I was in 20+ knot winds dealing with the big waves from around noon until 15:30 – so about 3.5 hours total. It felt like a lot more than that. The data shows average winds starting out at 23-25 knots, and then “calming” down to 18-20 knots as I got further across. My speed through the water went from pounding through things at 7 knots, to a nice 9 knots the last 1.5 hours or so. You can see where I turned and was in the trough of the waves around 13:13 when the roll goes to nearly 30 degrees and stays that way until I’m across. I made the choice, being the lead boat, and given that our original plans had us going to Nanaimo (too far away now given the course I was holding) to head for Nuttal Bay with Northwest Bay being a backup location. I got into Nuttal, headed upwind, dropped the main and put away the jib, and almost instantly got massively seasick. I motored around Nuttal Bay looking for some protection, but I didn’t find hardly anywhere that would work save deep in the bay near a bunch of other obstructions. So I motored out and around to Northwest Bay which was much larger. The wind was still pretty uncomfortable even near this part of the coast, but once I got deeper into the bay it calmed down considerably. By this point I was feeling pretty horrendous due to my seasickness. Sea Bear caught up with me at that point, ready to not be on the water as well I am sure! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Northwest-Bay-Grace-rafted-to-Sea-Bear-768x1024.jpg) I couldn’t bring myself to deal with anchoring, so I did some circles while they found a good spot, and I rafted up against them. Within about 15 minutes, I was asleep – my body basically shuts down when the seasickness gets to a certain point. After an hour or so nap, I went next door to see the carnage and swap war stories. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Northwest-Bay-from-Sea-Bear-1024x768.jpg) Northwest Bay is very calm and quiet and decently protected from everything but (you guessed it) a north west wind. Sea Bear was definitely the loser during today’s crossing – it was absolutely miserable for them with the way the waves were stacked up along with the wind. We knew it might be a difficult crossing, but we were glad everyone was safe and sound on the other side. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Northwest-Bay-Izzy-from-Sea-Bear-768x1024.jpg) In particular, we were all glad Izzy did not decide to jump overboard from the flybridge! For the rest of the trip, whenever there were even threat of some rolling, we made sure she was safe belowdecks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Northwest-Bay-Sunset-1024x768.jpg) Captain Holly is now considering adding more secure latches to particular cabinets to ensure the olive oil issue doesn’t happen again. There are ongoing discussions about how to secure the fridge and oven, which are a bit more of a challenge. Nevertheless, after another wonderful dinner aboard Sea Bear, we all enjoyed the sunset, and went to bed early. # More Pounding Down the Coast ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Northwest-to-Clam-1024x723.png) The next day I was prepared for more wind and waves as we made our way down the coast past Nanaimo, through Dodd Narrows, and to Clam Bay, which is between Thetis and Penelakut Islands. We had [stayed there on our trip up to Princess Louisa](https://seabits.com/getting-to-princess-louisa-inlet-from-seattle/). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Northwest-Bay-Grace-leaving-1024x768.jpg) Steve Roberts of [microship.com](https://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) took this wonderful photo of me motoring away from Sea Bear. The bay was calm, but the usual 3′ waves with an occasional larger one came up as soon as I rounded the point. The video above gives you an idea of the wave size, although the camera always makes it look smaller. The wind was definitely around 20 knots, with higher gusts as we got closer to Nanaimo. It was a good solid 4-5 hours of plowing through this. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Islands-southbound-1024x768.jpg) There were a lot of little islands to gaze at while pounding through the waves, and I had hoped they would give me some protection, but that was not happening. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Marker-with-eagle-1024x683.jpg) Even the eagles found it too hard to fly, and just watched me motor on by. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-BC-Ferries-Nanaimo-1024x768.jpg) I was able to put up the jib a couple of times when the wind angle was right, and that helped me along a little. Once I got near Newcastle Island just a few miles away from Dodd Narrows, I had to avoid a couple of BC Ferries and the wind kicked up even more – gusting to 30 knots at points, but at least the waves had flattened out a bit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Dodd-Narrows-tugs-ahead-768x1024.jpg) As I got closer to Dodd Narrows, the traffic increased quite a bit. Sea Bear was about 20 minutes ahead of me, and had hit the narrows right at slack. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Dodd-Narrows-astern-1024x683.jpg) There were 12 boats that went through the narrows all at once, with me 11th in line. A nice captain at the head of the line made one securite call listing all of our boats which saved 11 other calls. Nice job! I was a bit worried, as about midway through the narrows I dropped to almost 3 knots speed over ground. I was slightly late from slack, but I didn’t expect it to be that bad. The power boat behind me passed me, and I was literally the last boat I saw come through during that cycle. Everyone else was going the other way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Clam-Bay-Grace-anchored-side-1024x683.jpg) The rest of the motor up the channel towards Clam Bay was absolutely wonderful. Small waves, a nice breeze to keep cool by, and the stereo cranked up! Sea Bear was about 45 minutes ahead of me at the anchorage. This was also the first time I decided to anchor Grace on this trip. Most of the ground tackle was new – new Rocna anchor, full chain rode, and the new Maxwell windlass with wireless remote. It all worked flawlessly, and the anchor set on the first try, as has been usual every time I have used a Rocna. I had a smaller one on Grace and used it a few times, but on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) I anchored hundreds of times with my older Rocna. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Clam-Bay-Grace-anchored-bridle-front-1024x683.jpg) I also had a brand new [Mantus swivel](https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-swivel/?ref=seabits.com), as well as a Mantus bridle that I had not ever used before. The bridle was quite a bit of work to get on as it’s 35′ long, which is much too long for the boat. However, it was the one recommended – I would shorten it by 15′ or so and move the chafe protection to a slightly different position. I’ve since used it pulled in further and it works really well. The chain hook is an architectural art piece, and is much more secure than the old hook I used to have. But if you really want to see some boat porn, check out the [Mantus swivel](https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-swivel/?ref=seabits.com) and the video they produced. It is a work of art, and looks like it avoids a lot of the pitfalls of previous swivels I’ve seen. Around here, you really do need a swivel with a chain rode given the swing that happens, and spins that are put on your chain. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Clam-Bay-Sea-Bear-anchored-side-1024x683.jpg) Sea Bear was anchored just a bit further south from me, and of course dinner was being served aboard! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Dinghies-off-Sea-Bear-1024x683.jpg) One thing I did decide on this trip was that my dinghy, while light and easy to handle out of the water, was driving me insane. I had gotten a deal on a floor-model Walker Bay air floor 8′ dinghy two seasons ago, and had paired it with a Torqeedo Travel 1003 electric motor. I love the motor, but the dinghy is like trying to pilot a floating pool mattress around whenever there is wind or waves. Without any sort of a keel it either suctions to the water and prevents you from turning, or it spins in endless circles when you’re trying to go straight in any sort of weather. Before dinner, we dinghied between the two islands over to Telegraph Harbour. I would have liked to have more time to explore via dinghy, try out the local pub, and see some sort of museum of flags that Steve Roberts pointed out but was closed. The route to get there is through a cut between the two islands, and you need to be extra careful to follow a chart if you haven’t been through before, as it is quite shallow even in the marked channel. We went through around high tide, and there were spots where the depth was only about 3′. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Clam-Bay-anchor-lights-1024x683.jpg) We had our own set of constellations that night in the anchorage – it was still very warm at about 85F but there was a nice breeze – one of the best nights on the water all trip! # Clam Bay to Genoa Bay ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Clam-to-Genoa-sailing-down-channel-768x1024.jpg) The next day we were going from Clam Bay to Genoa Bay, still a 34NM day, but mostly sheltered in the Gulf Islands. It was beautifully sunny and just windy enough to make a sailor happy. Before you knew it, I was sailing along myself, and loving every minute of it. It was one of those days where everything just works out perfectly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Clam-to-Genoa-sailing-MFD-angled-nice-1024x768.jpg) During this entire trip, I used the Raymarine autopilot heavily after planning courses the night before on my iPad, uploading them to the [Raymarine Axiom](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/), and then adjusting them throughout the day. While the autopilot had the helm, I could sit on any side, spin my [NavPod that I added last year](https://seabits.com/navpod-powerpod-saving-helm-station/), and still keep track of everything with great sight lines. It sure made single handing the boat on this 450NM trip easier! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Clam-to-Genoa-STW-768x1024.jpg) I even got up over 8 knots for a while, matching Sea Bear’s speed and enjoying the sun and the wind. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Clam-to-Genoa-traffic-jam-1024x683.jpg) As we approached the Sansum Narrows, there were a number of boats that we had to avoid, including two boats that had been following us for a while. Those two sailboats would spend the next 45 minutes overtaking me and Sea Bear multiple times, then doing dramatic turns with little sea room in front of both of us at random intervals. To each their own, but these two guys were irritating. Just because you’re in front of other boats doesn’t mean you rule the world – remember when we were in front of you, and made sure we didn’t cause you an issue? Be kind to your sea neighbor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Clam-to-Genoa-point-before-Clam-Bay-1024x768.jpg) The narrows, as expected, were uneventful, and we turned the corner headed to Genoa Bay. Captain Holly had stayed here before and liked not only the anchorage, but the restaurant and breakfast place on shore. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Genoa-Bay-Sea-Bear-anchored-1024x768.jpg) After one false set due to me backing down like a crazy person, we were both anchored and I went off to explore on my dinghy. There is a decent amount of room in the bay for various boats to anchor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Genoa-Bay-beached-boat-768x1024.jpg) There are a few derelict boats around the bay, and a bunch of floating houses both near the marina and back deep in the bay. It was fun exploring and before too long it was time for dinner on shore. The restaurant at the marina is fantastic – I’d say the best restaurant meal we had the whole trip! # Genoa Bay to Friday Harbor ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/05-Leaving-Canada-behind-1024x768.jpg) Goodbye Canada! South Pender Island and Bedwell Harbour in the distance. In the morning, we dinghied into the dock for breakfast – the marina and restaurant have setup a small shack on the dock that serves a very short menu, but everything is freshly made and cooked to order. I tried the waffle with sausage and eggs, and it was absolutely wonderful! A great way to start out the day. From Genoa Bay, we motored down Satellite Channel, through Colburne Passage and the busy ferry terminal, and then through Prevost Passage to the north side of Stuart Island. The tide was changing around the time we arrived at Stuart, and so we wanted to avoid Speiden Channel. The rest of the trip was pretty standard fare down to Friday Harbor. The wind and current was being unhelpful as we both tied up at the customs dock. Grace was trying to get away from the dock while I tied myself up. I don’t know why the Port of Friday Harbor or US Customs don’t put proper cleats on that dock – there’s literally nothing to tie to other than one massive cleat every 50 feet for mega yachts, and then tiny little loops for various things on the dock the size of your pinky. Several other boats had a devil of a time tying up as well. After a quick chat with Customs, who were confused why I did not have my boat number (they had not sent it to me even though I ordered it months ago) they let me go, and I went to my slip on H dock for the next day or so. Coincidentally, an hour after I tied up, US Customs emailed me and said my boat sticker and number would be shipping that day! Makes me wonder if my request was just stuck until the Friday Harbor officer fixed it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/06-Friday-Harbor-dinghy-navisafe-1024x768.jpg) I dinghied out to Sea Bear for dinner and cocktails. One of the products I have been playing with and will write about more is the Navisafe dinghy light kit, which I have been enjoying. You can get various versions of the kits which include battery powered lights that can be mounted to your dinghy in various ways. They are bright, and configurable – you can change which parts of the circular light are powered on, thereby allowing you to have an all around light, red+green, red only, etc. Very cool product! Here you can see the all around white light on the stern of my dinghy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/06-Friday-Harbor-izzy-Sea-Bear-768x1024.jpg) Isabelle absolutely loved being on Sea Bear – she had a constantly changing view of the world, and tons of places to inspect it from. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/06-Friday-Harbor-sunset-1-768x1024.jpg) Time for one last cocktail and dinner aboard Sea Bear. It was bittersweet as we had been together for 13 days by now and had shared so many wonderful experiences together, each of us being apart during the day while underway, and sharing late evenings discussing everything from the trip earlier in the day to obscure scientific discoveries. Regardless of how sad it was for the trip to end, I was so glad that I had participated in the trek to Princess Louisa Inlet. Not only was it something I have always wanted to do, but this trip re-energized my desire to cruise even more and longer distances. It really was a pivotal changing point for me and my future on the water. # Resting a Day in Friday Harbor The forecast in the Strait of Juan de Fuca did not look great for the next day, so instead of leaving when I planned, I decided to stay another day in Friday Harbor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/06-Friday-Harbor-Deer-768x1024.jpg) That day consisted of errands, provisioning, visiting Steve Roberts lab, a deer, and other randomness. I also spent some time cleaning up Grace as she had been underway for 15 non-stop days with no rest, and I had not had the water or the time to clean her decks – and they were super salty after all of the waves and wind! I also spent some time geeking out with Steve on [Datawake](https://microship.com/meet-datawake/?ref=seabits.com) and talking about his upcoming re-power and other projects that we had both been energized to do as a result of this trip! # Foggy Strait ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/07-Saying-goodbye-Sea-Bear-768x1024.jpg) After a slow loop around the anchored Sea Bear and goodbyes to captain Holly, I headed out towards the Strait, still hearing that there was dense fog but hoping it would burn off. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/07-Cattle-Pass-fog-1-1024x768.jpg) As I approached Cattle Pass, a thick wall of fog obscured the entire pass. I had my Raymarine radar all tuned up and ready, and AIS was working well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/07-Cattle-Pass-fog-2-1024x768.jpg) As I got closer, it got thicker. At this point I could probably see 1/2 NM but most of that was just shadows of boats coming towards me through the pass. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/07-Cattle-Pass-fog-3-1024x768.jpg) By the time I got into the beginning part of the pass, I could see less than 1/4 NM. The radar was absolutely required at this point. AIS helped for those that had it, but four large boats came through the pass at 10+ knots that didn’t have AIS. None of them made VHF calls, and all were going far too fast for the visibility we had. This was some of the most dense fog I had been in for a while – I’d been in Rosario a couple of years ago with worse, but it still wasn’t fun. It lasted for a good hour plus until I got away from the islands. A boat behind me called me on VHF as they’d seen me on AIS, but they had no radar. They came through behind me – I don’t know if I would have been comfortable with that without the radar! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/07-Strait-of-Juan-de-Fuca-fog-ship-1024x683.jpg) The fog dissipated, and I threw up the sails and headed for Pt. Hudson, where I had reservations for the night. There was still quite a bit of fog over near Pt. Angeles, but it wasn’t going to affect me. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/07-Pt-Hudson-sunset-2-768x1024.jpg) The wind came up right after coming around Pt. Wells, and I had an embarrassing docking experience at Pt. Hudson. I can’t think of anywhere else where I have had more docking gaffes than here – the wind always comes up from the wrong direction right as I’m making my turn into the slip, just like it did today. A 20 knot gust caught me, and I had people running down the dock to grab my lines, while I pushed off my neighbors boat to keep it safe. The sunset was wonderful, dinner was filet mignon on the BBQ, and all was well. # Back to Seattle ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/08-sailboat-Admiralty-inlet-1024x683.jpg) I was up moderately early, and out into Admiralty Inlet headed down towards Foulweather Bluff. The tides were in my favor in the morning, and I made good time down the channel. There was little wind to speak of, although this beautiful sailboat made the most of it with their spinnaker. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/08-Navy-Ship-3-1024x683.jpg) Seattle’s annual festival Seafair had just wrapped up along with Fleet Week, and up the channel came a number of warships that passed by. I particularly liked this more modern ship which is the [USS Somerset (LPD-25)](https://www.public.navy.mil/surfor/LPD25/Pages/default.aspx?ref=seabits.com), a [*San Antonio*\-class](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San%5FAntonio-class%5Famphibious%5Ftransport%5Fdock?ref=seabits.com) [amphibious transport dock](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amphibious%5Ftransport%5Fdock?ref=seabits.com) ship. The Osprey on the stern deck was pretty neat to see as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/08-Arriving-home-Seattle-768x1024.jpg) The rest of the journey was pretty uneventful – not much wind or waves, no drama, and the usual spots along the way south. I arrived back at Elliott Bay Marina and Josh met me at the dock to catch my lines. After unloading a ton of stuff, and closing Grace up, I was sad to be leaving! # Thoughts This trip was very pivotal for me on a number of levels. I realized that while working on [projects](https://seabits.com/category/projects/) is my top passion, the reason to do those projects is so you can enjoy yourself on the water, go further, and experience more. Sometimes you can forget that, and I need to spend more time doing longer [trips](https://seabits.com/category/trips/). Grace’s performance really pleased me. I motored for the majority of the trip, and the [new prop I installed earlier in the year](https://seabits.com/improvements-with-a-new-propeller/) made the journey much more comfortable. Combine that with the [LiFePO4 battery bank, solar panels, and better alternator system](https://seabits.com/correcting-the-list-lifepo4-power-system-design/), and I was able to stay on anchor longer, worry less about power, and use my Nespresso machine every day for quality coffee! The ultimate test was crossing the Strait of Georgia and her performance both directions, both while under sail. At no point was I worried about her abilities to get me across safely, and as you read above, the last crossing was not an easy one. This trip also showed me that I should spend a lot more time in the Gulf Islands. I had not visited them in years, and even when I did it was only one or two places. There are a ton of anchorages and marinas that I look forward to visiting – and so close to my home cruising grounds! The other big change I wrote about in [Sailing towards Power](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/) – this trip was a turning point for the platform that I use on the water. I have always loved sailing, but the work and projects I do on board, and the places I want to go lend themselves far more to a power boat than a sailboat. The electronics and instruments that I want to test and experiment with are far too much to jam on a sailboat, and continue to try to do longer trips with 2 or more additional guests. A lot of new ideas, new perspectives, and changes as a result of this trip. I absolutely loved it, and look forward to even more adventures in the future! You can read [Part 1 – Getting to Pender Harbour from Seattle](https://seabits.com/getting-to-princess-louisa-inlet-from-seattle/) and [Part 2 – Princess Louisa Inlet](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/) if you missed those parts of the journey. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Bruce](http://neverforever.ca/?ref=seabits.com) [October 4, 2018 at 12:07 am](https://seabits.com/pender-harbour-back-to-seattle/#comment-374) It’s funny, I’ve crossed the Strait half a dozen time in conditions like that (or close to it) and every time thanked my lucky stars we were on a sailboat. It’s probably the biggest reason not to move to power…and your trip ends up convincing you to switch. Lol. Where was your dinghy on the crossing? We discovered this spring that ours becomes airborne around the 32 knot range and its a heavy, fiberglass-hulled model. I would think the inflatable hull would be a great big kite in the high 20s. Enjoyed travelling along with you! Val Vechnyak [October 4, 2018 at 12:55 am](https://seabits.com/pender-harbour-back-to-seattle/#comment-353) Glad all ended well. I read somewhere cats and dogs feel motion sickness the same as humans. Maybe the cat felt better outside. Quick question: What instrument/device produces this nice data recording? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [October 3, 2018 at 6:50 pm](https://seabits.com/pender-harbour-back-to-seattle/#comment-389) Hi Val, Good point on the cat being outside, hadn’t thought of that. I generally feel better outside myself with the wind and being able to see the horizon well. The data recorder is something I wrote about here: [https://sailbits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/](https://sailbits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/?ref=seabits.com) It’s made by Yacht Devices, and has been a wonderful addition to the boat that I don’t have to think about. Whenever I’m done with a long trip, just pull the SD card out, pop it in my computer, and start looking through the data. You can have it summarize it, as you saw in this article, in a spreadsheet, or export GPX or KML so you can import into Google Maps (also in this article). ### Princess Louisa Inlet URL: https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/ Last updated: 2022-05-25T14:51:20.000Z I have always wanted to visit Princess Louisa Inlet, but have never had the right timing, boat, schedule, and everything else align until this year. It was an amazing experience that I will never forget, and I consider it one of the top 5 places I have ever visited – boat or not! > This is post [2 of 3](https://seabits.com/tag/princess-louisa-inlet/) on getting to and returning from Princess Louisa Inlet. # Planning One of the common jumping off points for a visit to Princess Louisa Inlet is Pender Harbour. We came up from Vancouver and the Gulf Islands, which I [covered in my previous article](https://seabits.com/getting-to-princess-louisa-inlet-from-seattle/). From Pender, our plan was to head up Jervis Inlet and the related reaches in one day, our longest distance day of the entire trip – 45 NM. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Map-1024x819.png) You can find the [real map online here](https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vBtKRTOa2IhOuN0651URIXbDlaWfdXga&usp=sharing&ref=seabits.com) with GPS tracking points both up and back. For Grace, doing 7 knots on perfect water would mean around 6.4 hours on the water. Realistically, I expected no more than 6 knots due to the tides and currents. Many people I talked to had said that the current was not much of a factor in the inlet and reaches, but I wanted to err on the side of caution. At 6 knots, that meant a 7.5 hour day on the water, which is a long time when you’re handling the boat alone. To figure out when we needed to leave, we started with finding slack tide at Malibu Rapids, the narrow bit of water right before Princess Louisa Inlet itself. This is a hard one to get right – apps like AyeTides have “Malibu Inner” and “Malibu Outer” stations, which really aren’t stations per-se, but interpolations of tides based on something else. Many guides say to use X minutes before/after Pt. Atkinson high/low tides. Ultimately, what we found was most accurate was the latter – using the offset times based on Pt. Atkinson readings. It was still not exactly at that minute, but it was far closer than anything else we found. The high tides on that day weren’t going to work for us – 5:51AM and 8:32PM. Trying to arrive by 5:51AM would require leaving in the dead of night and going up the inlets, which was not safe. Arriving at 8:32PM would mean dark with the tall mountains around the channel, and potentially arriving to a full anchorage. The only other choice was a low tide around 1:30PM, which is what we planned around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Pender-Harbour-Sea-Bear-following-channel-1024x768.jpg) Sea Bear behind Grace at about 6:30AM right after exiting Pender Harbour This meant leaving Pender Harbour at 6AM, which was one of the earliest departures we had done. Nevertheless, I cast off right at 6AM, with Sea Bear following shortly behind. One or two other boats were ahead of us, and a few more started showing up behind us about an hour later. # The Inlets and Reaches ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Agamemnon-Channel-Jervis-Inlet-1024x683.jpg) Our path took us up a number of Inlets and Reaches before we made it to the Malibu Rapids, all with really interesting names, and absolutely stunning scenery. They were: Agamemnon Channel, Jervis Inlet (north part), Prince of Wales Reach, Princess Royal Reach, and Queens Reach. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Barges-Jervis-Inlet-1024x683.jpg) Along the way there was a lot to look at besides the stunning mountains – small towns and bays are tucked away around each corner. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Jervis-inlet-hot-tub-house-1024x683.jpg) I liked the house just after we exited Agamemnon Channel and passed by Captain Island – it had what looked like a wood fired hot tub right near the tide line – that’s my kind of place! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Jervis-Inlet-mountains-from-bow-1024x683.jpg) However, the star of the show was the inlets and reaches themselves, or to be more correct, the stunning mountains around them. I probably have more pictures of this particular part of the trip than anything else. Every time we turned a corner or went around a low hill, the view got even more stunning. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Jervis-Inlet-huge-mountain-bow-jib-1024x683.jpg) I felt like I was in a completely different world – the sheer size of the mountains coming right down to the water level was something I had never experienced before while sailing. I would definitely say that part of the experience of Princess Louisa Inlet is the reaches leading up to it! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Jervis-Inlet-mountains-cockpit-1024x683.jpg) Just look at how many layers there are of hills and mountains all around! One of the other interesting things is the depth in the inlets – we passed over one area in Prince of Wales Reach that was over 2100 feet deep! Imagining the creatures that live in those deep, dark, cold waters is always fun… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Jervis-Inlet-Sea-Bear-mountains-behind-1024x683.jpg) I spent most of the journey taking pictures, sitting sideways in the cockpit and staring up up up at the mountains around us. It was absolutely magical and I loved every bit of it. The journey to the rapids was mostly uneventful – it took about what I forecast, as at times there was a 1 knot counter current. As I had been told, there was little to no wind, and very little waves, so it felt like we were on a lake most of the time. # The Malibu Rapids The Malibu Rapids are one of the biggest challenges to getting into Princess Louisa, but they’re not as scary as a lot of people make them out to be. If you plan properly, and have updated charts, you’ll be just fine. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Malibu-Raster-1024x768.jpg) I think the best charts for all of the areas in Canada we traveled in are the official raster versions from CHS. As you can see above, there are quite a bit of things to avoid when moving through the rapids. You can see a marker on the port side as you enter, things you need to avoid on both sides with a bit of a jog turn, and then a mostly straight shot through the narrowest part, being careful not to turn out too early. The challenge is that it is very narrow, especially at low tide, and the current even at slack is moving quite a bit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Malibu-Navionics-1024x768.jpg) Navionics shows the path with a lot less scary parts, but I think you should be more cautious, and I preferred the raster charts for many of these tight passages. When we arrived at the rapids, four sailboats and a tug had already gone ahead of us. I was about to make my VHF call when a boat called me named Nova Spirit. They had seen me on their AIS and asked if I was coming through, as they intended on exiting within 5-10 minutes – and they were a big 135′ yacht! I indicated myself and two other boats (someone else in front of Sea Bear we didn’t know) were coming through, and off we went. Another reason everyone should have AIS. You can watch our progression to and through the rapids above. It was tense for sure, but at no point did I feel out of control. I had two different charts on my Raymarine chart plotter up – a Navionics chart and the Canadian raster charts – side by side, with a course plotted through and far away from the rocks. In addition, I had a backup iPad sitting in the helm with the same course plotted, and a paper chart – just in case I had an electrical system failure. The current was running between 1 and 3 knots against us, even at slack, and the biggest challenge was counteracting whirlpools and eddies and weird water as we proceeded through the rapids. You can see at one point that Sea Bear, a 100,000 pound displacement hull gets pushed around a bunch even with all of that weight and power. # The Inlet ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-initially-entering-1024x683.jpg) On entering the inlet, everything gets closer and narrower than the reaches we just left. Absolutely stunning mountains and views continue… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Sea-Bear-with-mountains-snow-behind-1024x683.jpg) Sea Bear motoring along through the first parts of the inlet with stunning mountains and snow (in July!) in the background. I brought my drone and had a great time filming the mountains, waterfalls, and inlet itself. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-high-up-towards-rapids-DJI-Mavic-Platinum-Pro.jpg-1024x768.jpg) This is truly a magical place that everyone with a a boat should visit. ## The Anchorage One my biggest worries when visiting Princess Louisa Inlet was where to anchor or moor. I had read that you have two options – tying up at the small dock (potentially rafting on someone else) or anchoring around the rim near the falls with a lot of chain on your bow anchor, and a stern tie. As we arrived, we scoped out the dock, and both Sea Bear and Grace were waved off by the ranger and others. I might have been able to find a spot on the inside of the dock, but I decided to wait to see what Sea Bear did. Also, it does not appear that you can raft up with other boats anymore at the dock – no one was doing this, even though boats came in every day looking – I’m not sure if this is a new policy by the park, or if it just happened to be a fluke while we were there. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-mountains-anchorage-1024x683.jpg) The prime spot where Holly wanted to anchor Sea Bear was right in front of Chatterbox Falls, which you can see to the right. Unfortunately because it was such a hot summer, and we were visiting in late July, the outflow from the falls was not as high as usual, so anchoring close to the other boat there would not have been safe. Usually, you can anchor in the outflow of the falls, and it keeps you facing one direction at all times without stern tying. I did circles for about 45 minutes while Sea Bear found an OK spot and anchored. Once their bow anchor was set, Holly had to take a stern line in which proved to be challenging with the rocks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Sea-Bear-Grace-rafted-wider-1024x683.jpg) Since I had only 150′ of chain, and the anchorage was already filling up, we opted to raft together again as we had done in Clam Bay on our way up. Right after Sea Bear anchored, the sailboat next door showed up and anchored, but took their stern tie within a few feet of Sea Bear which was disappointing. Even though we were first, after rafting up, I jumped in my dinghy and moved our stern tie over to a rock much further away to make sure we were safer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Chatterbox-falls-outflow-and-dock-DJI-Mavic-Platinum-Pro.jpg-1024x768.jpg) Here’s a birds eye view of our anchorage – we’re the two boats on the left hand side of the picture. You can see a big rock off of Sea Bear’s starboard stern quarter – we named this the Rock of Gibraltar as it was quite huge, and came out of the water with the tide changes. There was another boat to our right, and then a large yacht anchored right out in front of the falls. Further to the right you can see the dock is pretty full. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-anchorage-from-dock-side-DJI-Mavic-Platinum-Pro.jpg-1024x768.jpg) From a slightly higher vantage point, you can see that the majority of the anchor spots are tight in against the end of the inlet, with some around the edge at the top of the photo. The large yacht in the upper left eventually relocated later in the day, most likely because that spot was not very good holding-wise. In the very bottom center, you can see a boat anchored around a small point – there are actually mooring attachment points on the sheer rock walls all along that small cove as well, and we saw 2-3 boats (including the large yacht) use those while we were there. In general, if you are going to anchor here, you need a decent length of rode, as you may be in 60-70′ of water off your bow, and a long stern tie or stern anchor setup. Stern ties are better here, and the park/someone has provided tie spots on rocks and other places in many spots around the edge of the inlet. Some are hard to spot, while others at low tide (like ours) are almost impossible to reach without major acrobatics. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-high-up-from-falls-DJI-Mavic-Platinum-Pro-1024x768.jpg) Here’s another view of the anchorage, looking the other direction, from high up above the streams that feed Chatterbox Falls. You can see the dock on the left, and the cove around the corner from there. There are other places to anchor earlier in the inlet, and even some mooring balls. Those were all taken as we came in, and they don’t give you a direct view of the end of the inlet, which I think has the best view. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Chatterbox-source-waterfall-DJI-Mavic-Platinum-Pro-1024x768.jpg) Also, this is a Provincial Park of British Columbia, and there are [rules and regulations that you should be aware of](http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/princess%5Flouisa/?ref=seabits.com). Most notably, don’t discharge sewage anywhere in the inlet. Also, for the wonderful Sea Ray that was anchored right next to us and ran their generator all night long (and it was barely muffled) – don’t run your generator outside of 9:00am to 11:00am and 6:00pm to 8:00pm. We came here to enjoy the solitude and peacefulness, not your noisy boat. ## The Water One of the most shocking things to me about the inlet is the temperature and clarity of the water. Because so much of the water comes from fresh water falls, and the Malibu Rapids are so small that not everything can be flushed out with every tide, you end up with layers of salt and fresh water throughout the inlet. And as a result, you get super warm water! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Swimming-768x1024.jpg) Grace’s temperature sensor in the water read 78 degrees, which I thought was a fluke, but it turned out to be correct! The weather was still giving us 90F plus days, so to cool off we jumped right in! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-stern-tie-SKR-swimming-midpoint-1024x683.jpg) Besides just floating around, Steve Roberts found that our stern tie was an excellent way to get some exercise while not working too hard! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-stern-tie-SKR-swimming-1024x683.jpg) I think we all turned into kids for a while every time we got in the water! I’ve been in the water at many places off the stern of all of my boats, but it usually is something you do quickly given the temperature, or because there is a problem you’re trying to fix. I felt like I could float in the water for many hours here, and that we were in a warm lake. It was absolutely wonderful! ## Exploring the Inlet ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-hiking-to-Chatterbox-1024x683.jpg) Around the backside of the main dock here is a small dinghy dock to tie up to. There are a network of trails that you can explore around the falls and general area. There are even more challenging trails that climb up into the hills, one of which ends up at an abandoned trappers cabin and can be quite challenging. We opted just to wander around on the lower trails near the falls. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-hiking-rain-forest-trees-2-1024x683.jpg) Rainforest level moss on the trees with ferns everywhere ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-hiking-rain-forest-trees-1024x683.jpg) Beautiful filtered sunlight on a 92 degree day! What we really came for, though, is to see Chatterbox Falls up close and personal. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Chatterbox-falls-warning-1024x683.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Chatterbox-falls-1-1024x683.jpg) The pictures don’t do it justice – it was wonderfully loud, wet and beautiful all in one. Part of exploring was also underwater. Both Steve and I brought our Trident [OpenROVs](https://seabits.com/trident/) and had them out and about looking for interesting things under the surface. This is one of my favorite videos from the entire trip, watching Steve piloting his Trident, and especially at about :30 seconds in when his cat Isabelle wanders over to the edge of the boat to watch what is going on. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Chatterbox-falls-distance-1024x683.jpg) One of the best ways to explore is via dinghy. The water is so flat and calm you can not have to worry about the distances required to see everything. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-me-in-dinghy-grotto-1024x768.jpg) There are all sorts of great little spots to explore around the entire inlet. We spent several hours exploring. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Sea-Bear-dingy-2-1024x683.jpg) The scale of the mountains that surround the inlet is still awe inspiring even when I think about it now. It truly felt like we were in a far distant land with fjords. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-steep-hill-1024x683.jpg) The mountains are so steep and usually covered in sheets of water and hundreds of waterfalls. British Columbia was having an unseasonably hot summer, and as a result the many waterfalls were just trickles in most cases. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-waterfall-hill-1024x683.jpg) There were still some pretty ones. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Sea-Bear-Grace-stern-view-DJI-Mavic-Platinum-Pro.jpg-1024x768.jpg) I wish I could have spent a week here – there was enough to explore and experience to fill that week up. Additionally, being able to jump in the water several times a day to cool down was a treat for those of us used to the chilly waters of the Salish Sea. All too soon it was time to head back to Pender Harbour. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-Grace-Beneteau-311-logo-1024x768.jpg) Princess Louisa Inlet truly is one of the most special places you can visit by boat. I had always wanted to do it, and I am very sorry I waited so long to make my first trip there! I will **definitely** be coming back as often as possible – it is a magical, wonderful, amazing place! # Back through the Rapids ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Princess-Louisa-Inlet-leaving-anchorage-768x1024.jpg) The tides on the way back out were a bit kinder to us – high tide was at about 7:30AM, which meant leaving the anchorage around 6:45AM for me. Sea Bear followed about 15-20 minutes behind given their faster speed. This a video of the southbound transit of the rapids. It was a completely different experience at high tide – very little current, and very little drama. You can hear me chatting with Sea Bear about midway through the video, and some fish and seal friends jumping around randomly throughout. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Malibu-Rapids-astern-1024x768.jpg) With the rapids astern, we headed back down the reaches and inlets towards Pender. # Back to Pender Harbour ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Jervis-Inlet-after-leaving-Malibu-Rapids-1024x683.jpg) I actually think the views and the light were better going this direction through the inlets. Because the sun still hadn’t made its way over the tall hills, the shadows and colors were amazing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Jervis-Inlet-Sea-Bear-beneath-mountains-near-Malibu-Rapids-1024x683.jpg) Sea Bear was dwarfed by the mountains surrounding the rapids. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Jervis-Inlet-mountains-amazing-before-sunset-1024x683.jpg) This is one of my top 3 photos from the entire trip – it personifies the absolute splendor of the area – craggy mountains, deep colors right to the waterline, and all so remote and untouched. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Jervis-Inlet-EmaaX-1-1024x683.jpg) On my way back, with 6+ hours of motoring ahead of me, I did some intensive testing of the newer E-maaX Pro alternator control system that I had installed a couple of months back. This consisted of changing a lot of parameters that changed how the alternator behaved. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Alternator-testing-1024x768.jpg) With a smaller 18HP Yanmar engine, changing these settings can impact the RPM significantly. I was able to balance things out to a charge rate of about 65 amps while under full cruising speed, and only lost about 150 RPM, which is pretty good. With the new LiFePO4 battery bank, this meant it was fully charged in only a few of hours of motoring, and I had started at less than 40% state of charge when we left the anchorage. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Pender-Harbour-John-Henry-marina-768x1024.jpg) The rest of the motor south was pretty uneventful, other than some larger waves and wind in Agamemnon Channel which slowed me down a bit. By mid-afternoon we were back at John Henry’s Marina all tied up and plugged in. Good thing too, it was at least 95F and the air conditioners were necessary! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Pender-Harbour-day-mark-bird-1-768x1024.jpg) We relaxed most of the afternoon, and went to a local restaurant via dinghy for dinner. The harbour was very still and quiet that night, which was nice for a good night’s rest. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Pender-Harbour-John-Henry-marina-store-1024x768.jpg) The next morning both Holly and I did some provisioning at the John Henry store, and got ready for our trip either south to a port, or across the Strait of Georgia. Little did we know this would turn out to be the most challenging part of our entire trip! Part 3 will cover that drama as well as much more! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Shawn torstveit [September 23, 2018 at 7:01 pm](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/#comment-350) What a wonderful blog on your Canadian voyage ! I absolutely love the spreadsheet for planning ! Super useful and efficient ! I will definitely be utilizing your example ! We hope to make the trip next spring ! [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 23, 2018 at 11:00 pm](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/#comment-356) It is a wonderful trip and I highly recommend it to anyone that has a boat! It takes some careful planning, which is where the spreadsheet really helped. [Bruce](http://neverforever.ca/?ref=seabits.com) [September 28, 2018 at 11:39 pm](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/#comment-344) I’ve seen a lot of images of Princess Louisa, but the aerial footage was simply stunning. I am surprised you got to swim, last time we were there their were Lions Mane jellyfish warning everywhere. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 29, 2018 at 4:38 am](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/#comment-381) Thanks Bruce! The drone has allowed me to see views of many places that I could have only dreamt of before. It really was great to be able to fly it at Princess Louisa and see the stunning views from a different perspective! We swam after we first arrived as it was 95F / 35C that day and we were dripping with sweat. We hadn’t be in to the ranger station and seen the warning. But a lot of other people were doing it too, and we were careful after we saw that warning. Steve [October 16, 2018 at 12:59 pm](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/#comment-348) Planning my first trip up to Princess Louisa Inlet next May. I’m wondering if you have any additional thoughts on calculating the timing of slack at Malibu Rapids. You wrote that you entered at or near slack, but you had up to 3 knots of current against you! Do you think that there’s a better station to use? Doesn’t CHS have a prediction for Malibu? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [October 16, 2018 at 6:13 am](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/#comment-387) Hi Steve, From what we learned, there are tide apps like AyeTides and others that have stations for Malibu Rapids (Inner and Outer) which aren’t as accurate as you think. We used one for the trip through, and ended up showing up a bit late. The most accurate is to use Pt. Atkinson and the offsets that CHS publishes in their tide chart book. I think around the time we were going it was 30 or 35 minutes off one way, and 20-25 the other. I can’t remember which one, and those books are packed up while I move boats, but I can check in a month or so. The other thing to keep in mind is even at slack, there is so much water trying to get in/out of that huge, deep inlet, and such a small entrance, that there are times where there never is a no current slack. The early morning when we left, you can see that there was very little current, but even before we got through on our way up, others reported 1-2 knots. ### Getting to Princess Louisa Inlet from Seattle URL: https://seabits.com/getting-to-princess-louisa-inlet-from-seattle/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:38:41.000Z This year I finally made it to a place I have always wanted to see – Princess Louisa Inlet. The trip was an epic one – over 450 NM in only 17 days, and all done solo! There were so many adventures and pictures, I had to split this up into 3 separate posts. > This is [post 1 of 3](https://seabits.com/tag/princess-louisa-inlet/) on how I got from Seattle to Princess Louisa Inlet and back again. # Planning I had done a lot of planning for this trip – from routes and fuel stops, water usage amounts, detour harbors in case of weather, and much more. The main reason I may have over-planned parts of the trip was that I was going to be on my boat, solo and I wanted as much information and alternatives as possible in the event of an issue. For the majority of the journey, I would be traveling with another boat, but I still had to run mine alone. The other boat I was traveling with was a 62′ Angel motor yacht named Sea Bear. On board was captain Holly, along with longtime friend Steve Roberts of [microship.com](https://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com), and initially a couple of other family members. For the majority of our trip, it would just be the three of us – myself on Grace, and Holly & Steve on Sea Bear. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/01-Planning-Nespresso-1024x768.jpg) Provisioning was somewhat simplified because we would be crossing into Canada in the first few days of our journey, and you can’t take a bunch of things across the border. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Planning-Google-Sheets-Princess-Louisa-Trip-1024x597.png) My primary planning tool is a Google Sheets spreadsheet that I’ve refined over the years. It started out as a main page in my book on the boat that I kept updated with the journey plans, migrated to Excel on the PC, and with the advent of cloud-based solutions, a Google Sheet that I can access from any device, including offline ones in the middle of nowhere. I can also share it with other people on the journey so they can contribute or review. I’ve made a [public copy of the basic sheet here](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/12FGuEY6JPlARpIM4Rm37TxXTlrCXIgFuSbhR4owGYuo/edit?usp=sharing&ref=seabits.com) if you’re interested in copying/downloading. It has the data from this trip in it just to show you how it works. There are a few things that this sheet helps with. First, it lists every location I am departing and arriving at, which helps for my on-shore crew and float plans, as well as when I need to contact the marina. It includes locations, phone numbers, whether I have reservations (if it is a marina) and the pages in the Waggoner and Salish Sea Pilot guides so that when I need to pull those up closer to arriving, I don’t have to fumble around for them. Second, it has distances based on pre-planning using Navionics on an iPad, and helps me determine how long I will be on the water and how much fuel I will burn. Grace has a 17 gallon diesel tank, and she burns about 0.71 gallons/hour, and adding this info helps plan fuel stops. The bottom section of the sheet drives the overall calculations – I can change my base speed, which I set to 1 knot slower than my overall speed of 7 knots when planning due to tides and such, and adjust other things like safe gallons of fuel, hourly burn rates, etc. The sheet itself is pretty simple – just a few formulas and pieces. It’s very easy to use, and I sometimes add/remove columns depending on the trip requirements. One of the columns I add is food/provisions, and that links to a separate sub-sheet that will show the menu for the day, and have a running total of some provisions that are important (milk, cheese, meat, alcohol as an example) and allows the part of the crew who do meal planning a way to see if we’re eating out, dining in, and what we need to purchase. Overall it has been a pretty good system for longer journey planning. I print out a couple of copies before I leave, and sync it to my Mac, PC, iPhone, iPad, and Android devices so I have plenty of backups. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Google-Map-Full-1024x730.png) Most of my journey I recorded on my Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder, and for this part of the trip I have a [public Google Map with all of the points on it](https://drive.google.com/open?id=18dddQhd6CuuLGxLBtP5MKub7eYkRBpRR&usp=sharing&ref=seabits.com) that you can explore. # To the San Juans ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/01-Leaving-Seattle-1024x768.jpg) I left Seattle on a beautifully sunny day headed to the Port Townsend area. The majority of the day was uneventful, although I wasn’t getting the same speed through water I was used to. I was concerned it was from adding the windlass and chain in the bow, but wasn’t able to prove that. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/01-Fishing-vessels-on-radar-1024x768.jpg) There were a lot of fishing boats out on the water, and the radar helped me avoid the majority of them. My original plan was to anchor somewhere near Port Townsend, but I was nervous doing this as I had not anchored Grace with the new windlass setup, and it was pretty windy when I arrived at Port Hadlock, my first choice for anchoring. After motoring around a bit in the bay, I decided to try calling Port Townsend Boat Haven and they had an open slip! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/01-Pt-Townsend-sunset-1024x683.jpg) After a quick dock and a relaxing dinner, I was treated to a beautiful sunset from the cockpit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/01-ROLI-and-piano-1024x768.jpg) I brought a couple of keyboards on this trip, since I had plenty of room while sailing solo. The [iRig Pro](https://amzn.to/2ELcCoZ?ref=seabits.com) is a great, small keyboard that plugs directly into an iPad to generate sounds. I’ve had it on the boat a long while, and it is OK. The action is not that great, but the small size is nice for a sailboat. In the last year I have been spending more time playing the [ROLI Seaboard RISE](https://amzn.to/2Tm8Exx?ref=seabits.com) which I have fallen in love with. It uses Bluetooth to connect to my iPad while portable, but can also connect to a PC or Mac via a USB cable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/02-Nobeltec-Cattle-Pass-1024x768.jpg) Day 2 saw me crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and I chose to explore the iPad app from Nobeltec as part of the planning process. I know several people who love this app, while I prefer Navionics. It worked very well for planning the day’s journey, and shows tides a bit more clearly than Navionics. The journey across was very uneventful, and I had some helpful tides most of the way. There was very little wind, so I ended up motoring most of the way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/02-Mt-Baker-entering-San-Juans-1024x683.jpg) I entered the San Juan Islands in mid-afternoon through Cattle Pass, and coordinated with Steve Roberts of microship.com to do some photos while arriving in Friday Harbor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/02-SKR-Hobie-2-waving-1024x683.jpg) Steve came out on his Hobie trimaran and we spent the next few minutes dodging other boats, planes, ferries, and the like while taking pictures. Steve got a great video of me on Grace motoring into the harbor. After getting fuel, and botching the first docking attempt due to currents near the H dock, I was tied up and secure, awaiting the second boat in our group. Sea Bear was in a Sidney boat yard having shaft and bearing work done, unexpectedly, and we were worried about meeting up on time. Thankfully, the boat yard performed miracles, and late the night before we were supposed to leave, she motored across and tied up at the breakwater at Port of Friday Harbor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Phosporesence-POFH-1-1024x768.jpg) While at the Port of Friday Harbor, there was quite an algae bloom within the marina, and warm temps. That evening while helping Steve Roberts move onto Sea Bear for the trip, I saw the most dramatic phosphorescence I’ve ever seen. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Phosporesence-POFH-4-1024x768.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/02-Phosporesence-POFH-3-1024x768.jpg) The pictures don’t do it justice – it was absolutely stunning, and I spent quite a bit of time in the dinghy with Steve taking pictures of me making waves! After getting Steve and his cat Izzy moved over to Sea Bear around midnight, it was time to get some sleep before our long day into Canada. # Gulf Islands ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/Friday-Harbor-to-Clam-Bay-1024x734.png) Our route from Friday Harbor to Clam Bay, with a stop in Bedwell Harbour. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Bedwell-Harbour-SeaBear-distance-1024x768.jpg) Our first stop on our combined journey was [Bedwell Harbour](https://trailertrawlerlife.com/clearing-customs-bedwell-harbour/?ref=seabits.com) in Canada to check in via customs. I have never checked in here before, but it was super easy. There are a decent sized set of docks, and a set of phones to dial in and check in. I had never brought Grace into Canada, so there were a few more questions than normal. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Grace-in-Bedwell-Harbour-SKR-1024x768.jpg) Grace departing Bedwell Harbour – picture by Steve Roberts Sea Bear’s captain, Holly, has checked in here many times before. Usually there are no customs agents here, but this time there were two working with another boat that had some issues. After we were both checked in, we headed up into the Gulf Islands towards our night’s destination – Clam Bay. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Sea-Bear-Angel-65-Gulf-Islands-1024x683.jpg) Sea Bear is a beautiful 62′ Angel motor yacht. I spent most of my evenings aboard her for the trip, and many times rafted up beside her. Here she is motoring north with the rugged Gulf Islands behind her. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Gulf-Islands-rocks-2-1024x683.jpg) The rocks were something I took tons of pictures of – they’re just so dramatic and beautiful in the Gulf Islands. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Gulf-Islands-rocks-4-1024x683.jpg) Pictures don’t do it justice – the colors and shapes are quite a bit different even than the San Juan islands. Clearly, a lot of crazy tectonic and volcanic things happened to create these islands. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Gulf-Islands-sailboat-1024x683.jpg) There were not that many boats as we proceeded up the channel towards Clam Bay. A few sailboats, some big BC Ferries headed towards Active Pass, and a few others heading south. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Grace-SeaBear-rafted-Clam-Bay-768x1024.jpg) This was a moderately long day with some tides that slowed me down a lot more than Sea Bear. The anchorage at Clam Bay was a lot more crowded than I expected, so we opted to raft up for the night, a trend that continued a lot throughout the trip. Rafting is something I had avoided in the past just because of privacy and such, but in this case with me sailing solo, and Sea Bear having a bit more room (understatement of the year) it made sense and saved dinghy trips and time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Izzy-Clam-Bay-768x1024.jpg) Steve’s wonderful companion Izzy seemed to have settled in just fine on Sea Bear, and loved all of the visibility and different things to look at while underway, and at anchor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/03-Clam-Bay-sunset-1024x768.jpg) Day 1 of our combined journey (day 4 for me) ended with a beautiful sunset and continued warm temperatures. Tomorrow we had an early start to catch slack at Gabriola Passage, and then cross the Strait of Georgia to Vancouver! # Crossing the Strait of Georgia ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/Clam-Bay-to-Vancouver-1024x737.png) Clam Bay to Vancouver. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Clam-Bay-departing-raft-SeaBear-1024x768.jpg) Early the next morning, I set out about an hour ahead of Sea Bear due to my speed and tides. Sea Bear could maintain 8 knots without any issues, while I seemed to be stuck around 6.5 knots as an average at this point in the trip. I needed to arrive at Gabriola Passage at slack tide and pass through into the Strait of Georgia. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Gulf-Islands-log-tug-3-1024x683.jpg) On the way up the channel to the pass, there was a tug working a huge section of logs, with a guy running around on the floating logs helping out the process. We saw this several times on our journey, but this particular one was a choreographed dance between the tug and the guy running around, and was beautiful to watch. I was a bit early arriving to the pass, so I slowed down and enjoyed the show for a while. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Gabriola-Passage-1024x683.jpg) Gabriola Passage was at slack when I entered, and didn’t pose any issues. There were a little swirly whirlpools right at the narrowest part, which you can see just in front of me in the picture above. It is a pretty narrow pass at that point, so best to call out on the radio that you’re passing through and your direction. That is a very common thing in Canada for small passes, dangerous transits and the like, and I wish we did it more in the US. Also, you really should learn the proper pronunciation of sécurité – having worked for French companies for a large portion of my life, it is embarrassing to hear an American accent saying “security” over and over – see [this pronunciation guide](https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/s%C3%A9curit%C3%A9?ref=seabits.com) for more info. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Strait-of-Georgia-Gulf-Islands-astern-768x1024.jpg) Sea Bear caught up to me just after I entered the Strait of Georgia, and we were on our way crossing some fairly big water, headed for Vancouver. The forecast was up to 20 knots of wind with 3′ waves, and the Strait didn’t disappoint. From the beginning, we were seeing easily 2′ waves with 15-18 knots of wind. I threw out the jib and put the Gori prop into overdrive mode, dropped the engine revolutions, and enjoyed sailing. I got a good 360 view video while underway. It was a fantastic 2 hour sail across the strait. Steve Roberts got a great video from Sea Bear of me underway. Pretty rare to get pictures of your own boat, videos are even more unlikely – love this one! # Vancouver ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Vancouver-harbor-AIS-1024x768.jpg) Our destination was False Creek in Vancouver for the night. The harbor was mildly busy as we approached, and the AIS+radar setup on Grace was very helpful in planning to avoid multiple tugs, fast ferries, and a wealth of other things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Vancouver-skyline-arriving-2-1024x768.jpg) Vancouver looked beautiful as we arrived, and after a short motor up False Creek, we were moored at Pelican Bay marina. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Vancouver-houseboats-bridges-1024x768.jpg) That afternoon we spent on Sea Bear enjoying one another’s company, dinghying around False Creek, and then went out for a wonderful dinner at a local restaurant. Holly had some relatives on board that made the afternoon and dinner very lively and fun. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Vancouver-houseboats-1024x768.jpg) There is lots to see in False Creek, and I only wish I had a slightly bigger dinghy at the time so I could have dealt better with the waves. I will definitely be back to explore more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/04-Vancouver-False-Creek-night-1024x768.jpg) # Pounding up to Secret Cove ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/Vancouver-to-Secret-Cove-1024x557.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/05-Leaving-False-Creek-1024x768.jpg) The next morning we went shopping at the market on Granville Island, which is great for provisioning. We then left Vancouver headed towards Secret Cove, a long 38NM day up the Sunshine Coast. Holly had warned me that the waves and wind could be unpleasant for the first hour or so. The waves were really bad inside the harbor, and around the corner near Bowen Island it got even worse. I’d estimate they got to about 4′ tall and very close together, and Grace did not make more than about 4 knots SOG for over 2 hours. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/05-Strait-of-Georgia-before-Secret-Cove-1024x768.jpg) It was a very long 7 hour day of pounding directly into 2-4′ waves, making slow progress up the coast towards Secret Cove. It was one of the longest days of the entire trip with little rest from the waves. The Sunshine Coast lived up to its reputation! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/05-Raymarina-Axiom-Quantum-Radar-AIS-tracks-and-SeaBear.png) All during this trip, I used the radar and AIS functionality of my Raymarine setup to help with tracking other ships and potential issues. Above you can see a radar contact that was a bit too close for comfort, and a few others in the distance including Sea Bear and an AIS boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/05-Secret-Cove-Victron-Solar-performance-2-473x1024.jpg) One of the new additions this year was the 200W solar panels and Victron MPPT controller. During this trip, we were seeing sunny days, and temperatures in the 90’s. The solar panels did amazingly well at handling the daily loads on the boat which meant the alternator wasn’t taking RPM’s away from the engine while motoring. The performance of the panels and controller was impressive – 700 plus watt hours pretty constantly, and that whopping 910Wh day you see above. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/05-Secret-Cove-store-1024x768.jpg) Secret Cove was absolutely beautiful. There’s a great fuel dock & store on-site – the store itself is quite large and I was surprised at how much it had for sale. The marina staff are absolutely wonderful and helpful, and the location is quiet and secluded. I will definitely be returning here in the future. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/05-Secret-Cove-sunset-Grace-docks-1024x768.jpg) Such a beautiful place! # Pender Harbour ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/06-Secret-Cove-coffee-1024x768.jpg) This was the first morning that we didn’t have a long day planned on the water, so a little relaxation was in order with my morning latte aboard Sea Bear. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/Secret-Cove-to-Pender-Harbour-1024x802.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/06-Secret-to-Pender-sailing-1024x683.jpg) I even got an hour or so of sailing in at the end of our short 2 hour trip, hitting about 8 knots speed through water and catching up to Sea Bear. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/06-Pender-Harbour-day-mark-1-1024x768.jpg) We stayed at [John Henry’s Marina](http://www.johnhenrysresortmarina.com/?ref=seabits.com) in Pender Harbour, which was a nice little spot in Hospital Bay. I think the marina was purchased by someone new in the last year or so, and they’ve redone the camping area and updated the store that is on site as well. The dock staff was one of the most enthusiastic I’ve seen in a long time, and even helped me move to a different spot further into the marina, closer to Sea Bear, and more sheltered. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/06-Pender-Harbour-1024x768.jpg) Pender Harbour has a ton of bays to explore via dinghy. We looked around a bit in Sea Bear’s higher speed dinghy, and went to dinner at a local restaurant which had great food. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/06-Pender-Harbour-sunset-1024x768.jpg) The forest fires were causing some air pollution, and it was still 90F or hotter during the day, which meant for some beautiful sunsets. Grace’s air conditioning earned its keep. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/01-Google-Map-Full-1024x730.png) Here’s the Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder data from this part of the trip. I only had it on from Pt. Townsend onwards, and you can see the general routes we took. You can see this [on Google Maps here](https://drive.google.com/open?id=18dddQhd6CuuLGxLBtP5MKub7eYkRBpRR&usp=sharing&ref=seabits.com). Next up – the final leg to [Princess Louisa Inlet](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet/) including Jervis Inlet, the Malibu Rapids, and the Inlet itself! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Kevin McLaughlin [October 29, 2018 at 11:45 pm](https://seabits.com/getting-to-princess-louisa-inlet-from-seattle/#comment-385) In the video, Grace appeared to handle motoring upwind with less slamming than my 35 foot Jeanneau SO 36.2\. I wonder if having my fifty gallon bow water tank empty on those upwind passages would improve seakeeping. My last trip after the Wooden Boat festival from PT to Bremerton into a 20knot Southerly against a flooding tide was a real pain, I had to go so slow, and by late afternoon the wind was really howling into Port Madison, preventing me from going west towards Agate Passage. There is so much fetch hitting that Indianola south shore in a southerly, and the resultant chop is tightly spaced and hard to endure on the beam, necessitating a longer passage south before turning west and getting into the lee of Bainbridge Island. Otherwise, enjoying your content very much whether it be cruising or equipment related. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [October 30, 2018 at 2:08 am](https://seabits.com/getting-to-princess-louisa-inlet-from-seattle/#comment-391) Hi Kevin, I usually had Grace’s water tank full whenever possible – sort of a mantra I learned long ago on any boat – never to leave the dock without a full water tank if you can. In most of the videos I posted, I am pretty sure I had nearly a full tank. Her one and only water tank is in the v-berth under the center portion of the berth, so plenty forward. In addition, earlier that month I added 150′ of all chain rode to my anchor system, replacing much lighter rope, and adding a decent amount more weight as well. So perhaps more weight would be a better thing? Not sure that is the case though. I didn’t get a video of it, as I was a little busy, but on the way up the Sunshine Coast, leaving Vancouver and passing around Bowen Island, I hit some of the worst choppy waves I’ve been in for a long time. 4-6′ tightly spaced nasty waves breaking constantly, and constant pounding into them directly. Things were jumping around everywhere, and at that point I do wish I would have had less weight in the bow at least to see the difference in motoring characteristics. Ah, I have been on the north end of Bainbridge many times with a bad south wind. I know the waves you’re talking about – having to pound much further south than you really want to just to avoid that nasty shallow fetch that develops in there. ### Sailing towards power... URL: https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:40:10.000Z I have owned sailboats for most of my life and have always loved the feeling of being under sail. In recent years, I’ve discussed moving to larger sailboats, or changing the entire substrate to something different to allow me to do more with my work with tech on boats. After spending the last 3 years on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) focused on systems integration and [projects](https://seabits.com/tag/projects/), I’ve come to the decision that moving to a bigger platform is the best way I can continue my projects. ## Grace for Sale! To that end, **I’ve put Grace up for sale** – you can see all of the details, specs, equipment, photos, videos and more at [Grace – 2000 32′ Beneteau 311 Sailboat for Sale](https://seabits.com/grace-for-sale/). Grace has been an amazing part of our family, and I’ve poured a lot of time and effort into improving just about every system in the last 3 years. I’ve learned so much about modern power systems, been able to investigate integration of tons of instruments on my [crazy NMEA 2000 network](https://seabits.com/graces-updated-network-2017/), and built a fully integrated Raymarine system that virtually runs the boat while moving. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/2Ghz-Wifi-Spectrum-1024x574.png) Wonderful graph from a spectrum analyzer looking at 2.4Ghz WiFi My favorite area of projects has been around [networking and WiFi](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/), and love the response from the communities who have read and reacted to those articles. I want to continue expanding this area – there are so many new technologies and products that I think boaters could benefit from. I want to continue integrating, building, and testing everything technical that I can put on a boat. If anything, this choice has made my desire to do tech on boats **increase**, knowing that I am entering into a new world with more possibilities. ## Motor Yachts As a result, I am moving to the world of motor yachts! Some people call this “going to the dark side” and I can see how die-hard sailors could look at it that way. Heck, even a few years ago I looked at it with a fairly negative attitude. But I have started to see the appeal. It’s not something that I just decided to do on a whim – I’ve discussed it before with my significant other, even around the time we purchased Grace. We had thought that in 5-10 years, switching to something like a trawler would be perfect. The reasoning behind it was mainly around health and comfort – that by that point we’d be more comfortable on a boat that did not require as much physical work as a sailboat. I am aware that there are larger sailboats which are just as comfortable in many ways as a motor yacht, but the requirements we had talked about would have required a much, much larger sailboat. My crew also surprised me when I started discussing this change with them – they all love sailing, but would rather have more room and more comfort in a similarly sized vessel, and they all seemed really interested in the idea. Not having sails is definitely a big decision, and not one I took lightly. In the last 2 years, I have motored almost 80% (likely higher in many cases) of the time on longer trips. Motoring on a sailboat is nowhere near as comfortable as a motor yacht. I love sailing, but I seem to love playing with technology and going from place to place more… ## The Tipping Point In the last year, I have had the opportunity to visit a number of other yachts in the Seattle area – sometimes just with friends and other times folks I have met through SailBits who were in need of help. The majority of them were power boats of some sort, ranging in age from the 1970’s up to brand new deliveries. The main thing that kept resonating with me was the amount of space available for not only comfort, living, sleeping, and enjoyment, but more importantly for technology and gear. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/IMG_3611-1024x990.jpg) The author on Sea Bear with … Izzy the cat! Photo courtesy of Steve Roberts On my recent trip to [Princess Louisa Inlet](https://seabits.com/princess-louisa-inlet), I followed a 62′ Angel named Sea Bear and spent almost every evening aboard after being on the water in Grace during the day. I learned a lot more about yachts of this type and vintage, and really fell in love with the idea of a motor yacht. Space also would be great to have for tools and even a small work bench. I have had to do some crazy things with Grace and Jammy as I live in a condominium and have no other suitable work areas. After spending 5 days aboard Sea Bear on a recent cruise around the San Juans, I realized that instead of waiting 5-10 years, maybe it was time to look at something sooner. I really enjoyed the overall experience, and realized that not only would it give me more space for tech stuff, but a more comfortable experience overall for the type of cruising I want to do. ## The Platform I have some very specific goals for the next platform, and they seem to be met by what can generically be called a trawler. In general, I’m looking for something along these lines: - 40-46 foot LOA – this seems to be the most popular size of slips in the area I want to cruise. While I definitely want to anchor as much as possible, having a slip is always nice after a long day. Going any larger and I would worry about complicated wait lists, and of course higher fees. - 2x diesel engines – for some level of redundancy, I would like to have two engines. I could be convinced to go with one, but it seems there are few choices for that beyond 45′ - 8 – 10 knots cruising speed – I don’t need anything faster – I like enjoying the view, and am used to 5-6 knots from the sailboat world. It would be nice to have the ability to burst beyond 10 knots, but it is not required. - 4-5 gallons per hour max consumption - Generator & decent sized inverter / house bank - Decent sized diesel, water, and holding tanks for 1-2 week trips - Queen island berth for master stateroom - Decent second berth for guests - 2x heads with showers in both - Large salon for entertaining/living - Frige, freezer and ice maker - Diesel heat - Flybridge driving station There are a lot of other nice-to-haves, such as air conditioning, bow thruster, etc. but the core items above would be the start of a very good platform. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/09/DeFever-44-1024x576.jpg) DeFever 44 – image courtesy of DeFeverCruisers.com Based on my research, my favorite brands are DeFever, Tollycraft, Island Gypsy and Ocean Alexander. I particularly prefer the DeFever 44 which has a fantastic layout, great stability, wonderful lines, and a rare stand-up engine room, among other things. I seem to like both the styling (and the pricing) for models made from 1980-1995. If you have other recommendations, I’d love to hear about them in the comments! ## New Challenges I’m curious to see the work I’ve done for 20+ years on my own sailboats from a completely different viewpoint – that of the motor yacht. I’m also really interested in new areas to explore that I would not have had exposure to on a smaller sailboat – larger engines, multiple engines, generators, and the complexity that comes with a bigger vessel. Most of all, I’m interested in trying something new both as a platform to work on, and a cruising boat! ## The Future What does this mean to the future of SailBits and to the type of projects and reviews I would be involved with? I believe this change will even further grow the site and the exposure, the types of articles I’ll write, and the depth of my experience and testing. I have no intention of changing what SailBits does, or reducing the amount of focus on DIY projects and technology. In fact, if anything, this change will drive even more new ideas and articles in the near future. I’m very excited about the future, and can’t wait to share the journey to power with you as well! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Bob [September 7, 2018 at 11:02 am](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/#comment-366) I am curious if you considered a sailing catamaran? It gives you many of the things you listed but you don’t have to give up the sails. 🙂 - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 7, 2018 at 10:03 pm](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/#comment-399) I don’t think I would like a catamaran. They seem to be very popular, but I look at them having a lot of similar challenges as a sailboat. Of course, they have some benefits too in terms of speed and more space, but ultimately I would like a ton more space, which you can really only get with a motor yacht. Most of the yachts I am looking at are a max of 4 gallons per hour at full cruising, and much less if you go slower. I am willing to pay that difference for the extra space and comfort! Richard Cassano [September 7, 2018 at 5:53 pm](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/#comment-393) Ben, For the most part, I can not agree more with the transition to trawler. I’ve had my Tashiba 40 sailboat for 21 years and motored 80% of the time. We did have some spectacular sailing days, which provide great memories, but I have motored from the Chesapeake all the way to Maine a few times. Very disappointing! For me, the 1.5GPH on my sailboat kept me from switching especially when fuel prices spiked to $5.50 a gallon. The other alternative to consider is a catamaran with mega space, two engines and still have the ability to sail and anchor in shallow coves. You just have to find a yard that can haul a cat. Wish you luck finding a new platform for technology. Roberta [September 12, 2018 at 2:20 pm](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/#comment-346) LOL, we just went through the same epiphany and bought a 1994 Ocean Alexander sub deck for cruising the PNW. Only difference is that we still kept our Islander 36 (in Baja). The power boat seems like a mansion, enjoy! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 12, 2018 at 10:04 pm](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/#comment-358) Thanks Roberta! I’m excited because of the room that I’ll have to continue doing testing and networking and other tech stuff. We are considering OA as well, along with Tollycraft and DeFever and a few others. Glad you like your OA! Mark McGovern [September 16, 2018 at 3:25 pm](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/#comment-383) Big decision! If the crew in fully on board that makes a huge difference. The big question is the domain name “trawlerbits.com” available? 😉 Despite your move to “the dark side”, I will continue to follow your journey. I am sure that the majority of the information you will continue to share will transcend the kind of boat you choose to explore in. Good luck with the boat search! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 16, 2018 at 10:05 pm](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/#comment-396) Thanks Mark! I have some ideas on the domain and branding on the site, but ultimately I will still be sailing on the water doing techy stuff, just not with actual sails 🙂 And you’ve definitely hit the nail on the head in terms of my focus – what I will be doing on a bigger power boat will still benefit sailors of sailboats, and everyone else on the water! Lee Jetton [September 29, 2018 at 8:25 pm](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/#comment-362) Just remember the old adage, “You go from a sailboat, to motorboat, to a motor home, to the rest home, to the funeral home.” Try to stay with the former 2\. Might consider Gulfstar 44 motoryacht. It has almost everything on your wish list. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 29, 2018 at 10:06 pm](https://seabits.com/sailing-towards-power/#comment-369) Thanks Lee! I have heard that adage, and I am long way off from the last two. I’ve sailed for 20+ years, so I figure I have at least that left in motor yachts. Thanks for the suggestion on the Gulfstar 44\. It looks very similar to the Tollycraft that we’ve seen. ### MikroTik Groove step-by-step setup guide URL: https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:23:12.000Z The [MikroTik Groove](https://amzn.to/46uIs4x?ref=seabits.com) is a fantastic product to use as a marine WiFi booster. However, it is not the simplest device to configure. This guide covers setting up and configuring the Groove for initial use, and some additional recommendations. Other articles I’ve written that cover more details on configuration and usage: - [Modular, cheaper boat internet solution via Netgear and MikroTik](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/) - [Grace’s redundant Internet setup](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/) - [Marina WiFi is hard](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) # Usage There are a couple of different ways you can use the MikroTik Groove, the most common being an outdoor “booster” to grab remote WiFi signals and pipe them to a device on board your boat belowdecks. This device is usually a router that can use the Groove as an Internet source, and then shares it out on your boat with your own personalized WiFi network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Affordable-boat-internet-two-tamales-1.jpg) Sometimes folks use the Groove to connect directly to a laptop instead of an internal router, but this limits other people on board from being able to take advantage of the Groove. The Groove will not function as both a remote WiFi grabbing device, and a WiFi router where it broadcasts a local network – this is a common question I get. The Groove can either be a client and grab a remote signal, or it can be a server or access point, and serve as your local WiFi network. I wouldn’t recommend the Groove for the latter, but instead the [MikroTik hAP AC](https://amzn.to/2Cb7dY1?ref=seabits.com) – check out my article on [Modular, cheaper boat internet solution via Netgear and MikroTik](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/) for more details. # Why do I need one? Short answer: read [Marina WiFi is hard](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/). If you visit a marina, and you expect to connect to their WiFi network, you need some sort of external antenna or booster. Some Peplink products allow you to use a feature called WiFi as WAN which may work, but most of the time having an external, dedicated antenna or device is required for a stable connection. Expecting all of your devices inside your boat to work with a wireless access point that has a billion other people nearby, with boats, metal masts, and other interference is one of the biggest misconceptions in marine WiFi. You need some way of amplifying the signal. # Getting Started ## Connecting your Computer There are two ways to configure a MikroTik device – via a web browser, or via [Winbox](https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Manual:Winbox?ref=seabits.com). I prefer using the browser as it works from any operating system, even an iPad, while Winbox is made for Windows. You can run Winbox on Mac or Linux if you want to go through the headache of setting up Wine, which I don’t care to do. If you prefer Winbox, these instructions may not match all steps in that interface. To get started with connecting, you will need to power the Groove via a PoE adapter – usually the one that it came with. Follow the instructions on what port goes where. You should end up with an Ethernet port on your computer connected to the PoE adapter, and the adapter connected to the Groove. When power is applied, you should hear the Groove beep very soon after applying it, and then 10-30 seconds later, another beep sequence to indicate it has booted. If the Groove is working and running well, your PC should be assigned a DHCP network address in the 192.168.88.xx range. Use your operating system control panel to check that you are getting address. Additionally, you can test connectivity by opening a Terminal in Mac, or a Command Prompt in Windows and pinging the Groove’s default IP address: ``` ping 192.168.88.1 PING 192.168.88.1 (192.168.88.1): 56 data bytes 64 bytes from 192.168.88.1: icmp_seq=0 ttl=62 time=33.826 ms 64 bytes from 192.168.88.1: icmp_seq=1 ttl=62 time=30.486 ms 64 bytes from 192.168.88.1: icmp_seq=2 ttl=62 time=42.349 ms 64 bytes from 192.168.88.1: icmp_seq=3 ttl=62 time=45.525 ms --- 192.168.88.1 ping statistics --- 4 packets transmitted, 4 packets received, 0.0% packet loss round-trip min/avg/max/stddev = 30.486/38.047/45.525/6.112 ms ``` If you get responses, then it’s up and running and ready to be configured. If not, you may need to Factory Reset the device. See below on how to do that. If it is up and running, connect with a browser to [http://192.168.88.1/](http://192.168.88.1/?ref=seabits.com) and you should see the initial Quick Set page. ## Basics of the MikroTik Interface ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-quick-set-scree-1024x758.png) If the device is running v6.40.x or newer, you will be taken to a simplified Quick Set page. Older firmware will take you to the Quick Set page, but with a big menu on the left hand side. On the left hand area of the page, you will find MAC addresses, some basic settings for WiFi, and a list of nearby networks (once we configure things). The right hand side has the pieces we need to configure first, including the Quick Set choice, router/bridge mode, and addressing. ## Lights ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-leds-ethernet-1024x768.jpg) Groove LED showing Ethernet connection active, but no WiFi network connected There are 6 LEDs on the side of the Groove. The first one will blink in various forms on boot up, and if you are doing a factory reset. Once the Groove has fully booted, that first (lowest) light should be on to indicate your Ethernet connection is up and working. It should blink to indicate network traffic. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-leds-full.jpg) The next LED up shows when you are connected to a WiFi access point, and the final 4 LEDs show the signal level of that remote WiFi network. ## Factory Reset If you get to a point where you can’t get back into the Groove, you may need to perform a factory reset. I have done this many times while experimenting with features or configuration, and have lost network connectivity to the device. 1. Power off the Groove 2. Using a small pointed object, press and hold the reset button on the bottom of the device near the Ethernet port 3. While still holding the button, plug the power back in 4. Wait until the bottom LED blinks, then release the reset button Your Groove is now back to factory defaults and you can start over! # Initial Configuration ## Step 1 – Router Mode ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-cpe-router.png) Many new Grooves are already setup in Router mode. You can tell yours is already setup this way if the Quick Set is set to “CPE”, and the Mode is “Router”. If not, using the pull down near “Quick Set” choose CPE. It may want to reboot – **make sure you do that before changing anything else**. If your Mode is not set to Router, choose that and press Apply Configuration at the bottom of the screen. It also may want you to reboot here, which I recommend. Once you have the device in CPE + Router mode, you’ve done the most risky part of getting things setup. I have seen many situations where changing to other settings under Quick Set have rendered the Groove unreachable, and have had to reset it to factory defaults. Some people have asked about Bridge vs Router mode, and why you would want another NAT in the process. NATs are not that “expensive” network-wise, and I find it easier to determine where traffic is coming/going to with clearly defined network addresses. Bridges are known to forward anything they receive, and in a WiFi situation, I don’t want crappy broadcasted traffic forwarded through the MikroTik down to my router. ## Step 2 – Optional Settings ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-optional-settings.png) At this point, you can proceed to connecting to your first WiFi network – the basics are setup, and the rest of the defaults should work with a standard router connected to the Groove. If you want to, you can also change the Groove’s name, IP addressing, and the like. I generally do not recommend changing the network settings as the defaults work well, and unless they conflict with other devices on your network, add more risk in changing. Plus, because you can get into situations where you have to Factory Reset, using the default IP address that MikroTik assigns saves you from having to change your networking just to reconfigure things. I do recommend giving your router a name under Router Identity, and setting a password for the admin interface so that others can’t change the configuration. Everything else I recommend leaving at the defaults unless you know what you’re doing. # Connecting to a new WiFi network When you have arrived at a new marina and are ready to connect to a new WiFi network, there are a couple of choices to get you going: ## The Quick Way In newer firmware versions, it is very simple to connect to a new WiFi network. If you don’t have the new firmware, you might have to do the Manual Way, and then do a Software Upgrade. To get started, login and make sure you’re on the Quick Set screen. Once there, you should see a Wireless section on the left hand of the screen. By default the MikroTik should start showing you available WiFi networks, but it may be blank if the band is set wrong. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-wireless-5ghz-networks.png) The Groove shows the available networks based on the **Band**, **Channel Width**, and **Country** that is selected. Here’s the best steps I’ve found: 1. Country – choose the appropriate country 2. Channel Width – set this to 20MHz which is the least restrictive/lowest common denominator 3. Band – depending on whether you’re going for 5Ghz or 2.4Ghz, use the most inclusive list for each: 5Ghz-A/N/AC or 2Ghz-B/G/N ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-wireless-5ghz-join.png) Once you find the network you want to join, click on it in the list, provide the password (if there is one), and click the Connect button. If everything is set correctly, you should connect very shortly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-wireless-5ghz-joined-1024x714.png) You’ll know if you’ve joined successfully when the Status text says “connected to ess”. You should also have an IP address in the right hand side under Wireless Network. If you do not have both of these, then there is something else wrong and you may need to look at a manual configuration, or the WiFi network you’re trying to join is too weak or overloaded (which is common). ### Using a particular access point While you are now connected and should have Internet access, some versions of RouterOS record the exact access point MAC address, band and channel width and locks the connection to those properties. If you are at a location where there are multiple access points (APs) providing the same WiFi signal, you may wish to override that so that the Groove searches for and uses the most powerful access point if something changes. Often, when boats move up and down with the tides, and as environmental conditions change (another boat leaving, etc.) the AP you chose originally may not be the best one for you now. In other situations, “pinning” your Groove to a particular AP may be desirable as you know it is the highest transmitting on 5Ghz, and you don’t want the Groove hunting around for another. You may need to experiment to get the best results, and I have seen the above be completely wrong with some of the newer firmware versions – they configure it generically and connect to any AP with that WiFi name. To override what has been set above, simply follow Step 4 below in The Manual Way to remove the AP MAC address and change the band and channel width to more inclusive values. ## The Manual Way If you have an older version of firmware, you may not be able to use the steps above. Also, if you prefer to tweak the radio or security settings, you might use these steps as well. ### Step 1 – Security If the WiFi network you’re connecting to requires a password (or security key), as most of them do, then you’ll need to create a security profile. To do this: 1. Click on Wireless in the navigation pane. 2. Click on the Security Profiles tab. 3. Click Add New. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/mikrotik-groove-wifi-security-profile.png) Most modern WiFi systems use WPA2 security, and in particular WPA2 PSK. Make sure that is selected only. Leave the default Unicast and Group Ciphers set to AES – those are most commonly used as well. Under WPA2 Pre-Shared Key, enter the password or passphrase for the WiFi network you’re trying to connect to. Leave everything else at the defaults. Click Apply, and you have a Security Profile you can associate with the WiFi adapter for the network in question. ### Step 2 – Scan I always use the built in scanner regardless of what the marina has told me. I start by scanning with the radio set to 5Ghz, and then try 2.4Ghz if things don’t work out. 1. Click on Wireless in the left navigation pane 2. Click on the WiFi adapter, “wlan1” 3. Change the band to 5Ghz – I set it to the most compatible of 5Ghz-A/N/AC 4. Change Channel Width to 20Mhz 5. Change the security profile to the one you setup in step 1 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/08/mikrotik-groove-wifi-settings.png) Now we need to scan for available networks 1. Click on Scan to start the scan on 5Ghz 2. If nothing shows up matching what the marina provided, they may only have 2.4Ghz. If so, go back to step 2 and choose 2Ghz frequencies. ### Step 3 – Connect Once I find a signal I like, I click Connect and let it auto-fill the WiFi adapter settings. You can tweak them afterwards. ### Step 4 – Adjust Once things are pre-populated from the above step, I go in and adjust a couple of things. 1. Remove specific MAC address of AP chosen 2. Adjust band to entire spectrum 3. Adjust frequency to auto Keep in mind that I do this because I know my boat will float a bit, and move around with the tides, and the one station we identified in our scan might not be the best a few hours later. If you have issues after changing these, your Groove might be hunting around and changing the remote AP too many times, and you can go back and re-run a scan to “pin” it to a particular access point. You can also force the system to use a particular access point – see above under “Using a particular access point” # Software Upgrade Once you are connected to a WiFi network, you need to upgrade the software to the newest release. I highly recommend doing this before relying on the Groove. Many bugs have been fixed in the more recent versions, as well as some major vulnerabilities that you don’t want hanging around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-software-upgrade.png) To upgrade: 1. Login to your Groove 2. Click on WebFig to get into advanced configuration 3. Expand System in the left hand menu, and choose Packages 4. Click “Check For Updates” (requires active connection to the Internet) 5. You’ll see a screen similar to the above if there is a new release available 6. Click “Download&Install” and wait a couple of minutes while things are downloaded and installed 7. The Groove will reboot and should come up with the new version. I also recommend checking for new updates every week to ensure you’re on the latest and most secure and stable release. # Security ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/mikrotik-groove-default-firewall-rules-1024x597.png) By default the Groove has a firewall in place with some good rules to prevent anyone on the WiFi networks you connect to from accessing anything on it or elsewhere behind it. Unless you have needs to open ports for shared services or the like, I wouldn’t change much here. In addition, if you are using an on-board router that the Groove is connected to, it also should have a firewall protecting your internal network as well. I also highly recommend that you read [Securing your Router](https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Manual:Securing%5FYour%5FRouter?ref=seabits.com) for more information on additional steps you can take, and set an admin password and switch to SSL! # Conclusion This is a very basic set of steps to get a MikroTik Groove up and running as a wireless “booster” for a marine application. You could also use this on an RV or in any other situation where you need to snag a remote WiFi signal and then amplify it within your house/boat/RV/yurt, etc. However, by no means is this all-inclusive. There are **tons** of other features in the MikroTik RouterOS software, and you can end up with some pretty amazing and complex configurations. This guide is meant to help you get connected quickly. Hopefully it has, and you’re using it in your network to read this right now! You can help support my site by buying a Groove through one of the Amazon affiliate links below. Make sure you check out my other articles around similar topics: - [Modular, cheaper boat internet solution via Netgear and MikroTik](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/) - [Marina WiFi is hard](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) - [Redundant internet setup](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/) --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. J Schwartz [January 16, 2018 at 8:12 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-497) Steve, I have a similar setup on my boat for internet access, but am having trouble with the Groove. It will connect in CPE mode to some wireless networks, but it fails to connect to others. It appears to be a configuration issue on my part but I’m at a loss to identify it. Would be interested in your configuration article—I’m essentially using the CPE quickset mode. David Geller [May 29, 2018 at 2:09 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-447) Great article. Super useful. Would you be interested in collaborating on an easier-to-configure interface for the Mikrotik Groove? There’s a node.js module for controlling it. You seem adept at many Mikrotik things and I can easily build the progressive web app part. I suspect most people want to be able to simply pick an AP from a list and just start using it. Also – I built a combined AP + Groove unit that can run off 12v. Could I bring one over for you to try out? It was designed to be portable and easily stowed during cruising without the need for any external antenna mounting. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 29, 2018 at 9:37 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-505) Hi David, Thanks for the kind words. Always interested in new ideas and testing! Aquabelle [May 29, 2018 at 10:47 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-445) Steve: given how many of your growing band of followers are outside the US, it is worth noting that the MikroTik Groove AC is available in two models. The ‘locked’ version is intended for use within the US only. For all other countries, the ‘unlocked’ version should be ordered. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 29, 2018 at 9:39 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-503) Aquabelle: thanks for that note, that is a great change to make. I will do that now. [Joe Chin](http://www.joechin.com/?ref=seabits.com) [September 3, 2018 at 11:27 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-388) We used the Groove extensively while cruising. Our son’s correspondence school was mostly online and the Groove worked in a pinch. Getting internet onboard was never easy. You either paid for a 4G hotspot plan at their rates (Italy 20GB was 10€, 2GB was $20 for BTC) or work with wifi. Wifi wasn’t always reliable but it was free. Franz Kerekes [September 9, 2018 at 2:25 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-359) I lose connectivity with the groove as soon as I select CPE from the quickset menu. Have to factory reset to get it back, but I am stuck. Thoughts? Erin [October 6, 2018 at 3:15 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-400) This article was a huge help. Our Groove 52 ac came set at 5Ghz and we couldn’t get connected to any ap’s (I could see them in the list but couldn’t get connected) . I changed to 2Ghz and was able to connect. My question is, what’s the difference between the two? How will I know if I need to change? We’re in a marina now and headed to the Bahamas… should I typically leave it set at 2Ghz? Thanks! Labatt s/v/ Pelican [July 12, 2019 at 4:58 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-263) Any thoughts on cutting the power wire for the power adapter that comes with the Groove PoE and hardwiring it directly into the boat DC @ 12v? The Groove says it can be powered via 10v-30v and the power adapter says it’s converting AC to 24v DC.. but before I cut it I wanted to see if anyone else had since I can’t get a replacement easily where I am. [Carl G](http://lightshowers.com/?ref=seabits.com) [February 25, 2020 at 3:57 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-159) Fantastic write up and excellent follow up here. Thanks for this and I will add my recent learning as well as ask a question. My US-Locked device, purchased here in Feb 2020, was impossible to connect with via wifi the broadcast SSID or via computer with direct Ethernet connection. I didn’t have Windows PC available to run Winbox but found that after Reset, the Groove looks for a DHCP server on the Ethernet port. This required simply plugging into an available router to get an assignment and then a quick scan of the address space and I was in to work out the configuration. Once configured, the Ethernet cable was installed on the WAN port of My PepWave router and I was in business. Every Reset since (there have been many as I’ve explored the Webfig settings only to hang the Groove) has required the same process. I had no luck finding the Groove default to 192.168.88.x , 51.x, etc. – It seems to me that you either use Quick Set or Webfig – not both. Several settings tweaked in Webfig seem to create a conflict with QuickSet and results in hanging the Groove. I have the Groove working well as a CPE in Router mode, feeding the WAN port on my PepWave router. Consequently I have a double NAT situation and a noticeable degrade in throughput. As others have noted, the double NAT situation often causes trouble with captive or referred portals. e.g. BBX will often fail to resolve a login page through a double NAT setup. Ideally, I’d like to run the GROOVE CPE in BRIDGE mode to eliminate these issues allowing my PepWave to directly manage the WAN IP acquisition (I don’t care about traffic pinging the router). I am able to survey and secure a remote AP, flip the Groove to BRIDGE, then open the Router Page and set the WAN IP to DHCP – bingo all works good, no more double NAT, throughput is perky, etc. The challenge is getting back into the Groove to do a new survey without having to put it through a full RESET, switching cables, etc. Once in BRIDGE Mode, Winbox doesn’t find the Groove despite my setting the PepWave Routers WAN IP and Bridge IP to static addresses. When using my previous (3) short lived Ubiquity Bullets, I was able to create an IP alias in the Bullet that allowed me to access it by simply switching the WAN IP of the router to a static address. An extra step but much much easier than the alternatives. I am wondering if there is a way to do the same in the Groove – define an IP alias (address) which can be accessed outside the WAN domain allowing a path back to the Groove configuration screen for new wireless surveys and connections. [Carl G](http://lightshowers.com/?ref=seabits.com) [May 19, 2020 at 10:49 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-133) Steve – in your article you mention the notion of “pinning” the Groove CPE connection to a particular AP and a technique to open the same up to all reachable APs sharing the same SSID. My experience with this has been mixed – I have used QuickSet UI to select a targeted AP and had the MAC stick when same name SSIDs are present. But I have also seen cases where I select a specific AP-MAC and the connection undesirably hops to a different MAC with the same SSID. I dug into the Webfig but for the life of me I am not able to find where one would pin or open the MAC for the target AP. I don’t see such a field listed in Webfig nor do I see it shown in any of the screen shots in your article. The only editable MAC field I can find is in the General Section which seems to pertain to the MAC of the MikroTiK acting as the CPE. Will you provide a few more specifics to Step 4 in this article? I would really like to solve this. [Carl G](http://lightshowers.com/?ref=seabits.com) [May 19, 2020 at 10:49 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-669) Steve – in your article you mention the notion of “pinning” the Groove CPE connection to a particular AP and a technique to open the same up to all reachable APs sharing the same SSID. My experience with this has been mixed – I have used QuickSet UI to select a targeted AP and had the MAC stick when same name SSIDs are present. But I have also seen cases where I select a specific AP-MAC and the connection undesirably hops to a different MAC with the same SSID. I dug into the Webfig but for the life of me I am not able to find where one would pin or open the MAC for the target AP. I don’t see such a field listed in Webfig nor do I see it shown in any of the screen shots in your article. The only editable MAC field I can find is in the General Section which seems to pertain to the MAC of the MikroTiK acting as the CPE. Will you provide a few more specifics to Step 4 in this article? I would really like to solve this. Jim Holm [May 21, 2020 at 5:08 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-132) Is there a better antenna component to the Groove that might boost signal for my sailboat. Is the one that comes with it adequate in the marine setting. Thanks. Jim [joe delorenzo](http://www.joedhomes.com/?ref=seabits.com) [June 25, 2020 at 3:14 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-111) Hello Steve thanks for the great info I purchased the groove from your link last year I finally got around to trying to set up. I cannot get any lights to light when i plug the ethernet cable and the power supply the green led on the adapter goes out, if i unplug the ethernet cable the light comes on. I tried the reset procedure as you mentioned and I cannot get any LEDS to blink or turn on Is this unit dead on arrival Hopefully I am doing something wrong I hope to hear from you thanks Chris H [July 2, 2020 at 1:56 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-104) Thanks for writing this great post. Based on your advice, I bought a Groove for my boat. I have it up and running per your instructions here. My home marina has a ton of APs of different names that all share the same password. Periodically, the AP I am connected with will slow down and I have to switch to a different AP. Less frequently, an AP will go offline. The question I have is whether the Groove can be setup to switch between a small group of APs if for example the Signal to Noise or some other metric drops below a specific value or the connected AP drops offline? Is there a way to set that up on the Groove? Basically find the strongest signal from the list of configured APs and connect to that one? I am not well versed in the networking acronyms and networking is definitely not my super power. Any guidance is appreciated! [Eric Munsing](http://www.summitfordays.com/?ref=seabits.com) [July 27, 2020 at 3:53 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-90) A few notes for getting things set up with a recent Groove A model and a Mac: – The default settings did not allow me to connect via wifi or through wifi via a router; the Groove A would always put me on a different subnet than its internal – Accordingly, using Winbox or Winbox4Mac and connecting directly to the Groove via an Ethernet cord and MAC address search was \*NECESSARY\*. I found Winbox4Mac to be stable and invaluable. – After connecting with Winbox4Mac I was given the option of removing the factory Access Point setting. \*\*Remove the Access Point Settings\*\*. Without resetting these you will not be able to switch to CPE mode. – After these settings have been removed you should also be able to connect to the Groove Webfig at 192.168.88.1 in your browser. – The new, reset settings will not have the necessary configurations to fully function as a CPE (particularly DHCP client, DHCP server, Firewall filtering, NAT masquerading). I used the config file from a Mikrotik SXT2 to set the Groove up appropriately. The firewall settings were the trickiest for me to debug, as there are many sub-panels of config options. This process will need to be repeated after each factory reset, but will “stick” after a normal reboot or power-off. Hardware: – Macbook Pro running Mac OS 10.15 Catalina – Ethernet-to-Thunderbolt adapter – Groove A 52 ac (GA-52HPacn) - Barbara Flanigan [May 23, 2021 at 9:46 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3543) Can you elaborate on how to do this? I tried out the older model b/g/n last week and liked it, so I wanted to upgrade to the AC model but when I just unpacked mine (GrooveGA-52HPacn – with the “A”) I ran into something similar to you. It came with a WISP profile and script set up and I have no idea how to get it configured for CPE. The QuickSet menu looks nothing like this guide or the old 52HPn that I played with. I am not sure if the author here is indeed using a GrooveGA-52HPacn (with the A) or if he is using the RBGrooveG-52HPacn (without the “A”). It’s really unclear what one is buying online because no matter what these vendors put in the description, it seems they all show photos with the case labeled GrooveGA-52HPacn and while there may or may not be different models of them and they may be configured differently, at least the photos online all say GrooveGA-52HPacn. Thanks for your help … - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 17, 2021 at 12:08 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3604) It would be interesting to know where you purchased your units from. I’ve heard of folks getting odd versions of units from non-standard sellers on Amazon. I’m wondering if they’re selling non-US versions, or some other derivative. Matt [July 27, 2020 at 4:27 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-89) Hey Steve, I came across your article while researching for a similar setup, except onshore with a caravan. Your article is really helpful and similar to what I want to do, but one thing I haven’t been able to find a lot of information on is lightning and the risk it poses to the Groove being exposed outside. Is this something you have run into any issues with? This is the one part of the setup that I just can’t figure out – I don’t want to risk damaging other devices on the network. Scott [August 16, 2020 at 9:51 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-72) Hi Steve, Great article! We have gone through a few extenders on our boat. First we used a Ubiquiti Bullet M2HP that worked for 2 years until the antenna connector snapped off. It’s not sold anymore so I tried to replace it with an Alfa Tube 2HP mounted at the masthead. This seemed to work until I realized that the Alfa was “non-isolated” which caused serious problems with our boat’s isolated ground system. Do you know if the MikroTik Groove (or Metal) is isolated or non-isolated? Specifically, is the metal antenna connector isolated or is it connected to either the positive or negative power lead? We mount it using a stainless bracket that is screwed to the mast and goes between the antenna and AP/CPE body, so it’s imperative that the AP/CPE is isolated. Thanks! Joel Bean [November 5, 2020 at 2:31 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-37) Hi Steve, You mentioned your configuration where you connect the Metal to the WAN port of your router. But you don’t tell us how to finish the configuration. Once you setup the Metal (or Groove) using Winbox on a laptop, what do you do next? Do you just plug it into the router and it works? If so, how do you then log into a hotspot that the Metal/Groove has found? Do you connect to it directly and select SSID and enter password, at which point the traffic will pass to the router? Or, can you connect to the Metal/Groove’s wifi signal through the router interface somehow. Please finish your description about how to setup and use the Metal/Groove as a WAN device for the Peplink router. And what about the Metal/Groove connecting to a wifi hotspot that redirects to a login page, like hotels, marinas, rv parks, etc.? How do you handle these? Thank you. Warren John Hammond [January 31, 2021 at 4:00 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-803) Hi Steve, Would you know how to install a level 4 license for the groove g-52hpacn. purchase my groove g-52 from a person on ebay last year and talked with mikrotik and they gave me a level 4 software license key to install as it did not come with a license and they only gave me a bit of help and a free license so I can use it as a repeater for wifi but that’s all. I have tried several times to install the license but was never successful in installing the software key or how to get to the right area to install it. Do you have any information on doing this part of an install. Warren - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 31, 2021 at 10:42 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-812) Hi Warren, I don’t know how to do this off the top of my head – I used to use a lot more MikroTik large router products and had to activate licenses, and I seem to remember it being pretty easy but that could have changed. The Groove by default should come with a Level 3 license – are you sure it’s completely unlicensed? - Warren John Hammond [February 1, 2021 at 8:55 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-823) I was told by the seller that I had to buy a license but I contacted mikrotik and they provided me with a level 4 license for free but was not to helpful in how to install or I just did not understand. I did have a bullet m2 which I found from what I can remember to be a lot easier to install and use. I did try to use the winbox and found it confusing and getting to technical. I am going to fallow your install and see if this will work for me. Like I said I have had this unit for almost a year and tried several time to get it working but no luck and lots of frustration. Thanks again for getting back to me. Warren - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [February 1, 2021 at 11:43 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-834) I found this article on MikroTik’s site about licensing, and I think it covers how to deal with activating new ones: [https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Manual:License](https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Manual:License?ref=seabits.com) Hopefully that will help. Good luck! Barbara Flanigan [May 5, 2021 at 7:34 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3515) So what is this license business? I have now two days invested in discovering this device, finally finding how to use the software as a client appliance (thanks to you, by the way) and now there is some license that is needed to be purchased and even if it is free it sounds like a potential hassle. What gives in this area of licensing and I wonder why after reading about this device for 2 days now that I didn’t see anything about a license being required up until the end here? We’ve witnessed every piece of major software turning from own to rent and I never dreamed our hardware would fall into the same trap since we already are renting it from a planned obsolescence perspective. I won’t plan to partake in any “rolling” paid licensing scheme and will stick to the Alfa tube 2H and forego 5G if necessary (I bet the company stock is soaring downward as a result of this statement LOL). But this aside, is this the device the only choice in the waterproof, small-profile wireless-client category that “does” 5Ghz? Thanks for all your invested time here, it’s a great find! Barbara Flanigan [May 5, 2021 at 7:56 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3516) Can anyone comment on the POE aspect of these devices? The potential problem with POE seems the acronym is never an exact definition of how any device is wired since there are several ways of implementing POE. There is the POE which the Tube2H and some Ubiuquiti devices use which accept the simple POE injectors which use 4 of the wires for straight DC that are not in use by the ethernet signal and the other 4 wires handle the standard 10bT ethernet wiring. Then there are more modern versions of POE that send the DC component down all the wires and the ethernet component “rides on top” of the DC in the wires and in this case full duplex 100bT or all 8 wires of the cable also have ethernet signal. The latter requires more complex injectors because the ethernet signal rides on top of the DC wiring and the full set of 8 wires have the potential for transmitting signal. Also with the Alphas, I know you can just inject the house battery wiring of 12V with no transformers, wall-pucks or anything else required, but if these devices are the more advanced POE which typically have the 48V requirement and a wall puck with 120Vac plug on the end, how are people using their ambient 12v house wiring to power them without running an inverter? Thanks. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 5, 2021 at 9:55 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3518) Hi Barbara, MikroTik and other vendors publish the specification of PoE that their devices support. These use an older version of PoE which actually is better for a boat, as it has a much wider voltage acceptance range. I have wired many of these directly into house battery banks using the provided splitter, and taking the DC barrel connector/wiring, adding an in-line fuse, and connecting that to a DC power block/source on board. DC house battery voltage usually varies from 11v-14v, or higher for 24v systems, and works fine with the MikroTik. Barbara Flanigan [May 5, 2021 at 10:05 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3519) Thank you and thanks for your guide! Somehow the previous comment vanished instead of logged when I clicked to post. I wanted to ask about licensing fees. I see these for sale and I never saw anything about a licensing fee, but I don’t really want to pay any licensing fees, especially ongoing fees. I only want the device to pick up remote wifi as you have described here and I only am considering this device since it from my research is the only small profile outdoor multi-purpose device that serves as a wifi client and provides 5ghz pickup. Do you know of any other similar device with 5Ghz support, especially if a licensing fee is required? Also another question I have is when you set it up as per the directions you have so graciously provided, is the 192.168.88.1 your gateway and DNC server that the PC or in-house WAN port is connecting to or does the DNS server of the distant wifi serve as the DNS server? Thank you. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 9, 2021 at 9:40 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3525) MikroTik products have different license levels, perhaps that is what you’re referring to? They have various different products that have different licenses depending on the features and functionality you’re using. I’ve never had to pay for an upgrade license or a yearly license to continue using any MikroTik product. I’ve only ever had to upgrade licenses when I’ve bought one that had a lower license, and wanted to enable features, but that was for a different product line entirely than the Groove. If you have the MikroTik setup with the defaults, the 192.168.88.1 address is the DNS server, router, etc. Barbara Flanigan [May 5, 2021 at 10:27 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3520) Hate to keep bothering you but I notice there is a model Groove-52HPn with similar specs for $30 less. Do you know what the repercussions of the lesser expensive unit would be? Thanks again. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 9, 2021 at 9:41 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3526) No idea. I would need to have a link or more details on what the cheaper one is. Beware off vendors selling things on Amazon and other places, though. I’ve seen MikroTik products for sale for cheaper and folks have said they are open box or used devices. Barbara Flanigan [May 10, 2021 at 8:10 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3529) The link for the cheaper one is here. After careful examination, the “c” architecture is missing from the a/b/g/n options on this cheaper model. [https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RouterBOARD-Groove-52HPn-Atheros-802-11a/dp/B00HX3KNH2](https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RouterBOARD-Groove-52HPn-Atheros-802-11a/dp/B00HX3KNH2?ref=seabits.com) Not sure when “c” will become the mainstream or if. Thanks! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 12, 2021 at 11:34 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3532) That is a lower performing version of the unit with less band / WiFi coverage. I’ve only used the fuller featured one. Gary [May 22, 2021 at 4:06 pm](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3541) Thanks for you guide! This works well as long as the Marina’s network is not on the network range (192.168.88.x). I really had a hard time figuring out why my MikroTik seemed to freeze. I had to create a new Pool (10.0.0.1/24) for eth1 and delete the default one. I guess the Marina was also using a MikroTik! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [July 15, 2021 at 10:59 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3592) Hah! That’s a good point. It should still work since it is a routed configuration, but I could see some things that would get confused. Good catch! Barbara Flanigan [May 24, 2021 at 8:07 am](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/#comment-3544) Hi, one more question – I first ordered some used older models of the 52Hpn and with those I received the QuickSet CPE as the default when I made the latest firmware upgrade. I decided to order a new GroveGA-52HPacn like you have linked to and I received one which came with the QuickSet set to Ethernet (cannot be changed to CPE) and it had a WISP script showing when I tried to use the configuration reset panel. Are there more than one version of these and do I need to send back the WISP model for a CPE model or is there such a thing? Thank you. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 4 comments DOUBLESTAR@DOUBLESTAR January 13, 2022 Hi Steve, I’ve not commented here in a while. The new comments system seems slick. I have an update on the T-Mobile 100Gb for $50 plan, and a question on the MiktroTik: I recently returned to the US with the boat, and after consulting [seabits.com](https://seabits.com/) I called and ordered the T-Mobile 100Gb for $50 plan. I used the T-Mobile website compatibility checker to make sure the EMEI of my older generation Peplink Max Transit was compatible. It said it was. On receiving the card I could not get it working. 3 hours on the phone with T-Mobile got me to their 2nd tier tech support, and the guy told me the plan was limited to T-Mobile’s 5G hotspot device, and a few select T-Mobile locked handhelds and iPads. No Peplink. So I downgraded to the 4G LTE version which is 50Gb for $50\. Asking why, he said they are trying to promote their 5G devices, and that plan is specific to 5G and the supported T-Mobile devices. Hope that helps some of your other readers. A question I have: I recently replaced my MikroTik Groove as the old one (which worked well) started playing up. Got the new one installed and up and running with the help of your article. Thanks for that. I also used your website link to make the purchase, hoping it will earn you a few cents. I noted however that on setting it up, I only had USA as a country option. I then read that there is a US (locked) and international (unlocked version). Rechecking the listing, it’s not clear whether the one I purchased is locked or unlocked. Comments on that listing on Amazon are also conflicting. Do you know what the deal is? Thanks! Jake Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 January 14, 2022 DOUBLESTAR: > On receiving the card I could not get it working. 3 hours on the phone with T-Mobile got me to their 2nd tier tech support, and the guy told me the plan was limited to T-Mobile’s 5G hotspot device, and a few select T-Mobile locked handhelds and iPads. No Peplink. That’s very interesting. I’ve not heard of this happening before. Any of the hotspot plans that are meant for those sorts of devices, at least new ones in the last year plus, have worked on just about any device as long as it is not brand new, and even then, the new devices get added pretty quickly. Some of the tablet or hotspot plans issued on existing accounts or tied to Magenta or older plans won’t work on Peplink stuff. You have to have the newer hotspot plans, and in many cases, pre-paid is safer. DOUBLESTAR: > I noted however that on setting it up, I only had USA as a country option. I then read that there is a US (locked) and international (unlocked version). Rechecking the listing, it’s not clear whether the one I purchased is locked or unlocked. Comments on that listing on Amazon are also conflicting. Do you know what the deal is? This has been an issue for a long while with MikroTik products. There are locked/unlocked versions of many of them, including the Groove. Many people wanted the unlocked versions because there were more options for power and control, but many US resellers were having issues getting them, or simply wouldn’t sell them to folks in the US. What the country designation does is unlock/lock certain bands for WiFi, so it can be useful if traveling abroad. Generally speaking, buying MikroTik from Amazon is going to be a crap shoot. I’ve done it many times and have actually gotten wrong versions and DoA products. Buying from MikroTik resellers like Streakwave or Baltic Networks usually is a better idea if you’re looking for a very specific model. rlynch03@rlynch03 August 08, 2024 Is it possible to connect the Groove Antenna directly to my Peplink Balance 20X and avoid adding another router (Mikrotik) into the systems? I tried to connect it today but I am not sure how to configure the Balance 20X to properly control the Groove Antenna. This is on a boat and we use Starling and an AT&T Card as well. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #5 August 10, 2024 The MikroTik Groove could be connected to any downstream router including a Peplink Balance 20x. You’d need to use the WAN port on the Peplink. Depending on how you’ve set up the MikroTik, it should either just work, or you may have to set some IP address settings on the Peplink. ### Correcting the list - LiFePO4 power system design URL: https://seabits.com/correcting-the-list-lifepo4-power-system-design/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T19:56:55.000Z In the 3 years I have owned [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), I have completed a lot of [projects](https://seabits.com/category/projects/), one of the biggest being [updating her power infrastructure](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/). In the last 2 years, a problem has surfaced that I needed to correct before the next season – a deep list to starboard. In addition, my original design had some things I wanted to improve upon. # The List Every boat at some point lists one way or another depending on people, equipment and design. The 2000-era Benetau line is no exception, and in fact I found out from the various owners groups online that my model is prone to a significant starboard list even with the boat totally empty. This seems like an unfortunate choice in Beneteau’s design, as the starboard lazarette in the cockpit is the only major storage area outside, and the single biggest storage area on the boat. You could easily fit four people in the space (not that we store people) and we routinely dump anything and everything in here. For normal trips, we will have one or two 5 gallon diesel cans (full), two batteries for the Torqeedo outboard, spare steering gear, tools, safety gear, a bucket full of outdoor junk, folding chairs, and much more. So after cramming this full of stuff, the list increases even more. On a relatively flat bottom stern boat, this creates some problems if it gets too high. I am also ultra-sensitive to any list because of my inner ear. Surprisingly, I get seasick very easily, and often have to wear a special electrical watch to counteract the effects. I have the same problem (more intense/worse) on airplanes, and have to do the same thing. Any sort of list heightens this when I am down below, even at the dock – I can tell instantly when I go below that something isn’t right. My body tries to compensate when I move around the cabin, and I’m constantly fighting it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/EmptyName-1-1024x683.jpg) During the [power upgrade](https://seabits.com/power-system-design/) from a couple of years ago, I replaced one battery in the lazarette with two slightly larger ones – 110 amp hour Firefly batteries. A third was in the engine room in the bay originally set aside for a starting battery. My boat didn’t really have room for batteries of any significant capacity anywhere else, and after some tests, it seemed like the list was manageable. Grace also had higher power requirements than when we bought her. I wanted an inverter to deal with smaller loads on the AC side while away from the dock, and we had a lot of computing and network stuff that I had started adding. This necessitated a larger house bank. At the time, combining house and start, which I had done on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), was an OK trade off for me if I got more overall amperage hours. Many people in forums and elsewhere disagreed with the amount of amp hours I needed on Grace, saying things like “inverters are only worthwhile on a sailboat as an anchor” or “you live with the amperage hours you’re given” or even things like “that’s why I only sail her overnight off dock power for 1 night at a time”. These are great opinions for your boat, and I am happy to let you have your own opinion. However, that is not the only solution. Inverters come standard on even smaller sailboats nowadays. Many of them are super light, and double as a high amperage battery charger. And if you let your boat dictate not only where you can sail, but your comfort and joy while you are doing that, that is your choice. I would rather be able to sail longer, enjoy myself more, and that is why I am willing to work harder and design something different, and potentially give something up. Everything worked well on Grace, but the list was starting to bother me. In several trips last year, it was so pronounced at times that I was worried about stability in bad conditions. Crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca with 4-6′ rolling waves, and in other situations, the boat didn’t feel as stable as I would like. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Grace-arriving-4-1024x768.jpg) Grace arriving in Friday Harbor with a pronounced list, photo by Steve Roberts. My home marina even called me and asked if I had a problem on board one day, or if it was a permanent list – they note these things in case they see a boat change. For them to notice was significant. After seeing some pictures of her as we were motoring in flat calm, I knew I had to do something – the list was really too much. # The Improvements My original power system design eliminated a dedicated starting battery, which I had done on my previous boat Jammy as well. While this had worked well for the last few years, I was always worried about drawing the house battery bank (the only bank) down too low, and having to use my [Noco jump starter](https://seabits.com/portable-lithium-jump-starter-sailboat/) to get things going. I wanted to see if I could add a small start battery back to the design to prevent this from being an issue. Also, having a start battery solves a ton of issues with charging a LiFePO4 bank via an alternator, so it almost could be a design requirement. I have been wanting to add solar panels to my bimini to help with power usage while away from the dock. I had read a [post from Patrick on S/V Violet Hour about their setup](https://svviolethour.com/2017/06/28/harnessing-the-sun-solar-power-on-a-sailboat/?ref=seabits.com), and it had inspired me to consider doing something very similar on Grace. I wasn’t excited by any of the solar controller options MasterVolt had available, especially since they had only a few options that were MPPT and none that could be networked. Being that Grace used mostly MasterVolt, that brought other vendors or a different design to mind. MasterVolt had also really not impressed me with their networking and monitoring solutions. They came out with a new version of the EasyView panel recently, which I had been testing, but it was still very rudimentary. Their ability to place this information on a NMEA 2000 network was also frustratingly complex. There was no remote access for this information other than piping it through SignalK or another tool. I wanted to see if other vendors had better solutions for this. # Investigation So after a lot of thinking, design, and planning throughout the late fall and winter months, I decided to take the plunge into a lighter weight power system with some improvements. All indications pointed towards LiFePO4 batteries as being the only option that could get me the weight reduction, but at both a cost in terms of money and system complexity. One thing I did not want to deal with is a home-build of LiFePO4 batteries. It seems you can save considerable amounts of money by doing it this way, but the extra work required to maintain and manage the individual cells, plus the potential for problems, seems like something I didn’t want to take on in addition to the complexity that I knew would be present anyhow. After reviewing around 10 different vendors, their capabilities and limitations, cost, and implementation details, I found that there really is only one vendor out there that met my requirements – [Victron](https://www.victronenergy.com/?ref=seabits.com). One of the things to consider with a LiFePO4 setup is the amount of safeties and controls you need to put in place to protect the batteries and other systems. This plus the data I wanted on the system itself in terms of its health meant that I did not want to mix vendors for various parts. This type of battery and system is still very new to the marine world, and combining different vendors and types of equipment would definitely lead to finger pointing when there were problems, and problems no one has seen yet. As an example, I really liked [Lithionics Batteries](http://lithionicsbattery.com/?ref=seabits.com) and their [Never Die BMS](http://lithionicsbattery.com/neverdie/?ref=seabits.com), but if I used them with my existing MasterVolt inverter/charger, I would have to carefully program it, and then put in monitoring devices in several new areas to ensure that I did not overcharge them, even with the Never Die BMS in place. Some of those devices would be standalone, and require more programming individually, and if I got it wrong… Similarly, if I chose to use a Victron inverter/charger, but a different brand of batteries, I would be responsible for integrating the over and under charge wiring and controls into the Victron to ensure no damage was done. All vendors seem to provide ways of doing this through relays and other means, but the conditions of when those items stop/start and fully integrating them correctly would require significant time to program. In addition, if one of those technologies does not work, you could damage your LiFePO4 battery or something worse. The biggest reason for choosing one vendor is the fact that they tested the components I would be using all connected together, and have guidance on almost all of the configuration. Given LiFePO4 batteries are expensive, and the market is still in adoption phase, I felt that this would reduce my risk of having any problems. After a lot of investigation, I decided on a fully integrated Victron system for my design. # Design Figuring out the design of the system took a considerable amount of time. While Victron has a bunch of example diagrams on their website and in their documentation, many of them are generic and don’t get into some of the control details. What I did know was my criteria: - LiFePO4 battery technology – self balancing with safeties/controls - 300 amp hours of house capacity - Non LiFePO4 start battery - Inverter / charger with at least 2000W of inverter capacity - Single control point within inverter / charger for all inbound AC power from dock - Support for charging via solar - Support for charging via alternator - Monitoring both on-boat and remote ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Battery-Locations.jpg) Four battery locations – under the settee, under the master bed, master bedroom cabinet, displacing the air conditioner One of the single biggest deciding factors in the design was the size of the battery or batteries. Even though I was 99% sure I would choose Victron based on their integration and completeness, I was struggling finding a place for the batteries that didn’t just continue to perpetuate a list. I considered using [Lithionics Batteries](http://lithionicsbattery.com/product-category/12-16-volt/?ref=seabits.com) as they had tons of different sizes and amp hour configurations that I might be able to shoehorn in somewhere. I looked everywhere throughout the boat for a good location for the battery. One great area was where the air conditioner is mounted, which if removed, could have fit the 300 amp hour Victron LiFePO4 battery, just barely. I still would have had to modify the drawer above, along with the dry goods storage area, and of course, lose the air conditioner. I discussed this with the crew, and they sounded on the edge of mutiny if I removed the air conditioner, so that idea was tabled. The settee area was OK, but I would have had to split the battery up into smaller 90 amp hour versions, and put multiples in there, which would have required a lot more cabling and fusing. Same with under the master bunk. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Master-stateroom-cabinet-1024x768.jpg) The best location turned out to be the storage cabinet in the master stateroom, which conveniently is located on the port side of the boat. Hopefully having the battery there would negate the list! It would require reinforcement and other modifications, but I was OK with losing storage here if it meant a better balanced boat with lots of power. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Inverter-test-locations.jpg) The other consideration in all of these locations was distance from the inverter and distribution busses. I tried locations near the cabinet inside the master stateroom for the inverter, but none of them really were optimal other than cable length to the batteries. Regardless of which inverter I chose, it would stick out into an area where I already bump my head too many times, and it would be noisy and generate heat where I sleep. Ultimately the best location for the inverter/charger was the lazarette, where it had been before. To start figuring out my design, I jumped into Victron’s manuals, [whitepapers](https://www.victronenergy.com/support-and-downloads/whitepapers?ref=seabits.com), and also [Victron Live](https://www.victronenergy.com/live/start?ref=seabits.com), their living documentation with comments. I also found forum posts and other people’s designs, mostly for RVs and vans, and reviewed as much of their implementations as possible. Most of what was documented covered the high points such as the inverter, battery, charging sources, and the like, but didn’t cover specific areas like a battery management system and the control pieces around it. To be fair, Victron has some of the most complete manuals, diagrams, white papers, and examples of anyone out there. Having had MasterVolt on my previous boat [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) for years, and moving pieces of it over to Grace, I was very surprised at how much more information was available from Victron. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/pkys-screenshot-1024x516.png) Still, even with all of this, I was missing some key pieces of information, mainly around how the battery management system worked, and did I have all of the right pieces and parts. Victron directed me to [Peter Kennedy Yacht Services](http://www.pkys.com/?ref=seabits.com), a big distributor of Victron in the US. Peter himself answered all of my crazy questions and emails and reviewed my proposed diagram and design. Peter also [setup a demo lithium battery system](https://shop.pkys.com/lithium.html?ref=seabits.com) that was extremely helpful in designing mine. I ended up with the following Victron components: - [MultiPlus 12v / 3000 W / 120 amp charge Inverter/Charger](https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters-chargers/multiplus-12v-24v-48v-800va-3kva?ref=seabits.com) - [300ah LiFePO4 smart battery](https://www.victronenergy.com/batteries/lithium-battery-12-8v?ref=seabits.com) - [BlueSolar MPPT 75/15 solar controller](https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510?ref=seabits.com) - [Color Control GX display](https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/color-control?ref=seabits.com) - [BMV-712 smart battery gauge](https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/bmv-712-smart?ref=seabits.com) - [VE.Bus Battery Management System](https://www.victronenergy.com/accessories/ve-bus-bms?ref=seabits.com) - [Digital Multi Control GX remote inverter panel](https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/digital-multi-control-panel-gx?ref=seabits.com) - [Cyrix battery combiner for alternator charging](https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-isolators-and-combiners/cyrix-battery-combiners?ref=seabits.com) - [Battery Protect 100 for DC Loads](https://www.victronenergy.com/battery%5Fprotect/battery-protect?ref=seabits.com) - [Battery Protect 65 for solar panel charge control](https://www.victronenergy.com/battery%5Fprotect/battery-protect?ref=seabits.com) - [Battery Protect 65 for Wallas heater](https://www.victronenergy.com/battery%5Fprotect/battery-protect?ref=seabits.com) I went through many, many revisions of how things were going to connect, where they were going to be installed, and configuration options. One of the most valuable tools when planning things on the boat, which I’ve cited before, is [OmniGraffle](https://www.omnigroup.com/omnigraffle?ref=seabits.com). For Windows users, it is similar to Visio, but with a lot better user experience and easier to use. It was extremely helpful in designing this system as I could vary how things were cross connected and easily see issues with the design. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Grace-Victron-LiFePO4-Power-System-v2-1024x883.jpg) The whole system came together very well, and is represented above. I didn’t put every last connection on the diagram, but the important control and power pieces are there. Lets go through the design: ## House Battery ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Lithium300ah-300x277.png) The central part of this is the [300ah 12v LiFePO4 Victron Smart battery](https://www.victronenergy.com/batteries/lithium-battery-12-8v?ref=seabits.com). This simplifies fusing and wiring, but it does mean it is a single monolithic piece. This means that if this one battery dies somehow, the whole house system is unavailable. I’m OK with that since the likelihood of that should be pretty low given the amount of instrumentation and control is around it. I also looked at two smaller amp hour batteries, but overall they would have required quite a bit more room, and more wiring and complexity. For my needs, this seemed to be the best solution. I really liked how Victron’s Battery Management system would connect directly to the battery, and that you can check on individual cells via an easy to use Bluetooth app on your phone. ## Start Battery ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/GPL-2700T_R_starting-300x300.jpg) The start battery is a LifeLine AGM starting battery I had from another random project. It is more than enough for my 20HP Yanmar engine. ## Control ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/BMS-300x223.png) The VE.Bus BMS is the main part of the control system. It connects directly to the LiFePO4 battery and monitors its health constantly. It is responsible for dropping loads if the battery is too depleted, or stopping charge sources if the battery is full. The unit has two RJ45 ports – one connects to the inverter/charger and allows it to control it directly, while the other connects to the Digital Multi Control GX panel which I cover below. In addition, there is a set of power connectors, and two connectors for the low voltage and high voltage disconnect signals going out to the control devices/relays. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/BMV-712-Smart-300x289.png) The second part of the control system is the BMV-712 battery monitor. This piece is critical with a LiFePO4 battery to ensure you are always aware of the amount of amp hours you have consumed. It consists of a shunt at the house battery, a gauge in the main panel, and a connection between it and the next part of the control system – the Color Control GX display. I also wanted it to monitor the voltage of my start battery. It has a ton of configuration options, and is one of the best battery gauges I have ever seen. You can also interact with it via Bluetooth which is helpful to configure it, as well as check on status of your batteries via your phone. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Color-Control-CX.png) The most visible part of the control system is the Color Control GX. This is a beautiful panel that connects everything together in the Victron world. It has bus ports for VE.Direct, VE.Bus, VE.Can and more. You can configure each of the connected devices (to a certain level), setup alarms and monitoring pages, and set parameters of your Victron “system”, allowing for different behaviors depending on the pieces you have connected together. One of the best parts about the CCGX is its ability to send your data out an internet connection to the Victron portal, or VRM. This allows you to see pretty much all of your data online from a web browser, or from one of Victron’s Android or iOS apps on your phone. You can even set things up to allow for remote control of the Color Control GX via the website, which is useful if you need to see more details or make a change remotely. The Color Control GX will be the flagship centerpiece of the system, allowing for quick access to the health of the whole power system. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Digital-Multi-Control.png) An additional part of the control system is the Digital Multi Control GX panel, which is essentially a carbon copy of the panel on the front of the inverter/charger. This piece is required, and is sort of a hack in my opinion, because if you want to change the input amperage available via AC power, you need this panel. Without this, you cannot change it with the current Victron setup – something that clearly sounds like a hold over from some of the different busses in use. Still, it is nice to have a panel that shows the inverter/charger status remotely, so I’m not complaining. In fact, I use it all the time to turn the inverter/charger off when we’re ready to leave the dock and I don’t want inverting to occur. This directly connects to the VE.Bus BMS. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/07/Victron-VE.Bus-Mains-Detector-AC-connections.png) The final part of the control system is the sometimes overlooked VE.Bus Mains Detector that sits at the inverter/charger, and is connected to the VE.Bus network and VE.Bus BMS. This device allows the VE.Bus BMS to “wake up” the inverter/charger in the event that you completely deplete the LiFePO4 battery and it shuts everything off for safety. Once you reconnect to AC power, the inverter will still be commanded off by the VE.Bus BMS, but this device allows it to turn it back on once it senses AC power. One thing I will mention is that the different types of busses available for Victron products is a source of a lot of confusion. You have at least three different similar types of busses – VE.Bus, VE.Direct, VE.Can – and some products support varying versions of some of these. The only device that has all of them is the Color Control GX, which is good since that is the central piece. However, it is clear that some of these products were built separately, and Victron is trying to unify them all. The result is different size and types of cables, confusion over which ones are necessary, and a complex setup in some cases. Victron is apparently moving towards VE.Bus for most things, with the Color Control GX using VE.Can to dump information onto a NMEA 2000 network, and potentially longer term improvements. ## Charging Charging can happen one of three ways – via the Inverter/Charger when connected to AC dock power, from the engine alternator, and from the solar panels. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/MultiPlus.jpg) The MultiPlus 12-3000-120 Inverter/Charger can charge at 120AMPS while on AC power. It is connected to the VE.Bus BMS and controlled by it depending on the needed charge. It is a very effective and high power charger. Since Victron makes the battery and inverter/charger, there are only a handful of settings required to get it setup correctly, which is a nice change from other products I reviewed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/DSC06919-Edit-300x200.jpg) The engine alternator is a Electromaax Cruiser High Output model capable of 120AMPS. It is paired with an E-MAXX Pro regulator and display panel, and the engine belt system has been upgraded with their serpentine kit to provide for dust free charging, and allow for the 120AMP output. I will be delving into this product a bit more in a separate article. The start battery can be connected to the LiFePO4 battery during charging using the Cyrix relay. It watches for charge level voltages on the start battery terminal, and reads a voltage signal from the VE.Bus BMS, and will connect the two batteries together if criteria are met, and charging is appropriate. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/MPPT-300x267.png) The solar panels are two 100W flexible panels mounted on my bimini, connected to the BlueSolar MPPT 75/15 solar controller. The solar controller is connected to the Color Control GX via VE.Direct, but it cannot command it off – another strange compatibility limitation, likely due to the bus type. As a result, I have a BatteryProtect 65 between the charging leads from the MPPT controller and the LiFePO4 bus. This allows the VE.Bus BMS to completely disconnect the solar panels in the event that the battery is being overcharged. The controller also has Bluetooth, and can be configured using the Victron app. You can also see a wealth of information on solar performance, charging, and historical data via Bluetooth. ## Loads There are three main DC power load sources – the Inverter inverting DC power to AC outlets throughout the boat, the main DC panel and loads, and the secondary loads including the Wallas heater, etc. The inverter loads are controlled by the inverter itself, along with the VE.Bus BMS. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Battery-Protect-100-300x114.png) The main DC panel and loads can be disconnected in the event of a low voltage condition by a 100AMP BatteryProtect that is connected to the VE.Bus BMS. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Battery-Protect-300x132.png) The secondary loads can be disconnected in the same way, but with a slightly smaller 65AMP BatteryProtect. ## Charge & Load Limiting ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Cyrix-300x210.png) The control parts of the system are responsible for turning off loads or charging in the event of an issue. Those control systems include the BatteryProtects for the solar charger, DC loads, and secondary loads, as well as the Cyrix combiner for the start/alternator charging source. These devices sole purpose is to monitor voltage (in the case of the Cyrix) and disconnect their device if the VE.Bus BMS commands it to. They are critical to ensuring the LiFePO4 battery is not overcharged or discharged too much. This is part of the complexity in a LiFePO4 system that is required, but I think this is something that even non-LiFePO4 battery bank setups should consider. I have worked on tons of folks’ battery systems, and many times they have drastically overcharged batteries with badly regulated alternators, or incorrectly configured chargers. People also discharge their batteries to frightening levels without understanding the implications – once voltage falls to a low enough level that stuff stops working, they consider it empty, which could potentially be damaging their batteries. The Cyrix and BatteryProtect products can be configured to operate in standalone modes and monitor specific voltages, and take action when things fall below/above particular thresholds. I think it could be interesting to look into using these with traditional banks as well. ## Inverting & AC Power Control ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/BlueSea-360-AC-panel-1024x683.jpg) Grace’s AC items include two different 15AMP circuits for AC outlets, a water heater, and an air conditioner. The latter two devices are way too high to run away from the dock, and were classified to be used when dock AC power was available. One of my requirements was to have inverter power while away from the dock just for AC outlets throughout the boat, and the MultiPlus Inverter/Charger is perfectly suited for this. The plan was to run AC power from the dock inlet plug to an ELCI breaker (new) and then into the MutiPlus Inverter/Charger. The MultiPlus model I chose has two AC outputs, one for inverted devices, and one only available when standard AC dock power is on. This allows a centrally controlling point for all AC power. There are a couple of benefits in doing this. Most importantly, I can use the Digital Multi Control panel at the nav table and a Victron feature called PowerControl to dial in a particular AC dock amperage so I don’t trip the dock box circuit breaker. I had something similar with my MasterVolt setup, but it was never quite that easy to set. This configuration is perfect, as when we pull up to the dock, the air conditioner and water heater can kick on and suck a ton of AC power, and the charger gets whatever is leftover to charge the batteries, and we’re not tripping breakers. In addition, if there is too much load on the AC power side, the inverter can source power from the batteries to augment the AC power available if you so choose. At the dock that would definitely be nice if needed. This feature is called PowerAssist. The overall inverter power was slightly higher than I needed at 3000W, but this was the only inverter that (a) fit where I wanted to put it, and (b) had the multi AC links, load sharing and power control features all in one. ## Careful Wiring for BMS and BMV The VE.Bus BMS and BMV-712 battery monitor need to be wired in a way that they never get turned off even when the LiFePO4 battery reaches critically low levels. Both of them are critical to ensure you know the state of the LiFePO4 battery, and the BMS can see if charge is applied and command other things back on. If it gets shut down when voltage is low, nothing will come back on and you’ll be in a bit of a catch 22\. However, if you intend on leaving the battery unattended for long periods of time and it won’t be powering any load, put everything into storage mode, disconnect the BMS and BMV. Even leaving the BMV and BMS connected in a deep discharge situation can be bad, as they will continue to drain the battery, which is death for LiFePO4 after a certain level. This is sort of a contradiction if you think about it – they should always be connected, but in the event that you are in a bad situation with super low capacity left, they themselves could damage the battery over a long while, drawing a small amount of power. For my design, I have a panel with fuses wired directly off the battery terminals so that even if I throw the battery switch, they aren’t disconnected. I have so much instrumentation and monitoring that I would always know when the battery was being severely discharged, and not be able to get to the boat within that same day and completely disable things if there was a critical long term outage of AC power. If I were leaving things for a long period of time, I would turn everything off, and pull the fuses for the BMV and BMS. # Order! Once I was happy with the design, I placed my order through PKYS for all of the Victron components. I waited to order wire and other bits until everything came, and I could validate my placement and design. > [Read about my installation and use of this system!](https://seabits.com/installing-and-using-a-victron-lifepo4-energy-system/) ### Conquer seasickness with a ReliefBand URL: https://seabits.com/conquer-seasickness-with-a-reliefband/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T20:00:21.000Z Since as long as I can remember, I’ve gotten motion sick on airplanes, in cars, and on boats. I have tried many different solutions to help reduce how sick I get, and the one that has worked for 15+ years for me reliably and easily is the ReliefBand. I was surprised to find out there is a new version out, and it is the biggest iteration for the product in a long time. I first found out how bad getting motion sick could really be when I started flying for a company back in the early 90’s. I would arrive at the destination airport and need a full day to recover. Not very cost effective for my employer, so I started searching for a solution. Meanwhile, on the boat, I would just deal with it – but I would get motion sick at a perfectly flat anchorage if a single motor boat went by and I was below. It was that easy (or bad, depending on how you look at it). Yet I continued to go out over and over, because I love being on the water. Up until this point, while on the boat or in cars being driven by others, I would take Dramamine or other similar over the counter drugs. They helped, but usually put me to sleep at some point in the process, which also doesn’t work when you’re traveling for business. I went to my doctor, and he prescribed anti-nausea medication (I forget what now) which worked better than Dramamine, but it put me to sleep faster! And there were some other side effects that messed with my digestion, and don’t even think about combining alcohol with them. I went through a few different revisions of these but they all had side effects that I really didn’t like. I tried scopolamine patches, and they were great, but they still caused drowsiness, required a prescription, and were a bit more complicated to manage. You didn’t want to touch them if you removed them early or all sorts of funky things would happen. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBands-old-new-wide-1024x683.jpg) Around this time, I stumbled on a product that was being marketed to pregnant mothers to help with morning sickness called the [ReliefBand](https://amzn.to/2EI1Obn?ref=seabits.com). I can’t remember who turned me onto the product, but a long relationship started! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBands-old-1024x683.jpg) The first versions I had of the ReliefBand were the darker blue ones on the left in the picture above. They came out with a [slightly updated version](https://amzn.to/2EI1Obn?ref=seabits.com) years later with the lighter color on the right. Essentially, this product is a battery powered watch-looking device that has a couple of electrodes on the back, which when placed in the right spot on your wrist, almost completely eliminate the nausea / seasickness feeling. This is done with a small electrical charge applied in the right cluster of nerves over and over in a rhythmic fashion, called [neuromodulation](http://www.neuromodulation.com/about-neuromodulation?ref=seabits.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBands-old-backs-1024x683.jpg) Here’s where the magic happens – the two electrodes that you place against your wrist. You can see they both have been around a long while, with the one on the left having a lot of scratches. Several times over its life, I used sandpaper to polish them back up. For a while the product was off the market, and I had to make sure the ones I had would last! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBands-old-battery-removed-1024x683.jpg) The older models were powered by two CR2025 batteries which you removed by tugging on the rubber front cover on the edge of the watch. This part was not necessarily the best design – the rubber cover was a pain to get back on, and the batteries were put in upside down. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBands-old-battery-1024x683.jpg) Here you can see the upside down battery cage with the upside down UP indicator. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBands-old-battery-spares-1024x683.jpg) A good set of CR2025 batteries would last me about 8 hours on the highest setting, which was usually where I had to have it on longer or bad flights. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBands-old-back-with-gel-1024x683.jpg) The key to making this all work was the conductivity gel. You need a little bit of this on your wrist before you place the watch on it so you’re not, well, cooking your skin. I found that I had to apply this every hour on more intense settings. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBands-old-on-front-1024x683.jpg) Once you have the gel on, using two finger widths from the bend of your hand or so, put the watch on upside down on the inner side of your wrist, and you’re ready to go. I found that this location needed to be varied just a bit depending on which wrist I had it on. My left wrist worked far better than my right. Also, the pressure you have the strap tightened to, as well as whether you have your wrist flexed or straight matters quite a bit. Start on a low setting, and turn it up to get it just right. As I mentioned above, I usually had it set very high for most of my flights – between 4 and 5\. Others who have tried it couldn’t go above 3, while a few people could never go beyond 1. Changing the level required pushing the power button over and over, and sometimes you’d bump it and turn things up/off accidentally. You can [still get the older version on Amazon](https://amzn.to/2EI1Obn?ref=seabits.com), and it works great. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBands-old-back-1024x683.jpg) Seriously, though, this was the **only** thing I had found in years that completely eliminated feeling horrendous on the water, in the air, or in the car. If you have never been truly motion sick or fully nauseous, it is debilitating – and when you’re in control of a boat, it can be dangerous! Even with it being the solution to my woes, it was still a bit funky – the upside down batteries, the upside down or backwards watch with the face facing the wrong way which you bumped and messed up the electrodes, and moderate battery life. It just wasn’t quite perfect… I used the old versions of the watch for over 10 years, probably longer. Then a few months ago, I saw an ad for a [new version](https://amzn.to/2EY8m7f?ref=seabits.com) and was so excited! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBand-new-charging-1024x683.jpg) At first glance, it is a completely different product. A single piece, much more engineered and custom – and oriented the right way – the watch face pointing towards you normally, and the electrodes on the back of your wrist. And even better, no batteries to mess with – just a USB cable to charge. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBand-new-charging-port-1024x683.jpg) Unfortunately it is a custom cable, so in a way this could be worse – if you lose the cable, you’re out of luck once the battery runs down. I wish they would have used a standard USB cable for both ends. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBand-new-contacts-1024x683.jpg) The electrodes are bigger on this version, and look a lot better made. They give a much more spread out shock, which I like a lot. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBand-new-power-buttons-1024x683.jpg) On the side of the watch are the power control and on/off buttons. They are far less susceptible to being accidentally pushed like the old ones, and are easier to change up and down. The old watches you had to keep pushing the power button to cycle through the strengths and back around again. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBand-new-on-1024x683.jpg) Once its on, it looks far better than the old ones – more like a fitness tracker than anything. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBand-new-clasp-1024x683.jpg) The clasp is nicer than the old ones. A little hard to work with one hand, but infinitely more adjustable which is very important. The more or less you tighten things can dictate how intense the treatment is, and is important to be able to vary as much as you can. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBand-new-status-icons-1024x683.jpg) To turn it on you hold the top right plus button a couple of seconds and you’re up and running. The upper right symbol indicates it is on, and pulses slowly. The big diagonal line in the middle is the power level, and I have it cranked up to max here. You can adjust that with the two buttons on the right hand side of the watch. The bottom right icon is the battery level – I have about 1/2 capacity – full capacity would be a four segment circle. This is a huge improvement as the older models had no indication of battery. I always carried lots of spare batteries, and fretted while on longer flights about running out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/ReliefBand-new-on-indicator-1024x683.jpg) When its operating, the only icon showing is the little heartbeat to let you know things are working. Very unobtrusive and easy to see things are OK. I’ve used the new one on two 7 hour plane trips where I ended up having to wear it for almost 10 hours each way due to coming down after the flight. I’ve also used it a number of times on the boat, and it **works even better** than the old models ever did. It also appears to last almost double the time. I like how more rigid the whole watch is, the longer battery time, easy USB charging, and the more custom design. Its easier to adjust things, and to know your battery status. I’m not a fan of the custom USB cable, but I am very careful to always maintain these well given they are the only way to overcome the motion sickness I have so often, so I doubt I will ever lose it. If you get nauseous or motion sick, and are tired of trying things that make you more tired or have weird side effects, try the ReliefBand. You won’t be disappointed! ### Improvements with a new propeller URL: https://seabits.com/improvements-with-a-new-propeller/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:44:00.000Z [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) came with a factory prop when I purchased her – it was OK, but after 3 years of using that prop, I felt that I could get better speed and potentially other benefits. I started by leveraging my usual research locations for my specific boat – the [Ask a Beneteau Owner forum](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?forums/ask-a-beneteau-owner.64/&ref=seabits.com), [Beneteau Owners mailing list](https://groups.google.com/forum/?ref=seabits.com#!forum/beneteau-owners), and the [Beneteau 311 Facebook group](https://www.facebook.com/groups/1773900089534516/?ref=bookmarks). I didn’t find anyone with my exact model that swore by a particular prop, but there was a lot of information on different options. # Current Data Grace is powered by a Yanmar 2GM20F engine which has a 3200 RPM continuous output rating, and a 3400 max WOT (wide open throttle) rating. These are ratings on the engine plate itself, and not necessarily real world. I have found that a cruising RPM 3000 RPM is the comfortable max based on vibration and performance. I could go up to 3200-3300 if needed in an emergency, but the speed improvement was negligible, and the vibration and fuel consumption increased quite a bit. Average speed was about 5.5 knots through the water at 2800 RPM, and close to 6 at 3000\. I was able to get this up a bit last year when Grace [had been hauled and painted](https://seabits.com/haul-out-chart-plotter-sail-cover/), and that lasted for a few months until a little growth came back. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Grace-old-prop-1024x672.jpg) The existing propeller was a two blade, right hand model that appeared to have been factory installed. It has an end piece with an adapter for the “rolo” style Beneteau zinc on the end. The shaft is 25mm and very short – no room for additional zincs. # Investigation My main goals were to get more speed while motoring longer distances, and to improve reverse while backing. With those goals in mind, I focused in on the following props: - [Kiwi Prop](http://kiwiprop.us/?ref=seabits.com) - [Autoprop](http://www.bruntonspropellers.com/autoprop/?ref=seabits.com) - [Gori propeller](https://gori-propeller.com/en/?ref=seabits.com) There are many other choices, such as the Max Prop, Variprop, and tons of others. Many of those have great properties and features, but these three seemed to have the best reviews, match what I was looking for, and would fit my boat. I talked with the manufacturers of each of these props as well as their US distributors. I asked for data on my exact boat model, and discussed the properties I was looking for. Kiwi props looked really good, but the performance information I could get seemed a little too marketing focused. In addition, there were either really angry or really happy Kiwi customers, mainly from what sounds like a progressive product that has gone through many revisions. I appreciate that very much, as I would generally choose a product like that for my boat. However, when it comes to something like a prop that lives underwater 99% of the time, and I can’t access and maintain myself, I wanted something that was bit more traditional. Autoprops have a really cool design where the pitch varies no matter the RPM, and I initially focused on this as being my primary choice. However, they don’t have the overall top speed compared to other props, are quite large/heavy, and do not completely fold up while sailing. One company in particular stood out as the most helpful and detail oriented – Geoff at [AB Marine](https://www.ab-marine.com/?ref=seabits.com) assisted me in considering both the Gori and Autoprop. He provided a very detailed response from my initial inquiry, and put up with my detailed questions and emails trying to figure out what to choose. Ultimately I chose to order a Gori propeller, 15″ x 12 x 3-blade model. This seemed like the best choice based on its performance in both forward and reverse, and folded up very small while sailing. Lots of people seem to love the Gori, and I found a couple of folks who actually have it on my exact boat. Within a week, the prop was on its way from Denmark. # Swapping Props ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Gori-propeller-side-1024x768.jpg) I considered two ways to get the props swapped – one was having a diver do the work, and second was having Grace hung in a TravelLift for an hour while I did the swap myself. After chatting with my long-time diver at [Emerald City Diving](http://www.emeraldcitydiving.com/index.html?ref=seabits.com), I decided to have them change it for me. They had installed and maintained many Gori Propellers and knew exactly what they were doing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Gori-end-zinc-1024x683.jpg) Gori gears and tiny end zinc The Gori propeller is a three blade, geared folding propeller with a bit of a trick. Instead of folding out one direction, it can fold both in a forward and a reverse orientation. This is how you get the full speed reverse and overdrive features. Here’s a helpful video to see how the Gori works. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Gori-folded-profile-1024x683.jpg) All folded up The profile of the prop when folded up is quite small. I’m looking forward to seeing higher speeds while sailing as a result. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Gori-inner-683x1024.jpg) Keyed inner section The prop itself is extremely well built, feels very hefty in the hand, and has a number of cool features to make assembly and servicing easier. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Gori-open-1024x683.jpg) Gori open in forward position ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Old-propeller-1024x683.jpg) The old one took a bit of muscle to get off, but in the end the diver won. It didn’t look bad for having been in the water for almost a year, even with Propspeed on it. The zinc was a different situation – it was completely gone, and had been changed in the last 6 months. The standard Beneteau zinc is sort of small, so I am hoping the larger ones on the Gori will fare better. The existing shaft key was too big to work with the Gori, so the guys from Emerald City Diving took it away to modify it, and try again to install the new prop the next day – I love working with companies and people who focus on customer service and getting the right thing done! Everything worked out, and the new prop was on. # Old vs New ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Gori-vs-old-propeller-1024x683.jpg) While both props were out, I did some comparisons. The surface area of the old prop blade was larger than a blade on the Gori, but overall it definitely looked like the total surface area of the Gori was more significant. The pitch was also quite a bit different between the two. The Gori also weighed quite a bit more with all its gears and pieces. # Performance Data ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Testing-screens.jpg) Once things were installed, I headed out on the water to do some performance testing. I made sure to do all of the testing in calm water, at as close to no current as possible, and back and forth over the same general area. I took data samples at least 3 times on each of the RPMs and modes. In addition, I decided to head over to Blake Island and did some longer term motoring at cruising speeds to verify my data. ## Gori propeller in standard mode ![gori-standard](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/gori-standard.png) Using the Gori in standard mode resulted in a significant increase in overall performance across much of the RPM band compared to the existing propeller. What was very nice to see was a speed of 7.3 knots at 3000 RPM, which is almost 2 knots of increase. That’s a significant increase for us – the real world example I have been using is the time from Seattle to Pt. Townsend, day 1 of two in our transit to the San Juan Islands – a 34.8 nautical mile trip. With the old prop, that would take about 6 hours and 20 minutes. That same trip at 7 knots takes just under 5 hours. That is a savings of almost an hour and a half on the water, giving us more flexibility for departure/arrival windows, planning tides and currents, etc. ## Gori propeller in overdrive mode ![gori-overdrive](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/gori-overdrive.png) Based on the overdrive testing, I can see a benefit in terms of reducing overall RPM to get better fuel economy while still moving pretty fast. I did observe that 2650 RPM is near the max that I can get out of the engine when overdrive is engaged. Anything beyond causes the engine to start belching dark black smoke, indicative of being overloaded. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/06/Gori-vs-stock-prop-graph-1024x742.png) Taking all of the data from both the stock propeller and the new Gori and placing it on a graph, you can clearly see the performance benefits. As good as overdrive mode appears to be, I experienced more vibration in that mode than in standard mode, and would only use it at RPMs of 2000 or less. I prefer standard mode, and love that I am able to get past a 7 knot speed. # Other Benefits Backing performance was one of the other goals to improve. Previously, getting out of our slip required angling the boat a bit, pushing her out of the slip a ways, and then flooring the engine. Inevitably, Grace would only travel in a straight line, and little control was available. Once we got close enough to the opposite side of the fairway, throwing it into forward and gunning it resulted in a way to get out of the slip. If there was wind, current, or other challenges, backing was a liability. With the Gori, I have an amazing amount of power in reverse, which is just as advertised. Not only can I get enough way that the rudder has water going fast enough to control the boat, but it does not require full throttle in reverse. I’m very much looking forward to having more control when backing. In addition to performance under motor, I am looking forward to faster sailing speeds. The Gori folds up very small and thin, and I expect to see increased sailing performance as a result. It will be hard to quantify this since I can’t really know for sure, but not having all the resistance from the two bladed prop stopped in the water has to help. I’m extremely pleased with the performance increase in cruising speed from the Gori – it will open up a ton of new places to explore, or make our time on the water shorter for some of our usual haunts. Having the same power when backing up will provide a much safer way to maneuver. A great upgrade! --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Chris L-S [September 21, 2018 at 5:56 am](https://seabits.com/improvements-with-a-new-propeller/#comment-351) Love our Gori and run it in overdrive 90% of the time. Just an FYI – from a servicing perspective, enjoy yourself when you have to replace the “flexible stops”. They aren’t so flexible. Took us a few hours and a lot of pain the last time we did this to get the new ones to lay right. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 22, 2018 at 4:38 pm](https://seabits.com/improvements-with-a-new-propeller/#comment-363) Interesting info on the maintenance side of things. I have used overdrive, but I end up getting better speed out of normal mode most of the time. Overdrive is great when motor sailing though! ### Major mast work URL: https://seabits.com/major-mast-work/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T20:07:11.000Z In the last year I have had a number of issues with items in or on [Grace’s](https://seabits.com/grace/) mast. During a [recent trip to Blake Island](https://seabits.com/the-tale-of-two-sails/), the anchor light stopped working, and that was the last straw. It was time to dig deeper into fixing all of the issues. By this time, I had the following problems: VHF quality issues – I continued to have very bad quality when transmitting (almost unusable) and poor reception when receiving as well. I had replaced the cable inside the cabin, ends, and even had a friend test the cable. Anchor light tripping circuit breaker – weirdly, every time I tried to turn on the anchor light, it tripped the circuit breaker. This indicated either a wiring fault, or something very bad with the bulb. I believed the bulb was LED. Raymarine wind failures – the ST60 wind instrument was giving very odd readings. At times, it would show no wind when there definitely was. Multiple observations over a month showed that the anemometer portion of the instrument wasn’t spinning as fast as it should, and likely was worn out or in need of maintenance. Steaming light failed – this light failed late last year. It is part of a Forespar combo steaming / deck light. # Investigation I wanted to understand more about the failures. Were these failures related in some way, or was this just from years of use without much maintenance? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/mast-picture-from-below-1024x683.jpg) The VHF issues appeared to be centered mostly on the cable. I had a friend who is well versed in antennas and cabling visit and test the cable from the base of the mast to the antenna, and it had an SWR of 42! That is very, very bad. Even [replacing the ends as I had done before](https://seabits.com/proper-vhf-ends-easier-than-you-think/) didn’t make a difference. The anchor light was a mystery. I tested the wiring internally below the mast, and everything was fine. Using a Fluke meter, I was able to see what I expected to be a correct resistance level when testing the wiring from the base of the mast to the top. Clearly there was a short somewhere, but the way things behaved didn’t make sense. The wind instrument was clearly in need of maintenance. Using online instructions to test the signal proved that it was definitely working correctly and wasn’t failing at the sensor level. I guessed that over time the bearings had gotten fouled or just needed to be lubricated. There’s a [great post on YBW.com](http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?337181-Raymarine-wind-speed-slowing-down&p=3854710&ref=seabits.com#post3854710) on how to take apart, clean, and lubricate the whole setup. Still, I had been considering replacing it with a NMEA 2000 or more modern device the next time I had the chance. The steaming light was pretty obvious – as far as I can tell, the previous owner (or someone else) used an off the shelf home extension cable, cut the ends off of it, and used that inside the mast. It was badly corroded and was clearly not made to be in a marine environment. To make matters worse, the cable slapped inside the mast constantly when the boat moved, as it had never been secured. Additionally, this fixture was an older Forespar combo unit which used standard bulbs, and likely the steaming bulb had gone out. Given that I wanted to replace the steaming/deck light cable, and had to replace the VHF cable, my investigation pointed towards replacing all wiring and cables while I was at it. It was likely easier to do that than leaving existing cabling and running new ones side to side. One of the challenges was how the cabling was run – was it all inside a conduit inside the mast? How was it secured, if at all? Was there one conduit running all the way up, or more than one? I posted in two areas that I have had excellent luck for my model of Beneteau – SailboatOwners.com and the [Beneteau 311 Facebook group](https://www.facebook.com/groups/1773900089534516/), which I just handily happen to be the administrator of. I started a thread about [pulling wires for a 311 Beneteau mast](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/311-or-similar-model-mast-insides-pulling-wires.190939/&ref=seabits.com) on SailBoatOwners and got some good pictures and advice from members. The best feedback was from the Facebook group, including pictures of the top of the mast, suggestions for what is inside, and more. In addition, I was able to look into the inside of the mast with a flashlight and could only see one conduit, and the loose extension cable up to the steaming/deck light. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/360-mast-port-809x1024.jpg) To get more information, I rigged up my Ricoh Theta 360 camera on a halyard and took some pictures of the top of the mast. This was extremely helpful, and allowed me to see everything that was at the top and plan both space and setup. Quite a handy way of getting pictures of the top of your mast! Some folks suggested I use my drone to get pictures, but Elliott Bay Marina is well within range of the Kenmore Air base on Lake Union, which requires notifying ATC and the airport, and close enough to many other restricted areas that I would rather not. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/360-mast-starboard-1024x576.jpg) # Planning My first idea to solve all these problems was to pay someone to climb the mast, remove the broken stuff, pull wire, job done. The wire pulling was the part that I wasn’t too sure about, and after some investigation, I didn’t think it would work out. The wiring takes a sharp 90 degree turn as it comes out of the bottom of the mast, and who knows what it looks like at the top. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/cables-passthrough-from-mast-1024x683.jpg) After a lot of thinking, I decided that the best way to solve all of these issues was take the mast down and do the work in a yard. It was a big decision, as I have not done this on Grace, and only two other times on other boats, and I was a bit nervous. With that decision made, it was time to come up with a plan for attacking work. I wanted to do the majority of it myself mainly for time savings and to ensure it was done right. I always prefer to do my own work so that I know how it has been done, and can troubleshoot things in the future if need be. I figured I could do everything in 3 days – first day to drop the mast and examine things, second day to do the majority of the work, and the third to finalize things and put the mast back up. It was aggressive, but I was pretty sure I could do it. # Upgrades and Updates ## VHF Antenna and Cable I was able to take long zoom photos of the current antenna, and found out it was a [Shakespeare 5215](https://amzn.to/2C8RFDW?ref=seabits.com) model. I didn’t see any reason to choose something different, as they are light, resilient, and good performers. Plus, the existing bracket already on the mast should be good for the new one. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/VHF-wire-1024x683.jpg) For cabling, I chatted with a friend well versed in antennas, and he suggested LMR-195, which is not a type I am used to in the marine world. However, it has great specs, albeit slightly less flexible than the usual RG-8\. The plan was to run a single wire from the antenna all the way down the mast, through the hull, and to the VHF radio. ## Anchor Light A friend recommended the [LunaSea LED anchor light](http://www.lunasealighting.com/products/detail/anchor-fixture-w-flash-no-ais-interference-certified-uscg-colreg-72-abyc-a1/led-navigation-fixtures-and-bulbs?ref=seabits.com), and it looked perfect for my use. Not only is it LED, but it uses glass instead of plastic for the light itself, and machined aluminum for the rest of the housing – very well built. In addition, it has a very sharp bird spike that can be removed, and you can put your Windex there instead if you choose. The light is also rated to have very low, if not zero, EMI for things like a VHF antenna. No compatibility concerns there. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/LunaSea-LED-light-1024x683.jpg) The light can not only be used as an anchor light, but as an SOS emergency light as well. ## Steaming and Deck Light ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Forespar-light-side-1024x683.jpg) I found a great [LED staging and deck light from Forespar](https://amzn.to/2TlmFeN?ref=seabits.com) that looked very close to the original. The steaming light was a more amber white LED color, while the deck light was very bright white LEDs. It has three wires and the ability to separate out turning one or the other on, which my current setup did not have. This was great since I definitely want to be able to have the steaming light on while not having the deck lit up and my night vision compromised. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Forespar-light-deck-LEDs-1024x683.jpg) ## Wind Instrument ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/LCJ-Capteurs-CV7-side-1024x683.jpg) This was the subject of a number of discussions, including [one on the new Marine Electronics Forums that I’m part of on Panbo](https://www.panbo.com/marineelectronicsforum/panbo-forum-general-discussion/wireless-wind-sensor/?ref=seabits.com). In particular, I was trying to choose between a wired or wireless sensor, and mechanical or ultrasonic sensor head. I ruled out wireless sensors after seeing the same challenges I had with the Tacktick system on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) – I did not want to deal with spotty reception or other issues for an instrument I consider to be pretty critical on the boat. Wired seemed like the right approach, but should I go ultrasonic or traditional? I could have replaced the current sensor with an updated version of the Raymarine ST series, but that was expensive and still would have required some changes at the mast. Garmin’s gWind transducer has always been a favorite of mine because of its design with the dual tail fin and spinning front sensor like an airplane prop, but I didn’t want to have to also install a Garmin wind instrument at the helm just to update it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/LCJ-Capteurs-CV7-with-WindyPlug-1024x683.jpg) A bunch of conversations later, I arrived at the [LCJ Capteurs CV7](http://www.lcjcapteurs.com/product/cv7/?lang=en&ref=seabits.com) ultrasonic wind instrument. Ben over at Panbo had a [variation of the same instrument](https://www.panbo.com/smorgasboat-2-more-tasty-test-electronics-southbound-on-gizmo/?ref=seabits.com) and seemed to like it. I had the Airmar and Maretron ultrasonic instruments on Jammy, but never liked how bulky they were. The Capteurs is made to be the same profile as a mast mounted traditional instrument, and has a thin wire to pull down the mast. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/LCJ-WindyPlug-1024x683.jpg) I also got the [WindyPlug](http://www.lcjcapteurs.com/product/windyplug/?lang=en&ref=seabits.com), which allows me to connect it to my NMEA 2000 network directly without any conversion and also get barometric pressure. ## Flag halyard ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Flag-halyard-pieces-1024x683.jpg) Grace did not come with a flag halyard, so I found a shroud cleat, a Harken block, some flag clips, and some paracord. ## Other things ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Scotch-rubber-splicing-tape-1024x683.jpg) Besides the new instruments and items, there were some critical tools needed. One of the most important was rubber splicing tape which I used wherever wires touched anything else to provide chafe protection, as well as around the VHF antenna for waterproofing. It is extremely thick electrical-tape-like and similar to sail tape. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Sheaves-1024x683.jpg) I hoped to replace the sheaves at the top of the mast since I had it down. I grabbed a few different types and sizes based on forum information on my mast. I also tried to grab every possible tool and connector I could think of just in case I found something strange while I had the mast down. # Un-stepping the mast ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Grace-prepped-for-unstepping-768x1024.jpg) Getting the mast off was quite a lot of work. Besides the actual removal of the mast, I spent multiple days ahead of time removing the running rigging, sails, labeling everything, marking the standing rigging points, and generally cleaning up the deck in preparation for the mast removal. This was by far the longest part of the entire job! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Marking-the-rigging-1024x768.jpg) One important thing I always recommend is to mark your rigging before removing it. I used black electrical tape and it saved **tons** of time when we were stepping the mast a few days later. Once that was done, it was a quick trip up to Seaview near Shilshole Bay Marina. After prepping the rig for about an hour, the guys came over with the crane, grabbed the mast, and away she went! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Grace-without-mast-768x1024.jpg) My plan was to work on the mast Tuesday afternoon, Wednesday all day, and Thursday morning to complete all the work. I was going to stay on Grace (minus the mast!) at nearby Shilshole Bay Marina to keep my commute times down, and do the work all myself. Shilshole was nice enough to put me in a slip right on A dock instead of their usual guest dock so I had a really short walk to the yard. That saved me a lot of time and back pain carrying my tools and junk back and forth. # Removal ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Masthead-old-stuff-1024x768.jpg) The first step was taking lots of pictures and then removing all of the old stuff. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/VHF-old-antenna-768x1024.jpg) The old antenna looked OK, a bit old of course, but the wiring was the big problem. As suspected, whomever wired it last used a crimp on VHF connector. I have covered my mistakes in choosing these in the past, and how [easy it is to do a much better job](https://seabits.com/proper-vhf-ends-easier-than-you-think/). Cutting the cable jacket away, and you could clearly see corrosion within the inside of the wire as far as I could see. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Anchor-light-old-768x1024.jpg) The anchor light looked OK, although I have never seen one like this. It looks like the original incandescent bulb was replaced with an unknown LED one at some point. I could not find any manufacturer information on the bulb, but the anchor light was made by Hella, and looks like the factory casing. I tested the wiring and light, and it looks like there is a short somewhere in the light. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Forespar-old-light-1024x768.jpg) The existing steaming/deck light was actually the same exact light I had just purchased except that the new one was LED. How convenient! I bet the screws would match… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Forespar-crappy-wiring-1024x768.jpg) On top of using a home extension cable, the wiring to the steaming/deck light was connected using automotive crimps. I bet this is why the light doesn’t work… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Masthead-old-stuff-top-768x1024.jpg) The space at the top of the mast looked compact, but I was pretty sure I could fit all of the new stuff up here. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Masthead-top-removed-sheaves-halyards-768x1024.jpg) The sheaves at the top looked in very good condition, which is good because the ones I bought ahead of time were the wrong size. Nothing about the rest of the rig or mast looked damaged, old, or in need of attention, which was awesome. The rest of my plans matched with reality as far as I could tell. Time to start the rewire! # Rewiring ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Wire-with-astroglide-1024x683.jpg) I know I got some odd glances when I was pulling new wire and using Astroglide, but it works! Some people us dish soap, but I find that Astroglide leaves less of a mess and works a bit better. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Old-wires-removed-768x1024.jpg) I used the old wiring to pull the new ones through. From the top of the mast, there was a PVC conduit that ran in the corner of the mast all the way to near the bottom. I was pulling three new cables, and there were three old cables, so I attached each to a matching one, threw some Astroglide on the new and old cables, and pulled them all through. I was mostly worried about this part of the work, but it was done in less than 30 minutes! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Pulling-wires-mast-1024x768.jpg) You can see the sharp turn things take before they exit the mast – this would have been very difficult to deal with while the mast was up. You can also see the orange extension cable that goes up to the mid mast location and the steaming/deck light. The other three cables are for the anchor light (white safety duplex), VHF LMR-195, and thin wire to the LCJ Capteurs wind instrument. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Pulling-wire-zipties-768x1024.jpg) For the mid mast spreader/deck light, I used a trick that I had learned from a previous boat and mast. I attached zipties and left their tails on, pulling the wire in slowly. The zipties should keep the wire from slapping around inside the mast, at least most of the time. I used 3 strand wire for this light so I could have control over the steaming and deck light separately. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Deburring-wire-holes-768x1024.jpg) I used my deburring tool on the wire exit holes at the bottom of the mast and made sure there were no sharp edges. Even with a grommet, I prefer doing this as the grommets eventually fall out at some point, and I didn’t want the wires to be damaged. Surprisingly the factory holes were quite sharp, even after all this time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Wires-installed-looking-up-mast-768x1024.jpg) All four wires were now in, and as I said, quite quickly. I left a nice service loop at the bottom, and sent things out the two holes. You can see the three wires headed to the top of the mast on the left hand side going up the PVC, and the zip tie tail wire in the middle. # Installing the toys With the wires in place, it was time to connect everything together. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Masthead-new-angle-close-1024x768.jpg) I was able to re-use the existing VHF bracket and install the new antenna. I also used the super thick rubber splicing tape both to cover the connector at the bottom of the antenna, and wherever the wire went through a grommet or holding device. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Masthead-new-top-768x1024.jpg) The anchor light required a bit of futzing to fit in the space, as it was slightly bigger than the older one. I did not connect all three wires from the anchor light, only the positive and negative for it to be used as a normal anchor light. There was a third wire that could be used to flash an SOS or emergency signal, which I didn’t feel I would ever use. I also didn’t want the additional space challenges in running that many wires to the top of the mast. The LCJ Capteurs CV7 ultrasonic wind instrument fit in the space vacated by the big hunk of aluminum that came with the Raymarine ST60 wind instrument. It was extremely easy to orient correctly, and was ready to go. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Forespar-wiring-1024x768.jpg) For the steaming/deck light, I had a bit more of a challenge getting the wire out of the mid-mast hole, but using some trickery with small gauge steel wire, I fished it out and connected things up. This is before I used my Dremel torch to close down the shrink wrap, but I’m happy that I have the ability to control each light separately. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Forespar-light-side-installed-1024x768.jpg) The new light was a carbon copy for the old one, and the screws fit perfectly! I used my [Noco jumpstarter](https://seabits.com/portable-lithium-jump-starter-sailboat/) as a portable 12v power supply so I could test the lighting. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Flag-halyard-installed-768x1024.jpg) I didn’t take any good pictures, but I was able to install my new flag halyard within about 30 minutes – a couple of holes tapped into the bottom of the spreader, attach the block, and run the paracord. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Masthead-new-1024x768.jpg) I was very happy with how everything came out – I completed all of this work in a day, and had the second one to tidy things up and recover from a long day in the hot sun! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Tap-oil-1024x768.jpg) When attaching everything, I used a smaller drill to drill the hole, and a lot of tap oil. Once the hole was drilled, I used an appropriate sized tap, and again a lot of tap oil. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Tapping-with-drill-768x1024.jpg) I prefer to use the tap in my electric drill instead of using a typical tap tool. I find that I am able to tap things more accurately this way, with the threads straight and true. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Anti-seize-in-use-1024x768.jpg) With any steel inserted into aluminum, its important to ensure you use anti seize to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing between the two disparate metals. Overall, I made a minimum of new holes for things like the anchor light and wind instrument, while I was able to re-use the existing bracket for the VHF antenna, holes for cable holders and passthroughs, and exact match for the steaming/deck light. Ready to put it all back together! # Stepping the mast ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Mast-wires-ready-stepped-1024x768.jpg) Once everything was done in the yard, and I had strapped up all of the wires and rigging ready to be put back up, it was time to call the crane. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Mast-back-on-boat-1024x768.jpg) Getting the mast back up on the boat took a bit longer than expected. We fought the rigging a bit trying to get the spreaders connected, mainly due to the way the rig is canted towards the stern. After a couple of failed attempts to get the backstay connected, we realized the spreaders were more than enough to hold the rig centered, and adjusted our approach. It was still over an hour of messing with it before things were stable enough for the crane to depart. After a bit of touch up, I moved over to A dock to rest and recover from a busy 3 days. # Reconnecting everything ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Grace-night-lights-683x1024.jpg) That evening, I was able fish the cables through to the navigation panel – it was one of the most difficult parts of the whole project because of the path they had to follow, but if that was the hardest part, I’m OK with it. After a bit of testing, the anchor and steaming/deck lights were up and running, and looked beautiful on a calm night. I was able to wander up onto the docks and get a great picture. The LCJ Capteurs wind instrument worked the instant I plugged in the WindyPlug. No configuration required, just beautiful wind data on the NMEA 2000 network. The VHF radio lit up with more talk than I ever remember hearing. I left a service loop of the LMR-195 near the base of the mast inside the cabin just in case the mast has to come down – I could cut and splice it there if needed. # Tuning the rig ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Tensioning-the-rig-767x1024.jpg) Before leaving Shilshole the next morning, I took the opportunity to tune the rig as best as I know how. Years ago I purchased and found it a great resource to learn how to do this. I spent about an hour getting things almost right back to where they were before un-stepping, and was happy with the way things looked. The next few hours I spent putting the boom back on, re-attaching running rigging, and getting ready for the hour plus jaunt back to the home marina. # Results Sailing home with with the rig back on and everything working the way it should was extremely satisfying. Even at this point, I could see great benefits in the work I had done. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/Sailing-back-home-1024x768.jpg) This work has been done now for about a month, and I can say it was worth every penny and bead of sweat lost. The lighting now works the way it should have. My anchor light takes next to no power, is visible from the moon, shuts itself off at daybreak, and doesn’t cause any interference problems. The steaming/deck light is also a pleasure to have working correctly. We’ve been out at least 3 times in the last month while under motor as the sun as gone down, and the steaming light has shone bright and true. Plus, I am not blinded by the deck light also being on since they are separated now. The crew loves the light (maybe not the temp – tis a bit clinical) on the deck – it is super bright even from the four LEDs, and makes it easy for tasks at night. The LCJ Capteurs CV7 wind instrument is so much more accurate than the previous Raymarine system. I have been especially impressed with its granularity in light air, and have no complaints whatsoever. I will likely do a deeper dive on the instrument itself, how it presents itself on a NMEA 2000 network and to MFDs, wiring, and a discussion about apparent/true wind and support. The most surprising thing is the VHF antenna and wiring improvements. I ran a single cable from the antenna all the way to the radio – no joint in between. The new antenna, properly sealed connectors, and high quality cabling gave astonishing results. Not only could I transmit and people actually hear me from quite a ways away, but what I could hear was amazing. From my slip in Elliott Bay Marina, I can routinely hear boats as far north as Edmonds, and as far south as Tacoma. Most of them are Washington State Ferries, but I also hear pleasure craft, bigger ships, and much more. I even heard [S/V Lutris](http://sailinglutris.com/about/?ref=seabits.com) all the way across Elliott Bay on a low power channel asking to have a bridge opening. By far, this was the best improvement in doing this work – having a much more reliable VHF radio to hear and be heard will bring peace of mind in the event of an emergency. All told, it was several weeks of scrambling to get things together, a week of really hard work prepping, 3 days of hot work in the yard, but worth it! I hope that I don’t have to take the mast down again for many years to come. ### Modular, cheaper boat internet solution via Netgear and MikroTik URL: https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:24:59.000Z I’ve written a lot about my [boat network](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/), and in particular, Peplink products that offer a ton of functionality and features. However, those come at a cost – the top of the line compact unit from Peplink can run almost $1000\. For the last 6 months, I have been playing with configurations and hardware that cost less, but still provide flexibility and features that more expensive solutions offer. # The Search I started by thinking about the criteria for on-boat networking and came up with some basic, high level requirements. **Local WiFi** – must be able to create a local WiFi network running both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands. Both are required because many locations have too much interference for 2.4Ghz to work properly. **Local Ethernet ports** – there should be a few Ethernet ports on the device to allow for connection to items on your boat that cannot use WiFi. **Remote WiFi** – must be able to grab remote WiFi signals and use them as a source for the Internet connection. Ideally this should be done via an externally mounted antenna/system. **LTE Internet** – must be able to use a standard LTE connection to provide Internet access. **DC power** – should run off of DC power, preferably 12v. **Relatively inexpensive** – commercial vendor solutions start at $600 and don’t meet all of these requirements. Most are $800-1200 for all requirements, so this solution should be cheaper. **Modular** – if possible, it should be modular so various components can be swapped out for lower/higher performance, and when protocols/standards change/improve. Note that I did not include plug-and-play or dead-simple configuration. I am willing to spend a bit more time setting something up, and have a deep computing and systems background, but I tried to make this solution for someone who has a moderate computing background, or is at least willing to do some work to save some money. If you expect a simple wizard or one screen configuration, this is not the product/solution for you – you are better buying one of the more commercial solutions. # Commercial Solutions There are a ton of options out there for Internet access both at home and while mobile. I’ve mentioned a few before, including [Peplink](https://seabits.com/?s=peplink) and Cradlepoint. These are fully commercial solutions that cost quite a bit of money, have tons of features, and are really good for networking nerds like myself, or folks who need abundance of features or functionality. They are generally produced for mobile applications, but lately many manufacturers are targeting the marine industry. The problem with many of these solutions is the cost, both initial and support for ongoing years, and the proprietary hardware they lock you into. I personally use the [Peplink Max Transit](https://www.peplink.com/products/max-transit/?ref=seabits.com) on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) and recently upgraded to the newer LTE radio version which was almost $900\. I have dual LTE SIMs that can I choose from, 2.4 and 5Ghz WiFi, a LAN port that I uplink to a switch, and a WAN port that goes to my WiFi booster. You can see more details in [Grace’s Redundant Internet Setup](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/). I use fancy rate shaping features, monitor things from cloud services, and do all sorts of other wonderful things that I find interesting, but that I have heard from many boaters, are not interesting to them. It is a great piece of hardware and software, but it comes at a price, and locks you in to their ecosystem. In addition to those vendors, there are marine specific solutions like the Wirie, Rogue Networks, and many others. Many use the same hardware as you will see below adding a simplified UI to the product, and providing remote support. The cost for this is usually 2-4x times the list price of the hardware, and can drive their solutions up to a similar price point as larger commercial vendors. At the time of this article, the Wirie Pro with LTE added on is $800, and has less than half the features of the Peplink. They are often hard to get (out of stock a lot!) and don’t necessarily have the support department behind them that the larger vendors do. The biggest reason to choose any of these vendors is the all-in-one solution and support. If you don’t want to get your hands dirty configuring a MikroTik, then look no further, these are for you. Many people also grouse and complain about how much these solutions cost compared to their “home WiFi router” – take a minute and remember two things. First, if you have been in boating long enough, you know anything with the word “marine” before it makes things far more expensive! Second, does your home router have an LTE connection along with a long range antenna boosting a remote WiFi signal? I thought so. You only have one piece of the three part puzzle that you need on the boat. # Testing I tried a number of different vendors software and hardware, and reviewed even more online. The first set of tests involved looking for a solution where all or most of the functionality was in one single system. This proved to be very difficult, and pushed the cost up very quickly. In many cases, the only solutions were integrated from several other pieces of hardware, and sold by a company as a service, with large price tags as a result. Even cutting down some of the criteria didn’t fix the biggest problem of all – LTE internet access. While getting a product that has an LTE radio in it isn’t that hard, having good software around it is surprisingly difficult to find without caveats or features you don’t need. Many companies, including Peplink, Cradlepoint, Mushroom Networks, and many more, provide an entire set of products around managing internet connections via LTE. The features alone around failing over between LTE links, VPN sharing, signal strength monitoring, etc. are very complex, and warrant the $800-1000 price tags for some of that equipment. After discarding all of the expensive vendors, that left a lot of smaller companies and platforms. Having used many of them at work and in past projects, after reviewing even more of the smaller companies, I finally settled on two front runners – MikroTik and pfSense. I considered several other commercial and open source projects but was never happy with the feature set or hardware that they produced. In many cases, they did not produce hardware at all, and required that you buy off the shelf stuff, which is fine, but once you throw in DC power, switch ports, and WiFi radios, it gets expensive, or requires integration. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/New-PfSense-Logo.png) [pfSense](https://www.pfsense.org/?ref=seabits.com) has been around a very long time, and are primarily known as a firewall product. In recent years they were purchased by Netgate, and have been producing their own hardware. However, you can install pfSense on hardware of your own if you so choose. It is an amazingly full-featured firewall with tons of options and features, and plugins to add even more functionality. However, their WiFi support is complex, has limited hardware choices for a DC 12v install, and very poor LTE radio support. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/MikroTik-logo.png) [MikroTik](https://www.mikrotik.com/?ref=seabits.com) has been around a long while as well, and combined with their [RouterBoard hardware](https://mikrotik.com/products?ref=seabits.com), offers a crazy amount of differing hardware platforms all with the same OS. I’ve written about MikroTik before, and use a [Groove AC as my main remote WiFi unit on Grace](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/). MikroTik offered far more hardware choices that looked good, have an OS that is similar in features to pfSense, although sometimes difficult to interact with, but also had bad LTE support. ***At the end of all this testing, I never found a single solution that could provide the core items you would find in a Peplink router – LTE, WiFi and some ethernet ports, all running at 12v DC. Time to break things up into parts!*** # LTE Solution After a lot of attempts at trying USB dongles, LTE WiFi access points (commonly called Jetpacks or MiFi), I stumbled across a set of products from Netgear that looked perfect – the [LB1120](https://amzn.to/2EVsxmb?ref=seabits.com) is the model I chose. This is an LTE modem with varying configurations of Ethernet ports, and nothing else. Not a USB dongle, WiFi access point that has crappy features, or anything else – just raw LTE radio and Ethernet port, which was perfect for my configuration. It is also quite powerful radio/signal wise. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/LB2120-side.jpg) Netgear LB1120 LTE modem There are three models to choose from, the LB1120, LB1121, and LB2120\. The LB1120 has a single Ethernet port, the 1121 a single Ethernet port that can accept PoE, and the LB2120 with two Ethernet ports – WAN and LAN. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/LB1120_Product_Diagram.png) I chose the LB1120 so that I could have a simplified configuration – one LAN port that connects to my on board router and provides a high quality LTE signal. The LB2120 could work depending on your setup, and I actually tested that unit and had high hopes for it. It has a LAN port and a WAN port with failover functionality built in. I had tried to use the WAN port to connect the remote WiFi grabbing device, but found that when the WAN port failed a health check, it took the port down, which meant that I could not configure the device upstream of it to fix the problem. Sort of a catch 22 situation that would require disconnecting that upstream device in order to add a new WiFi network that I was trying to amplify, so I wouldn’t recommend it for that particular configuration. The LB1121, which can be powered by PoE, is not likely worth the cost, as it would have to have another device capable of producing PoE. If you continue down and choose not to use a remote WiFi grabbing device from the router, then you could feasibly use it to power the Netgear but I didn’t test that. > Note that I tested the Netgear LB1120 on AT&T and T-Mobile in the US. Your mileage may vary with other providers. It does appear that this device does not have world-band coverage, at least in the US, so please review the models and band coverage carefully if you need international coverage. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Netgear-MIMO-antenna-203x300.jpg) A must have accessory for any of the three models is the [Netgear MIMO antenna](https://amzn.to/2EUA3xo?ref=seabits.com), which plugs into the two ports on the back of the modem and helps ensure you have a quality signal. The performance of this Netgear setup really impressed me in all conditions. The power of the radios and additional gain from the antenna made for one of the highest performing LTE solutions I’ve ever used. The diversity radios made a huge impact on throughput, and not having other random features made for a really simplified configuration. Having software that will use the WiFi device upstream if available, and fall back to LTE when unavailable is similar to high end features on commercial solutions. This would be a fantastic addition to a boat network with an existing router, but without any LTE. # Router Solution After testing a bunch of different hardware and reviewing many others online, I found the best router to be the [MikroTik hAP AC](https://amzn.to/2CarT2m?ref=seabits.com). The hardware is simply superior to anything else I could find for the price. It includes a 2.4Ghz/5Ghz WiFi AP, 5 ethernet ports, including one PoE, and operates off of DC power over a wide range. The operating system has a lot of flexibility, and while relatively esoteric and sometimes hard to use, provided most of the features (if not all) of the more expensive commercial choices. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/05/MikroTik-hAP-ac-smaller.png) I don’t understand how MikroTik can make such a powerful box for so cheap – the feature set and hardware rival solutions router makers for your home or office. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Affordable-boat-internet-MikroTik-hAP-AC-lights-1024x683.jpg) MikroTik hAP AC lights showing WiFi active and Ethernet port 1 connected The hAP has 5 ethernet ports, one of which can generate Power over Ethernet (PoE) power outbound to run another device, and one which can accept PoE power in to run the entire router. I chose to use DC power from the boat, and keep things simple. It also has a USB port if you want to try to use their LTE support (don’t), lights for each port and the WiFi radios, a reset button, and that’s about it. The biggest challenge to any MikroTik device is configuration. Using MikroTik’s [winbox](https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Manual:Winbox?ref=seabits.com) configuration tool can help with this, but ultimately you will have to do some research depending on your exact configuration. I have included a basic configuration example from my testing which setup the hAP in the following: - Ethernet port 1 as the WAN connection – this is what should be plugged into the Netgear and is “outside” the firewall - Ethernet ports 2-5 as your LAN connections, protected by the basic MikroTik firewall and able to be used for cabled devices - WiFi radios for both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz turned on with network name “your-ssid” and password “your-password” – please change these! - Basic firewall setup denying all traffic from the WAN port but responding to ping and allowing existing sessions. Your mileage may vary, and I highly recommend reading more on MikroTik’s site and forums about improving security and your firewall. The configuration file is available here: [sailbits-mikrotik-hap-ac](https://drive.google.com/file/d/10Lm94Wr91o7OvnxEtqTTxTcbJNVHAszz/view?usp=sharing&ref=seabits.com) > [MikroTik Groove step-by-step setup guide](https://seabits.com/mikrotik-groove-step-by-step-setup-guide/) # Remote WiFi Solution Having done extensive testing in this area a bit over a year and a half ago, I revisited the various vendors that were part of my tests then, and looked for new ones. Even with that update, I still stand by my current solution for this – the [MikroTik Groove AC](https://seabits.com/go/mikrotik-groove). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/MikroTik-whole-unit-683x1024.jpg) The Groove is a two piece WiFi unit that runs off of Power over Ethernet. It is meant to be mounted outside so that it has a better chance to pick up remote WiFi networks, and comes with clamps and points to make that easy. There’s also an adapter to provide PoE power from a wall wart – I modified mine and connected it to my 12v DC system on the boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/MikroTik-Groove-52-ac-bottom.jpg) There’s one Ethernet port on the bottom with a water proof cover. You can run an outdoor quality Ethernet cable from the unit inside to where the router is. > International users please note: the link below is for a US only “locked” version. If you are using this internationally, you should look for the “unlocked” international version. # Configuration Choices I decided to show a couple different configurations possible with this set of equipment based on needs. ## LTE & Remote WiFi ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Affordable-boat-internet-two-tamales-1.jpg) This is the full featured solution with both LTE and WiFi internet sources available. Port 1 on the MikroTik hAP router connects to the Netgear for LTE internet access, and port 5 connects and powers the MikroTik Groove via power over ethernet (PoE) to capture remote WiFi signals. To configure failover between LTE and WiFi, I recommend reading [Two gateways failover](https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Two%5Fgateways%5Ffailover?ref=seabits.com) and [Advanced Routing Failover](https://wiki.mikrotik.com/wiki/Advanced%5FRouting%5FFailover%5Fwithout%5FScripting?ref=seabits.com) on MikroTik’s site. Please note the example configuration file provided above does not include the failover configuration. Based on how you configure failover, you could have WiFi as primary when a network is connected, and only use LTE when absolutely needed. I personally use LTE all the time, and only turn remote WiFi on when I know there is a network nearby that is high quality, and that I can get on reliably. I have found most marina networks to be slower than LTE or have issues with quality signal ([see Marina WiFi is Hard](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/)). As a result, I have mine configured with the MikroTik Groove disabled most of the time unless I absolutely need it, and rely on LTE. Whichever way you configure it, this setup gives you the best of both worlds with plenty of flexibility. ## LTE Only ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Affordable-boat-internet-burrito.jpg) This is the cheapest and simplest configuration, but also one that many folks choose if you don’t care about grabbing remote WiFi signals. Pretty simple and straightforwards – ethernet from router to Netgear. The example configuration provided in [sailbits-mikrotik-hap-ac](https://drive.google.com/file/d/10Lm94Wr91o7OvnxEtqTTxTcbJNVHAszz/view?usp=sharing&ref=seabits.com) will work for this setup. Given that less and less marinas seem to be providing WiFi (at least around here), this seems like a more likely way for folks to get Internet on the boat via LTE. # Power All of these devices accept 12v DC. The MikroTik can accept from 10-57V, the Netgear accepts 12V, and the MikroTik Groove accepts PoE from 10-30V. I’ve run the Netgear on the boat for 4+ months at widely varying voltages from 11-14+ without any issues, but your mileage may vary. I doubt it is designed as well as the MikroTik – if you’re worried, either run it off of AC/inverter power, or use a buck converter to take whatever voltage you are producing on the boat, and make sure it’s always 12v. For the MikroTik router and the Netgear, I simply wired their barrel connectors into a DC fuse block each with their own fuse matching the manufacturers specs. For the MikroTik Groove, I prefer using the MikroTik hAP router’s PoE port, but I have also used the provided PoE adapter, lopped the barrel connector off, and run it off of the varying 11-14+ volt boat power system by connecting it to the same DC fuse block with its own fuse. # Modularity Not only is this setup modular to the point that you could swap things in and out, but you don’t have to use all of the pieces to begin with. If you already have an onboard router, but don’t have LTE, grabbing the Netgear is an easy way to add it with minimal cost, but providing a high performance connection. Same with the on-board router – if you don’t have one now, and are a DIY’er, the MikroTik has a fantastic set of WiFi radios for both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz, runs off of boat power, has a ton of ports, and can be expanded on later. You can even combine a booster with this configuration and supercharge it, although it will add almost double the cost. You can read more about how to do this in [Best LTE antenna and booster for the boat](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/). # Pricing Here are the general costs at time of writing. LTE & Remote WiFi: ![lte-and-remote-wifi](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/lte-and-remote-wifi.png) LTE Only: ![lte-only](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/lte-only.png) # Comparison While saving this much money is nice, it is important to review the benefits in choosing something like this over a more expensive commercial solution. ## Pros - Less expensive than a single commercial solution - Modular – when LTE category X comes out, you don’t have to replace the entire unit to get the faster access (which is the case with Peplink/Cradlepoint). - Simpler components – if you need to replace/upgrade/change one part, its easy to do. ## Cons - 3 devices instead of one – adds more cabling, power, etc. - Complex configuration – this is not something to overlook. The MikroTik OS in particular is complex and very modular, but also very frustrating to many people. It is best if you have some sort of computing background – this solution is not for those who want plug and play or simple wizards to set things up. If that is what you need, you are stuck paying for a more expensive solution. - Integrated features missing – the commercial solutions have features that take advantage of the fact that they are controlling all aspects of your Internet connection – WiFi, LTE, LAN, etc. – and can leverage that for some really nice features. Some of these can be achieved with the above, but they are not as robust. # Conclusion For roughly half the price of a single-vendor solution, you can build an Internet setup on your boat that allows for a local 2.4Ghz & 5Ghz WiFi networks, four Ethernet ports, LTE internet access, and remote WiFi internet access. It does require a bit more configuration, but you will have a quality solution that can be updated, upgraded, and expanded on without much effort. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in our standard commenting system. Bryan Austin [April 17, 2018 at 7:15 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-460) Steve, I’m really glad I found your forum and your posts about putting Internet on your boat. I’m a self proclaimed “Boating Geek” and have put together a similar system. Peplink SOHO, Mikrotik Grove 52, Netgear 815s cellular modem with the weboost 4G and new Wilson marine antenna with 35′ of cable. I’m going through some networking growing pains as well as some less than favorable AT&T cellular signal strength in our marina. Wifi is current unavailable. My main (first) question is how you set up the cell modem and MikroTik. Are they both left in router mode or as bridges? Seems to me, I can access their configuration when in router mode vs, plugging them directly to a PC to reconfigure or select a new marina wifi. Then I’m faced with a double router or other DNS inconsistencies. Second, w.r.t. DNS, do you leave the MikroTik and cellular modem, and router for that matter to utilize the automatic DNS servers? Or should the wifi and cell modems point to the Peplink router gateway as the DNS? Last, my cellular signal in the marina seems weak. We get 5-8 Mbps. Sometimes we see 20-25 and other times we see 1-2\. Very wide ranging. Speed tests through my boat system are generally less than via my iPhone (direct to LTE). How can I boost my cellular rate? Shorter cable? Different antenna? Really lastly…are you familiar with AT&T unlimited data plans available on eBay? Thoughts? [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 17, 2018 at 7:36 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-526) Hi Bryan, Thanks for commenting! I have helped another person implement a SOHO with the Groove – Peplink’s software helps make that easy since it is very similar across their different platforms. I would always setup any device upstream of my firewall device (SOHO in your case) in router mode. That way you can administer them, as you mention, but also so I could use whatever firewall they have in them as well. That just adds another level of protection. Yes you will be double NAT-ing things, but that happens in many places, and unless you are doing something specialized, like a complicated VPN or some gaming programs, you’ll be OK. For DNS, this is the way I would set things up: The upstream devices (MikroTik, cellular router) use whatever the provider sends to them. That means it will change based on who you’re connected to via WiFi in the case of the MikroTik, and whatever AT&T provides on the cell router. Some would argue that you should configure them to use Google DNS or CloudFlare’s new DNS servers that offer better privacy, less tracking, etc. Unfortunately, many WiFi systems in marinas use a captive portal or other way of signing in, and block you from using DNS servers that aren’t theirs. Some cellular providers do this, although I don’t think AT&T is one. Then on the SOHO, everything inside the network should use it as its DNS source of course, but the SOHO has configuration for each of the WAN connections. You would set each one to use whatever they hand out to you, which in both cases are likely to be the local addresses for the MikroTik and the cell router. So in reality, you’d have, say, 192.168.50.1 as the DNS on the SOHO, and that is what your local clients would use. The SOHO would then have an upstream DNS server of 192.168.1.1 for the MikroTik, and 192.168.2.1 for the cell router, that being their IP addresses each. They would then in turn have DNS addresses they would get assigned to use for whatever upstream. Seems like a lot of hops, but it isn’t that bad. The other thing you could do is add additional DNS servers in the SOHO, which they allow you to do per upstream WAN connection. This is where you could completely override using the MikroTik or cell router and use 1.1.1.1 (CloudFlare) or 8.8.8.8 (Google) which are much faster. You would need to test that the upstream provider isn’t blocking these, but this would speed things up a bit. On your antenna/booster setup – check out the review/project I just posted a few days ago at [https://sailbits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/](https://sailbits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/?ref=seabits.com) I would recommend for your setup: Swap the Wilson antenna for the WirEng BoatAnt. I saw significant gains from this antenna over the Wilson. Reduce the cable from the antenna to the booster to 15′ if possible. You say it’s 35′ now? That adds a significant reduction in the antenna overall benefits. Hope that helps! Aquabelle [May 29, 2018 at 5:50 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-446) Steve: in your Enchilada/Two Tamales configuration, what are you using the port on the Netgear LTE for? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 29, 2018 at 9:38 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-504) Aquabelle: thanks for catching that! I had originally given my configurations funny names, and had three configurations instead of two. I also was using the Netgear LB2120 instead of the LB1120, but after testing found that the LB2120 was not suited for the configuration, and given that it cost more, I removed it from my recommendations. The other configuration missing was the MikroTik hAP AC router connected to the Netgear LB2120, and the Netgear using its WAN port to connect to the MikroTik Groove. That was much simpler in terms of the MikroTik hAP AC configuration, letting the Netgear choose to use the WiFi MikroTik Groove or LTE, but it didn’t work reliably. In particular, the Netgear would shut off the WAN port if connectivity wasn’t available via the Groove, which meant you couldn’t get to the Groove to configure it to use a different WiFi network. Sort of a catch 22. I’ve updated the post to remove that name and make sure things are all consistent! aquabelle [May 30, 2018 at 10:22 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-443) Steve: is there a strong case for the gigabit ethernet ports in our typical on-board applications? The MikroTik hAP Lite is available with ac wireless and almost the same spec, but has standard 10/100 ports…and is about 40% of the cost. I am thinking of CE/MaxSea and networked radar and sounders…. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [May 30, 2018 at 9:41 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-502) Aquabelle: the hAP Lite has one other missing piece – 5Ghz wireless. If you frequent decent sized marinas, I highly recommend you don’t skip that feature. I can think of 3 marinas near me where 2.4Ghz wifi is so saturated that even on my own boat down belowdecks, it is unusable. However, back to your original question – most marine equipment that I have come across, even ethernet connected high fidelity sounders/radars, would operate fine at 100 megabits. I’m sure over time some of the newer stuff will use more bandwidth, and I would steer away from anything that is not a full switch. Hubs and some of the MikroTik stuff can have impacts if they are a simple bridge and not fully switching. Gavin [June 11, 2018 at 6:44 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-434) Hi Steve, Im also in Elliot bay marina and exploring both wifi and cell service antenna setups and determining which route to go. couple of questions. Reading the NMEA guidance on antenna placement, it seems there are distinct implications of placing certain antennas within a certain distance of other antennas. – especially VHF. have you investigated any challenges with placing your cell and Wifi antennas too close to other antennas? I am trying to fit two VHF antennas, wifi, cellular, Radar, Satellite, and GPS pucks within a short amount of space… in Seattle, (I’m T mobile customer currently) but when looking at pay as you go short term data sim cards I have a choice, would you go T mobile for the data sim?) if so, would you still recommend the peplink max transit and specifically the LTE-A model? happy to provide beers and talk in the marina if easier and more fun! 🙂 - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [June 12, 2018 at 5:59 am](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-435) Hi Gavin, Antenna placement is definitely something to consider. It sounds like you have a lot to put all close together, but that is not unusual on boats. The rule of thumb is to separate everything by 3 feet, and not put similar type antennas or services next to each other. So for two VHF antennas, I would space them apart as far as possible given they are going to be using the same frequencies, on opposite sides of the boat if at all possible. Everything else can be relatively close as long as they are disparate services or frequencies, such as WiFi and GPS. Without knowing more about the space you’re trying to stick everything, and the type of radar that you’re using, I couldn’t be more specific than that. I use T-Mobile as my primary provider both for all of my phones and tablets, as well as the boat. Their T-Mobile One plan is what I use for all of those devices, with the T-Mobile One Plus International plan for the data card in my Peplink. That allows for full LTE speeds and roaming in Canada. I definitely recommend any of the Peplink products if you are willing to pay for them. They are more expensive than some of the other setups, but you get what you pay for in terms of advanced and more polished features, such as switching from LTE to WiFi more or less seamlessly. In addition, the Peplink MAX Transit has two SIM slots, so you can switch between T-Mobile and another provider (or two T-Mobile SIMs for more overall monthly data) and many other features. If I were buying anything right now, I would make sure it is compatible with LTE-A as that is rolling out everywhere, and you don’t want to buy something that doesn’t have support for the higher speeds. Always open to a local chat! Gavin Gee [June 15, 2018 at 4:22 am](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-451) Great article Steve. I pulled the pin and bought all this gear: skipping the max transit for now. would love to see your config with both wifi and LTE setup. (if you have this setup). My current question is whether I should set both the groove and the HAP AC router to both be Routers with NAT in place, or whether I should configure the Groove as a bridge. If I wasnt going to setup LTE it would be super simple to have the groove be the router and just have the HAP AC be a wireless access point. Can you see any issues with having both the Groove and the HAP both be configured as Routers? ( I was going to create separate network address ranges so routing doesnt get weird between the LAN-HAP network and the Hap-Groove network) - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [June 15, 2018 at 9:54 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-509) Sounds like lots of new fun toys! I prefer to set them routed for a couple of reasons. First, routed mode means you can have separate networks, firewalls on each of the devices, and know exactly what you are connecting to at any time. Having a firewall on the Groove is nice because whatever WiFi AP you’re connected to could be compromised or have other traffic going on that you don’t want to repeat down to the hAP AC. It is also clear if you give out organized network addresses what is coming from where when you are debugging things. 192.168.10.0/24 is the hAP AC DHCP scope and WiFi/LAN network addresses, 192.168.20.0/24 is the Groove, etc. etc. I’ve also seen bridge mode on MikroTik devices completely hose networks, mainly because, well, they’re bridging. Bridges are powerful in that they usually forward everything from one side to the other. So if you had crappy traffic coming out of your hAP AC, and the Groove was in bridge mode, the Groove will happily forward it out onto whatever WiFi network you’re connected to. If someone noticed, they could ban you, or in many cases, if you are spewing too many packets, advanced WiFi network systems will slow you down or cut you off. Having a NAT means things that are forwarded by a bridge wouldn’t necessarily be forwarded by a NAT/routed configuration. Bridges in general to me are just harder to deal with when there is a problem. Many people worry about double NAT’ing or the number of NATs, and that just isn’t something to worry about anymore. On a mobile device, you’re being NAT’ed many, many times – even on a home network connection, or a marina WiFi connection, you are undoubtedly not directly on the Internet, and are being NAT’ed at least once. Another time doesn’t hurt, and it doesn’t add any significant latency or processing power for these situations. But if you didn’t want separate networks, etc. you could configure the Groove as a bridge, and the hAP AC as the router. I don’t remember exactly how you’d be able to get into the Groove if it was in routed mode, it might get funky if it is not connected to something… The best way, if you want a bridged config, would be as you mentioned – the Groove as the primary router, and the hAP AC bridged. I’d take a look at the CPU specs though, as I think the hAP AC has a much better CPU and more ram than the Groove, and would likely be a better candidate as a router. Mark McGovern [August 14, 2018 at 1:23 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-420) Steve, first off thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. I am just beginning to set up my boat network and this site has been an invaluable resource for me! That said, I’m not remotely close to a network engineer so most of this completely new to me. Your configuration file for the hAP AC was quite helpful. Is it possible for you to share your Groove configuration file with us as well? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [August 14, 2018 at 9:56 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-421) Hi Mark, I am working on an article specifically about setting up and configuring the Groove which should be ready shortly. I’ll make sure to include the configuration file from that in that article, and post an update here when I’m done! Joseph Hardin [October 18, 2018 at 10:13 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-382) I’m a bit confused about the use of the WAN/LAN ports on the router. I understand the LTE modem going to the WAN port. But how can the Groove WiFi booster go to a LAN port on the MikroTik router? Isn’t it a WAN source also? Is this taken care of in the router configuration scripts? Thanks for the articles. Great stuff. Wildly useful. Patrick St-Onge [February 14, 2019 at 8:04 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-314) I got all that hardware 🙂 The Groove was setup as CPE/router, connected to a wifi network. The terminal of the groove even pings google ok. The Groove ethernet is connected in ether5 of an HAP ac and this is where it goes sour. No matter how I change the bridge, nat, routing, making ether5 a WAN port I cant seem to be able to have a proper return route to the Groove52. I can ping back the Groove from the HAP ac of course and vice-versa What am I missing? Can anyone share their configuration? I want people connecting to the HAP ac to have wifi connectivity – of course 🙂 Many thanks!! Patrick Ballard58 [May 15, 2019 at 10:43 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-279) Hi Steve, Thanks for the great write up. I’m assuming this set up can be combined with a WeBoost 4G-X in front of the Netgear LTE router? If the router is located next to the booster internal antenna, I assume it would reduce the need for the MIMO antenna. But what do you think? Thanks! Tim [July 11, 2019 at 2:22 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-265) I bought all the hardware from Germany. My boat is in Holland. I had a couple of challenges and have get to get it all working. The groove was not accessable via IP out of the box and I had to use winbox to get to ithe MAC address to configure it. Also all the Mikrotik routers have the same default IP and since you have the groove and the hap on the same network there is a conflict. I was able to get the IP for one router changed to avoid the conflict. I can now log onto the netgear modem, the groove or the hap admin consoles and have been able to configure them,as recommended, including getting the groove online at the marina wifi. The groove works fine on its own connected directly to,my laptop. What is not clear is how to get LAN Port 5 on the hAP reconfigured to be a WAN port and how to easily switch between the LTE and Wifi WANs without physically moving cables. I was working on the issue for a few hours and have yet to get it working. I can ping and get to the consoles of all three devices but cannot get any internet traffic through the groove via the LAN port. I have read that this can be done by updating the NAT but I have to figure out how to do that. Overall I would suggest that the articles stress the complexity of getting this working as I see others have had the same problem. I’m sure that a network engineer can get it working, but I am software engineer and am finding it very complex and may never get there Anyone going this route should,be aware of the time required to configure the hap and the possibility that they may never get it to work. Sorry to sound frustrated but there seems no way to do this without rolling up my sleeves and digging into the many config settings to try to trace the traffic. Tim Greg Davydov [October 12, 2019 at 4:00 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-223) Hi Steve, Looks like that NETGEAR 4G LTE Modem (LB1120) supports only US LTE bands (2, 4, 5, 12). So how to use it in Caribbean, where all countries supports different LTE bands (3, 13, 17, 20, 30, etc)? So for the Caribbean installations may be better use iPhone tethered directly to the router and use multi-SIMM adapters with local SIMM and GigSky or GoogleFI simm? Bernard BOUIS [September 27, 2020 at 5:42 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-55) Hi Steve, Thanks so much for your articles. Really appreciate your knowledge, but some time to technical for me. I am actually sailing down the CA coast to cruise to Mexico and beyond. I am looking at an economically satisfying solution for WiFi and LTE connections. I was directed to your website by somebody who followed your advices. I was looking at your “Modular, cheaper boat internet solution via Netgear and MikroTik” and looking at adapting it to international setup. I liked the price and I think I can work with the MicroTik setup, but looking around I couldn’t find a similar modem to Netgear that will work internationally. What would you replace the Netgear for international use? If you think you could also update your 2018 article with product that came out lately, I would really appreciate. Looking forward to your reply and advices. Regards. Federico [December 1, 2020 at 6:10 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-25) Hi Steve! I am looking for a LTE system to install on my sailboat. I am mostly interested in the LTE side rather than the WiFi. I am very often far from Marina and I usually fight against LTE signal which is often very low in sheltered bays. The system should even have a low current consumption. So I was thinking to install a LTE external antenna with a Router/Modem. I was looking at the DIY system solutions that you provided to go cheaper and I wonder if there are better choices in 2020/2021? I think the best solution would be using a WiFi router with a modem with SIM to put as near as possible to the external antenna and plug them with the LAN cable. Do you have new advices on these devices? Thanks! Lance Lott [January 26, 2021 at 5:36 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-686) Hi Steve, I recently purchased a MikroTik Groove and for longer range wifi connections am planning to be able to connect it to my Peplink Max Transit (Cat18) (I will have two Poynting Omni-400’s mounted externally) but am not quite clear on the power requirement for the Groove. The install is on my sail boat with a 12V system. I clipped this sentence from this article; “For the MikroTik Groove, I prefer using the MikroTik hAP router’s PoE port, but I have also used the provided PoE adapter, lopped the barrel connector off, and run it off of the varying 11-14+ volt boat power system by connecting it to the same DC fuse block with its own fuse”…. On the POE injector that came with the Groove it show Input power 18-57V and on the ac power adapter for the POE it shows 24V Output @.38A, on the radio itself it shows 8-30V. If I do lop off the barrel connector and wire to my 12V bus it looks like it should work but Is there another or better option? also of note; I also plan to be able to connect one of the -400 antennas to the 2.4Gh connection on the Peplink directly or via a splitter as well for most normal wifi needs. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 26, 2021 at 6:26 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-688) Hi Lance, Unless something has changed recently with the MikroTik Groove, it can accept that wider amount of voltage, which is 8-30V. If you connect the PoE adapter directly to your battery system, it would be providing something between 11-13v I would assume, and would happily power the MikroTik. You can also get a dedicated PoE injector similar to this one from Tycon [https://amzn.to/3iRGIe4](https://amzn.to/3iRGIe4?ref=seabits.com) which take 12v DC battery power, and output 24v PoE. They make them in just about any flavor you want, so you could get one that does 12v-48v. However, the higher you go, the more power it could take depending on the efficiency of the conversion. I’ve used the above unit a lot in my own installs, and those for customers. I’ve also just used the DC power connector with the included PoE injector. On your 400 antenna for 2.4Ghz – be aware that most splitters add a significant amount of loss. Sometimes that amount is so high (1-2dB) that you negate any gains from the antenna, and it might perform worse. In situations where a dedicated antenna can’t be used for both, I would recommend unplugging it from one connector and plugging it in to the other. You’ll need an adapter for the cable (which will add loss too) for one or the other. - Lance A Lott [January 26, 2021 at 6:43 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-689) Thanks Steve. All makes sense. I did order an adapter for the wifi connection so I can just swap the cable over and also purchased the recommended splitter from Poynting. I plan to try both setups and see what happens and which I prefer. My last decision is antenna placement; Either on the mast spreader using more coax or on the solar panel arch which is lower of course but also will require less cable. I am playing with the line of sight and antenna attenuation math now to see if there is a clear winner. In the end I might considering put one in antenna in each location to cover both basis. Any thoughts on this? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 26, 2021 at 9:20 pm](https://seabits.com/modular-cheaper-boat-internet-solution-via-netgear-and-mikrotik/#comment-693) I would choose the location with the lesser cable runs. My experience is that the longer the run, the bigger impact on loss, and anything over about 15′ is not worth the gain you get, especially in a mast or other area where electrical interference can happen. Think of your anchor light on all night, while trying to surf, etc. Shortest is best. Height won’t get you much since LTE towers are rarely tuned to have their power out across the water, and WiFi won’t go that far either. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 2 comments Thomas Willingham@willingham December 31, 2021 This internet setup is much closer to what I’m looking for compared to some of your other posts on the Peplink/similar products. I already have a Netgear Nighthawk M1 that will suffice as the mobile modem. I haven’t seen any updates to the MikroTik Groove, but it does look like there are two newer versions of the MikroTik HAP AC since this article was written. Do you have experienced with either of those, or is there another router you would recommend for dual WAN at a similar price point? Steve Mitchell@steve January 01, 2022 Hi [@willingham](https://seabits.com/u/willingham), There are a bunch of new MikroTik hAP models that have come out. I’ve not been able to keep up with all of them, but the software is the same on almost all of them. For the speeds you’d be experiencing with LTE, all of them would work well. I chose the hAP AC at the time because it had dual band WiFi and multiple ports. Almost all of the MikroTik platforms with multiple ports will allow you to have multiple WANs - its just a factor of configuring the software bridges. Some have limitations based on the chipsets. All of them are more complicated with multiple WANs, and can be frustrated if one or more of the WAN ports change frequently. Their active/standby logic is very basic, so just keep that in mind. If you are not expecting a lot of changes between WAN devices, then it could work out well for you. ### Using an Intel NUC as a powerful boat server URL: https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:48:57.000Z For years I have had a dedicated linux machine on my sailboats centered around remote monitoring and stats gathering. I have a fairly well developed set of tools from SignalK, Zabbix, Grafana and others that help keep an eye on the boat while I am on board and away. I have been using a Raspberry Pi computer to enable this, but in the last few months it has proven to be too underpowered to keep up. My search began for a better solution… # Some History My first boat computer was an old Dell desktop which sat on the boat and used serial boards and relays to know when doors were opened, and when bilge pumps ran. This was in the mid 1990s and was not any sort of commercial product. At one point I seem to remember my BBS heritage coming out of the woodwork, and stringing a phone line to the computer to do dial out calls to my cell phone for alerts. There may have been some sketchy modem-to-SMS gateway involved as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Jetway-boat-computer.jpg) Fast forward to the early 2000s, and having more exposure to hardware through my employer, I tried a series of “industrial” computers that were waterproof and ruggedized (at significant cost I might add) and ran everything from linux to Windows trying to build a better boat PC. I even went as far as purchasing a really expensive Planar touch screen and tried to build a chart plotter on my own. It didn’t really pan out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Soekris-Jammy-with-ATT-hotspot.jpg) Somewhere around that time, I stumbled on [Soekris](http://www.soekris.com/?ref=seabits.com), who at the time made lower power computers on a single board. In the picture above, you can see the one I had on Jammy for many years. I also had several others at our family cabin, in a remote location with a solar panel installation, in a car, and at home. They were versatile computers that took lots of abuse, didn’t get too hot or have fans, and had a decent amount of ethernet and serial ports. The one above is running directly off of my battery bank, which fluctuated between 11.5-14 volts, and had a USB connection to the AT&T hotspot you see in the foreground, plus a serial/USB connection to a Maretron device, or an Actisense NGT device later in its life. Soekris systems required pure Debian and some custom drivers, plus a rather esoteric installation process. But boy did they just chug along – and they had a nice watchdog to reboot when things went bad, and a serial console you could connect to when needed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Soekris-inside-1024x680.jpg) Soekris weren’t marine-grade, so to help prevent corrosion, I used a mix of plastic coverings, sealed cases, and [Boeshield](https://amzn.to/2SMfuXS?ref=seabits.com), which is an amazing product every boater should have on board, developed by Boeing. The Soekris boards went through a number of revisions, from a really slow AMD CPU, to a more modern Intel Celeron-type processor in their final revision. Soekris went out of business in 2017 after 16 years of building what I would consider to be some of the best single board, low power, headless computers ever. I was sad when they closed up shop. I continued using their products on the boat until 2013, and elsewhere I used them until late 2017 when I replaced a dedicated weather station computer that had been running for 6+ years at our family cabin, which was responsible for [nileweather.com](http://nileweather.com/?ref=seabits.com). I replaced them because newer, faster, and less power hungry options were available. I seem to remember this Soekris taking up about 5-6 watts on Jammy. # Other Tries While the Soekris still holds the record for the longest running computer on any of my boats. Along the way I tried a number of other random solutions, some worth covering here. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Planar-marine-grade-touch-screen.jpg) As mentioned above, one of the more successful boat computers, although short lived, was a Jetway system in a ruggedized case from one of my go-to sources for industrial stuff, [Logic Supply](https://www.logicsupply.com/products/by-application/in-vehicle-computers/?dir=asc&order=price&ref=seabits.com). The main computer board was originally designed for car applications, so it had a great power supply that handled wide voltages, and a few other features that came in hand on the boat. The computer was only one part of this experiment, as I also found and purchased a ruggedized touch screen monitor that I intended on using as a full chart plotter and boat server. The touch screen took a lot of fiddling to get it to work with Linux, and eventually I abandoned that part, and tried Windows XP along with Coastal Explorer. It worked reasonably well, but was not as stable as I would have liked, crashing during navigation while sending NMEA 0183 to my autopilot, and many other things. Windows just didn’t seem like the right thing to use as a permanent server, nor as something to replace chart plotters at the time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Solar-computer.jpg) Another interesting computer was the [Remote Monitoring Systems](https://remotemonitoringsystems.ca/?ref=seabits.com) [RMS-100](https://remotemonitoringsystems.ca/e-commerce/rms-100.php?ref=seabits.com) which I had been investigating for my [cabin solar projects](https://seabits.com/remote-wifi-and-solar-panel-adjustments/). I had one of these on the boat for a while, and it was extremely good at providing a bunch of data in one place, much which you couldn’t get easily at the time. This product is a highly customized version of Linux running on proprietary hardware, mostly designed around controlling relays, monitoring current, and providing all fo that data via SNMP or on a web interface directly on the system. They are fantastic for solar and remote installations where you need a bullet proof solution with fluctuating battery and solar conditions. They also can take a wide DC input voltage, which makes them great for feeding directly off of boat DC battery power. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/main-power-graph.jpg) I used one on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) for almost a year, and was able to see my power status and other items years before SignalK and other tools provided this. However, it was a closed operating system with little ability to add my own processes and daemons, so as open source became more popular and opened access to NMEA 2000, this computer became less relevant. # The Pi Years ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raspberry_Pi_-_Model_A.jpg) Original Raspberry Pi – Model A courtesy of SparkFun Electronics Raspberry Pi hit the market in 2012 as the new exciting thing, and were being used in awesome ways all around the world. Given its low power usage, and tiny footprint, it seemed like the perfect boat computer. I started with the first Pi revision which required a lot more work than today to setup. It was great from a power perspective, but it required converting the 12v DC on board to 5V USB power. I tried all sorts of funky ways of doing this, but was never really happy with the result. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-Raspberry-Pi-2-model-b.jpg) Raspberry Pi 2 model B – used on Jammy and Grace As they came out with new versions, I moved to them rather quickly given that the update usually meant faster CPUs, more RAM and better overall performance. Somewhere during the Pi years, they came out with Raspbian Lite, which was a version of their Raspbian operating system designed to be slimmed down and for server-type installations. This primary operating system I loaded on all of my Raspberry Pi devices, including the ones on the boat. I always appreciate when vendors provide this sort of slimmed down OS to cut down on packages I will never use taking up disk space, and wasting CPU. On a boat, it sucks to have to download updates to graphical packages I will never use. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-Raspberry-Pi-3-model-b.jpg) Fast forward a few more years, and the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B showed up, and looked even better. Built in WiFi, 4 USB ports, ethernet, and a bunch more CPUs and RAM. For the last 2 years or so, this has been my primary computer on the boat. You still had to convert 12v to 5v, but the hardware available for that has gotten better – but it still was never perfect. I found a couple of converters meant for car/truck/RV setups that made it slightly better, and even some with integrated batteries to survive a power outage, but it always irked me that they didn’t run natively off of 12V DC. From the power usage perspective, a Pi could be expected to consume 5 watts worst case. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-Raspberry-Pi-ports.jpg) There are plenty of USB ports for an Actisense NMEA 2000 gateway and other connection methods to networks and busses. With the final version, I used both WiFi and ethernet to connect to my on board network. I found ethernet, not surprisingly, to be more reliable – the early firmware for the on-board WiFi chip was somewhat buggy. They seem to have corrected that in the last year or so, however. The Pi is still an ARM-based processor system, which meant that some packages were not pre-compiled and available via normal package management tools. This meant either compiling your own (could be very slow on the Pi) or trusting some other random person’s repository (scary). With the advent of more functionality within SignalK, and even more data available to capture on-boat, I started seeing issues with even the most powerful Pi keeping up. It actually became unresponsive quite a few times, and very high CPU usage. # Today’s Workload My standard set of things running on the boat computer nowadays includes: - SignalK, including a bunch of plugins & apps - Grafana + Influx - Zabbix Proxy / Agent - aisdispatcher - Other low CPU monitoring and custom tools + the Future Lets delve a little deeper into each of these. ## SignalK ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SignalK-running-on-NUC.png) [SignalK](https://seabits.com/tag/signalk/) has become a critical part of what I run on my boat. It consumes everything from all of my networks and provides a “single pane of glass”, to use a dorky outdated networking term, for me to see everything. I can see it while on the boat on my phone, using an app, on my fancy Pi Instrument Display, or remotely via many similar methods. I can check on the wind and temperatures when there is a big storm, or just see how the batteries are doing. SignalK has given me the freedom I have always wanted with the data that is on my boat. My NMEA 2000 network is pretty busy, and SignalK has to process and deal with all of that traffic all of the time. Besides that, I am also gathering data from my Victron system which represents even more CPU cycles that SignalK eats up. With the Raspberry Pi, I was seeing at least 1 full CPU, if not most of a second, dealing with just parsing the data coming off of the networks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SignalK-instrumentpanel.png) In addition to gathering the data, part of the joy of SignalK is the applications you can run via its webserver. I use Instrument Panel the most, which is a great way to arrange a virtual panel of all of the various data you want to see. But that takes more CPU cycles, and can be slow on initial load. I could never use any of the chart plotter or map-based apps with my bus and network speeds and the CPU limits. Many other SignalK folks were happily using these on Pis, but mine was always too slow mainly because of the volume of traffic. With the Pi busy dealing with that, it couldn’t also do graphical displays. With this limitation, and given that I wanted to continue running development versions and adding plugins, the Pi was not looking like a good option. ## Grafana + Influx ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-Grafana-SignalK-graphing.png) A few months ago, [Teppo Kurki](https://github.com/tkurki?ref=seabits.com) released a [plugin for SignalK that would log any/all of your data from SignalK into Influx](https://github.com/tkurki/signalk-to-influxdb?ref=seabits.com), a time based database. You could install [Grafana](https://grafana.com/?ref=seabits.com) on top of that, and have yourself some amazing dashboards of your data over time. I wrote a bit about it in [Fridge Optimizer now supports SignalK](https://seabits.com/fridge-optimizer-now-supports-signalk/). Influx and Grafana are pretty intensive applications, and not usually run on a Pi. Combine the amount of data I was gathering off of my networks, and then even trying to send a subset of it into Influx for analysis by Grafana, and I was really overloading my poor Pi. It was getting super hot, and even shutting down at times, becoming completely unresponsive. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-Grafana-battery-discharge.png) The other big issue was the SD card – if you order a Raspberry Pi kit system, make sure you get a high quality, longer life SD card included, or replace it with one. Some of the kits I’ve seen have no-name SD cards which have unknown performance and life. I usually get a 32GB card from Samsung or other well known vendor. In the last year, they have even come out with EVO-style cards which should have much better performance and life. Grafana and Influx were going to pummel this card to death even if it was a good one – I don’t think SD cards are a good choice for a longer term database and analysis work load. ## Zabbix Proxy / Agent Having started with computers back in the 1980s, and proceeded directly into network and systems administration, I have a strong background in monitoring and management. Even today, I use a suite of tools at home to monitor my house, boat, mobile platforms, family cabin and more. I’m also involved with a number of other marinas/businesses purely for the monitoring and stats gathering side of things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-Zabbix-group.png) For general network monitoring, graphs, and alerting, I have used [Zabbix](https://www.zabbix.com/?ref=seabits.com) for years, and it has proven to be reliable and scalable. [My sailboat network has a VPN](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/) back to my main Zabbix monitoring server, which connects in to the computer on the boat via a [Zabbix proxy](https://www.zabbix.com/documentation/3.4/manual/concepts/proxy?ref=seabits.com). The main server sends a list of what should be monitored, and the boat computer does the work, which is more efficient than monitoring things remotely. I monitor all of the bandwidth, ports, services, processes, and devices on the boat that are supposed to be on all the time. I can see used bandwidth, port statistics, network latency, and much more. It is extremely helpful when testing new devices, and I have found many issues through when monitoring goes crazy. However, the zabbix proxy is active checking things on the network, and does take up some CPU time. It’s not huge, but it is something. The Zabbix agent is used to gather complete performance information on the computer itself, and is helpful to see impacts of enabling more devices on the NMEA 2000 network, and what that does to SignalK. ## aisdispatcher I covered some of this before on my post about [Sending AIS data to multiple servers over a limited cellular link](https://seabits.com/sending-ais-data-slow-cellular-link/) – essentially, this is a program that snarfs AIS messages from a source, and sends them out to various AIS reporting websites. I still do this mainly so my boat is always reported as accurately as possible, and because I enjoy contributing what I can back to the community. It is pretty low CPU, but I always want to make sure it is running. Not only is it providing data that others rely on, but it ensures that my boat always shows up on AIS accurately. I can use this remotely to check on her location, but more importantly, my friends and family use it to see what I am doing and if I am OK. ## Other + Future I run a number of custom scripts and security tools to ensure the server is updated and secure. There are also a handful of other useful utilities including [monit](https://mmonit.com/monit/?ref=seabits.com) to keep things running, and backup VPNs in case the Peplink has an issue, Amazon S3 replication, and more. All of these things take CPU when they run, and with the Pi, they were struggling to complete in reasonable times. Besides these items, I know I will continue to expand what is running on the boat server. As more plugins are developed for SignalK that work with my hardware/network, those will get turned on and consume more processing power. I also expect the open source revolution on boats and IoT to continue driving even more opportunities for new processes as well. # Why not Off-Boat? Several people suggested that I host the CPU intensive stuff off-boat given the CPU/storage/memory requirements, and complexity to setup. This is a long term discussion that I have had for years – I started a long time ago wanting to take all of the critical data on the boat and ship it off to the cloud, or a database somewhere, to be processed and normalized. Then I could write alert rules, dashboards, or just look at trends. Over the years I have realized that shipping everything off boat is not likely to work for many people, especially like me with a crazy big network. I would have to downsample most of the data to something not realtime, and then ship off ONLY the things that I truly cared about. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-Peplink-monthly-usage.png) Grace’s monthly bandwidth usage This approach has a number of problems. First, you have to reduce the accuracy of the data by downsampling. Then you have to choose only what you want to send off boat. If you sent everything, you would need a really good internet connection all the time, which I can’t rely on. In addition, it likely would be so much data that I would use up my LTE allowances. Additionally, if you were wanting to see the data or analysis right away, and you were dependent on your Internet connection, you could be cut off from your data at times when it was down, or waiting for data to get streamed up to the cloud, processed, and then visualized. For some of the data, this does not seem like the right approach. I think my dream of shipping everything off boat is still a ways from happening. The only logical choice I can see right now is to keep it all on boat, and do the processing and analysis there. CPUs and storage are cheap and plentiful nowadays, and your cell phone has a tremendous amount of power compared to a Raspberry Pi. Eventually having an app on the phone that did the data processing and visualization is what I’d like to see, but that is beyond my skills to create myself. Ideally, you would have a low power computer like the Pi gather the data, but use a cell phone or tablet, with a much faster processor and even graphics assisted chips, to do the data analysis and visualization. # The Search So I needed a bigger and better computer. I started by searching for folks like Soekris, and found a bunch, but they were still only slightly more powerful than a Pi. I also went to one of my favorite places, [Logic Supply](https://www.logicsupply.com/?ref=seabits.com), and looked at industrial and ruggedized PCs once again. Many of them were very expensive, and had tons of ports I didn’t need. In addition, they were huge once you got them in a fanless case. There are tons of other smaller computers out there, but they all had a limit in some way. Many required conversions to run off of 12V DC, some had limited USB ports, and many had non-standard CPUs which required special treatment. I wanted something as mainstream as possible. I had used Intel NUC computers for tons of things at work and at home for Windows based needs. A couple of years ago, my main monitoring server at home had been converted to an older Intel i3 NUC that I had laying around. Between work and home, I had worked on over 50 of these little square computers, why not try one on the boat? # Next Unit of Computing Intel came out with the [NUC or Next Unit of Computing](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Next%5FUnit%5Fof%5FComputing?ref=seabits.com) back in 2013, and since then have released 8 generations. After reviewing the plethora of NUC models available, I decided on an [i3 NUC](https://amzn.to/2Tus1oc?ref=seabits.com) and added [8GB RAM](https://amzn.to/2VKJYeu?ref=seabits.com) and a [250GB SSD](https://amzn.to/2tUIHpk?ref=seabits.com). I felt that an i3 was more than powerful enough for what I wanted to do, while also not requiring the fan to be running all the time, generating a lot of heat and consuming a lot of power. 8GB of RAM seemed to be the best price point, and provided plenty of room to grow. I decided to spend a little more on the SSD – you could find alternatives that are cheaper – both for the space, and the performance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-Intel-NUC-parts.jpg) If you are doing a price comparison against a Raspberry Pi, the NUC will lose. At the time I wrote this article, I paid around $460 for all of the components for the NUC. For a good Raspberry Pi kit or parts, I would have paid just shy of $100, so you can see they are not price comparable – but you are getting a significant amount of additional CPU, memory and storage – in all cases at least 4x if not 8-10x. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-Intel-NUC-opened.jpg) Working on a NUC is pretty easy. The first versions that I worked on a few years ago were just like the new ones – four screws on the bottom removes a cover that gives you access to thoughtfully placed spaces for RAM, storage, WiFi and expansion cards. This model has one mSATA port on the upper left which can be used for storage cards and other expansion devices, and RAM slots on the right. The whole system is 4″ x 4″ and comes with a mounting bracket usually used for VESA mounts on the back of a monitor. That is a super compact package and fits well in my Internet Alcove. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-Intel-NUC-components-installed.jpg) Installing everything took only a couple of minutes – one screw for the SSD drive, and click the RAM into their slots. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-Intel-NUC-front-ports-power.jpg) The NUC has two USB ports on the front, along with a headphone jack and power button. I like having USB ports on both ends so I can plug in boat stuff without having to route it to one side. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-Intel-NUC-side-SD-card.jpg) The side has a micro SD card slot, which I didn’t think would be that useful, but it has proven to be convenient. Almost all marine electronics now use these for charts, updates, and other functions. Having a spare SD card reader always on the boat has helped when I have needed to transfer files, format a new card, etc. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-Intel-NUC-back-ports.jpg) The back of the unit has the power connector, fan exhausts, HDMI, ethernet, USB and USB-C. One of the best things about the NUC is the power supply. They come with a 19V DC supply, but their boards will run on 12-19V DC according to the specs. I had seen this a few years ago, and made a mental note in the back of my mind that I bet it would run on boat power with no conversion. And I was right! This was a big plus as I wanted to run as much as possible on DC, and not invert or convert anything. In terms of power usage, this model NUC is supposed to consume about 5W at idle, which is similar to the Raspberry Pi operating at full power. There are a ton of BIOS settings that I have played with, and have actually gotten closer to 4W. I’ve also slowed down the fans a bunch to prevent noise, although I may adjust that in the summer months to keep things cool. If you wanted to get max performance, you can also adjust the settings appropriately, and end up using [15W per Intel’s specs](https://ark.intel.com/products/95069/Intel-NUC-Kit-NUC7i3BNK?ref=seabits.com). AnandTech [did some testing as well](https://www.anandtech.com/show/8986/intel-nuc5i5ryk-review-a-broadwellu-ucffpc-for-enthusiasts/7?ref=seabits.com), and you can get it much higher with a full load, which I don’t intend on being my normal operating mode. # Results ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-CPU-Pi.png) CPU usage on Raspberry Pi This is what CPU utilization looked like on the Raspberry Pi 3 on average, but without Grafana and Influx. Very busy across the board, with idle time ranging from 13% to 50%. Adding Grafana and Influx left it with 0% idle, which is bad, as other things start backing up and suffering. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-CPU-normal-NUC.png) Here’s what is looks like on the NUC with the same workload – more than 90% CPU idle, which is much better. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-CPU-NUC.png) This is what CPU utilization looks like now on the NUC,**with** Grafana and Influx running as well. Still 85% CPU idle. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SignalK-NUC-htop-CPU-usage.png) Overall performance is great as htop shows above. Things are still busy, but the system is very responsive at all times, does not seem to heat up very much, and doesn’t run the fans very loud. I am seeing an average system load of \~1.0 which, while many people debate the validity of that stat, is acceptable to me. Brendan Gregg has a [good write up on linux load averages](http://www.brendangregg.com/blog/2017-08-08/linux-load-averages.html?ref=seabits.com) and other tools to help determine system performance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-mpstat-NUC.png) Taking a look at sysstat data from [mpstat](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mpstat?ref=seabits.com) shows an overall average of \~84% idle which is good. As I mentioned above, the BIOS options are extensive, and I suspect that I may end up tweaking these over time to adjust for more/less power usage and optimize performance. # Marine Grade? The NUC is definitely not protected to the level that a chart plotter is, so that needs to factor into the decision as to whether this is right for you. My Internet alcove has other items in it including my Peplink router, switch, and other non-marinized devices. Some have been there 2+ years and show no signs of corrosion or otherwise. You also have to consider whether the devices you have there will be around in 2 years, or if you will upgrade/replace them. In my case, given how much tech I go through, I expect that most of the stuff I have in the Internet Alcove will be replaced or updated every 2 years or so, and as such, I don’t go through crazy steps or expense to protect things. I also have my boat in an area of the world that does not have massive humidity combined with salt water. That combined with aggressive air cycling using my [Wallas heater,](https://seabits.com/installing-wallas-heater/) and good ventilation plan has left me with a very dry boat. I have considered using [conformal coating](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conformal%5Fcoating?ref=seabits.com) on some of my electronics that aren’t protected, but there are issues with doing this, of course, just like any other treatment. Boeshield and other protectors like Corrosion-X are also an option. # Windows? Could you run Windows on this? Of course, and if you paired with a nice monitor, you’d have a great boat computer. You could even spring for a bigger i5 or i7 processor model, which would likely be more important if you intended on running Coastal Explorer, Time Zero, or other intensive apps. I prefer running a linux server myself, but you could still run SignalK on Windows if you so chose, although it would require a bit more setup work. Digital Yacht has actually productized this in their [Aqua Compact Pro PC](http://digitalyacht.co.uk/product/aqua-compact-pro/?ref=seabits.com) which appears to be an older generation NUC. # Conclusion I think the NUC will be great for my boat given the amount of crazy things I do with my network. It is much faster than the Pi, handles the load for the various things I am doing, runs natively off of 12v (yay!) and doesn’t use too much power. For a more power conscious sailboater with less instruments, I still believe a Raspberry Pi would be a better choice to run SignalK, unless you are interested in development. In terms of longevity, I have only been running this system for a few months, and the summer hot temperatures are coming up. I want to see how things perform in the heat. I am far happier with this solution both for the performance aspect and because I don’t have to hack power conversion stuff to get it to run correctly. It is a compact form factor, mounts easily with the included brackets, has plenty of ports, and seems to be just right for what I need today. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Alan [July 18, 2019 at 10:34 pm](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/#comment-258) I’m just running across this and am curious, do you feel safe with all of your data processing being on one server onboard? I’m fitting my boat for cruising in the Bahamas, Caribbean and then a short hop over to Australia and am currently configured with 4 RaspberryPIs doing different things in a way that if anything goes badly wrong, I can “swap in” a spare or even, in worst case, tear down the media server and use its parts to repair/replace a more important system. I like redundancy, and while I guess you could carry another NUC (or two), the fact that everything runs on one system freaks me out a bit. Thanks for the great writeup! Alan Clegg SV Loafers Glory Marcel [January 28, 2021 at 1:04 pm](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/#comment-726) Hey Steve It’s been a while since you wrote this article, so… How did the NUC hold out? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 28, 2021 at 1:10 pm](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/#comment-727) I have many aboard. One is my main Linux server running Signal K, AIS base stations, Zabbix for monitoring, Grafana and InfluxDB for graphing, and a host of other smaller utilities. That is an i3 NUC that I think was the subject of this article. I have two more that are i7 models, and only about 1.5 years old, that run Windows and a host of things – TimeZero Professional, Maretron N2KView, Actisense tools, etc. Those are responsible for running the boat while at anchor, at the dock, and underway. TimeZero Pro is used for radar, navigation and cameras and is the primary way I navigate. Maretron handles all of the boats many sensors, anchor watch, and all alerting both locally and remotely. I have one other that I use for a media server, and also a few at home. Marcel [January 28, 2021 at 1:11 pm](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/#comment-728) No concerns with corrosion so far? - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 28, 2021 at 1:13 pm](https://seabits.com/using-an-intel-nuc-as-a-powerful-boat-server/#comment-729) Nope. One of these I had on the previous boat, and I think it has been around since 2017\. No corrosion that I’ve found or observed. I think corrosion would happen more in a tropical climate where you end up with more condensation and moisture constantly in the summer months. There are lots of folks who have designed enclosures to deal with that as well. ### A tale of two sails URL: https://seabits.com/the-tale-of-two-sails/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:50:23.000Z This last week I took [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) out on the water twice after a ton of winter [projects](https://seabits.com/category/projects/). The first time was a beautiful, warm day with wind and real sailing. The second time was the [rainiest April day on record in 22 years in Seattle](https://patch.com/washington/seattle/puget-sound-broke-rain-record-saturday?ref=seabits.com), and turned out quite a bit different. I have been working on a bunch of projects and changes on Grace this winter, and I wanted to get out on the water and test the changes, do some mini sea-trials on the new equipment, and actually sail – what a concept! When I saw that Monday was going to have 65 degree temperatures and light winds, I took the opportunity to get out on the water. I ended up doing this single handed, which was also a nice treat – the last 30 or so trips I can think of on Grace always included other crew – sometimes its nice to just be alone with only the sound of the water and wind! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Raymarine-ITC-5-installed-1024x768.jpg) After a quick stop at the fuel dock to top off the tank, I was out in Elliott Bay. Right away I calibrated my wind instrument after having [added the ITC-5 earlier this winter](https://seabits.com/raymarine-itc-5-simplifies-older-st-instruments/). That was a simple procedure of using one of my i70s displays to choose to setup a transducer, and following the instructions. I had to do a slow circle a couple of times, and then head straight into the wind to set the angle. While the calibration went well, I have been concerned for a while about my mast mounted transducer. I have seen the anemometer cups not spinning in light air when other boats near me are spinning, and weird blips of 0 knot speeds when I know there is at least some. I am wondering if it needs to be oiled or cleaned, or if a bird did something to it. I already need to find someone to go up and fix my anchor light and VHF antenna connector. The VHF antenna connector looks to be crimped on, and I have terrible issues with transmitting on VHF. In addition, my anchor light just stopped working within the last couple of months, and actually trips the circuit breaker when you turn it on, so there might be more involved there. Unfortunately, I do not do heights in any way, so I need to find someone I can bribe to get up there and help with those projects. The second thing I noticed is that the paddlewheel on my Airmar DST110 depth/speed/temp sensor appears to have growth on it again. For the entire trip I never saw a reading other than zero for Speed Through Water. I can’t wait until the new [Airmar UDST 800 is more available](https://www.panbo.com/airmar-2018-part-2-ultrasonic-and-em-speedo-mysteries-unraveled-plus-new-udst800?ref=seabits.com) – I would love to replace what I currently have with something ultrasonic. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-Grace-Raymarine-i70s-wind-speed-fast-768x1024.jpg) Performance on the water was really good under sail. Grace has always done well in light air, but today was pretty awesome. With only 8 knots of wind, I was moving along at 6.1 knots SOG. Would have been nice to have that STW sensor about now… I am guessing my wind sensor is a bit off still though, as doing 6 knots with only 8 knots of wind is quite impressive. I guess I couldn’t complain too much. There was hardly any wave action, and plenty of great wind and sun. Anything about 60 degrees F around here is considered shorts weather, so I was pretty happy. Here’s a calming video of Grace moving along at 6 knots under sail – nothing but water and wind noises, and a beautiful view of the Seattle skyline. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-Grace-Victron-LiFePO4-Lithium-Smart-Battery-1024x768.jpg) Victron 300ah LiFePo4 Smart Battery I was testing a bunch of new changes and adjustments, as well as projects that I’ve completed recently. The big ones included [Raymarine 3.4](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-v3-4-apps-bluetooth-find-nearest-and-more/), the [ITC-5](https://seabits.com/raymarine-itc-5-simplifies-older-st-instruments/), [new nav panel](https://seabits.com/completed-navigation-panel/), [PowerPod](https://seabits.com/navpod-powerpod-saving-helm-station/), new boat monitoring systems, new Intel NUC boat computer, and most importantly, a change to LiFePO4 batteries and a new Victron power system. That last one was the biggest change, and I have a [series of articles on the whole implementation journey](https://seabits.com/tag/lifepo4/). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-dead-ship-towing-Chenega-1024x683.jpg) We have a lot of tugs in the area that go back and forth, in and out of waterways, and up and down the channel. While I was sailing back towards the marina, I heard a tug pulling a “dead ship” which is the first time I’ve heard that nomenclature. Sure enough, I could see it was pulling what looked like a catamaran style ferry. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-dead-ship-Chenega-1024x683.jpg) Using my favorite Sony RX-10 MK3 super zoom camera, I was able to figure out that this was the [Chenega](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MV%5FChenega?ref=seabits.com), and as the destination being reported was Alaska, I assumed that it was being brought out of decommissioning and back to life on the Alaska Marine Highway. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-Grace-sailing-home-1024x768.jpg) Eventually I headed home after testing out everything I needed to, and having a very relaxing few hours on the water. I didn’t push my luck and stay out until sunset, although it was a beautiful one. I figured for the first outing after so many changes, and doing it singlehanded as well, it was better to end on a high note. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-Kogo-megayacht-Elliott-Bay-Marina-1-1024x777.jpg) Just rounding the breakwater at Elliott Bay Marina, I got a good look at [Kogo](https://www.yachtcharterfleet.com/luxury-charter-yacht-22338/kogo.htm?ref=seabits.com), a beautiful 235′ yacht that has been moored at the marina for a few days. She appears to have gotten a new paint job, but is the same boat as listed above – 12 guests, 7 cabins, 21 crew. I wonder if her network is as big as mine? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-Steve-rain-Seattle-background-770x1024.jpg) The next time I went out was considerably different weather. Even with pouring rain, I wanted to get away from the dock, and attempt an overnight at nearby [Blake Island](https://parks.state.wa.us/476/Blake-Island?ref=seabits.com). The wind wasn’t supposed to be that bad, and we had just come off of three days of 20-30 knot winds with gale and small craft warnings, so I was ready to go. I again was heading out single handed – for some reason no one was interested in rainy April boat trips… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-moored-Blake-Island-racers-1024x768.jpg) The trip from Elliott Bay Marina to Blake Island was uneventful, and mostly just rain. Visibility was good, and other than a bit of a snafu catching a mooring ball, I was happy with how calm things were. I had grabbed the furthest west mooring ball of three on the north side of the island. South winds were forecast for that evening, and this seemed like a good spot to avoid them. While I was there, a couple of boats in a race slid by very slowly with only a few feet separating everyone. They asked why I wasn’t racing too! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/SailBits-Victron-CCGX-inverting-1024x768.jpg) Victron inverter inverting while I am using my Nespresso coffee machine I spent about 2 hours down below testing various systems, making coffee on the new inverter, and using the boat as I normally would on a mooring/anchor. I tried to troubleshoot the anchor light that kept tripping, but exhausted my electrical testing both at the panel and at the mast step. I think someone will still need to be bribed to go up to the top… I had hoped to break out my [OpenROV Trident underwater drone](https://seabits.com/trident/) and do some exploring around my mooring, but the rain had other ideas. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/IMG_1532-1024x854.jpg) It really started raining, and having grown up in Seattle and lived here most of my life, I think I’m qualified to say it was a ton of rain. I also started getting a bit sick from the boat motion. I get motion sick very easily, and rolling waves from random directions at different intervals not my friend. I had seen similar conditions at Blake many times before, mainly from passing ships, but they usually subsided. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Seattle-skyline-gone-in-rain-1024x768.jpg) Going outside always helps, and it did here for a bit, but soon visibility closed in to less than a mile, and Seattle, which is supposed to be on the horizon here, disappeared. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Neighbors-leaving-for-marina-1024x768.jpg) The wave action was getting really bad now – hard to see in photos. Even neighboring boats were flopping around and making lots of noise. They both left and went into the marina, which I wanted to avoid as I wanted the solitude of a mooring. However, I couldn’t take it much longer before I would be incapacitated and sickly below, so I decided to head home. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Visibility-towards-seattle-1024x683.jpg) Visibility had gotten worse – I had never seen it this bad without it being fog. This was purely low rain clouds with torrents of rain. The picture does not do it justice, but if you click and zoom in you will see the massive amount of raindrop patterns on the water. What you **don’t** see is the ferry and tug on the horizon, and the 3 other ferries moving around. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Visibility-showing-ferry-and-tug-1024x683.jpg) Here’s a closer photo – you can see a ferry on the left, barge in the middle, and tug on the right. These guys are less than a mile away. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Lots-of-AIS-targets-1024x768.jpg) Radar did not help, although I had it on from the second I started moving. AIS was the only thing that allowed me to see where everyone was going, and that a local tourist boat was threading between the buoy, tug, and ferries. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Sea-lions-worshipping-rain-1024x683.jpg) The sea lion appeared to be worshipping the rain, although the cormorants seemed indifferent. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-quantum-radar-tuning-rain-1-1024x768.jpg) It was a mildly stressful voyage back to the marina mainly due to visibility. There were very little waves, slack tide, but deluges of rain. The frustrating thing was that I could never get the radar to tune out the rain enough without losing everything else. I am not an expert with a radar by far, and it is one of the things I need to learn a lot more about, but I should have been able to get a better result. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-radar-overlay-1024x768.jpg) Overlays on the chart page are almost useless at this point. As a result, I didn’t rely on the radar at all, so I used AIS as much as I could, and then listened and watched very closely as I got closer to the higher traffic areas of Elliott Bay. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Seattle-appearing-through-rain-1024x768.jpg) Soon Seattle started appearing through the gloom. I timed my crossing of 3 ferry routes from listening to my favorite VTS channel on the VHF and some AIS monitoring, and made it to the marina in pretty quick time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Seattle-heaviest-rain-right-when-docking-768x1024.jpg) Right before I turned into the marina, the most intense rain showers I have ever seen came through. I slowed down and just watched. It was coming straight down, so I didn’t get wet, but it was an impressive amount of water. Raindrop patterns on the almost calm sea was amazing, and impossible to catch with a camera. We did actually [break a record](https://patch.com/washington/seattle/puget-sound-broke-rain-record-saturday?ref=seabits.com) for the amount of rain that day. In contrast to the beautiful sailing video at the top of this post, here’s one of the torrential downpour as I neared the marina. I’m happy with the two test trips, although I would have liked an overnight somewhere. The only major problems I found are the stupid paddle wheel being gunked up (again), and continued issues with the anchor light and VHF. Everything else seems to have settled in nicely and should provide even more fun while on the water this year. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. David Geller [April 18, 2018 at 10:43 pm](https://seabits.com/the-tale-of-two-sails/#comment-458) I thought the Raymarine radar has a rain mode with an adjustable scale that lets you tune in and out the amount of noise filtering you want to do? Mine does that and we’ve had great results, even in heavy rain and choppy seas. - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 19, 2018 at 10:38 pm](https://seabits.com/the-tale-of-two-sails/#comment-523) It does have one, and I was trying to use it on Saturday during the torrential downpour. There’s a screen shot from above showing me adjusting the rain parameter and it helped a little, but it eventually started losing real targets as well. Perhaps it is the sheer amount of rain that was coming down? David Geller [April 18, 2018 at 11:05 pm](https://seabits.com/the-tale-of-two-sails/#comment-457) Seems to work well! See you on Marine Traffic! - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [April 19, 2018 at 3:09 am](https://seabits.com/the-tale-of-two-sails/#comment-522) Ah good! I am also a mobile station on Marine Traffic, Boat Beacon, AIS Hub, and a few others. That is the AMEC gathering the data and my on board computer sending it up to those services. ### SailBits and Panbo team up for Marine Electronics Forums URL: https://seabits.com/sailbits-and-panbo-team-up-for-marine-electronics-forums/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T20:20:04.000Z For the last year or so, I have wanted to build a community focused on marine electronics, networking and technology on boats. I have looked into different options for doing this, but it is a big responsibility to take on. In recent discussions with my industry peers at [Panbo](https://www.panbo.com/?ref=seabits.com), I realized they were updating their site, and we thought it would be great to collaborate on a dedicated community forum for this purpose. From this we have created the [Marine Electronics Forums, presented by SailBits and Panbo](https://seabits.com/forums/). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Marine-Electronics-Forums.png) The goal is to have a community of members that participate in discussions about marine electronics, networking your boat, electronic projects, and more. Both Bens at Panbo and myself will participate heavily in the forums, but we are looking for other geeks, experts, DIYers, and boaters to help the community grow, and participate in the discussions. There are plenty of other forums out there around boating, anchoring, docking, engines, boat models and the like, but I have never found a good place just to talk about networking and marine technology. Many of those forums have single categories for something that I dedicate my entire site to! And it shows in the many hundreds of emails and comments I get – there is a need for a community to allow us to discuss this stuff. Come join us and help build a helpful community around marine electronics and networking your boat! [Marine Electronics Forums](https://seabits.com/forums/) ### Raymarine Lighthouse v3.4 - apps, bluetooth, find nearest, and more URL: https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-v3-4-apps-bluetooth-find-nearest-and-more/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T20:30:35.000Z Raymarine continues their updates for Lighthouse with [version 3.4](http://www.raymarine.com/multifunction-displays/lighthouse3/v3-4/?ref=seabits.com) which includes a number of new features, bug fixes, and features that we had in version II. There are more useful features and changes in this release than the last few, which were mostly playing catch-up with missing items from Lighthouse II. The most exciting addition is apps for Netflix, Spotify and Theyr, and the promise of even more in the future. > Check out our articles on the [initial Axiom review and Lighthouse 3.0](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/), [v3.1 autopilot goodness](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-3-1-autopilot-goodness/), [v3.2 with Navionics and Fusion audio support](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-navionics-auto-routing-and-fusion-audio-support/), and [Lighthouse 3.3 – radar and AIS plus more](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-3-3-radar-and-ais-plus-more/). # Apps ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Main-Screen-showing-Apps.jpg) This is probably the biggest feature released in Lighthouse since support for the Axiom hardware platforms, and the general rework to the Lighthouse system. The [Bens over at Panbo covered this when Raymarine announced it at the Miami Boat Show](https://www.panbo.com/raymarine-mfd-apps-three-ways-from-drone-control-sat-comms-to-video-streaming/?ref=seabits.com), and [other manufacturers have thrown their hat into the ring](https://www.panbo.com/garmin-onehelm-html5-1-lumishore-seakeeper-and-shadow-caster/?ref=seabits.com) of providing app or HTML based access to things other than traditional charts and MFD functions. Raymarine’s approach appears to be based around the fact that their operating system is running a derivative of Android, which is used on many phones and tablets. Their apps appear to be Google-Play-store-like, although based on [Raymarine forum responses such as this](http://forum.raymarine.com/showthread.php?tid=5136&ref=seabits.com), don’t expect that you can get your apps that way – they appear to still only be available via software updates provided by Raymarine. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps.jpg) The first three apps available as of v3.4 are Netflix, Spotify and Theyr. All three of these apps require an internet connection, so make sure you setup your WiFi connection in the settings part of your Axiom before you try to use them. ## Netflix ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Netflix-Watching-1024x768.jpg) Watching Midsomer Murders in the cockpit of Grace on my 9″ Axiom chart plotter When talking to people about Netflix on a chart plotter, I have found there are two camps: the purists who pull their hair out and are freaked out that you would be watching a movie when you should be navigating, and the (usually crew) folks who think it would be great to relax in the cockpit and catch up on their latest show. I think that is a great reaction – such polarized opinions shows this feature is something new that bucks the trend. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Netflix-main-screen.jpg) Once you login to Netflix, you’re presented with your usual home screen, and all of the controls you’re used to. However, to hear anything you will need to pair your chart plotter with a Bluetooth device of some sorts – I used my Fusion radio. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Netflix-MadMen.jpg) Controls inside of an individual show are very similar to Android tablets/phones, and work reasonably well. I tried to take some screen shots of video playing and the controls therein, but they all came out blank, which I assume is some sort of copyright protection that Raymarine had to add. Things can sometimes be hard to control, such as scrolling forwards or backwards in an episode, and there were a few delays when I hit play/pause and then hit it again thinking things weren’t working. All of the other normal Netflix functionality is there as far as I can tell. Someone asked on Instagram about offline mode and whether you could download episodes while connected for use when offline later, such as on long passages, etc. I haven’t seen that option anywhere in the interface, but I will keep searching. Half the time, I think having Netflix is a pretty cool feature – if we’re at anchor or the dock, and everyone is enjoying the cockpit and the sun, we could flip up the latest episode of Below Deck and see what shenanigans are going on. But it is a pretty small screen compared to the TV belowdecks. One of my crew asked if I could revert back to paper charts for all navigation so they could watch TV all the time, even underway – we won’t be doing that! The other half of the time I wonder how many people will really use it – perhaps in a sailboat with one display it might get used, but in a larger power boat, chart plotters tend to be at driving stations, which aren’t the places people hang out once you’re done driving. Any way you cut it, if you like it or hate it, its a new interesting feature, and I love anything new because it fosters change. ## Spotify ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Spotify-Browse.jpg) Spotify is one of the primary ways I listen to music, so I was glad to see it supported here. In order to use it effectively though, you’ll likely want to pair your Axiom to a Bluetooth sound device of some sorts. I chose to use my Fusion RA70 stereo, and you can read more below about the Bluetooth feature. However, you can also use Spotify’s “Devices Available” feature to send the audio stream to other connected devices like an Amazon Echo or Sonos speakers, both of which I have on the boat. We generally always use the Amazon Echo paired to our Fusion stereo to play music so that crew members can “yell” at her if they don’t like the song. This will allow us even more control over the music from outside at the helm station, and maybe reduce the yelling. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Spotify-Playing-Ambient.jpg) Spotify works just like it does on all of the other devices I have. You have access to your library, browser, search, radio etc. It also continues running in the background when you exit the app unlike the other two apps, so your music continues to play. That is an important point, as it means that Raymarine have had to test to make sure Spotify doesn’t freak out other parts of the chart plotter – we don’t want navigation or autopilot control to stop working because of a music problem! It also is likely one of the main reasons they intend on certifying and testing apps rather than just letting folks download whatever random app is available in the Google Play Store. Having your chart plotter slow down or crash because of some mis-behaving app likely won’t make people happy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Spotify-Playlists.jpg) Navigation is nice on a wider screen, and the app seems extremely responsive and easy to use. I didn’t notice any stuttering or weird behavior. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Bluetooth-Playing.jpg) Because I paired my Axiom to my Fusion, I could also flip over to the Audio screen on the Axiom and see the details on the song that was playing, being shared via Bluetooth data, and control the volume in each zone on my Fusion. Nice integration! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Spotify-Library-space-issue.jpg) There are some oddities given that it is laid out like it would be on a tablet, and some wasted space as a result, but that is a small criticism. ## Theyr ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Theyr-Precip-better.jpg) Theyr has provided high quality weather and ocean forecasts for a long time. I subscribed to the integration that Raymarine provided in Lighthouse 2.x which downloaded forecasts to the chart plotter and allowed you to scroll through a bunch of different types of forecasts over various time frames. The app provided in 3.4 is a much improved version that includes even more options. Above you can see the precipitation forecast for the general Seattle area, and you can move forwards and backwards in time (no jokes about it always raining here). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Theyr-Wind-better.jpg) Wind forecasts are also nicely presented and easy to read, just as they are on Theyr’s website. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Theyr-Advanced-Download.jpg) There’s also a lot of granular control over what forecast you want to download, including the types and time step. Keep in mind that this app requires an Internet connection to work, just like the other two. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Apps-Theyr-Plans.jpg) Theyr provides lower resolution forecast data for free, and offers more detailed ones with a subscription. As I mentioned above, I had the one offered through Raymarine for their charts and weather, but it does not appear to transfer to this new app, which is disappointing. I suppose I will have to cancel that one, and get a new one direct from Theyr. It’s not clear since there is little documentation from Raymarine on this particular app… I did also notice some instability with this app, more than the other two. It crashed twice, throwing me back to the main Axiom screen. Several times it froze and then recovered, and was just generally not as reliable as the other two apps. # Bluetooth ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Bluetooth-connected.jpg) This is listed as a standalone feature, but you really can’t use it without an app. In my testing it is a bit finicky – I had to try a number of times to get it to pair with my Fusion RA70 radio. In addition, once it was paired, the volume control pops up at the top of the screen every 10-15 seconds regardless of what you’re doing, which is very distracting. I’ve [posted a forum question to Raymarine](http://forum.raymarine.com/showthread.php?tid=5172&ref=seabits.com), and hope to hear back soon on this. Strangely, Raymarine is saying that this feature was never intended to pair with head units or to control them, which wasn’t the point of my post. More developing here… # Alarm Management ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Alarms.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/alarms.png) Alarms have been improved – not only can you see a history of past alarms, but on multiple screens and in multiple places, there is an alarm indicator along with a number of alarms, similar to a cell phone app. Digital switching alarms are also present here, if you have those devices aboard. # Find Nearest ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Find-Nearest-Popup.jpg) Find Nearest is a new pop-up option on a chart, and helps you find various things that are nearby. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Find-Nearest-Choices.jpg) There are a bunch of different categories to choose from, and they seem to be driven by the chart you have currently active. In my case, I was testing with Navionics. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Find-Nearest-Marinas.jpg) Some categories have a bunch of results to choose from… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Find-Nearest-Sailing.jpg) While others have very few. This is good to have in a pinch if you are looking for something nearby. Most of the time, I use cruising guides, Active Captain, or plan nearby things during my navigation planning, and there are lots of other tools out there for that. # Chart Tides ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Chart-Tides-Now.jpg) This is a pretty straightforward feature, but a nice one if you are trying to figure out tides and currents over time periods. Essentially, it dims everything else on your charts, and only shows tide and current stations. You can go back and forth in time and see how things change, which is helpful. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Chart-Tides-Future.jpg) Being able to scroll back and forth in time, and watch the stations change, while also zooming in and out is helpful when planning, or when trying to figure something on the fly that you didn’t anticipate in your navigation planning. # Network Dimming is back! This is definitely not a new feature, but rather one that we sorely needed from the Lightouse II days. The ability to dim all of your displays from one place is pretty convenient. Now my two i70s and p70s displays are synched with the chart plotter, which is very convenient. I just wish they brought back the night vision colors which every other vendor in the world has. # Custom Splash Screens ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Settings-Splash-Screen.jpg) This isn’t likely to be a popular end-user feature, but I suspect for integrators and manufacturers it will be important. You can now add a custom logo to the start up splash screen when you boot up your Axiom. # Radar Enhancements ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3.4-Radar-colors.jpg) Raymarine released the[ Quantum 2 radome since the last Lighthouse 3.x release](http://www.raymarine.com/marine-radar/quantum2/?ref=seabits.com), and this version has support for that hardware. In addition, this version allows for software updates from the Axiom MFD to be pushed to the radome, which has been missing since 3.x was released. They also added some nicer color options – I like the one above a lot compared to the previous ones. # Bug Fixes Bug fixes that I’ve been affected by include: - Fusion power off issue – not sure what this is, but I suspect it might be related to my Fusion radio not appearing on the Axiom Audio screen when things have been powered on/off in a particular order, which I saw frequently. So far I have seen more reliable Fusion control in 3.4 - Intermittent Navionics chart networking issue – this also was something I pointed out in [my update of version 3.3](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-3-3-radar-and-ais-plus-more/) which caused connected Navionics apps to not synchronize correctly. - In addition, the [power button issue that I reported in Raymarine’s forums](http://forum.raymarine.com/showthread.php?tid=4814&ref=seabits.com) does appear to be resolved, although it is not specifically cited in the release notes. That is great news, as that bug required power cycling everything to get it back into a responsive mode. There were several others that I wasn’t affected by. # Wrap-Up eS/gS folks who got 3.3 after waiting 9+ months for v3.x will still have to wait for these features, if they even are delivered to that hardware. I suspect items like Bluetooth support won’t even be possible, unless that hardware has Bluetooth – I forget, but I think you could get a remote control that used Bluetooth, so perhaps not all is lost. Apps also are pretty intensive, so the older hardware may not run it well, or Raymarine may simply not offer it so that whole situation is avoided. I would hope not, as Apps are likely to be a big growth area. Overall, v3.4 shows that Raymarine is not just playing catch-up with features, but still innovating on the software front. Apps are an interesting new area that I think we will see massive growth from all manufacturers over the next year, and could end up providing some amazing new functionality. Tweaks to existing features that provide more value and cross-connectivity are also good to see. There are still bugs and issues, and still features missing from 2.x, but we’re not even a year into 3.x and the future does seem to be looking good. ### Best LTE antenna and booster for the boat URL: https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:52:27.000Z For almost two years I have been testing, re-testing, and re-wiring my setup on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) in an effort to find the best LTE antenna configuration. I don’t remember another project I worked on that took so much time and effort to gather data. We use the Internet all of the time while on board, and I want it to be reliable, fast, and easy to use no matter where we are. The search for a good antenna system led to some surprising choices. > While much of the information in this article is still relevant, some of the hardware choices have changed. Please see [Best Boat Internet Systems](https://seabits.com/best-boat-internet-systems/) for up-to-date choices. The goal was to find a setup that allowed for the following: - In good signal areas, provide high bandwidth and low latency allowing for multiple streaming devices and normal network operations - Leverage [diversity antenna](http://www.antennaplus.com/TechCenter/understanding-diversity.aspx?ref=seabits.com) configuration on Peplink for more bandwidth and [LTE-A](https://www.androidauthority.com/lte-advanced-176714/?ref=seabits.com) features - In poor signal areas, improve the signal to allow for basic network operations – WiFi cell phone calling, sending emails, etc. Why do I want to do this? Well, there are a few reasons: Crew expect internet speeds on the boat to be the same as home. In reality, this is unlikely because LTE/cellular is still a bit behind the broadband internet market. However, to a crew member, a wireless network looks the same on a boat as at home. Even explaining it to them doesn’t mean they change their habits. So I need a fast network when we’re near civilization. [Marina WiFi is hard – I even wrote a whole article about it](https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/) – and most of the marinas we visit are no exception. While we can get a WiFi signal from them, I find that in the majority of cases, it is actually **better** to use a cellular connection as it is more reliable and consistent. Again, having a fast network here will help out. When we are far away from normal signals, being able to amplify what signal is available is important for safety and planning. I use a bunch of internet based tools to plan voyages and look at weather, and having access to those helps the quality and safety of the trip. Also, being able to place a phone call in the event of an emergency is also very helpful, although not required. And of course, my [boat network](https://seabits.com/graces-updated-network-2017/) is significant, and I would like to have it connected via a quality connection all the time. SignalK, AIS dispatcher, Victron, FloatHub and many other devices transmit data from the boat out to various cloud and private services. In addition, with my [redundant internet configuration](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/), I wanted to ensure it was always connected not only for outbound data, but when I VPN in from remote locations to check on things. # Base Configuration ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-basic-Peplink-network.jpg) My base network includes: - [Peplink MAX Transit](https://www.peplink.com/products/max-transit/?ref=seabits.com) – both LTE-A and the previous version - [8 port DC powered StarTech switch](https://amzn.to/2CcFfuO?ref=seabits.com) - [MikroTik Groove 52ac](https://amzn.to/2tWn2gw%22?ref=seabits.com) What I am attempting to test and improve is the two red items in the diagram above – the LTE internet connectivity and antennas. The Peplink has two stock cellular antennas that connect directly to the connectors and extend about 6 inches, a primary and one for diversity. The Peplink has one WAN port connected to the MikroTik which can be used to grab remote WiFi signals. The MikroTik is mounted high up outside on the stern radar pole, while the Peplink is mounted inside in the Internet Alcove. The LAN port of the Peplink is connected to the StarTech switch where all other cabled devices connect. The Peplink has two SIM card slots, and I have both an AT&T and T-Mobile SIM active and under test. I also did some testing for a few weeks with a Verizon SIM card. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Peplink-MAX-Transit-connectors-1024x768.jpg) The goal was to see if connecting things directly to the antenna ports on the Peplink, or using the stock antennas along with a booster, would give the best result. # External Antennas Tested There are hundreds of antennas on the market, so choosing a starting point is sometimes overwhelming. Besides the antennas below, I have had over 20 other types on the boat in the last 5 years which I’ve used in various settings. I chose the ones below because they met all of my requirements, and came more highly recommended. - [Wilson Electronics 4G Wide Band Omni Marine Antenna](https://amzn.to/2EIWUe5?ref=seabits.com) - [Panorama 5-cable roof antenna](https://3gstore.com/product/6231%5Fpanorama-5-in-1-antenna-black.html?ref=seabits.com) - [SinglePoint roof mount antenna](https://www.yoursinglepoint.com/product/roof-mount-antenna/?ref=seabits.com) - [SureCall Wideband Outdoor antenna](https://3gstore.com/product/3047%5F3g4g-full-band-outdoor-omni-antenna.html?ref=seabits.com) - [WirEng BoatAnt](http://www.wireng.com/boatant/?ref=seabits.com) # Configurations Tested - Stock antennas on Peplink MAX Transit - External antennas (above) - [Wilson in-line booster amp](https://amzn.to/2VJ0onR?ref=seabits.com) – using all antennas above - [weBoost Drive 4G-X booster](https://amzn.to/2HkNIjc?ref=seabits.com) – using all antennas above plus included model # Test Setup & Methodology Every time I performed testing, I attempted to gather as much data as possible about the environment, and test multiple antennas or configurations to rule out any problems with cabling, gear, and the like. All of this data was recorded in a big massive Google Sheets spreadsheet and analyzed later. ### Test Setup - Peplink MAX Transit routers – both LTE and LTE-A versions - MacBook Pro 2016 connected via wireless - Raspberry Pi Linux system connected via Ethernet - T-Mobile & AT&T SIM cards - No other random devices (cell phones, chart plotters, etc.) connected ### Test Locations - Elliott Bay Marina (home marina) - Elliott Bay and general area - Blake Island, Bremerton, Poulsbo, Port Orchard and all areas around Bainbridge and Vashon Islands - Elliott Bay to Friday Harbor to Roche Harbor, with stops in various places along the way (Port Townsend, etc.) and in the San Juan Islands – two separate trips in summer of 2017. - [South Puget Sound trip in 2016](https://seabits.com/tag/south-puget-sound/) with stops in Tacoma, Olympia, Eagle Island, Longbranch, Jerrell Cove, and many other places. - Many other random day trips and areas in the central sound ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/speedtest-cli-results-Grace.png) ### Methodology Here’s a typical test run: 1. Reboot all associated equipment 2. Wait for everything to “settle” after reboot, minimum 5 minutes 3. Record signal strength from Peplink dashboard 4. Run speedtest on Mac from beta.speedtest.net 5x times, record min/max/average 5. Run speedtest-cli on Linux machine 5x times, record min/max/average 6. Record signal strength from Peplink dashboard 7. Repeat steps 4-5 at least 3 times ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/T-Mobile-Signal-details-Peplink.png) Besides the test runs outlined above, we used all of the antennas and configurations in various combinations for real-world use over the last year. This included trips all around Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands, as well as at home or familiar marinas for longer periods of time. In all cases, there was a mix of real-world traffic from cell phones, laptops, tablets, Grace’s huge network, and the on board Roku. # General Observations ### External antennas help a lot ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Radar-arch-antennas-close-1024x768.jpg) This probably won’t surprise you, but an external antenna mounted high on the boat provided the best overall result. The higher the better, and away from other items that cause interference. The best antennas were the largest – physically – of the bunch. ### Cable length & quality matter ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/WirEng-provided-cable-1024x846.png) I was surprised at the crappy cable included with some of the antennas. Having a single run with no extenders, converters or the like is critical to realizing the gains from your antenna. Bad cabling can essentially cancel out or actually contribute to a negative signal compared to no antenna! The best cable included in my testing was from WirEng. ### Boosters are worth the investment I had both an in-line and standard booster, sometimes called an amplifier, and in both cases it improved the overall signal. The in-line booster provided less of a benefit, and I wouldn’t really recommend them because of the power draw compared to the gains. Standard boosters that have a second antenna that “rebroadcasts” the signal worked extremely well. ### Multi-element antennas not worth the investment I tested both the Panorama and the SinglePoint antennas, and saw very little benefit in either configuration. Initially I was attracted to the idea of a single antenna pre-cabled for multiple connections, simplifying the install. In reality, it made for a heck of a lot of cables all getting caught up, and poor antenna performance overall. It’s better to spend money on two larger LTE antennas than one single antenna if you absolutely need it, which I don’t think most people would. The multi-element antennas had dual LTE antennas, a GPS antenna and some combo of WiFi antennas, and are generally used on vehicles. They also often require a ground plane, which is hard to do on a boat. # Antenna Observations ### Wilson ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Wilson-antenna-768x1024.jpg) The [Wilson Electronics 4G Wide Band Omni Marine Antenna](https://amzn.to/2EIWUe5?ref=seabits.com) was the most marine-ized and came with good cable and mounting options, including a standard marine sized stainless steel pole. The BoatAnt antenna did slightly better in signal coverage areas, but it is not marinized and has some other drawbacks. This Wilson antenna did extremely well, and is my first choice for a good antenna. ### Panorama ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Panorama-antenna.png) 3GStore – [Panorama 5-cable roof antenna](https://3gstore.com/product/6231%5Fpanorama-5-in-1-antenna-black.html?ref=seabits.com) This was one of two multi-element antennas I tested, both primarily made for vehicles. I was attracted to the Panorama after having read about the company antenna history, and was intrigued with having a single antenna with elements for 2x LTE antennas, 2x WiFi (5/2Ghz), and GPS. The antenna itself is round in shape with a fin box through the middle, about the size of a small saucer plate. The cabling looked to be good quality, although slightly thinner than I would like, and was around 16′ long, which was a good length to get it connected to the Peplink directly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Panorama-cables.jpg) This antenna had an individual connector for each antenna, so they could be directly connected to the Peplink’s ports and replace the stock antennas. The bigger challenge was managing 5 different cables, all 16′ long, which became a rats nest of crazy cabling while trying to run things. I ended up zip tying everything together, but it was still a bit of a bear to manage. Unfortunately the gains I saw from the antenna did not exceed using the stock antennas on the Peplink, or at least not much of the time. Even after adding a ground plane and doing other tweaks, I just didn’t see enough of a signal increase to warrant the expense and cables. I suspect this may have been affected by the lower quality of the cable. I did see some increases in overall throughput due to the fact that both primary and diversity antennas were given dedicated elements in the antenna. However, those gains were only where good signal existed to begin with. Overall, I would not recommend it. ### SinglePoint I found out about the [SinglePoint roof mount antenna](https://www.yoursinglepoint.com/product/roof-mount-antenna/?ref=seabits.com) from friends on Safe Harbour and Airship of [Slowboat.com](http://slowboat.com/?ref=seabits.com). They used various configs of this antenna on their epic [Flotilla to Alaska in 2017](http://slowboat.com/2017-flotilla-to-alaska/?ref=seabits.com). It is similar to the Panorama in that it has cabling and elements for 2x LTE antennas, 1x WiFi, and GPS. I was a bit disappointed that it didn’t have 2x WiFi which would have made it a direct comparison to the Panorama, but I was trying to set things up for LTE anyhow, not WiFi. The cabling looked less shielded than the Panorama, and was quite short – only about 10′ which was very limiting. Adding extenders would almost negate the benefits from the antennas gain. I ended up having to do this for some testing because my Peplink unit was about 15′ away. As above with the Panorama, the gains I saw from the antenna did not exceed using the stock antennas on the Peplink. The only benefit I saw was increased download/upload speeds sometimes – this was almost assuredly because of the diversity antenna configuration. To make matters worse, the SinglePoint had shorter cable with lower quality which meant either relocating everything, or extending it and actually seeing a negative gain compared to the stock antennas! ### SureCall ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Outdoor-Antenna-683x1024.jpg) I’ve had this antenna for almost a year and a half, having purchased it as part of my initial internet setup on Grace. It was not meant for marine environments, and it has not weathered well. It has given decent performance in the last year and a half, but was one of the main reasons I started searching for a better antenna. In areas where the signal is lower, the SureCall simply didn’t perform. The mounting hardware is not marine grade at all, so beware – mine started corroding within months. ### WirEng BoatAnt ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/WirEng-BoatAnt-front-768x1024.jpg) I found out about the [WirEng BoatAnt](http://www.wireng.com/boatant/?ref=seabits.com) while chatting with Chris Dunphy over at the [Mobile Internet Resource Center](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/?ref=seabits.com). Most of their site is focused on RV’ers, but they have gotten into boating in the last couple of years as well. They had used WirEng products on their RV and found it very good quality. It is the largest of all of the antennas, beating out the Wilson by almost an inch. It is also very hefty and feels well made. The cabling that came with it is absolutely fantastic – the thickest provided, and with quality ends provided by WirEng. In all of my tests, this antenna outperformed every other one I used. The specs claim a **whopping 10dBi gain** which is double several of the other antennas, and at least 3dBi more than the best specs. Strangely I don’t see the ability to buy direct from WirEng anymore – only a contact form to fill out for details. It does appear you can get them on Amazon, but check the seller and make sure it is WirEng. ~~I would highly recommend this antenna.~~ > I no longer recommend any BoatAnt products due to massive quality issues, lack of response from the company, and jacked up prices (2-3x!) for all of their products. # Booster Observations ### Wilson in-line I have had the [Wilson in-line booster amp](https://amzn.to/2VJ0onR?ref=seabits.com) for a couple of years, and looking at the newest version online, it hasn’t changed much from what I can tell. It cites a 15db gain, which I saw consistently when it was connected. In terms of overall upload/download performance, it didn’t seem to improve things unless we were in a place with terrible signal coverage. In almost all cases, two external antennas gave a better result even in low signal areas. The bigger issue is that it only has one output port, so only one of the two LTE connectors on the Peplink could be connected. This meant that the secondary diversity antenna would be un-amplified, and using the stock antenna inside the boat. ### weBoost RV kit Wilson also owns the weBoost product lines, and they came out with the [weBoost Drive 4G-X booster](https://amzn.to/2HkNIjc?ref=seabits.com) which included the amplifier, external antenna, internal antenna, and cabling for all components. I didn’t care for their provided antenna, and while I did test it, it didn’t really impress me. What I did like was the amplifier and internal antenna. This booster ended up providing the best overall performance no matter where we were. The internal antenna is mounted only a few inches away from the stock Peplink antennas, and the outdoor antenna was a mix of all of the above antennas. With the boosters internal antenna near the Peplink, that meant that both the primary and diversity antennas on the Peplink could use the boosted signal, which resulted in not only better signal strength, but faster download speeds. I would recommend this booster. # Best Configuration ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Grace-SailBits-best-LTE-antenna-booster-WirEng-BoatAnt-weBoost-550x1024.jpg) **Updated March 2019** The best configuration I have tested is as follows: - [Wilson Electronics 4G Wide Band Omni Marine Antenna](https://amzn.to/2EIWUe5?ref=seabits.com) - [weBoost Drive 4G-X booster](https://amzn.to/2HkNIjc?ref=seabits.com) This gave the best signal in hard-to-reach areas, increased overall bandwidth in decent coverage areas, and has performed well in marine conditions. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/WirEng-BoatAnt-mounted-on-Grace-radar-arch-with-MikroTik-768x1024.jpg) I originally started out hoping to only have an external antenna, directly connected to the Peplink – no booster or amplifier. But I found in places with very poor signal, an external antenna alone was not enough. A booster adds more power usage and complexity, but as important as the Internet is for the crew and all of my network, I would rather have a quality signal everywhere at the cost of more power usage. I also have a coupler taped near the amplifier, where the outside antenna meets the inside antenna cable. Worst case scenario, I can join the two together, bypassing the amplifier, and remove the inside antenna and connect the cable directly to the Peplink. Or, worst case scenario, simply turn off the amplifier and use the stock antennas on the Peplink without any external antenna. # Performance I have been using this configuration now for 6+ months and have been very happy with both the coverage in bad signal areas, and overall performance when in better areas. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/04/Peplink-downloading.png) At my home marina, I regularly get about a 25ms ping time, 20-40Mbps download, and 10-20Mbps upload on T-Mobile. That’s pretty good for an LTE connection. AT&T shows a 25-35ms ping time, 20Mbps download and 20Mbps upload. Crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca towards the San Juan Islands, we usually lose signal somewhere around Smith Island, and gain it back a while later. With this configuration, we had signal almost all the way across, albeit very slow 3G for a time. This is exactly the outcome I had been hoping for – something that is super fast and able to handle multiple streaming devices when near civilization, and coverage when in the boonies enough to do the basics. # Parts List It is important to note that you don’t need all of these to improve your connection. If you don’t have a Peplink device, you can still add the outdoor Wilson antenna and weBoost amplifier and gain considerable coverage and improve your throughput. Whatever you’re using now, if it has an LTE radio in it, it will need to be close to the indoor antenna. Many people also simply use the indoor antenna with their cell phones, although you do need to be relatively close for this to work reliably. All of the things in the diagram above: - [Peplink MAX Transit](https://www.peplink.com/products/max-transit/?ref=seabits.com) - [Wilson Electronics 4G Wide Band Omni Marine Antenna](https://amzn.to/2EIWUe5?ref=seabits.com) - [weBoost Drive 4G-X booster](https://amzn.to/2HkNIjc?ref=seabits.com) - [8 port DC powered StarTech switch](https://amzn.to/2CcFfuO?ref=seabits.com) - [MikroTik Groove 52ac](https://amzn.to/2VGKElb?ref=seabits.com) --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Chris @ Technomadia](http://www.technomadia.com/?ref=seabits.com) [April 11, 2018 at 9:58 pm](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/#comment-467) Great article, and thanks for the mentioning the Mobile Internet Resource Center. FYI – we have an article about MIMO antenna technology that explains some of the geekiness behind the scenes, and why boosters and MIMO often conflict with each other. Sometimes – turning on a booster can actually cut your speeds in half! When you have your booster on, you are essentially eliminating the capability of the aux/diversity antenna to pick up a differentiated signal since everything is going through the funnel of the booster. In strong signal area – this will result in a performance drop since the 2x speed mode benefit of MIMO gets eliminated. But as you’ve seen, in weak signal areas a booster can come in extremely handy. The improvements can be especially dramatic for upload performance. Here’s the article – though the bulk is member content: [https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/resources/understanding-mimo-multiple-input-multiple-output-lte-speed-cell-booster-implications/](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/resources/understanding-mimo-multiple-input-multiple-output-lte-speed-cell-booster-implications/?ref=seabits.com) Cheers, – Chris Wolf [April 16, 2018 at 8:27 pm](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/#comment-463) Very helpful report, thank you. For a setup with a MIMO capable router, without booster: would you recommend a single BoatAnt antenna, or twin conventional antennas for best performance? Cheers Wolf [Raul J Pla](http://www.antennatesting.com/?ref=seabits.com) [April 19, 2018 at 11:21 pm](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/#comment-456) Thanks to Chris at technomadia.com who sent me your link. I really enjoyed your article because it is well detailed. I also like to see OTA (Over The Air) testing like this and all the install/cable/radios involved. I design and mfg antennas including the 4G items 700-2700MHz plus enjoy testing many off the market models. About 5 years ago we settled on a design which is very popular now. The aprox 2.3″ diameter and 7 to 11″ length for the 4G omni. All of this type are basic wide dipoles however very well tuned with careful control of diameters and lengths of the radiators. I knew, and later confirmed that the laws of physics always win, when playing against marketing and sales departments. All of these, size and bandwidth will always be in the 1.5-3 dBi (at the horizon where its wanted) even if the sales guys call it 10 dBi. A big factor as you already well know is the cable. Just a week ago a client company was testing my marine antenna and others on a boat, using the included 15 to 20 FT thin and “easy to install” RG-58 type cables. They found minor improvement with that Vs. the blade antennas on top of the modem itself. However, I later provided an update version with a short 24″ cable just to get in the hull, then connect an LMR-400 cable for the rest of a 20 FT run and there was a real improvement. The original cables can loose 3 dB or a full 50% of the signal either TX or RX. Ive included a picture of an early test unit “fat dipole” which Chris calls a beer can. Im using that name now too! This was a marine and RV version done last year. Lisa [August 27, 2018 at 5:42 pm](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/#comment-406) Great article- thank you so much! We currently have a Coastal Marine WiFi antenna (ubiquiti bullet) with a 3g/4G Wilson amplifier, both connected to a Pepwave Surf Soho router. The Wilson amp has a USB modem in between it and the router that accepts sim cards and it is connected to an external Wilson marine-grade antenna. We are in Mexico on our sailboat. We have been happy with set up for the most part but are in the process of changing it. We’re removing the Wilson 3g amplifier and putting in a WeBoost Drive 4G-X instead. We are thinking that boosting the cell signal coming into the boat for all devices will be more beneficial than running it to one sim card and having to keep recharging it. My question is the placement of the external antenna. We have about 10 feet of low loss cable coming into the boat from the antenna going to the Drive 4G-x but it limits the placement of the internal antenna to the length of the cord of it and it is in the very back of the boat. It would be more ideal to place the internal antenna in a more central location, however that would require adding another 10 feet of low-loss cable from the antenna to the WeBoost Drive 4G-x. What are your thoughts? Will we lose a lot of gain by extending it further into the boat? Chris [September 17, 2018 at 3:50 am](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/#comment-372) Hi Steve, This was super helpful as we are setting up our sailboat for extended cruising on the west coast as well. I just had one question… would it be safe to say you use the coupler as a booster bypass for when you are in strong signal areas? Essentially a manual workaround for the potential booster attenuating effects? Thanks, Chris - [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [September 17, 2018 at 7:00 pm](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/#comment-395) Hi Chris, I may actually disconnect the booster in those situations. Boosters have features in them that prevent them from getting into situations similar to what you’re describing, and I have never had to cut it out or bypass it when in high signal areas. What I believe happens is that the booster no longer provides a signal to the boosted device, and the device goes directly to the tower. However, having a bypass would allow you to control that more granularly. The other way I do it is by simply powering off the booster since it is not directly wired to the Peplink, but rather using an antenna nearby. SY EXPLORAR CONMIGO [September 19, 2018 at 4:58 pm](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/#comment-379) I am also loving this blog thread… I am also choking on the $500 antenna… But I am in love with the dam technology + design of it… Maybe WirEng just made a strategic choice— Hey– we could be charging more for this…. lol… And re-packaged the same dang thing… ? Its not far fetched to believe here in the states as it is done all of the time to fool the gullible American public in thinking it is a NEW product… Cheers, Thomas SY EXPLORAR CONMIGO Owen Anderson [April 30, 2020 at 6:22 pm](https://seabits.com/best-lte-antenna-booster-boat/#comment-137) I’m planning to take my sailboat long-distance cruising, from California down through Mexico and eventually across the Pacific and onwards. Do you have any suggestions or pointers to resources for how to choose connectivity options that will maximize international compatibility? I don’t want to invest a lot of money in a system that ends up only working in the US and maybe Mexico. ### Nemo gateway - easy NMEA networking for your boat URL: https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:28:51.000Z Connecting marine electronics together is an important goal for modern boaters. Many different ways exist to do this, but most require gateways or direct connections to larger equipment. Once you have them connected, configuration and being able to use all the data effectively from as many devices as possible is usually the next challenge. The [Nemo gateway](http://www.rosepoint.com/nemo-gateway/?ref=seabits.com) from [Rose Point](http://www.rosepoint.com/?ref=seabits.com) is an easy way to connect everything together, while also easily providing high quality, frequent data to a number of sources. Rose Point is one of my favorite manufacturers because of [Coastal Explorer](http://www.rosepoint.com/coastal-explorer/?ref=seabits.com). I’ve used it [since 2007](https://seabits.com/coastal-explorer/), and I think it is the best PC navigation software you can buy. They have a great relationship with their customers, and a very open way of doing development that other manufacturers should really try to emulate. When I heard they had developed a gateway product, I was very interested in it given their reputation. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-gateway-unbox-top-768x1024.jpg) # Hardware The Nemo hardware is a thing of beauty. It is a well milled piece of metal with some heft to it. All of the connectors are removable terminal blocks which make it easy when wiring. It can accept a wide DC input voltage of 8-32v, and draws 0.2 amp at 12v, and 0.1 amp at 24v – nice for us sailboaters with smaller power reserves. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-gateway-nema-2000-power-1024x768.jpg) On one side you have a NMEA 2000 port and power, as well as a USB accessory port for a Rose Point GPS system if you have one. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-gateway-ethernet-0183-1024x768.jpg) On the other side is a bevy of NMEA 0183 connections and an ethernet port. For 0183, you have two talkers and 4 listeners. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-gateway-connectors-1024x768.jpg) I ended up connecting my VHF radio to the Nemo since it only has NMEA 0183. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-gateway-connector-block-1024x768.jpg) Removable terminal blocks are great to get the fiddly little undersized wires used in NMEA 0183 securely connected and working. # Setup ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-Sensors-1024x653.png) One of the more interesting things about the gateway is how easy it is to setup. After initial connections to my NMEA networks and power, I was immediately able to connect to it and see sensors and data flowing correctly. This is seriously one of the quickest configurations that I’ve ever had for a marine gateway or other similar device. Most of them require defining all sorts of things before any data even flows, or require other hardware/software to get started. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-Settings-menu.png) I initially accessed the Nemo via its built in webserver, but you can also use Coastal Explorer (more on that below) or Android or iOS apps. It has the usual settings you would expect – networking, firmware updates, security options, etc. plus a lot more for the actual devices connected to it. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-Settings-Security-Settings-1024x445.png) One thing that is nice is the ability to set a password. You’d be surprised how many marine electronics have static, crappy passwords, or none at all. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-Sensors-ordering-1024x721.png) You can change just about anything you could need – in the example above, if you have two position sensors, you can drag them into the order you would prefer or disable individual ones. Clearly the Nemo designers thought a lot about user experience – the device is quick to get going, easy to use through a web browser, and doesn’t require clunky software. # Coastal Explorer Integration ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-autoconfigured-in-Coastal-Explorer-1024x653.png) One of the best features of the Nemo gateway is the ability for it to automatically configure itself inside Coastal Explorer. To start, make sure your computer is on the same network as the Nemo, turn it on, and open up Coastal Explorer. If you have a modern version of CE, it will detect the Nemo on the network, auto-configure, and you’re ready to go! In Settings under Electronics, you’ll see the Rose Point Nemo Gateway automatically configured and working in the list of devices. In my case, you can see a Vesper AIS device and [iKommunicate](https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/) which I also had configured. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-NMEA-2000-devices-645x1024.png) You can interact with the gateway directly from Coastal Explorer. It looks like Rose Point have wrapped the entire web interface for the device inside of CE which allows you to do anything you could do directly on the webserver without leaving the program. This makes for a seamless experience in one place, which is nice if you are a heavy Coastal Explorer user. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Coastal-Explorer-with-Nemo-sending-data-1024x653.png) I have found the frequency of data from the Nemo to be much higher than all other gateways and products I’ve used in the past. Part of this is because of the way they send the data out from the gateway – something called [multicast](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multicast?ref=seabits.com). Most devices have services that wait for your computer to connect to them, negotiate some bits, and then the two happily talk to each other without bothering anyone else (commonly called [unicast](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unicast?ref=seabits.com)). Multicast means that the Nemo gateway is sending out all of the data from all of your devices to your network, all the time, for every device to consume. This is the default configuration, and makes it easy for you to get started using the gateway. It also allows other apps to immediately start consuming the data without much configuration. # Deeper Configuration ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-main-menu-1024x904.png) Whether you use Coastal Explorer or a web browser to interact with the Nemo, there are a wealth of settings and screens to interact with. Not only can you configure the device, but the depth of information you can see on the network, devices, and data is amazing. I actually use the Nemo gateway as a debug tool when working on my NMEA networks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-NMEA-2000-devices-1024x572.png) The NMEA 2000 Network detail page shows all of the connected devices on your network and their status indicated by a little dot – whether they have been active on the network recently. This has been great when I have been hacking on my network to make sure everything is still powered up and connected. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-NMEA-2000-device-detail-Raymarine-lots-of-data-1024x572.png) Here’s where my geek gets even more excited – the amount of data, presented in a usable fashion, without complex PC programs or debug stuff, is simply excellent. You can see above my Raymarine Axiom chart plotter and all of the types of data it is sending. The data itself is not decoded, as I suspect that would require a lot of custom formulas and conversion, but I can see that the chart plotter is sending what I would expect it to send. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-NMEA-2000-device-detail-1024x572.png) Here’s another example showing my Maretron depth, speed, and temp sensor. You can see the identified PGNs that the Nemo has highlighted in bold, and the data changes as fast as it is coming through the gateway, which shows you that things are working / being transmitted. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-NMEA-0183-data-from-VHF-1024x453.png) Similarly, NMEA 0183 also shows all of the sentences coming into the gateway. Above, you can see my VHF radio sending AIS data into the gateway. In the case of NMEA 0183, sentences aren’t decoded, but having lived in that world for years, I know that [AIVDM](http://catb.org/gpsd/AIVDM.html?ref=seabits.com) are AIS target updates from various ships. Most helpful with 0183 is the fact that you can see data flowing through, knowing that you got your wiring correct, and that baud rates at both ends are setup correctly. # NMEA 0183 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-NMEA-0183-repeating1-1024x893.png) NMEA 0183, while quite old, is still present on many boats. I have a VHF radio that still uses it, and I want its data on all of my networks. With the Nemo gateway, you have 2x talker ports and 4x listeners that you can leverage for that older equipment, which is quite a bit more than I’ve ever seen on a single gateway product. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-NMEA-0183-over-UDP-1024x571.png) For mobile apps that need NMEA 0183 over your ethernet network, like iNavX, NMEAremote and others, you can configure NMEA 0183 over UDP. This sends out a UDP stream of NMEA 0183 data on port 10110 that you can use with other apps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-NMEA-0183-over-UDP-talker-options-675x1024.png) Beyond just turning it on, you can choose what sentences you want sent out over UDP and adjust many other parameters. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Nemo-web-interface-NMEA-0183-over-UDP-talker-options-manual-sentences-823x1024.png) Besides the different sentences, you can change the frequency at which they’re sent, the source of the data, or completely turn them off. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-gateway-talker-options-identifier.png) First, you can choose the sentence you want to generate, and there is a pretty extensive list to choose from. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-gateway-talker-options-talker-ID-1024x902.png) Next, you can choose the talker ID that the data should show up from – this is an option I have very rarely seen on any other gateway without advanced configuration. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-gateway-talker-options-source-1015x1024.png) You can choose the source for the data itself, if you have multiple devices that generate the same type. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-gateway-talker-options-rate.png) Finally, you can choose the frequency for updates in quite a wide set of options. Many other gateways that I’ve used have some of these features, but they require absolutely terrible PC software (usually does not work on Mac) or adapters, or esoteric understanding about sentence names and types to configure. Rose Point have made their gateway not only supremely configurable, but usable by anyone. Clearly their attention to user experience and design from products like Coastal Explorer have flowed into the Nemo. # Mobile App There are Android and iOS apps for the Nemo gateway which allow you to interact with the gateway without using a web browser. I’ve used it for quick debugging on my network while away from the computer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-igateway-OS-app-1-ports-main-screen-474x1024.jpg) The interface is a carbon copy of the web interface, which makes it easy to transition between one or the other. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-igateway-OS-app-maretron-specific-data-474x1024.jpg) Just like with the web interface, I can see data flowing in from my depth sensor, but in this case, I can see it quickly on my phone. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-igateway-OS-app-nmea-0183-data-474x1024.jpg) Checking on NMEA 0183 data while configuring my VHF radio… # Gateway One of the most important parts of a gateway is to be able to unify the different networks together, and the Nemo doesn’t disappoint here either. Devices on NMEA 0183 can send things to the gateway, which are sent through to NMEA 2000 and vise versa. With the options above for granular control over sentence generation on NMEA 0183, you have a lot of flexibility as to what you’d like to send where, from where, and how frequently. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-gateway-heading-sensor-priority.png) In addition, if you have multiple sensors for Depth, Heading, Position or Speed, you can create a prioritized list of the available sensors so that the one you consider best is used first. In the event that the primary fails, secondary items are used. I have at least 3 heading sensors (Raymarine chart plotter, Raymarine autopilot, AIS) and multiple position sensors (Raymarine chart plotter, AIS, VHF) and this allows me to make sure the one I trust the most is used if it is on and functioning. # Local Network & Apps While a gateways primary purpose is to unify NMEA 0183 and 2000 and provide granularity there, the Nemo also goes one step further and spits all of its data out onto the local network. In todays connected world, it is expected that any network boating device does something to share its data with computers and apps. As covered above, it of course works with Coastal Explorer, but also sends out a UDP stream to port 10110 that devices can consume. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/OpenCPN-using-Nemo-Gateway-UDP-1024x597.png) I used a bunch of different applications including TimeZero Navigator, OpenCPN, and SeaNav US on my PC and Mac systems. All were easily configured and immediately started showing data. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/iNavX-receiving-Nemo-gateway-data-473x1024.jpg) For apps, I’ve used NMEAremote, iNavX, SeaNav US, and a number of others. All were very easy to configure, and worked well. The Nemo would be a great way to have high quality, rapid updating data for PC or tablet navigation as well. The multicast stream and adjustable update rates for specific data types makes the experience more customizable depending on what you are doing – I could see racing folks liking the high frequency updates for performance information, and tuning down the non-essential stuff. # Support One factor in anything I use on my boat is how well it is supported. I look for products that have support included as part of the purchase for a decent length of time, as well as active, open forums or other similar communication methods. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/03/Nemo-forums-1024x428.png) Rose Point has always had a great community behind Coastal Explorer, and that continues with Nemo. The same [forum system](https://www.coastalexplorer.net/forums/support/topics?ref=seabits.com) used for CE is available for Nemo, and has helpful people responding both from Rose Point, and end users. In addition, while I was testing my Nemo unit, I had some weird things going on with one of my Raymarine autopilot components, and Rose Point support was super helpful, very responsive, and got to the root of a rather detailed problem as quickly as I would have expected. It turned out to be something wrong with my network, not their product, but their technical expertise both with their product, and the devices surrounding it was impressive. Thanks to Marius, Garth, and Chris for their help! # Comparisons Gateways (sometimes also called Multiplexers) have been around for a long while. I remember using NMEA 0183 only devices in the early 2000s, and even had a [ShipModul brand back in 2007](https://seabits.com/shipmodul-nmea-multiplexer/) that allowed 0183 stuff to talk together. Actisense has been one of the biggest names doing 0183 to 2000 conversion, and their NGW-1 is quite popular. However, this requires PC software to configure, and only allows one NMEA 0183 device to connect to the NMEA 2000 network. This solution is around $230\. You could combine multiple NMEA 0183 devices with an upstream device, but you’d probably end up paying $200 more for that, and have two different pieces of hardware to manage, and no granularity between who hears/sees what. In addition, this device has none of the WiFi / local network connectivity features at all. Yacht Devices has a similar product in the [YDNG-02](http://www.yachtd.com/products/nmea0183%5Fgateway.html?ref=seabits.com) for $149, but it is also a single NMEA 0183 device, has less configurability, and has no local network features either. [iKommunicate](https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/), which I am a big fan of because of my love of [SignalK](https://seabits.com/tag/signalk/), sells for $300, and has more NMEA 0183 talkers and listeners than the above devices, but still falls short of the Nemo Gateway. It also has extremely limited configuration options for what flows between networks and configuring sentences on NMEA 0183 – it would require a lot of work to even get close to the functionality and ease of use in the Nemo. It also has not gotten many updates since its release, which is a bit worrisome. Using a chart plotter is also an option to connect NMEA 0183 and 2000 together. Most of the main manufacturers have at least one NMEA 0183 input and output, some have a few more. The challenge for most configs is cabling length from the 0183 devices to the chart plotter, and the limited configuration options. Most only allow you to connect a VHF radio or AIS device, and have limited control over the sentences that come and go between them. There are forum posts filled with people trying to decode what chart plotters allow through or translate back and forth. You also still have the limitation of only one or two NMEA 0183 devices, and most chart plotters don’t stream data out to other devices very well. The [Nemo Gateway sells for $699](http://coastalexplorer.net/products/51232?ref=seabits.com), and while that is a higher price compared to the above, you are getting a clearly premium product combining multiple of the items above. You don’t have to have programming level experience to get it going, buy additional software or adapters to configure it, and can use it from just about anything without a lot of effort. I personally am willing to pay more for something that is more usable and reliable, and gives me more time to spend on the water. # Summary If you need a gateway on your boat to unify NMEA 0183 and NMEA 2000, or you need a device to allow computers and apps to consume data from your existing network, I would highly recommend the [Nemo Gateway](http://www.rosepoint.com/nemo-gateway/?ref=seabits.com). If you have more than two NMEA 0183 devices, you definitely should look at the Nemo, as it is one of the only devices out there that can handle multiple connections with extended configuration. If you are a Coastal Explorer user, it also would be an essential add-on that provides a high quality data stream to multiple PCs around your boat. It is easy to configure, has more options that most gateways I have seen, doesn’t require expensive software or hardware to use, and is extremely well built and designed. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. [Never for Ever](http://neverforever.ca/?ref=seabits.com) [March 15, 2018 at 2:47 pm](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/#comment-472) How about a summary for beginners? I am just trying to get into marine networking and find it all a bit byzantine. It reminds mea bit of the old coax networks. I have an old e80 char plotter with ST60 instruments (which i believe are NMEA 0183 although they are called Seatalk) and AIS being fed by my Standard Horizon VHF. Would something like NEMO be appropriate to act as a bridge to more modern devices like my laptop or tablet? I love you posts even though I only understand about half of them 🙂 Aquabelle [April 28, 2018 at 6:09 pm](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/#comment-517) I was about to purchase iKommunicate when I came across this excellent writeup. NEMO is clearly superior if one doesn’t need the SignalK dimension (I don’t). BUT I want to use TimeZero (Maxsea/Nobeltec)….did you get to the bottom of the issue with doing this you found?? Paul Greenhalgh [February 10, 2019 at 3:42 pm](https://seabits.com/nemo-gateway-easy-nmea-networking-for-your-boat/#comment-321) Hi Steve: well my NEMO finally arrived…but I have a problem! I connected it via ethernet to my Mikrotik router, to which my Furuno NavNet3D MFD is also connected, as is a Furuno network radar and my laptop (running TZ Navigator, not CE). In this setup, the Furuno MFD must be the DHCP master and the laptop uses a static IP address. Anyway, NEMO is giving me a Green ‘Heartbeat’ LED and its manual says this means ‘connecting to network’; the LED never becomes solid. When I try to use my Android phone with the NEMO app to connect wirelessly to the router and then into NEMO, it doesn’t Discover NEMO….hardly surprising since the LED is telling me NEMO hasn’t connected to the network. Any suggestions for what I might be doing wrong?? thanks and regards Aquabelle --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 2 comments ellipsis@ellipsis December 01, 2024 I really need my NEMO to bridge NMEA2000 over ethernet to Signal K (like it does Coastal Explorer). I have not found the port or settings to make this connection work with Signal K or other. Does NEMO support canboat or canboatjs? I was led to understand the 2024 firmware might and/or allow for creating custom 0183 sentences from NMEA2000 data as 0183 lacks so many desired data definitions e.g. weather, etc. Just hoping NEMO will do more than output the limited 0183 sentences over UDP. Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 December 04, 2024 Do you have any details on the firmware that was supposed to support this? As far as I know, the Nemo only supports 0183 sentences over a TCP port or UDP. While you’d get a lot of the info from your NMEA 2000 network, it wouldn’t be all of it as you outline. ### Lighthouse 3.3 - radar and AIS plus more URL: https://seabits.com/lighthouse-3-3-radar-and-ais-plus-more/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T20:36:10.000Z Raymarine continue to come out with updates to Lighthouse v3 that include new features and bring forward items from v2\. Version 3.3 was released a few weeks ago, and includes support for older eS and gS series MFDs, Navionics Plotter Sync, and new features around radar and sonar. Raymarine has more details on their [v3.3 page](http://www.raymarine.com/multifunction-displays/lighthouse3/v3-3/?ref=seabits.com). > Check out our articles on the [initial Axiom review and Lighthouse 3.0](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/), [v3.1 autopilot goodness](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-3-1-autopilot-goodness/), and [v3.2 with Navionics and Fusion audio support](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-navionics-auto-routing-and-fusion-audio-support/), and the [latest on v3.4 with apps like Netflix, Spotify, bluetooth support and more](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-v3-4-apps-bluetooth-find-nearest-and-more/). # eS and gS support ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Raymarine-Lighhouse-3.3-eS75-upgrading-1024x768.jpg) One of the most waited for items was Lighthouse v3 support for the older eS and gS model chart plotters. I upgraded my eS75 to v3.3 by downloading the ISO and dumping it onto an SD card. It took a bit for the upgrade to complete, but it was pretty painless. It was somewhat disappointing that only eS and gS models are supported, but that is still quite a breadth of hardware. Many other electronics don’t provide support for that many years in the past – you only have to look at the cell phone and computing industry to see what I mean. My eS75 runs good with v3.3\. It is not as fast as my Axiom, but that is not surprising. I haven’t noticed any issues so far. # Navionics Plotter Sync ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Navionics-chart-updates-Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.3-sync-found.png) I have missed this feature, and am glad to see it was added back to 3.x. I routinely used this with 2.x to update my charts, as well as to sync routes I built on my phone or iPad prior to a trip. With the Axiom not having a front accessible SD card, the chart updates feature is pretty critical to keeping Navionics up to date. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Navionics-chart-updates-Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.3-sync-failed.png) It did fail at least once every time I’ve tried it, so there is some work to be done. # Radar ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.3-radar-target-settings-trails-1024x615.jpg) The radar features have the most updates that I liked. Under settings, you can now add trails which make it very easy to see the past track of targets. You can adjust the length of time for the trails in case you want longer history. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.3-radar-target-settings-AIS-vectors-history-1024x615.jpg) In addition to trails, you can also add vectors for AIS targets and history for targets. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.3-radar-AIS-settings-1024x615.jpg) The best feature in my opinion is the ability to add AIS tracked targets to the radar overlay. You can adjust what to show in terms of AIS ships, as well as hide static items. Combine this with trails and history, and you have even more situational awareness of whats around you. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.3-radar-AIS-target-overlay-2-1024x615.jpg) Here’s all of those features enabled at once. You can see AIS ships, blue lines indicating their projected path, and radar echoes and trails under some of the ships as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.3-radar-target-popup-1024x615.jpg) If you designate items as targets using the popup menu, you’ll get even more contextual information on the screen as seen below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.3-radar-targets-data-1024x615.jpg) You can see that I marked a couple as targets, and it is now displaying their speed and course. There are two vector lines on both of the targets – I assume one is from AIS, and the other is from the radar side. You’ll also notice there are some ghost markers behind the ship on the left – I’m not 100% sure why there are two “1” markers, one with a solid circle and one with dotted lines. I assume that has something to do with the radar “losing” the contact yet there is still one over the actual contact? I’ll have to experiment more to see what happens. Nevertheless, these features make radar even more usable and helpful when trying to navigate through busy waters. I love how they combined different types of data instead of keeping them on their own dedicated screens – having it all in one place lets you customize it and have better awareness of what is around you. # Other Updates Quantum radars are now upgradable via the MFD, which I have been waiting for. Up until v3.3 my radar has been highly unreliable with 3.x due to WiFi disconnect problems. It seems to have gotten better, and I would not be surprised if there is a software upgrade for the radar coming soon, which I will actually be able to perform with this feature being added back to 3.x. There are a bunch of new sonar updates. I don’t use any of the sonar features but they do look pretty interesting. You can also display system input voltage as an overlay on a chart or other screen. That is interesting, but not as useful to me as battery voltage, which was already there. It is great to see the rapid pace of new features and updates, and I look forward to even more in the next few months. ### Portable lithium jump starter for the sailboat URL: https://seabits.com/portable-lithium-jump-starter-sailboat/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:55:36.000Z I made a conscious decision during [power system upgrade](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/) to have a single battery bank of 3x Firefly 100 amp hour batteries for both my house and starting needs on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace). Space on any sailboat, including mine, is always limited. Adding a third battery, and upsizing them all on top of that, left little room for a dedicated starting battery. I had run [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy) this way for many years and had been much happier having the extra amp hours to use for house loads. However this means that I could face the dreaded situation of having house loads deplete the bank enough that I could not start the engine. With my system, I have so much instrumentation – MasterVolt panel and alarms, Balmar panel and alarms, iKommunicate and SignalK monitoring, and displays at the nav table, on my phone, and of course alarms and displays at my MFD – that it would be unlikely that I wouldn’t know when we reached a critical point, and be able to take action. Nevertheless, I believe in being prepared for every eventuality or emergency while on the water. Say, perhaps, silencing all of the alarms after a late night with cocktails, and falling asleep while the batteries happily discharge away to 0… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/NOCO-Genius-Boost-1024x683.jpg) I carry a [NOCO Genius Boost](https://amzn.to/2Ca6nLb?ref=seabits.com) jump starter to ensure I won’t end up dead in the water. Lithium battery technology has resulted in a super compact package that gives me around 20 chances to start even if my entire battery bank is dead. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/NOCO-Genius-Boost-usb-1024x683.jpg) It charges off of a standard 5V USB connection, which I have plenty of as a result of [adding a bunch](https://seabits.com/usb-power-solutions-simple/) throughout the boat. It does take some time to charge it back up once depleted. It also has a USB 5V out port to charge up your electronics, and a handy light to help you find your battery in the dark, in case the power is completely out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/NOCO-Genius-Boost-unit-close-1024x469.jpg) It is pretty easy to use as well – push the power button to turn it on, and you’ll see how much capacity you have as shown by the LEDs in the upper right. Once you connect the leads and get them on the battery terminals, press and hold the red exclamation until the light in between the heartbeat symbols comes on, and you’re ready to try starting. If you do need to use it for a full jump start, they warn not to crank forever off of it – small tries with pauses in between so things can recover. I’ve even used it in a pinch when I needed a 12v power supply dock-side to do some pumping of a flooded dinghy for a neighbor. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/NOCO-Genius-Boost-back-1024x683.jpg) I tested it by completely depleting my entire battery bank (which I wanted to do for other reasons) and then using it to crank over a cold engine, in winter, after not having used the boat for over a week. It usually takes a bit longer to start that way, but I didn’t notice any additional delay when using the NOCO. The engine fired up after it gave it a jolt, and once the engine was running, my 100 amp Balmar alternator kicked in and started charging the house bank. I find it amazing that this tiny little box can output 12V at a 1000A max! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/NOCO-Genius-Boost-cables-1024x683.jpg) The battery clamps are well made and have good strong springs, and a connector that can’t be messed up when connecting it to the unit. I started carrying one of these in my car a years ago, and 3 years ago I added one to my boat toolkit and highly recommend every sailor does as well. They are no bigger than an average sized book, stay charged for a long time, and can provide peace of mind if you have a battery issue while on the water. --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Timothy Grady [March 2, 2018 at 2:35 am](https://seabits.com/portable-lithium-jump-starter-sailboat/#comment-475) But…but…but…it says not recommended for diesels. You can’t do that. Well, maybe you can and I guess you did. Do you know what the down side is for these units to start a diesel? Does the battery get ‘warm’ ? Timothy Grady [March 2, 2018 at 9:54 pm](https://seabits.com/portable-lithium-jump-starter-sailboat/#comment-474) Never mind. The advertisement for the 1000 watt system says it is good for up to a 3 liter diesel. DLM [June 26, 2020 at 2:33 pm](https://seabits.com/portable-lithium-jump-starter-sailboat/#comment-110) I have one of these, but now I am wondering how to make sure it stays charged. Do you leave it plugged in? Or do you try to remember to check and charge it periodically? Knowing me, I would probably forget to check, and it would be dead the one time that I really need it! James [August 1, 2021 at 11:42 am](https://seabits.com/portable-lithium-jump-starter-sailboat/#comment-3665) Don’t get into the habit of holding the emergency override button for normal starts. It disables all sorts of safety protection. You only use that if your battery is so depleted that the unit can’t detect your battery. ### Completed navigation panel URL: https://seabits.com/completed-navigation-panel/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:03:12.000Z A few weeks ago I posted about [redesigning the nav and electrical panel](https://seabits.com/redesigning-the-nav-and-electrical-panel/), and after a lot of planning and discussion, I made my final choices, placed orders, and submitted my front panel to be made. A week later everything arrived, and it was time for an epic weekend project to remove the old one, and put the new one back in. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Front-Panel-mockup-942x1024.jpg) I always lay out anything I do in OmniGraffle to make sure things fit and look right. For the front panel, I exported the draft panel out of Front Panel Designer, imported it into OmniGraffle, and then added measured graphics for each item. The above is one of the last iterations of the panel I created before finalizing the layout. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Grace-front-panel-Front-Panel-Design-945x1024.jpg) This is the exported final PDF from [Front Panel Designer](https://www.frontpanelexpress.com/downloads/front%5Fpanel%5Fdesigner/?ref=seabits.com) that I sent to Front Panel Express to be manufactured. You can see a couple of changes from the OmniGraffle layout, mainly the name at the top, and shifting some things up a little bit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/BlueSea-360-DC-panel-new-1024x768.jpg) The biggest choice from my previous post was what type of AC and DC panels to use in the redesign – BlueSea 360, BlueSea Traditional, or CZone digital. After pricing out all three, I was able to eliminate the CZone solution, which was almost 3x the cost of everything else. While it would be great to control everything via software, it wasn’t worth the cost. I ended up choosing the BlueSea 360 panels because of their compact size compared to the traditional panels. I couldn’t make the traditional panels fit the way I would like without displacing other instruments, and I had used the 360s before with my previous boat [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/BlueSea-360-DC-panel-back-1024x768.jpg) Both DC and AC panels come pre-wired with 15 amp breakers. I ended up with a 16 breaker DC panel, and two AC panels with a main breaker and two sub-breakers each. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/BlueSea-360-labels-1024x768.jpg) I also ordered some extra label kits to cover the various circuit names I knew I’d need. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Front-Panel-Express-packaging-tear-open-1024x683.jpg) A week or so after submitting my panel to be made, it arrived in very secure packaging. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Back-standoffs-deatil-768x1024.jpg) The back of the panel looked perfect as I removed the packing material. The accuracy and cleanliness of the cuts always amazes me – the shadows and reflections in the corners of the cutouts are perfect. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Panel-front-1024x683.jpg) From the front it looked even better. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Panel-Grace-Name-2-1024x768.jpg) The inlaid name was a thing of beauty – they cut it out with their fancy machine, and then put the color of infill you request, and it has a 3d quality to it. Beautiful! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/New-panel-test-fit-683x1024.jpg) The first thing I needed to do was to test fit the new panel to make sure my tedious measurements were correct. I could see that I would have to shim the hinges on the bottom because the space, of course, was not exactly square or perfect, as I expected. But this was an easy thing to do. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Test-fitting-all-components-768x1024.jpg) At this point I had verified that the basics were OK – the panel fit, I had all of the key pieces, and everything seemed to be within tolerances. I test fit everything I could to ensure the spaces were correct (they were) and to figure out other hardware I needed. It’s important to note that if you design panel, make sure you: Don’t trust manufacturer templates – get the real gear, measure it and compare it to their diagrams. Several times I found they were off by quite a bit, which with aluminum, can make for a messy fix. Add 1-3mm for every opening – Depending on what the device is, add some slop so you can move things around to get items next door in line, and because aluminum is somewhat unforgiving. When I first used a panel like this, I made the hole exactly to the measurement, and the panel shaved off a ton of plastic from the radio I was trying to shove in, and left me no room for error. I still needed to source screws, nuts, and a bunch of random other pieces such as primary wire and connectors. Off I went to the store to gather all of those items. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Old-panel-before-683x1024.jpg) The next morning it was time for the old panel to come out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Old-panel-coming-out-1024x683.jpg) It was pretty cold in Seattle on the weekend I did this, so I started as early as I could to have more daylight. I disconnected the entire DC and AC system, and ran a 110VAC cable from the dock box into the boat for power tools and charging. My [Wallas diesel heater](https://seabits.com/installing-wallas-heater/) comes off of a DC bus further up the line, so I used that to keep warm. As I removed everything, I used my favorite Brady BMP label maker along with nylon cloth labels to make sure each item was clearly labeled for reconnection later. The nylon cloth labels are virtually indestructible and are one of my favorite things to have found years ago when rewiring Jammy. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Old-panel-gone-768x1024.jpg) With the old panel gone, and most of the wires up and out of the way, it was time to remove the two blocks that held the old panel, remove the lower wood blank, clean up further down inside, and get the new panel mounted. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Hinges-1024x768.jpg) For the bottom edge of the panel, I used two beefy piano hinges that I had intended on using the standoffs on the back of the panel to mount to. They turned out to be far too small, so I was forced to drill holes through the bottom edge of the panel to mount these. That turned out to be a better solution overall since it allowed for some more fine tuned adjustments. I also had several of the standoffs come out of their mounting points, so it was good I did not rely on these to hold the bottom edge of the panel to the hinges. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Locks-1024x768.jpg) To hold the top edge of the panel secure while closed, I used what is called a boat bolt. Essentially it is a throw bolt with detents to hold it closed or open, and a copper spring behind it to keep it from rattling or making noise. I had done a panel a few years ago with a standard bolt, and it made a lot of a noise when things were bouncing around, so these seemed better. Each side of the panel would have one of these and they would slide into holes in either side of the wood near the panel. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/New-panel-inital-mounting-1024x683.jpg) After a surprisingly short time, I had the panel mounted and secured completely. It swung easily when released, even though I did have to shim the right hand hinge to ensure a good fit. The top stopped right before the fiberglass structure above, and the bolts held everything securely. One thing I was able to do was move the entire panel out almost 2 inches, giving me more room for the devices mounted in the panel, and the stuff behind it a little breathing room. The original panel had issues with the VHF radio (even the original radio) squishing its connectors up against the power blocks, which I didn’t like. I also removed the 3.5″ wood spacer below the old panel, and took that space for more front panel space overall – quite a space gain in both height and depth! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Front-panel-locks-1024x683.jpg) I really liked how secure the dual bolt locks were. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Test-fitting-all-components-nav-panel-1024x683.jpg) After a bit of trial and error, I determined that it would be far better to install everything I could while the panel was out on the table rather than one at a time while fully installed. I could reach everything easier this way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Test-fitting-components-back-1024x683.jpg) Other than some absurdly long bolts which I plan on swapping out, everything looked good and I even did some pre-wiring for things like the 12v and USB sockets. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Tools-and-bench-nav-panel-replacement-1024x683.jpg) I had to purchase a new crimping tool as my old one fractured about a week before this project. After a bit of research I went with the higher end Ancor model and I am glad I did. I usually steer away from their stuff because some of the lower or West Marine branded versions are pretty crappy. This one has a ton of heft to it, and ratchets very nicely. Double crimps came out perfect for everything it touched. I also had my standby Stanley box full of everything I could need, and a good space for working. I knew I would have to run a bunch of new wiring, as well as fix and re-terminate much, if not all, of the existing stuff. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Dealing-with-wires-and-holdback-1024x683.jpg) To hold the panel from tipping out too far, I used a length of Dyneema (non conductive is important!) and attached a pad eye to a mount point near the stereo, and another to the big wood crossbar holding the electrical distribution. It worked perfectly and allowed me to work on the panel without fear of it crashing open. Note that the picture above is mid way through sorting and re-attaching all of the wiring. At this point my back was the limiting factor – reaching over into that area became a strange form of torture over the next 2 days while I added new busses for the AC side, traced each cable from both AC and DC, re-terminated almost all of them, and ran them to their new destinations. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/12V-and-NMEA-2000-port-detail-1024x683.jpg) I thought about a lot of the usability aspects of the panel while I designed it. I placed the “dirty” stuff at the bottom that would likely have cables coming out. The USB chargers are used extensively while we are underway to keep all of the tablets and phones charged, as well as things like the Garmin inReach when we are at the dock or on anchor. Having NMEA 2000 is always nice, and I had that on my last panel too so I could connect a PC to do updates or diagnostics. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/BlueSea-360-AC-panel-1024x683.jpg) On the AC side, I finally had a properly wired and grounded set of panels. The one on the left is for the non-inverted AC power that the inverter passes through when we are connected to shore power, and runs the water heater and air conditioner. The one on the right is for inverted power which includes two circuits for starboard and port outlets. In the future I may use one of those for something else, since I never have that much on those outlets – I just separated them for now since I had the capacity. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/BlueSea-360-DC-panel-1024x683.jpg) On the DC side, I ended up with 4 more circuits than I had with the original panel, and in a much more compact space. With the last panel, I had to combine some circuits for various things, such as my computer/internet alcove, and the CO2 and fire alarm. Here I was able to have all of the original circuits, plus the new ones I needed, and I still ended up with one spare for expansion. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Grace-SignalK-display-instrumentpanel-1024x683.jpg) Further up the panel, everything else fit, and even more in line and true than I expected would happen. The radios, most commonly used, I put at the top and very visible. The previous panel was inset too much and created some problems when trying to use the stereo. Critical instruments stripe the middle area with power management on the left, general data in the middle on the dedicated Raspberry Pi screen running SignalK, and marine stuff on the Maretron DSM 410. More power stuff is right below with the Balmar SmartGauge and Fridge Optimizer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Grace-completed-nav-electrical-panel-1024x683.jpg) From the top down, left to right, here’s what is on the panel: Standard Horizon GX2200 VHF radio, Fusion MSRA70N stereo, MasterVolt EasyView 5, Custom Raspberry Pi with 7″ touch screen, Maretron DSM 410, Balmar SmartGauge, Stainless Lobster Fridge Optimizer, AC and DC Panels, USB, 12V and NMEA 2000 outlets. There is even some room for expansion at various key places on the panel. I am sure I will find something new to fill those spaces! From the cost perspective, here is how things broke out: ![nav-panel-costs](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/nav-panel-costs.png) Note that I didn’t count the Ancor crimpers in this budget since I did not buy them specifically for this project – they’ll be used heavily for years to come! # Tips **Measure measure measure** – getting a new panel to fit perfectly, especially in my case where I was moving it further out, required tons of measurements. I even mocked the entire size of the panel up in cardboard to make sure. Measuring the devices that go into the panel multiple times is also highly recommended. **Mock it up** – create your panel in Front Panel Designer, but also go get the graphics for the actual devices and use OmniGraffle (Mac) or Visio (PC) to lay things out to see how it looks. I went through at least 30 revisions this way until finding the one I liked the most. Just because something fits somewhere doesn’t mean it should. Think about how you would use the various devices and how frequently. **Stand offs / rear mounted bolts** – these aren’t really useful for an electrical panel. Three of them broke off due to the weight and torque from the wire. They aren’t seated very deeply – maybe this is something that I could have adjusted, but it was easier to use the bolts coming through that are holding the devices as points to tie down cables. **Leave room** – aluminum is hard to work with without creating a mess. Leave some space around each device (1-3mm depending on the device) so you can get them in. **Drill afterwards** – I’ve tried to get the mounting holes just perfect in previous panels, and have Front Panel Express drill them for me. This works for some things but also limits you. Being able to test fit everything and move things around a few millimeters and then choose your drilling location is easier in my opinion. **Protect your workspace** – this is a no brainer for most folks, but when you drill aluminum it leaves very sharp shards **everywhere**. I put down a lot of protectant everywhere in my work area, even the floor that I was walking around on because it tracks easily. **Test fit everything** – the panel in the hole, the devices in their spots, and make sure you have provisions for shims and spacers if needed. Test it over and over until you’re sure it is right. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/02/Front-panel-SignalK-Grafana-1024x683.jpg) Taking pictures of dark black panels with shiny and sometimes bright displays on them is pretty hard. I’m a pretty decent photographer, but this was one of the hardest things I’ve ever photographed. Nevertheless, the panel looks a lot more impressive in person that it does in the pictures, and I absolutely love the upgrade. I have more space, a much safer AC power system, more expansion and room to grow with both AC and DC power, and the overall solution is far more usable in general. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 7 comments sawickipedia@sawickipedia October 01, 2024 Curious as to the thickness you used for your panel from Front Panel - I’m designing my first panel with them - thanks! Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 October 03, 2024 That particular panel was 3mm thick. Seemed like more than enough thickness to hold everything - some stuff was pretty heavy. sawickipedia@sawickipedia October 04, 2024 Thanks - it definitely looked thicker than normal so that’s why I was curious - I’m looking at needing a similarly thick panel so good to know what you did sawickipedia@sawickipedia February 10, 2025 Just in case anyone else looks for that latch bolt - I figured out it’s a Perko P/N 1053-DP-CHR - Chrome Plated Bronze Ship Bolt Dan@danapple March 15, 2026 This is an amazing panel! I’m thinking of doing something similar for my (new to me) Beneteau Oceanis 323 Clipper. I was curious what your thoughts were on putting the hinge on the right side, so the panel opens like a door, instead of downward onto the table. Thanks, Dan Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #7 March 15, 2026 Thanks! I believe I chose the hinge down because that allowed everything to stay mounted and not hit anything when it opened, other than the table, which gave me the maximum amount of open area to work in there once it was at it’s extreme. However, it would depend on what you wanted to put on the panel, and whether swinging one way or the other had anything in the way, etc. I also seem to remember it was inset a bit, so if I hinged to the left or right, that was a bit in the way… Dan@danapple↩ #8 March 16, 2026 Thanks, Steve! That’s really helpful. I’ll definitely have to give some thought to how the things that stick out from the panel could hit the adjacent bulkhead (to the head). Even if I don’t build a whole new panel, I’m definitely going to put a hinge and quick releases on the existing one. ### Fridge Optimizer now supports SignalK URL: https://seabits.com/fridge-optimizer-now-supports-signalk/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T20:40:03.000Z The [Stainless Lobster Fridge Optimizer](https://seabits.com/save-battery-beer-stainless-lobster-fridge-optimizer/) still remains one of my favorite additions to [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), mainly because of the massive power savings and visibility it provides. Recently, the folks at Stainless Lobster released new firmware that supports output of stats via the USB port on the unit, and Scott Bender wrote an app for SignalK to parse this info. Now you can see details from the Fridge Optimizer within various SignalK applications, which is one of the things I mentioned in my original review that would be nice to have! Here’s how to get started. # Update your Firmware Head over to [Stainless Lobster’s support site](http://stainlesslobster.com/downloads/?ref=seabits.com) and download the updated firmware. You’ll need a Windows laptop with a free USB port and a USB cable with a mini B plug (not micro). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Downloaded-updated-1024x653.png) Once you have it downloaded, extract the zip file and run the update2 installer to get the firmware updater installed. Stainless Lobster has a good set of steps to get this part taken care of. Following their instructions, I disconnected my Fridge Optimizer from the RJ45 ethernet cable and connected my USB cable to my Windows machine and the Optimizer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Device-Manager-showing-Fridge-Optimizer-serial-port-1024x750.png) Head over to Device Manager to find out which COM port is being used – makes the next step much easier. Stainless Lobster suggest just trying any listed until you find the right one, but I prefer to do it this way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Stainless-Lobster-fridge-optimizer-updater.png) Find the firmware file you downloaded and ensure that is in the top box, choose the right com port, and hit upload. You can see the updated version number show up on the Fridge Optimizer once it reboots. # Connect to SignalK I am using a Raspberry Pi for my [SignalK](https://seabits.com/tag/signalk/) machine on Grace, so connecting it was as straightforward.In order to use this functionality, you will need to have a more recent version of SignalK and have it running on a machine of your choice with a free USB port. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Stainless-Lobster-Fridge-Optimizer-USB-device-1024x231.png) To get things going, I reconnected the RJ45 ethernet cable to the back of the Fridge Optimizer, then USB from that to the Pi. I noted the USB device, which in my case is ttyUSB1. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Stainless-Lobster-Fridge-Optimizer-install-signalk-app-1024x870.png) You’ll need to install [Scott Bender’s](https://github.com/sbender9?ref=seabits.com) [signalk-stainless-lobster-fridge](https://github.com/sbender9/signalk-stainless-lobster-fridge?ref=seabits.com) from the Appstore in your SignalK admin area. He has a bunch of other apps I use in my SignalK setup including some to control my Fusion stereo and Raymarine autopilot. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Stainless-Lobster-Fridge-Optimizer-configure-USB-port-1024x757.png) Once you have it installed, make sure to go into Plugin Config, make the plugin Active, and configure the USB device that you found when you plugged it in. You’ll also need to restart your SignalK server at this point. # SignalK usage ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Stainless-Lobster-Fridge-Optimizer-SignalK-dashboard-1024x688.png) Once everything is working, you should see Provider Activity on the main dashboard showing signalk-stainless-lobster-fridge. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Stainless-Lobster-Fridge-Optimizer-SignalK-instrument-panel-1024x574.png) I decided to use the wonderful [Instrument Panel app](https://github.com/SignalK/instrumentpanel?ref=seabits.com) written by [Teppo Kurki](https://github.com/tkurki?ref=seabits.com), which has been my go-to app for SignalK for just about anything. You can see above that I have a number of new items on the dashboard coming directly from my Fridge Optimizer. I chose to configure a couple of them like gauges for the voltage and temperature. You can also see there is still a bit of work to do to get the data into a usable format for some of the items. This isn’t atypical of new data types in SignalK and I expect the folks there will whip things into shape soon. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/WilhelmSK-screenshot-Fridge-Optimizer-473x1024.png) WilhelmSK iOS app screen shot courtesy of Scott Bender Scott Bender also develops the best app to use with SignalK – [WilhelmSK](https://www.wilhelmsk.com/?ref=seabits.com). Above is a screen shot he provided showing his Fridge Optimizer data in the app. With my [VPN capabilities](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/), this means I am able to check on my fridge status from wherever I am. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/FredgeData-1024x628.jpg) Grafana dashboard of Fridge Optimizer data, provided by Scott Bender The other really exciting thing that I will be writing about soon is the addition of longer term data logging to SignalK. Above you can see a dashboard in Grafana showing Scott’s fridge data. The possibilities for these sorts of dashboards are endless, and is a pet project of mine that I have been working on since the early 2000s, so you can see why I would be a bit excited about something like this! I’m very excited whenever there is more data, and am really happy that the Fridge Optimizer is now something that I could check from anywhere, not just looking at their nice panel. I look forward to more vendors integrating with SignalK. ### Redesigning the nav and electrical panel URL: https://seabits.com/redesigning-the-nav-and-electrical-panel/ Last updated: 2021-10-02T02:59:59.000Z My navigation and electrical panel has been in need of an update for a while. In addition, I have never liked the electrical circuit layout, and am out of DC circuits. I have a general design of what I would like, but still have not settled on a final solution for the electrical panel. Here are the project goals: - **Hinged panel** – I open and close the current wood panel frequently, and it is not very serviceable. Two screws hold it in now, and you have to slide it duown and out, putting some components at risk. I would like a hinged panel or something similar to allow for easy access. - **Layout components more sensibly** – current layout was based on available space and existing components. - **Rework capable** – I am sure I will replace one or more components through the life of the panel, and I would like to be able to swap the entire panel out easily with an updated one. - **Fix AC circuits** – with the addition of an inverter with my [power system upgrade project](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/), I found inadequate fusing that I want to fix. I also want a better breaker for my shore power connection. - **Light up DC circuits** – the current panel has a tiny light near each breaker when it is on, but nothing under or near the name. Some breakers lights have stopped working altogether. I installed a BlueSea 360 panel on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), my previous boat, and loved the backlit labels. - **Add more DC circuits / split out others** – I want to separate out some circuits that are combined now, and add one or two. # Current Panel ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Grace-nav-panel-front-1024x888.jpg) Current navigation panel My current panel is nice wood that has been modified a few times by me and the previous owner. It requires unscrewing two screws and carefully lowering it down a bit before it folds out. I’ve already had to replace one screw with a bigger one after wearing out the hole. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Grace-nav-panel-inside-683x1024.jpg) Reaching things once it is open is pretty decent, although I do have to put a pillow underneath the front to prevent any damage. Behind it is the main electrical distribution bus for all of the DC circuits. # Panel Choice I have made my choice for the panel – I will be designing one using Front Panel Designer and having [Front Panel Express](https://www.frontpanelexpress.com/?ref=seabits.com) produce it. I have done this before for the [navigation panel on Jammy](https://seabits.com/front-panel-is-in/), and ended up making over 10 different panels with their service. The power is in the Front Panel Designer software, which allows you to choose the type of material, thickness, and coverings, make holes, squares, and other shapes, and add labels plus more. All of this is then easily sent directly from the software to their site, and your panel is manufactured on their state of the art systems and sent to you a week or two later. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/03/fp1.jpg) You can specify the color of the anodization, width of the overall panel material, if you want the edges sharp as a razor or with a bevel, and much, much more. Having made so many panels, I recommend always measuring your components and not relying on manufacturer cut templates or specifications, as they often vary. I also always add 1-2mm of extra space in cutouts as aluminum is very unforgiving and sharp, and very hard to shave off without creating a mess. I haven’t figured out exactly how thick I want this one, but I think black would be the best color for all of the components that will end up going on it. I also think white lettering would be clear and easy to read. In terms of serviceability, I believe attaching it to the bottom of the existing wood with hinges hidden behind it, and allowing the whole panel to fold out easily would be best. I haven’t figured out how to keep it from folding out too far, but there are a number of options there. To keep it locked in, two surface bolts of some sort facing up into the top area (or something similar) – I haven’t figured that out quite completely yet. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Front-Panel-Designer-full-screen-1024x592.png) My current panel layout is still evolving, but Front Panel Designer makes it easy to move things around to see how things look. Everything fits, but it is still pretty tight overall. I’ve got a lot of alternate panels and layouts outside in the margins and drag them around to figure out exactly how I want it to look. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Grace-nav-panel-BlueSea-metal-panels-1024x909.jpg) You can also export it to PDF and see how it would look as a final product. After a few iterations, I knew I had the general panel design pretty close, but I needed to decide exactly what components I was going to order! # DC Circuits I currently have 12 DC circuits with my existing panel, and would like to have a couple more circuits, both for expansion and to break out some existing items that I don’t like having combined. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Grace-DC-electrical-panel-1024x600.jpg) I think the panel takes up far too much space for 12 circuits, and I hate that I can’t ever figure out where the cabin lights circuit is when I am in the dark. The battery test button and meter is not needed with all of the MasterVolt instrumentation I have. While the circuit breakers are relatively inexpensive, finding ones that have the light has been challenging, and I don’t like the bus in the back that you have to work with. ## BlueSea vs CZone The biggest choice in my DC system is whether I use a BlueSea panel, or go networked and use a CZone system. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/BlueSea-1222-1024x859.jpg) BlueSea is one of my favorite manufacturers. I have used their stuff everywhere for years, and love it. I prefer their 360 panels, and installed one on Jammy that worked perfectly for the years I owned her. There is a 16 position 12v panel that would be great for everything I have now, plus expansion. It is more compact than the Traditional Panel below, and does not have extra busses wired on the back which I don’t need. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/BlueSea-8377-1024x732.jpg) I am also considering the BlueSea traditional panels as I know for the AC side, I am going to be stuck using those. This one is only 1.25″ wider than the 360 panel, but it would match the AC panels which might look better. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/CZone-COI-1024x683.jpg) CZone COI CZone has a product called the Combination Output Interface, or COI. It is a beautiful little box that has 4 high current and 12 low current outputs, 8 analog inputs, NMEA 2000 network connection, and a connection to a manual switch box. This would allow me to eliminate the DC panel itself to save room, and have a lot more freedom and control over the system from around the boat or even remotely via the NMEA 2000 connection. However, I would want a few manual switches for critical things, which requires another interface box and cable, and I would use my B&G Vulcan 5 to control scenes and other switches that are less used, which would take up some space on the panel. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/CZone-COI-installed-cropped.jpg) This solutions seems more my style, but it is more than double the cost of the BlueSea solution. It also has a few more parts: - CZone COI box - Breakout box for analog switches - 6 analog switches - Analog switch cable connectors - CZone to MasterBus interface - Crimper for specialized connectors - USB CAN bus programmer to program COI box It still is very attractive to me because of its networked ability and space saving, but is it worth the price? I haven’t been able to find many people with boats my size who have used this solution. # AC Circuits After adding the inverter last year, I have been wanting to redo the AC part of the panel to eliminate some breakers that are not used, update the shore power breaker, and separate out the inverted vs non-inverted circuits better. I reviewed the 360 and Traditional Metal Panels from BlueSea, and am leaning towards the Traditional because they come pre-wired with all busses on the back of the panel. The 360 panels require separate busses for neutral and ground, which would be more space and components that I probably don’t have room for. Right now this is my leading solution: - 1x [BlueSea 8100 ELCI Main 30A double pole shore power circuit breaker](https://www.bluesea.com/products/8100/ELCI%5FMain%5F30A%5FDouble%5FPole?ref=seabits.com) - 1x [BlueSea 8027 6 position + AC main panel](https://www.bluesea.com/products/8027/Traditional%5FMetal%5FPanel%5F-%5FAC%5FMain%5F%2B%5F6%5FPositions?ref=seabits.com) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/BlueSea-8100-1024x734.jpg) BlueSea 8100 The BlueSea ELCI would take my main shore power connection and provide a better overall circuit than the existing one. The output from that then goes to the inverter, which passes on inverted and non-inverted AC. This allows the inverter to “see” all of the AC power coming from shore, and adjust various things on the fly depending on how much of my 30A shore power connection I am using. I love this feature, and have used it a bunch when visiting other marinas that have lower breaker (or trip at a lower level) shore power connections. In the summer, I can have the air conditioner and water heater on, which draw quite a bit from shore, and the inverter will slow down the battery rate of charge so that things are comfortable. I could just bypass this part of the inverter, and only run inverted circuits through it, but I would likely trip the shore power circuit breaker which would be annoying. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/BlueSea-8027-721x1024.jpg) BlueSea 8027 The two different AC circuits would then make their way to this panel. The non-inverted would go to the bottom three circuit breakers, and the inverted would head to the main AC breaker at the top. From what I have read, this is pretty common, and you can cut the busses on the back to isolate them from each-other. Also according to specifications, the normal AC (non-inverted) power has an upstream master breaker (the 8100 above) and the inverted power has the one on this panel, which is safer than what I have now. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/BlueSea-1214-1024x999.jpg) BlueSea 1214 I could go with the 360 panels, and put two of them in – one for inverted, and one for non-inverted power. That adds an additional master circuit breaker for the non-inverted power, which isn’t a bad thing, but from what I understand it isn’t required. In addition, this limits me to two circuits for each panel, instead a total of 6 with the combined panel above. In addition, as I mentioned above, 360 panels do not have neutral or ground busses integrated, so I would have to provide those somewhere. # Example Layouts So let’s take a look at the three layouts I am considering. I’ve used the export to PDF functionality from Front Panel Designer, and then imported it into OmniGraffle. The next step was to find front facing images of all of the equipment, resize them down to the layout cutout, and overlay them to see how it looked in the real world. ## Layout 1 – BlueSea Traditional Panels ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Grace-nav-panel-BlueSea-Traditional-1024x909.jpg) This uses BlueSea Traditional Panels for both AC and DC, gets me more circuits for both AC and DC, and meets my requirements for lighting and such. However, they are bigger than any other solution, and leave little room for other things. ## Layout 2 – BlueSea 360 Panel for DC, Traditional for AC ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Grace-nav-panel-BlueSea-360-traditional-1024x909.jpg) I deliberately did not move anything on this layout other than replacing the traditional DC panel with BlueSea 360 model 1222\. It is quite a bit narrower, but slightly taller. They don’t look too bad mixed on the layout, and if I took some time, I bet I could re-arrange some of the upper instruments to get more space and a better layout. Layout 1 definitely looks more cohesive though…. ## Layout 3 – CZone COI and B&G Vulcan 5 ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Grace-nav-panel-CZone-layout-1024x909.jpg) I used the CZone Touch 5 graphic above to show the electrical screens, but the display from my B&G Vulcan 5 would be similar, plus I would have charts, NMEA 2000 data, and be able to remove the Maretron, saving even more space. The 6 white circles and names to the right would be the push buttons to turn on/off critical circuits even if the Vulcan or the NMEA network were down for some reason. This layout gives me a lot more flexibility with space, and could mean adding more AC panels if the combo one doesn’t work. However it comes at double the cost and more complexity. The COI unit would have to be mounted behind the panel, which is OK by me since it would not hinge out and likely be safer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Grace-nav-panel-CZone-extreme-1024x909.jpg) Here’s an alternate for Layout 3 that eliminates the Maretron since the Vulcan can show everything it can, which gives me even more room. I added a second 12V socket / USB block since those are always in high demand for charging various things. I also moved the buttons for the critical circuits up higher so they are easier to find. This layout might be necessary if I have to add more AC panels or use larger panels in general. # Thoughts I would like to have this project done in the next couple of months prior to the time when we start taking more frequent trips. I think the overall approach is OK and can’t find any major problems with it. I have been thinking this through ever since I started my power project last year. The CZone system has a lot of appeal to me from the networking perspective. It also would make it much easier if I wanted to swap the aluminum panel out for future instruments, as all of the DC wiring would be moved into the cavity behind. It is harder to add new wiring – requiring crimpers and potentially removing the large plugs from the unit. But the space I gain is considerable. Normal BlueSea panels don’t require networking, but they take up a lot more space. If I were to go with one of those, I would have to consider going from 16 to 12 DC circuits, which is a bummer. I really want to break out some things that should not be sharing circuits (VHF being the top priority) and have some room for expansion for things like spreader lights and a dedicated circuit for the radar. Any way you cut it this will be a fairly decent sized project. All of the AC and DC wiring is in place, so it is a matter of choosing the new panel solution, ordering it, measuring everything and finalizing the Front Panel Express order, and then diving in! Any suggestions or comments are much appreciated. Have you ever used or worked on a CZone system? If you have inverted and non-inverted circuits, how have you paneled or routed them? --- ### Archived Comments These are read only comments from the old system. Scroll down to participate in [SeaBits Discussions](https://talk.seabits.com/c/articles/5?ref=seabits.com), our new interactive forum attached to each article. Walter [January 22, 2018 at 3:17 am](https://seabits.com/redesigning-the-nav-and-electrical-panel/#comment-494) My Suggestion would be: 1) Use 360 Panels if you can justify the cost, they look clean and modern 2) Utilize Sub panels incorperating either 360 panels od weatherdeck switchs instead of Czone. 3) Place the audio equipment vertically stacked and the displays horizontally stacked I would have a DC 360 panel with grouped sub-systems on each Circuit breaker, and then branch those systems off to a WeatherDeck with the internal fuses. You could have one circuit on the DC main “External lights” and then place a WeatherDeck just inside the companion way with each switch for a dedicated light. The labels change color indicating on (green), off (red), and no power (out). And you can easliy access and veiw from inside or the helm while underway. Another Weatherdeck could be on a “Nav Equipment” Circuit, placed at the Helm. From here you could turn on Radar, chart plotter, AutoPilot ect. Allowing you to power down or power up the helm station from the Nav station before and after a voyage. MrSteve007 [January 22, 2018 at 11:11 pm](https://seabits.com/redesigning-the-nav-and-electrical-panel/#comment-495) On my Hunter 326, the nav radio is near the companionway (with a remote mic at the helm). This has never been a problem for me. For some monitoring devices, such as the PV power system, they’re mounted on the side of the Nav station, vs. in the main panel wall. Although, I too have been having issues with my DC panel getting too crowded. I wouldn’t mind separating both the radar and the AIS from the “Nav/Electronics” breaker – although I have discovered it isn’t too hard to power down the radar from the Raymarine Chartplotter’s interface. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/a357a5442704b26969561b07415430e09c8911e3b09889a80ee93471e1ad0f0d.jpg) Howard Tucker [January 23, 2018 at 4:16 pm](https://seabits.com/redesigning-the-nav-and-electrical-panel/#comment-493) Do you really need the cigarette lighter plugs? Maybe just get USB panels? Ludovic Francois [January 25, 2018 at 12:09 am](https://seabits.com/redesigning-the-nav-and-electrical-panel/#comment-491) What about the smart gauge? Not happy with it? I got one for $60 at West Marine last week, so now I see you are not sure to keep it. I am curious about that 🙂 [Steve Mitchell](https://seabits.com/) [January 28, 2018 at 5:40 am](https://seabits.com/redesigning-the-nav-and-electrical-panel/#comment-490) The latest revision of the panel is below. I have definitely settled on BlueSea 360 panels which I have already received and measured, and moved some things around to help balance stuff. From the top down left to right: B&G V50 VHF (may switch to Standard Horizon) NMEA 2000 port Fusion MS-RA70N radio MasterVolt EasyView 5 Raspberry Pi 7″ touch screen Maretron DSM 410 Balmar Smart Gauge Stainless Lobster Fridge Optimizer AC Panel 1 (inverted) AC Panel 2 (non-inverted) DC Panel USB/12V/USB/12V I will be doing some final measurements tomorrow and then submitting my panel for production. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2021/10/35278bc4700617374e8c9d771d12cfeaa9388c8e9e1664b3cfffdd9974ccb94e.jpg) ### Raymarine ITC-5 simplifies older ST instruments URL: https://seabits.com/raymarine-itc-5-simplifies-older-st-instruments/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T20:42:23.000Z I am always on the look out for ways to make my instruments and network more reliable and future-proof on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/). One of the last instruments left that I hadn’t addressed was the Raymarine ST60 wind display. A while ago I came across the [Raymarine ITC-5](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=3338&ref=seabits.com), which does not seem to have been marketed much as a solution to help with older instruments and newer networks. It seemed perfect to help increase the quality of my network while replacing some old pieces. Grace came with Raymarine ST60 series wind and depth instruments which use the rather old Raymarine SeaTalk1 protocol. My original solution to bringing this data onto my NMEA 2000 network was to use a [SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNG converter](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/) (scroll down a bit) connected to a SeaTalkNG network, which was also cross connected to the rest of the NMEA 2000 network. I eventually replaced the dual thru-hull depth sensors with a single Maretron DST110, which is native NMEA 2000\. That left the wind instrument at the top of the mast, and the ST60 wind display. For more details on my network, please see the [most up-to-date diagram here](https://seabits.com/grace/). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0342-768x1024.jpg) When I [added the i70s displays recently](https://seabits.com/seattle-friday-harbor-back-cattle-pass-drama/), I simply took the ST60+ display part and hid it under the steering station. This worked for a while until it came unplugged at a rather inconvenient time, so I decided to install the ITC-5, which I had purchased a year or so ago. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Raymarine-ITC-5-1024x768.jpg) The main unit is a beefy piece of plastic and comes with a SeaTalkNG cable, packet of connectors and screws, and a manual. I planned on removing the SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNG converter, which was being used only for the ST60, and replace it with this, so the SeaTalkNG device port (the white one) would work perfectly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Raymarine-ITC-5-side-view-1024x768.jpg) One of the main reasons for installing this was to prevent the cables from coming unplugged from the back of the ST60\. The ITC-5 has a very secure cover with clips, and a screw to keep it in place, as well as passthroughs for the wires coming in either side. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Raymarine-ITC-5-inside-cover-1024x768.jpg) The front cover has a great big rubber gasket and angled entry points to help retain the wires as much as possible. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Raymarine-ITC-5-connectors-open-1024x768.jpg) The main part of the unit has copper connectors that are clearly labeled and ready for connectors for Speed/Temp, Wind, Compass, Rudder, and Depth. There are several ways to connect Wind instruments depending on the model and type. Each bank has a light which will indicate successful data transfer and connection. The unit itself has status lights similar to the SeaTalk1 converter right near the SeaTalkNG connector cable, and outside the cover so you can quickly see if data is flowing and power is on. For my particular situation, I was only going to be using the Wind part. I removed the original ST60 and clipped off the older connectors. Using the ones included with the ITC-5, I put brand new connectors on each wire, and then began the contortions to get the unit in place. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2018/01/Raymarine-ITC-5-installed-1024x768.jpg) In the photo above, I was testing the system and used the old connectors. You can also see the SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNG converter in the upper right. The install was pretty straightforwards. I didn’t have to configure anything on the ITC-5, simply plug in the connectors, put the cover on and route the cables, clip it shut, put the screw in, and done. The cable is tightly held by the rubber, and there is little chance the connectors will come undone again. On my i70s I was able to choose to calibrate the ITC-5 wind settings by pointing the boat into the wind. No other adjustments were required. The wind data was showing up on the network perfectly. I eventually plan on replacing the instrument at the top of the mast, but I have not found a good solution just yet. On [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) I had a Maretron WSO100 ultrasonic sensor, but it was quite an ordeal to find space at the top of the mast for it. Other manufacturers have interesting concepts, but the most reliable seem to be similar to what I already have, but with NMEA 2000 cabling. The ITC-5 allows me to get a bit more life out of the existing one with a much more reliable connection. ### Easy security cameras for the sailboat via Arlo URL: https://seabits.com/arlo-security-cameras-on-the-sailboat/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:26:11.000Z I have been a remote video camera junkie since [AXIS came out with their first IP enabled cameras](https://www.axis.com/gh/en/about-axis/history?ref=seabits.com) back in the late 1990s. Leveraging an ISDN internet connection, I was able to monitor my house and a vacation property remotely from a computer. Smartphones didn’t exist at that point, so you had to hunt down a computer and a modem or other connection. The video quality of these cameras was, to say the least, quite low. If I remember correctly, that first camera had 120×120 pixels resolution, which is not really enough for anything serious. Flash forward to now, and we have a ton of different options. I have tried cameras from Nest/Dropcam, Mobotix, Arlo, Ubiquiti, AXIS, Sony, and probably 10 other lesser known manufacturers that I’ve forgotten. So many have restrictions, or are lacking key features, or simply have terrible video quality. ![Nest-deer-elk-cabin](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Nest-deer-elk-cabin.jpg) For the family cabin, we currently use Nest cameras, which have been in place for a number of years. We started when they were called Dropcam, and in 2011 put several inside the house looking outside. This didn’t work as well as I would have liked due to the reflections, as well as family members unplugging them and forgetting to plug them back in. I built and also bought some outdoor cases for the cameras, and they ran for 2-3 years in extreme temperatures outside ranging from over 100F to below 0F and blowing snow and ice. A year or so ago they were upgraded to the [outdoor Nest cameras](https://amzn.to/2UrJKcb?ref=seabits.com). While doing this, I looked at adding cameras to the sailboat, and took advice from a friend who had just invested in Arlo cameras for his house. Arlo and Nest differ in a couple of ways – Nest is on all the time, and takes between 200Kbps-400Kbps of bandwidth constantly. Arlo only streams video up to the cloud when there is motion, or when you command it to do so. Nest requires an AC power source, while Arlo are battery powered. ![Nest-camera-bandwNest-camera-bandwidth-usage](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Nest-camera-bandwidth-usage.png) Example upload bandwidth required by two Nest cameras at our family cabin I could overcome having to provide constant power to Nest cameras on the boat, but the upload bandwidth required is what would kill me. At 200Kbps minimum per camera (usually much higher for HD), I would blow through my LTE data allowance in only a few days! And the video quality on the lowest settings is not that great, so you could be looking at nearly half a megabit per second for a single camera. > Note that Arlo can use a similar amount of bandwidth when you are looking at a live stream, or when it is sending video to the cloud after detecting motion. However, this bandwidth is *only* used on demand when those things are happening, not all the time like Nest or other cameras. After doing some testing with a friends Arlo system, and looking at reviews and other resources online, I took the plunge. I ordered the [Arlo Pro bundle](https://amzn.to/2ENiOga?ref=seabits.com) which included a base station and one camera, and added a [second camera](https://amzn.to/2CluyXd?ref=seabits.com). At the time I couldn’t order a single base station with two cameras, but it [looks like you can now](https://amzn.to/2CaWi0q?ref=seabits.com). ![Arlo-on-sailboat-base-station](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-base-station.jpg) The base station is bigger than I would like for a sailboat and limited storage, but not overly huge. It has some nice status lights to tell you things are working, and a button on the top to sync a new camera, or silence the alarm. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-rear-unit-ports](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-rear-unit-ports.jpg) The back has a reset pinhole, a couple of USB ports which apparently are for “future use”, the ethernet to connect to your internet source, an on/off button, and power connector. I will be using the cameras only while on dock power at a marina, and usually stow the whole thing while underway or on anchor. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-salon-mounted](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-salon-mounted.jpg) The cameras are well built and easy to pair with the base station. This one is mounted in the salon and looks back towards the cockpit doors. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-salon-free](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-salon-free.jpg) The standard mounts are pretty slick – the grey circular part is metallic, and the camera has a strong magnet and indentation on the back. This makes for some very easy adjustments and angles without fiddly screws or other methods. The mount itself takes a single screw to attach to the wall. There are also a ton of Arlo mounts, as well as 3rd party cases, mounts, sun shades, and other solutions. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-front](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-front.jpg) The camera itself has a very wide 130 degree angle of view and works both in daylight and night. Out of all of the cameras I have tested, this one has the best night vision. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-open-battery](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-open-battery.jpg) The back of the camera hinges open to reveal a pretty bulky square battery which can be recharged with the provided cable and power brick, or while in the camera using the door on the bottom rear. *Beware* – do not do what I did and assume that the USB power brick is just like all of the other bazillions that you get with cameras, phones, and everything else nowadays. These are higher power, which is required to charge the Arlo batteries. A normal USB charger, or even a high wattage one will not work. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-cockpit-area](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-cockpit-area.jpg) In the cockpit I used a stainless steel hose clamp to mount the round mounting piece on one of the bimini poles. The camera snaps right on it easily. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-cockpit-close-side-rain](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-camera-cockpit-close-side-rain.jpg) With the great field of view, I can see the whole cockpit, cockpit doors, most of the center area of the boat, and the walkway leading up to the boat as well. I’ve had the outside camera exposed to both the heat of the summer, and the wet windy fall, with a few winter days thrown in. So far it has had zero issues. Battery life is dictated by how many times they go off due to motion or alarms, and how many times I connect in and watch things when I want to see what is going on. So far I have only charged them once, and that was after a lot of usage. The magnetic mounting is perfect in the cockpit – if we’re ready to head out on a trip, we just grab it off the mounting, stick it below, grab the one in the salon as well just so everyone feels more comfortable that no one is watching us, and off we go! ![Arlo-on-sailboat-web-subscriptions](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-web-subscriptions.png) Arlo is a cloud based video service, so the videos and images are not stored on the base station or the cameras. It requires an internet connection, and they are sent to your account online. You get 7 days of history and 5 cameras for free, and you can upgrade for more history, more cameras, and analytics features. I use the free version. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-web-interface](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-web-interface.png) The interface gives you a view of your cameras as well as the ability to control the base station alarm, which is extremely loud! You can be alerted by push notifications to your phone or emails. Any notifications will show up on the camera page, and in the Library. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-Arlo-on-sailboat-web-library](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-web-library.png) \[ Here you can see some videos that were captured based on movement (me arriving at the boat) and stored in the library. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-web-mode](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-web-mode.png) You can set different modes which controls what happens to the cameras when they see motion, hear noise, etc. The defaults are pretty straight forwards, but you can also configure pretty granular scenarios and adjust the sensitivity, fire off the siren alarm, and more. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-web-camera-settings](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-web-camera-settings.png) The cameras themselves have a decent amount of options, although I have had AXIS and Mobotix cameras with far more control. However, this should suffice for most use cases. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-web-camera-detail-settings](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-web-camera-detail-settings.png) You can pop up a test screen that is live while you install things, and override the automatic settings for video quality (will burn more battery if you increase it) and adjust Night Vision and such. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-mobile-app](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-mobile-app.jpg) Arlo’s mobile app is what I use more than the website to quickly check on things, and deal with any alerts. It loads fast, works well on both Android and iOS, and has all of the features from the website. ![Arlo-on-sailboat-mobile-app-library](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/Arlo-on-sailboat-mobile-app-library.jpg) One common thing I do with the app is to look at historical clips, and also change the mode when I am leaving/arriving so I don’t set off alarms and the cameras. One thing to note is that these cameras saved me from a problem boat neighbor. In fact, I moved slips because the cameras showed me what was going on. Essentially, a brand new sailboat neighbor took over a vacated slip next to Grace, and began living on their boat with 3-5 additional people. This was a small 25-28′ boat and definitely did not have room for that many people. Our marina strictly controls liveaboards as well, and these folks weren’t part of that group. They treated the finger pier in between us like their personal garbage dump, making it almost impossible to get to my boat. They also had bikes, skateboards, and other things that I saw several times roll off and hit my boat. After multiple complaints to my marina, and showing them the videos, I moved, and they talked with the owners. I haven’t seen them on their boat since. Above you can see an example video of when we recently had 35 knot winds and nasty waves and rain coming through Seattle. The video is pretty clear, and I can see if things are loose in the cockpit and other general areas. If you hop into the website or app, you can trigger live view, and also record it, which is what I did here. Here’s me arriving in the cockpit, and the motion sensor going off to catch me. Here I am making my way into the salon during the same arrival, and turning off the cameras. Night vision is pretty impressive with the Arlo cameras. Many others that I have tested have had very poor distance and quality when using infrared or other technologies. Here you can see the cockpit on a rainy dark night. Being able to check the interior at night is always nice as well. Every once in a while I catch a visitor in the cockpit. Overall, I am very pleased with the cameras. The quality of the video is great for my needs, the battery life very respectable (3-6 months depending on usage), and mounting/unmounting when underway is easy and quick. They don’t take up tons of bandwidth, and give me peace of mind – I can flip them on whenever I want, from wherever, and they are watching for any suspicious activity, day or night. I would definitely recommend them for anyone looking for security cameras on a boat or anywhere else for that matter. ### AMEC WideLink SOTDMA AIS Transponder URL: https://seabits.com/amec-widelink-sotdma-ais/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:27:53.000Z I have had a lot of [AIS](https://seabits.com/tag/ais) transponders on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) and [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy) over the years, most recently the Vesper XB-8000\. But after months of repeated issues with the Vesper, I decided to look at whether there was any new technology or up-and-coming company that might dethrone Vesper from the top. Vesper did correct the issue I was having, but I still was interested in something new. I always start my research with [Milltech Marine](http://milltechmarine.com/?ref=seabits.com) where I have bought my AIS equipment from since 2007! I found an [old post about my first SR-162 receiver](https://seabits.com/ais-receiver) from way back then during a recent site cleanup. It has been 10 years of AIS for me, which seems like a long time… I noticed that there was a new type of Class B AIS transponder using SOTDMA, which stands for Self-Organizing Time Division Multiple Access – the same method Class A uses. You can read a more technical overview [on Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-organized%5Ftime-division%5Fmultiple%5Faccess?ref=seabits.com) but essentially this technology allows for more frequent and intelligent AIS broadcasts of boat data to others using AIS receivers. Why is this important to me? Where I tend to sail, in Seattle and usually starting out in Elliot Bay, is very busy with multiple ferry routes, container ships, Argosy cruise boats, and more. Being “seen” more frequently by other AIS devices will increase my chances of not having an issue with anyone else. I have seen a bunch of what clearly are Class B AIS boats come and go on my display while in the bay because there is just too much traffic on the VHF channels used for those updates, and the Class A boats are taking up most of the available “space”. Class A AIS transponders generally have been using SOTDMA for quite some time, so this technology is not new, just never before available to us lowly Class B users. The unit I ended up choosing was the [AMEC WideLink B600](https://www.milltechmarine.com/AMEC-WideLink-B600-Class-B-SOTDMA-AIS-Transponder%5Fp%5F392.html?ref=seabits.com), specifically the “W” model that includes WiFi – that is important to me as I use a Raspberry Pi on board [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace) to [grab AIS data and submit it to various services online](https://seabits.com/ais). Not only did it use SOTDMA, but it can transmit at 5W, compared to only 2W for the Vesper – that is a considerable increase in power. Here’s a quick overview of the big differences between Class A and the two versions of Class B transponders: ![ais-type-details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2019/03/ais-type-details.png) Note that the data is not always transmitted at those rates – in many cases it is \*\*much \*\*slower / less frequent if you are using Class B because the airwaves are busy. In addition, each transponder is setup to transmit your dynamic data less frequently if you are not moving, moving slowly, or many other cases. That’s completely OK by me – there’s no reason to spam the airwaves with my boat location when I am at the dock. However, I have seen it take longer than 10 minutes for my boat data to start showing up while moving at a decent speed, or very infrequent points on my track lines with CSTDMA Class B transponders. SOTDMA should help with this. ![AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-top-on-wood-sideways](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-top-on-wood-sideways.jpg) Milltech programmed my new unit, and it was on my doorstep in the next day or so – shipping from across Puget Sound doesn’t take that long! The unit is good quality plastic build, and is clearly labeled and easy to identify parts and pieces. The manual and included information is good and easy to understand. One oddity is the power cable – instead of a single postive and negative lead for power, you have four total wires. Black and yellow are ground/negative, and brown and white are positive. I’m not sure why this is the case, but it did require a bit more work for someone who is color blind. Milltech only lists software for programming this unit for Windows, and a “call us” note for Mac. After a bit of sleuthing, I found the manufacturer, Alltek Marine, and a [downloads section](http://www.alltekmarine.com/support%5F1.php?keyword=B600&ref=seabits.com#aa) that had a Mac client. It worked OK, definitely not the same level of quality as Vesper, which you will find not only with the software, but their mobile app and interface on the unit itself. I had issues knowing what I could click on and configure, and several times where I had to exit the app and start over as things weren’t responding. The PC application is better, but not overwhelmingly much. I set mine up using the provided USB cable – I wanted to configure it to be a client on my existing WiFi network. You can set it up as a WiFi access point if you don’t have a network on your boat as well. Again it was a bit finicky getting the UI to configure things the right way. Referring to the manual helped me. Once that was completed, I connected all of the other cabling connections and moved it to the final mounting spot. ![AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-LEDs](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-LEDs.gif) The LEDs are bright and clearly labeled. Compared to the Vesper and several earlier solutions, this is a nice change – I can simply glance at the unit and know if everything is working fine. With the Vesper it requires an app on the phone or PC/Mac which takes far more time than a glance. There is a status light on the Vesper, but it is a single LED and I have yet to remember what the flashes and colors mean. In addition, there is an integrity check of sorts that occurs for various functions of the unit, and if any of them are in a failed state, the error light comes on. One of those is too high of a VSWR on the VHF transmitting antenna, which is a great check to have in place. This would mean you are not likely transmitting your location effectively (or at all) because your antenna or cabling sucks or is broken, or some other reason. Really, I don’t care what the reason would be, I just care that my data is not getting out to other people, which is one of the main points of the unit. A quick glance to see that error light on is a great way of knowing whether things are OK. ![AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-SD-card-slot](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-SD-card-slot.jpg) There is an SD card slot for logging voyage data, which is a nice thing to add. I personally use the [Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder](https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/) for that functionality, but it is nice to have built into another box if you don’t have one of those. ![AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-antenna-connections](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-antenna-connections.jpg) There are two connections on one end of the unit for your VHF and GPS antennas. You’ll notice I have a converter on my GPS connector – I had an existing GPS antenna on my stern pole and didn’t want to have to run a new cable through the deep bilges and up the pole. Doug @ Milltech Marine was kind enough to remove the GPS antenna from the bundled kit and add a converter for my antenna cable. I have a dedicated [Shakespeare 5250-AIS Skinny Mini antenna](http://shakespeare-ce.com/marine/product/5250-skinny-mini-vhf-ais-antenna/?ref=seabits.com) on the stern pole loop which is connected to the AMEC unit. I have seen a marked improvement in this dedicated antenna in the last 8 months of usage compared to a splitter + mounted VHF antenna setup. Having a dedicated, correctly tuned AIS antenna makes a big difference and I recommend that to anyone who is installing an AIS setup from scratch. ![AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-power-plugs](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/12/AMEC-WideLink-B600-CLASS-B-SOTDMA-AIS-TRANSPONDER-power-plugs.jpg) On the other end are connections for the power cable, NMEA 0183 and 2000, and the USB port I used to configure the unit. You can use this port connected to a PC for navigation purposes if you so choose. Of course, similar to other AIS transponders, it puts all of the data it gleans onto your NMEA 2000 or 0183 network so the rest of your devices can use it too. I like having a backup GPS source from my AIS transponder just in case my main MFD has an issue. By default, the system also will output a NMEA 0183 compatible data stream on port 3333. This is useful for apps and devices that need a data stream, although I use my [iKommunicate](https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/) for that. So far the unit has been running for about 2 months without any issues. Early on I had some odd issues using `aisdispatcher`, the software I use to grab AIS data and submit it out to various services, but that seems to have gotten better. I have had the boat out a few times with the new transponder, and as far as I can tell from watching [marinetraffic.com](http://marinetraffic.com/?ref=seabits.com) and several other sources, I seem to appear faster than before, and have good quality track information more frequently than before. The real test will be during the busy season in summer. If you are in the market for an AIS transponder, or in a busy area and are considering upgrading, the AMEC is a great choice to get the higher transmit power of 5W, as well as the more intelligent and speedy 5 second update frequency. ### NavPod to PowerPod - saving the helm station URL: https://seabits.com/navpod-powerpod-saving-helm-station/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:30:23.000Z My helm station has always been an area of continued improvement. When I first bought [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) in 2015, she had no chart plotter or other instruments – only older Raymarine ST series depth and wind instruments. I [added a bigger angle guard and NavPod](https://seabits.com/new-pedestal-guard-and-navpod/) to allow for mounting more instruments, and for crew convenience. The last 6 months of longer trips had shown a flaw in this design – constant cracking noises and screws coming loose that held the helm station together. After the last long trip, serious damage was starting to look likely, so I decided to pull apart the entire setup and figure out what had happened. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/NavPod-with-axiom-vulcan.jpg) On first inspection, it appears that the way I attached the angle guard in the base of the helm station was not enough to overcome the massive forces of a person grabbing it to haul themselves up. That combined with the extra wide NavPod that I had attached and the instruments therein just made the situation worse. Instead of the load being transferred to the two through bolted points lower on the angle guard, it was being sent to the top of the helm station and directly to the four screws that held the top down, not load bearing points. The original design of the angle guard was to be mounted somewhere low, preferably through or the deck, in the steering area. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get it attached that way, and ended up doing through bolts at several places – mid way down the station, and at the bottom. Apparently that was not enough. A few months before, I had also [added an even wider, heavier NavPod](https://seabits.com/haul-out-chart-plotter-sail-cover/) to accommodate my [new Axiom](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/) as well as a B&G Vulcan. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/Pedestal-with-NavPod.jpg) The first iteration had a slightly smaller NavPod, but the angle guard was the culprit – it was just too tall, turning into a big lever, and not connected to solid enough points down inside the helm station. After some discussions with various folks, we came across the idea of displacing the rather large compass seen in the picture above, and using that as a base for instruments. Off I went to [Ocean Equipment’s website](http://www.oceanequipment.com/?ref=seabits.com) looking for a new NavPod! Unfortunately, I could not find something pre-built that would work perfectly, so I dashed off an email to Reed @ Ocean Equipment. Within a day, he had answered with a number of options, including System Pods mounted on the tees coming up out of the station, and a far more elegant solution of using a PowerPod, [model PP4800-07](https://navpod.com/product/pp4800-07/?ref=seabits.com). PowerPods are usually not meant for sailboats, and this particular one has a base that is way too large for the 7″ opening where the compass resides. I have worked with Ocean Equipment for years both on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) and previously on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), and absolutely love their products. They also have stellar customer support. Reed had started the conversation on design, and suggested that they could put a smaller base (P/N PB49R) on the PowerPod which would fit perfectly with my opening. Marc, the Operations Manager, also got involved given my short timeline (leaving for a trip in a few days), and went down to the shop floor and put something together. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/NavPod-base-mounted.jpg) After sending a couple of pictures my way, and chatting on the phone, Marc grabbed all of my info, and rushed through a “build” of this custom unit to ship overnight. I can’t say enough of how nice it is to deal with folks versed in customer service, and willing to do something custom to make it work for my setup. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/NavPod-base-with-station-in-background.jpg) The unit arrived quickly, and after removing the compass, I started my install. I removed the big plastic nut that held the base to the upper section, and installed it using the four provided security screws directly to the opening left by the compass. I reinforced underneath the edges with a 3″ thick wood criss-cross structure that allows the screws far more to bite into, and prevents any side to side movement. Pulling the wires up through the base was super easy, even through the wood structure. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/Raymarine-90-degree-connector.jpg) In order to use this NavPod with my [Raymarine Axiom MFD](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/), I had to order [Raymarine P/N R70561](http://www.raymarine.com/multifunction-displays/axiom/accessories/?ref=seabits.com), a right angle connector for the Axiom. I got mine from [WMJ Marine](https://www.wmjmarine.com/r70561.html?ref=seabits.com) – they seem a little difficult to find. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/NavPod-open-and-mounted.jpg) Putting the top shell on was quick and easy, making sure to get the nut tight to the same amount of turns that it came from the factory, the washers in the right place, and the set screw for the nut in the same hole. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/Axiom-back-mounted-in-NavPod-front.jpg) Mounting the Axiom was pretty painless. The hole was pre-cut, which I highly recommend – I’ve tried cutting holes in this material, and you have to have patience and make sure you don’t get your blade too hot, or things will melt weirdly. Plus, nothing I have ever cut in my life ends up straight, and the folks at Ocean Equipment have far better equipment to make beautiful, clean cuts with just the right amount of space. The Axiom has brackets that attach to the back of it and slide over screws that can be tightened down quickly and easily. No holes or screws from the front of the unit required, which is a nice change from many other manufacturers, including older Raymarine kit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/NavPod-and-Axiom-mounted.jpg) A couple of power connections later, I mounted the front face to the back with the provided screws and special driver, and things looked a lot shorter and safer than before. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/NavPod-and-Axiom-mounted-twist-from-angle.jpg) One of the benefits of the PowerPod is that I can rotate it left and right if we happen to be sitting on a particular side. That has been pretty convenient when at the dock or anchor so I can keep an eye on things. The left over tees from the angle guard still have open holes out their tops. One I am contemplating repurposing with the Raymarine USB extension so I can access the SD card to do updates and such. The other I will probably close off. Both tees will be left in place, and I will be attaching drink holders to them that hang down into the pre-built, uselessly small drink holders below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/NavPod-mounted-back.jpg) What is really nice is the height. While I could look under the previous NavPods while seated, it wasn’t as optimal as having a smaller unit. It also is not something that people are going to grab to get up, thereby solving the problem that started this whole adventure – saving the helm station from being ripped apart. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/Bolt-and-nut-in-driving-station.jpg) One of the other problems with the helm station, which was present before I bought Grace, was the four screws that held the top section to the lower section. These should never have been screws – screwed through holes through the outer and inner portion of fiberglass. Over the years, they had worn the fiberglass away, and the previous owner put larger screws in the holes – probably several sizes over the lifetime of the boat. I wanted a better solution, so I replaced them with bolts, and epoxied a nut and washer on the inside so that the bolts could be removed easily, and items under the top serviced easily. Serviceability is important here as the engine control panel, instruments, engine throttle/gear control, steering, autopilot, and STNG-to-NMEA 2000 converter are all inside the helm station. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/Bolt-and-nice-washer.jpg) A nice wide inset washer hides the hole from the previous setup, as well as provides some additional coverage and strength. Now I can get in and out of the top of the helm station easily. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/NavPod-and-Axiom-mounted-low-angle.jpg) There’s one final install bit that I have not completed yet – replacing the compass. The plan is for this to be mounted in the access panel behind the wheel about halfway down the helm station. Ritchie has several nice bulkhead mount options that have various lighting and options. I’m still doing some test fits before choosing the model, but I’m sure one will work out well. In some ways, this might be easier to use in this location than the original! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/Sun-on-shiny-Beneteau.jpg) While I was completing this install, I was constantly looking at the recent wash and wax job provided by Splash N’ Detail. I have never seen any boat I have owned look so clean and absolutely stunningly reflective. It almost looks like it is fresh out of the factory. I swear half the time I work on projects I spend gazing at the beautiful sights in the marina or wherever I’m at. I suppose that is part of the fun of owning a boat and working on it yourself! ### Lighthouse 3.2 - Navionics auto routing and Fusion audio support URL: https://seabits.com/lighthouse-navionics-auto-routing-and-fusion-audio-support/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:35:13.000Z Raymarine continues to release updates to Lighthouse 3 on a fairly aggressive schedule. The latest is version 3.2 which includes support for three things I was very interested in – Navionics dock-to-dock autorouting, Fusion audio support, and upgrading other Raymarine devices. The update was released in late September 2017 and I have been using it for a bit over a month with a few issues. In addition to the features above, the release includes a bunch of updates to sonar features, wireless streaming of Axiom to a TV or other device, C-MAP integration (which might be more important with the purchase of Navionics by Garmin) and more advanced map options. You can find out more details on all features on [Raymarine’s support site](http://www.raymarine.com/multifunction-displays/lighthouse3/v3-2/?ref=seabits.com). > Make sure to check out my review of the [Raymarine Axiom chart plotter and Lighthouse 3.0](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/) for more in depth pictures on the Lighthouse and Axiom initial release, [Raymarine Lighthouse 3.1 – autopilot goodness](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-3-1-autopilot-goodness/), [Lighthouse 3.3 – AIS and radar updates](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-3-3-radar-and-ais-plus-more/), and the [latest on v3.4 with apps like Netflix, Spotify, bluetooth support and more](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-v3-4-apps-bluetooth-find-nearest-and-more/) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-boat-icon-wind-and-speed-icons.jpg) Lighthouse 3.2 showing wind speed/direction and travel It’s good to see features coming back to the 3.x series that we had in 2.x. Above you can see a yellow teardrop showing the direction that the wind is coming from, as well as the speed in knots. There’s also a matching arrow further along showing the direction of boat travel and speed (I’m sitting still). This feature existed in a slightly different way in 2.x – I like how clear the data is in 3.x. Clicking and holding on your boat icon will allow you to change what overlays show up. # Navionics Autorouting ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-autoroute-popup.jpg) Starting an autoroute course Navionics dock-to-dock autorouting is back, which makes me very happy. For shorter day trips, I have come to rely on this feature for quickly routing us to a particular destination depending on where we are at the time. To start a route, you click on your destination on the map, and choose “Autoroute to here”. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-autoroute-working.jpg) Autoroute building a route Make sure you have your boat properties setup correctly so that autoroute is aware of minimum depth, beam, and height. Once you have the destination chosen, Navionics will start building the route. I’ve noticed that it is more sensitive than I remember 2.x being, and won’t create a fully auto routed course. I think it might have something to do with the minimum depths having been updated, or the logic that is used in the new version for determining minimum safety. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-autoroute-finished-build.jpg) Finished route One the route is completed, you have the same options as before to simply follow the route, or to edit in first. There’s a lot more red warnings in 3.2 than I remember in 2.x. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-autoroute-finished-route-with-squares.jpg) Completed auto route The automatically created route appears to work just like a normal route, and worked with my testing just fine. I’m glad to have autorouting back again, but look forward to all of the other Navionics features from 2x – like plotter sync (the ability to build a route on an iPad and send to the MFD, or vise versa) and the ability to update my Navionics subscription from the MFD. Since my Axiom has the SD card in the back of the unit, and it is mounted in a NavPod, updating the card requires a 20 minute uninstall process to get to the card, and then manually update in a computer. Both of these features are scheduled to come out very soon according to [Raymarine’s FAQ page](http://www.raymarine.com/multifunction-displays/lighthouse3/faqs/?ref=seabits.com). # Fusion Audio Support ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-fusion-bluetooth-song-names.jpg) Fusion audio control Fusion audio control is also back in 3.x and looks pretty good. Control in 2.x always seemed a bit clunky with sub menus and weird clicks required to change multi-zone volumes. We used it on Grace constantly to control the music around the boat, and people had to learn the quirks to use it, which is never a good sign. This version has a lot more information presented in a much, much easier way to see and interact with. Above you can see the three zones on the left, and the song details and volume control on the right. I am playing a song from a Bluetooth connected iPhone running Spotify, which sends along song names and details. You can even change whether to play normally, shuffle, and quickly scan through a song, all things that were very difficult if not impossible to do in 2.x. The icons are very straightforwards, and everything is easy to understand and use. I was not able to setup any overlays on chart pages because of the instability I cover below. I hope this is an option or on the roadmap. Having to switch to a separate screen, or to give up 1/2 or 1/4 of my screen to a dedicated panel for the radio is inconvenient. I would like an overlay item on the chart/radar screen just like every other manufacturer has. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-fusion-aux-in.jpg) Aux in control Most of the time, we use our [Amazon Echo](https://seabits.com/amazon-echo-dot-perfect-sailboat/) to control the music, and both connected via the AUX in or via Bluetooth, it doesn’t share the song information. Still, you can control the volume in the different zones, and simply yell at her to change the song if desired. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-fusion-radio-station-favorites.jpg) Radio station favorites Radio station favorites can be saved and recalled from the interface as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-fusion-input-choices.jpg) Fusion input choices Choosing an input is much easier as well, with nice icons associated with each one. The theme for 3.x continues in 3.2 of having much more thought out UI/UX experience, and making how you interact with the boat and the product much simpler and clearer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-fusion-no-audio-device-found.jpg) Still not reliable However, even with all of these improvements, I have yet to get my Fusion radio to work more than a few minutes before my Axiom can no longer find it. I’ve tried isolating the devices, checking the NMEA 2000 network, doing debug logs, and more, but everything points to the Axiom / Lighthouse 3.2 being the problem. I [posted in the Raymarine forums](http://forum.raymarine.com/showthread.php?tid=4145&ref=seabits.com), and it sounds like they are aware and should have a fix, but it is disappointing having waited 6 months for the support to be re-added, only to have it not work. B&G/Simrad has had it working for 4+ years (or maybe longer) and even on their older software was as functional as what Raymarine is doing now. # Wireless Display ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-wireless-displays.jpg) Wireless display setup I was very excited about this feature, which I envisioned using to show the MFD display on the salon TV when we are at anchor or otherwise not moving. Unfortunately after testing it with various devices including the native casting in my Vizio TV (not Miracast supported), a Roku which does support Miracast, and several other iterations of random devices I had lying around, I could not get the MFD to see the cast devices on the network. I am waiting for an answer from Raymarine on this. # Software Upgrades ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2-software-updates-to-devices.jpg) Software updates for all Raymarine devices It is great to have the ability back to update your software on other Raymarine devices from the MFD. I have i70 displays, SeaTalk to NMEA 2000 bridge, and the whole Evolution Autopilot system (3 components) which all require updates at one point or another. Now I can do that again from the MFD, and it allows a bit more granular control than 2.x. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/11/LH-3.2.97-to-3.2.101.jpg) Bugfix upgrade? While I was taking some screen shots of this new interface, I was shown there was an update to v3.2\. I had installed the initial release which was 3.2.97, and a new version, 3.2.101, was being offered. Unfortunately instead of an incremental update, I was faced downloading a 688MB file which I didn’t have time to wait for. Raymarine should learn from Google, Apple, and everyone else that incremental updates between build numbers should be smaller files – not the entire OS as it appears above. Boats have less bandwidth than most places, and this just adds insult to injury. I’ve already downloaded the new version and will be testing it shortly. **Update**: I was notified by Raymarine that the 3.2.101 version fixed a number of WiFi issues, potentially including the issues I have been having with my Quantum radar. I have updated to the new version, but still see instability with the radar. I will post here if that changes. # More good stuff, still bugs 3.2 is a decent update, mostly feature parity work with 2.x, which is good to see, along with a few new items. However there are still significant stability issues with many 3.x features – I am [still plagued by a completely unreliable Quantum radar](http://forum.raymarine.com/showthread.php?tid=3909&ref=seabits.com), a radio I can’t control, and random reboots and issues. While it’s great to see features coming back, it would have been better to see stable, core features at release, and new innovative features coming out now. Hopefully that will happen in the next few months as the final parity work is completed, and v3.3 is released on older MFD hardware. ### T-Mobile international change will affect boaters URL: https://seabits.com/t-mobile-international-change-will-affect-boaters/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:36:57.000Z T-Mobile [announced a few days ago](https://support.t-mobile.com/docs/DOC-36619?ref=seabits.com) that the unlimited benefit available while roaming in Canada and Mexico is changing significantly. There are two main changes – the overall monthly data allowance has shrunk considerably, and the speeds have been dropped from LTE to 3G once you hit that limit. This is a major about-face on the feature itself, which was highly touted when the T-Mobile One Plan was rolled out a year or so ago. I switched all of my personal lines, including the dedicated LTE connection Grace, to T-Mobile because of the T-Mobile One benefits. My main reasons for switching was cost, the improved LTE speeds and coverage around the Salish Sea and in the San Juan Islands, as well as the much higher data allowances than AT&T and Verizon. Roaming while in Canada was a secondary reason, but I still considered it when switching, and used it this last year when up in the islands and closer to Canadian towers. ## AT&T and Verizon I had used Verizon and AT&T for years prior to switching to T-Mobile. With AT&T, I had a group plan that allowed 30GB of data transfer per month for all lines, including 3 iPhones and the boat, for around $300\. We routinely went past the 30GB limit, as we are heavy mobile users, and were penalized with overage charges for every additional 1GB of data transfer. Some months our bill was in excess of $600, and traveling to Canada, which is the most likely location for us to visit internationally, costs even more. Verizon’s costs were similar if not higher. Coverage has been an issue with T-Mobile in the past, but after using AT&T & Verizon for the previous 5 years, coverage was becoming less of an issue, and speed started becoming a bigger issue. Almost everyone I knew had personal phones on T-Mobile, and after playing around with several of them, I was really impressed with the throughput and speed. Coverage had also improved throughout the San Juans and also around the Salish Sea, which made the decision much easier. ## Switching ![Peplink MAX Transit showing LTE-A](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/10/Peplink-MAX-Transit-showing-LTE-A.png) Peplink MAX Transit showing LTE-A Then T-Mobile came out with the One plans, offering 2 lines for \~$120 with “unlimited” data, international coverage, special international speeds and unlimited data in Canada/Mexico and a host of other things. I switched soon after, and have been very happy with the service. When I’m out on the water, I can’t really see much of a difference between AT&T, Verizon, and T-Mobile in the Salish Sea and San Juans. I know once you get out further away from things that it could be more of an issue. In dense metro areas, such as Seattle, coverage can sometimes be a challenge in high rises and buildings, but that is where WiFi calling fits in, and I actually prefer it when at home and work. Sam, Kevin, and Laura over at [Slowboat.com](http://slowboat.com/?ref=seabits.com) made an [epic journey up to Alaska](http://slowboat.com/2017-flotilla-to-alaska/?ref=seabits.com) this year, and I suspect they used a decent amount of T-Mobile bandwidth where available, although it sounds like in discussions with them that AT&T worked better in the boonies. The “unlimited” data is the biggest benefit of the One plans. It’s not truly unlimited, which is in-line with every other carrier who has offered these mis-labeled plans recently. Instead, you get \~50GB of high speed LTE data per line (up from 28GB recently – [read more at RV Mobile Internet Resource center](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/t-mobile-raises-network-management-threshold-to-50gb/?ref=seabits.com)), and once you reach that amount, T-Mobile can slow that line down to 3G speeds in congested areas. In less congested areas, I would assume you could continue consuming high speed data. But the bigger point is that they don’t charge you for data overages! You can continue past 50GB, albeit at slower speeds, without incurring a huge bill. So not only did I go from $300 to $180 (I have more lines than the 2 promo), but I don’t have to worry about going over a bandwidth cap and getting a massive bill when someone decides to watch Netflix and falls asleep overnight. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/10/Peplink-MAX-Bandwidth-Limits.png) Peplink Bandwidth Limits With my [Peplink](https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/) MAX Transit router, I could also put bandwidth limits in place and have it switch to a different SIM card for the remainder of the month to ensure high speed data. ## What Changed? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/10/Screen-Shot-2017-10-17-at-10.11.06-AM.png) According to [this document on T-Mobile](https://support.t-mobile.com/docs/DOC-36619?ref=seabits.com), here’s what will change for those on T-Mobile One while in Canada/Mexico: - 5GB of data/month at LTE speeds (down from “unlimited or 50GB/line) - After 5GB, you’re slowed down to 3G speeds (down from LTE speeds) For T-Mobile One, once you hit that 5GB cap, you’ll be slowed to 128kbps, and T-Mobile One Plus slows to 256kbps. These speeds will still allow you to do things like email, browse the web (slowly) and do other general things. Streaming video and other more intensive stuff will be very slow, if not impossible. Turning off automatic cloud-syncing stuff and using your phones data/roaming limiting software will help. It’s still manageable, and I am glad it was not eliminated completely, but it is a change you need to plan for. For those on T-Mobile One Plus International, which is an extra $25 per month, and what I use on Grace, we remain the same as before, as far as I can tell – LTE speeds when in Canada/Mexico and “unlimited” bandwidth, which equates to the 50GB of data/month/line and then reduced speeds in congested areas. I wonder how long that will last, though. T-Mobile says: **In order to prevent usage beyond the intent of the product, we implemented a limit on the amount of monthly 4G LTE data. Less than 1 percent of people with this benefit travel to Mexico and Canada use over 5GB a month.** I find that percentage to be quite low, as I know lots of people who routinely travel to either location, are heavy mobile users, and likely burn through 5GB because they’re not sitting in a hotel or at a business using WiFi – they’re out on vacation or enjoying life, posting videos and photos, and using mobile data. I would assume most people have similar use patterns, not just people I know. I am sure T-Mobile has to pay the roaming carrier for your usage on their network, and I suspect it was a more popular feature than originally expected, and those costs were rising. ## Conclusion I’m glad you can still have free data and coverage in Canada/Mexico, but this change will undoubtedly cause problems for some people who take longer voyages – 5GB is not that much for a whole month. T-Mobile still remains the best provider, in my opinion, for the US/Canada/Mexico, as they do not charge for overages when traveling those areas. The one bright spot is the recent change to the data cap of 28GB, [moving up to 50GB](https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/t-mobile-raises-network-management-threshold-to-50gb/?ref=seabits.com), which is nice to have the additional headroom per month. I still love them because of their network speeds, free stuff, and in general more sensible approach to a service that we all use and need in today’s connected world. ### Replacing the head - the crew's favorite upgrade URL: https://seabits.com/replacing-head-crews-favorite-upgrade/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:38:07.000Z One of the most hated bits of the boat is the head. Every boat I have owned has had a unique set of steps required to make sure things “work out” for everyone involved, mainly the captain. Many guests forget half the steps, or stick things down there that should never be there. Others follow the process, but treat it like it is some sort of strength contest, and end up causing damage. No one ever says “boy I sure love the head and how much I have to do when using it”. After having completed my [Power System Upgrade](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/) last year, and seeing a third year of patterns for how we use [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), I made the decision to replace the 15 year old head with an electric one that should make the crew far happier. ![Existing head](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Jabsco-existing-head.jpg) The existing head was a Jabsco, and I am not terribly fond of that particular brand after having one on a previous boat and experiencing quite a bit of issues. They’re not horribly terrible, just not that great in my opinion. This one had a broken seat setup which tended to slide at the least opportune moment, and potentially harm the sitters, ah, person. It also slammed down as the evening wore on and folks got, shall we say, more happy. It pumped OK, but it did require a decent amount of arm strength. I had “rebuilt” the various valves and rubber stuff when I bought Grace, and it worked fine, but it was having issues every so often that made me not want to trust it. Guests other than the normal crew were a different story – they often had difficulties getting things pumped out mainly because of the crazy long pipe from the head to the tank. The other main problem was the horrible, terrible smell. After using all of my tricks to try to mitigate it, I learned that odor was probably coming from the older discharge hose. They tend to be more permeable than the newer hoses made now, and due to previous use and build up, along with the length of the pipe, I suspected most of the smell was coming from it. It tended to smell under days of heavy use, or after leaving the boat for a few days after more frequent use. ![Raritan SeaEra](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raritan-SeaEra.png) After a lot of reading and research on Cruisers Forums, SailBoatOwners.com, and many other places, I settled on the Raritan SeaEra line of heads. This has the tried-and-true macerator pump that has been used in other Raritan electric heads and appears to be very tough and easy to work on, as electric heads go. I chose the [162MR012 model from Defender.com](http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C2234284%7C2234290&id=2597701&ref=seabits.com) which includes the remote intake pump, smart toilet control panel, standard marine height, compact bowl, and quiet close seat. I looked at trying to make it higher or a bigger bowl, but it would not have fit well. This model is higher by several inches than the previous Jabsco, which is a bonus, and makes it easier to sit on. It was time to rip out the old one. ![Old head removed](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Grace-head-removed.jpg) Removing the old head was easy, albeit dirty and smelly, just like the last one I did on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/). The result was a good platform to mount the new one to, after some cleaning. The pipes were another matter. Both of them had amazing amounts of sediment inside of them, rendering them less than half their original capacity. I didn’t take any pictures as it was something I wanted out of the boat as quickly as possible. Anyone who has ever done work on head piping knows the horrendous smell and liquids that issue from them, and this was no exception. Everything up to the holding tank and to the raw water intake was removed. The plan was to replace all of this with the newest type of piping available. ![Holding tank](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Beneteau-311-holding-tank.jpg) The holding tank on a Beneteau 311 is pretty small. According to the specs it is 18 gallons, and that seems to match the one I have.It is mounted to the left of the head itself, behind a big fiberglass cowling that I could easily remove. I have a TLM100 which I wrote about in [Better Tank Monitoring](https://seabits.com/better-tank-monitoring/) that I have yet to put into the holding tank so I can know how full things are. After a recent trip where we **twice** overflowed the tank, this is a priority to install this winter. I really, really hate cleaning up from an overflowing tank. Really, really, really hate it. This space also was the perfect spot to mount the control panel and the smart toilet control box. ![Smart Toilet Control Box](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raritan-Smart-Toilet-Control-box.jpg) The Smart Toilet Control box is where the remote pump, control panel, and head motor are all connected. In addition, the main power leads from a dedicated 25 amp DC circuit breaker. I took the recommended size of power cable, went up one size, and ran those from a brand new 25 amp circuit to the box, mounted inside the cowling area. ![STC box mounted](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raritan-STC-mounted.jpg) The box fit perfectly in the little spot under the fiberglass cowling (note that the above was a test fit and not completed wiring – this was to validate locations) and will remain dry and safe. I used the existing seawater through hull and connected the included pump inline. I also bought a recommended filter and put that inline as well before the pump to protect it from sea life and junk being sucked up. I considered using fresh water or having a hybrid system, but after investigating the complex setups you should have to protect your fresh water supply, as well as additional piping, I decided to continue using raw seawater. I also have a smaller 50 gallon fresh water tank, and didn’t want to end up burning through that faster than normal on longer journeys. The control panel uses RJ45 cabling with what look like standard ends, although I’m not sure you could replace it with an off-the shelf CAT5/CAT6 cable – I didn’t look at the pinouts. The remote pump and head/macerator pump connect up to the terminal blocks which are clearly labeled. There are also sensor points and connections to an MSD and tank level sensor which I do not have. ![Control panel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raritan-STC-control-panel.jpg) The control panel was very easy to mount, although I did have to cut a hole in the fiberglass cowling. A couple of screws later, the faceplate snapped on, and it looked like it came with the boat! I love the control they give you on the panel in terms of pre-set flush cycles, plus manual overrides. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/water-saver-flush.gif) The smart toilet control was very interesting to me because you can program the length of each action – water coming in, waste going out, time in between, and differences between the Water Saver and Full Flush cycles. Above I am using the Water Saver flush which is much shorter of a cycle, and I have since adjusted it to be a bit more to our liking based on use. Having the two cycles helps save water and tank space depending on how much waste there is to get rid of. The flushes are quick and efficient, and I have had no problems once things were adjusted in having a clean bowl after any type of use. In fact, compared to the old manual system, the noise seems to be far less since someone isn’t man-handling the pump for n-number of strokes. This is especially nice since the head compartment is catty corner to the master berth – I have not been woken up in the night by someone pumping away on the old system. The quiet close seat is also a great upgrade – you could do this on any head for that matter – and makes it quiet when folks get a bit happier as the evening wears on. I have not noticed a huge amount of power usage even when off shore and engine power for a couple of days. Sure, it uses more than the manual head before, but so far it has not become a power suck, as I suspected based on my calculations before purchase. I’m sure if I were going on longer cruises without having the engine or shore power available, that would be a different situation. Friend [Steve Roberts](https://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) had a similar project, although the scope was far greater than simply replacing a single toilet and piping – he covered it in his article the [Boat Bidet](https://microship.com/boat-bidet/?ref=seabits.com). We were both trying to upgrade around the same time and exchanged a lot of useful research. Even with all of the other [projects](https://seabits.com/tag/projects/) we did in the last couple of years on Grace, this one has been voted unanimously by regular crew and guests as their favorite upgrade. I’m OK with that since it makes their time, and mine, on the boat more enjoyable. ### Raymarine Lighthouse 3.1 - autopilot goodness URL: https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-3-1-autopilot-goodness/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:39:43.000Z Raymarine released [Lighthouse 3.1](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=15032387737&ref=seabits.com) in July 2017 with a number of new improvements and fixes. I installed it a few days after it was released, and tested it out on several small trips on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), as well as a 2 week long tour of the San Juan Islands. I found a number of really nice things that were added, specifically around the auto pilot integration, and some work left to do. > Make sure to check out my review of the [Raymarine Axiom chart plotter and Lighthouse 3.0](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/) for more in depth pictures on Lighthouse and the initial release, as well as an [update on Lighthouse 3.2 with Navionics and Fusion audio support](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-navionics-auto-routing-and-fusion-audio-support/) and an update on [Lighthouse 3.3 with AIS and radar](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-3-3-radar-and-ais-plus-more/), and the [latest on v3.4 with apps like Netflix, Spotify, bluetooth support and more.](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-v3-4-apps-bluetooth-find-nearest-and-more/) The two biggest feature updates in 3.1 are Evolution Autopilot support, and sonar enhancements. Since I do not have a sonar transducer, I won’t be covering those updates, although from the videos and feature overviews, they look pretty cool. Instead, I will be focusing on the auto pilot changes. Setup of the autopilot is in the main Settings area and allows for the same or similar settings as in the Evolution p70s head unit, but far easier to see in one place. The graphical representation of Leisure, Cruising, and Racing mode (sailboat settings of course) are quite nice, along with a description of what each means. There seem to be more options for things that I don’t remember from Lighthouse 2.x, but they could have been buried deeper in places I never needed to use. I am intrigued by the debug level settings for the CCU and ACU – perhaps that is for troubleshooting by Raymarine? I completely re-ran the Dockside Wizard as well as customized the settings afterwards. Once that was done, I was ready to get out on the water and try things out! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.1-Autopilot-standby.jpg) Autopilot in standby with new Pilot panel Once things are configured, you’ll notice a ships wheel icon in the upper right of the charts display. In addition, on the left hand side, there is a new pane of information titled “PILOT”. This pane can be swiped left to hide when not in use, click the X in the upper right of the pane, or you can click the wheel icon to show/hide it as well. The ships wheel turns red when the autopilot is engaged. The individual squares within the pane allow you to command the autopilot to do something – in this case, you can steer to a compass heading of 189 true, or to a navigation waypoint. You can also see the state of the autopilot (STANDBY) and the usual bar showing autopilot “effort”. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.1-Autopilot-1.jpg) Autopilot navigating to a waypoint The most common way I use the autopilot is to use a route or set of waypoints. In the screen shot above, you can see me navigating along a route, specifically to Waypoint 31\. When you’re in Steer to Nav mode, the autopilot pane changes and shows a ton more useful information – your Bearing To Waypoint (BTW), time to Waypoint (WPTTTG) and Distance to Waypoint (DTW). In addition, you can make some quick changes – Advance to the next waypoint, stop the route, restart your XTE from the current location, disengage the autopilot completely, or steer to a compass heading instead of following Waypoints. Keeping with the theme of my [Raymarine Axiom and Lighthouse 3 first impressions](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/)post, usability is clearly something Raymarine is thinking about with these feature changes. While you can do most of them from the p70s autopilot controller, none are as quick and easy as the screen above, and not displayed as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.1-Autopilot-2-with-ship-north.jpg) Navigating to a waypoint with data boxes on I absolutely love being able to restart my XTE – another great shortcut on the panel – from wherever I am if I happen to dodge something, taking the autopilot off of waypoint/track mode, and then back to waypoint mode. In the past, this meant a crazy turn the moment you restarted track mode, and some stupid choices by the autopilot to try to get back to the artificial track course and within XTE limits. Restart XTE from here solves that elegantly by simply adjusting it as if you never off XTE. Being able to advance to the next waypoint is also very convenient and easy to select. I’ve already used it several times when I have to dodge something, and the next waypoint makes more sense to follow from that point onwards. One of the best parts about the new integration is the information and control you have at your fingertips in such a small area, and one you can show or hide very easily. Being able to see how much longer you have to the next waypoint, quickly switching modes, and all of the other data really shows how much Raymarine is thinking about how we use their products, not just ensuring that the basic features are there, but burying the functionality 5 clicks deep. As easy as iPads are to use with apps like Navionics, it is great to see a main-line manufacturer realize they have the same opportunities to make what we do easier. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.1-Autopilot-course-auto.jpg) Locked to a heading Quickly changing to “Steer to Hdg” is usually the way I dodge something. Once you enter that mode, you are given the heading you’re on, plus the usual 1 and 10 degree course change controls, as well as a way to flip back to steering to navigation points. Very nice to have those controls directly on the screen. In Lighthouse 2.x you could make course changes, but only in 1 degree increments, and even then there was a significant lag that always made me search for the p70s head instead. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/LH-3.1-autopilot-navigation-disengage-photo.jpg) Popups Capturing a screen shot of one of the other nice features is impossible with the built in screen capture functionality. Instead, I’ve had to snap photos with a camera which results in slightly worse images. In the picture above, I have clicked “Disengage” and a popup has appeared titled “Disengage pilot”. Clicking on that confirmation disengages the autopilot, and you’re done. In the past, there were multiple other OK boxes you would have to dismiss, and especially with Lighthouse 2 and the p70s, beeping and boxes on both of them that routinely got out of sync, requiring you to dismiss both of them. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/LH-3.1-autopilot-engage-steer-to-heading.jpg) Engaging the autopilot while steering to a heading The popups are used in many situations. It seems to have cut down on the number of clicks or button pushes that I had to do in Lighthouse 2 with both the p70s autopilot head and the chart plotter. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/LH-3.1-autopilot-engage-steer-to-nav.jpg) Engaging the autopilot to a navigation point When engaging the autopilot in Navigtation mode, you’ll get a popup to confirm along with a handy display of which way and how much the boat will turn. In the example above we’re turning to port 20 degrees. Another nice usability touch. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/LH-3.1-autopilot-navigation-goto-options.jpg) Multiple options when navigating There are a number of other enhancements with multiple choice options that are far more clear than they used to be. Above you can see I can choose to turn to port to a waypoint, maintain my heading, or disengage the autopilot altogether. Nice big boxes at the bottom of the Axiom screen, and when you click one, you get one of the popups confirming that you want to continue, so there’s no accidental clicks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/LH-3.1-autopilot-route-complete-options.jpg) Route complete options When you’ve completed a route, you’re given choices as well – here we can maintain our current heading or disengage the autopilot. In previous versions, you had to acknowledge the route was complete, but the autopilot simply went into heading mode at that point unless you manually put it in standby. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/LH-3.1-autopilot-route-complete-maintain-heading.jpg) Route complete, maintain heading, engage popup And if you choose to maintain your heading, you have to accept a popup just like everywhere else. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.1-Rolling-Road-with-Data.jpg) Rolling road while navigating to a waypoint Now that the autopilot is working on my Axiom, I can also use some of the dashboards more effectively. Above you see the rolling road while I am navigating to a waypoint. It shows a lot of the same data as on the pilot data box when you’re in chart mode, plus a bit more. I prefer the chart view myself, but this is useful if you happen to be driving manually or just need more info on one big display. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.1-Navigation.jpg) Navigation dashboard I have used the Navigation dashboard a bit more than the rolling road, mainly because it adds the true and apparent wind to a nice compass, and allows you to reset the XTE if you need to. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/09/Raymarine-Lighthouse-3.1-Sailing-page.jpg) Sailing dashboard The sailing dashboard is the least useful to me right now – I know that Raymarine has said in late 2017/early 2018 that they will be releasing some sailing functionality in Lighthouse 3, and it can’t come soon enough. I still have a B&G Vulcan 5 that I keep specifically because of the SailSteer features and other sailing related niceties. ## Autopilot Integration Summary Below are my top observations with the new integration of the Evolution autopilot and Lighthouse 3: **Usability & Integration** – popups, multiple choices, and lots more thought into how someone uses the autopilot features. It also feels like the whole autopilot system is integrated together, and that you could use either the chart plotter or autopilot head interchangeably. In the past, it felt glued together. **Quickly reset XTE** – very convenient when dodging or falling off of a route on purpose, you can quickly reset XTE and not do stupid turns. **Switch between modes** – again if you have to dodge something, switching to heading mode quickly, and then back to waypoints is much faster. **Data** – having useful bits of data overlaid on the control such as distance & ETA is nice. Before you had to add those as manual data boxes that took up room on the chart screen. ## Boat Settings I’m not sure if I missed this in my [Lighthouse 3.0 review](https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/), but it is definitely something to be aware of. If you click and hold on your boat icon, a menu comes up that allows you to customize a bunch of things that used to be elsewhere in Lighthouse. I am glad to see them here, as I have thought the boat icon by default is way too large. You can customize your boat offset on the map, the symbol size for your boat (I like teardrop as it’s much smaller) and the vector length for any vectors you have turned on. You can also turn on things like heading, COG, range rings, etc. but I have yet to see some of them work. Tide and wind don’t seem to show anything at all, while COG and Heading work intermittently. Range rings is the only one I have seen work reliably, as it’s just drawing rings on the map. # Lighthouse 3.1 Challenges While the integration with the autopilot looks solid and has some great features, there are still some gaps and issues with 3.1 that I experienced. **ETAs for Routes** – this is very frustrating, and I can’t find a way to display this. It seems like a big thing to skip over when adding autopilot support, so maybe I am just not seeing where this would be enabled. In the past, when you built a route, you could have an ETA for the entire route, which I always had on the main screen. Crew would look at that throughout the journey, and though it is sometimes wildly inaccurate due to tides or speed, it is generally a good litmus point for how long we will be on the water. I can’t find a way to display this in LH 3.x **AIS Features Missing** – one of my absolute favorite parts of Lighthouse 2 was the improvements Raymarine made in R15 to the way AIS data was displayed (you can see examples of this in my [post here](https://seabits.com/port-orchard-weekend/) – scroll down a bit). I sail in a very congested area with multiple ferry routes, container ships, cruise ships, and a multitude of other things moving around. Having the CPA displayed with min and max areas, plus more, was a huge improvement that no one else as far as I know has duplicated. This was lost in the transition to LH 3 and really needs to come back soon. I have not seen much of an ETA on this one. **Radar Disconnects** – this is probably the most concerning of all. I have a Quantum radar that is connected via WiFi to the chart plotter. With my es78 Raymarine unit, it was rock solid, and I used it for almost a year without any problems. With the 9″ Axiom, it disconnects every single time I use it. Sometimes it will stay connected for an hour, other times 2, but it always eventually disconnects. [Raymarine has responded to a forum post I have made on this, but there is no resolution as of yet](http://forum.raymarine.com/showthread.php?tid=3909&ref=seabits.com). The only difference in the install is the chart plotter – the Axiom is in the same place as the es78 was, literally underneath the radome, and is using the same power, same network, etc. What makes it scary is that there is **no warning** – no alarm goes off, nothing pops up on any screen, the radar is just no longer connected. At the minimum Raymarine needs to add an alarm for this – or if I have overlooked it, make it ON by default! Hitting re-connect over and over eventually gets the radar back on, but the root of this problem definitely needs to be solved. I could run a cable to connect it directly, but that would take a whole day of cursing and creative ideas, which is one of the reasons I am using the WiFi version… Lighthouse 3.1 is definitely a great improvement over 3.0, which to me was a good start, but really was more of beta software when it comes to the amount of features they had versus their previous products. Raymarine has a long road ahead of them to get back to feature parity with that version, but if they continue with the usability improvements, I am willing to wait – at least a little bit longer. Have you used Lighthouse 3 or 3.1? Let me know in the comments! ### FixClip - the last clips you will ever need URL: https://seabits.com/fixclip-last-clips-will-ever-need/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:41:35.000Z Attaching things to random places on the boat seems like a common occurrence. If you get a towel wet, you hang it on a lifeline to dry. When the sun is melting you and your guests in the cockpit, you rig up a sheet to stave off the solar radiation. Have a line that is in the way, tie it up so it doesn’t become a problem. Up until last year, this was accomplished with bungees, clothes pins, or other fixers which inevitably failed, were lost, or just generally took more work to use than they should. Then I stumbled across [Fix Clips](https://amzn.to/2EMuTlV?ref=seabits.com), and I don’t need anything else. ![Fix Clips](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Fix-Clips-sitting-on-wood_DxO.jpg) Fix Clips Clips are not as glamorous as the other things I usually write about, but Fix Clips are a work of art from the engineering perspective. The clips have a white control or grip part, and an orange grab part. The orange part is where the magic happens – able to grip from as small as a lifeline, up to 1.25″ stainless tubing and hold something very heavy, very tightly and in a “locked” position. They don’t appear to wear out quickly, and weather the marine environment based on our use the last year. The overall design of the two materials connected together, and the utility of being able to grip something so securely is what really impresses me with their design. ![Fix Clips packaging](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Fix-Clip-package_DxO.jpg) Fix Clips packaging The clips come in a 6 pack, around $20 when I purchased them, which works out to about $3.33 per clip – a great deal. They’re made in Sweden ([http://fixclip.org/](http://fixclip.org/?ref=seabits.com)), but easily found on Amazon and other sites. The manufacturer has a funny video showing a “Storm Test” of 70-90 knots of wind with the Fix Clip working just fine. I don’t think I will be leaving my towels on the lifeline during that kind of storm, nor would I likely be on the boat worrying about them at that point, but it is nice to know it is designed to be very strong! ![Using a Fix Clip](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Fix-Clip-package-close-up_DxO.jpg) Using a Fix Clip They are specifically marketed to boaters, showing lifelines and rails, and I can say without a doubt they work just as advertised. You can see in the photo above that the white part indents in when locked – it is a very clear, clicky feeling when you do this – and the orange jaws part is essentially closed as tight as can be, unable to open. That secure locking feature is what makes them so reliable to hold things on round objects. The inner part of the jaws stretches to match the material you’re trying to hold and the underlying pole. ![Keeping the towels on the lifelines](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Fix-clips-holding-lots-of-towels-low_DxO.jpg) Keeping the towels on the lifelines I can’t tell you how many times I have dropped a towel off a lifeline because of crappy clips. My least favorite is coming back to the boat to find the towel and clips missing, wondering if some other sailor has sucked it up in their prop and is cursing me. Fix clips have a narrower bit at the top or innermost portion of the orange part that fits perfectly on a lifeline, even with a thick terry cloth towel. And I have never lost a towel even in high winds when I forgot to bring them in. You can even tug on them with quite a bit of force and they don’t budge at all. ![Fix Clip in action](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Fix-Clip-holding-towel-on-lifeline-1_DxO.jpg) Fix Clip in action The clips can also hold a lighter load over a 1″ or 1.25″ rail or other round object. I’ve used them to rig up sheets and blankets to block the setting sun, dry out hats that have been lost and then retrieved overboard while underway, and hold lines up and out of the way. The inner portion of the orange jaws flexes and bends to accommodate lumpy, weird objects up to a total of 1.3″ thick. My crew loves the Fix Clips as well and use them everywhere around the boat, even inside for hanging clothes and the like. They loved them so much I had to get three sets for the boat since it always seems we are running out with things being hung up, secured, etc. while out and about. ![Managing cables at home](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Fix-Clips-holding-cables.jpg) Temporarily holding some pesky cables until the velcro is found I’ve even gotten a set for home and use them in the car, around the house, in my office / engineering space. I like finding well designed, simple tools that help make life on the water, and elsewhere, more relaxing and easy, and Fix Clips definitely fit the bill! ### Haul out, chart plotters, and a sail cover URL: https://seabits.com/haul-out-chart-plotter-sail-cover/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:44:49.000Z [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) became part of our family in 2015 and had decent bottom paint on her during the survey. At the time, I was told she had just been painted, so I waited until this year to have her pulled again and to do some maintenance. In about a week, I leave for a 2 week stint around the San Juan Islands, so having a clean bottom and prop should help give me a speed boost for the longer trip. I also had a couple of smaller projects to complete before the trip. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/NavPod-with-axiom-vulcan.jpg) New NavPod with Raymarine Axiom 9″ and B&G Vulcan 5 MFDs. One of the most important projects to complete was installing the [Raymarine Axiom 9″ chartplotter that I discussed here](https://seabits.com/reviews/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/), and a new B&G Vulcan 5 chart plotter. I had wanted to move up from the [7″ Raymarine es78 chartplotter](https://seabits.com/projects/new-pedestal-guard-and-navpod/) I had installed for the last 2 years because of the smaller screen size, but was waiting for a few key features which came out in v3.1 of LightHouse for the Axiom, which I will be writing about in a separate post. Those came out recently, and after testing things for an evening sail with the Axiom temporarily mounted, it was time to make it permanent. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/BG-Vulcan-SailSteer.jpg) B&G Vulcan 5 with sail steer active The B&G Vulcan was of particular interest to me for a few reasons. First, it was super small yet still full featured for what I needed on a sailboat. It also has the vaunted [SailSteer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tdi88CMg0QU&ref=seabits.com) feature that I loved from [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) and my B&G setup. It also can do software updates to my [V50 / H50 B&G VHF radio](https://seabits.com/reviews/bg-v50-vhf-radio-h50-wireless-handset/), and interact with my Fusion radio, something v3.x of LightHouse has yet to support. I had ordered a new NavPod about the same time the Axiom came, and had to carve out a hole for the B&G, but other than that it was a pretty uneventful install. My older NavPod was not as tall, but was about the same width. This meant that I had to add a new tapped hole in the guard to mount the NavPod, but that was trivial. I moved over the LED light that is on the back for lighting up the cockpit, stuffed the wires through, and connected everything up. The only casualty of this move was the B&G H50 wireless handset, which had a permanent mount and charging cradle right on the NavPod. While I liked this for convenience, I had difficulties hearing it when sitting, and it took up a ton of space. I’m looking for alternatives as to where it should live. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Doyle-Cradle-Cover.jpg) Doyle Cradle Cover One of the other sorely needed updates was a new sail cover. The original was in bad shape when I bought the boat, and finally started flaking away to nothing from being in the sun too long. I had added snaps on the forward portion as the zipper had completely eroded! In addition, the boat had a weird lazy jack system that interfered with what felt like everything, and required someone futz around with it far too much while the sail was flopping around. I had a Doyle Stack Pack on Jammy, but I didn’t want something so intrusive that required the mainsail be modified. After some research and talking with friends who had similar setups, I chose the [Doyle Cradle Cover](http://www.doylesails.com/cruising/cradlecover/index.html?ref=seabits.com). Essentially it is the same concept as the Stack Pack, a zippered mainsail cover with structure to keep it open and waiting for the sail, along with lazy jacks, but it is not connected to the mainsail and can be rolled up on the boom while using the sail, which I think looks better. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Doyle-Cradle-Cover-looking-forward.jpg) The cradle cover provides much better sight forwards while in use. One side benefit I hadn’t thought of is the visibility forwards. I already love how much we can see since we do not have a dodger but without a sail cover hanging down under the boom, the Cradle Cover provides even more visibility forwards. Now I can see even more underneath the NavPod from my helm seat, and the folks on the cat bird back rail seats have a wonderfully unobstructed view. I’ve only used the cover a few times since install, but it is already a ton easier to raise and lower the mainsail – lowering in particular is a lot safer. This model of Beneteau has a positively huge boom and mainsail, and we often have to reef when the wind gets up to 20 knots, so having the ability to drop things into a waiting sail “bag” adds not only convenience, but safety for the crew on the deck. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/BC-Wildfire-smoke.jpg) Smoky start to the day due to BC wild fires I got up early on Tuesday to get Grace up to Seaview West to be hauled. The day started warm, as it has been the last several weeks, reaching the 90’s in Seattle – which is not usual for us. It also continued to be smoky from the lack of air flow and BC wild fires. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Grace-NavPod-motoring.jpg) Motoring down the fairway at Elliott Bay Marina The instruments all appeared to be working well, and I had pre-programmed a route in the new Axiom since it now supported my Evolution Autopilot, so off we went on the hour trip up around West Point. The motor was pretty uneventful, although at 8AM on a Tuesday, I had to dodge a lot of small boats out fishing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Grace-Travelift-Seaview.jpg) Grace in the Travelift at Seaview Seeing your 34 foot, 9000 pound boat fly around in the air is never a comfortable feeling, but the folks at Seaview kept her safe and really impressed with their professionalism. I had stopped coming to Seaview for years after having terrible experiences with the previous guy-in-charge. I can remember multiple times walking around Jammy and having him cite all the work that he thought should be done, getting into the $15-20k range, which was absurd since the boat was only worth about that much. Several friends had gone back in the last year and had great things to say about Seaview since that particular person retired, and they overall had stepped up their game. I had used CSR Marine a few times as well, but the hassle of dealing with a trip through the Ballard Locks on top of having stuff mucked about with the boat is nice to avoid. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Grace-wash-Seaview.jpg) Spraying off the bottom The bottom looked really, really good. Very little growth anywhere, a few barnacles in the places you would expect, but otherwise very good condition. After chatting with Andy, my service guy, I chose to do one coat of Sea Hawk Cukote (what was used previously from what I can find), Propspeed on the prop, and a nice wash and wax for the hull. I was on a tight schedule of having her back in the water on the 16th at the latest, only about a week. With how busy their yard was, I was a bit worried, but they seemed confident they could turn it around that fast. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Grace-hull.jpg) Hull after washing I was very happy with how things looked on the bottom – I don’t ever seem to remember pulling a boat and not seeing at least something that made me unhappy. So far so good! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Grace-on-stands.jpg) Grace on the stands After some master jockeying by the Travelift operator, Grace was plopped down right next to the main door into their paint building. Unfortunately due to the amount of people in the yard and my location, I would not have shore power, so I went about shutting down just about everything to conserve battery capacity so I could start my engine when I was back in the water. This is one of the downsides of having a single large battery bank, but I’m OK with the compromise. I also have a [NOCO Genius Boost Sport GB20 400 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter](http://amzn.to/2dcAaFb?ref=seabits.com) which I keep charged and on board at all times, and have actually tested in a failure scenario. This gives me the ability to try almost 15 cold cranks of the engine to get things going – my trusty Yanmar never requires more than one though. I did leave my [BoatCommand](https://seabits.com/reviews/boat-command-initial-install/) up and running with security sensors and such on, as I don’t trust boat yards for security. I also closed up everything, blanked out the windows and Zarcor doors, and removed everything of value from the cockpit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Grace-Beneteau-311-keel.jpg) Keel growth was pretty minimal The largest amount of barnacles was on the keel, but even that was tiny compared to what I had seen on previous boats. Pretty easy to scrape, sand and paint back to perfect. The prop and related bits also had some growth on it, which is not unexpected. Every boat I have had ends up with a decent amount of sea life here. I found Propspeed about 8 years ago and had used it twice on Jammy with reasonable results. For the first 6 months or so I saw a good speed boost from having the prop polished to a shine and coated in Propspeed, and it seemed to slow growth on the prop. It is not as good as bottom paint, as it eventually is either overcome with growth or just gets flung off of the prop – I’m not sure which. Nevertheless, I feel like it is a good investment when hauling as it gives you just a bit more efficiency even for only a few months. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Grace-Beneteau-311-stern-lip.jpg) Stern lip growth The other weird spot on this year of Beneteau is on the sugar scoop stern. There’s a rubber bumper that surrounds the entire edge of the scoop part, including a part that is usually submerged depending on how much weight is in the boat, as well as whether we are underway – it dips under quite a bit while under motor. The alarming thing to me was that there was a ton of significant growth you could see from above for the last 6 months or so, and prompted me to make a haul out a priority. After getting her out of the water, I can see why so much growth happens here – there’s no bottom paint on the rubber, and I doubt it would stay on if you put some on anyhow. Lesson learned is to try to brush this when washing the topsides every time to keep growth to a minimum, and that growth here does not necessarily equal bottom growth. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/08/Grace-bow-stands.jpg) Grace waiting for paint All in all a successful and uneventful haul out so far, with what looks like to be a pretty easy road to get her back in the water. I’m very happy with how little growth there is on the bottom, and how good all the through hulls and everything else look. Now I wait for Seaview to finish their work, get her back in the water, and speed-provision things for the trip up to the San Juans! ### Raymarine Axiom and Lighthouse 3 first impressions URL: https://seabits.com/raymarine-axiom-lighthouse-3-first-impressions/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:46:14.000Z [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) is mostly a Raymarine boat in terms of the key components responsible for navigation. The chart plotter, auto pilot, and helm instrument displays are all Raymarine, paired with sensors and devices providing data from many other vendors such as Maretron, Vesper, and B&G. Choosing Raymarine was deliberate back in 2015 when I bought Grace as I was looking for a very integrated suite of components that could automate the most frequent tasks on the boat while underway. > Updated articles on new Lighthouse software versions: > [Lighthouse 3.1 and new autopilot integration features](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-3-1-autopilot-goodness/) > [Lighthouse 3.2 with Navionics and Fusion audio support](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-navionics-auto-routing-and-fusion-audio-support/) > [Lighthouse 3.3 – radar and AIS plus more](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-3-3-radar-and-ais-plus-more/) > [Lighthouse 3.4 – apps, bluetooth, find nearest, and more](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-v3-4-apps-bluetooth-find-nearest-and-more/) Raymarine impressed me with the quality of hardware and software at the time, and the frequency they have come out with updates and enhancements to Lighthouse 2, their chart plotter operating system. They also had a great wheel-based autopilot that has been very reliable while underway. Recently, they announced Lighthouse 3 and the Axiom family of chart plotters. I have had the [9″ version of the Axiom](http://www.raymarine.com/multifunction-displays/axiom/axiom9/?ref=seabits.com) for a few days, and these are my first impressions. # Axiom Hardware ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-box-contents.jpg) Raymarine Axiom 9 box contents I ordered the Axiom 9″ version with Navionics charting included. I felt this to be a great size increase over my [7″ es75](http://www.raymarine.com/content/?id=12152&ref=seabits.com), which was quite small for charts at the helm. In the box you get the chart plotter with cover, manuals and literature, mounting options, and for my model, the Navionics SD card. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-with-cover.jpg) New Raymarine logo on cover This is the first Raymarine product I’ve seen with their new branding – front and center on the sun cover. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-mounting-options.jpg) Mounting brackets and options There are the usual trunnion mount and flush mount kits. The flush mount option is a bit different than what I have seen before – the two brackets in the bottom of the picture above sit on the back of the unit inside the hole you cut, allowing for a screw-less install. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-front-off.jpg) Front of Axiom 9″ unit The front of the unit is one big piece of glass, with a power button in the bottom right of the screen. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-back-with-connection-ports.jpg) Back of unit with ports On the back of the unit, from left to right, are ports for the RayNet network, USB accessory for RCR-SDUSB card reader, power/network, drain wire screw hole, and 25-pin transducer port. Above the ports is the SD card cover and slot (the black rubber rectangle). I’m worried about accessibility – I plan on mounting this in a NavPod which will require that I open it up to get to the card when needing to update Navionics, and for downloading screen shots and the like. In addition, there is only one SD slot, compared to two in my es75, which is also disappointing – I use both Navionics and Lighthouse charts on separate cards. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-power-and-network-cable.jpg) Power and network cable The power and network are combined into one cable, included with the unit. There are three wires in the power cable – one positive, one negative, and one drain wire. According to the installation instructions, the grey drain wire needs to be sent to a ground on your boat, and then a separate wire back to the drain wire screw on the back of the unit. This is the first time I’ve ever seen a unit requiring a separate ground like this, but it looks like it could be part of a new specification. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-nmea-2000-cable.jpg) NMEA 2000 network port The surprising thing about the cable is that there is no SeaTalk connector – standard NMEA 2000\. Given how much Raymarine focuses on SeaTalk for all of their other products, and that has to be a revenue source for them, it is a surprise to see a standard NMEA 2000 network connection on this cable, but I’m not complaining. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-main-screen.jpg) Axiom 9 screen The quality of the screen is better than my es75 and B&G Vulcan. Clearer picture, easier to see from more angles. That’s one thing that has always frustrated me with B&G – with polarized sunglasses on it has only a narrow field of view. Not so with the Raymarine. This unit has 800 x 480 resolution and 1200 nits of brightness. Several other vendors have higher resolution panels in products of similar sizes, but I would take a brighter screen, viewable at more angles, and with a much more accurate touch screen over a bit more resolution. While I am looking at charts constantly on this thing, I do most of my planning elsewhere where I would want higher resolution. The power button is a bit strange – you swipe across it to the right turn the unit on and off, and to pop up a quick menu while the system is running. I’m not sure if this choice was so there aren’t accidental button pushes and to not have a mechanical button for water ingress. Reminds me a bit of unlocking an iPhone. Overall the hardware is well made, solid chunky build with quite a bit of weight to it. It appears to be the high quality I’m used to seeing from Raymarine. # Lighthouse 3 Software ![Lighthouse 3 software update](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-software-update.jpg) Lighthouse 3 software update On first boot, I immediately went in and connected to WiFi to check for a software update. I was offered an upgrade of about 673MB which took a few minutes to download and install. The unit came with v3.0.57 and I upgraded to v3.0.66 (as of June 9th, 2017). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-9-screen.jpg) Upgrade weirdness – note the OK box that is across the text. I could not click OK… After the upgrade I couldn’t click OK to confirm it was updated – I had to reboot twice to get out of the screen weirdness. That’s one thing that I saw in several other places – this is definitely a new product with new software that is … not quite finished. ## Fast! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3-main-screen.jpg) Main startup screen This thing is fast! They mention it having a “quad core processor” in the marketing videos, and it definitely does not disappoint. It boots very fast, and has little animations every time you touch one of the main screen icons to launch something. Everything is smooth and quick, no stuttering, and it just feels more modern and up-to-date than most chart plotters as a result of the speed. The touch screen is also extremely accurate compared to my es-series, and other chart plotters. It is close to iPad accuracy, which is saying a lot, and makes for very quick and easy use. ![Chart screens render quickly and clearly](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3-chart.jpg) Chart screens render quickly and clearly Things everywhere are faster, but nowhere did I notice it more than in the charts. Zooming and panning around in Navionics charts is as fast as on a PC using Coastal Explorer – that is a first for me in using chart plotters. My es75 will routinely stutter when moving around in the charts, or simply take a long time to redraw everything. I have yet to get the Axiom to stutter or slow down appreciably. ## Usability The other major area of improvement is usability, and you see this everywhere throughout Lighthouse 3\. This is what excites me the most about LH3 and the Axiom platform – instead of locking you into specific areas to lay out data, or in one set of settings to use, Raymarine have really thought outside the box and made things more easy for the end user to interact with and customize. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3-my-profiles.jpg) My profiles A great example is profiles – the ability to setup preferences based on individual users. Useful to adjust things just the way you’d like, and let the next one at the helm setup their own preferences. It also appears to track the amount of time you have been at the helm. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3-data-overlays.jpg) Data overlays The other one I love is the ability to overlay data on the canvas – charts, radar, etc. Above I’ve added the sea temperature near the top of the screen. Hard to catch in screen shots, but you can resize, move them around, delete, and do all sorts of other things to them. Gone are “data bars” and other things that take up precious chart screen space all the time, or don’t allow you to move them to where you want them. I think this is my second favorite item in LH3. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3-data-overlay-selection.jpg) Data overlay selection There’s a bunch of different data bits to choose from, but there are still some missing items compared to LH2 data boxes such as battery amps and the like. Hopefully these will be added back in future software releases. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3-usability-chart-quick-select.jpg) Quick actions The other big change usability-wise, and my #1 favorite item in LH3, is the quick actions that have been placed on the various canvases. On charts, there’s a button on the top next to the man overboard button to center the map on your ship, something I have done on my es75 hundreds of times, and it takes two or three clicks/touches – on the Axiom it is one touch. In the bottom right corner, you can adjust the radar scan range with one touch, again, something that took multiple actions before. Great ways to help me do things faster and easier! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3-usability-radar-quick-select.jpg) Quick mode selection in radar There are new, clearer icons to choose modes for the radar as well – another example of usability being carefully thought through in LH3. Throughout Lighthouse 3 there are many little items that they have done to help with usability, speed to use the system, and general refinements. It feels like a modern operating system instead of something several generations behind. Below I have some basic observations about major sections and screen shots from each. ## Settings Here are a few updates / changes in Settings: - Clearer icons and navigation - User profiles & pre-built profiles - Boat type icons - Fancier display of satellites ## Charts Here are some of the things I noticed in Charts: - Faster than anything else out there - New AIS icons that are easier to understand - Data overlays are an awesome way to add custom data on your chart - Quick access to “find my boat” and radar range save clicks/time - Popup data boxes and tracking improved - Lots more options in settings for chart options -> advanced - Targets has a lot more data & some new options - Route planning has more options – fixed SOG to see estimated times ## Radar Here are some changes and updates in Radar: - Quicker access to change radar settings - Lots more settings for Quantum radar – color palette, IR level, etc. - Timed transmit – was that always there? Note: my Quantum WiFi radar has been completely unreliable since the upgrade to 3.x and the Axiom MFD. Subscribe to [my forum post](http://forum.raymarine.com/showthread.php?tid=3909&ref=seabits.com) to get updates. ## Dashboards Here are some changes and updates in Dashboards: - Much more modern / easier to look at screens - More dense screens with more spots for data - Rolling road much nicer to look at - Smoother gauges and updates ## Other I did not test fish finder settings or screens as I don’t have one. Audio didn’t work for me with my Fusion radio, and I don’t have any cameras. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-Axiom-Lighthouse-3-main-screen-audio-camera.jpg) Audio and camera # What’s Missing? ## Auto pilot There’s no control of my Raymarine EV1 auto pilot, no pop-ups, nothing. This is expected according to Raymarine, but it does limit the ability to use the whole system for navigation. > This has been released as part of Lighthouse 3.1 – read about the details in [Lighthouse 3.1 – autopilot goodness](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-3-1-autopilot-goodness/). ## Navionics auto-routing Raymarine has also made it known that this feature is not yet in LH3, but I thought I’d call it out as it is a very popular one. I use it constantly to quickly build out a route when I am out on the water and need to change something. I hope to see it very soon. > This has been released as part of Lighthouse 3.2 – read about it in [Lighthouse 3.2 – Navionics auto-routing and Fusion support](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-navionics-auto-routing-and-fusion-audio-support/). ## Audio According to various posts online, Fusion marine stereos using NMEA 2000 should work with the Axiom, but in my testing it does not. As of 5/16/2017 on the Raymarine Forums [here](http://forum.raymarine.com/showthread.php?tid=3105&highlight=axiom+fusion&ref=seabits.com), it has been stated that Lighthouse 3 does not support Fusion at this time, and it looks like this has been prioritized lower than other things. > This has been released as part of Lighthouse 3.2 – read about it in [Lighthouse 3.2 – Navionics auto-routing and Fusion support](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-navionics-auto-routing-and-fusion-audio-support/). # Conclusions I am going to be using the Axiom as my primary chart plotter even with the missing features and stability challenges. The usability improvements in Lighthouse 3 along with the larger screen make it far more useful with those issues, and I want to see the other new features and functionality that I hope will be coming. I’ll provide an update on any new features as soon as I get them! ## Pros - Bigger screen / touch accuracy - Fast - Usability - Quick settings - Data overlays - Improvements in dashboard data / density - More settings for radar ## Cons - Drain/ground wire – extra wiring required to ground the unit - SD card slot – on the back of the unit, hard to reach - Single SD card slot - New software – bugs and inconsistencies - Missing features – most of these have been addressed in [v3.1](https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-3-1-autopilot-goodness/) and [v3.2](https://seabits.com/lighthouse-navionics-auto-routing-and-fusion-audio-support/). ### Grace's updated network for 2017 URL: https://seabits.com/graces-updated-network-2017/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:48:55.000Z I originally posted a fairly lengthy article outlining [Grace’s integrated network](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/) about a year ago, but it is a work in progress and constantly changing. There have been some updates that I wanted to cover which will help the network continue to grow and expand, as well as fixes for problems I found. ![Grace's electroniGrace's electronics as of June 2017](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/Grace-Electronics-2017-June.jpg) Grace’s electronics as of June 2017 I’ve updated the network diagram to include the changes as well as more detail on the Internet Alcove and the new Radar Arch. # Problems There were several problems with the 2016 design which caused reliability and accessibility challenges. **Accessibility** – the majority of the NMEA 2000 network was behind the navigation station panel where all the instruments are mounted, which required removing it every time I had to work on the network. This caused lots of extra work to be able to unscrew and carefully remove the panel without tripping breakers, pushing buttons, or damaging anything. I am currently in the process of designing a new panel using [Front Panel Express ](https://seabits.com/front-panel-is-in/)which will condense all of the devices, swap out the factory electrical panels with more compact BlueSea solutions, and hinge the whole thing for ease of access. This isn’t 100% done yet, but it is one of the top things I am changing. **Squished** – I used standard NMEA 2000 taps off the backbone in this area, and by the time I made it through the 2016 season, there were too many back-to-back to fit in the space! **Power problems** – the dual power setup I discussed in [Grace’s integrated network](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/) was causing headaches and major reliability issues, with parts of the bus unable to see the other devices at random times depending on what was powered up when. # Updates **Removal of dual power sources** – instead of powering things for the “always on” part of the network from the Maretron tap, and the rest of the devices from the Raymarine tap at the helm, I now have one power source – the Maretron tap. This means that everything goes on all at once, but it has solved the weird power fluctuations and device disappearing problems. I liked having a section of devices that I could leave on all the time and access remotely, but the weird interactions caused outages during navigation which were dangerous. To achieve this same result, I can manually power down individual instruments and leave others on, with the exception of things like tank sensors and depth transducers. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/4-port-nmea-2000.jpg) 4 port NMEA 2000 connector block **4 port connector block** – I purchased [three of these ](http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028705%7C2028880&id=3655720&ref=seabits.com)to add to key parts of the network – two for behind the navigation panel. I considered a [version from ActiSense](http://www.actisense.com/products/nmea-2000-network/4wt/4wt.html?ref=seabits.com), but they are hard to find and expensive. I also considered the [ActiSense QNB ](http://www.actisense.com/products/nmea-2000/qnb-1/qnb-1.html?ref=seabits.com)product I used on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), but it had too few ports and was a bit bulkier than I’d like. I may still do this later this year and move some taps around as I like having a single device for the drops and the power, all integrated and sealed. **iKommunicate** – this was added last year shortly after the network was updated and I [did a review of the product](https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/). It has become one of the primary ways I get data off the network on a smart phone or tablet. **Depth/speed/temp** – the old Raymarine ST60 speed sensor started failing late in 2016\. I replaced the depth sensor (the speed sensor is a funky non-standard size) with a [Maretron DST110 smart tri-ducer](http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028692%7C2028923&id=1736430&ref=seabits.com) which includes depth, speed, and temperature. This is a no brainer for anyone with a NMEA 2000 network needing to update/replace any of those three sensors. Pretty much plug and play as long as you have a NMEA 2000 tap nearby. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-i70s-instruments.jpg) Raymarine i70s instruments **Raymarine i70s / p70s instruments** – as part of the depth sensor change out, the old ST60 instrument at the helm stopped working since it was reliant on dedicated wires providing the data to the unit from that sensor. Thankfully, even after 15+ years, the holes for the ST60 are identical to the new Raymarine i70s, so replacing them was pretty easy. I chose to hide the ST60 wind instrument under the helm, as it is still gathering data from the mast mounted instrument and transmitting it onto the NMEA 2000 network via the Seatalk1 converter. Eventually I want to replace the masthead device with a NMEA 2000 or wireless solution. The i70s are a leap forward compared to the old ST60’s of course, and it is nice to be able to display all sorts of different info depending on the “mode” that the boat is in – navigating, docking, anchored, etc. – instead of static displays. I have configured lots of different data panels depending on these modes, and love the visibility they provide. I also replaced the autopilot head with the p70s to make all three instruments consistent in look and software. The autopilot head has some minor updates from the original but otherwise is pretty close. **SmartThings** – this was added to help manage temperature and security and I covered it in [SmartThings keeps the boat warm during winter](https://seabits.com/smartthings-keeps-boat-warm-winter/). It required a connection via ethernet to the internet. **Arlo Security Cameras** – this was just recently added, and I’ll write more about it soon. Like the SmartThings hub, the Arlo hub requires an ethernet connection to the internet. I really wish manufacturers would go away from this, but I understand that for security and such you would want reliability. ![Grace radar arch](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Grace-radar-arch.jpg) Grace radar arch **Radar & Radar Pole / Arch** – this was a big project which I still plan to write about very soon. I added a Raymarine Quantum radar on top of a Garhauer radar pole and arch. It sounds so simple when said that way, but the planning and execution for the pole installation was quite intense. There were a lot of cables from other devices mounted on the arch, and things that had to shift around to make everything work. The radar itself is a fantastic addition to have for visibility, and has come in handy on several trips already. **Vesper AIS move** – prior to [heading up to the San Juans in this year’s first longer trip](https://seabits.com/seattle-friday-harbor-back-cattle-pass-drama/), I had to move the Vesper AIS. This was partly because I was [having problems with my VHF radio](https://seabits.com/proper-vhf-ends-easier-than-you-think/) and removed the splitter I had put in place last year as a temporary solution. I also wanted a dedicated VHF antenna like I had on Jammy, and was able to do this with the new radar arch. I have seen significant improvements in the quality of my AIS antenna signal as a result of a dedicated, properly terminated antenna. # Future The next big change is the installation of a Raymarine Axiom chart plotter, and a B&G Vulcan 5 chart plotter (more of an instrument given the size) at the helm. This requires a new NavPod shell, and moving some things around including the H50 wireless radio. There are a few other small projects I have planned for the rest of the year such as adding a display in the main stateroom so I can see random data when awoken at night, a new tank sensor for the waste tank and maybe fuel tank. ### Seattle to Friday Harbor and back with Cattle Pass drama URL: https://seabits.com/seattle-friday-harbor-back-cattle-pass-drama/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:52:36.000Z The first long trip of the year for [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) was from Seattle to Friday Harbor – a trip that I had been preparing for 6 weeks prior in a whirlwind of activity. Projects included adding a Raymarine Quantum radar, radar pole, new instruments and sensors, fixing the [VHF radio problems](https://seabits.com/proper-vhf-ends-easier-than-you-think/), and other items from a long list I developed last year. For the trip I had two sets of crew – two friends who went up with me over Memorial Day Weekend, and my husband and friend returning with me a week or so later – both groups would be arriving or departing Friday Harbor via Kenmore Air, a great way we’ve found to have people participate in longer voyages without having to commit to a week or more and getting a fun view from the plane on the way there/back. The projects were finished the day before (always a bad sign), boat provisioned, and I departed with Jake, JJ and myself heading towards Pt. Hudson marina on day 1. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Radar-working-underway.jpg) This was the first extended test for the Raymarine Quantum radar and it performed pretty well. I was still getting used to the various options and plan on writing up a more thorough review in the next week with better screen shots than the above. It did help us spot our next visitor… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Submarine-Dallas-with-mountain.jpg) What I believe is the USS Dallas (SSN-700) heading south to Puget Sound Naval Shipyard on her final voyage Near the Kingston ferry crossing, we spotted something in the distance that the radar saw clearly, and was not on AIS for obvious reasons. I believe this was the [USS Dallas](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS%5FDallas%5F%28SSN-700%29?ref=seabits.com)heading to Puget Sound Naval Shipyard on her final transit. Several news agencies covered it the same day indicating that it had reached the end of service life and was being decommissioned. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Submarine-Dallas-close.jpg) The Dallas is familiar to a nerd like me as being the sub used in the Tom Clancy novel and subsequent movie the Hunt for Red October. Around this time, I noticed that there was water in one of the bilges near the refrigerator – Grace has had completely dry bilges with the exception of a little weeping from the prop shaft. After investigating, I found more water in the forward bilge and started getting more concerned. After troubleshooting for a while, pumping the water into the main bilge and overboard, I came to the conclusion that it was probably the water I let in while changing my speed sensor the day before. Careful monitoring both the rest of the day and the day after didn’t show any further water coming in, and so I suspect that guess was correct. Maybe not changing a speed sensor the day before a long trip is good advice? ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Pt-Hudson-restaurants.jpg) The rest of the journey was fairly uneventful, other than the tides and currents being against us most of the way. I tried to plan as best as I could, but at one point we were stuck in Admiralty Inlet near Nodule Point making only about 1 knot of headway. I tried to find a counter current almost all the way back and across the channel to no avail. We arrived at Point Hudson Marina around 6pm after a very hot day on the water with little wind. The tides and currents would come back to haunt us on day 2. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Docs-shrimp.jpg) We had a nice dinner at Doc’s Marina Grill including some peel and eat shrimp, and then wandered into Pt. Townsend for some evening activities. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Pt-Townsend-shop-clock.jpg) I found a shop with a bunch of clocks, including this nautical one above which kept our theme of submarines going for the day. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Point-Hudson-looking-towards-Point-Wells-sunset.jpg) The sunset was amazing out towards the Strait of Juan de Fuca, which we intended on crossing in the morning. Day 2 started early, and a new moon tide was well in effect – only 9 feet of depth (or 5 feet under our keel!) while departing the marina. We watched one other sailboat of similar size leave first to make sure there was enough water. The Point Hudson marina has a piling entry with very limited visibility and a 45 degree turn, which was quite unnerving with such little water underneath – I’ve never seen it that shallow there! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Crossing-1-speed.jpg) Passing Point Wilson, the current was not only in our favor, but doubled our speed! This lasted for quite a while, and was nice to have on our side after the 1 knot nonsense the day before. Again, the current would come back to haunt us later in the day. We enjoyed the crossing and the super hot weather – almost 80 degrees on the water, and the guys were out enjoying the sun, the Olympic mountains behind us, and the San Juans starting to materialize on the horizon. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Crossing-1-sails.jpg) We were even able to put up the sails for about an hour and a half and scoot along at about 4 knots. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Orca-Boats.jpg) Right before Cattle Pass we saw a bunch of boats to the east and figured it was orcas – we were not disappointed! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Orcas-with-Mt-Baker.jpg) We kept well away from the whales and boats and took some pics with my long zoom and enjoyed watching from afar. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Cattle-Pass.png) Cattle Pass via Google Maps The drama of the day ensued next. I had planned on arriving at Cattle Pass when the tides were flowing into the islands at 1-2 knots, the best I could do with the timing of the day without having to leave at some insanely early time. We arrived much earlier than I expected because of the favorable currents all across the strait. After looking at the pass from afar, and seeing another sailboat go through about 20 minutes before us, I took us in. Within 50 feet of crossing a tide line right after Whale Rocks on the starboard side, I knew I should have waited. The autopilot was driving a course I had set right down the middle of the pass and I left it to it’s work while I started taking sightings on landmarks and various items on both sides to try to see why I was not feeling right. The speed got absolutely insane – reaching 12 knots of speed over ground. I asked one crew member to watch behind us and give me distance back to the tide line, and another to bring up the emergency supplies in case we had an issue. I really became concerned when the boat skewed to port based on the way the autopilot was driving it and continued to stay that way at about a 30 degree angle all the way through the pass. I knew that the thrust from the engine combined with the way the autopilot was driving us was keeping us going through the center of the channel. Everything felt wrong, and I could see that if we lost the engine, we would likely have to do some creative sailing to not end up too close to Deadman Island, which I assume has that name for a reason. All during this time the autopilot was driving the boat, with me carefully watching the course I plotted, hands on the wheel, and taking sightings every few seconds. We were absolutely flying through the pass. It kept us right on the course line without much of a deviation, but man was the boat pointed weird ways and behaving oddly. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Cattle-Pass-YDVR-1-minute-resolution.png) Cattle Pass YDVR 1 minute resolution There was no time to take pictures or anything else, but the [Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder](https://sailbits.comyacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/?ref=seabits.com) that I had installed earlier in the year was happily logging everything. After focusing in on the timeframe we went through the pass, and doing 1 minute averages, you can see that the current ranged from 3.46 knots to a whopping 5.52 knots, at least using the Speed Through Water (STW) and Speed Over Ground (SOG) data from Grace herself. We made it through OK, and I had the crew stand down from any emergency action, but I was really shaken and continued to marvel at how well the autopilot did. Since I replaced the old control head with the Raymarine EV1 package, I have seen more and more situations where it has done an excellent job in challenging conditions. The rest of the hour journey to Friday Harbor went by fast, again because of weird currents and tides. Rounding Turn Island and even Brown Island were fraught with weird currents that sped us along at fast rates, and was causing havoc for others heading out. We found out later on that the “new moon tide” was stranger and more intense than many people had seen in the past. Lesson learned – don’t try to go through Cattle Pass when you see weird things happening a day before, especially a new moon, and never when there’s a chance of more than 2 knots either direction. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Grace-arriving-3.jpg) Grace arriving and avoiding traffic – courtesy Steven Roberts @ microship.com We arrived to a very busy Port of Friday Harbor – it being Memorial Day weekend (Saturday) we expected some traffic, but this was unusually high. Steven Roberts of [microship.com](https://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) lives aboard at the Port and came out to take some pictures of us arriving, which we don’t often get! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Grace-arriving-4.jpg) Almost at our slip – courtesy of Steven Roberts @ microship.com We had scored a slip on C dock that proved to be very quiet and removed from the chaos on H / G dock. Docking was uneventful, and we proceeded to enjoy the 80+ degree day and the guys went in to town to check things out. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Grace-on-C-dock.jpg) Grace moored on C dock at Port of Friday Harbor The weather was spectacular through the holiday weekend, and the crew and I enjoyed meals on the boat and in town, and generally relaxed and had a great time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Torqueedo-outboard.jpg) One of the new items added to Grace before the trip was a Torqeedo Travel 1003c outboard, replacing our Mercury 3.5 HP 4-stroke gas outboard. One of my favorite things in any marina is to poke around on the dinghy and explore the different boats, fairways, coves, and nearby items. The gas outboard has been my motive power of choice for years, but they always, always have problems. The Mercury that we had was only a year or two old, and had constant fuel problems no matter how vigilant I was. I’ll write up a bit more about this after some more time on the water, but everyone seems to love how quiet it is and how easy it is to use. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Kenmore-air-Friday-Harbor-seaplane.jpg) As I mentioned above, one of the great options for crew helping me get Grace up to the islands is to fly back home on Kenmore Air. Jake and JJ both flew back Monday (Memorial Day) and I was on my own until Friday. I spent most of the days collaborating with Steven Roberts on various geeky projects, updating the Port of Friday Harbor WiFi network, and working on a ton of projects on Grace. The weather was not that great, with rain and winds every day, so I didn’t feel that bad that I wasn’t out on a mooring ball somewhere. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/IMG_1200-Edit.jpg) There were still some beautiful sunsets and moments even with the bad weather. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/IMG_1209.jpg) Other than scrapes and bruises to my own person, and some sore muscles from the projects I worked on, the only casualty was my trusty iPad. It had been my primary planning tool for all trips for over 2 years, and one evening after leaving Steven’s boat Datawake, I dropped it on the dock pier, just narrowly missing it tumbling in the water. But the damage was done, and it has been sent to the electronic recyclers. I just ordered a new iPad, and my timing was good since Apple just released a 10.5″ version, which should be a bit more screen real-estate for Navionics and other planning tools. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Josh-and-Anna-arriving.jpg) Husband Josh along with close friend Anna were the return crew for the voyage. It was Anna’s birthday only a day beforehand, and we were taking her on a cruise through the islands and back down to Seattle as a nice weekend getaway. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Friday-Harbor-sunset-before-heading-home.jpg) The weather looked good on Saturday to try crossing the strait instead of going the longer Deception Pass route, so we opted to explore town a bit on Friday and spend the night. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Rope-art-1.jpg) Rope art at Port of Friday Harbor Josh noticed some interesting rope art near our slip at Friday Harbor – the crew generally makes flemish coils to make things look all ship-shape. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Rope-art-2.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Rope-art-3-by-Josh.jpg) Josh’s rope art A few more pictures and examinations and later in the day, Josh made his own art with our ropes. I think he’s set a new bar for the rest of the regular crew, and I have to say it looks a lot more interesting than the usual coils. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/grace-departing.jpg) Grace departing Port of Friday Harbor – courtesy of Steven Roberts @ microship.com After saying goodbye to Steven, and gathering up all of the project bits and pieces, we departed for the trip home. The weather was much colder than the last week, and not a bit of sun to be found when we departed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Raymarine-i70s-instruments.jpg) Raymarine i70s instruments One of the projects I completed was to install the new Raymarine i70s displays, replacing the ST60 displays that came with Grace, and were probably installed when she was built in 2000\. One the ST60s was not displaying any useful data, as the speed/depth sensor was replaced recently. The other is hidden in the space below for now as it is still processing wind information, and putting it out onto the NMEA 2000 network. The new displays are very useful, and allow for a lot more data to be displayed at specific times. I’ll write up more about them after some additional usage. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/IMG_1240-Edit.jpg) Going back through Cattle Pass was not an issue, and the strait was also pretty boring, although the waves built as we got closer to Smith Island – 2 feet with an occasional 3 footer thrown in – all on the stern quarter, making for a barfy ride. The wind was not cooperating either, so we had to motor most of the way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/IMG_1243-Edit.jpg) Sequim cap As we got closer to Port Townsend, we saw sun all around us, but clouds directly above us. A sailor at the Point Hudson marina said something about a “Sequim cap” which I assume refers to the persistent clouds we saw above. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Grace-at-Port-Hudson-marina-dock.jpg) We arrived at Port Hudson marina around 6pm and tied up deep in the basin, with no boats next to us on the port side. There was a [rendezvous for Wauquiez owners](https://48north.com/event/pacific-northwest-wauquiez-rendezvous/?ref=seabits.com) taking up almost the entire marina including a boat from our home marina that recognized us. I hadn’t done much research on this brand, but boy do they look well built and appointed! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/IMG_1251-Edit.jpg) The sunset was spectacular from the marina, including a bit of those pesky clouds. The winds picked up in the evening, driving the temps even further down, but the bigger challenge was the 20 knots gusting to 25 in the marina, coming directly over our port side with no protection all night long. We bounced more here than I have at anchor in recent memory, and I didn’t get much sleep. The forecast was for 35 knot winds gusting to 40 in the strait later on Sunday, along with some of that spreading down Admiralty Inlet, so I opted to get going by 9AM. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/stacey_3-Edit.jpg) Grace from Fort Flagler – courtesy of Stacey Crofoot A friend was camping at Fort Flagler, and after exchanging some messages, she was able to snap a few long distance pictures of us passing by after we pushed through the tides at Marrowstone Point. I had also timed our venture down Admiralty and further to take advantage of as many currents as possible, and we were skipping along here at around 8 knots. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Sun-and-clouds.jpg) Sunday quickly developed into a beautiful day with much sun, some clouds around the mountains, and decent temps. The wind was absent for most of the middle part of the day, but we still enjoyed the sun. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Josh-on-the-foredeck.jpg) With the Beatles playing on the radio, Josh found a nice spot to relax on the glassy water near Kingston. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Radar-arch.jpg) The radar arch has started to collect items as part of the project leading up to this trip – this is another post I am working on outlining the radar itself, but also all of the items I was able to move/consolidate with the arch. And yes, I’m aware the wifi antenna (on the far right) is not positioned well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/06/Seattle-skyline.jpg) Arriving back in Seattle after 11 days It was great to be able to visit Friday Harbor for a week, spend time with local folks, friends on the way up and back, but it was also really nice to see home after being gone 11 days. The number one thing I missed was my normal sized shower. **Trip Stats** Total distance: 131.09 NM Distance Seattle -> Friday Harbor: 65.24 NM Distance Friday Harbor -> Seattle: 65.85 NM Average speed: 8.09 knots Pretty similar courses coming and going, and I will take an 8 knot speed any day on a 6 knot boat! Can’t wait for the other longer trips planned this year, and to finish writing up all of the other projects I’ve been working on. ### Proper VHF ends are easier than you think URL: https://seabits.com/proper-vhf-ends-easier-than-you-think/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T01:44:18.000Z My soldering skills are marginal at best, and as a result I have used crimp-on VHF ends for the last 10+ years. While not wanting to admit this, I finally was chatting with some radio-savvy friends of mine, and they were aghast that I had even considered using one of these abominations. So I set out to learn a better alternative without having to be a world-class solderer, or have someone do it for me. I’ve learned from years of using VHF radios that the whole system has to be in good condition for the thing to work well. You can have a really fancy radio, but a crap antenna, and be frustrated that performance or quality suffers. Same goes for the cabling from the radio to the antenna itself. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/BG-V50-VHF-front.jpg) B&G V50 VHF radio When I bought [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), I removed the really old, non-DSC radio that she came with, and replaced it with a [B&G V50 which I wrote about](https://seabits.com/bg-v50-vhf-radio-h50-wireless-handset/) a year or so ago. I still like the radio, but had been having some performance issues in the last 6 months that I had traced down to either the cable or the antenna. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/vesper-marine-sp160-antenna-splitter.jpg) Part of the system I installed with the B&G V50 was a Vesper AIS splitter, which I had to do as I did not have a dedicated AIS antenna nor place to install one. I am not a fan of using splitters on the primary radio as it adds loss and complexity to something you rely on for emergencies. Splitters require power, and have more parts and pieces, which is something I try to avoid on critical systems. However, I didn’t have an option at the time, and it served me well. Part of another project I just completed was to install a dedicated AIS antenna on a radar mast, which I will have an article on soon, so the splitter was removed as part of this VHF tuning/troubleshooting. The other area I checked was the VHF cable itself. I had replaced a falling-apart connector at the radio with one of the crimp on [Shakespeare PL-259-CP-G connectors](http://amzn.to/2r04V7n?ref=seabits.com). I had used these on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) and other boats, and they seemed to work OK, plus they were quick and easy to install. However, I knew that a real soldered connection was probably a better choice. One of the other trouble spots on sailboats is where the cable goes from inside the cabin area to the deck, and then into the mast. On some boats there is a connector there that can be very poorly designed or simply degraded because of the location and connectors. I traced the cable from the nav station to the deck fitting, and can’t find any connectors or breaks in the cable. On one hand, this is good, because there is a contiguous cable from the radio to the antenna. On the other hand, if the mast ever has to come down, I suspect I will be disappointed at having to cut this cable and splice it back together later. Ok, so thus far I have a good (new) radio, a decent (some would disagree) end at the radio, and what looks like a contiguous cable to the mast. Time to check out the antenna as best as I can…. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/05/Grace-VHF-antenna-masthead.jpg) Grace’s masthead instruments Since I am afraid of heights, there was only one way for me to check on the antenna easily – break out the [Sony RX10 mkIII 600mm](http://amzn.to/2r0bK8U?ref=seabits.com) zoom camera and walk down the dock! I am still impressed daily with this camera’s ability to take steady, handheld pictures at crazy ranges. At first glance, the antenna looks to be in OK condition, and the connectors don’t look messed up. It also looks like the same cable that I can see at the base of the mast and inside at the nav station. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/05/Grace-VHF-antenna-zoom.jpg) Zoomed in on the antenna and connectors Zooming in on the image itself, and I can see what appears to be a good end and no other damage. The [Shakespeare 5125 squatty body](http://amzn.to/2rDF9IH?ref=seabits.com) antenna is identical to the one I had installed on Jammy a few years ago, and is what I would choose now as well if I had to replace one. Nothing else looks out of the ordinary, but of course an in-person inspection of the ends and such would be a better idea. After chatting with some friends about the various issues I was having, they all agreed that my crappy, crimp-on connector was not doing me any favors. So I set out to replace it. A few internet searches later, and I landed on one of my favorite sites – [Compass Marine’s MarineHowTo.com](https://marinehowto.com/?ref=seabits.com) written by Rod “RC” Collins. I’ve used this site to learn about so many things – from batteries to charging to instrumentation to you-name-it. The page that was my savior is [Easy VHF Terminations](https://marinehowto.com/easy-vhf-terminations/?ref=seabits.com) and it had everything I needed to know about fixing my crimp-on ends. In fact, RC has examples of why **not** to use the crimp-on ends in rather dramatic pictures. The best part of MarineHowTo.com is that RC tries to write about things in a way an average boater could understand and work on. In this particular article, he takes great pains to use tools that most boaters would have at hand, not fancy, expensive, and rather dangerous AC soldering irons with short cords, etc. After reading his article several times, I ended up purchasing a few things: - [MPD Digital RG8X-PL259 UHF Male Crimp Connectors](http://amzn.to/2qToIqJ?ref=seabits.com) - [Rosin Core Solder](http://amzn.to/2qk7dwT?ref=seabits.com) - [Dremel 2200-01 Versa Flame Multi-Function Butane Torch](http://amzn.to/2qZTU5V?ref=seabits.com) The first two items are fairly obvious – ends for the cable, and solder. The third is a fairly inexpensive tool that I chose to purchase that replaced another tool I always have on the boat – a torch. I have fallen in love with the Dremel Versa Flame – prior to this I would always have a small torch that had an attachment to allow me to heat shrink wrap for electrical wiring, which I do a lot of. The Dremel has this, as well as a soldering tip, and a few other attachments that make it a true multi-tool. I already had a [crimping tool](https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--multi-die-ratcheting-crimper-kit--8956906?recordNum=6&ref=seabits.com) which had inserts for the PL-259 ends, so I was ready to follow RC’s article. It was super easy, and I ended up with an end that I think is far better connectivity-wise than the crimped one, although I am sure it is not perfect! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/05/VHF-PL259-completed-end-zoomed.jpg) VHF PL-259 completed end In the picture above you can see the end and protective shrink wrap, along with solder left over on the tip that I removed post picture taking. The whole affair took me about 10 minutes the first time, and with RC’s article was very easy to understand. Cutting the cable carefully with my multi-tool, flaring the shield back, covering and crimping the back end – all straightforwards. The Dremel soldering attachment helped me get plenty of solder down the tip to ensure a good connection. Switch to the diffuser on the Dremel, and the heat shrink is done and in place in a handful of seconds. It was so easy I decided to re-do the crimped-on connector for my Vesper XB-8000 AIS unit and new antenna. After making these changes, I have noticed an improvement in VHF radio traffic on the B&G just from listening to the local Seattle Vessel Traffic Services (VTS) on channel 14 while on the boat doing projects. Prior to the change, I wouldn’t be able to hear all of the ships and ferries clearly, and even the Coast Guard VTS folks would come in spotty sometimes. After a week of observations, I can already say that it has made a difference which should improve overall quality in using the VHF radio. The AIS change was even more dramatic – prior to a week or so ago, I used the mast-mounted VHF antenna with the splitter I covered above and my Vesper AIS unit to send AIS data to various services online which I have covered on my [Services](https://seabits.com/services/) page. I even setup a [proxy / data reduction system that I wrote about last year](https://seabits.com/sending-ais-data-slow-cellular-link/) to help save on bandwidth usage. After disconnecting the splitter, I installed a dedicated AIS antenna on a 9′ high stern-mounted pole, and expected my coverage and range to decrease because of how low it was now, and all the interference in the marina at that level. It did go down quite dramatically until I re-did the VHF connector. Now, it is back up to the same levels as you can [see on my station at MarineTraffic.com](https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/stations/1700?ref=seabits.com). I know that the connector was not the only reason, but it sure made a big difference. I always considered properly soldered ends to be something only ham radio guys could do, and even then it took years of practice and fancy tools that I would only use very infrequently on the boat. Thanks to RC’s great article, I know I can do a much better connector than the crimp-on ones, and get a far better connection with a reasonable investment of time and tools I already had on board. It was also the only way I could safely put an end on a remote cable for the AIS system – trying to handle an AC-based soldering iron in close quarters in the lazarette would have been a nightmare. I highly recommend every boater checks their VHF radio cabling once a year, and especially if you have an older boat, invest in both newer/thicker/less loss cable and proper ends. It’s made a difference for me, and I learned something new! --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 1 comment Hartley Gardner@Hartley January 24, 2022 Don’t you just hate it when folks comment on a 5 year-old post? It’s still a good article, though - those abominable “solderless” PL-259 connectors make my hair stand up just thinking about them. I spent a lot of years in the 2-way radio business, and putting on connectors properly was a necessary skill - no matter what kind of cable or connector. Nothing makes a mega-buck radio perform worse than a lousy cable and/or antenna (and its usually the cable/connectors). One comment - though the subject is long gone, the connector pictured at the base of your masthead halfwave vertical is also suspect - it isn’t weather sealed at all, the exterior has turned black, and the PL-259 isn’t weather sealed anyway. If I found such a connector on my boat, it would be cut away and replaced immediately. I would also check the cable for water intrusion, and replace it if there was any sign (generally any visible corrosion on the shield braid or center conductor). I just replaced an 80’ run of RG-8X from my masthead to the nav station antenna demarcation panel. The tape seal at the masthead had failed, allowing water into the shield braid - to my amazement, water had penetrated the entire length of the cable (including a 6’ rise from the mast base to the panel)! Needless to say, I spent a LOT more time sealing the replacement (1/4" Superflex hardline). A device that makes it easy to diagnose such issues is called a Vector Network Analyzer - and while “pro” versions cost mega-bux, there are very inexpensive (and small!) versions out now that work very well for sniffing out problems with simple networks like a cable/antenna setup. These “NanoVNA” devices like [This One](https://www.amazon.com/%E3%80%90Upgraded%E3%80%91AURSINC-Analyzer-Measuring-Parameters-Standing/dp/B07Z5VY7B6/?ref=seabits.com) on Amazon can tell you if the problem is at the bottom, middle or top of your coax run, or if the antenna just isn’t getting it done. A more user-friendly version is an MFJ-225, but the cost is about 8X! Hartley S/V Atsa ### USB power solutions are simple to add to your boat URL: https://seabits.com/usb-power-solutions-simple/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T21:55:47.000Z USB devices are as prevalent on the boat as at home – guests bring devices that require it, I have a ton that need it, and not just your cell phone or tablet. There’s an [Amazon Echo](https://seabits.com/amazon-echo-dot-perfect-sailboat/) which handles all of our music, a Garmin inReach to keep us safe, and a Raspberry Pi that runs navigation software and [SignalK](https://seabits.com/tag/signalk/) just to name a few. Finding power for all of these devices is easy if you’re plugged in at the dock, if not a bit inefficient with wall warts and adapters. I decided to make this more elegant, and it was a simple project to do with three different and inexpensive products. ![Blue Sea USB outlet at Nav station](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/05/USB-Navigation-station-wide-view.jpg) Blue Sea USB outlet at Nav station The first part of the project was providing more streamlined USB access for people charging their phone and other communications devices. This took the form of the [BlueSea USB dual charger socket](http://amzn.to/2q6CuE6?ref=seabits.com). I’ve had these in place for a year – one at the Navigation station, and one at the helm. Now the two most frequented areas had always available USB power, available directly from the DC battery bank, no inverter or dock power required. ![Close up of BlueSea USB outlet](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/05/BlueSea-USB-close-up.jpg) They are super easy to install, and have a total charging capacity of 2.1 amps. There are no converters or other pieces required – simply a connection to your 12v or 24v battery bank, and you have 5v DC USB power. I have noticed when you plug in two high amperage devices, that one will be slowed down charging-wise given that the total output is only 2.1 amps. I recommend not charging two fast charge or high capacity items like iPads and such at the same time on the device. ![BlueSea USB at the helm](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/05/BlueSea-USB-at-helm.jpg) BlueSea USB at the helm I like having it at the helm so I can charge my [Garmin inReach](http://amzn.to/2q6FyQK?ref=seabits.com) while it is broadcasting our location – having a fully topped off battery for it is great in the event of a catastrophe. Sometimes folks who are enjoying the sail in the cockpit use this port to charge their phones. I appreciate the convenience, but I have had my share of getting caught up in their cables while trying to adjust sheets, and I am always worried about an open transom sailboat cockpit and phones sliding into the abyss. ![Topgreener AC outlets + USB](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/05/Topgreener-USB-AC-outlet.jpg) Topgreener AC outlets + USB The second part was solving USB power for overnight stays. This took the form of an AC/DC outlet combo in each stateroom that had high speed chargers built in, and allowed people to plug their USB cable, without wall wart, and regardless of dock power, into the outlet and charge while staying overnight. This does require that the inverter is on and functioning. After a bunch of research, I chose the [Topgreener TU2154A Smart Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet 15 Amp Receptacle](http://amzn.to/2qsGnXd?ref=seabits.com). Both USB ports support fast charge at 2 amps and seem to live up to that claim. I’ve charged an iPad and iPhone 7 Plus simultaneously and they charge just as fast as using the Apple power bricks. Android phones seem to charge quickly too, although there are some that require proprietary charging cables/bricks that may not charge as fast. ![Charging in the stateroom](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/05/Topgreener-USB-AC-outlet-with-cable-in-master-stateroom.jpg) Charging in the stateroom I like these outlets because other things are plugged in to the AC side while out and about, like an ice machine and TV. This means those devices can stay plugged in and people can still charge their devices. Having USB available via inverter is also nice at the end of the day when folks are going to bed – no looking for your wall wart to charge your phone overnight. The final part is for what I call the Computer Alcove, which contains the Amazon Echo, Raspberry Pi, [iKommunicate](https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/), [SmartThings hub](https://seabits.com/smartthings-keeps-boat-warm-winter/), MasterBus USB interface, [Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder](https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/), and [USB-powered Ethernet switch](http://amzn.to/2pkXU3s?ref=seabits.com). I had been running these via various means – some using a [DROK 12v-5v buck converter ](http://amzn.to/2plbrrH?ref=seabits.com)and a lot of cabling and crimping. This wasn’t the cleanest solution, as a single power supply would be better, but I didn’t really find any that I liked. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/05/Anker-10-port-usb-hub.jpg) Anker 10 port USB hub I use an [Anker 10 port USB powered hub](http://amzn.to/2qsueRR?ref=seabits.com) at home and work that has been rock solid. I noticed that it has a 12V power supply, and after a bit of research, decided to wire one in directly off the battery bank to see how it does. After figuring out the polarity on the included cabling, modifying it to connect to a spare fused spot on my 12v system, I had the hub up and running powering the Echo, Pi, and Ethernet switch without any problems. And I have more ports for expansion if I decide to add something else (which I am sure I will). So far in my testing I haven’t seen any problems – I tried while the battery bank was under charge (14v), normal (12v), and starting the engine and other things. We’ll see the long term viability of something like this, but even if it dies in a year or so, I can swap it for whatever the new technology is for pretty cheap. These three solutions seem to provide more than enough power and flexibility for all of the USB devices that I have on board, and are very inexpensive and easy to add. My devices are all charged, visitors have an easier way to do the same, and it takes less space and cabling. ### Raymarine LightHouse II v19.03 URL: https://seabits.com/raymarine-lighthouse-ii-v19-03/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:03:58.000Z I chose Raymarine for Grace when we bought her in 2015 ([see my network design here](https://seabits.com/projects/grace-integrated-5-part-network/)) because of how impressed I was with their MFD usability and software update frequency. I started getting worried in late 2016 when that frequency dried up, but a few days ago they released an update that hopefully signals future releases until [LightHouse 3](http://www.raymarine.com/multifunction-displays/lighthouse3/?ref=seabits.com) is ready for older MFDs. v19.03 is [available on the Software for Raymarine site ](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=3764&ref=seabits.com)and appears to be focused on a few feature improvements, and indicated that upgrades were available for a lot of the hardware I have on Grace. Strangely, only two items needed to be upgraded according to my eS75 MFD – the MFD itself and the Evolution Autopilot ACU-100 unit. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Raymarine-update-hardware-list.png) The release notes indicate that there are software upgrades for my p70 and ST1-STNG converter, but neither one showed up as needing new software. I’m hoping this isn’t a mistake or error on their part – last year I had part of my auto pilot out of sync because their update process didn’t think it needed new software. Perhaps they just got updated in a previous release? The features listed include support for thermal cameras, gS-series MFD touch, and Navionics dock-to-dock autorouting. That last “feature” looks more like a bug fix to me. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0853.jpg) Upgrading my eS75 MFD The MFD upgrade process completed without issue – the overall download was about 280MB. As soon as that was done, I updated the ACU unit. While that was happening, I went looking for what has changed in the R4 Evolution update. I applied part of the R4 update last summer, but the overall features that this has enabled are on [Raymarine’s site](http://www.raymarine.com/content/?id=17621&ref=seabits.com). The only thing I could find was that I upgraded to v2.23 which lists a feature of “initial release for the ACU150” which is documented on the [ACU software update page.](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=9572&ref=seabits.com) As far as I can tell, this appears be a [new smaller ACU unit](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=15032387710&ref=seabits.com) for power boats. My ACU-100 came as part of the [EV-100 Sail package](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=6866&ref=seabits.com). After doing the update [while at Blake Island](https://seabits.com/blake-island-friends-animals-hiking/), I recalibrated the auto pilot, and used the whole system on the way home. I didn’t see any issues, and everything functioned just like normal. I’m glad that Raymarine released an update, but from the release notes I see no new features, very few bug fixes, and not much else. I’m still worried that they have spent all of their time on the new MFD they announced recently, and [LightHouse III](http://www.raymarine.com/multifunction-displays/lighthouse3/?ref=seabits.com). From what I have read, LH III won’t have all of the LH II features on “older” MFDs like mine (less than 2 years old) for a while, and we could likely be in a feature desert for a while. Disappointing, as the rest of the industry seems to continue to provide new features across the last 2-3 major revisions simultaneously. In Ray’s defense, though, they have supported LH II since 2011 (!!) which is a 6 year run, and across a ton of different and very old MFDs. Here’s hoping for new features soon… ### Blake Island - friends, animals, and hiking URL: https://seabits.com/blake-island-friends-animals-hiking/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:04:59.000Z [Blake Island](http://parks.state.wa.us/476/Blake-Island?ref=seabits.com) is one of my favorite places to visit via boat. An easy 1-2 hour sail from my home marina, I have visited many times after work during the summer months. It is home to a wonderful assortment of deer, birds and other animals, and has plenty of camping and day spaces available, as well as mooring balls around the island. There’s a small marina that you can sometimes get into, which was our plan. With a decent weather forecast for Friday, I decided to get out of Seattle and over to Blake for at least one overnight stay. My friend Jake would be along for the ride – it would be his first time seeing Blake. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0760.jpg) No matter how much planning I do, it seems that I always end up with far more provisions than we need. The above is only part of what I bought for 2 people and 2 nights! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03305-Edit.jpg) Beneteau 311 center wine storage One of my favorite features on Grace is the center-table wine storage section. We generally use it for vodka, which works just as well. In this arena, you can never over provision! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03313-Edit.jpg) The weather was spectacular on Friday – almost 60 degrees with a nice 10kt wind from the North. We enjoyed a nice view of Seattle as we headed out of Elliott Bay. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03321-Edit.jpg) WSF Kaleetan near Seattle Colman Dock I am still in love with my [Sony DSC-RX10 III](http://amzn.to/2pie4cp?ref=seabits.com) bridge camera. The above shot was taken at 220mm while standing on a bouncy boat in the waves. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03325-Edit.jpg) WSF Walla Walla near Orchard Point & Olympics in background Here’s another of the Walla Walla coming out from Bremerton near Orchard Point. The stability and range of this camera, from a wide 24mm to a 600mm zoom plus it’s water resistance, allows me to take it anywhere. Gone are the days of lugging around a big camera bag of 3+ lenses and having to switch them in the field to get the right shot. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0768.jpg) We were being a bit lazy, and only had the jib up for the trip down to Blake Island. Most of the time we were reaching, and moving along at a nice, sedate 4 knots. I did notice my speed indicator through the water was not working, and remained that way for the rest of the trip. Time to pull it out and see what’s going on soon. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0774.jpg) Grace at the dock at Blake Island We pulled into the Blake Island marina, part of the state park itself, and were lucky enough to get a spot. It was far busier than I expected on a Friday, but apparently there was a mini-get together of Pacific Seacraft owners taking up a bit of the space. The marina is pretty tiny, and usually fills up quickly in the summer months. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Blake-Island-full-color-Map-final-11-16-16_201612011231077996.jpg) Blake Island map courtesy Washington State Parks Blake Island has a lot of activities that you can enjoy. Around the island there are a lot of mooring balls you can pick up, and dinghy into shore for more activities. On the island are a ton of trails to explore, camp sites, and the [Tillicum Excursion](http://www.argosycruises.com/argosy-cruises/tillicum-excursion/?ref=seabits.com), a Native American longhouse experience run by Argosy Cruises. It just so happened that they had their first big salmon dinner of the season while we were visiting, although we didn’t participate. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0776.jpg) Selfie on the beach The weather was so nice, we immediately set out on a mini-hike around the east point nearest the marina. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03337-Edit.jpg) The first animals we encountered were the geese. They were very passive, far more than normal geese I’ve run into elsewhere, but we did hear they were protecting eggs and waiting for them to hatch, so we gave them a wide berth. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03408.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03405.jpg) Besides the camp sites, there are also a ton of picnic tables and BBQ huts you can use with larger groups. I’m always amazed at how much water is on this island – streams running through the flat areas, big ponds up in the trees – water everywhere. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03343-Edit.jpg) The views were absolutely stunning from all vantage points – the nice 60 degree day, lack of rain and grey skies, and light wind made for some great photos. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03352-Edit.jpg) Coast Guard cutter headed South Still amazed with the Sony at this point – a hand held photo of a Coast Guard cutter at almost 600mm. A bit of noise but still a pretty rock solid shot for being hand held. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03367-Edit.jpg) East Beach The beaches of Blake are quite varying – we were on the east side where the typical fist-sized rocks, with sand as you move further up the beach. The far west side has a nice sandy beach that is great to visit from a mooring. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03365-Edit-Edit.jpg) I stayed on this mooring ball (or it’s replacement) back in 2009 on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) during a December snowstorm with north winds reaching 35 knots overnight. I would not recommend this rather exposed location for that sort of storm, but I had little options at the time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03372-Edit-Edit-Edit.jpg) Mt. Rainier and Vashon Ferry Terminal The views just continued to impress, and I couldn’t put the camera down. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03383-Edit.jpg) One of my favorite things about Blake, and that I wanted Jake to experience, is the deer. They are used to humans, and usually allow you to be pretty close to them while they are laying about or eating. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03392-Edit.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03394-Edit-Edit.jpg) Jake posing with his deer friends Jake was blown away at how tame they were, how close you could get, and how many there were just milling about. We counted 9 near us going about their business. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03402-Edit.jpg) After a leisurely stroll around the rest of the nearby camping spaces, we headed back to the boat for a nice steak dinner and cockpit time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03420.jpg) The high tide even coordinated along with a nice (blurry) Seattle skyline right before heading off to bed for the night. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0791.jpg) The next morning we awoke to the expected rain, and spent a lot of time surfing the ‘net and watching the raindrops. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0792.jpg) Around this time I got a message from Sam Landsman of [Slowboat.com](http://slowboat.com/?ref=seabits.com) that he was heading over to Blake. I had heard from him the day before that he might be coming over. As luck would have it, there was a nice spot right next to us, and he arrived about an hour later. He and his guests struck out in the rain you see above to explore, while Jake and I waited it out a bit longer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0793-Edit.jpg) We were rewarded with spots of sun and no rain, but a soggy set of trails. One of my favorite things about Blake is the trails around the island. It almost feels surreal, sort of like a fairy land. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0795-Edit.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0799-Edit.jpg) The trails are very well maintained, and all of the routes are easy for hikers of just about any skill level. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0805-Edit.jpg) There were some challenges getting across large puddles and even a bit of a stream at one point, but I suspect that is only present after lots of rain. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0814-Edit.jpg) We did find a lot of fungus on the various trees and stumps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0818.jpg) You can find evidence of logging from many years ago on old growth stumps. There are also a ton of [nurse logs](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nurse%5Flog?ref=seabits.com) – where trees have grown on top of fallen logs or stumps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0820-Edit.jpg) The weather cooperated for almost 2 hours, and we had a wonderful 3 mile hike around various trails. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0823-Edit.jpg) Blake Island marina entrance from shore ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03429.jpg) Grace at the dock ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0833.jpg) Safe Harbour at Blake Island during sunset Saturday evening brought a fantastic sunset from the dock, and another great meal before we headed off to bed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03425-Edit-2-Edit.jpg) I was surprised that the showers at Blake Island now use tokens – maybe they always have and I have forgotten? It has been a long time since I used them anyhow. The bathrooms and showers are in good condition, and I had no complaints. What I really loved was the tokens themselves. I kept a couple, as I enjoy coins in general, and these were well designed. I also got one for Penrose Point State Park, so I suspect they are in use there as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03437-Edit-2.jpg) I had some trouble getting my camera to do a decent macro shot – I am definitely going to spend some time working with the settings to see if I can improve things. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0846.jpg) Grace and Safe Harbour on a rainy Sunday morning Sunday morning found rain back in the forecast, and it didn’t let up all day. Safe Harbour was still across the dock, but I think we were all up a bit late (2am?) and as a result, no one really made an appearance on either boat until around 11am. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/DSC03460-Edit-Edit.jpg) The eagles at Blake are fun to watch. We got a front row show of one being harassed / harassing crows in the top of a tree. Yet again, I was impressed at hand held shots from the Sony. Still some learning to do with fast action shots, but it was fun to watch these guys argue with each other for about 30 minutes. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0861.jpg) Around 1pm we decided to make a break for home, after circling Blake so Jake could see it from the water. About 20 minutes into that circle, we aborted the run and turned towards Seattle. The rain was coming in sideways into the cockpit, and we had 20 knot winds. After two days of near-perfect weather, we were spoiled, and turned tail. Again we only needed the jib – with the winds coming from the south, we had plenty of wind to push us home at a good 4-5 knots. Everything was dripping wet, though. It poured harder than I had seen in a long time on the way home. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/IMG_0858-Edit-Edit.jpg) Blake Island astern Blake has a special place in my heart as “my local” island. I’ve been there more than anywhere else in Puget Sound because of how close it is to my home marina, and will continue going back as often as possible. It was magical the first time, and remains the same today! ### Surface Pro 4 is a great boat computer URL: https://seabits.com/surface-pro-4-great-boat-computer/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:06:15.000Z I’m always on the look out for a compact, well performing, easy to use computer for the sailboat. Over the years, I’ve used some rugged tablets, laptops, and other creations, but none have been able to run the software I need while still being easy enough to use. I have been a hardcore Mac user for the last 6 years, and while my MacBook Pros have been great, the best software for navigation doesn’t run natively on the Mac without major compromises. # Windows vs. Mac The primary use of a computer aboard [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) while planning or underway is to run [Coastal Explorer](http://www.rosepoint.com/coastal-explorer/?ref=seabits.com). Secondarily, when doing projects or maintenance, to run software from manufacturers like [Maretron](https://seabits.com/tag/maretron/) or [MasterVolt](https://seabits.com/tag/mastervolt/) to update or configure various devices. All of those software packages require Windows. For blogging, editing photos or videos, or general web browsing, I still rely on my Mac, although those waters are becoming a bit more muddied with the recent purchase of a MacBook Pro with Touch Bar – I can’t say I’m impressed with the hardware compared to what I see in the PC world. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/01-navionics-trip-planning-to-port-orchard-1-2.png) Navionics on the iPad iPads are great, and I have a 9″ one that I use a lot with Navionics, which is one of my go-to apps to plan trips quickly. But they lack the ability to delve deeper into a particular route, move route waypoints around easily, and do more with the software in general. They have definitely improved over time, but they’re still tightly controlled by Apple as to what they can and can’t do, and have no ability to interface with USB devices on the boat for firmware updates, etc. My day job exposes me to many virtualization technologies, and I’ve tried a bunch on the Mac – Parallels, VMWare Fusion, and Virtualbox – but they’re not the same as the real thing, and they burn through battery like a boatyard through your hard-earned savings. That’s not to mention that you need a ton of disk space for a fully installed copy of Windows, and the usability quirks with switching between things on one machine. I’ve also had issues emulating virtual serial and USB devices that work appropriately with specialized hardware like the Maretron USB 100. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Mac-running-Parallels-and-Windows-10.png) MacBook Pro running Parallels virtualization software and Windows 10 virtual machine You can also use Boot Camp, where you section off a part of your Mac hard drive to boot into a full version of Windows, but that’s just like owning two computers and having to keep them both updated and patched. I would prefer to do that on dedicated hardware via a standalone computer, and the Mac is not terribly efficient at being a full fledged Windows machine – battery life and other things are notoriously bad. # Surfaces & Windows 10 A few months ago, I bought my significant other a new laptop – a Surface Book, the bigger, more powerful brother to the Surface Pro – after doing my own research on various Windows laptops. I was very impressed with Microsoft’s hardware and design, and the utility of disconnecting the screen and using it as a tablet. I had been upgraded at work to a Windows 10 laptop recently and had found the operating system to not be as terrible of a solution as Vista or Windows 8 – it was, in fact, usable. I also got a bit jealous as my new MacBook Pro with Touch Bar was not that much faster than the 2+ year old one it replaced, and seemed to have less utility for me – no SD card reader, USB-c ports, no touch screen… > One of the best features in Windows 10 that I think is undersold for boaters is how you can [limit data usage for low bandwidth or capped connections](https://www.groovypost.com/howto/manage-windows-10-data-usage/?ref=seabits.com). Windows 10 loves to update itself without consulting you, which is nice that it does it in the background and doesn’t bother you, but on a boat with a capped data plan, or one with limited download bandwidth, this can mean you are stuck waiting for updates when you need to be doing something else, or blow through your data allowance. Being able to control this is a great option to have. After playing around a bit with the Surface Book, I fell in love with the clarity and aspect ratio of the screen and the general utility of it all. A month or so later, Microsoft offered the [Surface Pro 4](http://amzn.to/2pc8bOC?ref=seabits.com) with Intel i5 processor, 8GB RAM, and 256GB SSD storage for $999 on sale. I snapped it up along with the [Arc Touch Bluetooth mouse](https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en%5FUS/pdp/productID.333954000?ref=seabits.com), and [Signature Type Cover](https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en%5FUS/pdp/productID.340851700?ref=seabits.com) (keyboard). It was delivered a few days later, and I fell in love with it as my go-to boat computer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-with-keyboard.jpg) Surface Pro 4 with type cover attached # Surface Pro 4 Overview The Surface Pro 4 is essentially a well-endowed tablet with a keyboard cover – more than enough power and flexibility for the boat, plenty of connectors with a bright touch screen. The computer boots very quickly, uses facial recognition to log you in – handy if you don’t have the keyboard or your hands are full. On top of that, you can use it like a tablet and touch the screen to navigate. There’s also a wonderful pen if you are interested in more art-focused applications. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-without-keyboard-and-full-map.jpg) Not only is the hardware well made, but the utility of being able to disconnect the screen from the keyboard makes it extremely usable while underway in particular. You can simply touch the screen, drag the maps around, and interact with Coastal Explorer very easily. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-sideways.jpg) Coastal looks good even when you turn the tablet sideways! I actually really like using it this way when in north-up orientation when planning, as I am usually going a long distance north or south, and can see more of the route without having to zoom in and out. It is also a lot easier to hold, almost like a book. # Touch Screen & Pen The accuracy and efficiency of the touch screen should not be overlooked – I now use Coastal almost exclusively this way. Dragging the maps around, zooming in and out, and even planning routes seems so much faster and more natural using touch. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-pen-selecting.jpg) The pen has proven to be somewhat useful so far, although I don’t reach for it all the time. You can use it like a more precise mouse than your fingers if you don’t have the keyboard attached, or a mouse connected. Above I am selecting an area with it, but you can also click on areas and use the button on the pen to bring up more information. # Ports & Power ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-power-and-pen.jpg) Power, volume, headphones, and pen One corner of it has the volume rocker, power button, headphone port, and space to magnetically attach the pen. I’ve lost the pen a bunch already when shoving it in a bag or elsewhere, so be aware of that. If you close the keyboard cover on the screen, it goes to sleep, which is a nice feature – just like a laptop. I have no complaints about the buttons or power access. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-ports.jpg) Ports and power The other side has a single USB port, display port, and power port. This would probably be my only big negative – a single USB port can sometimes be limiting. I purchased the [Microsoft Arc Mouse](http://amzn.to/2nZXKgY?ref=seabits.com) which doesn’t require a USB port for a dongle or connector, leaving it free to connect to Maretron or MasterVolt USB interfaces, or other things that need programming. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-power-supply.jpg) The power connector is a tab-style thing that magnetically sucks itself into the slot from the previous picture. I’ve never had any issues with it not connecting or coming out too easily. The power supply also has a USB port on it that you can use to charge other devices. # Battery Life Battery life is really, really good – consider that I’m running a full-fledged copy of Windows 10 with all of the stuff that comes with, and that it is such a small, slim profile and I am impressed at how long I can use it without having to search for the power supply. I routinely see around 5 hours of use before I need to search for the charger, longer if I’m just using it for planning. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-keyboard-cover-close-angle.jpg) Signature type cover # Keyboard & Mouse I opted for the [Signature Type Cover](https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en%5FUS/pdp/productID.340851700?ref=seabits.com) which has a wonderful furry touch to it, and looks really nice. The Surface doesn’t come with a keyboard by default, and you need to choose one if you intend on using it like a laptop. Microsoft does a good job of showing you a ton of different options and colors – and they call it a “type cover” not a full-fledged keyboard, which should be a hint… ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-keyboard-cover.jpg) I had the first edition of the Surface a few years ago, and the keyboard was absolutely terrible. Not only did the keys not really have any throw, but the keyboard itself would routinely come unconnected from the tablet, and bad things would happen – drops and gyrations to catch everything as they separated. The new type cover for the Surface Pro 4 is actually a usable keyboard. It is definitely not a full quality laptop keyboard, but it is pretty darn close. The keys have decent throw, the touch pad is pretty good for mousing around, and it weighs next to nothing. I’ve typed for quite a while on it without noticing any pain or other problems, and have never had the disconnection issues from the older Surface line. The mouse is not always great, which is why I added the Arc Bluetooth mouse for more precise actions on charts and such. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-cover-protecting-screen.jpg) The type cover does a great job of protecting the screen, almost making the whole thing look like a fancy portfolio. # Kickstand vs. Laptop ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Surface-Pro-4-stand.jpg) Tablet computers have always had issues being full laptops, and the Surface is no exception. This years’ version has a better kickstand, and I have not had any issues with using it on my lap or other strange places. Older versions had issues with the kickstand closing, causing the tablet part to flip away from you, disconnect from the keyboard, and leave you with the cheapest part of the whole package in your hands while your tablet bounced around on the floor. So far I have not had any of those issues, but it is definitely a deeper profile than a laptop would be. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/surface-pro-4-with-coastal-explorer-4.png) By the way, if you haven’t already, you should [upgrade to Coastal Explorer 4](https://www.coastalexplorer.net/upgrade?ref=seabits.com) – highly worth the upgrade fee ($99) with all of the enhancements and improvements. It also looks amazing on the Surface, and works great with the touch screen. # Conclusions ## Pros - Performance – fast i5 processor, lots of storage space on the 256GB SSD, good amount of RAM - Wonderfully bright and clear screen - Touch screen ideal for Coastal Explorer - Usability and portability – small enough to be portable, big enough to be usable - Battery life is great ## Cons - Cost – cheaper laptops can be had, but not with these features – still can be spendy - Kickstand – makes it deeper on your lap, can collapse - Keyboard is not a full laptop keyboard - Only one USB port The Surface Pro 4 is definitely not a budget laptop – at $1200 for all of the bits and pieces, you could go get a nice mid-grade laptop with a bigger screen, etc. But you wouldn’t likely have touch screen, a disconnecting keyboard, pen, or as good specs as the 4\. Plus, I like the fact that I’m buying my hardware and software from the same company – they are more likely to fix things than 3rd party hardware, and it just seems to work well out of the box without a billion patches and updates. The compact form factor also is very convenient on the boat – big enough to see what needs to be seen screen-wise, but not too big like many budget laptops. I’m also happy not to be running this on my MacBook in a virtual environment, or using sub-par packages as a workaround. Having Coastal Explorer on what amounts to a large, more powerful iPad is perfect for planning and being underway, and I look forward to lots of future trips enabled by this technology. ### Weather on the boat via weeWX and Ambient URL: https://seabits.com/weather-boat-via-weewx-ambient/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:08:32.000Z I have been an avid weather geek since 1996 when I got my first crappy weather station with a mediocre outdoor sensor which ate batteries constantly, had a lame indoor LCD panel that showed a few metrics, but no long term history. Over the years, I’ve tried a bunch of different hardware and software combos. The most reliable have been Linux-based software packages with the Davis Vantage Pro series of stations. Recently, I had the chance to visit [Steve @ Datawake](https://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) and he had an Ambient Weather station he was setting up – I found some interesting new information about what used to be a $500+ hobby, and ways to leverage it on the boat. Steve has even more information about the actual installation in his [article on microship.com](https://microship.com/ship-weather-station/?ref=seabits.com). # Some History ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/nileweather-1.png) [NileWeather.com website](http://nileweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) I have a station I have run for \~7 years at our family cabin in Nile, WA at [NileWeather.com](http://nileweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) which I’ve documented on my [Weather](https://seabits.com/weather/) page. This station is a Davis Vantage Pro 2 unit and started life running [wview weather](http://www.wviewweather.com/?ref=seabits.com), a fantastic piece of software that has a history back to 2003\. I used this software for another Davis Vantage Pro station I ran at my house on Vashon Island, WA for many years. Unfortunately the last release was in 2014, and it stopped active development at that point. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/weather-station.jpg) wview required that you compile it from source in most cases, which was a barrier to many people. It was very complex, and difficult to customize. Davis released an Ethernet version of their console sometime in that mix, trying to entice people to post data from their weather stations to a Davis-proprietary website that was ugly and too simple. Other packages and software out there required a dedicated Mac or PC with crazy esoteric libraries or other funky compromises that I didn’t want to make. Another popular solution is [Weather Display](http://www.weather-display.com/?ref=seabits.com) which runs best on a PC, and has a hack-y version for Linux. I tried this for a while as well, but the crashes and weird Windows issues were just too much. Plus, the places I ran these stations didn’t have the power or room for a full fledged Windows machine, and administering that remotely was a nightmare. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/10/daytempdew.png) Outside temp and dewpoint from [nileweather.com](http://nileweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) Back in 2014, I stumbled across [weeWX](http://weewx.com/?ref=seabits.com), weather station software written in Python and very similar to wview, but with a lot more customization, and simpler to run. I converted [NileWeather.com](http://nileweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) over to that system, and haven’t had any major issues since. I was originally using the Davis Vantage Pro Ethernet add-on which started causing connection problems, so I switched back to the factory provided USB cable and have it directly connected to a Linux machine running weeWX. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2020/10/daywind.png) Wind speed and gust speed from [nileweather.com](http://nileweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) weeWX is very easy to setup, and has a great set of [documentation](http://weewx.com/docs.html?ref=seabits.com) and [support](http://weewx.com/support.html?ref=seabits.com) – the user forum is especially helpful. The default weeWX skin didn’t really excite me, but I found a better one called [Sofaskin](http://neoground.com/projects/weewx/?ref=seabits.com) which was a bit more modern. Good quality modern website skins is a huge gap in all of the weather software I’ve ever used, but Sofaskin gets as close as possible. You can see my data from Nile at the following sites: - [NileWeather.com](http://nileweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) - [Weather Underground](https://www.wunderground.com/personal-weather-station/dashboard?ID=KWANACHE5&ref=seabits.com) - [Personal Weather Stations](https://www.pwsweather.com/obs/NILEWA.html?ref=seabits.com) - [CWOP/FindU](http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/wxpage.cgi?call=EW4137!Nile&last=120&ref=seabits.com) – Citizen’s Weather Observation Program - [APRS.fi](https://aprs.fi/weather/a/EW4137?ref=seabits.com) - [Weathercloud](https://app.weathercloud.net/d0444631811?ref=seabits.com#current) # Station I love the [Davis Vantage Pro](http://amzn.to/2p6EnmQ?ref=seabits.com) series of stations, but they are nearly $500 for the base hardware. Adding an [Envoy](http://amzn.to/2ozFtnR?ref=seabits.com) ($140) so you can plug it into your computer away from the display panel, or the full solar and heat solution can get you nearer to $1000 for the whole solution. While the station is built to last (I had one for 6+ years in pretty bad conditions without a problem) it makes it hard for many people to afford. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/Vantage-Pro2-3.jpg) While it is a great station, it is a bit dated. As far as I can tell, they haven’t done any upgrades in at least 8 years, and the control panel above doesn’t get close to the plethora of sleek solutions out there from other vendors. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/desktop_img_weather_solutions_console.jpg) If you want to choose something less expensive from Davis, you could go with the Vantage Vue, but the display panel is positively ugly. Steve had done a bunch of research, and ordered the [Ambient Weather WS-1001-WIFI](http://amzn.to/2pEDhe6?ref=seabits.com) (note: this item is only available from 3rd party sellers as of the writing of this article – see below for an alternative) for around $230\. I ordered a similar package, the [Ambient Weather WS-1200](http://amzn.to/2ozFQi4?ref=seabits.com) for $249.99\. My package includes an additional box that receives weather from the station and has a mini TCP stack to fiddle with. The station hardware is really nice for the price – it has the outdoor piece with all of the requisite things you’d expect such as anemometer, rain gauge, temperature, and solar and UV sensors (an extra purchase with the Davis), indoor humidity and temperature sensor (nice that it is separate so you don’t have to have it with the panel) and an amazingly beautiful panel running Windows CE! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/steves-ambient-display.jpg) Datawake’s Ambient Display weather station main panel Steve has some [great photos in his article](https://microship.com/ship-weather-station/?ref=seabits.com) showing the install and hardware – mine is still in the box waiting for a permanent location. I also am looking at putting one of these at home given how inexpensive and elegant they are. The Ambient is a version of the Fine Offset stations that many folks like, and they have a built in ability to submit their data to Weather Underground. I recommended that Steve use weeWX instead, which would provide more archival data options, as well as allow him to send data to many other places. However, there were some challenges… # Software weeWX does not have a native driver for the Ambient Weather stations. After poking around a bunch, I found a few different approaches, but the most reliable seemed to center around intercepting the HTTP GET request from the station and capturing the data locally. Pat wrote up a great tutorial about [Redirecting Weather Station Data from ObserverIP](https://obrienlabs.net/redirecting-weather-station-data-from-observerip/?ref=seabits.com)which I used as the basis for our solution. Steve’s station did not include the ObserverIP component (the little black box with the antenna and ports) but that didn’t matter. Here are the basic steps I used: 1. Configure Ambient Weather panel to send data to Weather Underground. Their manual covers this in pretty good detail. I input the station name and password in their panel even though I knew we would be intercepting the traffic. 2. Add a DNS entry on Steve’s main router for `rtupdate.wunderground.com` to point to our local Linux system (192.168.xx.20) 3. Created a directory and alias on the 192.168.xx.20 webserver for /weatherstation 4. Placed Pat’s `updateweatherstation.php` page in `/weatherstation`, made some changes This essentially intercepted the HTTP GETs that the Ambient was sending and captured them on the Linux machine via the Apache webserver. Using Pat’s script, I was able to then send the resulting data on to the ncat server he covers in his tutorial, and configure weeWX to pick that data up. Here’s what I changed in Pat’s script: ``` if ( ($_GET["ID"] == "YOUR_WUNDERGROUND_USERNAME") && ($_GET["PASSWORD"] == "YOUR_WUNDERGROUND_PASSWORD") ) { //============================================// // Auto send data query right to wunderground // //============================================// $wunderground = file_get_contents("http://rtupdate.wunderground.com/weatherstation/updateweatherstation.php?" . $_SERVER['QUERY_STRING']); echo $wunderground; ``` I removed the above section that provided a level of authentication based on the station ID and password being provided from Ambient. This was causing endless loops and forked processes with my version of PHP and crashed the webserver. I’m not sure why, but will go back and investigate at some point in the future. Instead, I put IP based security on this particular directory so that only the Ambient station could hit this URL. I also changed this: `$socket .= "txBatteryStatus=".$_GET['lowbatt']; // Last item, no comma` To this: `$socket .= "txBatteryStatus=0"; // Last item, no comma` As the Ambient does not report any sort of battery status, and this was barfing. For the Apache webserver, you need to create a configuration file to allow the PHP script to run. In my case, we are using apache2 on an Ubuntu distribution, and adding this to `/etc/apache2/conf-available` as `weather.conf`, and then running `a2enconf weather` and restarting the apache server got us up and running. ``` ScriptAlias /weatherstation/ "/var/www/weatherstation/" AllowOverride None Options None Order allow,deny Allow from 192.168.xx.20 ``` Once this was done, and the rest of Pat’s guide followed, we had data flowing into the ncat server and weeWX itself. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/04/weewx-data-on-ncat-port.png) weeWX data stream on ncat port # Website Setting up a website for Steve’s data was easy, and the same as what I did for NileWeather.com, but is still underutilized by many people for sites that don’t have a ton of static content – Amazon S3 buckets. You can create an Amazon S3 bucket, or file storage repository, and turn the content in that repository into a website with a few simple steps: 1. Create S3 bucket 2. Assign appropriate permissions 3. Buy a domain name 4. Add domain name to Route 53 (Amazon’s DNS service) 5. Create records in Route 53 to point to the S3 bucket for the websites addresses You have a website for a fraction of the cost of running a real server, as long as your content doesn’t require fancy back end processing (like this site using WordPress, etc.). [Amazon has a great tutorial](http://docs.aws.amazon.com/AmazonS3/latest/dev/WebsiteHosting.html?ref=seabits.com) on how to do this. Now that you have the site setup, you have to get the content there, which is very easy. weeWX has a few different ways of replicating websites to remote servers, but nothing yet for Amazon S3\. I hope to suggest or submit code to help add this in the future. To get started with this piece, you will need the [AWS command line tools installed](http://docs.aws.amazon.com/cli/latest/userguide/installing.html?ref=seabits.com), and then a user who has access to write to the S3 bucket you created above. Once you create the user, you’ll get a user ID and secret key which you can setup on the Linux server by running “aws setup” and choosing the region and other details about your S3 bucket. Once this is done, you’re ready to replicate your content. You can test it out by running: `aws s3 sync /var/www/html/weewx/ s3://fridayharborweather.com/ --only-show-errors` This is using the AWS command line tools to replicate `/var/www/html/weewx/`, where the static website is generated by weeWX, to an S3 bucket called fridayharborweather.com and only report if there are errors. Once that worked, time to add it to cron: ``` # m h dom mon dow command 7,12,17,22,27,32,37,42,47,52,57 * * * * /usr/bin/aws s3 sync /var/www/html/weewx/ s3://fridayharborweather.com/ --only-show-errors ``` At this point we have created [FridayHarborWeather.com](http://fridayharborweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) and have weather data updating every 5 minutes a few minutes after weeWX’s scheduled 5 minute update. # Sharing In addition to creating your own website, weeWX allows you to submit it to a ton of other services. I setup a number of them for Steve’s data, all of which help others find the weather data with the site/app/tools of their choice. Here are links to Steve’s data: - [FridayHarborWeather.com](http://fridayharborweather.com/?ref=seabits.com) - [Weather Underground](https://www.wunderground.com/personal-weather-station/dashboard?ID=KWAWASHI23&ref=seabits.com) - [Personal Weather Stations](https://www.pwsweather.com/obs/MICROSHIP.html?ref=seabits.com) - [CWOP/FindU](http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/wxpage.cgi?call=N4RVE!Nile&last=120&ref=seabits.com) – Citizen’s Weather Observation Program - [APRS.fi](https://aprs.fi/weather/a/N4RVE?ref=seabits.com) - [Weathercloud](https://app.weathercloud.net/d0695208257?ref=seabits.com#current) # Conclusions Weather data is super fun to have, but also useful for many other reasons. We consider the station at our family cabin to be critical to knowing whether things are safe, especially during the winter and power outages. Having a weather station on a boat might seem like a bad idea – what happens when I leave the dock and the orientation of the wind sensor changes? The data is going to be wrong! Yes, you’re right about that, but you probably leave your boat in the same position moored at your home dock for a large portion of time. The Ambient station consumes hardly any power, and looks really sexy with the color panel while at the dock. Having that data available remotely allows you to check on wind conditions and general temperatures, including inside the cabin, when you’re away. Plus you’re submitting useful data when at the dock that others can rely on. When you’re away from the dock, turn it off to prevent bad data – and when you get to your destination, reorient your sensor and continue. The Ambient stations make having a weather station super affordable, which is not unique – but the quality of the hardware and the display panel alone are worth far more. I will be installing one on Grace and at home using the same process above within the next week. Having access to real-time weather data at both places will help me plan my activities and make sure things are safe and sound! ### Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder - a black box for your boat URL: https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-voyage-recorder-black-box-boat/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:09:46.000Z With the [huge network](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/) I have on Grace, capturing everything that is going on in a useful form is sometimes difficult. For individual trips, I usually grab the track points off of my Raymarine or take a screen shot to remember things by. While at anchor or at the dock, it’s harder to gather info to do analysis or just show what was going on. In the past I’ve used Kees Verruijt’s great [canboat](https://github.com/canboat?ref=seabits.com) system to dump raw NMEA 2000 via a linux machine to analyze later, but converting them to something useful has always been a challenge. After installing a [Yacht Devices Text Display](https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-text-display-review/) last year, I noticed they had a product that might help me with my constant quest for getting data off the boat – the [Yacht Devices Voyage Recorder](http://www.yachtd.com/products/recorder.html?ref=seabits.com). The product records all data off of your NMEA 2000 or SeaTalk network to an SD card. The resulting files can be copied to a computer and analyzed in various different ways – generate maps of your travels, look at performance of your boat, create a polar analysis, and more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-Box-and-device.jpg) # Overview The Voyage Recorder is a tiny device that comes in a NMEA 2000 and Raymarine SeaTalk version. I chose the NMEA 2000 version even though I have SeaTalk in my network so that I could use it in more places. It comes with a great manual along with the device itself – you have to provide your own SD card to record data onto. Based on their general guidelines, Yacht Devices says you can record 100-200 days on a 16GB card – yes you read that right – 100-200 days worth of data! That is a heck of a long time – you could leave it in for most of the summer and not have to worry about it, then analyze the season after you were done. I think given the chattiness of my network that will be a challenge to meet. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-with-SD-card_DxO.jpg) Voyage recorder with SD card prepared for use # Installation The SD card is an important choice – the amount of data and frequency that things are written to the card mean that a high quality, class 10 card, formatted correctly is critical. The manual goes over the specifics very well, even providing a link to tools to format things correctly. My network being as busy and complex as it is, I chose to install a 32GB card that had not been used before, formatted with FAT32, 64k block sizes. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-SD-card-inserted_DxO.jpg) SD card slot and LED That’s really all there is to installation. You can upgrade the firmware by placing a firmware file in the root of the SD card and connect the device to the network for a few seconds. The details are clearly outlined in the great manual (did I mention they had a great manual?). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-Connected_DxO.jpg) Voyage recorder….recording # Data Gathering Once you get it connected, there’s really nothing left to do but wait for it to record some data. I left mine connected for about 30 minutes with everything on and active on the network. I wasn’t moving through the water, so things aren’t that interesting, but it did generate about 3.9MB of data. If we round up to 4MB for every 30 minutes, that would mean I would generate 8MB an hour, or 192MB per day. So that would mean I could record for 166 days before I ran out of space. Oh, and did I mention that the device will auto rotate and keep the freshest data, deleting the oldest? While I don’t think these numbers will be true when more data is being generated by various devices, if I get even half of that (83 days) that’s pretty amazing. However, I will likely be taking it out after every voyage and using the data to generate maps, analysis, and other things, which brings up a good point… While I love the size and simplicity of the device, it does not lend itself well to being mounted somewhere where you can get the SD card in and out before and after a journey. I wish there was a mounting bracket or something similar so you could tack it up somewhere behind a bulkhead or in a pocket so you could access the SD card quickly when you know you want to analyze the data. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Screen-Shot-2017-02-23-at-10.38.37-PM.png) The device records the data in subdirectories named in incrementing numbers, and files named the same way. The way they have chosen to do this is ingenious and takes into account the limits of Windows FAT32 directory and file maximums. It’s clear that a smart engineer not only read the spec for limits like this, but actually did a decent amount of testing and trial and error. I’ve seen many other products for boats and the networking world get this egregiously wrong. # Analysis ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-Converter-Welcome.png) The key to the entire device is the software that gives you the ability to take the files from the SD card and generate various different formats. You download the software from the [Yacht Devices Downloads](http://www.yachtd.com/downloads/?ref=seabits.com#ydvrman) page, and unlike many other manufacturers, the software is available for Windows, Mac and Linux! I’ve tested the Mac and Windows versions, and I recommend the Mac version over the Windows version. Most Windows machines, including my Surface Book 4, use DPI or screen scaling, and their software seems to have major issues dealing with the scaling. Check boxes were completely un-clickable, text required making the generated window 3-4 times the size to read it, and there were buttons that were missing because of the scaling as well. The software is super easy to use, and once you have it going, all you do is select a portion or all of the data files generated on the SD card and choose how you want it to be output. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-Convert-to-GPX.png) What is awesome about the product is how many output formats you can choose. I personally will be using the GPX, CSV and Printable Log Book formats. Besides that it supports OpenSkipper XML, CanBoat/SignalK, CAN logs, and a list of devices on the network. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-Convert-GPX-Options.png) GPX options Once you have chosen a format, you get varying options depending on the type of data you’re generating. For GPX, you can choose the time ranges, frequency, and then the units you want things converted into, which is so nice. Many other tools I’ve used simply dump the raw data for everything, and then you’re required to do esoteric conversions for various weird things. The “time interval between points or records” is useful too – choosing a lower granularity, 1 minute or 1 hour as an example, will result in the software doing min/max/average calculations for you on various bits of data. More on that below. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-Convert-GPX-Data-.png) Yacht Devices takes it one step further and allows you to choose the data to convert, which is even more powerful. Instead of generating a file full of engine speed and hours when you don’t need it, you can de-select that data type, and it’s not put in the resultant output file. There’s a [PDF that Yacht Devices have created](http://www.yachtd.com/downloads/wind%5Frose.pdf?ref=seabits.com) showing how to take the resultant CSV data and generate a wind rose. There’s also an example of [how to create a polar diagram](http://www.yachtd.com/downloads/polar%5Fdiagram.pdf?ref=seabits.com) based on general data without any special trial runs. I will definitely be doing this later when I have Grace out and about! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-Excel-Spreadsheet-with-Graph.png) Importing the CSV into Excel, I was able to quickly create graphs of various things like Apparent Wind Speed and the like, and can see the power in being able to create comparison tables, pivot tables, and graphs of various things throughout a journey. The amount of data recorded is pretty impressive as well. In the CSV I see the following: - Time - Lat/Long - Depth (current/min/max) - TWS (current/med/avg/min/max) - TWA (current/med/avg/min/max) - AWS (current/med/avg/min/max) - AWA c - STW (current/min/max) - Heading (current/min/max) - COG (current/min/max) - SOG (current/min/max) - Water Temp (current/min/max) - Battery Voltage (current/min/max) - Log - Yaw (current/med/avg/min/max) - Pitch (current/med/avg/min/max) - Roll (current/med/avg/min/max) - Water Tank (current/min/max) That’s 64 columns of data! I also see specific columns created for my Water Tank and others, so I suspect if you had more devices, it would create columns for those as well. What I did notice is that when I selected a time interval of 1 seconds, I ended up with 1659 rows, which is around 27 minutes – exactly the time I had the recorder on. If I selected a resolution of 1 minute I ended up with 27 rows, one for each minute. I suspect the min/max/med/avg columns are meant to be summarizing the data per their functions based on the resolution of the export – if you only chose to export it on an hour granularity, these columns might matter a lot more. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/YDVR-Log-Book-Output-Example.png) Here’s an example of the logbook output. One could use this with an hour granularity for quite a nice logbook template. It generates an .odt file which you can then open in Word or your editor of choice. I’m not sure where the 837L of water is on Grace – that must be an error! # Competitors There are a number of other devices out there that record data about the performance and health of your boat, but almost all are combined with other systems or are very narrow in terms of the data they collect. The only other manufacturer that I know of that makes a similar device is Maretron – they have the [VDR100](http://www.maretron.com/products/vdr100.php?ref=seabits.com) which is very similar. There are several important differences: - The Maretron costs $795 vs Yacht Devices $189 - Maretron requires a USB100 or DSM150/250 display to configure it. That’s anywhere from $295-995 of additional equipment to configure it. - The Maretron has an Ethernet port so you can access data real-time locally and remotely – a nice touch. - Much less efficient data storage (24GB for 30 days) - Less export types Is it worth $811 more to have remote access? Not sure if I would use the remote access feature that much since I’m likely to be pulling data off after a voyage, not remotely to debug a probelm. I’ve used Maretron devices extensively on Grace and even more so on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), and I love how well they are designed, but they are pricey and flakey to configure. # Conclusion Great, simple hardware with quick install. Cross-compatible software for three operating systems that gives you a ton of different options to export the data – something I have not seen with many other tools. Gathers tons of data and allows you to meld it down to exactly what you want to start analyzing. Being a stats and data freak, this is the perfect thing to leave running in the background, and then spend hours poring over various details to see how things are performing. I might even consider a cloud database and shoving the data in there all the time for longer term analysis – a pet project of mine for a long time. The long term results are not in yet, but the Voyage Recorder will get a lot of use this season and will hopefully help me tell stories better on the site by providing track overviews using the GPX data. I can’t wait to start seeing more data and trends, and learning more about Grace in the water! ### Be prepared wherever you are URL: https://seabits.com/be-prepared-wherever-you-are/ Last updated: 2026-08-26T20:48:23.000Z Being prepared is something that I’m well known for with all of my friends and family – I’m called Mr. Redundancy. This last weekend, it helped to save our lives when we were stranded in the wilderness with minimal survival gear in deep snow and 15 degree temperatures. This is a story of how technology and being prepared helped us survive a very serious situation. It also reinforces how important preparedness is everywhere – at home, on vacations, in the wilderness, and on the water. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DSC01567_DxO.jpg) Family cabin with deep snow We had gone up the hill the day before with my brother on snowmobiles and had a great time. One had an engine problem and had to be towed back, and the snow was deep, but great fun. Monday, February 13th started out like any other day at the family cabin near Naches, Washington. Good friend Jake and I both had planned on going back up the hill on our own on the snowmobiles. # 11:00AM – Enjoying the Day ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/1701-to-top.png) We left the cabin around 11:00AM and headed up Bald Mountain Road, also known as Forest Road 1701, and reached the main intersection about 4 miles up the hill 20 minutes or so later. Based on the previous day’s experience, we decided to take a left and continue on Forest Road 1701. The day before we had explored some of the large flat areas that my brother had ridden in many times before, and I had gotten stuck once pretty bad because of the depth of the snow. I wanted to go further up FR 1701 and fly my new [Mavic Pro](https://seabits.com/drones-on-sailboats/) drone where there are spectacular views of Mount Rainier and the valley below. This last summer, Jake and I had driven up to this very area several times and flown the drones, done some target practice, and explored the forest fire aftermath that happened near Rock Creek. I knew it pretty well and felt comfortable with the area. # 12:00PM – Fateful Decisions ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/1701-to-side-road.png) After winding a couple more miles up FR 1701, I took a left on a road that Jake, Josh and I had walked out during the summer. It had a great wide open area at the end of the main part of the road that you could see Mount Rainier from, and a lot of space to turn around. The initial part of the road seemed OK, although clearly no one had been down it since the last big snow. That worried me a little, but I was confident that we could turn around and come back out without any problems. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Scotts-Polaris-800.jpg) Polaris 800 snowmobile About 1/4 mile down the road, things started getting deeper than I would like, and I decided to turn around. I was riding my brother’s Polaris 800 snowmobile, a very powerful “hill climbing” style machine. I had difficulties in the past making sharp turns, and had learned that leaning off the machine with your body weight and gunning the throttle usually got the job done. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/me-trying-to-dig-out-first-time.jpg) Me digging out the 800 the first time it got stuck Unfortunately when I tried to turn around this time, I did everything wrong and got it stuck on a rather steep hill with snow that was about 6′ deep. I did the same thing the day before, and Scott warned me against doing anything on an uphill. This particular spot was also very exposed, and probably had even more snow than the rest area because of that. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/jake-helping-dig-out.jpg) Jake helping me dig out The snow was so deep, and the machine stuck really deep as well, that I had to ask Jake to come over and help me. The snow was so deep that it took him 10+ minutes just to make it over to me about 50 feet away. This will become even more limiting later in the day. After several attempts to get unstuck pointing uphill, we decided to dig and flip the machine around pointing downhill. Keep in mind, the Polaris 800 RMK weighs in at 408 pounds, dry weight, without fuel and gear. **408 pounds**. This will become another limiting factor later in the day. It took both of us lifting the back end of the machine around in a circle, and I was able to drive down the hill, but unfortunately, I was pointed the wrong way. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/road-back-towards-jake.jpg) Road back towards Jake In the picture above you can see Jake on his machine, a much smaller Polaris 440, and my track off of the first place I got stuck. The snow does not look deep, but that is deceiving – it was at least 6′ deep here. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/road-down-towards-bowl.jpg) Road down towards hell At this point, Jake made a complete U-turn and was able to go around a nearby tree in a circle, making sure he could turn around. I was pointed further down the road, the wrong way – my options were much more limited than Jake. He had flat areas all around him, while I had a very steep hill to my left and right, with the upper one having what looked like a cornice and a steep drop off – not something I wanted to ride up and find out what was on the other side. Turning the machine around by hand would have been a 30+ minute struggle, as standing in 6′ of snow without snowshoes is impossible. It would also take Jake at least 20 minutes to get to me – it doesn’t look that far away, but trust me when I say it would take that long. So after a lot of discussion, I decided to continue down the road to what I remember being a wider open space and meadow where I could more easily turn around. Jake would wait where he was until he saw me come back, or come down and find me if he heard my engine go off, or after 10 minutes. This would be another fateful decision. # 12:30PM – Out of Control I started down the road, and after turning the corner and losing sight of Jake, I knew I was in over my head. The snow got even deeper, and I was having difficulty controlling my machine. Just to keep it from bogging down, I had to go very fast, and I started losing the road track. I tried turning left and right in the wider area I was at, and the machine continued to bog down and not want to turn. After another 1/2 mile of this, I saw a more open spot, and started to turn around a tree on my left. I went over. Fast. Almost immediately, I knew I was in trouble. I tried to accelerate and leaned way off the machine with my left foot dragging in the snow, but the machine wouldn’t turn. But I was committed. What I didn’t know was that behind the bushes and tree was a steep drop off into a bowl. I went over. Fast. # Getting Stuck The next few minutes are still a blur, but I remember threading through two sets of trees where my machine had almost no clearance, trying to turn uphill many times, but failing, and going down, down, down deep into a bowl. I finally was able to turn right pretty sharply, and below me saw an even deeper and steeper ravine that I was headed for, along with even deeper snow. I was able to make the turn and point back uphill, but the machine bogged down. I was stuck. Again. I had traveled about 500 feet down a very steep hill into a bowl, and I could barely see the blue sky above the ridges surrounding me. I knew I was in big trouble based on where I was, and that the likelihood of getting the machine out was very low. Over the next 15 minutes I tried to get the machine unstuck, completely running on adrenaline and thankful I hadn’t crashed coming down the hill, but freaking out inside my mind that I was really in a jam. # Jake joins the party A few minutes later, I heard Jake’s machine – he was following my path, as we agreed. I hoped he would see the crazy tracks of my machine, and stay on top of the ridge. My hope was not long lasted, as I soon saw him barreling down the same hill I did, a bit out of control himself, threading the same trees and obstacles that my adrenaline fueled brain had done only a few minutes before. I got on top of my machine and screamed at him to stop, made the universal signs for stop in as many ways as I could think (crossed arms, waving him away, etc.) but he still made it down and into the bowl near me, about 50 feet away. He stopped and his machine was not stuck, but he was still freaked out at having essentially fallen down the hill track with his machine. # 12:50PM – Getting Un-Stuck I started to try to get my machine un-stuck, but it quickly became apparent that I was in bigger trouble than I expected. The snow was so deep that every time I stepped, it would go up beyond my groin area, essentially trapping me. Trying to dig out my machine just became far more difficult. My first attempt at digging out, Jake was watching – he was 50 feet away, which would have taken him 10-15 minutes to get to me in this deep of snow. We did not have snowshoes. I got things as dug out as possible, and tried to move, only to have the machine jump forward a bit, and dig in even deeper. At this point the back track was nearly 4′ deeper than the front of the machine. The next strategy was to dig out all around the machine – including a 10′ track in front of the machine to allow for it to have a better chance moving forwards. This attempt resulted in getting further up the hill by about 15 feet. Progress! Keep in mind, though, that I am now moving around a 408 pound machine on my own. I am running on adrenaline, and I know it won’t last forever. > Things went from bad to worse… Time to unstick the machine the second time. This time I was stuck on a log – it was clear that they had logged or done some work here as a result of the Rock Creek forest fire earlier in the year. Same strategy, got further up towards Jake. Third time was similar. Still lifting the damn thing by myself, cursing and swearing, but feeling good about our chances. The fourth time was not as good – after digging out, I started moving more than any other time, got close to a tree that hit me in the face (I was wearing a helmet, but still!) and continued up about another 20 feet, very close to Jake. And then got stuck worse than all the other times. Things had just gone from bad to worse. I got off the machine and screamed a primal scream – Jake said he had never heard anything like it out of me ever before. I knew at this point that we were out of options with my machine, and that things were likely going to get worse. *Note: you’ll notice a complete lack of photos from now until much later in the evening. Jake and I talked about this later, and we both agreed that our bodies went into survival mode, and pictures were the last thing in our priority list. It’s interesting to think about that….* # 1:38PM – We’re Really Stuck At this point I figured it was time to let the folks back at the cabin that we were having problems, although I still thought Jake could get out and get help, or that we’d figure a way out. I took out my DeLorme inReach Explorer and sent a message to Josh Mackey and Josh Dyer, both at the cabin enjoying their Monday day off. Josh’s dad Dave was also there – we had come over for a nice 3 day weekend and to enjoy the snow. *Note: the below is the text message exchange on the DeLorme inReach Explorer. It is bottom-to-top order with the oldest being at the the bottom, and newest at the top. I have several other screen shots like this throughout the article.* *Also, the green is the base camp and blue is me.* ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DeLorme-inReach-we-are-stuck.png) InReach conversation stream After a few more minutes of talking options through with Jake, he tried to move his machine to prepare for potentially going for help, and got stuck badly too. It was time to start letting our support folks know that we may need help beyond what we can do ourselves. Scott, my brother, lived 45 minutes away in Yakima. “sar” is Search and Rescue, which was not something I wanted to do if I could avoid it, but I needed the seriousness of the situation to sink in. Dave, Josh’s dad, had to decode what “sar” meant for the boys – they knew things were serious after that! We promised to update them in an hour after continuing to try more ideas to get un-stuck. # 2:48PM – Time for Help After another couple failed attempts at un-sticking my machine, I was beginning to run out of energy. I had been running on adrenaline for over 2 hours, moving a 408 pound machine in deep snow and cold temperatures. It was still light outside, and the forest we were in was beautiful, but eerily quiet. Jake got his machine un-stuck, and tried to turn around and head back the way we came, but got stuck again. Clearly the forest did not want us to leave. I also had my drone with me, and got that out to see if we could figure out a better way to get out of the bowl, but everything looked like trees and snow. I was able to determine several less steep ways to get out, but we had yet to get our machines moving, so it was not useful information yet. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DeLorme-inReach-we-need-help.png) At this point it was time to call for serious help. My feet were getting wet for some reason, and starting to get very cold. I was worried about frostbite, and I knew that we’d be without light by about 4:30PM because of the arc of the sun and shape of the bowl. I told our base camp guys to call Scott – that we needed help. What I think scared me and them the most was the next message. > Stuck, cold, scared I didn’t mean to type it – it was just what I was thinking, and it freaked them out. I was freaked out as well. The inReach communicator was also having problems getting a lock on the satellites, which resulted in some of our messages not getting through – something that would happen the rest of the event. Hence the “Need help please answer” message. The good news was that Scott was coming, ETA 4:45PM – we didn’t know if that was to the cabin or to us. I assumed the cabin. # 3:38PM – Abandoning our Machines We decided to abandon our machines and try to hike out to the top of the bowl. Help was on the way, and getting to an easier extraction point would be best. My feet were very wet and cold, and after about 10 minutes of wheezing from both Jake and I trying to move through deep snow, we gave up and decided to try to stay safe and get warm. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DeLorme-inReach-made-fire.png) I didn’t believe that Scott would be to us before dark – it was already 3:38PM and it would get dark in less than an hour. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Fire-being-built.jpg) We have fire! After literally crawling to a tree I selected, my Boy Scout / outdoor / survival training kicked in. I selected a very large dead tree with lots of branches that were easy to reach for firewood. It had a large snow berm uphill that would protect us from wind and weather. I was literally almost spent – my feet were starting to show bad signs of freezing, and I could barely do anything significant without needing to rest. All of the efforts I had made to unstick my machine were taking a toll. > I was spent, my feet were freezing, we needed a fire Jake was a trooper and absolutely essential during this time. He gathered firewood, helped to dig out our shelter, and kept active, allowing me to focus on the fire. With a tiny bit of our emergency toilet paper, a bit of moss, and Jake’s lighter, I had a fire started on the first try. I guess you don’t forget these things after having been forced to learn it when you were 6 by your outdoor-freaky dad. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DeLorme-inReach-with-fire.jpg) InReach with our fire My feet getting warm while I send messages to the team at the cabin At this point I had a fire going, Jake was gathering wood, help was on the way and things were getting a bit more stable than the adrenaline-fueled last few hours. My biggest worry was my boots. They were new in the last few months, and held up well everywhere else. I had determined that the feet were leaking a lot and soaking my socks. # 4:37PM – Organizing and Preparing I was in full survival and planning mode now. Besides gathering firewood, making a good shelter was important, as well as taking inventory on everything we had. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Klim-backpack.jpg) Klim backpack Scott had a backpack we took with us that weighed in at about 60 pounds, and contained all sorts of useful stuff. Fire starters, emergency blankets, toilet paper, parts for the machines, food, and more. I had added the drone, extra gloves and a hat, and even more food and water. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Klim-shovel-and-saw.jpg) Klim shovel & saw But the best part of all was our savior – the Klim shovel and saw. It collapsed down and fit onto the backpack, but also extended to be a normal-ish sized shovel. Inside the handle was a very sharp saw which we used to cut firewood for hours. It was a lifesaver. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DeLorme-inReach-waiting-for-scott.png) In addition to taking care of ourselves, I needed to make sure our rescuer was not going to get stuck, as well as basic info about where we were. The keys were not to come down into the basin, and to bring snowshoes. We didn’t think we could climb out of the basin without them. > We were safe and help was on the way Base camp confirmed they got everything, and that Scott was on his way and knew where we were. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Fire-with-drying-rack-better.jpg) Drying my gloves By now it was starting to get dark, but we had a well established fire with a drying rack, and Jake had fashioned a way to use his water bottle to melt snow for drinking. We had taken a full inventory, eaten some granola bars, and drunk a lot of water. All of a sudden, I heard a snowmobile in the distance, and it sounded like the only one we left back at the cabin – the smaller Polaris 340\. After about a minute, we heard it go by and fade. It was still very far away, and we were worried that Scott was in the wrong place and had gone by us! > We were worried that Scott was in the wrong place… All we could do was continue preparing to be rescued, or to stay the night. Our fire area was pretty nice. I had a little seat you can see on the other side of the fire which was sunk below the snow level. I could sit there and never be exposed to the weather, and the fire heat was reflected all around me. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Jake-bough-setup.jpg) Jake's boughs Jake had thinner snow pants on and was getting cold while sitting, so he used some ingenuity from a survival TV show and got some green boughs to insulate his seat. We did a number of other improvements, I took my boots off and tried to dry everything as much as possible, and prepared to try to signal Scott. # 5:45PM – Making Contact ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Ruger-pistol.jpg) By now it was pitch black and starting to get very cold. I had already set things out in a very specific order around my seat in case the small headlamp and our cell phones failed and I needed to find something. Our fire was so deep down in the snow – at least 6′ – that there was no way Scott would see it when he got nearby. One of the first things I prepared was the pistol we were carrying, in order to signal Scott once he got closer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DeLorme-inReach-making-contact.png) We were having problems with the inReach Explorer sending and receiving messages because of the tree cover. I had to walk out away from the fire (remember, deep snow) and it would work after a minute or so. Josh had been trying to signal us to fire some shots so Scott could locate us. We finally got the message at 5:45PM, and I immediately grabbed the gun, and fired three shots to make sure Scott knew it was us. We waited a couple of minutes, and heard Scott yell in the distance to fire another shot so he could triangulate us, which I did. I can’t tell you how happy we were to hear his voice. A few minutes later he came tromping down the hill on snowshoes with a huge backpack full of food, water, and tools to get things out. Jake used his Samsung phone’s flashlight to guide Scott in. > 6:11PM – We have made contact At this point, Jake and I had been out in the elements for 7 hours, 4 of which we had spent working very hard. Scott was fresh and ready to try to get the machines un-stuck. Initially, both Jake and I were a bit confused – why wouldn’t we just walk out of here and come back another time, but Scott insisted that getting the machines out was possible, and – oh yeah – he only had one pair of snowshoes, so we couldn’t walk out. The machines were our best bet out. # 6:15PM – Scott to the Rescue Scott had driven the 340 snowmobile down our track when we turned off the main road only a short distance. He didn’t think it could make it down that track safely. He then set out on snowshoes down the track, at least 1.5 miles in further to where we were. Even with snowshoes, it was slow going and took him almost an hour to get near us. Then the delays with the inReach meant he sat and waited for a gunshot to make sure he was in the right place. We thought he had gotten to the wrong place because we had heard his snowmobile almost an hour before, and that seemed bad – like he had gone beyond our location. When we got the message to fire the gun, and that Scott thought he was near, I thought Scott was in the wrong place. We got some food and water in all of us, talked about how things happened, and what we thought were the best plans. After looking at our options, Scott thought he could get the bigger 800 machine out, but that we might have to drive the 440 down the hill further deep into a ravine that looked scary during the day, let alone navigating it at night. We couldn’t all snowshoe out, so the perfect plan was this: - Scott gets 800 out, snowshoes back down to us - Scott somehow gets 440 out, takes large backpack with him, leaves snowshoes - Steve uses snowshoes to hike out up the hill (since my feet were super wet) and carries 60 pound pack, waiting for Jake at points - Jake follows Steve up the hill – his boots were working good, but it would be rough going Scott went to work on the 800 machine, and within about 15 minutes, had dug things out and started it up. He immediately drove it right up the hill, feathering the throttle like he was swimming across the big dunes, weaving through tons of trees, stumps and other things, and went right up the steepest part of the hill. > The most difficult bit of riding he’d ever done As he went up, it looked completely effortless until he hit a big cornice at the top, and the machine almost went vertical, but blew through and disappeared from our view! He said later that it was a huge amount of snow, and then there was a tree and a stump on the other side to thread through before he landed on the top of the ridge. He also said it was the most difficult bit of riding he had ever done! Not something Jake or myself would have EVER been able to do. Jake and I didn’t hear anything for a couple of minutes, so we assumed the worst – that he had blasted through the snow at the top, and disappeared into a hole, or worse that he was hurt or knocked out. A few minutes later he appeared, much to our relief, coming down towards us on snowshoes. He had fallen in a tree well while getting back down to us. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DeLorme-inReach-first-machine-out.png) It was now 7:10PM and we had been in the elements for 8 hours. It also was getting very, very cold, very quickly. Water was freezing no matter where we put it, a Diet Coke I had froze even faster. Our breath was frosting out in front of us no matter how close we were to the fire. If we had to stay the night, we were definitely going to need a lot more firewood, and a lot more shelter. Jake and I both started working on the firewood and shelter problem, even though Scott got one machine out. We still didn’t have enough machines close by to transport all of us, so I was resigned with having to stay for 2 more hours while Jake and Scott went back to the main road and came back for me later. # 7:15PM – Epic Digging The 440 snowmobile was not as badly stuck as the 800, but there was no way it could go up the hill the same way the 800 did. Scott used his walk back down to us to scope out the best way back up, and he felt that the way I had come down, and then Jake following me, would be the best. Strange to think that the terrible cliff I felt I went over was the shallowest of them all around the bowl – I guess I was lucky… Scott had a ton of energy, so after resting a bit, he went to work digging a path for the 440 over to our original track. Both Jake and I were amazed at his energy – he dug for almost 30 minutes nonstop! At least 75 feet of path in deep snow over to the original track. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DeLorme-inReach-second-machine-out-hike-beginning.png) Typing on the inReach was getting hard to do with the cold, as evidenced by my wonderful penmanship. I usually use a paired cell phone via Bluetooth, but that wasn’t working for some reason. I also doubt the phone would have worked for long in the cold. A few days before my iPhone shut itself off when I took it out in 15F temps. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Jake-at-the-fire.jpg) Jake at the fire keeping warm I was also worried about the three guys back at base camp. We had all planned on leaving at 4pm to get back to Seattle and our jobs. But they’re all good friends and were never going to leave while we were in danger. Scott came over after his epic dig and dropped off the snowshoes – I would be using these to get out with the heavy pack after he drove the 440 out. He was nowhere near as confident in getting it out as the 800 but we had to try. After a quick rest, he went back to the 440, fired it up, and got ready. Jake and I began packing our camp up in the hopes that we could start hiking. A few minutes later, Scott drove the hell out of the 440 up a hill that should have never allowed it to leave – right up to the top. After a big whoop of elation from all of us, and him letting us know he was OK, we had all of the machines out and up on the top of the ridge. Now it was our turn. # 7:50 PM – Hiking Out We had been in the elements now for almost 9 hours, and were beyond tired. We faced a 500 foot hike up a very steep hill in some of the deepest snow I have ever been in. After putting out the fire, and making sure we didn’t leave anything critical behind, it was time to go. Jake had great boots, gaiters, and snow pants and was warm and dry. I had leaky boots with wet socks, so I won wearing the snowshoes and carrying the big pack, along with a great little headlamp. Jake offered to take our two helmets, as well as the LED lantern you see in the pic above of him at the fire. After a few hundred feet, it became clear it was going to be an epic hike up this hill, especially for Jake, who was post holing into the snow every 3rd step up to his waist. Leave it to Jake to come up with a unique way of solving this – he tied his ski goggles around his neck and hung the lantern on them. Then he used the helmets on each hand like a snowshoe, and he crawled on his knees the entire way up the side of the hill. I don’t think I have hiked as hard as I did going up that hill since my early 20s. I was seriously worried about not being able to make it up the steep parts, or having a heart attack or worse. How the hell Jake did it on his knees behind me is beyond me, but he kept up with me most of the way. Making it to the top was so sweet, so rewarding that even thinking about it now brings tears to my eyes. Both Jake and I hugged Scott, who was sitting on the 440 waiting for us. We were out of the hardest part of this long, nightmarish day. # 8:25PM – Out! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/DeLorme-inReach-out.png) I dashed out a quick message to the base camp to let them know we were out. They’d also see our tracker move, as I had set it before leaving this morning to update the map every 10 minutes. Jake took one of the packs, got back on the 440 and rode down to the 800 which was about 1000 feet away. Scott stumbled through the snow without snowshoes while I carried the other pack and snowshoed down to the 800\. We both got on the 800, and started the mile-plus drive slowly back to the smaller machine Scott left at the main road. > Both machines out and hiked up the hill- starting back home Driving back along my track I saw how deep the snow was, and how erratic my path was. It was clear that I was in over my head when I came down this way. We made it out to the main road, I kept the 800 since I had ridden it up and was familiar with it, Scott took the 340, and we began the 45 minute trip down the winding road back to the cabin. The trip back is mostly a blur – it was really hard to drive as it must have been below 15F and everything froze. The trail had not been groomed in weeks, and was bouncy as heck. I don’t know how Scott and Jake fared as I had the cushier machine – it must have been a lot of bumps! Scott did take the time, as he was in the lead, to have a fun ride, and went up and down the sides of the main road, hills, and other things on the way back. What a crazy guy. As we came down the last section of the trail, high up on the mountain, we could see down to the cabin, and the snow monster that the guys had made two days before out of snow and Christmas lights – it was beautiful. # 9:10PM – Home Safe We still had to cross Highway 410 and navigate through some trails back to the cabin. As we were doing this, the resident elk who have been eating alfalfa hay we had put out were spooked from their sleeping spots. Scott and I saw them and they went away from us. The biggest one veered towards Jake who was at the end of the line, but stopped just short of anything bad. Can you imagine surviving this whole ordeal only to be kicked in the face by a elk!? We arrived to hugs and help from our three base camp coordinators. Everyone hung out for about an hour and talked about the ordeal. Scott had to go home to his family, and we all thanked him profusely. We found out later that he loves doing this sort of stuff, and goes out at night frequently. Any excuse to go tromping around and a bit of danger is not something he can turn away from. I have to say that I’m cut from the same Mitchell cloth – my domain is the sea and boats, though. To each their own. # Stats ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Snowmobiles.jpg) Our trusty rides Our snowmobiles ended up saving us in the end. If we had to walk out to the cabin, it would have taken us several days, even if we could have made it through the deep snow. Scott was right to insist on trying to get them out as the fastest way for us to get home. From left to right above, the 340 was the one Scott rode up to save us. The 800 is in the middle, and the one that caused the majority of my problems. The 440 is Jake’s and on the right. We were out in the elements from 11:00AM to 9:00PM – 10 hours. That’s a long time to be out and about in 20-15F temps! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/where1-aerial.png) Location of InReach messages You can see my path down the road on the top of the ridge, and then the updates and messages while we were trapped in the basin. Because of the trees, the GPS location moved around a bit – we did not / could not move that much. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/where-topo.png) The topographical map really shows the elevation change – we estimate we had a 200 foot elevation difference between where we were and the top of the ridge. Try climbing that in deep snow at 8PM at night when you’re tired! # Things we did wrong - Novice riders in deep snow – we went out the day before, and gained false confidence. In the future, we should make sure the snow is manageable for our riding capabilities. - Separating when I was trying to turn around – we should never have separated that far apart. It meant Jake had no safety equipment or way to contact anyone, and he couldn’t know where I was when he started following my track. - Not bringing more safety / clothing in case we were stuck overnight – Jake should have had his own safety equipment, and we should have had more clothes. - Turn around when you think it’s not safe – I should have turned around right where I was instead of going down a deep snowy road. Even if it meant an hour of digging and lugging the machine around. - Base camp – we should have educated our base camp folks as to the seriousness of a call, and certain terms or things to do if we were in trouble. Example was using “sar” which the boys didn’t get, but Dave thankfully understood. # Things we did right - Safety equipment – we had good safety equipment including the shovel, pistol, DeLorme inReach, and many other items. Many people I know who go out in the wilderness have taken far less. - Food / water – we had enough food and water if we stretched it for 2 days. - Communicator – the DeLorme inReach Explorer was our lifeline to our team at the cabin. It gave us hope, and let us get help fast! - Worked together & stayed calm – sure we had some stressful moments, but overall we knew we could take care of ourselves for as long as we needed to. - Called for help – when we knew we couldn’t do things on our own, we called for help. - Stayed safe – once we knew we needed help, we stayed safe, played it safe, and made sure we were prepared for a longer time # Stuff we love - [Garmin inReach Explorer+, Handheld Satellite Communicator with Topo Maps and GPS Navigation](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY03CZP?tag=sailbits-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) – by far this was our biggest savior – we could communicate with anyone we needed to and let them know what was going on. They could track our GPS location on a map, and send messages back to us. Worst case, I could have pushed the SOS button and had Search and Rescue come and find us. Even after being used two days in a row, and sending tons of messages while we were being rescued, the thing had 70% battery and said it could last another 5 days sending updates! - [Klim Back Country Shovel system](http://www.klim.com/KLIM-Back-Country-Shovel-System-5065-000?ref=seabits.com) – this thing was the best tool we had on hand. It shoveled hundreds of pounds of snow, hollowed out a space for our fire, and got all of the machines un-stuck. The saw inside cut all of our firewood and kept us warm. - Ruger pistol – both for protection and signaling, if you go out in the wilderness, a pistol is a good thing to have. It gave us peace of mind the whole time we were up there. - My crazy brother – for jumping in a car, then a snowmobile, and then hiking out in the wilderness in the dark to come rescue us. We can’t say enough about how much we love him. # Summary I’ve been stuck out in the elements overnight many times before – in all seasons and both on land and sea. Most of these were because of getting lost, or weather related. Growing up in a family that hunted constantly and took crazy long outdoor vacations meant that I had to learn survival skills, and they have come into play many times in my life. Being a Boy Scout also helped hone these skills. I’d rank this experience as one of my top 5 risky experiences ever, which is saying a lot. We had the potential for major injuries at many points of the ordeal, along with serious weather and temperatures. Had we not had the communicator, we would have been completely on our own, and had to wait for rescue far longer. There was a lot of uncertainty about being rescued, and how we’d get out and safe. Never at any point did I think we would die, but I was worried about our stamina and staying power if we had to stay the night. Multiple friends have commented before on my redundancy, and my technology gadgets that help with these things, like the inReach Explorer. Some of them questioned why I had those things, or why a float plan (for the boat) is necessary. After this experience, they have completely changed their tune. Being prepared isn’t something you do randomly – it’s part of your DNA. The biggest moral of this story is just that – **Be Prepared**. Whether you are at home, on the water, or in the mountains, make sure you have what you need to survive should the worst happen. I always try to, and it’s saved my life multiple times. ### Drones on sailboats URL: https://seabits.com/drones-on-sailboats/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:13:48.000Z I’ve been flying quadcopters, more commonly now called drones, for about 5 years. Early on they were more of a fun hobby to try to learn, and less about quality pictures and video. In the last few years, that has completely changed, and you can now find drones in use for legit movies and photography all over the place. I have lots of [photos](http://photos.sailbits.com/Landscapes/?ref=seabits.com)and [videos](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCPDhL7tEPyu1i1VzrTDOMA?ref=seabits.com) I’ve taken with mine, but I have had a tough time figuring out a way to do it on the sailboat with the size and complexity – until now with the [Mavic Pro](https://www.dji.com/mavic?ref=seabits.com). There are beautiful vistas and opportunities while sailing, and the drone would be fantastic to include in my toolkit. The Mavic is small enough to be out of the way, and can be taken off and landed very easily compared to the larger systems I’ve had – even on a sailboat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Ferry-terminal-from-the-road.jpg) Lummi Island Ferry terminal from DJI Phantom 4 drone I’ve flown a lot from land, even out over water, but being able to take the drone on the boat, and fly from wherever I am would be fantastic. I’ve seen a lot of other people using drones from boats, but they’re generally on a power boat which don’t have rigging and other bits to get caught up in. [Laura & Kevin over on Riveted](http://riveted-blog.com/?s=drone&ref=seabits.com) have shot some spectacular video and photos with their drone, and I’m looking forward to being able to do the same! A few weeks ago I lost my first drone – a beautiful DJI Phantom 4 Pro. I’ve crashed a number of times, but I’ve never had one fly away or crash somewhere I couldn’t retrieve them. The video above was stitched together with some of the low-resolution footage I could retrieve from the lost unit while it sat 200′ up in a pine tree. You can see the crash at the end of the video. So it was time to look for a replacement, and while I have had my share of ordering nightmares and issues with DJI, they are the industry leader right now, and have the best features and hardware. The Mavic Pro is one of their newest and smallest drones, and had quite a wait list, but I was lucky enough to get one in a couple of weeks. I chose the Fly More bundle which included a bunch of extras. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro2.gif) On first glance, this thing is tiny, and an engineering marvel. It starts as a small shoe-sized hunk of plastic, and folds out into a fully fledged drone! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro-Size-Top.jpg) You can get a sense for the size of the thing – I can hold it easily in my hand. Compare this to the large oversized backpack (near a small airline carry-on) that I’m used to with standard drones, and all the weight and setup required. The Mavic is so small, and can be unpacked and in the air so fast it makes my head spin. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro-Bag-Open.jpg) The carrying case holds the drone, remote control, two spare batteries (plus one in the drone itself) spare props, and cables. I can’t fit the chargers in the bag, but with 3 x batteries with a flight time of \~25 minutes each, I have a solid hour-plus of flight time before having to put a battery on a charger. The fly more kit includes: - Drone - Remote control - Carrying case - 3x batteries - 10x props - Standard charger - 4 battery charging stand - Car charger - USB battery connector thingy That’s basically all you need for a decent photo or video shoot without having to buy anything else. More batteries are pretty inexpensive, but the kit comes with a car and AC charger, so you can rotate through the three batteries while having one on charge at any time. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro-Props.jpg) The engineering that DJI put into this makes it possible to be so small and compact. The props even fold in half to save space. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro-Camera.jpg) Even with this small package, the camera is still really good quality – 12MP still photos, and up to 4K video footage, all stabilized by a pretty awesome gimbal. For my purposes, which is mostly on the photo side, and definitely not for Hollywood movies, the quality loss from something like the bigger DJI Phantom series is a completely acceptable trade off – especially for the reduction in size and quick setup. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro-Bottom.jpg) The Mavic has similar forward looking and bottom sensors to avoid obstacles, hold over points on the ground, and auto land easily. These sensors are also used for some pretty cool features, including several that I think could circle the sailboat while we are underway even without my input (trace, profile, spotlight), as well as tripod and selfie modes that could be really unique perspectives for photography while on the water. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro-Controller-Close.jpg) The controller is equally compact, and unfolds both antennas and holding arms for your phone. Your phone is used for real time 1080/720p video from the drone for up to 4.3 miles away (you should never fly that far away), as well as control of the photo/video settings, along with tons of other items. This is the same interface I’m used to from bigger DJI drones, but with a smaller screen, and higher quality video (strangely enough). The controller itself should be standard with bigger drones – the flight characteristics, battery info, speed, RPM of props and a ton of other info is displayed constantly. I can’t tell you how many times I have had the DJI iOS or Android app crash while flying, and have been completely blind until things are back up and running. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro-3-battery-charger.jpg) Simple way to charge all three batteries. Only charges one at a time though. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro-Car-Charger.jpg) The car charger is supposed to charge the batteries faster, which will be nice to use on the boat off the battery bank if needed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/Mavic-Pro-USB-add-on.jpg) There’s also a little bit of plastic you can connect to a battery which allows for 2x USB charging ports. Marketing materials say they could be used for charging your phone or other devices while out flying, or even the controller if it’s low. A nice touch! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/02/20140822-Cabin-August-Day-2-11_HDR.jpg) I’m looking forward to taking beautiful photos and videos like the one above from one of my previous drones, but off of the sailboat and around Puget Sound! ### 3D printing for the boat URL: https://seabits.com/3d-printing-boat/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:15:11.000Z A while back I bought a [Lulzbot Taz 6 3D printer](http://amzn.to/2jOj1qc?ref=seabits.com) with the goal of creating and selling a boat-specific product online. I’m still working on that design, but in the meantime, I’ve been able to print a number of useful items for the boat, and some random trinkets just for fun. I see a lot of other uses for the printer in both home and sailboat, and can’t wait to see what other people produce with their design brains as well. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Lulzbot-Taz-6-printing.jpg) Taz 6 3d printer 3D printing is nothing new to boats, but I think the potential for people to create new products and ideas is just beginning. So far, I’ve printed tons of keychains, small animals, names, symbols and other rather useless things. It’s very mesmerizing to watch, and recently I installed a bed-mounted camera that allows for slightly better views of the actual print happening. The potential for doing much more comes into play every day that I think of things while working on projects. For instance, I recently moved my MikroTik WiFi router and couldn’t find the right spacer for the mount, and ended up printing a quick one when I got home. Not having to go to a store, and having a custom made part instead of hacking something from West Marine into the mix is a new level of freedom and quality. I’ve printed various types of plastic (ABS, nGen, HIPS) as well as copper & wood. I have not yet printed rubber or gaskets because my printers head doesn’t support it, but that could be very useful on a wet boat. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Filament-in-boxes.jpg) Currently, [nGen by colorFabb](http://colorfabb.com/co-polyesters/ngen?ref=seabits.com) is my favorite material to print with for general use. It is not as fragile as HIPS, and does not have the terrible fumes of ABS, yet is surprisingly similar. It’s a co-polyester filament that is super shiny and very tough. It seems to be easy to print with, doesn’t require crazy things to get started, isn’t killing me with fumes, and is flexible but resilient in all of the applications I’ve used so far. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Lulzbot-Taz-6-close-up.jpg) Close up of printer bed My brain still can’t fathom printing in wood or copper, and the resulting things I’ve created in that medium so far have been a napkin holder and more keychains. I’m sure there’s a more practical application, but I haven’t found it yet. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/thingiverse-logo-2015.png) My primary way of finding things to print is [Thingiverse](http://www.thingiverse.com/?ref=seabits.com). Not only are there tons of things to print, like a [Bat Signal for your iPhone](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:657146?ref=seabits.com), or an [Ethernet cable manager](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1320948?ref=seabits.com), but you can load many of them in the [Customizer](https://www.thingiverse.com/customizer?ref=seabits.com) and change all sorts of properties before printing. It’s quite a wonderful set of tools, and there are even more sites out there with even more things to print. Some even charge for their models, and they are pretty amazingly designed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160315-fridge-optimizer-11_DxO-1.jpg) Stainless Lobster Fridge Optimizer – a 3D printed product There are already 3d printed products in the marine market, like the [Stainless Lobster Fridge Optimizer](https://seabits.com/save-battery-beer-stainless-lobster-fridge-optimizer/) I’ve written about before. I have some really cool ideas that I alluded to earlier in this post, and can’t wait to prototype and print. It gives the average consumer a way to create a product with a very low barrier to entry. There’s a [great article on Practical Boat Owner](http://www.pbo.co.uk/expert-advice/3d-printing-boat-parts-20440?ref=seabits.com) about printing boat parts and the selection process for printer and filament. It’s a couple of years old, and technology has been moving fast, so there are a lot of other options out there, but it is still good reference. I chose the [LulzBot Taz 6](http://amzn.to/2joWotX?ref=seabits.com) after a lot of research and 6 months of thinking about the purchase. Thanks as well to Steve Roberts @ [microship.com](http://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) for his thoughts around LulzBot and letting me play with his LulzBot Mini aboard his floating substrate [Datawake](https://microship.com/meet-datawake/?ref=seabits.com) several times throughout the process. LulzBot impressed me with their support, being made in the US, and most of all, being Open Source. These devices aren’t cheap, and knowing that I’m not locked into a particular companies roadmap, or stuck with a printer that isn’t getting updates or enhancements is a comfort. On top of that, the Taz 6 is an amazing printer, with tons of [top-of-the line specs](https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-taz-6?ref=seabits.com) at an affordable price. The two key ones for me are the size of the bed (11 inches square) and the auto leveling bed itself. This last one is something that other printers require you to calibrate constantly, sometimes every print job, and can be very frustrating and time consuming. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/HIPS-printed-watch-stand-for-Huawei-watch.jpg) HIPS printed watch stand for smart watch Case in point on the bed leveling and quality of LulzBot – in the 2+ months I’ve had the printer, I’ve only had one failed print, and it was made with HIPS which is notoriously brittle. Everything else I’ve made has been usable in some way, albeit some less than others. I have had some less-than-level prints due to heat and curing, especially with HIPS. Above you can see a watch stand I printed for Josh that, while functional, does not look terribly great because the print warped up from the hot bed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Screen-Shot-2017-01-31-at-9.50.05-AM.png) The other piece that has made printing with the Taz very easy is [OctoPrint](http://octoprint.org/?ref=seabits.com), specifically their [OctoPi](http://octoprint.org/download/?ref=seabits.com) derivative that runs on a Raspberry Pi. I have a dedicated Pi that runs the software and has made using the printer super easy. No need to have Cura, the software that comes with the printer, running on my Mac and connected all the time – I can submit print jobs to the OctoPi and have it manage and run it for me. It also produced the nice timelapse video above, and allows for a ton of other management of the printer itself when changing filaments – all accessible via a secure web interface. The next step for me is learning the design software world. There are two main front-runners that have been recommended: [Blender](https://www.blender.org/?ref=seabits.com) and [Autodesk Fusion 360](http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview?ref=seabits.com). So far I have not had the opportunity to do much with them, although Blender looks slightly better and more along the lines of what I want to do. The practicality for using a 3d printer for rail mounts, shims, and organizers on the boat is great, but what I’m really interested in are more specialized products specific to my boat model, year, and customizations. I hope to see more from boaters out there who can afford to purchase one, and have the design time to start creating cool things. That’s what I intend on working on this year! ### Grace's redundant Internet setup URL: https://seabits.com/grace-redundant-internet/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:16:24.000Z I have spent most of my professional life working on and fixing networks, and always want my personal network to be as reliable, speedy, and full of features as possible. My boats are no exception, and while I’ve written about [Grace’s network before](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/), I’ve never focused on the Internet/WiFi portion of it in detail. It’s obvious that boaters are interested in varying approaches to this, given the popularity of my recent article on [Marina WiFi being hard to implement](//marina-wifi-hard/). So, without further ado, here is a deep dive on my network, and the things I like / dislike about it. # Overview There are two major components to my system – a high quality, multi-function local router ([Peplink MAX Transit](https://www.peplink.com/products/max-transit/?ref=seabits.com)) and a dual-band WiFi repeater/router ([MikroTik Groove A 52 ac](https://amzn.to/2TpbHov?ref=seabits.com)). The Peplink is the core of the system – it provides a local WiFi network on both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands, a LAN port to connect wired devices to via a downstream switch, a WAN port to connect the MikroTik, and dual SIM slots to connect to a cellular carrier for Internet access. The MikroTik allows me to connect to remote WiFi signals. It’s connected via an ethernet cable directly to the Peplink WAN port. It supports both 2.4 and 5Ghz WiFi networks, giving me more options for connecting. Having a dedicated device to grab WiFi signals is critical to having a quality, high speed connection. This allows me to avoid using LTE data plans in places where WiFi exists. In addition to the two core pieces, there is an outdoor LTE antenna SureCall SC-288W to ensure a strong signal, high quality ethernet cabling everywhere which is run far away from interference, a wide voltage range PoE injector for the MikroTik, and everything runs off of 12v DC power to be left on 24×7. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Boat-Network-Diagram.png) Grace’s network diagram ## Peplink MAX Transit ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Peplink-installed.jpg) Peplink MAX Transit installed The Peplink MAX Transit product is perfectly designed for a boat, and has a ton of features worth talking about. It is a pricey piece of equipment (around $800) but well worth it because of the design, reliability, and functionality. Here are some key features: - Full router feature set (tons of features here) - Dual SIM slots / dual LTE antennas - Dual simultaneous 11ac WiFi radios (2.4Ghz/5Ghz) - DC power block (12-48V DC input) - WiFi as WAN - VPN - Advanced QoS - Much more The full list of features is on [Peplink’s page](https://www.peplink.com/products/max-transit/?ref=seabits.com) near the very bottom. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Peplink-MAX-Transit-connectors.png) Peplink MAX Transit connectors The device is very compact, and the industrial design is beautiful. On the bottom of the unit is the power connector block which is removable to allow for ease of wiring, and also has connections for a serial port interface, which I do not use. Below that are two USB micro ports that could drive wireless dongles or other devices, which is a nice touch. There are some status LEDs, LAN and WAN port, and a standard wall-wart power jack as well. On the top are a ton of connectors for all of the antennas – two SMA LTE antennas, one GPS, and two RP-SMA for the local WiFi networks it creates. Here are some of the key features I leverage on the boat: ### Dual LTE SIM ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Peplink-Celluar-Status-Page.png) Cellular Status Page I use both AT&T and Verizon SIMs in the Peplink to allow me to connect to whichever provider is stronger wherever I am traveling. At a quick glance, you can see which SIM is in use, signal strength, IP addresses, and other useful info. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Peplink-Cellular-Settings-Page.png) Cellular settings If you delve a bit deeper, you can find settings which allow for granular control over which SIM to use, how to check whether things are healthy, and many other configuration choices. This is one of my favorite parts about the Peplink – being able to setup two completely independent LTE cell phone providers, and having it fail back and forth to whichever is more available, has more data, etc. This allows for always-on connectivity without having to change settings, swap SIMs, or even interacting with the device. ### Dual 11AC WiFi radios & external antennas ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Peplink-top-antennas.jpg) Peplink MAX Transit Antennas The MAX transit is one of very few products I have used that has both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz WiFi radios in a compact, mobile package. Most devices are still only offering 2.4Ghz which is very congested in most marinas. Having 5Ghz provides super fast and speedy WiFi signals to all of the modern devices on the boat, especially guests and mobile devices. This is especially true given that 5Ghz works much better over short ranges, and that means people on the boat have speedy, reliable connections. In the picture above you can see the two WiFi antennas pointing straight up, one for 2.4Ghz and one for 5Ghz. In front of those are the two antennas for LTE / cellular connections. One is pointed straight out in this picture (the one on the left) and the other is connected to a cable leading to the external antenna out on the stern rail. ### DC power Few WiFi routers on the market have DC power input and even fewer have an input range from 12V-48V. Add to that the super convenient power block for wiring, and you have a great router ready to run off of boat power. I like this feature mainly so I don’t have to worry about AC inverted power, converters, or the like to ensure the Internet connection is always on. Additionally, it provides a measure of security – I have mine wired in via a dedicated fuse to the battery bank so that it is always on, regardless of whether house power is on or off. ### Full Router Features ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Peplink-Dashboard.png) Peplink MAX Transit Dashboard screen There are too many features in the Peplink to cover in this post, but suffice to say, it is one of the most powerful and feature rich routers I have used. In fact, I have their small business products at home and the family cabin and have quite complex networks. For the boat, there are many great features, such as the dashboard above, that can help in troubleshooting problems, and provide tons of information and options. One of the most critical and best implemented features is the priority WAN connection control. Above you see I have my LTE cellular connection in first priority, and then my MikroTik in Priority 2\. This allows for near seamless switching between these connections in case of a failure, or just while changing locations. It’s so good, I don’t ever have to change things – when we’re at a marina connected to WiFi via the MikroTik, we can just pull out and leave, and the system will note when the WiFi connection drops, and simply start using the LTE connections. Crew have been using the Internet while this happens, and never notice a thing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Peplink-Bandwidth-Settings.png) Bandwidth settings One of my other favorite features for the boat is bandwidth reservations. This allows me to setup groups of people – Manager, Staff and Guest above – and allocate specific amounts of bandwidth to them. You can even set individual user bandwidth limits. This is super helpful on the boat when we have multiple people all trying to stream Netflix or post videos or pictures from the day’s events. They fall in the “Guest” category, and if the connection is saturated, only get 1Mbps to work with. The Staff group is for my devices so that I can have a bit more bandwidth while planning and doing boat stuff. Critical devices like the chart plotter, AIS, and my SignalK devices fall in the Manager realm, who have more bandwidth and never are squashed. For Windows PCs and iPhone users, this is especially critical. Both of those devices have the tendency to completely saturate a connection either downloading updates (Windows 10 is particularly bad) or uploading photos (iPhone) and everyone else suffers. iPhones are particularly bad if you use iCloud to backup your photos – we’ve had a few guests on the boat that take lots of pictures of the day’s activities, and without these limits, would use a ton of bandwidth. ## MikroTik Groove A 52 ac ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/MikroTik-whole-unit.jpg) MikroTik unit with antenna The MikroTik Groove A 52 ac (a mouthful!) is a nice piece of hardware designed to grab remote WiFi signals via an antenna, and share them with an Ethernet port. It can also be setup to be a bridge, router, local WiFi point itself, and a bunch of other configurations. In fact, if there is anything wrong with the MikroTik, it’s that it’s too much of a swiss army knife, and can be a bit overwhelming to configure. It’s weather-proof and can be mounted outdoors – I have mine on the stern rail of Grace. Many people have had issues with the Rogue Wave and Ubiquiti Bullet (same hardware in those two units) failing because of marine weather conditions. The MikroTik is slightly better in my opinion, but will still likely have a failure in a year or two. I don’t mind as the technology for WiFi networks changes so rapidly, and these devices are so cheap ($79) that I can buy a new one every 2 years. If you invest in a Rogue Wave or other custom solution, it’s a different situation – having to pay $300-400 every 2 years is definitely not a solid choice in my book. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/MikroTik-closeup.jpg) MikroTik status icons The base unit has helpful LEDs that tell you whether it has a LAN connection (bottom) and then the signal strength of the WiFi signal it is connected to. While I’m out in the cockpit, I can glance over at it and easily determine whether we have a stable WiFi connection in whatever marina we’re in. On the bottom of the unit is the ethernet port, and a reset button, which you want to become familiar with. MikroTik has a very complex UI called RouterOS and you can definitely lock yourself out easily if you are not careful. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/MikroTik-OS-main-screen-v2.png) RouterOS main screen The main screen within RouterOS gives you a wealth of information about the connection, speed, strength, network settings and a graph of signal strength. On the left hand side you see the menu for all of the various options – each of those options have at least 3 other sub menus – some have 10-20\. This is one of the challenges with MikroTik & RouterOS – it has a ton of options and features, and is extremely complex to configure if you get deep in the menus. RouterOS is a full-fledged router operating system, capable of being an enterprise solution with all of the bells and whistles. For my use, I configured basic routing, DHCP, and then a bit more in the WiFi area to configure the security settings and SSIDs to connect to. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/MikroTik-OS-wifi-scan.png) WiFi network scan RouterOS is fantastic at giving you a wealth of information on the networks around you. Above you can see the various networks near me while testing, and all of the channel and signal strength information. When visiting a marina, this information is very useful in choosing the best network as well as access point. There are even more details if you click on each AP, and more screens throughout the interface that can be very helpful. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/MikroTik-OS-wifi-busy-scan.png) Busy wifi scan Another useful feature that I have not seen elsewhere is the ability to scan networks and get a channel list and usage numbers. This allows you to see which channels are too busy for good communication, and avoid connecting to an AP that is on those channels, or plan other connections. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/MikroTik-OS-wifi-settings.png) WiFi settings The depth of control over the WiFi radio (among other things) is pretty stunning, almost overwhelming. The basics are there, including channel, frequency, SSID and more. On top of that, you can get as detailed as channel chains, guard interval, and even more. This screen shot only shows about 1/3rd of the total options you can configure. While this is great if you need that power, for most users it will be overwhelming. You can also see a ton of other options at the top of the screen to setup the connections, provide a list of preferred networks, and much more. The amount of options is great, but again can be completely overwhelming to a normal user. I plan on posting a follow up article on how to configure a MikroTik for this purpose. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/MikroTik-OS-traffic-stats.png) Traffic stats You also get great stats on the connection and usage right in the interface. Overall, the MikroTik is a great device capable of amazing things, and serves the purpose better than Ubiquiti and other products for a lower price. It also supports 2.4 and 5Ghz networks, which most of the competition (if not all – I don’t know of anyone yet) does not support in a single unit. It’s single flaw is the complicated interface, which folks like Rogue Wave have simplified for the Ubiquti Bullet. # Design Considerations ## Reliability ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Outdoor-Antenna.jpg) Outdoor LTE antenna At the core of everything I have done with networks is reliability. That means having multiple ways of ensuring things work, and on the boat, that translates to more than one way of connecting to a remote signal. Combining the Peplink’s multi LTE feature with the MikroTik’s remote WiFi gives me a ton of choices to ensure I’m always connected to the Internet no matter where I am. In the last 15 years of having some sort of Internet connection on the boat, this is the most redundant setup I have ever had, and while cruising the last 2 years around Puget Sound and the San Juans, I have never been disconnected from the ‘net as of yet. ## Modularity Each component of the system should be independent enough to be able to be upgraded or replaced if needed. None of the devices I’ve chosen depend on the others. I could easily remove the Peplink and replace it with a Cradlepoint or a home grown solution if I wanted to. I’m using standard ports and connectivity – Ethernet, SMA antenna connectors, DC power, etc. – which are compatible with a wide range of hardware. This also gives me the ability to upgrade and test new items as they come out without completely ripping things apart, as I’ve done with the MikroTik vs. Rogue Wave. While testing at home is also possible, there’s nothing better than dropping a bit of equipment in the real environment and subjecting the crew to testing while out on the water. ## Management ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/inControl-Peplink-Management.png) inControl Management Managing a network of any kind is a critical factor in ensuring it runs well. Too often I see network implementations both on boats and for large scale companies that overlook this critical part of the system. For my boat network, having the Peplink management interface is fantastic, but I take it one step further and use their inControl2 interface. This provides a web-enabled view of the devices I have in my network, centralized logging, user statistics, and alerting and monitoring. If there is a problem with a port, connection, or VPN, I get an email immediately, and can see visually what is working / not working. I can also see performance trends, graphs, information and details on how the devices are working, as well as when their support contracts are due. All of this is free with the Peplink device. ## Remote Access ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/VPN-Server.png) My personal VPN network Accessing the boat from anywhere in the world is a requirement for my design as well. I have several devices on the boat, including an [iKommunicate](https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/) and [Raspberry Pi running SignalK](https://seabits.com/signalk-and-services-moved-to-raspberry-pi-b/), that provide critical information such as battery voltage, temperatures, and status of shore power that I want to monitor in case of an emergency. In addition, I use [SmartThings to drive on-board heaters](https://seabits.com/smartthings-keeps-boat-warm-winter/) in the winter, and ensure things are safe and sound – it requires Internet access, and when something alerts me, I need to be able to connect remotely as well. The Peplink connects via VPN to a remote server in the Amazon (AWS) cloud. This same cloud has connections from my home, and the family cabin in Eastern Washington. A bunch of firewall rules and other controls exist to prevent the average user from accessing everything. However, I can access pretty much everything, from everywhere. While sitting at the cabin, sipping my coffee on a winter’s morning with bone chilling temperatures, I can access everything on Grace without any crazy connections or risky ports open on my firewall. Traveling in Singapore, I can connect back to the boat and see how much water is in the tank, all safely and securely. ## Support & Community ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Peplink-Forums.png) While I am pretty good with networks and computers, I still want a good organization to back the products I install, and quality ways of getting support. I am also a big fan of online communities that enable you to find solutions and interact with both the people who make the product, and other users who use it. It shows the true side of the company and the product where they can’t hide from bugs and problems. There are two companies who have some of the best user forums I’ve ever come across – [Peplink](https://forum.peplink.com/?ref=seabits.com) and [Ubiquiti](https://community.ubnt.com/t5/custom/page/page-id/Forums?ref=seabits.com). Both have vibrant communities with representatives from the company that continually participate in the conversation. I’ve posted a number of threads in both, and had great conversations about configurations, bugs, features, and more. They’re very honest, and admit when there is a problem in their product, which is hard to come by nowadays. That alone provides me with a level of comfort that you can’t get most places, and keeps me coming back as a customer. # Other Solutions I have used, tested, and reviewed a ton of other solutions both for home and the boat. Some of these include: - Wirie AP - Rogue Wave - Non-marine solutions - Cradlepoint - MiFi / JetPack - MikroTik - Ubiquiti / UniFi - Home built Devices like the Wirie AP and Rogue Wave are purpose built for the marine industry, but use normal off the shelf components combined with custom firmware. My challenge with their products include: - Smaller company – support takes a lot longer, and they just can’t put the resources behind firmware updates and fixes that the bigger companies can. - Price – some of the components used in their configuration cost less than $80, yet are sold for $200-300. - Custom firmware – usually very restrictive and weird UIs. Only has features that they think boaters would want to use, others that the hardware supports are restricted or not available. - Reliability – constant failures and general reliability issues. That being said, if I wanted something that was almost as robust as what I have now, I would go with a Wirie solution, potentially their SIM enabled device. Fair warning, though that the device does not fail over between SIM and WiFi without manual intervention, like the Peplink does, and they have far fewer router features which would make my setup challenging. Non-marine solutions, such as your average home router, work very well, and are cost effective. Most non-tech boaters I know use solutions in this class, and don’t seem to have a ton of problems. However, they usually are only able to use remote WiFi signals, and do not have LTE or cellular connections. There are some solutions that will leverage a USB-connected device for this, but they are not mainstream. Peplink has a ton of other solutions such as the SOHO and Balance One which I’ve used and also support USB cellular devices such as a MiFi or dedicated dongle. Cradlepoint is a terrible company in general, and their product has become bloated and problematic. They have very little community support, unlike Peplink, and are generally overpriced. Many of the features you get for free with Peplink, you would have to pay hundreds more to get with Cradlepoint. I know of several other friends who abandoned Cradlepoint because of poor customer service and problems. MiFi’s and JetPacks are great, and I know many boaters that use them, but they don’t provide any redundancy, and usually have limits on how many devices can connect locally. They also have no Ethernet connectivity. They also use LTE networks, and usually you will have a data cap on them which you’ll quickly exceed with 5 heavy users on a wet weekend when no one wants to go outside. MikroTik has some solutions that can be used for the local WiFi and SIM/LTE stuff, but they are very complicated, and very difficult to use. Upgrades have completely broken functionality, and general hardware and signal strength is not as impressive for their AP products as the one I’m using. UniFi does not have solutions in this market anymore. Home built is great, but has many other issues – lack of the same redundancy and features, reliability, etc. They definitely are cheaper! # Conclusions ## Pros - Reliable and robust without user interaction - Modular and very configurable - Fast – 2.4 & 5Ghz local WiFi networks, LTE and WiFi for remote - Easy to manage, lots of visibility - Bandwidth sharing, QoS, VPNs - Full router features ## Cons - Not plug-and play setup - MikroTik interface confusing - Expensive All of that being said, I love my setup – it’s been rock solid wherever I am – underway, at a remote anchorage, or at the home marina, and I will always continue to enhance and iterate components and pieces as technology gets better, but the core bits will likely stay the same – a world class router combined with a WiFi repeater. I’d highly recommend all of the pieces to anyone who wants a great on-boat network with maximum flexibility and capability. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Netflix-and-chill-underway.png) Two crew members watching Netflix while underway last year ### Top projects from 2016 URL: https://seabits.com/top-projects-2016/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:18:36.000Z 2016 was a year of major projects on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), one which will not likely be repeated in terms of the depth and complexity. That is mainly because she was brand new to us in 2015-2016, and had some gaps in major systems we needed while out on the water. I wanted to recap three of those projects that made the biggest difference through the year, and provide an update on each. Those projects were [Replacing cockpit hatch boards with Zarcor doors](https://seabits.com/replacing-cockpit-hatch-boards-zarcor-doors/), [Installing a Wallas heater](https://seabits.com/installing-wallas-heater/), and the [Power System Upgrade](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/). There were plenty of other [projects](https://seabits.com/tag/projects/) that I completed last year, but these had the biggest impact. # The Doors ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/zarcor-cockpit-doors-outside-close.jpg) Zarcor cockpit doors The single best project from last year was [Replacing cockpit hatch boards with Zarcor doors](https://seabits.com/replacing-cockpit-hatch-boards-zarcor-doors/). Everyone loves how easy it is to get in and out, how quiet they are in the middle of the night, and how configurable they are. Since install, I’ve added bumpers behind the doors on the side of the cockpit entry itself so they don’t bang against the fiberglass when opened, and so they don’t vibrate while under motor. Other than that, they have been rock solid, no issues, no excessive wear, and have been one of the top site queries for people investigating things. Zarcor also featured my review of their product in a prominent place on their site, and I get questions about them at every marina I visit. I highly recommend them to anyone with hatch boards, not just Beneteau sailboats. They are an upgrade well worth the price, and will bring extra value and comfort to your boat. # The Heater ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Wallas-30dt-heater-install-control-panel-1-1.jpg) The second most popular project was [Installing a Wallas heater](https://seabits.com/installing-wallas-heater/), and not for the reasons you think. While we have used it a bunch during this unseasonably cold winter, the true benefit has been in the continuous use of the integrated fan to circulate air through the cabin 24×7. This has allowed us to wake up in the morning to no condensation and fresh air throughout the cabin. In addition, no mold or other nastiness has been present since install. The benefits of having the air exchanged inside the boat constantly are numerous, and I’m actually happier that we installed the heater for this purpose than to heat! Speaking of heat – the system has been tested quite a lot this winter while I’ve been on the boat doing projects, and for a couple of overnight visits. One recent visit was December 31st during New Years Eve celebrations. It was about 20F outside, and the doors were opened and closed a lot while folks went up to watch the fireworks. All during this time, the Wallas kept the cabin at a nice 68F without any issue. Based on the last 6 months of usage, it barely sips on fuel and is still amazingly silent, even while mounted on the bulkhead wall in our stateroom. The only thing I would change with our install is the day tank. While it was a very simple install, I would rather not have to fill a second tank with diesel at random times. Unfortunately the clearance on my normal diesel tank, and access to drill a new tap into it, is very minimal, so I am not sure this will happen any time soon. # The Power ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Power-System-Design.jpg) One of the biggest projects of last year was the [Power System Upgrade](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/). This included a [complete system redesign](https://seabits.com/power-system-design/) and tons of work over months of time to bring a whole new system online. There are many components of the system that help make it amazingly flexible, such as MasterVolt, but the key to the entire system are the Firefly batteries. The batteries have been absolutely amazing. Their biggest feature is the ability to drain them almost to 0% and still charge them back without damage. This has given me a real 300 amp hour battery bank with rapid charging capabilities. This has enabled us to have more electronics running including a new TV, spend longer times on anchor without having to worry about power, and allowed my [crazy network](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/) to function longer no matter what we’re doing. The batteries performance has been flawless – draining them down to 10% and then rapidly charging them with the new [alternator](https://seabits.com/charging-away-dock/) and charger. I’m still amazed at how well they work! I still have more documentation and posts to complete this year on the power system itself, particularly around the MasterVolt configuration and details. Overall, 2016 was a year filled with big, impactful projects, and I love the results. Here’s to even bigger ones in 2017. ### Marina WiFi is hard URL: https://seabits.com/marina-wifi-hard/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:19:28.000Z Recently I had the chance to spend a few weeks working on a local marina WiFi system. With my background in networking, and having deployed several large scale systems professionally, I knew that I was in for a difficult time to get things working as well as expected. But the configuration of their network was not the only problem. The bigger issue was the perception of the boaters throughout the marina, and the need to invest in equipment to improve the signal within their boats. In this particular case, the vendor who had sold the marina the WiFi system did not include on-site installation. This left marina staff installing wireless access points, switches, gateways, and all of the other technical bits on their own. Phone support was provided, but the system was completely broken when I arrived. This meant that the system was not fully configured, and in fact, it had some major design flaws. After several days of reverse engineering and sleuthing, I was able to get most of their system stable and running, and light years better than before. Regardless of this marina’s attempt, large-scale WiFi with lots of interference is a hard thing to do. There are two major problems: # Problem 1 – The Space Marinas are great open spaces for boats, but for WiFi signals, they are not so hospitable. You have tons of metal and fiberglass, along with moving targets due to the tides and water. On top of that, there’s usually other commercial signals bouncing around near marinas, not to mention the on-boat stuff like radars, local WiFi routers, and the like. The wide open spaces are also a curse of sorts – to cover and blanket that much space in WiFi signals requires a ton of access points, which are the devices you see hanging around with wild antennas on them. They usually house anywhere from 4-16 radios that broadcast the WiFi signals for your use. ![My home marina, Elliott Bay](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/IMG_2367.jpg) My home marina, Elliott Bay Marinas are also usually huge spaces – much larger than many corporate campuses, and closer to the size of a hotel conference space or stadium. To blanket that much space, you would need a huge quantity of access points very carefully tuned, and constantly updated based on the various environmental conditions that change. # Problem 2 – Boaters It is shocking to me how boat owners expect to connect to a marina WiFi network *without any equipment* and have the same experience they have at home. Where I live in a condo/apartment complex, I can see over 150 WiFi networks, and I have to have repeaters and extra access points to boost the signal within my tiny 800 square foot space. A marina is like a collection of small houses (boats) which all need the same type of technology if you expect high performance, streaming, and multiple device access. ![WiFi access points near my house](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/Screen-Shot-2017-01-04-at-8.52.29-PM.png) WiFi access points near my house Some would argue that at their workplace, such as a corporate campus like where I work, they have no issues using WiFi. Keep in mind that corporate WiFi is tuned to support a very narrow type of hardware – that which your company issues. They also have the ability to completely saturate a building with WiFi signals because of easy ability to install more access points – something marinas can’t usually do. Hotels do a decent job of this, although they have the same small space problem in guest rooms that boats present, and many times while I’ve traveled, I’ve had problems with performance in a particular room. Any way you cut it, you need your own repeater, extender, booster, or otherwise on your boat, period. If you want your TV to talk to your phone, and your PC to be able to control both, you also must have an onboard router and local WiFi network – connecting to public (or private) marina networks will almost never work because of security settings and signal strength. Another way to look at it is this: - 1000 boat marina - Assume 500 boats have 2 kids and 2 adults on board. - That’s 2000 devices – mom and dad have phones, kids have tablets. And that’s being conservative. Mom and dad are checking work email, reading Facebook, all fairly low bandwidth activities, but very noticeable if they are not responding. Mom complains very quickly if she can’t see the latest Twitter updates. The kids are the bandwidth hogs – let’s assume one is watching Netflix and the other is SnapChatting. That doesn’t count the TV that was left on downstairs using Hulu and updating every so often, nor the three PCs that are silently downloading Windows Updates. Just one family alone could be consuming upwards of 4Mbps of bandwidth, which if you multiply by our 500 boats, is over 2Gbps. Your average home internet connection is a fraction of that, and no marina I’ve ever talked to has had that bandwidth. The upstream connection is definitely a limiting factor, but the sheer amount of radio power required, in all areas of the marina, is the real culprit. # Recommendations ## For Marinas **Request for Proposal** – Make sure you do a request for proposal (RFP) for your WiFi design. Get at least three firms to propose how they’d install it, and make them come out and survey the site in person. **Design a Dense, Manageable System** – Ensure they saturate the space with both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz radios. Consider meshed products from UniFi and other vendors which allow you to add small, low power access points to dead spots, and have it “self heal”. You don’t need complex repeaters or other systems. Make sure you get a system that is centrally controlled so it can smartly manage the clients that are connecting, which will dramatically improve your end users experience. **Survey** – Make sure that they do a survey before and after, label everything everywhere, secure wires and equipment in remote areas that employees might have access to, and document everything. A local employee should be trained in how to monitor things on the basic level to ensure the system is operating normally. **Pay for installation** – this is a no brainer – none of your staff is likely versed in installing the correct cabling, let alone configuring the access points, gateway, security settings, monitoring, and a host of other things. Yes, it will cost almost as much as the hardware, but it is well worth it. **Pay for maintenance** – this stuff breaks – how often do you reset your router at home? Get a new one from Comcast/CenturyLink/other horrible provider? Yours isn’t sitting out on a pole with seagulls crapping on it either. Having someone do a once over every 3-6 months to make sure things are working is essential. ## For Boaters ### Boost it Get a MikroTik, Rogue Wave, WirieAP or other booster/extender. I personally use a MikroTik as I’m tired of paying $200-300 more for the same thing in a restrictive UI/web interface. MikroTik also comes in a dual band flavor (5Ghz/2.4Ghz) which is critical in today’s crowded 2.4Ghz world, and gives you the flexibility to swap back and forth between both bands. ![MikroTik Groove A 52 ac](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/1206_hi_res.png) MikroTik Groove A 52 ac I personally use a [MikroTik Groove A 52 ac](http://amzn.to/2hRGi6q?ref=seabits.com) which supports 2.4/5Ghz, as well as the AC band, a higher bandwidth technology. ### Use 5Ghz as much as possible 2.4Ghz is great for long distance connections, but modern WiFi access points have had a much faster, shorter range radios in them for years. These operate on the 5Ghz spectrum, and have a ton more channels available. Not only that, they can operate with bonded channels and other fancy things that give better overall throughput. ![2.4Ghz vs 5Ghz channels](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/dualbandwifi.png) 2.4Ghz vs 5Ghz channels – courtesy of MetaGeek.com In a recent install, I helped a friend switch from 2.4Ghz to 5Ghz and saw ping times to the local router (the one at the marina, next hop!) go from 100-300ms down to 1-3ms. That means Facebook, websites, and other things load almost instantly now, and from the user experience side, it makes a huge difference. ![2Ghz WiFi spectrum scan from a recent marina visit showing how busy it is](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2017/01/2Ghz-Wifi-Spectrum.png) 2Ghz WiFi spectrum scan from a recent marina visit showing how busy it is ### Local router Use a local access point/router on your boat. I use Pepwave’s Max Transit, which is admittedly a bit overkill for most boats, but I prefer their hardware design and software configuration. Regardless of what you use, you need to have your booster plugged into the WAN or otherwise port on a local WiFi router that is on your boat. That is the system that your TV, PC, phones, tablets, MFDs and everything else should connect to. It stays the same no matter where you travel. The booster is responsible for pulling the signal in from the marina and passing it off to the router. ### Install it right! When you install your MikroTik or otherwise, make sure you put it outside or somewhere where the antenna has the least interference. Fiberglass is actually not that bad to put things behind, but make sure there’s no other items in the way. Many of the MikroTik and Ubiquiti Bullet products are susceptible to weather situations, and will deteriorate if not sheltered even a bit. While this has been a big point some folks have brought up in the past, I always ask: would you rather buy a $70 MikroTik every 2 years, or spend $500 on one of the custom setups of the same hardware? Oh and in 2 years, 2.4/5Ghz WiFi networks will be all different, so that $500 setup won’t likely work the best. # Conclusions Large scale marina WiFi is hard. Many marinas don’t or can’t do it right because of budget or lack of technical support. They should pay for it to be designed and maintained correctly, and recommend ways for their visitors and members to access it through boosters and the like. Boaters need to expect to spend money on a router and potentially a booster to make their experience similar to what they have at home. ### SmartThings keeps the boat warm during winter URL: https://seabits.com/smartthings-keeps-boat-warm-winter/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:21:12.000Z I have an extensive automation system in place at home and the family cabin, and recently started realizing I had done next to nothing on Grace. I use SmartThings for most of the automation, and thought “why haven’t I done anything with this technology on the boat?” So I did. # What is SmartThings? I backed [SmartThings](https://www.smartthings.com/?ref=seabits.com) on KickStarter back in 2012, and was excited when the product shipped. The core of the product is the hub which speaks multiple protocols so it can interface and control both SmartThings-built and 3rd party devices. These include Zigbee, Z-Wave, and other IP based protocols. ![SmartThings hub](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/smartthings-hub.jpg) SmartThings hub, courtesy of blog.smartthings.com The hub connects to SmartThings branded sensors as well as hundreds of other 3rd party sensors and systems. At home, we have 5 motion sensors, 6 multi purpose/door sensors, 6 various outlet plugs, 3 presence sensors, and a handful of other random things. Some use Z-Wave, while others are Belkin Weemo switches. In addition, SmartThings interfaces with our Amazon Echo, Philips Hue lights, and Sonos sound systems. ![SmartThings at home](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/IMG_0183.jpg) SmartThings iOS app The level of automation we have in place at home is pretty crazy. There are routines for when we go to sleep, wake up, or arrive at home that turn security sensors off/on, lights up/down, and even start playing music at different times of the day. One of the most convenient parts of SmarThings is that all of the various home automation technologies are unified under one app – Sonos, Philips, sensors, etc. – so that all of the family can control things easily from one place. Most recently I setup a Philips Hue light strip in our bathroom and a motion/light sensor that triggers a warm red light only at night when the lights are off so you can find your way around. Grace’s automation will be simpler than that based on the available space, sensors, and needs. ![SmartThings Home Monitoring Kit](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Home_Monitoring_Kit.jpg) SmartThings comes in a few flavors, one of the most popular being the Home Monitoring Kit. This comes with a hub, outlet controller, motion detector, and two multi purpose sensors. This is what I purchased for Grace. # Architecture ![SmartThings architecture overview - courtesy of dev.smartthings.com](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/overview.png) SmartThings architecture overview – courtesy of dev.smartthings.com One of the things that drew me to SmartThings was their [architecture](http://docs.smartthings.com/en/latest/architecture/?ref=seabits.com). Not only was it very well thought out, but they provide a full developer API and [web login](https://graph.api.smartthings.com/?ref=seabits.com) to be able to connect your own devices, write your own automation, and so much more. I find it very helpful when debugging things to login to the web site and watch as activities flow by. You can tell if you’ve done something wrong very easily. ![SmartThings container hierarchy - courtesy of dev.smartthings.com](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/container-hierarchy.png) SmartThings container hierarchy – courtesy of dev.smartthings.com The overall design is really simple – start with an account, add locations, build rooms or groupings, and then your devices. Makes it easy for managing all of the bits like you would think about a room or space. # The Sensors ## Multipurpose ![Multipurpose sensor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/smartthings-multipurpose.jpg) Multipurpose sensor The multipurpose sensor is generally used as a way to detect a door opening. I’m using it on Grace as a way to detect temperature in the main salon and owners cabin. It can also be used to detect vibrations. ## Motion ![Motion sensor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/SamsungSmartThingsMotionSensor.png) Motion sensor I use the motion sensor to detect whether someone is inside the main salon. It is mounted above the door to the v-berth facing back towards the cockpit door. When I am away (as detected by the presence of my phone or presence sensor) the security system arms and watches for motion. ## Power Outlet ![Power outlet](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/SmartPower-Outlet_en-us.png) Power outlet The power outlet is driving an electric oil-filled radiator heater which is plugged in to a GFCI protected outlet near the v-berth. # Installation Installing SmartThings on Grace was pretty easy. I chose to use a DC-DC buck converter to take 12v from the battery bank and convert it to 5v, which the hub requires. This will allow me to run the hub and wireless sensors even without AC power. The hub requires an ethernet connection, which is a bummer as I have limited connections on that front. I hope they make a WiFi enabled version in the future. The rest of the sensors are battery powered and were stuck in place with adhesive. # Heat Control Using the power outlet combined with the multisensor in the main cabin, I used a simple set of logic to ensure that the heater was always on if the temperature was 55 degrees or less. ![heater-recipie](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/heater-recipie.jpg) Automation settings for Main Cabin sensor driving the Heater outlet ![Real time status and wattage](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/IMG_0128.jpg) Real time status and wattage Now I can see if the heater is on, the actual wattage being consumed, and turn it off remotely. ![Heater wattage records](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/heater-wattage-records.jpg) Heater wattage records You can also see historical wattage records, and other state history. ![Main cabin temperature](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/main-cabin-temperature.jpg) Main cabin temperature Viewing the main cabin multisensor, you can see the current temperature, and history as well. Heating the boat in the winter is important to be done safely and in a controlled fashion. Oil-filled radiators are very reliable and safe, but I hate when they are over heating the space or left on needlessly on warmer days. The automation I’ve put in place with SmartThings will allow me to control it more closely, turn it off when I know its no longer necessary, and I also have a full security system as a side benefit. There are a lot of other things I’d like to automate, including bridging SignalK alarms and alerts into SmartThings, or perhaps even a full API link between the two. For now, being able to manage the heat remotely is a great first step. ### A boat vacuum that sucks URL: https://seabits.com/boat-vacuum-sucks/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:31:54.000Z I admit, I’m a bit OCD, and hang out with other folks who are as well. We like the boat as clean as possible when we’re at anchor or at the dock. While we’re underway, we tend to make a mess – food being prepped below, things going back and forth, and general use. Having a good quality vacuum is critical, and up until now, all of the options sucked, or rather, didn’t suck enough. ![Makita vacuum](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Makita-Vacuum.jpg) My long time favorite for a sailboat vacuum was made by Makita Tools and was compatible with the battery packs for my drill, light, and saws which made it very convenient from a usability perspective. We always had extra battery packs, chargers, and could swap things around. But it just never had enough suction, and attachments were terrible. I used this model for years on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) and more recently on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) and had good luck with it, but was never happy. Prior to that, I used a mix of corded and cordless vacuums that all had something not quite right. The corded ones were always irritating because of the cord getting caught, and weren’t usable while on anchor or away from the dock. ![Dyson DC58 Boat + Car Vacuum](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-with-all-accessories.jpg) A few months ago I came across an ad somewhere for a new Dyson product called the [Dyson V6 Car Boat Handheld Vacuum](https://www.amazon.com/Dyson-Car-Boat-Handheld-Vacuum/dp/B01DIQC3HU?ref=seabits.com) and was intrigued. The v6 car+boat is based on the other v6 products in their line including the Absolute, Animal, and others. I had looked at these in the past, but they had lots of accessories I didn’t need, and a big charging dock I didn’t want on the sailboat. This version seemed to be better suited for a boat. I own Dyson products at home – vacuums at two locations, and fans in the bedroom. They have been 100% reliable, and always operate higher/better than other brands. Are they worth the premium price that Dyson charges? I think so after beating the crap out of a couple of them that are still running, while competitors products had failed in much shorter time frames. Their suction power is also far better than I’ve found elsewhere. ![Charger](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-charger.jpg) The v6 car+boat has a simple wall-wart charger with a decent length cable. Perfect for the sailboat – charge up when needed, and then tucked away when done. This was one of the things I found irritating with Dyson’s website and reviews online – finding out everything that was included with the product, and how big it all was. I ended up having to download the users manual and stumble through it figuring it all out. ![Accessories](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-accessories.jpg) The included accessories are somewhat car-focused, but work out OK on the boat as well. From left to right are a universal brush that slides back and forth to reduce the brush length, crevice tool, charger, flexible extension hose, electronics brush, and standard brush tool. The electronics brush has been useful to keep all of the gadgets clean on Grace while doing messy projects nearby (wood cutting, etc.). ![Power head](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-powered-head.jpg) The other accessory is the power head, which has a spinning brush that gets power from the vacuum through a series of connections. The flexible hose attachment doesn’t provide that ability, so you have to use it directly connected, or via an approved extension with the correct hardware/connections. Beware this accessory on nice sole wood floors – the edges of the tool will scratch the floor. I use it primarily on carpets and rugs, and it does an amazing job of getting deep into the pile. ![Side view](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-vacuum-only.jpg) The vacuum itself is very powerful, far more than any one I’ve had on the boat. I swear it sucked stuff up out of the rugs that has been down there for years! It is not as mind-numbingly loud as traditional vacuums on normal mode, and is very well designed ergonomically – balances well in the hand and doesn’t cause too much strain. ![Battery plate](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-bottom-plate-on-battery.jpg) The battery lasts about 20-30 minutes depending on how much junk I’m sucking up, how frequently I stop and start, and if I’m using the Max feature (see below). I also like that it is a trigger based device – I can quickly suck something up, and then move to another space while letting things spin down so I’m not just running it constantly. It does take 2-3 hours to charge back up, and requires AC power via the wall wart. There’s a good indicator light that shows when things are done. ![The max button can be scary](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-max-button.jpg) If you have a really dirty area or need more power, you can cut your battery life in half and press the MAX button on the back of the unit. Immediately the unit stops, then restarts in MAX mode, which means double the volume, and a scary amount of suction. I can’t stand running it at this level for long without getting a headache, but it is useful if you need some extra power. ![Release button](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-release-catch.jpg) One of the irritating things with the v6 car+boat is the way you empty it. The red slider you see in the picture above is too close to the trigger, and several times I’ve accidentally hit it while using the vacuum, and dumped the entire canister of sucked up junk back on the floor. The seal around the bottom is also somewhat problematic – you have to make sure it is clean and clear of any debris, or it won’t close up completely, and will open again at an inopportune time. ![After market extension](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-after-market-extension.jpg) The other weird thing is that the v6 car+boat does not come with an extension pole. This means you have to bend over to clean, use the bendy hose (not practical) or find an extension. I bought an [aftermarket, non-Dyson extension](http://amzn.to/2gvSgpd?ref=seabits.com) which works OK, but does not accommodate the power head as it does not have the necessary wiring/connections inside. At the time I could not find out how to get a Dyson-authorized extension pole through Amazon – you had to order it from Dyson direct, and I didn’t want to deal with the hassle. ![Dyson DC58 Boat + Car Vacuum](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/12/Dyson-Boat-Vacuum-DC58-with-all-accessories.jpg) Dyson DC58 Boat + Car Vacuum Overall, I’d say this is the best vacuum I’ve ever owned on a boat. I’ve even used it in the car and love it there too. Powerful, easy to use, lasts a long time on one battery, and has a ton of options to make sure you get things clean. The cons include the emptying bin, lack of included extension, and that it is a traditional vacuum – you can start sucking up water or other nasty things like a shop vac. Even with those small challenges, the crew seems to love it, as all of our OCD tendencies can be met much faster, and the boat kept clean! ### Amazon Echo Dot is perfect for the sailboat URL: https://seabits.com/amazon-echo-dot-perfect-sailboat/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:35:07.000Z I’ve had an Amazon Echo at home for some time and love it. It is used mostly for controlling our Philips Hue lighting (15 different zones/lights) and our Sonos sound system, plus a bunch of scenarios and other home automation niceties. I’ve been wanting an Echo Dot for Grace but missed out on the original release. I was able to snag one recently, and have it doing a few things on the boat, with some cool plans for the future. ![Echo Dot box](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/11/Echo-Dot-Box.jpg) I know several people who have the full sized Echo on their boat, but it requires AC power which is something I wanted to avoid while away from the dock. Plus it is much bigger and has larger speakers which I didn’t need. ![The USB port](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/11/Echo-Dot-USB-port.jpg) The Echo Dot runs off of USB, is super tiny, and pairs with Bluetooth speakers easily. The size is nice, but USB power is the real reason I wanted the Dot. I have [BlueSea USB outlets](https://www.bluesea.com/products/1016/Dual%5FUSB%5FCharger%5FSocket?ref=seabits.com) in several places around the boat that are always on. This will allow for easy mounting and continuous power whether we’re at the dock or underway. I’m also considering using a [DC-DC buck converter](http://amzn.to/2dZpxJw?ref=seabits.com) which can take a range of input voltages, and output a constant 5V for USB connectivity/power and wiring it in permanently. ![Echo answering my query on Grace](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/11/Echo-Dot-on-Grace.jpg) Echo answering my query on Grace The Dot easily connected to my Fusion stereo, and because I had a full size Echo already, my Spotify, Pandora and other music accounts were already setup and ready to use. Instead of having someone’s cell phone paired with the stereo, now we can all yell our favorite music requests at Alexa and hear them throughout the boat. When the stereo is off, the Dot’s built in speaker is good enough even while the engine is on, but only down below. This solves the dual problem of a cell phone battery draining quickly while playing music, and also having it inevitably out at the cockpit to control the music. We have a charging port in the cockpit, but Bluetooth seems to be flaky depending on the various electronics that are on. The other issue is having your cell phone in the cockpit to begin with from a safety and waterproofing perspective. Phase 2 is to use [IFTTT ](https://ifttt.com/?ref=seabits.com)and glue on my on-board Linux and Windows systems to do a few more interesting things: **Alarms from NMEA 2000 bus**– using the data from SignalK / iKommunicate and potentially canbus, writing some code to set alarms and thresholds. When one is tripped, have something sent to IFTTT so that the Dot alerts us to a problem audibly. An example could be a low battery voltage, which the Dot could say “Low battery voltage on house bank, please review”. **Control of lighting** – I’d like to control my [ambient LED cabin lights](https://seabits.com/ambient-led-cabin-lights/) via the Dot. There’s a wifi-based gateway that can be paired with the RF receivers and should allow me to write some glue on my on-board Linux machine to control them. **Anchor Watch** – this could be driven by some of the same work as the alarms above, but I want it to be as robust as possible. Potentially looking at spitting GPS data onto the WiFi network that the Echo could consume and monitor, along with a geofence or other limiting factor. I’m sure there are a ton of other things to be done that would enable alerts or control via voice. I’m looking forward to experimenting more with the Dot on the boat. ### Charging away from the dock URL: https://seabits.com/charging-away-dock/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:36:51.000Z One of the biggest challenges with my old DC power system was apparent when away from the dock. Grace has a Yanmar engine with a factory alternator, which on a good day output 30 amps into the battery bank. Not only was this not enough for the new bank, but the regulator was not programmable and would damage my new Firefly batteries. After a bunch of research, I chose Balmar as a complete system. > This is the third in a series of posts on my [power system upgrade](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/) which will cover design, install, and specific implementation challenges. The new system was composed of: - [Balmar 6 series light duty 100 amp alternator](http://www.balmar.net/?product=alternator-60-100-sv&ref=seabits.com) - [Balmar 614 regulator with harness](http://www.balmar.net/?product=regulator-mc-614-h&ref=seabits.com) - [Balmar alternator temp sensor](http://www.balmar.net/?product=temp-sensor-mc-ts-a&ref=seabits.com) - [Balmar battery temp sensor](http://www.balmar.net/?product=temp-sensor-mc-ts-a-2&ref=seabits.com) ![Old alternator on engine](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/Old-alternator-and-engine.jpg) Old alternator on engine One of the constraints in replacing the alternator was the belt setup and draw it would put on the engine. I wanted to keep a single belt solution due to simplicity. That limited my choices to a max of a 100 amp alternator. There were other options including replacing pulleys and adding more belts which could have produced more amperage, but I was concerned about the complexity this would add, along with the load on the engine. ![Old alternator](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/Old-alternator-being-removed.jpg) Old alternator The old alternator was pretty easy to get off. It had been repainted at some point, making many of the labels unreadable. ![Old alternator connections](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/Old-alternator-closeup.jpg) I took a lot of photographs of the wiring for reference and ensured all of my battery bank and DC supply was completely isolated while removing. The existing positive wire can be seen uncovered in the middle of the picture. It seems undersized to me – I wonder if that is why I never saw more than 25-30 amps of current from the alternator. ![Old and new alternators](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/Old-and-new-alternators.jpg) Old and new alternators The original alternator was a saddle mount, or dual foot setup. It was easy to use Balmar’s web page configurator to figure out what model of alternator I needed to purchase, but I would recommend confirming by examining your existing one. ![New alternator](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/New-alternator-front.jpg) The mounting on the new one looked like it would fit perfectly. ![New alternator back](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/New-alternator-back.jpg) I read and re-read the wiring instructions before reconnecting everything. Many of the concepts behind an alternator and the way things are wired are a bit different than your average battery setup. It is important that you wire things exactly as required. If you don’t feel comfortable, consult an elecrtician – getting any part of this wrong could fry your alternator or damage your batteries, or worse. One of the biggest changes to this setup I covered in the [arteries and veins of your electrical system](https://seabits.com/wires-veins-arteries/). This included replacing all of the wiring going to and from the alternator with new and much larger wire. This was critical to ensure that the power generated by the alternator makes it to the battery bank as efficiently and safely as possible. ![Mounting bracket](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/New-alternator-mounting-point.jpg) Here is the dual foot mounting necessary for my engine. One thing that was very helpful was Balmar’s extremely detailed installation instructions for both the alternator and regulator. Lots of pictures, lots of good diagrams, and a step by step for most scenarios that has clear explanations of why you’re doing something. I wish other manufacturers spent the time to produce such quality install and troubleshooting documentation, and include a printed copy with something like this – I know I referred to them at least a bazillion times while double and triple checking my wiring. ![New alternator installed](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/Alternator-installed-with-new-cabling.jpg) Installing the new alternator was very easy compared to most boat-related projects. I did have to acquire a new, longer bolt from my local supply store as the new foot was a bit thicker on the rear of the unit. Once installed, I tensioned the belt per the manufacturers instructions, reconnected all the wiring, and was ready to install the regulator. ![Regulator installed](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/Regulator-with-new-cabling.jpg) The regulator was a bit more complicated to install, mainly because of the amount of connections. Besides the standard connections, I also added battery and alternator temperature sensors. I felt this was necessary to make the system as safe and thorough as possible. The battery temp sensor ensures that the system isn’t overcharging the batteries or charging them too fast, and the alternator temp sensor ensures the alternator isn’t working too hard. Given how hot the engine room can get, both of these will help in preventing damage. When it came to programming the regulator, I chose to create a custom profile that matches the Firefly batteries requirements. I also setup a delayed startup time of 60 seconds for the alternator – allowing the engine to start and warm up a bit before the alternator starts charging heavily. I may increase this to prevent such a big load from occurring so quickly after starting. I forgot to document all of the bits and pieces to the exact program but will do so in a future post. ![Amps flowing in from the alternator](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/10/MasterVolt-290_DxO.jpg) Current flowing into the battery bank as measured by the MasterVolt shunt I did a lot of testing to ensure there were no wiring issues or problems – metering out various spots and ensuring the connections behaved the exact way the instructions indicated. Then I tested charging with the battery bank at mostly full capacity and was happy with the measured voltages at the right places. After discharging the battery bank for a few hours, a load test showed over 90 amps of continuous power being generated by the alternator into the bank. Note that in the pic above, the shunt was configured backwards, showing a negative value. In addition, there was about 6 amps of load on the system. In continued testing and usage for the last few months, I’ve seen consistent charging voltages and really good amperage amounts that make a huge difference in topping off the battery bank while away from the dock. I’ve noticed a moderate amount of dusting from the belt, and believe this is because of tensioning, but will continue to monitor. Some might consider this part of the power project to be optional, at least the alternator. For sure you will need a better regulator if you choose to use Firefly batteries, or you will damage them / reduce their life. I consider the alternator just as important so that I can charge the bank back up as fast as possible while away from the dock, and ultimately spend more time out on the water! ### The arteries and veins of your electrical system URL: https://seabits.com/wires-veins-arteries/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:37:53.000Z If you’ve done any wiring on your boat, you know how much wire size is emphasized in manufacturer specifications, and there is a very good reason for it. If the batteries are the heart of the system, the wires are the arteries and veins. Having a perfect heart won’t matter if your delivery system is compromised – you need adequate sized wire to carry the necessary current. Part of my power system redesign was to replace almost all of the core critical wiring in Grace as I had found the existing wire had damage, and was too small for my expected loads. > This is the second in a series of posts on my [power system upgrade](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/) which will cover design, install, and specific implementation challenges. # Measurement My first step, after the [design was completed](https://seabits.com/power-system-design/), was to rip things apart and start examining and measuring wires and locations. This took several days of concerted effort, and opening spaces I had never been in. ![Spreadsheet I used to track lengths and details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Screen-Shot-2016-09-23-at-1.44.49-PM.png) I chose to track each wire in a spreadsheet so I wouldn’t mess anything up. I recorded the purpose, type, end sizes, wire size, and other notes. Besides just replacing existing wires, I was also changing the way the system worked at a base level – having no start battery, having three batteries instead of 2, adding an inverter, etc. – so this wasn’t just as simple as making a list of existing wires. In many cases I had to lay out paths for new wires and devices that I did not have in hand yet. In that case, I used a trick from my friend [Steve Roberts](http://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) and mocked up various things in cardboard so I could get an idea of wire routes and distances. # Pay for it! I’ve made my share of wires for both [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) and [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) over the years – I have all of the necessary tools including appropriate large cable strippers, big hydraulic crimpers, ends and the like. However, I have also had my share of failed crimps and problems, and I am the worlds worst soldering engineer, so if it requires tinning things, you might as well light it on fire and throw it in the garbage. ![GenuineDealz website](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/genuninedealz-interface.png) For this project, I chose to use a 3rd party to make all of my wires, and chose [GenuineDealz.com](https://www.genuinedealz.com/?ref=seabits.com), another recommendation by [Steve Roberts](http://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com). Their site name is a bit weird, but their site is clear and fast, and you can build your wire step-by-step with a number of choices and options. I chose heavy wall tinned copper lugs and shrink wrap for both ends. I felt that the thicker walled lugs would last longer and be more robust. I oversized my cables everywhere I could, and of course used marine grade wire. ![Box of wires](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Box-of-wires.jpg) The end result was a box of 20 wires weighing about 70 pounds! # Prep Work ![Staging wires in cockpit](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Staging-wires-in-cockpit.jpg) Now that I have the wires, it’s time to figure out where they all go, and how to get them there. The first step was to lay them out in the sun so they became a bit more pliable – several of these suckers were AWG 2/0 and quite a bear to work with. I was very pleased with the quality of the wire and ends – everything looked far more professional than I could ever hope to do myself. Super thick ends, tight shrink wrap, and very heavy feeling hide and wire. ![Labeling wires](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Labeling-wires.jpg) I love labels. I have always had an affinity for making sure everything is clearly identified, and wires on the sailboat are no exception. I use a [Brady BMP21 label maker](http://amzn.to/2cPE4Fk?ref=seabits.com)and [3/4″ black on white nylon cloth tape](http://amzn.to/2dej8Zf?ref=seabits.com). The nylon cloth tape is absolutely amazing, and lasts a long time in the marine environment. It sticks very well, and is not as shiny as the traditional tape. I label both ends of each wire, and at various intervals along the way depending on the length and route. # Install ![Water heater](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Water-heater.jpg) Install took about 6 hours, and was a hot, dirty, and unforgiving. The biggest challenge was getting things from the battery/charger area down around the water heater, through the back of the engine space, and to the battery switches, alternator, and DC distribution fuses. I think I walked between this area, down the companionway, and around the corner to the battery switches about a 1000 times. I would definitely recommend having help when redoing longer runs of large cables. The spaces to transition through some of these areas were no bigger than the wire itself, and required careful routing and movement of wires not to damage or compromise them. I found a bit of dish soap on the wires and a lot of patience helped move things along. ![Work space](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Lazarette.jpg) My primary work space for this project was inside the big lazarette in the cockpit and forward. A whole structure was built that contained batteries, charger, and other bits and pieces when the boat was built. Not the best place in the world, but there are few other areas (none that I could find) in the Beneteau 311 design that would allow even a single battery. ![Battery switches and new wiring](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Battery-switches.jpg) The new wires fit very well and there were no mistakes (yay!) in terms of ends or lengths. The double walled ends are far better than the original wiring and feel like they will offer more quality contact. Everywhere there was a connector I used dielectric grease to ensure a good quality connection and prevent corrosion. ![Negative bus](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Negative-bus.jpg) In addition to new wiring, I installed new positive and negative busses. I chose the [Marinco 5 stud busbar](http://www.marinco.com/en/777-bb5s-650?ref=seabits.com) over other manufacturers because of their compact size. They fit perfectly in my limited space and give me a high quality way of aggregating the big wires all cleanly. ![Positive and negative bus](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Positive-bus.jpg) There’s still a lot of clean up work left to do on wire routing and tidying, but everything fits the way it should and works perfectly. Load and crazy situation testing went perfectly – I’m very thorough with proving out my designs and trying corner cases at the dock, not on the water where there is more risk. This included tests such as draining the batteries down to a very low level and attempting to start the engine, dropping one or two batteries out of the bank and using only a single battery to do various high amperage loads, and testing each and every cable path as much as possible. ![Wires everywhere](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Wires-everywhere.jpg) Wires are so very important to the health of the entire power system, and I’m very glad I took this opportunity to design that into my project. The original wire was still in good condition in most places, but was definitely undersized for what I needed. Several key cables had issues with their ends at spots like the battery switch, which was definitely causing a lot of loss. ### Power System Design URL: https://seabits.com/power-system-design/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:39:00.000Z Grace came with a very basic power system which had some major problems. Having completely redone the power system on Jammy, and wanting to have all the comforts of home, it was important to make sure the new system was well thought out and reliable. I chose to use MasterVolt as the primary charging, distribution and control system, Balmar for engine power management, and Firefly carbon foam batteries as the heart. > This is the first in a series of posts on my [power system upgrade](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/) which will cover design, install, and specific implementation challenges. Grace’s existing system consisted of a very basic battery charger that I knew would not keep up with my needs. The worst part was the two non marine-class starting batteries that powered everything – a total of about 140 amp hours if they were brand new, which they weren’t. They were starting-class batteries as well, which are not necessarily the greatest choice for a house battery load. The default factory battery switches allowed you to have one battery on, or both batteries in parallel for starting or other operations. I chose to modify this as well, as I did not intend on having a standalone starting battery given the weight and space it would use. After a lot of investigation, I chose to use MasterVolt as the core of the system responsible for charging, inverting, monitoring and distribution. On Jammy I used MasterVolt only for charging, and did most of my monitoring via Maretron NMEA 2000 devices ([seen in the network diagram here](https://seabits.com/jammy/)) which were expensive, required somewhat complex installs, and were mostly independent. MasterVolt provides methods of doing this with a more integrated system using a network called MasterBus. ![Overview diagram of Grace's MasterVolt power system](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Grace-MasterVolt-power-system.png) Overview diagram of Grace’s MasterVolt power system The system consists of the following MasterVolt components - [Mass Combi 12/2500-100 Inverter / Charger](http://www.mastervolt.com/products/mass-combi-12v/mass-combi-12-2500-100-120-v/?ref=seabits.com) - [MasterBus Combi Interface](http://www.mastervolt.com/products/masterbus-interfaces/masterbus-combi-interface/?ref=seabits.com) – required for above to be on MasterBus network - [DC Distribution 500](http://www.mastervolt.com/products/dc-distribution-500/dc-distribution-500-4industrial-fuses/?ref=seabits.com) - [MasterShunt 500](http://www.mastervolt.com/products/mastershunt/mastershunt-500-battery-monitor-with-system-fuse/?ref=seabits.com) - [MasterBus NMEA 2000 Interface](http://www.mastervolt.com/products/masterbus-interfaces/masterbus-nmea2000-interface/?ref=seabits.com) - [MasterBus USB Interface](http://www.mastervolt.com/products/masterbus-interfaces/masterbus-usb-interface/?ref=seabits.com) - [MasterView Easy Display](http://www.mastervolt.com/products/masterview-masterbus/masterview-easy/?ref=seabits.com) The design of this system took me multiple months, and required ordering additional parts after initial install once I found limitations. I chose to do the design and install myself, when many would opt to pay a specialist. I had considered this, but knowing the markup that both the labor and parts get, I decided to use my pretty extensive electrical knowledge and do it myself to save money, and also to know it inside and out in case anything ever happened. I’m sure I didn’t do everything as perfectly as an ABYC certified installer, but I learned a lot about the system, and I feel it is far safer than the previous install. In addition to MasterVolt products, I also installed: - [Balmar 6-series 100 amp alternator](http://www.balmar.net/?page%5Fid=15235&ref=seabits.com) - [Balmar Max Charge MC-614 voltage regulator](http://www.balmar.net/?page%5Fid=15559&ref=seabits.com) - [Balmar SmartGauge battery monitor](http://www.balmar.net/?page%5Fid=15245&ref=seabits.com) - [Firefly G31 carbon foam AGM batteries (3x)](http://www.bruceschwab.com/advanced-energy-storage-systems/firefly-energys-oasis-group-31/?ref=seabits.com) This gave me a completely redesigned AC and DC system with 300 amp hours of capacity, better quality charging both on shore power and while motoring, and complete visibility into the entire system at any point, even remotely via SignalK and [iKommunicate](https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/). # Batteries ![Firefly G31 battery](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Firefly-G31-battery.jpg) I chose Firefly Oasis Group 31 carbon foam AGM batteries, purchased locally here in Seattle from [BRJ Solutions](http://www.brjsolutions.com/-%5Ffirefly%5Fbatteries?ref=seabits.com). There is some good information about these batteries on [Bruce Schwab Energy Systems](http://www.bruceschwab.com/advanced-energy-storage-systems/firefly-energys-oasis-group-31/?ref=seabits.com) page, as well as [this post](http://www.panbo.com/archives/2016/03/gizmos%5Fhouse%5Fbattery%5Freplacement%5Fconsulting%5Fwith%5Fcole%5Fcollins%5Fcalder%5Fschwab%5Fyou.html?ref=seabits.com), and [this second follow up post](http://www.panbo.com/archives/2016/05/gizmos%5Fnew%5Ffirefly%5Fbattery%5Fbank%5Fworking%5Fout%5Fthe%5Fdetails.html?ref=seabits.com) on Panbo about Ben redoing his house battery bank. The biggest reason for choosing these batteries is their ability to be discharged so deeply without damaging effects. A traditional battery bank would only allow you to discharge them by 50%, while the Firefly can be discharged from 80-100%, and thrive on partial-state-of-charge (PSOC) environments like boats. This means that a 300 amp hour battery bank can actually use most of the 300 amp hours – not 150 in a traditional bank. The biggest drawback is the careful charging regimen these batteries require. If you decide to invest in these batteries, check carefully whether your existing charger can meet the very stringent requirements, or look into a very programmable one that you can control. I also chose to eliminate a dedicated starting battery, which was the original wiring setup. Having lots of good monitoring should prevent me from completely depleting the battery bank and still start the motor. If all else fails, I have a fully charged [NOCO Genius Boost Sport GB20 400 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter](http://amzn.to/2dcAaFb?ref=seabits.com) always available to get things running again. # Mass Combi Inverter/Charger ![Mass Combi exploded view, courtesy MasterVolt](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Combiexploded.jpg) Mass Combi exploded view, courtesy MasterVolt If the batteries are the heart of the system, the MasterVolt Mass Combi Inverter/Charger is the brain. I choose the Mass Combi 12/2500-100\. Those numbers indicate a 12v DC system, 2500 watts of inverter power, and 100 amps of battery charging capacity. That’s quite a bit to fit into a compact package only 19.5″ tall, 12.5″ wide, and 6″ deep – perfect for a sailboat of Grace’s size. I could write a whole set of posts on the capabilities of the inverter itself – it is fantastically configurable, and has a ton of useful features. Here are a few that helped me make my decision. **Configurability** – everything from the charging parameters to the way the inverter handles differing situations can be controlled by dip switches or software. The level of control over the charging parameters is one of the main reasons I chose this product. **Charger** – the charger in the Mass Combi is extremely powerful, capable of charging two banks simultaneously if needed. It can deliver 100 amps of charging, which with the Firefly batteries is great to get things back up quickly when on shore power. And as I mentioned above, it is extremely configurable to match the Firefly requirements. **Pure Sine Wave** – I am running a TV and charging computers and other sensitive devices, and insist on a pure sine wave inverter. Anything else is a risk to that equipment both in terms of quality and consistency. **Dual AC outputs** – the main AC power flows directly to the inverter, then splits out to two outbound connections. One is for inverted loads which can be on/off depending on the state of the inverter, and used regardless of shore power. This connection has an overall amperage limit to prevent overloading the inverter. The secondary connection is for higher amperage loads that are not inverted, and only energized while connected to shore power. The whole setup switches automatically and can be configured in a number of ways. **Power Sharing** – this is a slick feature because of the way the AC wiring is setup. You can set an overall breaker size on the shore power connection, and the inverter will manage the amount of power flowing to the AC sources and the battery charger so that you don’t trip the shore power circuit. This was helpful this summer while running the vacuum and air conditioner – nothing tripped and the battery charger amperage varied to ensure that the shore power connection was stable. It can even be configured to pull power from the batteries if you have a situation where more power than what is provided via shore power is needed. ![MasterVolt Mass Combi inverter](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/MasterVolt-Mass-Combi-inverter.jpg) MasterVolt Mass Combi inverter MasterVolt has done a wonderful job of providing all of the configurability and tools to take advantage of their product, although I really wish they’d include a MasterBus connection natively on the device like all of their other products. Instead, you have to buy an interface that connects it via a serial link. There are a ton of other features which I haven’t mentioned including energy saving modes, parallel configurations and more. I’ll go into more detail on my specific install in later posts. Overall this is one of the most configurable pieces of power gear I’ve come across, not only in the marine world, but in my day job with computer data centers. # Shunt ![MasterVolt Shunt](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/MasterVolt-Shunt.jpg) The shunt was critical in my design to allow for accurate power monitoring and management. MasterVolt’s design allows it to clip into the DC distribution modularly and easily. It connects to the MasterBus network, and shares accurate information about amperage flowing in/out of the batteries, calculates amp hours used, capacity, and monitors the batteries temperature via a sensor. # Distribution ![MasterVolt Distribution](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/MasterVolt-Distribution.jpg) MasterVolt’s DC distribution allows you to have 4 DC sources connected and fused, along with alarms via the MasterBus network when one blows. In my case, I have the inverter/charger, Balmar alternator, Internet alcove, and Wallas heater connected to the four points. The inverter/charger can either draw power when inverting, or provide power back when charging. The alternator provides power into the battery bank when the engine is running. The internet and heater require connections that are not interrupted by a house bank being shut off. Alarms for any blown fuses show up on the MasterView display and on the NMEA 2000 network. # MasterView display ![MasterView display](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/MasterView-display.jpg) A key part of my design is visibility and control. The MasterView display provides a quick way to see what is going on with the system, and deeper dives into each of the components to ensure a healthy system. Additionally, it allows for configuration of many important items very easily, such as turning the inverter on/off, changing the shore power breaker size, etc. # NMEA, USB and Mass Combi Interfaces ![MasterBus MassCombi Interface](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/MasterBus-MassCombi-Interface.jpg) Along the lines of the above, having all of the critical data on the network is important for monitoring from other places around the boat, and remotely. The MasterBus to NMEA 2000 interface provides this and allows for data to flow back and forth between the two networks. It allows you to configure particular MasterBus data bits to be sent out to the NMEA 2000 network so that devices like my Raymarine MFD and Maretron DSM150 can show critical bits of data wherever I am. The MasterBus to USB interface allows me to configure and monitor the entire MasterBus network and devices from a Windows PC. This was one of the pieces I added later after struggling to setup and configure MasterVolt devices via dip switches or the MasterView panel. The Mass Combi Interface is required if you want the inverter on the MasterBus network and to be monitored and configured remotely. # MasterVolt Configuration ![MasterView installer view](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/MasterView-Installer-View.png) I will delve into this more during the installation posts, but while MasterVolt is very configurable, it is extremely difficult for an average user to do themselves. There is very limited documentation on how to configure the deeper parameters, and many are confusing and require the trial and error. To make matters worse, while most things are configurable via the MasterView panel or dip switches, many key things are not, and require the MasterVolt to USB interface and a PC. In addition, many of these parameters aren’t configurable by an end user without an “installer” password for the MasterVolt PC software. I love that I can configure just about everything, but boy was it a lot of work to get it working just right! # Balmar Alternator & Regulator ![Balmar alternator and regulator](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Balmar-alternator-and-regulator.jpg) Keeping the batteries charged while out on the water was part of the design as well, and no one has as good of a reputation as Balmar for their alternator and regulator combinations. The factory alternator had a very simplistic regulator, and I didn’t want to risk it damaging my new batteries. It also was rated at 50 amps of output, but I had never measured more than 30 amps out of it no matter what I did, which would take a long time to charge my new bank. The new alternator is the largest I could put on my engine without changing wheels and belts and subjecting it to too much work, while providing 100 amps of charging capacity in a perfect world. The MC-614 regulator allows for very granular control over the alternator output to match the Firefly battery requirements. I go into more details in [Charging away from the dock](https://seabits.com/charging-away-dock/). # Balmar SmartGauge ![Balmar Smartgauge](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Balmar-Smartgauge.jpg) While I love the visibility that the MasterView and MasterBus data gives me, its all from one vendor and could potentially have errors or report false information if configured wrong. The Balmar SmartGauge is one of the best real-world battery capacity monitoring devices out there – [RC has a fantastic write up and testing on his site](http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/smart%5Fgauge?ref=seabits.com). I wanted to have this in place as a backup way to monitor voltage and capacity, and it has proven to be very useful in diagnosing several configuration errors with MasterVolt. # Design Conclusions I wanted a very integrated and configurable system, while also being extremely reliable. So far I have gotten both of them with this MasterVolt-Firefly-Balmar combination. I’ve had a lot of trial and error in the implementation phase, which I will be writing about next in the hopes of helping others considering these technologies. > You can read more about the installation and implementation at [Power System Upgrade](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/). ### Solar simplification URL: https://seabits.com/solar-simplification/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:40:46.000Z My ongoing [solar](https://seabits.com/tag/solar/) project at our family cabin in Eastern Washington took a simplification turn this last weekend. Much of what I’ve learned rewiring boats and working on DC systems has helped me fine-tune this installation, and it will be helpful when working on and installing solar systems on my sailboat. In October 2015, I had tried to adjust my system to be more reliable and add some functionality. Since then, I’ve made some major changes and compromises. ![Antenna and AP](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/IMG_0758.jpg) WiFi Antenna and Access Point as of October 2015 The first big change, which happened a few months ago, is that the WiFi antenna and access point were removed from the installation altogether and moved to an outbuilding much closer to the house where there was normal AC power. The power demands from the AP paired with the high power antenna were too much for the solar panel and 110 amp hours of battery capacity. The long term plan requires this be moved back at some point, as the wifi coverage down to the river is only possible with the antenna sited somewhere near this spot. I believe the only solution is to invest in a larger battery bank and place it in a ground-mounted storage container. I hope to look at this in early spring 2017 since the winter and fall months are not fun to do ground things here. I also shut off the RMS-100 linux machine that was responsible for turning on and off loads and monitoring current usage and other things via SNMP. It had never been 100% reliable at doing things in the automated fashion it was billed to do, and it took up a decent amount of power just being on. This left the battery bank, associated cabling, DC to DC converter, and the Dropcam. For the last few months this has been running perfectly with no outages or issues. The Dropcam was set to stop transmitting video at sunset and to resume at sunrise, thereby reducing the overall power usage as much as possible. ![My work bench at the solar panel location](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/IMG_0033.jpg) My work bench at the solar panel location While things were working well, I still wanted some sort of monitoring on the battery voltage, solar effectiveness, and more. Since I have been throwing Raspberry Pi’s everywhere for random different tasks, why not here? ![Raspberry Pi and associated bits in the box](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/IMG_0034.jpg) Raspberry Pi and associated bits in the box The design was dead simple. The MorningStar MPPT solar charge controller has an ethernet port and IP address that I had been using prior to this with the WiFi AP to gather stats. I was going to use the Raspberry Pi to bridge the two together. The Pi would have a WiFi card and connection to my existing network, and then use its ethernet port to connect to the MorningStar. Using IP forwarding, I could have the Pi route the traffic destined for the MorningStar directly to it, acting as router for a single host. Adding a static route at my main router ensured that I could directly access the MorningStar from any machine on my network. The parts list is pretty short: - [Raspberry Pi 3 Model B](http://amzn.to/2cJegcD?ref=seabits.com) – I prefer the CanaKit bundles for the extras they come with - [Alfa high gain USB wifi adapter](http://amzn.to/2cpYHdb?ref=seabits.com) – good for long range stuff. Used before on the boat. - [Alfa 9dBi magnetic antenna](http://amzn.to/2bZO3tc?ref=seabits.com) – to connect to the above - [DC-DC buck converter](http://amzn.to/2cJeEYx?ref=seabits.com) – to convert 12V DC battery power to 5V for the Pi ![Alfa long range USB wifi adapter](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Alfa-long-range-wifi-adapter.jpg) Alfa long range USB wifi adapter I’ve used the Alfa network adapters in the past on the sailboat while boosting remote WiFi signals to a computer or two. They also used to be part of The Wirie product that I owned on Jammy years ago, and have always impressed me with their power. I paired this one with a magnetic 9dBi antenna that I planned on sticking onto the big fancy metal box everything was installed inside of. I chose to do this instead of using the built in wifi both for reliability and signal strength issues. The box the Pi is inside is quite thick steel, and I doubt the built in chip could reach the AP over 300 feet away. I’ve also had a ton of issues with the Pi 3’s and their wifi chips, some of which have been resolved in recent firmware updates, but not all. ![Alfa 9dBi antenna](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Alfa-9dBi-antenna.jpg) Alfa 9dBi antenna The antenna lead was a perfect length, and the magnet feels like it will keep the antenna in place through most weather. The signal strength measured at both the Pi and the AP looks good, and connectivity seems reliable for the last week of use. ![Raspberry Pi connections](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Raspberry-Pi-connected-to-MPPT.jpg) The Pi has only a few connections – power, ethernet to the MorningStar solar controller, and USB to the Alfa WiFi adapter. The nice thing about the Alfa is that it didn’t require any special drivers, and worked right out of the box. ![DC to DC buck converter](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/DC-to-DC-buck-converter.jpg) DC to DC buck converter The Pi gets its power from a DC to DC buck converter, which I’ve used in a number of applications. This one can take anywhere from 8-50V and spit out a constant 5V USB-quality level voltage on the other end. This particular model has two USB ports, which I thought might be handy for plugging in something else in the future. It also has a max of 3 amps, which is more than enough for the Pi. I’m not sure how efficient these are, or if there is a better way to do this from 12V to 5V, but many people seem to use them, so here I am. ![MorningStar TriStar MPPT solar controller](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/MPPT-controller.jpg) MorningStar TriStar MPPT solar charge controller The real brains of this whole operation is the MorningStar TriStar MPPT Solar Charge Controller, which I’ve written about before. They come highly rated, and I have nothing but good things to say about them. I have the 60 amp model with the front LCD panel, which is not included in the base model. The base model does come with an Ethernet port, but is very hard to configure without the LCD panel. ![MorningStar TriStar data log](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Screen-Shot-2016-09-13-at-12.19.38-AM.png) MorningStar TriStar data log The MorningStar has a simple web interface that shows you current status as well as a data log, allowing you to see the performance over time. Note that on day 10 above was my install, and the whole array was down for a large portion of the day, hence the low numbers. ![Modbus query to MPPT controller](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Screen-Shot-2016-09-13-at-12.25.26-AM.png) Modbus query to MPPT controller In addition to the web interface, there is a modbus interface exposed on the controller, and I found [someone who had parsed the values and written a simple C program to display them](http://jeperez.com/?ref=seabits.com). Unfortunately it looks like the original link has moved, and there is new code/examples but in Spanish. I wrote a set of scripts to stuff this information into an RRD after querying it via Modbus. ![Solar RRD voltage](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/voltage-1-1.png) ![Solar RRD current](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/current-1-1.png) ![Solar RRD watts](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/watts-1-1.png) ![Solar RRD temps](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/temps-1-1.png) The result is a set of graphs that allow me to see real-time performance of the array during the day. And because I’m using an RRD, I can generate graphs over a much longer time for averaging and more. Note that I have the querying stop at sunset, and resume at sunrise to save on power/queries. ![Current installation](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/IMG_0055.jpg) The overall install is much simpler than before, and seems to be holding up well after a week of data gathering. I’m using a BlueSea blade fuse panel for the DC loads, and a battery mounted blade fuse setup in the foreground – all marine-grade. These were left over from my home NMEA 2000 network that I don’t use anymore, and I decided they were more than good enough for a solar install. The next enhancement I want to make to this setup is a current and voltage monitor for the Pi. I’ve found a few solutions out there that are standalone boards that can do a multitude of things. My goals are to be able to leverage the shunt (in the pictures near the top of this article) to monitor the amperage being used, as well as monitor the actual voltage at the batteries and solar panel. So far, this simplified setup has worked great, and allowed me to get good data on the performance of the system without using much power. Only time will tell if this is the final configuration, although I suspect I will always be tweaking this one! ![A nearby sunflower](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/09/Sunflower.jpg) ### Terminal fuse blocks saved my batteries URL: https://seabits.com/terminal-fuse-block-saved-my-batteries/ Last updated: 2025-02-24T18:53:03.000Z After installing the final piece to my [MasterVolt DC and AC power project](https://seabits.com/tag/power-system-upgrade/) I began having issues with battery capacity and engine starting. After a lot of investigation, and the decision to re-cable most of the original (old) and hand made (me) cables, I found the real reason that things were awry. I had added a [BlueSea Terminal Fuse Block](https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF%5FTerminal%5FFuse%5FBlock%5F-%5F30%5Fto%5F300A?ref=seabits.com) to every battery when I installed my new Firefly batteries a few months ago. I had [used these on my previous boat Jammy](https://seabits.com/bluesea-terminal-fuse-block-a-great-innovation), and loved how compact and useful they were, while providing excellent fusing right at the battery terminal. After removing some of the old cabling, and removing the fuse blocks, I wondered if part of my problem might be the blocks. After doing some quick voltage tests, I realized that two of the three batteries appeared to have blown fuses! ![Blue Sea Terminal Fuse Block Fuses](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/20160821-untitled-1_DxO.jpg) Good and bad fuse I had oriented the fuse blocks as best as possible for the cable runs from the batteries, not for viewing. After removing the fuses, I compared one bad one (bottom) to a good one (top). ![Zoomed in closer...](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/20160821-untitled-5_DxO.jpg) Zoomed in closer… Zooming in you can see that the bottom one has blown – the two smaller sections of the square nearest the center have melted away. ![MasterVolt MasterShunt connections](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/20160821-untitled-2_DxO.jpg) MasterVolt MasterShunt connections I know how this happened – there are two very close together connection points on the MasterVolt MasterShunt which are connected to the main positive and negative blocks for the boat. While I was reconnecting everything, I did one step out of order, and these were energized when I installed them. The negative lead just barely touched the positive one as I was connecting it, and of course a wonderfully big spark and nasty noise occurred. So the terminal block fuses did what they were supposed to, which is prevent it from hurting the batteries which were “down stream” of this point. The third battery is further away cabling-wise, so I suspect that’s why its fuse didn’t blow, although it could have been a number of reasons. While I am glad they worked, I really wish that there was an easier way to see that one of these have blown. Most people, like me, have these in battery locations which are not necessarily the easiest to get to or see in sometimes. It is also important to point out I’ve been using these for 5+ years and never had one blow, so perhaps it doesn’t happen that often? Glad I found the issue, and that my beautiful Firefly batteries are still happy. ### Best drink holder ever? URL: https://seabits.com/best-drink-holder-ever/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:42:27.000Z It seems like I have been in a perpetual search for ways to hold cups, glasses, cans, and other drinks while underway. That’s why I was very excited after hearing about a new [universal drink holder](http://www.zarcor.com/products/udh/index.php?ref=seabits.com) made by Zarcor. They are the manufacturer of a number of other products that you should definitely look into if you have a boat. My favorite project this last year was [replacing my cockpit hatch boards with custom doors](https://seabits.com/replacing-cockpit-hatch-boards-zarcor-doors/) which they made. This new universal drink holder is made of the same high quality Star Board material, crafted with a few neat tricks to help your drinks stay on board. ![Holder body](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/Holder-body.jpg) The main body is a three tiered affair that is designed to hold large drink glasses as well as varying sizes of smaller drinks. The partial circles of material start out large at the top, and get smaller as they go down. The bottom plate has various sizes routered into it to allow for the drinks to seat securely. ![Mounting pad](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/Mounting-pad.jpg) The main body clips onto the mounting pad, which has a convenient stainless steel clamp and hand tightener. It will fit on 5/8″ to 1-1/4″ rails, and acts like a gimbal so that the main body swings freely back and forth. ![Our favorite Tervis tumblers fit perfectly](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/Tervis-tumbler.jpg) Our favorite Tervis tumblers fit perfectly The best part is that they hold our Tervis tumbler glasses perfectly. We use these religiously for cold and hot drinks, and they are absolutely amazing. They keep things cold forever, don’t sweat, are nearly impossible to break, and have various lids, straws, and holders that make them a single universal cup on the boat. ![Beer cans fit well](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/Beer.jpg) Beer cans also fit in the holder, and are super secure. It can be slightly awkward to get the can out of the holder, but its well worth it for how secure it is. ![Even wine glasses fit](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/Wine-glass.jpg) Our super unbreakable plastic stemless wineglasses fit too. According to Zarcor, normal stemmed wine glasses fit as well. ![Glass bottles look good...](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/Glass-bottle-1.jpg) Glass bottled beer looks nice in the holder, but tend to tip outwards at inopportune times. ![...not as secure as I'd like.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/Glass-bottle-falling-out.jpg) I hardly ever allow glass bottles like this on the boat, so it really won’t be an issue long term. ![Two holders mounted on binnacle](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/08/Two-holders-mounted-on-binnacle.jpg) So far the holders have worked perfectly, and the crew loves them more than the 10 other types we’ve had in the last few years. Nothing has spilled or fallen out of them, and people can put whatever type of drink they want into them without thinking. I bought a couple of extra mounting pads, and stuck them in various areas so that people can move the holders around where its convenient. So far, so good! ### Ambient LED cabin lights URL: https://seabits.com/ambient-led-cabin-lights/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:44:37.000Z Adding more ambient light in the main salon and stateroom has been a priority since [replacing the halogen lights with CREE LEDs](https://seabits.com/halogen-light-replacement-cree-leds/) a few months ago. Having had extensive experience at home and work with LED strip lighting, I knew that I could find an elegant solution that would not break the bank. I started the research at my favorite LED site, [SuperBrightLEDs](https://www.superbrightleds.com/?ref=seabits.com), and settled on a simple configuration that I’m very happy with. Here are the high level goals with the project: - Provide ambient lighting in stateroom and salon - Must be LED and relatively low power - Must be dimmable - Each room should have separate controls - Must run off of 12V and usable while away from dock power - Slim controllers required due to install space ![Controller bag](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Controller-bag.jpg) After a bit of research, I settled on the [MCBRF-RGBW](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/mini-rgbw-led-controller-wireless-rf-remote-w-dynamic-color-changing-modes/3270/?ref=seabits.com) remote and controller bundle for $35 each. For the salon, I needed four of these because I intended on having four separate strips of lighting. For the stateroom, only one was required. ![LED controller and remote](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Controller-unboxed.jpg) This unit came with a remote and controller as pictured above. The controller is capable of being paired with up to 5 other remotes, or one remote can control up to 5 controllers – perfect for my use case in the salon where I will have 4 strips/controllers. ![Controller module](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Controller-module.jpg) The controller itself can handle between 6-24VDC and is extremely small. It is capable of controlling RGBW strips which stands for Red, Green, Blue and White. That last piece is very important as I will discuss below. ![Controller module 5 wires](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Controller-module-5-wires.jpg) Part of the challenge with install was connecting all of these tiny wires in tight spaces, but 3M scotchlok connectors and a good set of wire crimping tools are your friend. ![Controller module 3 wires](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Controller-module-3-wires.jpg) On the other end of the controller are the power wires and an antenna for the remote. ![Controller remote](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Controller-remote.jpg) The remote itself has pretty simple controls and allows you to have command of the different temperatures, brightnesses, and types of light (white or RGB) and even programs. I appreciate the White Only button which can quickly get you back to reasonable light, away from crazy club-scene flashy colors. I put a single remote in the salon, and another in the stateroom. I labeled them and stuck them to a prominent wall location with velcro so they can be used without taking them down. This also prevents them from floating around and being unavailable when you most need them. ![LED strip bag](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/LED-strip-bag.jpg) The strip of LED lights is the most important thing to do your research on. I have used this particular reel in about 10 other installs at home and elsewhere, and know the quality of the light and LEDs, and chose it here as well. This strip is [NFLS-RGBWW300X3-WHT](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rgb-bars-and-strips/led-strip-lights-with-white-and-multicolor-leds-led-tape-light-with-18-smds-per-ft-3-chip-rgbw-led-5050/1572/?ref=seabits.com) for $175\. I needed two reels based on the area I was covering. These strips have a 3M backing adhesive which makes install a breeze. Simply clean the surface beforehand, peel and stick, and you’re done! ![LED strip reel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/LED-strip-reel.jpg) ![LED strip unboxed](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/LED-strip-unboxed.jpg) The key for this strip is that it contains RGB and warm white LEDs. I have tried many other strips and can say that getting an appropriately colored white light is very hard. Many of them are too clinical and have too much blue in them, and really are harsh late at night. Others don’t have dedicated white LEDs, which is what you need to look for. Instead, they use the RGB LEDs to simulate white, which ends up being a combination of weird hues and never really looks like white. You can see in the picture above that there is a yellow looking LED which is actually the warm white producer. The other LED is for red-green-blue. ![Screen Shot 2016-07-14 at 12.16.20 PM](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Screen-Shot-2016-07-14-at-12.16.20-PM.png) The other thing you need to consider is the amount of light you will end up needing – essentially how many LEDs there are per foot/inch and their overall brightness ratings. SuperBrightLEDs has a ton of great information on each of their products including lumen per foot, overall lumen, lumen per LED, etc. You might assume that getting the brightest is best, but keep in mind that although they are dimmable, you may not be able to dim them low enough in night or other low light conditions. ![LED strip unboxed close up cut](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/LED-strip-unboxed-close-up-cut.jpg) This strip is also divided every 6 LEDs so you can cut to the length you need. Take care when cutting and ensure you are using very sharp scissors. The solder bumps are important to be able to use with the connector below. ![Electrical tools](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Electrical-tools.jpg) I chose to use a mix of standard butt connectors and 3M scotchlok connectors depending on the space I had available. I also was very lucky with wiring in all of these locations for 12V DC source – Beneteau wired my boat with fan circuits to three of the locations I needed to have power, and those were unused – stateroom, and the two upper runs in the salon. That simplified providing power to the controllers/strips. The two lower sections in the salon I ran power to from the main panel. ![RGBW end connector - photo courtesy SuperBrightLEDs](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/5-contact-flexible-light-strip-pigtail-connector-rgbw-strip.jpg) RGBW end connector – photo courtesy SuperBrightLEDs Once you cut a strip, you need a way to connect it to the controller. SuperBrightLEDs has an RGBW connector pictured above that essentially slides on the end of the cut piece and allows you to splice it to the controller. ![Connector being installed - photo courtesy of SuperBrightLEDs](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/5-contact-flexible-light-strip-pigtail-connector-rgbw-strip-connected.jpg) Connector being installed – photo courtesy of SuperBrightLEDs One tip here – make sure you scrape back the adhesive on the back of the strip to allow this connector to slide on easily – the thickness of the adhesive is significant enough not to allow it to have enough clearance. It is also good to ensure you have it oriented the right way – the colors of the wires should match the letters on the strip. Installation was pretty straightforward – connect all of the wires as documented, stick the strips down where you want, and you’re done. Pairing the remotes with multiple controllers is only a couple of key presses, and documented in the manual as well. ![RGB GIF](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/RGB-GIF.gif) Salon starboard installed and cycling through colors ![Sterm berth warm white underneath](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Sterm-berth-warm-white-underneath.jpg) Stateroom warm white from under bunk ![Stern berth side blue](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Stern-berth-side-blue.jpg) Stateroom showing off a bit of color ![Stern berth GIF loop](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Stern-berth-GIF-loop.gif) Color fest in the stateroom ![Warm white salon](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Warm-white-salon.jpg) Salon completed and showing off a beautiful warm white above and under the seats The overall result was better than I expected. The salon now has a ton of ambient light, so we don’t need to run the overhead CREE LED spots unless we’re playing cards or eating. The rest of the time there is a nice warm tone throughout the entire salon. At night, you can dim them way down, or even choose blue or red if you’re underway to save your night vision. ![Stern berth warm white](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Stern-berth-warm-white.jpg) The stateroom really made a difference as well. Now we don’t need any of the spots, and can leave the whole strip on super low at night as a night light. It makes the entire berth feel far warmer and there is a ton of more light to find things than we ever had before. ![Warm white salon quarter](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Warm-white-salon-quarter.jpg) Total list of parts and costs is below: - 5x controllers/remotes @ $35 each = $175 - 4x RGBW splice connectors @ $0.95 = $3.80 - 2x LED RGBW strip LED reels @ $175 each = $350 Total is $528.80 for a very configurable and controllable solution that will last a long time. ### Jarrell Cove URL: https://seabits.com/jarrell-cove/ Last updated: 2021-09-20T22:46:07.000Z The original plan for our fifth day of our [South Puget Sound](https://seabits.com/tag/South-Puget-Sound/) trip was to head back to Eagle Island or Oro Bay, but we decided head to [Jarrell Cove](http://parks.state.wa.us/523/Jarrell-Cove?ref=seabits.com) for a night and extend our trip. I was very excited to see Jarrell Cove again – one of my favorite places in all of Puget Sound. After the last few days of light wind, we were rewarded with 5-15 knots in the latter half of the day, allowing us to put in 5 or so hours of sailing. The weather continued to be perfect, with light clouds in the morning, and near 80 degree temps during the day with blue skies. ![Map of trip from Olympia to Jarrell Cove](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-Olympia-to-Jarrell-Cove-Map.png) We traveled 21.14nm this day, and had a max speed of over 7 knots, which was under sail in the channel right outside of Jarrell Cove. ![Josh keeping look out while we transit out of Olympia](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-Josh-standing-while-transiting-Budd-Inlet.jpg) The transit out of Olympia involved more keen watch around markers and channel depths. The Raymarine and Navionics charts were helpful in ensuring safe passage. I had been using Navionics dock-to-dock auto routing feature which we first [tested during our Port Orchard trip](https://seabits.com/port-orchard-weekend/) but with mixed results on this longer trip. The courses it plotted seemed less efficient than what I could steer myself, with wide turns around points and lots of extra distance. I ended up hand editing most all of the courses to save some time and distance, and to get closer to shore to take advantage of counter-currents. ![Lighthouse at Boston Harbor Marina](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-That-point.jpg) We motored most of the way through Dana Passage due to a competing tide and previous experience with serious tide rips here. After passing by Itsami Ledge, and turning up the channel, we stumbled upon a decent amount of wind and decided to start sailing. ![Jake at the helm](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-Jake-at-the-helm.jpg) Jake, a close friend of ours, came along on our 8 day trip without having stayed overnight on a sailboat before. Quite a leap of faith! He also was very interested in learning the basics of sailing, and studied beforehand. Along the way he had been driving off and on while under motor, and done some other basic stuff. Once we found some wind, I had him steer us into it to raise the sails, and handle the boat for a while after while under sail. He did very well, and continued to learn and help throughout the trip. ![Sailing up the channel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-Me-sailing-in-channel.jpg) At first the wind was pretty spotty but it is so much better to move along silently with the wind than have the motor chugging. ![Noel sailing up the channel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-Noel-sailing-in-channel.jpg) Dick and Jo on Noel were sailing along well, with even better speed than us. We tried to keep up, but they had the advantage for a while. ![Grace's mainsail looking good](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-Mainsail-best.jpg) I have had some challenges getting the mainsail looking the way it should since purchasing Grace around this time last year. After a lot of investigation and learning, the mainsail looks way better than it has in previous outings, and gave us plenty of power. ![Sailing upwind to Jarrell Cove](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-sailing-upwind-to-Jarrell-Cove.jpg) Once we rounded Dougall Point on the final leg into Jarrell Cove, there was 15+ knots of wind, and I got to sail Grace on an upwind course with everything close hauled. We were scooting along at around 8 knots of boat speed, and the crew absolutely loved it! She is so stable even with a 20+ degree heel and moving fast. Hard to tell in the picture above, but we are definitely not level with the horizon ? ![Noel on mooring at Jarrell Cove](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-Noel-on-mooring-at-Jarrell-Cove.jpg) Noel arrived a while before us, having given up on the wind an hour or so before. We motored into Jarrell Cove and grabbed a mooring ball right behind them with our Grab-n-go. After running a good line through in addition, tidying things up from the sail, we got to making dinner. This evening was to be on our own – Jo and Dick on Noel did their own thing as well, as we were all tired from the last few hot days and sailing. ![Dinner all ready ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-Dinner-ready-at-Jarrell-Cove.jpg) Josh had chosen a fantastic pasta and chicken caesar salad with garlic bread – I did the outdoor grilling as usual while Jake assisted Josh down below. It was amazingly delicious, and we all ate heartily after not having much to eat during the day. ![Planning for the next day's journey](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/05-Me-planning-for-the-next-days-journey-from-Jarrell-Cove-to-Eagle-Island.jpg) Someone snapped this super flattering photo of me doing trip planning on the Mac with a Windows virtual machine and Coastal Explorer, along with one of our vodka bottles. Thanks guys. ![Noel at mooring with grey skies](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Noel-on-mooring-at-Jarrell-Cove.jpg) The morning arrived with grey skies, much appreciated by both crews who were sunburned and ready for a break. Jake and I decided to explore some of the inlets and shore while the rest of the folks slept in or relaxed. ![Grace on mooring at Jerrell Cove](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Grace-on-mooring.jpg) Grace has had a 1-2 degree list to starboard since I bought her, and sometimes possible to see it in pictures. I have not been able to right it, and it bothers me, but it has not caused any major issues as of yet. She still looks sweet out on the water away from a dock! ![Jake and I exploring inlets](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Jake-and-I-exploring-Jarrell-Cove-inlets.jpg) The inlets in Jarrell are fun to explore – there are some right near the state park inner dock, and another set deep into the cove. We explored the ones nearest the park for a while with our dinghy. ![Deep in the reaches](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Exploring-Jarrell-Cove-inlets-two.jpg) The water was not circulating much, which meant for some interesting colors. ![Looking back towards Grace and Noel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Exploring-Jarrell-Cove-inlets.jpg) There were tons of birds hanging around the inlets, and you can go pretty far back in them and see all sorts of untouched areas of the park which appear to be unreachable from land. ![Jarrell Cove State Park map (courtesy Washington State Parks)](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Jarrell-Cove-full-color-Map-FINAL-07-30-14_201407311724575648.png) Jarrell Cove State Park map (courtesy Washington State Parks) The map above is available on the [Jarrell Cove State Park website](http://parks.state.wa.us/DocumentCenter/Home/View/1885?ref=seabits.com) and is helpful to see the full layout. ![Jarrell Cove State Park outer dock](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Jarrell-Cove-State-Park-outer-dock.jpg) The state park has two docks in Jarrell Cove. The outer one is deep enough at times for decent draft vessels, but only has a pump out station and dinghy dock, no overnight moorage. ![Jarrell Cove State Park inward dock](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Jarrell-Cove-State-Park-inward-dock.jpg) The further inner dock is much longer and allows overnight moorage, but when Noel got close it looked way too shallow for sailboats. At 7′ they backed away and decided on a mooring ball. There are a ton of those to choose from – 14 on the state park map, plus you could anchor if you wanted. However, it is pretty shallow in some spots, and you’ll be aground if you’re not careful at low tide! ![Jarrell Cove Marina ramp](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Jarrell-Cove-Marina-ramp.jpg) One of the cool spots here is the Jarrell Cove Marina and Store. I remember coming here long ago and having fun looking through the random stuff in the store. It is also one of the only places you can get fuel in this area of the sound. ![Jarrell Cove Marina docks](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Jarrell-Cove-Marina-docks.jpg) The marina hasn’t changed much since I was here 15+ years ago – lots of fun boats and well maintained slips and docks. ![ Jake at the Jarrell Cove Marina fuel dock](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Jake-at-the-Jarrell-Cove-Marina-fuel-dock.jpg) The fuel dock house is showing a little age. It has tons of moss on the roof, and some crazy fun windows that Jake wanted a picture in front of. ![View back towards Grace and Noel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Jarrell-Cove-Marina-view-back-towards-Grace-and-Noel.jpg) The biggest change I saw was the areas on shore that are landscaped and the tables and chairs available. I know there’s also an RV park somewhere nearby connected to the marina, so perhaps these are primarily there for them? The views are pretty nice with a fantastic maple tree! ![Me at my favorite place](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/06-Me-at-Jarrell-Cove-Marina-Panorama-1.jpg) Me at my favorite place I absolutely love Jarrell Cove for the seclusion, views, inlets, and the state park nearby. I will always try to find time when in the South Puget Sound to visit, and you should too! ### iKommunicate unboxing and install URL: https://seabits.com/ikommunicate-unboxing-install/ Last updated: 2022-04-19T14:21:57.000Z ⚠️ Readers have reported that this product is no longer supported and is running a very old version of Signal K. I no longer recommend this product due to limitations in its design, and the ability to build your own for much cheaper. Buyer beware! Back in [January 2015](https://seabits.com/signalk-first-look/), I stumbled across a fantastic open source project called [SignalK](http://signalk.org/?ref=seabits.com)that promised to help boating nerds like myself gain access to the data from all of the instruments on the boat. In October 2015, [Digital Yacht announced a Kickstarter campaign](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin?ref=seabits.com) for a product called [iKommunicate Gateway](http://ikommunicate.com/description/?ref=seabits.com), a hardware product with NMEA 2000 and NMEA 0183 connectivity, a web interface, and leveraging SignalK. Mine just arrived, and having spent so much time using SignalK on my Raspberry Pi, I was very excited to get it unboxed and running and see the differences. ![iKommunicate box](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-box.jpg) The box was pretty straightforward with a sticker to indicate it was an iKommunicate unit on the front. ![Included materials](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-box-open-papers.jpg) Inside are a registration card, welcome letter, and a product manual. ![Product manual](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-box-manual.jpg) The included product manual is extremely well written, and focuses on all of the key steps to get your system up and running. Clear pictures, simple steps, and lots of real estate (oversized 11×17 paper) is something other manufacturers should use as well. No one needs a 500 page manual of all of the functions – that’s best for online – but a very clear startup manual is a great way to get going. An electronic version is available on Digital Yacht site. ![Unit and parts in box](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-box-overview.jpg) The rest of the box contains the unit itself, an Ethernet cable, and an SD card adapter. ![Unit from the front quarter](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-unit-front-quarter-outside.jpg) The unit is made of plastic with a blue rubber edge around the front and back. It seems sealed well for the elements, although time will tell. ![Front of unit](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-unit-front-outside.jpg) The front of the unit has details on the unit itself, power requirements, phone numbers (another good idea that other manufacturers should copy) and all of the wire color codes for the power and NMEA 0183 connections. ![Unit from top](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-unit-overview-outside.jpg) The unit has mounting brackets integrated into the front and back with pre-drilled holes. ![Rear of unit](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-unit-rear.jpg) The rear of the unit is where the real fun begins. From left to right you have the power and NMEA 0183 cable, status lights, Ethernet port, and finally NMEA 2000 cable. I was surprised that there was not a wifi chip on the product, even back in the initial days on Kickstarter. Most products nowadays come with wifi in some form. Without this, I had to run an Ethernet cable from an undesirable location, which I thought was a thing of the past. I’d like to see future versions with a wifi option. It may not seem as reliable in some folks’ eyes, but I have had no issues with the rest of my wifi devices if setup correctly. ![Power and NMEA 0183](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-unit-rear-power-cable.jpg) The unit requires power via a black and red lead in the combo power/NMEA 0183 cable. I was surprised that it did not use the NMEA 2000 bus for power, but I suppose some installs will not have NMEA 2000 and only utilize NMEA 0183\. The specs say that it draws only 80mA so would powering it from the NMEA 2000 be an option in a future revision? The remainder of this cable includes NMEA 0183 leads – two full input/output at 4800 baud, and one input at 38400 for high speed talkers like AIS devices and the like. This is a lot of flexibility for those who have older networks (or no network at all) and want to connect everything together. I will only be using the NMEA 2000 connector. ![NMEA 2000 cable](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-unit-nmea2000-cable.jpg) The NMEA 2000 cable is what you would expect – a device cable with integrated end. No splicing or otherwise required – simply connect to your existing network with a tee. ![Blinky lights are blinking!](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-unit-rear-lights.jpg) Blinky lights are blinking! Connecting the system is super easy and consisted of three steps for me: 1. **Power** – red and black leads from power cable went to a 1A fused connection 2. **Ethernet** – long cable to my Peplink router 3. **NMEA 2000** – cable plugged into tee on my network After power was applied, I could see the status and error lights initially blink, and then status went green, while the NMEA 2000 light blinked with what I assumed was activity on the network. Time to login! ![Web interface start page](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-web-interface-start-page.jpg) Web interface start page The iKommunicate uses DHCP to get an IP address. Digital Yacht has a great set of instructions in the manual to help you figure out what the IP address of your unit is. I have a fancy Peplink router, and a networking background, and found it pretty quickly. The start page gives you a few jumping off points. I recommend trying the iKompass App first, and then exploring some of the admin areas. ![iKompass App in action](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKompass-Longer.gif) The iKompass App is a great way to make sure your system is working. Above you can see wind, depth, speed, GPS, compass, and AIS data all flowing into the app. Updates are rapid and appear to be using web sockets. I really like the colors and minimal layout approach to the data being displayed. ![SignalK instrument panel battery and tank data](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-instrument-panel-battery-and-tank.jpg) The best part of the iKommunicate Gateway and SignalK are the apps that people will be developing. Included in the iKommunicate is [Instrument Panel](https://github.com/SignalK/instrumentpanel?ref=seabits.com) which is one of the apps I’ve been using with SignalK for a long while. It allows you to choose data panels and gauges and lay them out in different pages and sizes as you see fit. One **big** difference I noticed to using the iKommunicate vs. my Raspberry Pi with an Actisense gateway is that the iKommunicate **sees more PGNs and data** than my other system – hooray! I’ve been trying to get battery voltages and tank levels forever on a web page somewhere. Now I can stand on the dock and fill my water tank, and use my phone to watch the level! This is the sort of innovation I’m really hoping will take off – new web-based apps that can visualize the tons of data on your boat in whatever format you want, on whatever device you want. I suspect the iKommunicates’ ability to see more PGNs is due to the chipset they are using on the NMEA 2000 side, and that it’s relatively unfiltered. I’ve had some challenges with the Actisense device I’ve used for the last 4+ years connected to my Linux systems filtering things without messing with it via Windows tools, and suspect some PGNs are simply not being read at all. In the above example, you can see my battery voltage (top), current amperage flowing out of the battery bank (middle left), temperature – which is clearly not correct (middle right), and the tank level. There is still a lot of work to be done to tune these pages – the names of the devices and objects are a bit confusing. I had to go to the devices page in the admin panel to figure out which device was what. This is an issue for the instrument panel folks, not Digital Yacht / iKommunicate. ![Instrument Panel in action](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Instrument-Panel-Nav.gif) Here’s another example showing heading, depth, wind, and other data. Its fantastic that I can customize these pages, and that they show up on different browsers and auto-resize. As I mentioned above, there is still a lot of work to do on cosmetic features and data manipulation, but the guys at SignalK are working fast and furious on all of this. The hope is that others will also start building apps and contributing those to be used with SignalK and iKommunicate. You can find out more about this [specifically for iKommunicate here](https://github.com/digitalyacht/ikommunicate/wiki/iKommunicate-Developers-Guide-%28SDK%29?ref=seabits.com), and more [generically for SignalK here](http://signalk.org/developers/index.html?ref=seabits.com). ![Configuring instrument panel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/Instrument-Panel-Configuration.gif) In the above example, I’m adding a new object to the dashboard (battery voltage) and resizing it to match the other items. Keep in mind these are looping GIFs and limited to about 14 seconds of data, so it replays over and over in a loop. ![Device list page in admin interface](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-web-interface-device-list.jpg) One of my favorite pages is the device list. This allows you to see all of the different devices the iKommunicate sees on your network, and is very handy for troubleshooting. Here is where you can also find those device names that you see in instrument panel. It doesn’t appear to recognize the manufacturer for much of my devices, even though they are mostly mainstream devices. ![Configuration page](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-web-interface-configuration.jpg) Also in the admin pages is a spot to configure your vessel name, MMSI, network settings, NMEA 0183 ports, and transmit ports for data out of the system. I always choose to setup static IP addresses when possible to prevent problems in the future, as you can see above. I also enabled transmitting NMEA 0183 data over TCP port 2000 so that I could use apps like iNavX to subscribe to the data stream coming from the iKommunicate box. I know that other app makers are also adding native SignalK support to their products which should be even better in the future, as many will be using auto-discovery, saving steps during setup. I’m also using this data stream for Coastal Explorer, SeaNavUS, and a few iOS and Android apps. Its very similar to the Vesper XB-8000 AIS system I have onboard which offers a similar stream, albeit with different NMEA 0183 sentences. The translation from NMEA 2000 to NMEA 0183 only supports a handful of sentences which are outlined in the users manual. I wish more folks would allow things like tank levels, battery voltages, and the like in their conversions, but from what I understand it is pretty difficult to get these all right depending on manufacturer. Hopefully all apps will start adopting SignalK so that those values are easier to consume. ![Downloading an update](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-web-interface-admin-panel-downloading-update.jpg) I knew there would likely be a software update soon, and went into the Administration tab in the interface and clicked Download Firmware Update. I was surprised that there was an update already available, and also pleased that the system downloaded it straightaway and applied it. The unit rebooted quickly and was back up in a few seconds. ![Unit open to retrieve SD card - image courtesy of Digital Yachts](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-SD-front-of-unit-showing-SD-card.jpg) One of the selling points of the iKommunicate is the ability to add additional web apps to the SD card in the unit. I think longer term it would be better to have this SD card exposed so that its easier to access. I’m not 100% sure of the intent for these new apps – is the plan to integrate them with the main firmware? This would seem difficult to manage. I think it would be great to allow users to upload packages of new apps, or have an app library somewhere you can browse. Since these apps are most likely standalone web packages, they don’t require dependencies and other crazy operating system stuff. They should be easy to update and upgrade faster than the unit firmware. I’m also curious how the embedded SignalK server itself will be updated – if Digital Yachts will take a more conservative approach and wait for bug-tested releases or versions, or allow developers and others to choose different tracks depending on their needs. I am not complaining – in fact, I’m glad we’re having these sorts of discussions as before SignalK and iKommunicate we had very little access to any of this data at all! ![iKommunicate unit front wood table](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/iKommunicate-unit-front-wood-table.jpg) I can already tell you within the first day of using the iKommunicate that it will be a major part of my boat network for the foreseeable future. It is much faster than my Raspberry Pi 3 running SignalK, sees more PGN’s and NMEA 2000 data than it does, and has a great web management UI that makes things easier to use. I’d like to see a wifi chip and the SD card more exposed, but otherwise the unit itself is a great bit of hardware and software engineering. Hats off to the Digital Yachts folks for their design and manufacturing work – from October 2015 to now (**8 months!**) is an amazingly short time to pull off a great product. I can’t wait to get deeper in learning to build apps and see the community around that area grow. I’m very excited to have the first SignalK-powered commercial product on *Grace*, and see the beginning of a new era for marine electronics, putting more control of boat data in the consumers hands. ### Olympia and Swantown Marina URL: https://seabits.com/olympia-swantown-marina/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:34:36.000Z The third and fourth days of our [South Puget Sound](https://seabits.com/tag/South-Puget-Sound/) trip were spent getting to and enjoying Olympia and [Swantown Marina](http://www.portolympia.com/70/Swantown-Marina-Boatworks?ref=seabits.com). We left our mooring at Eagle Island mid-morning, and headed along the north end of Anderson Island under motor, passing through tons of crab pots. The weather was beautiful – clear skies and an expected high of 75\. Wind was very light, so we motored until the Devils Head area. ![Eagle Island to Olympia track via DeLorme InReach Explorer](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Eagle-Island-to-Olympia-Map.png) Eagle Island to Olympia track via DeLorme InReach Explorer Total distance for this leg of our trip was 16.43nm, an average of 6 knots speed. ![Josh relaxing near Devil's Head with the Olympics in the background](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Eagle-to-Olympia-Josh-with-mountains.jpg) Josh relaxing near Devil’s Head with the Olympics in the background Around this time I noticed that my favorite small camera, a Panasonic DMC-LF1, had some sort of aberration in photos I was taking. You can see it in the picture above in the upper left. Unfortunately, to clean this requires taking the entire camera apart and accessing the sensor deep inside, something I was not able to find a safe place to do for the rest of the trip. I left my big Nikon at home due to space concerns, but will never do that again! ![Noel under sail](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Eagle-to-Olympia-Noel-sailing.jpg) Noel under sail We started feeling a bit of a breeze and decided to try to sail for a bit. Noel was up first with sails and cruised on by. ![Grace under sail ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Eagle-to-Olympia-Grace-sailing.jpg) Grace under sail as seen from Noel Noel took some great pics of us sailing by as well. Our mainsail looked far better this time around compared to our [trip to Winslow](https://seabits.com/back-to-winslow-wharf-bainbridge-island/). I found the leech line was strangely run through two grommets several times to take up the slack, which needed to be longer. In addition, the reef lines were also tangled weirdly, and some other minor adjustments to outhaul and vang got our mainsail into perfect condition for the rest of the trip. ![Motoring by Johnson Point](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Eagle-to-Olympia-Johnson-Point.jpg) The wind died and it started getting hot, so we decided to motor around Johnson Point and the rest of the way in. ![Budd Inlet and Olympia channel overview](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Olympia-Channel-Navionics-Wide.jpg) Budd Inlet and the entrance channel into Olympia is a moderately challenging path with lots of markers and buoys to pass through. None of us had been to Swantown before which is in the East Basin. We had all been to Percival Landing and the West Basin before, which is a much more straight shot down the channels. ![East bay channel marker](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Olympia-Channel-Navionics-Close-In-with-Path.jpg) The first turn into the east bay channel is marked by a strange marker that none of us had ever seen before. What was confusing was that Navionics both on my iPad and on the Raymarine chart plotter showed it as a green marker. ![Closer view of marker in Navionics](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Olympia-Channel-Navionics-Weird-Marker.jpg) Here’s a closer view of the marker showing that it’s green, and clicking on it shows only details on its flashing light, which at 2pm on a summer day are pretty worthless. ![SeaNav US vector charts of same area](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Olympia-Channel-SeaNav-Weird-Marker.jpg) In SeaNav US using standard NOAA vector charts, you can see a completely different representation – something that looks like green over red. ![Marker details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Olympia-Channel-SeaNav-Marker-Details.jpg) According to SeaNav US the color should be Green-Red-Green, which was confirmed by what we saw. Unfortunately we did not have SeaNav US running, nor did I think of flipping to vector/NOAA charts on the Raymarine (which I have downloaded monthly via LightHouse charts) to check the data there. I bet it would have the right data. Paper charts showed the right information as well. Always pays to have not only several sources of data, but a paper backup! ![Swantown guest docks](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Swantown-Guest-Docks.jpg) The map above is from Navionics and I labeled the guest docks – please be aware that the piers represented are **not accurate** – there are more finger piers on each dock. We had no map nor could find one online, so it was a bit of a guessing game to get to the right spot. We went in first, did a circle or two, and found the A dock and our slip pretty quickly. We radioed Noel the details of their slip and quickly docked. It would be great if marinas who have guest docks document them online at the minimum so that new visitors know where to go. I can’t imagine doing this in a crowded channel on a weekend in a strange marina. The guest docks are roomy, and even had nice signs showing our boat names and dates we were staying! The numbering and layout of the guest docks is a bit confusing – C dock starts to the outwards and is only one set of finger piers, B in the middle, and A the furthest inward. ![Grace showing her pride!](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Olympia-Grace-pride-bow.jpg) Grace showing her pride! Sunday was the annual [Seattle Pride Celebration](http://seattlepride.org/?ref=seabits.com) and we were missing it for the first time in years. I did bring along a couple of pride flags and we flew those and supported the festivities in our own way. ![More pride!](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Olympia-Grace-pride-stern.jpg) More pride! [Olympia had their own Pride celebrations](http://www.capitalcitypride.net/welcome/?ref=seabits.com) only a week prior to our arrival. ![Salty concerned with our air conditioner](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/03-Olympia-Salty-looking-at-water.jpg) It was plenty hot at the dock (at least 80) and we fired up Grace’s air conditioner which uses a heat pump and outside water to cool itself. It ejects the warm used water over the port side through a through hull that is up out of the water. Salty, Jo and Dick’s cat, really did not like the water going overboard, and examined it a few times to ensure it was behaving. ![Swantown guest bathrooms](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/04-Olympia-Swantown-bathrooms.jpg) We stayed two nights at Swantown so the crews had a rest from moving every day. I grade marinas (and hotels for that matter) on the quality of their bathrooms, and Swantown gets an A+ grade. There are two showers available nearby the guest docks along with full bathrooms and laundry. Both are supposed to be open 6AM-9PM but we had difficulties getting in due to problems with their security system. A quick call to the marina office (number is posted on each door) had them open within seconds remotely. Showers and laundry are coin operated. Showers are amazingly roomy with an entry room area with plenty of hooks, seating, and a big full length mirror. Each shower is private with it’s own outside door. The shower itself is very large, tiled nicely, and has great pressure and a proper height shower head – a pet peeve of mine. They also had a special heat lamp that was like the surface of the sun – nice on a cold day. ![Grace and Noel at guest dock](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/04-Olympia-Swantown-Grace-and-Noel-in-guest-marina.jpg) Grace and Noel at guest dock Swantown was one of the cleanest and well kept marinas I had visited in a long while. The docks were very modern looking, and all of the other facilities were really well taken care of. I visited the marina office to check in and was given welcome bags for both us and Noel with helpful info about nearby businesses and the usual marketing stuff. The marina office sells ice in both block and crushed form, but it is a bit of a walk back to the guest docks. Ice and a small boat store are also available at the boat yard even further down into the basin. ![Exploring Swantown docks](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/04-Olympia-Swantown-exploration.jpg) The marina is much larger than I expected with very wide fairways and wonderful boats to look at. I’m always on the search for other Beneteaus and ended up finding a few here that were of the same vintage as Grace. ![Dinghying in to Percival Landing](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/04-Olympia-Percival-Landing.jpg) Josh and Jake decided to walk over to stores near Percival Landing and in Olympia. It looked like a bit over a mile walk, but once they got there in 80 degree heat, they requested a pick up via dinghy. ![Capitol in the distance](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/04-Olympia-Percival-Landing-Capitol.jpg) Percival Landing hasn’t changed much since I was there years ago. Lots more food and things to see here than at Swantown. I think that would be the only negative we have about Swantown – it’s a bit removed from anything that you’d want to visit without getting a taxi or walking a long distance. ![All of us in the dinghy on the way back to the marina](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/IMG_2939.jpg) All of us in the dinghy on the way back to the marina The winds picked up, and it was a bit of a wet ride both over and back, with our brand new engine dying while out in the middle of it due to trim and the tiny fuel tank on the top. Not the most comfortable feeling with 1+ foot waves. ![Dinner on the BBQ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/04-Olympia-Swantown-sunset-bbq.jpg) This was the first trip we got to use our new 15″ party-size Magma BBQ and while I liked the extra space for food, it’s stability seems far less than the original 13″ we had before. I was also disappointed to find out that it did not have a piezo lighter and required a long lighter. I believe the instability is because of the sheer size of the grill all sitting on a single bolt. The food still tasted good! ![Sunset from Swantown guest docks](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/04-Olympia-Swantown-sunset.jpg) Our two day stay at Swantown was very relaxing. The boat launch and rowing docks are just to the outside of the guest docks and provided endless views and entertainment. It was very clean, quiet, and safe feeling, although a bit removed from town. I will definitely stay here again in the future. ### Tacoma and Eagle Island URL: https://seabits.com/tacoma-eagle-island/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:37:00.000Z Our [South Sound trip](https://seabits.com/tag/South-Puget-Sound/) was just getting started, with our first stop being in Tacoma at the Breakwater Marina, near Point Defiance. Day two would see us at Eagle Island, one of our favorite stops the whole trip. The first day was not perfect weather, but pretty close. Around 65 degrees with scattered showers running around, and a 15-20 knot wind. ![Blake Island astern of us as we make our turn down Colvos](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/01-Blake-Island-and-Dinghy.jpg) We chose to use Colvos Pass to go from Seattle to Tacoma as it is usually more protected, and has a counter-current close inshore, which we needed due to tides and timing. We also were headed to the Breakwater Marina, which is much further out along the point, and almost right at the end of Colvos. ![Our route from Seattle to Tacoma](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/01-Map-Seattle-to-Tacoma.png) I used the DeLorme InReach Explorer for all of our trip, and I have to say it was amazingly useful to let my contacts on-shore know when I was starting to move for the day, and when I had ended my journey. I filled out a detailed float plan at the beginning of the trip and sent it to them ahead of time, but the DeLorme was perfect for them to follow along with on a daily basis. *Seattle to Tacoma (Breakwater Marina) – 20.95 NM, 4 hours 50 minutes, average speed 4.33 knots, max speed 6 knots.* ![Colvos Pass with grey skies](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/01-Colvos-Pass.jpg) The wind continued to be on our nose most of the way down Colvos, but the good news was that the clouds were breaking up and things were getting warmer. ![Houses in Colvos Pass](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/01-Colvos-Pass-houses.jpg) I love Colvos because of all of the little coves and houses. Even after sailing around here most of my adult life, and growing up a large portion of my childhood on Vashon Island, I still find new things to look at going up and down the pass. ![Tacoma in the distance](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/01-Tacoma-in-the-distance.jpg) One thing that I found very difficult is finding space at a marina in the Gig Harbor / Tacoma area. I’ve stayed at Arabella’s Landing in Gig Harbor before, but they were completely full with a yacht club. The other marina in Gig Harbor, Gig Harbor Marina, required you to sign a full agreement just to stay one night – this included over 10 pages of contract, providing your insurance details, and signing things that frankly made me very suspect of their facilities. I would caution anyone looking at staying there to read the fine print – they essentially absolve themselves of any damage to your boat for any reason, which I have never seen in even a normal permanent moorage agreement. Tacoma was no better – Dock Street Marina was full (more on them later as it became a daily discussion), Foss Harbor had us reserved, but then a week before cancelled it with little help. All of the other spots were either full or couldn’t figure out what to do. Becky at Breakwater Marina saved us and found two spots for the one night we needed to be in the Tacoma area. We were trying to coordinate our big father/mother’s day dinner with my parents, who had to drive to meet us, and needed ADA accessible restaurants. Breakwater is right at the Pt. Defiance ferry terminal, with an Anthony’s restaurant nearby. The dinner company and gifts were great, but the food was so-so, and the ambiance the usual too-noisy-to-be-heard Anthony’s style. ![Tacoma to Eagle Island....sort of...](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Map-Tacoma-to-Eagle-Island.png) Day two had a very early start at 6:30AM, which for a vacation, was not super popular with the crews. We had to be at the Narrows for slack at 8:30, and folks wanted showers, breakfast, etc. beforehand. I of course completely forgot to start the DeLorme tracker until we rounded Pt. Defiance and saw the bridges in the distance. Oops… The weather was overcast with no wind, about 65 degrees. ![Narrows Bridges in the distance with Noel leading the way](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Narrows-in-the-distance.jpg) Josh’s dad Dick led the way in Noel, having done this probably hundreds of times in his 60+ years of sailing. Noel is a beautiful Newport 30 that he has owned for over 25 years and is completely setup for long term coastal cruising. ![Noel motoring along](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Noel-near-McNeil-Island.jpg) Dick knows these waters better than anyone else I’ve sailed with, and took advantage of currents and routes that I never would have seen. I used the Dock-to-Dock auto routing features of Navionics / Raymarine a bunch of times this trip, and was disappointed how inefficient they were. If I had followed their routes, I suspect I would have been several miles behind Dick at the end of each day. ![Passing under Narrows Bridges](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Narrows-Bridges.jpg) Passing under the bridges and through the Narrows was uneventful – we definitely timed it right. I did like using the Navionics iPad app the entire trip to plan tides, transits, distance, and routes. Dick also got to play around with it a bit and seemed to like it vs. the old traditional paper mess. ![Wurlitzer Manor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Wurlitzer-house.jpg) After you transit the Narrows heading south, on the starboard side you’ll see a huge house with lots of windows – that’s the [Wurlitzer Manor](http://www.wurlitzermanor.com/?ref=seabits.com). Long ago when my dad was still practicing as a civil engineer, he helped design this house and fixes to it. It houses a massive Wurlitzer Organ in it which is pretty rare, and has guest accommodations available for overnight stays. There are also concerts and other activities that they host throughout the year. ![Cliff climbing](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Cliff-I-climbed.jpg) I grew up in Gig Harbor, so this whole area was very familiar to me, although I hadn’t sailed in it for at least 15 years. I saw many landmarks and special spots from previous trips, including one from middle school or early high school where a friend and myself climbed the cliff above, and got into poison ivy. We didn’t know until a day later, and my brother got it after borrowing my jacket that I wore the day of the trip. The cliff still looks steep, but now there are houses everywhere above it, which I don’t remember. ![McNeil Island prison](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-McNeil-prison.jpg) One of the big discussion topics on our trip was McNeil island, which used to be a Federal Penitentiary. I was surprised to learn that in 2010 it shut down due to budget, and has been used for violent sex offenders only, and only a portion of the facility. It looked like they had a ton of vehicles, buildings, three Argosy-style boats to go back and forth, and a ton of houses and other things spread around the island. We were all curious what the State intends to do with the island, as everything we saw other than the main compound was boarded up and abandoned. I personally think it should be given back to the people since it’s been in state or federal ownership since the mid 1800’s. There’s a ton of great space on the island, and I would love to see it developed as another stop on a marine or other park, rather than sold to the highest bidder for waterfront homes. ![Eagle Island nearby](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Eagle-Island-nearby.jpg) Eagle Island is one of my favorite places in the south sound, and we were lucky enough to snag the mooring buoy on the far side facing towards Longbranch. I was surprised not to see the two buoys on either side of the island that the chart indicated – perhaps the parks system has removed a couple? ![Grace and Noel at Eagle Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Grace-and-Noel-on-Eagle-Island-mooring.jpg) We used our [Grab-n-go mooring hook](http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276137&id=99738&ref=seabits.com) to catch the buoy on arrival, which I highly recommend to anyone who uses buoys frequently. It makes it super easy to catch the ring and then add a more permanent line after things have settled down. I added that second line before Noel came up to raft, leaving the grab-n-go slack as a secondary backup. ![Internet speeds while at Eagle Island ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Eagle-Island-internet.jpg) I was pleased to see very respectable internet speeds from the Pepwave system on board. I recently added an amplifier and antenna combo that I had been tuning and playing with to help with overall connectivity while underway and in remote spaces. This particular test was from my iPhone while the Pepwave was connected to Verizon’s LTE network. Later on in the trip, we’d switch to AT&T for several locations, and back to Verizon in others. At no point along the entire trip were we disconnected for more than a few minutes while the Pepwave switched SIM cards to find the best signal. The crew even started watching Hulu and Netflix, much to my surprise, at various different locations without any problems. Even Jo on Noel used our WiFi network while we were close together to surf and post things. ![Josh relaxing in our sky chair](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Josh-relaxing-in-our-sky-chair-at-Eagle-Island.jpg) Relaxing while not underway is one of our top priorities. Jo and Dick clued us in on a chair that they have used a couple of years ago called the [Sky Chair](http://www.skychairs.com/?ref=seabits.com). Josh and his best friend Heather have long had battles over who would get the chair on Noel when they were growing up, so it only seemed right for us to have one on Grace. They look a little intimidating to setup, but I’ve found it far better than the traditional hammock because you can control them better, get in and out without feeling like you’re going to fall to your death, and move around more to see the sights. ![Josh and Jake on Eagle Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Josh-and-Jake-on-Eagle-Island.jpg) Using our dinghy and new outboard, we headed into the island for a bit of exploring. We tried searching for the pay station at all of the state park signs, but were never able to find it. Perhaps it was removed with the buoys as well? ![Eagle Island trails](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Eagle-Island-trails.jpg) The trails seemed pretty well used, although we came to a dead end on the northern most tip of the island and had to do some backtracking. ![Eggs on Eagle Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Eagle-Island-eggs.jpg) In one of the clearings where there was a picnic table and state park sign, we came across a nest on the ground that included some fairly sizable eggs. They were about the size of an average adult fist, and had brown splotches on them. They looked recently laid, and not broken open, so we moved through as quickly as possible. We weren’t able to identify their owner, but assume perhaps a blue heron or other bird of that size? ![Shoal near Eagle Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-eagle-island-shoal.jpg) Late on Saturday was a super low tide, and we were treated with a fun spectacle. Just a short distance from our mooring was a shoal and marker, part of which surfaced at low tide. ![Seals on the shoal](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Seals-on-Shoal.jpg) Eagle is apparently a big spot for seals both in the water and on land – lots of warnings on the island posted about staying away from them and their young. The shoal also appeared to be a favorite spot for them – at one point we counted over 20 hanging out and sunning themselves. It also appeared that it might be mating season, as many were chasing what we assumed to be the females. Later that night we heard them on the beach and in the water late into the night. The water was also full of phosphorescence, something our friend Jake had never seen. It was absolutely magical – bright stars, seals calling, and the phosphorescence flowing by the mooring buoy. ![Sunset at Eagle Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/07/02-Eagle-Island-sunset.jpg) Eagle has always been one of my favorite places, and this visit reinforced that. We will definitely be back again to this gem in the South Sound. ### South Puget Sound Trip URL: https://seabits.com/south-puget-sound-trip/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:37:59.000Z Today we begin a week long trip from Seattle headed into South Puget Sound. I’ve been planning for this trip for months, as it’s the longest I’ve taken in a long time, and the longest we’ve ever taken on Grace. The trip will have us visiting Tacoma, Oro Bay, Eagle Island, Olympia, Joemma Beach, and Hope Island, plus a bunch of other stops along the way. There will be some great opportunities for posts along the way, as well as updates on some of the big projects that I have completed to help the trip be a success. We will be meeting Josh’s mom and dad on their sailboat Noel at our first stop in Tacoma, and spending a lot of late evenings playing cards – a much deserved vacation for all! ![South Sound route with times and fuel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/South-Sound-route-with-times-and-fuel.jpg) Our route for the next 7 days Just for fun I tried to create a route for the next 7 days in Navionics on the iPad to see the overall trip length, fuel usage, and more. While not useful for navigation, it’s interesting to see the overall stats. Part of my real planning exercise was to use Navionics for each leg of the journey, changing the speed and parameters around the boat, and recording that all in a spreadsheet. Grace can do 6 knots constantly (most of the time closer to 7 knots), but Noel’s top speed is about 5.5 knots. Having a way to tweak the numbers and routes and see where things could be optimized was very helpful. ![Google Sheets spreadsheet of the journey plan](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Sheets-planning.png) Google Sheets spreadsheet of the journey plan The last few weeks have been extremely busy for me – completing major and minor projects to make sure we were ready for a long trip. Some of those minor projects I hope to highlight here while on the trip. ![One grocery cart...](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Grocery-cart.jpg) One grocery cart… Along with us on the trip is our friend Jake who has not done a ton of sailing, but is looking forward to learning a lot. Both he and Josh also have some crazy plans for crabbing and fishing that I have stayed out of, other than helping find a crab pot. We’ll see if they catch any huge salmon trolling behind us while underway. ![Grace being loaded out](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Panorama.jpg) Getting everything loaded out for the next 7 days is always a challenge, but I think we’ll be fine. We’re also going to Swantown Marina in Olympia for the middle of our trip, and should be able to re-provision if necessary. While underway we’ll be trackable via our DeLorme InReach and on the usual AIS maps. Hope to see some of you on the water! ### Installing a Wallas heater URL: https://seabits.com/installing-wallas-heater/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:40:20.000Z Grace came with a 15,000 BTU air conditioner that could also heat, but was extremely inefficient, loud, and required AC power. It also did not draw air in from outside, if left on overnight, you could wake up feeling like a prune. I had always been interested in the Wallas line of diesel heaters after seeing [Pacific NW Boater’s review](http://www.pacificnwboater.com/channels/marine-product-demos-installations/programs/wallas-diesel-heater-install?ref=seabits.com) of them and hearing things from fellow boaters, so I took the plunge and installed one. ![Wallas 30dt Heater](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/30dt-2-1.png) Wallas 30dt Heater Top reasons I went with Wallas: - DIY install - Ultra quiet - Air circulation - Low amp draw - Scan Marine support # DIY Install Since I do most of my projects myself, it was important that I could do this install without huge efforts, and avoiding thousands of dollars for a “marine installer” to do the job. The previous owner of Grace paid to have an air conditioner installed, which I have since had to correct multiple major problems with. The invoices for the installers work totaled over $2000 for work that actually put pipes and other things at risk near the stove, and left sawdust and leavings inside every space they worked in, 2+ years later. [Scan Marine](https://www.scanmarineusa.com/?ref=seabits.com), the US distributor of Wallas, have tons of info on their site about self install which I read before purchase. I highly recommend checking out their [Tech Talk](https://www.scanmarineusa.com/support/tech-talk?ref=seabits.com)section to see all of the options for install. ![Scan Marine storefront](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Scan-Marine-StoreFront.png) I am lucky that Scan Marine is only a mile from my house, so I spent several hours talking with the guys at the store about my install, and they customized my entire package on the spot for exactly what I needed. They also took me through a full demo of a working system, and walked me through specific things I should watch in my install. I highly recommend working with Scan Marine for a perfect solution. # Ultra Quiet Webasto heaters are legendary for sounding like a 747 taking off even at idle. Much of this is in the design and combustion method/process, and I know they have gotten better in newer versions, but still louder than I would like. Listening to the demo Wallas unit at the store, at low speed it was barely detectable that it was on. Even at high speed it was not intrusive at all. # Air Circulation Air circulation is critical in the damp clime we have here in the Puget Sound, and Grace had very poor ventilation as she came from the factory. The original hatch boards had a few holes drilled in them, and that’s all I could find that would circulate the air. No vent fan, intake, or anything else was present. It has caused a lot of issues with Grace in terms of keeping mold down, and keeping us comfortable on longer trips. Wallas heaters can be installed where they gather fresh air from another space or outside the boat, send it in the heating ducts, and a return duct pulls it back out to be re-used or otherwise. Running the system this way only draws about an amp at low speeds, and uses a very long life fan, so I plan on using it this way year round, even while I am away from the boat. # Design I spent a decent amount of time designing my installation, mainly the paths of the ducts and locations for equipment. The most difficult choice was where to put the heater so it could have a clear path for the exhaust, while still being close enough to deliver the heat to the main cabin. After discussing the overall heat load with the Scan Marine folks, I chose the [Wallas 30dt unit](http://www.wallas.fi/index.php?id=45&ref=seabits.com). They recommended this size based on the max and minimum BTU’s as well as a bunch of other criteria. The BTU is usually what most people look at, but only the max. It is important not to over design your solution – if you have too high of a low end BTU rating, then you’ll cook yourself out when the unit is at the absolute lowest setting. ![Heater installation design](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Heater-Map.png) Heater installation design I settled on installing the heater in the lazarette (it’s the large black rectangle above) for several reasons: it was close to power connections, easy to pipe the exhaust out the stern, and had access to a lot of fresh air in the lazarette and outside to pull in for circulation. The design also required getting two ducts up into the main part of the boat – one for heat into the salon, and one for return air. Fortunately I found that there was a way to do that through the stern stateroom. The second heating duct was a short run into the owners cabin, and the control wire / panel was also installed further into that cabin. Thank you to [SailboatOwners member RickSegal](http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/b311-or-321-heater-location.178855/&ref=seabits.com) for providing some pictures and videos of his 321 setup that helped with this design. # Installation The first step was to install the heater in the lazarette, and run the exhaust. That took the least amount of time as it was all very short runs, and easy to get to, as lazarettes go. I still got stuck several times trying to contort my body into the right shapes to get it in the space. ![Exhaust port](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Wallas-30dt-heater-install-exhaust.jpg) The exhaust on the 20 and 30dt models is pretty slick – it uses two pipes combined together – one for pulling in combustion air into the chamber, and one for exhaust gases from the process. The piping can be a bit of a bear to deal with in a small space since they are very sharp stainless steel, but once you wrangle them into place, you’ll have a very clean install. It is very important on a sailboat to place the exhaust as far astern as possible on one of the sides of the boat – not directly on the stern. Otherwise you’ll have the station wagon effect where the stern suction might pull the fumes in. Having it on the side, past the widest point of the boat, makes sure that when you’re at anchor, the wind comes down the side of the boat, and sucks the exhaust away, and not into the cabin. I also **highly recommend installing a carbon monoxide detector** if you do not already have one. While heaters are generally safe if installed correctly, a weird anchorage, bad wind direction, or failed component could cause deadly levels in the cabin. So could your engine, for that matter! In addition, it is critical that you follow Wallas’ design recommendation for the piping, having a 12″ rise from the hole in the boat to the top of a bend down to the heater. I chose to use a 2.5 gallon Wallas-manufactured day tank for the diesel supply because my engine tank was very difficult to get to. The surveyor commented that “they built the boat around the tank” it was so tightly integrated. In the future, I plan on looking into tapping the tank so I don’t have to have a dedicated one for the heater. ![Running the ducts through the stern cabin](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Wallas-30dt-heater-install-routing-the-ducts.jpg) Once that was complete it was time to run the ducting from the heater into the salon and stateroom. That required removing the wood panel that is on the port side of the master stateroom. Above you can see the ducting before I cut holes to get it to the heater. I have to say one of the worst parts of this install was using hole saws. I generally avoid them if I can, but they are usually one of the only ways to cut holes in boats without complicated jigs. This install required a 2″, 3″ and 4″ hole saw – the latter being the largest one I had ever used. Be very careful when using hole saws – both with your hands and wrists, and what you’re cutting into. ![The mess while installing](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Wallas-30dt-heater-install-mess.jpg) One of the challenges was getting a duct into the salon. The air conditioner takes up a huge amount of space under the galley sink – you can see one of the grey air ducts for it sticking out in the picture above. I chose to remove the AC duct run from the galley to the stateroom, and use that for the heater duct. ![Relocating the AC vent](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Wallas-30dt-heater-install-moving-AC-vent.jpg) To retain the AC in the stateroom, I installed the old port so it could point into the room, but also dump air into the main salon, which usually gets hotter than anywhere else. That required about a foot of ducting since it is in the same console as the AC unit, and a new 4″ hole for the vent. Once the AC duct was out of the way, I used the path for the new heating duct into the salon. ![Heating vent in main salon](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Wallas-30dt-heater-install-salon-vent.jpg) The vents were easy to install, and look very sharp. They allow you to adjust the airflow (inside damper) and change the direction by spinning the front of the cover. ![Control panel in stern stateroom](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Wallas-30dt-heater-install-control-panel.jpg) The final step was installing the control panel, which is a work of art. Pictures don’t do it justice – the lights light up in different shades and blink patterns, and the thing feels like a well oiled piece of machinery. This was installed in the master stateroom. # Conclusions The whole solution is definitely a moderate skills DIY project, and the unit itself is beautifully made. It heats amazingly fast, is easy to control, and super quiet. I had no issues with installation and getting it up and running, and I attribute a lot of that to Scan Marine’s documentation and help. I have found far more benefit in the air circulation than the heater. I am sure I will use it more than a few times throughout the year for heat, but I think it will end up being a more important air circulation device year round. I would recommend it for any ill-ventilated boat. We have used it in the winter months and it quickly heats up the entire boat very efficiently. One of the best comfort upgrades we could have done! ### Scouting trip to Lummi Island URL: https://seabits.com/scouting-trip-lummi-island/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:44:42.000Z One of our close friends has a cabin on Lummi Island, and for her birthday we decided to all go up and spend a few days there. I had never visited Lummi, so I was excited to see the island and learn more about it. Having spent a lot of my childhood and then later my 30s on Vashon Island, I knew that island life in Puget Sound was different than the “mainland”, and Lummi didn’t disappoint. While there, I was able to fly my quad copter around a bit, as well as explore future anchorage spots for a trip up north hopefully later this year. ![Lummi Island Map overview from Google Maps](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Lummi-Island-Map-overview-from-Google-Maps.png) Lummi Island is technically part of the San Juan Islands, located about 2 hours north of Seattle via car. The nearest big town is Bellingham, and you have to drive through the Lummi Indian Reservation to reach the 6 minute ferry crossing. ![Lummi Island Ferry Whatcom Chief](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Lummi-Island-Ferry-Whatcom-Chief.jpg) I tend to get motion sick on longer trips, but this day was windy and blustery with what I saw to be almost 4 foot waves, and the ride across was quite exciting. I got sick. ![Cabin Panorama View](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Cabin-Panorama-View.jpg) Panoramic view from the cabin The cabin had a wonderful view towards Portage Island and in the distance Bellingham. Because we had so many people, a few of us stayed at a rental beach house down near the ferry dock. ![Beach rocks and view towards Lummi Island Ferry](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Beach-rocks-and-view-towards-Lummi-Island-Ferry.jpg) Beach rocks and view towards Lummi Island Ferry We spent a lot of time driving around the island and visiting various art locations as it was their yearly [studio tour](http://www.lummi-island.com/studio-tour/?ref=seabits.com). There were lots of diverse artists and things to see. ![Lummi Island view towards Orcas Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Lummi-Island-view-towards-Orcas-Island.jpg) Orcas Island in the distance While on the island, I tried to find a spot on the western side where I had a clear view towards Friday Harbor, [Steve Roberts of microship.com](http://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com), and specifically to test out his [automated marine radio check system on VHF channel 28](http://microship.com/automated-marine-radio-check-vhf-28/?ref=seabits.com). Unfortunately I was not successful. Whenever I am messing around with radio stuff, I head over to [HeyWhatsThat.com](http://www.heywhatsthat.com/?ref=seabits.com) and generate a panorama to see what is in my way. ![HeyWhatsThat map](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Screen-Shot-2016-06-10-at-6.22.57-PM.png) HeyWhatsThat map You can see in the map above that I have little chance of being successful. A panorama and more details are [here](http://www.heywhatsthat.com/?view=TMFSKJHB&ref=seabits.com). ![Sucia Island from Lummi Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Sucia-Island-from-Lummi-Island.jpg) Sucia Island in the distance Josh spent a lot of time growing up on his parents sailboat, and one of the places he talks about fondly is Sucia Island. He hadn’t realized that it was within sight of Lummi, where he had been coming for years beforehand. It was great to show it to him in the distance and know it was an easy sail away if we ever come back on the sailboat. ![Amazing sunset from Lummi Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Sunset-from-Lummi-Island.jpg) The sunset was absolutely spectacular that evening and I have far too many pictures of it to post here, but the one above is a favorite which I’ve added to my desktop background rotation. ![Our beach house](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Beach-house-from-quad-copter.jpg) Our beach house I finally had the opportunity to spend some time with the quad copter on this trip. Above is our amazing beach house, formerly the island library, and a hotel of sorts in the 60’s. It is one of the best places I’ve rented in the last 10 years, with beautiful views, wonderful original wood floors, and plenty of space. ![Mt. Baker and the Three Sisters from the beach house](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Mt-Baker-and-Sisters-view-from-beach-house.jpg) Mt. Baker and the Three Sisters from the beach house ![Beach house from the air](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Beach-house-and-area-from-the-sky.jpg) Beach house from the air I always love the details you can see beneath the water from the quad copter. Above you can see some of the rocks that I was photographing earlier in the trip, along with even more down the beach. ![Ferry terminal from the air](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Ferry-terminal-from-the-road.jpg) Ferry terminal from the air You can see similar things from the air around the ferry terminal. Of course the sun has to be at the right angle, and the water has to be fairly clear and wind-free. ![Clubhouse](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Bay.jpg) The friends cabin is part of a grouping of houses that has a clubhouse and dock. I checked this out as a possible spot to anchor for a future trip, but it had some challenges. It’s not very protected except from the west, and the dock is too shallow for a sailboat to get close to. There are a couple of buoys further out, but they don’t look strong enough for a sailboat. Anchoring might be possible, but the protection… ![Portage Island and Bay](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Portage-Island-and-Bay.jpg) Across the channel is Portage Island, which at low tide has a spit that connects it to the mainland. There appears to be a pretty protected bay inside, which might be a potential spot to anchor. However, it would be a couple mile trip across the channel by dinghy to get to the cabin clubhouse, and then a long walk up the hill. I’d still like to visit Portage Island as the spit looks like a fantastic place to explore. ![Lummi Island looking south along eastern coastline](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Lummi-Island-looking-south.jpg) Along the south eastern point of the island is Inati Bay, which appears to be one of the only good anchorages on the entire island. The [Bellingham Yacht Club has an outstation there](http://byc.org/inati-bay/?ref=seabits.com), and they indicate that the shoreline is heavily restricted. In fact, if you look at a road map for Lummi Island, you will not see any roads even near the bay or at that end of the island. Much of it is a preserve, while the rest is privately owned. Overall the trip to Lummi was super fun – I love the small-island mentality and miss it from living on Vashon Island. I do not think it’s a great destination for sailors because of the lack of good anchorages and limited services. There are still tons of places to explore and experience, and I will definitely be going back again. One of my favorite land-trips in the last few years! ![The gang posing for our 80's album cover in front of the Lummi Island Church](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/20160529-untitled-77_DxO.jpg) The gang posing for our 80’s album cover in front of the Lummi Island Church ### Yacht Devices Text Display review URL: https://seabits.com/yacht-devices-text-display-review/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:46:36.000Z Power is something every captain agonizes over while away from the dock. Instruments, lights, refrigerator, autopilot, and everything else take a toll on battery capacity, especially while on anchor overnight. I had been searching for a simple instrument I could leave on all the time which would give me quick glance at NMEA 2000 network data while down below. The [Yacht Devices Text Display](http://www.yachtd.com/products/display.html?ref=seabits.com) fits that need almost perfectly, with a few improvements needed. # Specs ![Text Display YDTD-20N Power On](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Text-Display-YDTD-20N-Power-On.jpg) According to the manufacturer, the unit only draws 20mA of power, which is pretty miniscule. It can show the vessel’s position, course and speed, wind and weather data, water depth, log and trip distance, engine revolutions, batteries voltage, etc. The unit is about 3.5 inches wide and 1.5 inches tall, and sticks out just a bit more than 1/2 an inch. It has a 2-line display, each line having 16 characters, and adjustable brightness. # Installation ![Yacht Devices Text Display packaging](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display-package-content.jpg) The unit itself is very compact, and came with mounting bolts, template, and users manual. Installation requires 5 holes – one oversize hole for the NMEA 2000 cable, and four for the mounting bolts that screw in from the back. ![This traveled far!](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display-shipping-label.jpg) This traveled far! One challenge for some people will be the shipping – both the length and origin. My unit came from Kalingrad, Russia and took 2.5 weeks. In today’s world of Amazon Prime and overnight shipping, that can seem like an eternity. I would hope Yacht Devices looks into more regional warehousing or partnering with other vendors to get their product to more people faster. ![Yacht Devices Text Display Installed in Nav Panel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display-Installed-in-Nav-Panel.jpg) Once the unit is mounted and connected to your NMEA 2000 network, you’re ready to start configuring. # Configuration The user interface is pretty straightforward – long clicks and short clicks on the two buttons on the front of the unit are the primary method for changing the screen and entering menus, as well as changing brightness and cycling between different pages of data. ![Settings menu](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display-Menu.jpg) Once you’re in settings, you can scroll with the buttons and choose various things to adjust. ![Changing speed settings](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display-Unit-Settings-Speed.jpg) I came across a bug when I first installed the unit, and could not save my settings. After a quick email to Yacht Devices support, they confirmed within a day or two that it was a new bug, and in a few days more issued a firmware update! Talk about speedy service. Once that was fixed, I was able to set my preferences for depth, speed, temperature, and the like. ![Disabling a "page" ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display-Page-Off-Log-and-Trip.jpg) Besides changing values, you can choose which pages you want to display, which allows you to disable information you’re not interested in scrolling through. Once you’ve completed, a long click will save the values and exit the config menus. # Usage The primary use for me is quick access to key bits of data at the nav station down below. In particular, I like the wind and the water pages. ![Yacht Devices Text Display showing wind details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display.jpg) I often will be sitting below at a marina or anchorage and will hear the wind whipping through, and am curious how fast it is, direction, etc. The Text Display allows me to glance over and see that real time very quickly. ![Yacht Devices Text Display Water](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display-Water.jpg) Depth is also something I’m always worried about at anchor, which is easy to see on the Water page. You may notice the rather frigid water temperature – I’ve never figured out where this is coming from, and assume that my older Raymarine ST60+ depth sensor has a poorly calibrated sensor, or that it has something to do with the [Seatalk1 to NG conversion](https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/). ![Battery page](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display-Batteries.jpg) Here is one area that could use some additional configurability. While you can configure which pages show up, you can’t change the data on each page. Yacht Devices has chosen fixed data that shows up on each page, like the two battery banks above. I only have one battery bank on the network, so the second bit of data is empty, wastes a whole line of data. I would also love to see a timed advance for data pages so that they would scroll by. This would allow you to see all of the data you’re monitoring go by instead of having to click on buttons. Yacht Devices mentioned that they were going to be adding additional data pages in the future. I’d like to throw my vote in for [tank levels](https://seabits.com/better-tank-monitoring/), as this is one of the most difficult types of data to display anywhere. Most gateways like SignalK, Actisense, and Vesper do not translate tank levels, which means right now the only way I can see the level of my fresh water tank is to go outside to the Raymarine eS78 and flip to that page. # Conclusions ## Pros - Low power – 20mA! - Easy to use - Small - Quick data view - Fast updates - Low cost ## Cons - Mounting requires lots of holes for such a small device - No auto advance - Static data on pages not configurable I’m very happy with the device so far – it provides exactly what I wanted to monitor wind and depth without using much power, and I hope to see additional features and configuration in the future. ### Grace's integrated 5 part network URL: https://seabits.com/grace-integrated-5-part-network/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:48:41.000Z When I first purchased [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), she had no GPS, no chartplotter, and only a depth and wind sensor. Since then, as with [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), I’ve built several types of networks across her that gives me visibility into the various systems. I will be continuing to enhance the network over the next year to include more systems and deeper integration with things like SignalK and WiFi. The current system has five major network types with more than 20 devices, and allows interconnectivity and communication between all, but with some limitations and challenges. ![Grace's Network aGrace's Network as of May 2016](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Grace-Network-2016-05-25-v1.png) Grace’s Network as of May 2016 > I’ve updated my network to add a few new items, and improved some others – you can check it out at [Grace’s 2017 Network Update](https://seabits.com/graces-updated-network-2017). # The Goal There are several goals for having a network of this complexity on the boat: - Know the state of critical systems from as many places as possible - Allow device cross communication - Eliminate proprietary single-view displays - Use as many device features as possible Given my background as a network and systems administrator, this project was fairly easy for me to setup and implement, and I enjoyed it a lot. Average boaters may not have as complicated of a network unless they have a super yacht. However, I believe the lessons I’ve learned regarding interconnectivity, limits, and configuration are useful for others. # The Networks There are five major networks on Grace: - **SeaTalkNG** – newly installed, necessary for eS78 chart plotter and Evolution Autopilot - **SeaTalk1** – legacy for Raymarine ST60+ depth / wind instruments - **NMEA 2000** – cross connected to SeaTalkNG network, necessary for N2K capable devices - **MasterBus** – specific to MasterVolt DC power system components - **WiFi** – from the Pepwave router out to various devices ## SeaTalk1 ![Raymarine SeaTalkRaymarine SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkng converter kit](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/All-Components-1.jpg) Raymarine to SeaTalkng converter kit The SeaTalk1 network was necessary because of the existing Raymarine ST60+ depth and wind instruments. They work fine, and I don’t want to replace them until they have failed. To get these instruments onto my new SeaTalkNG/NMEA 2000 network, I needed the SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNG converter kit available from Raymarine [here](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=1597&ref=seabits.com). ![Seatalk NG to SeaSeatalk NG to Seatalk 1 converter cable 1m](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Seatalk-NG-to-Seatalk-1-converter-cable-1m-1.jpg) SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNG connector cable The key is the cable above, which connects to the back of the depth instrument, which in turn is connected to the wind instrument. This cable then connects to the converter block itself, to the yellow port, and converts the older protocol to something understandable on SeaTalkNG and NMEA 2000\. The converter block itself has some sort of chip and logic inside of it to do the conversion, and only supports specific NMEA sentences both directions. It has its own firmware and has been updated several times via my Raymarine eS78 chart plotter. ![SeaTalk1 to SeaTaSeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNG converter supported NMEA 2000 PGNs](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Screen-Shot-2016-05-26-at-9.59.01-AM-1.png) SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNG converter supported NMEA 2000 PGNs With all of this connected, depth & wind data is now present on the rest of the network, and the depth / wind instruments are also getting data from the NMEA 2000 network as well. You can see above the current list of PGN’s that are shared back and forth across the converter. ## SeaTalkNG I chose Raymarine instruments for Grace because she already had a Raymarine auto pilot, and wanted to have as much of an integrated system as possible. I struggled getting autopilot stuff to work with Jammy because of systems that were from different manufacturers. ![Raymarine EvolutiRaymarine Evolution EV-100 sail system](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/evolution-pic-1.jpg) I ended up updating the autopilot to the new [Evolution series EV-100 Sail package](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=6866&ref=seabits.com) which included the EV1 Sensor Core, ACU-100 control unit, and p70 display. It also came with a cabling kit which included enough lengths to get started, but I had to add some longer spur and backbone cables. My existing wheel pilot motor was getting old, but it was identical in size to this new mk2 version, so swapping it out was super easy, and required no drilling or cutting. Within a few hours of work, I had a more modern autopilot that was more accurate than the existing one, and that interfaced with other Raymarine devices better. ![Raymarine eS78 chRaymarine eS78 chart plotter](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Raymarine-eS78-chart-plotter.jpg) I chose an eS series chart plotter as my primary interface in the cockpit after looking at the full Raymarine line. The key decision factors were interface control and power consumption / size. The eS78 can be used both by touchscreen or via a wheel, which is a great way of mixing the technologies. I find that both work in different situations, and I would never want to be with just one – sometimes touch mode is frustrating. > I have updated to a Raymarine Axiom MFD and have more details about it in my [Raymarine Axiom and Lighthouse reviews](https://seabits.com/tag/axiom/). This completed the Raymarine portion of the network, other than a SeaTalkNG to NMEA 2000 cable that I made and connected to the NMEA 2000 backbone cable heading to the Navigation Station down below. Making one of these is as simple as lopping the end off of a SeaTalkNG spur or drop cable and adding the correct NMEA 2000 end. I bought my NMEA 2000 cable ends in bulk online – they are made by Maretron, and easy to install. ## NMEA 2000 The NMEA 2000 network is primarily behind the Navigation Station, since so many devices are mounted there. In addition, it runs forward to the v-berth for the Maretron tank adapter. ![Grace's NMEA 2000Grace's NMEA 2000 Network as of May 2016](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Grace-Network-2016-05-25-v1-NMEA-2000-Only.png) This part of the network is pretty standard – NMEA 2000 taps with drop cables to the individual devices. I am considering installing an [Actisense QNB-1](http://www.actisense.com/products/nmea-2000/qnb-1/qnb-1.html?ref=seabits.com) as I had on Jammy to reduce the overall space usage and consolidate some of the cabling. ![Behind the nav paBehind the nav panel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Grace-behind-nav-panel-wiring.jpg) Behind the nav panel – NMEA 2000 taps are at the very top of the picture in the back Most of the devices here are connected to share data to the rest of the network or be controlled remotely. I go into detail on each of them below. ![Navigation Panel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Grace-Navigation-Panel.jpg) ### Fusion Radio ![Raymarine chart pRaymarine chart plotter showing Fusion stereo controls](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Raymarine-display-showing-Fusion-Stereo-Showing-Song-1.png) The Raymarine eS78 has a great system for controlling Fusion radio products. Crew members will routinely reach over while we’re underway and flip to the Fusion screen to change songs, volume, etc. It is great to be able to skip songs, turn up the volume in one of our two zones, or quickly pause it if there’s something going on. With the R17 release of Raymarine’s software, there is even more control available – more on this in a future post. ### B&G VHF Radio ![B&G V50 VHF frontB&G V50 VHF front](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/BG-V50-VHF-front.jpg) The [B&G VHF radio](https://seabits.com/bg-v50-vhf-radio-h50-wireless-handset/) is connected so it can get coordinates from one of the GPS sources on the network, and send AIS data onto the network for others to consume. It is also supposed to forward DSC emergency call and I’ve seen it work once, but I’m not 100% sure if it’s all working together in harmony. ### Vesper XB-8000 AIS ![Vesper XB-8000](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Vesper-Marine-XB-8000.jpg) The Vesper XB-8000 Class B AIS transponder shares AIS data it’s seeing via the VHF antenna, and also dropping it’s GPS data from a dedicated antenna onto the network for others to use. My on board Raspberry Pi 3 linux system also connects to the Vesper via a TCP port and submits the AIS data to various AIS sharing sites as covered in [Services](https://seabits.com/services/). Other apps and systems also use this same TCP port to connect to for data over WiFi such as Coastal Explorer, SeaNavUS, iNavX, NMEAremote, and many others. ### Yacht Devices Text Display ![Yacht Devices TexYacht Devices Text Display showing wind details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Yacht-Devices-Text-Display.jpg) This is a fairly new addition to the network, and I am going to be writing more about it soon. It is great for showing a couple pieces of data all of the time at the Nav station. I can see it clearly from most of the salon, and can quickly glance over to see the depth, wind and other details without having to use my phone, go up above, or some other means. It sips power, and can display a number of helpful bits of info. ### Actisense NGT-1 & SignalK ![Analyzed output fAnalyzed output from the NMEA 2000 bus showing fresh water levels and battery voltages](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Grace-Raspberry-Pi-3-using-canboat.png) Analyzed output from the NMEA 2000 bus showing fresh water levels and battery voltages One of the most used parts of the network is my Raspberry Pi 3 Linux machine connected to the NMEA 2000 network via an [Actisense NGT-1 USB to NMEA 2000 adapter](http://www.actisense.com/products/nmea-2000/ngt-1/ngt-1.html?ref=seabits.com). From anywhere in the world, I can VPN in and access any of the data on the network. I have been testing [SignalK](https://seabits.com/tag/signalk/) on this system for quite some time, but I also routinely use Kees Verruijt’s [canboat](https://github.com/canboat/canboat?ref=seabits.com) software to look at raw data on the bus, or make it available to other systems using n2kd. This system will grow into being a key player on the network through SignalK and other custom scripts I’ve written. Examples include sending emails when bad conditions happen, interact with other non NMEA systems on the boat, and log data remotely about system performance. ### Maretron Tank Adapter ![Maretron ultrasonMaretron ultrasonic tank level monitor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/tank2-1.jpg) I [wrote about this device when I installed it on Jammy](https://seabits.com/better-tank-monitoring/), and after running out of water three times on various trips this last year, I decided it was time to install one on Grace. I can see the tank levels in multiple places, but the most useful is on the Raymarine chart plotter both while filling the tank, and to keep tabs on water in general. ![Raymarine chart pRaymarine chart plotter showing quick data panel overlay of water and battery details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Raymarine-Showing-Chart-with-Quick-Data-Pane-1.png) Raymarine chart plotter showing quick data panel overlay of water and battery details ## MasterBus MasterVolt has a proprietary CAT5 cabled network between all of its devices called [MasterBus](http://www.mastervolt.com/products/masterbus/?ref=seabits.com). I have a charger, shunt, fuse/distribution block, display, NMEA 2000 and USB interface devices on the MasterBus network. These devices communicate amongst themselves over MasterBus, and allow me to configure them from the display panel or via USB. ![MasterVolt NMEA 2MasterVolt NMEA 2000 interface](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/MasterVolt-NMEA-2000-interface.jpg) I chose MasterVolt because I wanted something very integrated and configurable. I am also using Firefly batteries, which require very specific charging profiles, something MasterVolt can provide. A dedicated article on my MasterVolt & Firefly experience is forthcoming. The biggest challenge was programming the above NMEA 2000 to MasterBus interface so that the data from the MasterBus side would be sent over to the NMEA 2000 network and show up on various displays. More on that in the article referenced above. ![Raymarine chart pRaymarine chart plotter showing battery bank details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Raymarine-Data-Page-Display-showing-Batteries-and-Fresh-Water-1.png) Even with the challenges, having the details on the battery bank are invaluable while driving outside at the cockpit station, or on a mobile device. This way I can keep an eye on things in case a crew member turns something on that could put the battery bank at risk, and also check on the charge state, battery temperature, and more. ## WiFi ![Peplink MAX BR1 rPeplink MAX BR1 router](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/peplink-max-br1-1.jpg) The final network is provided by my Peplink MAX BR1 router. It broadcasts two WiFi networks across the entire boat to allow wireless connectivity to devices, as well as access to other sites, and the Internet. It uses an external LTE antenna and amplifier for Internet connectivity. ![Peplink DashboardPeplink Dashboard](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Peplink-Dashboard.png) There are two WiFi networks – one for secure devices (named *brig* above) such as my computer, the Raspberry Pi 3, Raymarine chart plotter, Vesper AIS, etc. This network is also connected via VPN to my house so I can access boat data easily. There’s also a guest network (*brig-guest*) where visitors can connect and surf the ‘net, as well as access local resources such as SignalK through a firewall rule I’ve configured on the Pepwave. This allows guests to use their own apps and consume network data such as GPS location, wind, etc. without accessing the more sensitive parts of my network. The Peplink has proven to be the most reliable, configurable, and powerful device I’ve used on the boat for Internet and local WiFi in over 10 years. I plan on writing a more detailed review on how I have it setup soon. # The Power ![Maretron power taMaretron power tap](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/Maretron-power-tap-big-1-1.jpg) I also chose to do something I had on Jammy which was somewhat unique – two different power sources on the whole bus. This allows me to leave a portion of the bus on all of the time (everything to the left of the Maretron Power Tap in the Navigation Station box in the main diagram at the top of the post) so I can access it remotely when away from the boat, and record long term stats. The rest of the bus (everything to the right of the Power Tap) only comes on when the Instrument circuit is turned on, usually when we’re sailing / motoring. To do this, I connected only one half of the power wires for the Power Tap, and wired those to an always-on circuit. The other side of the bus is powered by the SeaTalkNG 5 port connector block in the cockpit station. # The Limits As with any complicated tech, there are some limits to be aware of. **Bridging technologies** – make sure that any proprietary network technologies have some sort of bridge, either to NMEA 2000 / 0183, or WiFi access of some sorts. For instance, my Balmar Smartgauge and [Stainless Lobster Fridge Optimizer](https://seabits.com/save-battery-beer-stainless-lobster-fridge-optimizer/) are both non-networked, and the data they contain is definitely something I’d love to have on my network. **Supported Data** – many display devices may not support all of the data on a NMEA 2000 network. Make sure you check that your chart plotter supports the NMEA PGN’s you are trying to display. I was surprised to find a very limited amount of PGN’s supported by my Raymarine eS78 chart plotter when it comes to power devices. It does not display any data from my charger or AC power source monitoring, available via the MasterVolt to NMEA 2000 converter. I’m hoping they will add it in the future. **Interconnectivity** – getting all of this stuff to play nice together is also sometimes a problem. Conflicting PGN’s or device ID’s is common, and sometimes manufacturers don’t provide an easy way of changing this. In many cases, you have to have special privileges on their equipment, which they are not very willing to give out to an end-user. # The Result ![Devices on Grace'Devices on Grace's NMEA network](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/06/NMEA-Devices-on-Graces-Network.png) Devices on Grace’s NMEA network The end result is that from anywhere, both on the boat and remotely via my phone, I can see the status of every critical system. I have become used to this visibility from Jammy’s network, and I plan on continuing to add and enhance things over time. I believe having this visibility allows me to relax more while out on the water, and also be more aware of my boat’s health. While I have a networking background, it doesn’t take that to put a network like this on your boat – the biggest challenge is the interconnectivity, and hopefully my documentation will help someone in the future wanting to overcome some of those limitations. ### B&G V50 VHF radio and H50 wireless handset URL: https://seabits.com/bg-v50-vhf-radio-h50-wireless-handset/ Last updated: 2026-03-25T00:58:22.000Z After last year’s [first official trip and a rescue](https://seabits.com/grace-first-official-trip-and-a-rescue/) where I spent almost 2 hours on the VHF radio with the Coast Guard, I made it a priority to upgrade Grace’s capabilities to be more safe and usable. That experience was early on in Grace’s life with me, and the VHF radio, cabling, and antenna were absolutely abysmal. I also wanted a DSC capable radio for my crew to use in case of an emergency because of it’s ease of use. > *Note: I no longer recommend this radio after having major issues with the wireless handset and scanning.* After a lot of thinking and considering, I ended up going with B&G’s V50 base along with an H50 wireless handset, a VHF splitter, and updated VHF antenna from Vesper. The VHF radio is extremely important on the boat. Besides being an important safety device, I also listen to it religiously when in Elliott Bay because of the sheer amount traffic going back and forth. Not being able to hear when the Washington State Ferries are departing various places around the bay makes me nervous. Grace had a functional VHF, but I couldn’t hear it from the cockpit at all. ![Original VHF radio](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/nav-station-close-up-1-1.jpg) Original VHF radio My first order of business was to check the VHF cabling from the radio to the mast itself. I found poorly installed push-on connectors at both ends which I immediately replaced with soldered connectors. That alone improved the quality of the transmissions on the existing VHF radio dramatically. Then I began my search for a replacement VHF radio and remote station. My primary criteria were: - Strong & powerful base unit - Wireless or thin wire remote station for cockpit - Easy to use – mainly for crew members in case of emergency - DSC capable (as if you can buy anything that isn’t nowadays) Secondary “nice to have” criteria were: - NMEA 2000 connectivity or stand alone GPS - AIS display / support iCOM is the favorite of my radio-geek friends, but it had features I didn’t need, and required a pretty thick cable run between the nav station and the cockpit, something that was really quite difficult with the current layout. I also have found their user interface to be somewhat confusing for a non-technical person – a concern when you have a crew member using the radio. I spent a number of hours in my local marine stores playing around with all of the different models available, trying their features, annoying the sales people, and generally learning as much about each one from a user experience perspective. If you go read spec sheets online for all of the major manufacturers, you won’t find that there’s much that differentiates one radio over another – the basic feature set is pretty similar for everyone. It’s the smaller user experience and design features that seem to set each apart. [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) had a Simrad RS35 VHF at one point, which is similar to the B&G model, but I ended up returning it after having a failed unit on initial install. After reading a bunch of reviews on the B&G solution, and talking to others who had the V50, I took the plunge and ordered the B&G V50 base station with the H50 handset. One of the key things that convinced me was that many people had said the B&G version had all of the bugs worked out of it that were present a few years ago in the Simrad offering. ## Equipment List The full equipment list is below: - [B&G V50 VHF radio](http://www.bandg.com/en-US/Products/V50-Fixed-Mount-VHF/?ref=seabits.com) - [B&G H50 wireless handset](http://www.bandg.com/en-US/Products/H50-Wireless-VHF-Handset/?ref=seabits.com) - [Vesper VHF/AIS/FM splitter](http://www.milltechmarine.com/Vesper-Marine-VHFAISFM-Antenna-Splitter%5Fp%5F225.html?ref=seabits.com) - [Vesper VHF & AIS antenna](http://www.milltechmarine.com/Vesper-Marine-AIS-Antenna%5Fp%5F284.html?ref=seabits.com) ## VHF Splitter While I would prefer to have a dedicated AIS antenna, real estate and cable runs don’t allow me to at this time. I also chose to use a matched antenna that is compatible not only with the splitter, but my existing Vesper XB-8000 AIS Class B transponder that I moved over from Jammy to Grace. ![vesper marine sp160 antenna splitter](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/vesper-marine-sp160-antenna-splitter.jpg) The splitter and antenna were easy parts of the install, and didn’t require much effort. Of course, I paid to have someone shimmy up the mast and swap out the old VHF antenna as I am terrified of heights! Longer term I would like to move the splitter away from some of the power wires in my nav station area, but for right now, the existing cable going to the mast is not long enough. ## Base Unit ![B&G V50 VHF front](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-V50-VHF-front.jpg) The V50 base unit is extremely well made with a huge, clear display, clearly labeled and easy to use buttons, and lots of nice twisty dials. I’ve had some VHF radios in recent years where to change channels it required push buttons – the old-school twisty dials for selecting channels, squelch, and volume are a nice thing to have. Buttons are clearly labeled, and not annoyingly used as “soft buttons” like many other manufacturers. This is when the function of a button changes depending on the screen you’re in. I’m fine with that sort of technology on complex devices that have tons of functions, but this is a VHF radio – it shouldn’t have a million options! I had a Standard Horizon radio on Jammy at one point, and the soft buttons always caused me one or two additional seconds of reading to ensure I was pressing the right thing. I’m glad B&G didn’t do that. Faster, quicker, easier user experience! The speaker is loud and clear, even at high volumes, and mounting the unit is easy. On the rear of the unit are the usual connectivity wires such as power, VHF antenna, NMEA 0183, external speaker, and a NMEA 2000 port. I connected power, VHF antenna, and NMEA 2000. I mentioned it above, but man is the screen a thing of beauty! Not only is the channel number super big and bold, but the quality of the display rivals every other unit I looked at. The resolution of the text and icons is really fine, and that means it’s easier to read from across the salon. ![Microphone](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/bg-v50-vhf-microphone.jpg) The mic for the main unit includes buttons to control volume and change channels or scan mode, and all are backlit, so they are easily identifiable at night. ## Wireless Remote Unit I can’t lie – one of the main reasons I went with this setup is the wireless H50 unit. Having the ability to hear and interact with the radio in the cockpit was the primary goal, but being able to move around anywhere on the boat with the wireless unit made it even more functional. The handset is extremely well built, sits in your hand naturally, and looks to be extremely weatherproof. The screen is very easy to read, and although there are no twisty dials, the buttons allow you to control everything remotely fairly easily. ![b&g h50 wireless vhf handset](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/bg-h50-wireless-vhf-handset.jpg) The speaker has proven to be more than loud enough even while we’re under motor and with the stereo on. There’s a big clip on the back so you can keep it secure while moving around, and a headphone port if you are in a super-noisy environment – I haven’t seen another VHF remote that has that feature. Some more detailed photos of the unit itself are below. ![Back of unit](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-back.jpg) Back of unit ![Bottom showing headphone port](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-bottom-headhphone-jack.jpg) Bottom showing headphone port ![Left side showing PTT button](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-left-side-PTT-button.jpg) Left side showing PTT button ![Right side showing volume buttons](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-right-side-volume-button.jpg) Right side showing volume buttons ![Top showing lit distress button](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-top-distress-button.jpg) Top showing lit distress button I chose to mount the H50 on my [recently installed NavPod](https://seabits.com/new-pedestal-guard-and-navpod/) right next to my chartplotter since I would mostly be using the unit docked in it’s charging cradle, and wanted it close to where I usually am sitting so I could hear and interact with it. The mounting base is an ingenious inductive charger as well as holder for the remote. ![B&G H50 wireless vhf handset charging base](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-charging-base.jpg) Charging base Three screws and a small hole for the power cable, and I had a cockpit VHF remote! ![B&G H50 wireless VHF handset mounted on NavPod near Raymarine eS78](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-VHF-handset-mounted-on-NavPod-near-Raymarine-eS78.jpg) While the base unit is a pretty cool piece of technology, the inductive charger seems to emit a high pitched squeal at certain times when it is charging. I can hear it pretty well if things are quiet, and it is annoying. Moving the handset around a bit in the cradle sometimes stops it, but not always. The other challenge with the wireless handset is the fact that it’s, well, wireless. There are delays in key presses on the handset for changing menu items that are small, but enough to bother me. Sometimes when channel scan is on, it’s hard to see the channel numbers scrolling by because it’s too fast for it to keep up with. My wired setup on Jammy (iCOM) had no delay at all. I suspect this is an artifact of the wireless side of things, and while slightly annoying, doesn’t compromise the ability to talk or receive communications. ## General Features Pretty much all DSC-capable VHF radios out there have a similar feature set, and B&G is no exception. All of the DSC options are available from individual station calling to broadcasts and the like. ![B&G H50 wireless VHF handset menus](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-VHF-handset-menus.jpg) Beyond the DSC-specific features, the system has a decent amount of customizability. You can enable/disable AIS options, change the way it alerts you, pick your favorite channels (see below for limits here) and much more. Coming from the king of options (iCOM) I didn’t feel that I was missing anything at all, and actually liked some of the options that B&G provided. ![B&G H50 wireless vhf handset menu options 2](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-menu-options-2.jpg) More menu options ## AIS Support While I didn’t purchase this unit for its AIS support, it has quite a robust set of features around that protocol in general. The base unit operates as an AIS receiver and can send that info out it’s NMEA 0183 or 2000 ports, which could be useful if you do not have an AIS transponder or receiver already. I already have a Vesper XB-8000, but I still let the B&G gather AIS data and dump it onto my NMEA 2000 network. In addition, you can mark and plot AIS targets, and see detailed information about targets on both the base unit and handset. ![B&G V50 VHF AIS target list and map](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-V50-VHF-AIS-target-list-and-map.jpg) AIS target list and map ![AIS target detail](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-V50-VHF-AIS-target-detail.jpg) AIS target detail ![Remote target list](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-AIS-list.jpg) Remote target list ![Remote target detail page 1](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-AIS-target-screen-1.jpg) ) Remote target detail page 1 ![Remote target detail page 2](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-H50-wireless-vhf-handset-AIS-target-screen-2.jpg) Remote target detail page 2 One note – when using the remote, if you click into a targets details, there are actually two screens of data. The unit will flip between those screens, which can sometimes be a bit confusing if you’re still reviewing the first screen, since there’s so much data to show. I would definitely recommend this unit to anyone without an AIS receiver as it’s a great 2 channel setup that can then provide that info out onto your 0183 or 2000 NMEA network for other devices to consume and display. There’s also a ton of alert and tracking features that I did not use, but that could be useful to someone without an MFD or network. ## Channel Scan Channel scan is something I rely on to monitor key channels while in high traffic areas. Channel 14 (vessel traffic services for Seattle), 69 (primary channel I communicate on with friends) and 78 (local marina traffic) are my top channels. I was surprised to learn that the B&G unit only allows 3 channels to be continuously scanned, along with the usual channel 9 and 16 for safety reasons. I’m not sure if it’s because of a limitation in the product or a design choice of some sorts, but it’s quite limited compared to other radios. My previous iCOM radio on Jammy would allow essentially an unlimited list of scanned favorite channels. However, even with this limitation, the B&G has a feature that I don’t think other folks do – continuous scanning even while listening to a conversation. I originally thought there was a problem with the radio, because every time it stopped on a channel with activity, the audio was a bit choppy. Then I realized that it was still actively scanning the other channels even while the audio from the channel with activity was ongoing. I don’t think I’ve seen another radio that does this, unless it’s in the background and not visible on the screen. While I think this is a differentiating feature, it’s also annoying. The audio breaks while it scans in the “background” and you’re listening to a conversation can be distracting. I’ve never not understood the conversation that is going on, but it’s still distracting. ## Performance I’ve had this setup now for about 3 months, and made several decent length trips using it to both listen and communicate with others. I also have been working on the boat at the dock a ton in the last few months, and always have the VHF on listening to the movements in the bay. So far I have been very impressed with it’s performance. I’m able to hear far more of the traffic than with the old setup, and I can hear it both in the cabin and the cockpit. Folks who I have done radio tests with hear me clearly, and I’m able to talk to people further away than before, although that is not a scientific test. A longer term test will obviously be a better indicator, and our upcoming week-long South Puget Sound trip will hopefully be an opportunity for that. So far, so good, though! ## Conclusions ![B&G V50 VHF AIS target detail](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/BG-V50-VHF-AIS-target-detail.jpg) ### Pros - Wireless remote with inductive charging - Large screen on base unit - Ease of use and well designed user experience - Continual scanning even while channel active ### Cons - Limited 3 channel scanning vs others with unlimited scanning - Gaps in sound while channel scanning - Delays with wireless when changing menu items - Squealing inductive charger > Note: I no longer recommend this radio after having major issues with the wireless handset and scanning. --- ## Archived Community Comments These comments were posted on the SeaBits forum before February 2026\. Scroll down to join the current discussion. 2 comments Paul@Paul1 July 24, 2024 Did you join the cable of the VHF and the AIS output from the splitter into the V50 VHF port? Steve Mitchell@steve↩ #2 July 24, 2024 I’m not sure I completely understand your question… The AIS splitter has a single input/connection for an antenna, and then dedicated outputs/connections for an AIS transponder, and a VHF radio. The connection from the splitter for the VHF radio went directly to the V50. ### Port Orchard weekend URL: https://seabits.com/port-orchard-weekend/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:51:36.000Z With the amazing weather continuing in Seattle, we wanted to find somewhere we hadn’t been in a while to spend Friday and Saturday night. A couple years ago on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) we stayed with Jo and Dick at [Port Orchard Marina](http://www.portofbremerton.org/portorchardmarina?ref=seabits.com), so Josh, JJ and I decided to try it again. I had the opportunity to play around with some of the new AIS and auto routing features from Raymarine, released in Lighthouse R15 and R16\. Everything worked well, and we had a fantastic time. We departed Elliott Bay Marina around 4:30PM for a 2 hour motor to Port Orchard – we wanted to arrive before it was too dark, and opted not to sail. Crossing Elliott Bay was OK, but once we got out into the channel, the wind was a steady 20 knots from the north gusting to almost 30 with at least 4 foot waves. We were headed across the channel almost directly west, so the waves were not our friends. It gave me the chance to see how Grace handles in a few new situations with the waves behind us. ![navionics trip planning to port orchard](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/01-navionics-trip-planning-to-port-orchard.png) Our route was pretty simple, and I used both the iPad ahead of time, and the auto routing in real-time on my Raymarine eS78 the entire weekend. While it was pretty good last weekend on our [trip to Bainbridge Island](https://seabits.com/back-to-winslow-wharf-bainbridge-island/), it was a bit more aggressive in it’s route this time around. It’s not showing in the screen above, but the eventual course went inside some buoys I didn’t like, as well as went in between Orchard Rocks and some rather permanent fishing barges. Overall, the auto routing feature is nice to initially setup a route, but I found it too aggressive with corners and turns near hazards, and all during some of the lowest tides of the season. The good thing about the Raymarine created auto routes is that you can move the waypoints, which I was able to do easily, and created a solution that I was happy with. Ben @ Panbo discussed some of the same concerns in his post on [Autorouting: Navionics new Dock-to-Dock kicks it up a big notch](http://www.panbo.com/archives/2015/12/autorouting%5Fnavionics%5Fnew%5Fdock-to-dock%5Fkicks%5Fit%5Fup%5Fa%5Fbig%5Fnotch.html?ref=seabits.com). ![WSF Hyak at Orchard Point headed to Bremerton through Rich Passage](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/wsf-hyak-at-orchard-point-headed-to-bremerton-through-rich-passage.jpg) WSF Hyak at Orchard Point headed to Bremerton through Rich Passage One of the fun parts of the transit to Port Orchard is Rich Passage. You get the opportunity to navigate through a very active tidal area, and usually get a visit or two from the Washington State Ferries that travel between [Seattle and Bremerton](http://www.wsdot.com/ferries/schedule/ScheduleDetail.aspx?departingterm=7&arrivingterm=4&roundtrip=true&ref=seabits.com)every 45 minutes or so. We met the [Hyak](http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/vesselwatch/vesseldetail.aspx?vessel%5Fid=13&ref=seabits.com) at Orchard Point, bound for Bremerton. She was at least the minimum 500 foot distance away, but it sure didn’t seem like it! I try to time entering Rich Passage at Orchard Point just when a ferry arrives, and after the Seattle-bound ferry has already exited, that way they get ahead of me in the passage, and I don’t have to pass one whilst inside myself. Once inside the passage, the waves and wind calmed down considerably, much to the appreciation of Josh and JJ. ![Josh able to enjoy a drink in the warm sun just East of Bremerton](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/01-port-orchard-weekend-josh-having-wine.jpg) Josh finally able to enjoy a drink in the warm sun just East of Bremerton The rest of the trip was uneventful, and we tied up at Port Orchard Marina just around 7PM and went out to dinner at [Amy’s on the Bay](http://www.amysonthebay.com/?ref=seabits.com). We had a great evening playing cards and the usual tomfoolery, and woke up the next morning ready to relax in the sun. ![Grace and the author after just arriving at Port Orchard Guest docks](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/01-port-orchard-marina-guest-dock-arrival-grace.png) Grace and the author after just arriving at Port Orchard Guest docks Shoreside, Port Orchard offers one of the best spots to walk along the waterfront that I can remember. Landscaping is immaculate and beautiful, and there are picnic tables, benches, and other spots to loiter. Nearby is a big parking lot for folks visiting the waterfront, and everything seems to slow down a bit compared to busy Seattle. There are nearby restaurants, coffee shops, bars, and a ton of antique places which we will be visiting again. On Saturday, we visited the [Port Orchard Farmer’s Market](http://www.pofarmersmarket.org/?ref=seabits.com), which had a lot of various stalls to choose from. Both Josh and JJ bought metal figures that were pretty cool. I forgot my camera, so no pictures of that fun! ![Port Orchard boardwalk and marina guest slips in background](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/02-port-orchard-sidewalk-and-flowers.jpg) Also nearby is [Milltech Marine](http://www.milltechmarine.com/?ref=seabits.com), where I’ve bought all of my [AIS](https://seabits.com/?s=ais) and VHF stuff since [2007](https://seabits.com/ais-receiver/). The store was closed on the weekend, but I did get to peek in the windows. I highly recommend if you are looking for anything AIS related that you check out their site – not only do they have a wide selection, but they stand behind what they sell, and will help you figure out any details. The Port Orchard Marina has both finger slips and a linear dock available for guest moorage. We chose to stay in a finger slip, since the wind was out of the north most of the weekend, and the linear dock offers little protection. ![Port Orchard Marina Map](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/PortOrchardMarinaMap-1-1.gif) One thing we noticed for the duration of our stay was the wind and wave action that affected us at the dock. The nearby foot ferry created the majority of the waves, and were sometimes significant enough to cause various items to tumble around the cabin or cockpit. The wind also was a factor, coming right down on Grace’s bow and causing lots of adjustments on the lines for the stay. During poor weather from the North or West, this would not be an ideal location. I grade a large part of my marina experience on the quality of the bathrooms and showers. Port Orchard’s bathrooms look like they have been remodeled recently and are very clean and well maintained. The showers have really big changing areas, and are also well maintained and clean. There’s nothing worse than arriving after a long passage to a shower that makes you want to shower after you shower. Our experience with the marina staff was excellent – checking in was a breeze on Saturday morning (we came in too late to do it on Friday, which I had pre-arranged) and everything was already in their system and ready based on my call ahead earlier in the week. The rest of Saturday was spent exploring the town including visiting [Moon Dogs Too](http://moondogstoo.com/?ref=seabits.com)for a late lunch and a drink. My parents stopped by for a couple hour visit – they live in Gig Harbor, and had never seen Grace. My dad can’t get around like he used to, and the tides were extreme, and the dock ramp was almost like climbing a ladder, so mom came down for the tour while JJ and Josh chatted with dad. ![Josh and Dad enjoying the sun](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/02-josh-and-dad-.png) Josh and Dad enjoying the sun That night we played more card games, and rushed around late at night trying to see the Aurora Borealis that everyone was talking about online, but the light pollution towards Bremerton made it impossible. ![Grace's cockpit with our evening lighting setup](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/02-port-orchard-grace-evening-lighting.jpg) Sunday dawned and our beautiful summer weather had been exchanged for grey skies and a bit of rain. ![Grey Sunday](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/03-grace-at-port-orchard-guest-docks.jpg) Most of the weekend, we were one of only 4-5 boats on the guest finger piers. There were a few other boats out on the linear moorage, but not many. When we’ve been here before, it’s been fairly open as well. ![Empty guest docks](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/03-port-orchard-empty-guest-docks-on-sunday.jpg) Grace’s view of the empty guest docks ![03 port orchard marina entrance sign](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/03-port-orchard-marina-entrance-sign.jpg) We motored out past Bremerton, and were again in competition with a ferry for a bit as we made our way towards Rich Passage. During this time the tide was changing, and we passed through some of the most dramatic tide rips I’ve ever felt just off the tip of Bremerton Marina. ![Washington State Ferry Kitsap and it's bow wake headed towards Bremerton](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/wsf-kitsap-bow-wake-headed-towards-bremerton.jpg) Washington State Ferry Kitsap and it’s bow wake headed towards Bremerton The tide was to our advantage in the passage – at one point we were moving along at almost 6 knots through the water, but GPS saw us at over 9 knots. Pretty fun! ![Raymarine MFD showing 3.5 knot advantage through the passage](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/03-raymarine-showing-3-knot-advantage.jpg) Raymarine MFD showing 3.5 knot advantage through the passage The tide was still quite low, so I adjusted some of my waypoints from the inbound trip even further out from shore just for safety’s sake. ![#9 marker in the passage with a low tide](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/03-rich-passage-marker.jpg) The WSF Kitsap passed us again right as we made the turn at Orchard Point, headed towards Seattle. Waters here were very confused and churning, slowing us at least a knot. ![WSF Kitsap headed back to Seattle](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/wsf-kitsap-headed-back-to-seattle.jpg) Shortly we could see home and our marina in the distance. Even on overcast days, the views towards Seattle are beautiful. ![Buoy and Seattle skyline near Bainbridge Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/buoy-and-seattle-skyline-near-bainbridge-island.jpg) We were rewarded with a pass by the bigger ferries going to and from Bainbridge Island. Can you tell I’m a ferry nerd? ![WSF Tacoma headed towards Bainbridge Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/wsf-tacoma-with-seattle-in-background.jpg) WSF Tacoma headed towards Bainbridge Island I spent quite a bit of time this weekend playing with the new AIS collision avoidance features [Raymarine announced in Lighthouse version 15](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=8291&ref=seabits.com#CollisionAvoidance). The change of symbols along with the interception zones really help in representing clearer dangers based on AIS data, combined with your boat speed and course. ![Raymarine AIS collision detection in action with the Cosco Americas](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/03-raymarine-ais-collision-detection-cosco-elliott-bay.jpg) Only a few minutes after crossing the channel, the AIS collision avoidance warned that I was going to have an issue with inbound containership Cosco America. The collision tracking is represented by two ship like red objects with the exclamation points on them. Normally you’d only see the ship shapes, and not the exclamation points – this is because I tagged the vessel to show warning alerts and alarms. As she got closer to us, those zones merged into one big red rectangle, indicating that if I continued my course and speed, we would likely collide inside that box. A few minutes after this screen shot, the actual AIS alarm went off in addition for a dangerous target, letting me know I needed to change something to avoid a collision. You’ll also notice that there’s another vessel off my port side that is showing a collision plot – this was a Washington State Ferry that was headed from Bainbridge to Seattle. They altered course shortly afterwards to pass behind the Cosco America and were no longer a danger to me. I really like what Raymarine has done to the iconography and usability of these features. So many other MFD’s and solutions out there have the AIS data, but display it in crazy ways, or only if there is an alarm. Raymarine chose to take that one step further and not only show you the types of ships moving around with different icons, but also plot more details about TCPA and other AIS data in a clear, meaningful way. I highly recommend taking a look at their web pages on how these features work. Ben @ Panbo wrote some thoughts around this set of features as well, available at [Raymarine AIS intercept graphics, better collision avoidance?](http://www.panbo.com/archives/2015/12/raymarine%5Fais%5Fintercept%5Fgraphics%5Fbetter%5Fcollision%5Favoidance.html?ref=seabits.com) ![Cosco America bow wave](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/03-cosco-america-bow-wave.jpg) Even though she was slowing as she entered Elliott Bay, bound for the container terminal, Cosco America’s wake was still considerable, as I had experienced many times before. JJ and Josh were below napping a bit, so I rushed around and secured everything I could. Unbeknownst to me, the forward hatch was locked open at about an inch. On approaching the waves, I chose to take them straight on, as they were really much larger than usual. The second wave hit us really hard, knocking things down all over the place, and water entered through the forward hatch into the entire v-berth. The worst of it was a 2 hour job to clean up all of the water in tiny places, as well as air out the cushions. Lesson learned on looking at the hatches more closely. ![Cruise ships back already at Elliott Bay?](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/03-elliott-bay-marina-cruise-ship-princess.jpg) Right outside the entrance to our marina we saw the familiar sight of a cruise ship – the Ruby Princess. Seems that these start earlier and earlier every year – at least there was not one tied up at the close side of the pier, as is usual in summer. ![Grace back at her slip in Elliott Bay Marina](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/03-grace-back-at-her-slip-in-elliott-bay-marina.jpg) It was a very relaxing weekend in Port Orchard. I got to see a lot of ferries close up, spent some time playing with Raymarine features, and the guys had a great time with our usual exploring and activities. Port Orchard’s guest docks are really nice, and seem to be empty most of the time. Combine that with a wonderful walking path, nearby restaurants, and clean bathrooms, and it’s a great destination nearby Seattle. ### Back to Winslow Wharf and Bainbridge Island URL: https://seabits.com/back-to-winslow-wharf-bainbridge-island/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:52:44.000Z After our first trip of 2016 a week or so ago [around Elliott Bay](https://seabits.com/evening-elliott-bay/), it was time for an overnight to one of our favorite places, [Winslow Wharf Marina](http://winslowwharf.com/?ref=seabits.com) on Bainbridge Island. We spent a lot of time there this last year, and love everything about it. This was also [Grace’s](https://seabits.com/grace/) first time out with the new Firefly battery bank which I will be writing about soon, and an additional set of tests and trials on everything else installed this winter. JJ and I departed Elliott Bay Marina around 11am on Saturday, looking forward to a relaxing sail to Winslow, only a few miles away. ![Mainsail with weird leech line issue](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/grace-mainsail-on-way-to-winslow-wharf-marina.jpg) One thing that has been bothering me since Grace became part of our family last year is the mainsail. As you can see in this picture, the leech line appears to be twisted or overly tight. Just over a foot above the outhaul, there’s a jam cleat where the leech line ends, and there’s no spare line to let out. The upper portion and other areas are also equally tight, so I have yet to be able to figure out how to release the tension. I am woe to let the one end go for fear that it will get sucked up inside never to return. In addition to the leech problems, the sail in general never looks as balanced and full as I would like, and requires a lot more main sheet hauling than I’d like. It seems that these mainsails are quite large based on the design by Beneteau, and in many cases people reef when the wind hits 20 kts, so I’m wondering if there are some additional tricks and tips I need to learn about the overall sail handling for the main. ![matson ship and seattle in background on way to winslow wharf marina](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/matson-ship-and-seattle-in-background-on-way-to-winslow-wharf-marina.jpg) There was a decent amount of commercial traffic during our sail, including various cargo and container ships, as well as the usual ferries going to and from Coleman Dock to Bainbridge Island and Bremerton. ![Grace's course from our DeLorme inReach Explorer](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/Screen-Shot-2016-05-03-at-4.34.17-PM-1-1.png) Saturday we spent most of our time sailing around up northward a bit, and then down near Blake Island. We did see a number of sailboats out on the water later in the day, including the beautiful one below. ![sailboat spinnaker on way to winslow wharf marina](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/sailboat-spinnaker-on-way-to-winslow-wharf-marina.jpg) There was not much wind for the majority of the time we were on the water, until we decided to motor in to Eagle Harbor – of course right then it started blowing more! ![Entrance to Eagle Harbor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/entrance-to-eagle-harbor.jpg) I believe that I have been in to Eagle Harbor more than anywhere else in Puget Sound, save my home marina. Even before I moved to Elliott Bay Marina, it was one of my favorite places because of the views and nearby town and facilities. I’ve also seen more boats aground here than anywhere else – I always advise folks who have never been to look closely at their charts, and don’t cut that last corner at low tide before the green buoy in front of the ferry dock! It’s scary heading so close to them, but you’ll regret it if you don’t! I also always try to time my passage through the main part of the outer channel when a ferry is not coming or going, as they have the right of way of the deeper part of the channel, and it can get a bit close for comfort even if you are in the shallows. I also wonder how many tourists have photos of my boat with the Seattle skyline in the background… ![So many ferries! Pictured here are the Hiyu, Tillikum, Kaleetan and Evergreen State](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/eagle-harbor-ferries-hiyu-tillikum-evergreen-state-and-kaleetan.jpg) Eagle Harbor is Washington State Ferries maintenance facility, and there are usually a couple of ferries here being maintained. I’m a super huge ferry nerd, so imagine my delight at finding **6 different ferries** in the harbor – the most I can remember ever seeing! In all, the Hiyu, Tillikum, Kaleetan, Evergreen State, Salish and Yakima were all here. The Hiyu is a personal favorite, having spent much of my childhood on Vashon Island, and having fond memories of riding the tiny ferry between Pt. Defiance in Tacoma and Fauntleroy on Vashon Island. It’s the one in the picture above to the very right, a bit hard to see. ![Ferries Yakima and Salish in Eagle Harbor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/eagle-harbor-ferries-yakima-and-salish.jpg) It was also pretty cool to see the Yakima and Kaleetan, both Super Class ferries, together in one spot. I witnessed the [Yakima being towed away from Friday Harbor](https://twitter.com/stevepmitchell/status/707333750330421248?ref=seabits.com)while visiting back in March when it’s electrical panel went up in smoke. It was also a little sad to see the Evergreen State, which was the first in it’s class, now retired, with the Tillikum nearby, also likely to be retired in the next few years. If you want to learn more about the current and retired fleet, I **highly recommend**[EvergreenFleet.com](http://www.evergreenfleet.com/index.html?ref=seabits.com). The rest of the day we spent walking around town, eating a wonderful dinner at our favorite restaurant, Doc’s, and playing cards late into the evening in the cockpit. ![OCD quarter organization](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/IMG_3081_DxO.jpg) OCD quarter organization The next day, we were back at Doc’s for the chicken fried steak before departing around 11 am. This is hands down the best thing they make… ![Blakeley Rocks with Bainbridge Ferries in background and Seattle](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/blakely-rocks-with-bainbridge-ferries-and-seattle.jpg) Blakely Rocks with Bainbridge Ferries in background and Seattle Sunday was even warmer and more beautiful than Saturday, and the wind was much more brisk as well. We were greeted by a couple of passing ferries as soon as we exited the channel out of the harbor, and headed down towards Blake Island. ![Blake Island with Argosy boat and Mt. Rainier](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/blake-island-and-marina-with-argosy-boat-and-mt-rainier.jpg) Blake Island with Argosy boat and Mt. Rainier The views were stunning, as usual. The wind was now steady at about 16 kts and gusting to 20+ so we decided to motor around behind Blake to see if a mooring ball was available so we could take a nap and generally be lazy. Looks like we were not the only ones to have that idea, as they were all full. We circumnavigated the entire island, and found one on the south side of the marina spit but lost our boat hook trying to grab it! Already being tired from a long day before, we decided to motor back to Elliott Bay. JJ went below for a nap, while I used the auto routing feature on the Raymarine to get us home. I had been using this most of the weekend with pretty good success. The trip across the channel was pretty lumpy – more so than I expected. Wind was steady at 20 kts gusting to 25, and the waves were stacking up as they usually do between Alki Point and Bainbridge due to the fetch from the north. Everything got a nice coating of salt water, and it was pretty fun! ![The Golden Hour](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/elliott-bay-marina-with-still-water-golden-hour.jpg) After docking, we enjoyed an evening of almost completely calm water and relaxing views. ![A fantastic sunset](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/05/elliott-bay-marina-sunset.jpg) By 9PM everything had been wrapped up and we enjoyed a fantastic sunset. All of Grace’s systems worked as expected, with only a few new tweaks – and a new boat hook – needed prior to longer trips coming up. It’s great to be able to take short trips to Eagle Harbor without tons of extra voyage planning, and just enjoying the sail. I’m sure we will do more of these this year, but we’re also planning some much longer trips as well! ### Evening in Elliott Bay URL: https://seabits.com/evening-elliott-bay/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:53:53.000Z Our first real trip in 2016 was a last minute affair thrown together by Josh for some of our closest friends. After a week of amazing weather including temperatures in the 80’s, we decided to do an evening sail/motor around our home marina in Elliott Bay and take advantage of the weather. We were rewarded with warm breezes, only one or two other boats, porpoises, and a magnificent sunset. Our trip started out with a nervous captain (me) hoping that everything I had done in the winter was still holding together, and that there wouldn’t be any issues with our first trip out. Leaving the dock was uneventful, although [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) exhibited a more pronounced than usual slowness in backing and turning, as I expected with growth on the hull. There was not a breath of wind for us to take advantage of, so we motored over towards downtown Seattle. This was the first trip out using the new Raymarine Evolution autopilot, and other systems like the wireless B&G VHF handset. Everything worked perfectly, and required no tweaking at all. The autopilot really impressed me as it followed all of the routes and waypoints I was inputting on the MFD, made course changes, and did everything I expected it to do with clear notifications and accuracy. ![grace navpod with motor boat and seattle in the distance](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/grace-navpod-with-motor-boat-and-seattle-in-the-distance.jpg) Of course we couldn’t avoid taking a few pictures with the famous Seattle skyline in the background. ![josh with space needle](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/josh-with-space-needle.jpg) Josh with the Space Needle ![Jake with the Space Needle coming out of his head](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/jake-with-space-needle-in-his-head.jpg) Jake with the Space Needle coming out of his head We passed by [Bell Harbor Marina](https://www.portseattle.org/Marinas/Bell-Harbor-Marina/Pages/default.aspx?ref=seabits.com) and the [Clipper Around the World Race](https://www.clipperroundtheworld.com/?ref=seabits.com) boats looking beautiful and ready for visitors. After reaching the aquarium, we turned away from the city to avoid Coleman Dock and the Washington State Ferries, and headed over towards Alki Point and beach. ![downtown seattle and aquarium from the sailboat](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/downtown-seattle-and-aquarium-from-the-sailboat.jpg) Downtown Seattle and the Seattle Aquarium A friend took a photo of us from his office in downtown – we’re the tiny speck you see just this side of the ferry! There really were no other pleasure boats out besides us. ![grace from downtown](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/grace-from-downtown.jpg) We made our way around Duwamish Head and down along [Alki beach](http://www.seattle.gov/parks/park%5Fdetail.asp?ID=445&ref=seabits.com), gazing at folks in the surf, lines of cars on the road, and thinking about how we could get [Spud’s fish and chips](http://spudfishandchips.com/?ref=seabits.com#about). Josh served dinner about this time, which was various fun things from Specialties including tiny square sandwiches, grapes and cheese, and more. ![alki point lighthouse](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/alki-point-lighthouse.jpg) We passed around [Alki Point Lighthouse](http://www.lighthousefriends.com/light.asp?ID=112&ref=seabits.com) and started seeing a lot of activity on the surface of the water. After a few minutes, we spied what we believe to be harbor porpoises surfacing. We bobbed around for a long while with them circling us, and then started to head back towards the marina slowly so we could catch the sunset. The porpoises followed us for a while, to the delight of everyone. ![elliott bay evening motor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/elliott-bay-evening-motor-1-1.gif) Josh at the helm with the rest of the crew This was my first trip with my new [DeLorme inReach Explorer](http://www.inreachdelorme.com/product-info/inreach-explorer.php?ref=seabits.com). I had been a SPOT customer since early 2008, back to their original device, but their support and lack of additional features had me looking around for alternatives when my subscription expired this year. DeLorme has gotten great reviews from many other friends, and I liked both the maps and tracking frequency, and the ability to pair it with a phone and send text messages other than the “I’m OK” prebuilt messages. I’m going to do a more in-depth dive into some features at some point, but I was happy to be able to simply start tracking, and sharing my info with folks on land. ![Overview of our course via DeLorme inReach Explorer](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/delorme-inreach-explorer-map-overview.png) Overview of our course via DeLorme inReach Explorer ![delorme inreach explorer trip details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/delorme-inreach-explorer-trip-details-1-1.png) All told we ended up going about 10 nautical miles in about 3 hours. Not the fastest trip in the world, but the crew enjoyed it! ![josh with sun getting ready to set](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/josh-with-sun-getting-ready-to-set.jpg) The sunset was absolutely stunning, and we all have hundreds of landscape photos that no one will ever want to see, but I’m still posting a couple here. One of our favorite things to see with guests is the sunset when it hits the buildings of the downtown Seattle skyline. We were not disappointed! ![seattle skyline golden hour light](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/seattle-skyline-golden-hour-light.jpg) There was a recurring theme discussed on board all evening about how beautiful a place we live in, and mother nature didn’t disappoint. It’s one of the reasons I love living here myself, and will never leave! ![sun about to set behind olympic mountains and bainbridge island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/sun-about-to-set-behind-olympic-mountains-and-bainbridge-island.jpg) Sun setting behind Bainbridge Island and the Olympic Mountains The trip back got a little cold for some, but we were at the marina dock about 9PM and everyone was on their way home safely, relaxed from the trip and ready for bed. ![sun finally set over bainbridge island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/sun-finally-set-over-bainbridge-island.jpg) All in all a good first motor trip for the season, with many more to come. I’m glad everything worked as expected, and am looking forward to using the new systems added since last year on longer trips. ### Mantus Snap-On light is perfect for the cockpit URL: https://seabits.com/mantus-snap-light-perfect-cockpit/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:55:17.000Z I am perpetually looking for better lights for [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), both inside and out. Many of them are either too bright, the wrong color light, or require too much wiring to install. I stumbled across the [Mantus Snap-On Light](http://www.mantusanchors.com/mantus-snap-on-light/?ref=seabits.com) randomly a few months ago and love the portability, easy install, and light quality that it provides. ![Mantus Snap-On Light Front](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/Mantus-Snap-On-Light-Front.jpg) Front of light The Mantus Snap-On is a rechargeable, rail mounted device that provides multi-level white and red light. It’s solidly built, the upper part being made of aluminum and plastic, and has a glowing power button on the front depending on the light setting. The charge port on the back is waterproof and covered with a removable plug. ![Mantus Snap-On Light Charging Port](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/Mantus-Snap-On-Light-Charging-Port.jpg) Charge door with waterproof plug installed The light charges pretty quickly when completely depleted, and the power light will go from red to green to let you know it’s ready for use and fully charged. It can be charged via any standard USB charger with a micro-USB cable. That means one less proprietary charger to carry around on the boat. ![Mantus Snap-On Light Mounted Rail](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/Mantus-Snap-On-Light-Mounted-Rail.jpg) The light attaches very securely to a rail, and comes in three diameters – 7/8″, 1″, and 1 1/4″. The attachment system is a double ratchet of sorts, and is so tight that you can’t rotate the light on the rail without releasing it. ![Mantus Snap-On Light Mounted Above Light On](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/Mantus-Snap-On-Light-Mounted-Above-Light-On.jpg) The best part about the light is the quality and warmth of the light itself. It appears that Mantus is using a single LED (most likely CREE if I were to guess) and have provided a diffused lens that makes it a nice warm, non-LED glow – specs say 2700k for the color temp. Many other lights I’ve tested and used have been harsh colors, very focused beam angles, and generally functional but not comfortable. One of these in the center of Grace’s cockpit area provides great light all throughout. With two on opposite sides of the awning, I can work on projects all throughout with clear visibility. The light is powered by a 3.7V 2700mAH rechargeable lithium-polymer battery, and is designed to be IPX5-level waterproof and survive decent drops. You can charge other devices off of the big battery, although I’m not sure how useful that function is. The more useful feature is the two levels of red that you can leverage for night vision. ![Mantus Snap-On Light Mounted Above](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/Mantus-Snap-On-Light-Mounted-Above.jpg) In the last few months of use, a single charge has provided multiple overnight uses. I move them around to different areas depending on what sort of activities we’re doing, and have had comments about how nice the light is. We love playing cards and hanging out late into the nights in the cockpit, so these will get a lot of use this summer and years into the future. I liked them so much I purchased two! ### Halogen light replacement with CREE LEDs URL: https://seabits.com/halogen-light-replacement-cree-leds/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T01:57:20.000Z Light on [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) is very important to me, but so is battery capacity. She came with standard halogen lights which output extra bright light, but are not power friendly and get hot very quickly. After a bunch of experimentation and different manufacturers, I’ve settled on a replacement bulb that has a single CREE LED on it from SuperBrightLEDs.com, plus a couple from MarineBeam.com that help with night vision. LED light replacements are pretty common on boats nowadays. In fact, on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/) I replaced all of her original fixtures with LED capable lights over the 11 years I owned her. At that time, LED replacement bulbs were either not available, or very unreliable, so fixture replacements was my only option. It was very expensive and time consuming. ![Aqua Signal light off](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/Aqua-Signal-light-off.jpg) Beneteau used Aqua Signal halogen lamps when they built [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), each containing a G4 halogen 20W bulb. The fixtures were all in great condition, so rather than trying to replace the whole fixture, I sought out options for the bulb only. After some cursory searches, I found a ton of options for LED G4-style bulbs. My first experimentation was with [MarineBeam](http://marinebeam.com/?ref=seabits.com) LED lights recommended by folks on various forums. The quality of light was very bright, and in the case of my main cabin area, too bright for visitors. I had multiple complaints of the harshness of the light, and people immediately identified it as LED even though it was still warm-ish. Additionally, the cost per unit for some of these lights was pretty high at $15-22. I did install two [red/white switchable LED lights](https://store.marinebeam.com/g4-led-bulb-dual-color-red-white-switchable/?ref=seabits.com) from MarineBeam — one in the head, and one in the galley, for $22 each. These lights start out red when first turned on, and if cycled quickly, flip back to white. While the white is still too harsh for my liking, the red feature is convenient for evenings and when night vision is important. These lights have been heavily used the last year at night to let folks find their way around the boat. I still wanted a warmer light in the cabin areas, and started looking around for alternatives. Most of the marine LED options had warm white options, but I was suspicious of the quality of light given the number of the LEDs on their lights, and the LED manufacturer. I had gone through almost 3 years of experimentation at home for LED strips and bulbs, trying all sorts of different manufacturers and types of LEDs to get similar warm light. I ended up buying a number of different types of lights from [SuperBrightLEDs.com](http://superbrightleds.com/?ref=seabits.com) and loved the quality of information they include on each light on their website. In particular, they list the color temperature, amperage draw, LED manufacturer, and a lot more useful information that can help make a decision easier. I found that they had a G4-style light listed on their site, and after reading through the specifications, decided to order a few. ![CREE LED light packaging](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/CREE-LED-light-packaging.jpg) The unit I ordered was part number [G4-WW1W-DAC](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-bi-pin/g4-led-bulb-1-watt-15-watt-equivalent-bi-pin-led-disc-white-hh/484/?ref=seabits.com) at a cost of $5.95 each. They came in individual static bags. What attracted me most to them was that they had a single CREE LED, which I had used at home for other purposes, and found it to have a great quality of light. ![CREE LED light up close](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/CREE-LED-light-up-close.jpg) The light itself is very well made, and has a single CREE LED right in the middle, and two lengthy pins that can be cut down to fit. I had to cut off about 1/2 of the total length for them to fit in my fixtures. The specs say they use a constant power driver, which is critical on the boat where the voltage will vary depending on whether you’re on dock power, charging, running the motor, or completely on battery power. This is an area that some folks overlook, and end up getting cheap LEDs that fry themselves the moment the voltage goes outside a specific range. These units are good for 10-30V DC, which is a perfect for the boat. ![Aqua Signal light with CREE LED super close](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/Aqua-Signal-light-with-CREE-LED-super-close.jpg) The quality and warmth of the light is what I was most interested in, and I was not disappointed. The specs say that the color temperature was 3100K, and it has proven to be very warm and comforting – even better than the original halogens. The single CREE LED has a 90 degree beam angle, which is more than enough to spread out the warm light and not focus in one place as many LEDs do. ![Aqua Signal light with CREE LED two lights](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/04/Aqua-Signal-light-with-CREE-LED-two-lights.jpg) Overall power usage per bulb is about 1 watt, which is far less than the 20 watt halogen bulbs originally installed. And they do not get surface-of-the-sun hot! All told I replaced one in the v-berth, three in the main salon, and four in the owners cabin with the SuperBrightLEDs model for a total of $47.60\. As mentioned above, I replaced the head and galley lights with red/white lights for night vision which cost $22 each, for a total of $44\. I may replace one or more of those with this warmer model depending on crew feedback this season. I believe LED light replacements are one of the best and first things any new owner should do for power savings and longevity. LED replacement bulbs are inexpensive and readily available at many places, and you do not need high-priced “marine” versions as long as they have decent quality LEDs, and constant drivers. The next project on Grace is LED RGBW strip lights in various places for ambient light everywhere, all controlled by a central controller and Amazon Echo. ### Sending AIS data to multiple servers over a limited cellular link URL: https://seabits.com/sending-ais-data-slow-cellular-link/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:00:29.000Z [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) has an LTE cellular link to the outside world, along with a [Vesper XB-8000 AIS Class B transponder](http://www.vespermarine.com/xb8000-ais-transponder.html/?ref=seabits.com) that I purchased from [Milltech Marine](http://www.milltechmarine.com/?ref=seabits.com), my favorite AIS shop. Using a Raspberry Pi B on board, and [aisdispatcher](http://www.aishub.net/aisdispatcher-description.php?ref=seabits.com) software, you’re able to gather real-time AIS data from the XB-8000, but sending it out to multiple locations will use double, triple or even more data on a limited LTE connection…. Using my skills from my day job at a [big networking company](https://seabits.com/about/), and my systems administration background, I set to try to reduce the amount of data I was sending out of my LTE connection. ![Peplink MAX BR1 rPeplink MAX BR1 router](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/peplink-max-br1-1.jpg) Grace’s connection is provided by a [Peplink MAX BR1](http://www.peplink.com/products/max-cellular-router/single-cellular/?ref=seabits.com#br1) router which has an integrated LTE modem, dual SIM cards, two LTE antennas, one WiFi antenna, and a GPS antenna. In addition, it has two LAN ports and a WAN port, and has a great wiring block for 10V-30V DC input power. I’ve had tons of Internet devices on the boat for the last 10 years, including the Ubiquiti Bullet, WirieAP, Mikrotik router, AT&T and Verizon MiFi’s, plus many more. None have worked as perfectly as the Peplink — so perfectly that I’ve had it running for over a year, and have two bigger systems at home and at a remote vacation home, all connected together via VPN’s. Peplink has a ton of features in such a small box. You get very powerful radios, along with dual SIM support in case you need to switch providers or deal with data limits. On top of that, they have a very secure and feature full network stack, VPN server, and options to deal with various types of Internet connections. ![Screen Shot 2016-Screen Shot 2016-03-22 at 10.06.56 PM](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/Screen-Shot-2016-03-22-at-10.06.56-PM.png) I have a WiFi booster device connected to the WAN port of the Peplink, but the WiFi networks nearby my marina aren’t that great. When they are working, I don’t worry about the data I’m using. Most of the time, I use the LTE connection as you see above in the screen shot. I’m sending my AIS data to a minimum of 4 different sources including MarineTraffic, AIShub, and more — you can see what data I contribute on [Services](https://seabits.com/services/) — and sending all of those would blow through my monthly 40GB LTE data limit. # Network Setup ![AIS network diagrAIS network diagram from Grace](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/AIS-network-diagram-from-Grace.png) The diagram above is a simplified view of my Boat and Home networks, showing the relevant AIS pieces. - **grace** – a Raspberry Pi B connected to the boat network, using a network connection to communicate with the Vesper XB-8000 “vesper”. - **boat** – Pepwave MAX BR1 router providing local WiFi network and connecting to AT&T LTE for internet connectivity. Firewall, DHCP, VPN, and other services are also here. - **vesper** – the AIS Class B transponder, reachable via WiFi on the local boat network. - **home** – Pepwave Balance One router at home, connected to my local ISP with a 1 gigabit ethernet connection. Similar network services to the boat router run here. - **ais** – a Raspberry Pi B connected to the home network that is receiving all of the AIS data from grace. The Raspberry Pi B is responsible for connecting over the local network on the boat to the XB-8000 using [aisdispatcher](http://www.aishub.net/aisdispatcher-linux.php?ref=seabits.com) software. You can use this software to connect to a remote TCP port, read the AIS data, and send it off to different AIS servers. I’m using the following command to grab the data off of the Vesper: `aisdispatcher -t -h vesper -p 39150 -H ais:6666 -v -D 60` To dissect the above: `-t` TCP client mode `-h vesper` remote host to get data from (the XB-8000) `-p 39150` TCP port to connect to on the XB-8000 `-H ais:6666` remote host to send translated data to (home server) `-v` dispatch VDM (AIS) messages only `-D 60` downsample 60 seconds # Step 1 – Downsampling / Reducing Messages The first step to reduce the data is to use [aisdispatcher](http://www.aishub.net/aisdispatcher-linux.php?ref=seabits.com) to down sample the amount of data being sent out. That’s the `-D 60` setting above. It reduces the frequency of updates for systems who aren’t updating their position that often, but still sends valid frequent updates. The second part of reducing data is to only send [AIS related VDM ](http://catb.org/gpsd/AIVDM.html?ref=seabits.com)messages, which is option `-v`. Vesper not only sends out AIS messages, but GPS updates from it’s attached GPS, and NMEA 2000 bus data for all other devices, which isn’t useful to send off the boat over the limited data connection. # Step 2 – Sending off Boat … The VPN The second thing I chose to do was to send only one copy of the data off the boat, and have a remote server receive it (the “ais” system at home), and then send it along to 4 other destinations. The key to making this work is the [Pepwave PepVPN](http://www.peplink.com/technology/pepvpn/?ref=seabits.com) connection between the boat and home. The boat’s IP address changes constantly, and the LTE connection can go up and down, so having a more stable connection at home is key. I do not have a static IP address at home, but I do use DNS-o-matic to register my current IP address as a DNS entry so that the boat can always look to connect to “home” and will always find the most current address. ![Grace PepVPN connGrace PepVPN connection to home for AIS data](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/Grace-PepVPN-connection-to-home-for-AIS-data.png) Pepwave’s VPN is one of the easiest and most reliable VPN solutions I’ve ever used. I have used OpenVPN for other needs, and much prefer that for system-to-system connections, but for network-to-network connections, PepVPN has impressed me continually at the options and flexibility it has. Combine that with failover from LTE to WiFi, and in the case of my home connection, multiple LAN ports, and it provides a very redundant setup. # Step 3 – Sending to Multiple Locations Now that the VPN is established, we can send the data from “grace” to “ais” securely, one time, and let the “ais” system send it out elsewhere. This is done via the `-H ais:6666` command from the boat system, which is sending a single stream of the data from the boat to home. The “ais” server is running the following command: `perl udp.pl 6666 | aisdispatcher-x86_64 -i -H marinetraffic:1234,aishub:1234....` Breaking the above down: `perl udp.pl 6666` A custom perl script that listens for UDP traffic on port 6666 and then sends it via the pipe command to the next one below. This port matches the boat’s setting sending out the parsed and downsampled traffic to port 666 on “ais”. `aisdispatcher-x86_64 -i -H marinetraffic:1234,aishub:1234....` This is the same aisdispatcher software used on the boat, but is not translating anything since it already was done on the boat. It simply accepts the input from the boat single stream, and splits it into 4 different streams (or more) out to various services. Since my bandwidth at home is much faster and not capped, it’s much better to send that out from here. The perl script looks like this, found somewhere on the Internet and modified a bit to simplify. It simply waits for UDP traffic on the port number specified and grabs it off the network. ``` #!/usr/bin/perl ## udp.pl - listen on UDP port and dump out whatever has been received use strict; use warnings; use Socket; die "Usage: udp.pl " if (!defined($ARGV[0])); socket(UDP, PF_INET, SOCK_DGRAM, getprotobyname("udp")); bind(UDP, sockaddr_in($ARGV[0], INADDR_ANY)); print $_ while (); ``` # Wrap Up Even if your routers do not have a VPN functionality, chances are you can use 3rd party firmware like ASUSwrt merlin, OpenWRT, DD-WRT or Tomato to add it. Or you can look at both Pepwave and Ubiquiti, who offer products only slightly more expensive that are basically consumer-professional or prosumer grade. These products often have robust features and configuration that will help with a VPN, and also great remote and monitoring features a home router just wouldn’t have. Even without routers that support this, you could set up an [OpenVPN tunnel](https://openvpn.net/index.php/open-source/documentation/howto.html?ref=seabits.com) between two Raspberry Pi systems just like above with simple configuration. The best piece of this is being able to get the data off the boat, share it with others, and send it out to many different locations without using up my cell plan data on the boat. ### Save your battery and your beer with the Stainless Lobster Fridge Optimizer URL: https://seabits.com/save-battery-beer-stainless-lobster-fridge-optimizer/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:02:03.000Z On my sailboat [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), the refrigerator is a key part of being able to enjoy the water and the journey. It’s also one of the biggest power draws, and the contents never seem to be just the right temperature. Those issues are what the [Stainless Lobster Fridge Optimizer](http://stainlesslobster.com/fridge-optimizer/?ref=seabits.com) is out to change. The [Fridge Optimizer](http://stainlesslobster.com/fridge-optimizer/?ref=seabits.com) is a compact screen and CPU inside a 3D-printed shell that connects to your existing compressor to more efficiently run your refrigerator/freezer. As a result, you end up with your food (and beer!) being kept the right temperature more accurately, the fridge running more optimally, defrosting regularly, and a clear way of seeing the impact it has on your battery bank. > Originally posted on [Three Sheets Northwest](http://threesheetsnw.com/blog/2016/03/save-your-battery-and-your-beer-with-the-stainless-lobster-fridge-optimizer/?ref=seabits.com) on March 23, 2016 # The System ![Fridge Optimizer System](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160216-fridge-optimizer-1_DxO-1-1.jpg) The Fridge Optimizer consists of three main pieces – the control unit, the bit that connects to your compressor (connector block), and the fan/temp sensor that goes into your fridge. There’s also a cable for the fan/temp sensor to connect to the compressor unit, and an Ethernet cable to connect the compressor unit to the control unit. There are very clear instructions included with the packaging, and some basic information online as well. One thing that is important to check before purchasing is whether the system is compatible with your compressor. From Stainless Lobster’s site: *Fridge Optimizer kit for with a connector for the DC only Secop/Danfoss based fridges and freezers. These compressor controllers have the model numbers:* *101N0210, 101N0320, 101N0400, 101N0410, 010-1153* My compressor was a 101N0200 model system, and after a few emails with Annika and Arvid @ SL, they confirmed that my model would still work! They also have an AC model too. # Fan and Temp Sensor ![Fridge Optimizer Fan](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160216-fridge-optimizer-11_DxO-1.jpg) This part of the unit goes into your fridge and monitors both the temperature and the humidity at a very accurate level — apparently 0.01 degrees of accuracy. In addition, they’ve included a 4″ fan with a cool blue LED light that is on while the fan is in operation. The fact that it’s monitoring both temp and humidity gives the system a huge advantage in controling the state of your fridge. First, it’s not an old-school temp sensor – it’s digital and extremely accurate. Second, the humidity sensor provides great feedback about when you should defrost, absolutely key in keeping it running in optimal condition. Combine the inside humidity with outside humidity from the control unit, and you’re really running things efficiently. Add in the fan, which aids in air distribution dramatically in my case, as well as helps with defrosting. ![Fridge Optimizer Sensor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160216-fridge-optimizer-12_DxO-1.jpg) This piece of the system is key in gathering the right data about the health of your fridge, but you need something smart to use the data… # Control Unit ![Fridge Optimizer Control Unit](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160216-fridge-optimizer-7_DxO-1.jpg) The 3D-printed control unit is a thing of beauty. I love 3D printing in general, and am happy to start seeing mainstream products using this more. It allows for quicker time to market as well as constant revisions and innovation. The unit itself has a bright front display with control buttons for various settings, screens, and menus. There’s an Ethernet port on the back where the system gets its data and power, and a USB port for updates. ![Fridge Optimizer Table Mount](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160315-fridge-optimizer-19_DxO-1.jpg) The unit can be flush mounted, or connect on an included stand that has 3M sticky tape to keep it in place. I have not fully mounted mine yet, pending another project I’m working on to replace my entire nav station panel. # Connector Block ![Fridge Optimizer Connector Block Back](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160216-fridge-optimizer-9_DxO-1.jpg) The connector block connects to your compressor, fridge optimizer temp/fan sensor, and the control unit itself. The backside of the connector block is built to snap directly into your existing compressor wiring harness. You’ll have to remove your existing wires to do this — I took the opportunity to label them for reassembly later. This is where the 3D printing will really help Stainless Lobster in the future. If they want to support a new compressor type, they can design a new block quickly, and spit out new blocks on demand based on orders. I have to imagine the chips and tech inside would not change that much (if at all) depending on the compressor, only the control unit software. ![Fridge Optimizer Front Connector Block](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160216-fridge-optimizer-10_DxO-1.jpg) On the front of the connector block are the pins for your wiring to reconnect to, a status LED, and the Ethernet port to connect to the control unit. On the side is the input for the temp/fan sensor cable. # Installation Installation took me about 2 hours, but I had been planning for a while, and thought I’d traced out where I wanted everything. First, I installed the connector block on the compressor, which was very easy, then reconnected the compressor wiring, connected the Ethernet cable and temp/fan sensor wire and ran them to their destinations. I ended up using my own Ethernet cable, which was longer and colored black to match the unit. ![Fridge Optimizer Installed Connector Block](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160217-fridge-optimizer-38_DxO-1.jpg) Connector block installed with wiring reconnected on the front, Ethernet cable on the bottom, and fan/temp sensor cable on the left hand side. The longest part of the install was getting the darn temp sensor wire in through the back of and into the fridge. The way that Beneteau built *[Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/)*, they used a standard temp sensor and adjustable knob inside the fridge — I used that cabling to pull the new cable through, but it still took 30 minutes of contortions and pain to get it where I wanted. Once all the cabling was in place, I temporarily set the fan inside the fridge unit blowing on the cold plate, as recommended by the folks at Stainless Lobster. I found them very quick to respond to questions, and helpful with optimizations on how to install the system. My recommendation would be to temporarily mount the fan/temp sensor unit and see how your performance varies with it in a few areas. I loaded up the fridge with as much as I could find, some warm, some dense items, and started experimenting with the control unit. # Control and Settings ![Fridge Optimizer Control Unit Graph](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160315-fridge-optimizer-11_DxO-1.jpg) Control unit showing current fridge temperature along with a histogram of temperature ranges. The control unit is absolutely beautiful when you leave it in the graphical mode above — pictures don’t do it justice, but the graph on the bottom is a nice rainbow color showing the cold and warm side of the cycles. The unit itself is very bright and easy to read and automatically dims after a timeout. The buttons are easy to use, and allow you to navigate screens using the bottom left button, and change settings using the other four nav buttons. ![Fridge Optimizer Control Unit Main Screen](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160315-fridge-optimizer-2_DxO-1.jpg) Summary screen showing current temp, min/max setting, room temp, compressor status, and battery state. The summary screen shows the current temp, min and max temp settings, the room temperature, along with the status of both the compressor and your batteries being charged. I leave the system on this screen most of the time so I can see everything all in one place, especially the temp and whether the compressor is running or not. ![Fridge Optimizer Control Unit Energy Usage](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160315-fridge-optimizer-4_DxO-1.jpg) System runtimes, current draw, amp hour usage, and a compressor graph System runtime is great to know how long you’ve had your fridge on, but also how much of that time the compressor ran, as well as the current draw and 24h amp hour usage. These figures initially surprised me because they were so low but after running the entire system on battery, disconnected from shore power, and monitoring the battery bank with my Balmar meter, I can confirm that the figures are accurate. The amount of power I observed the system using during the month test period was at least 50% less than what I used previously! This will go a long way in allowing me to use more power elsewhere while away from the dock, and being able to charge up faster. ![Fridge Optimizer Control Unit Humidity](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160315-fridge-optimizer-9_DxO-1.jpg) Defrost/humidity status including fridge and outside humidity, a graph of humidity, and when the next defrost cycle is planned. The humidity calculations that the Fridge Optimizer uses include both outside in the cabin and inside the fridge. This allows for far more accurate calculations on how likely the cold plate is to freeze up, and drives the next defrost cycle. One thing I have noticed is that there is more water in the bottom of my fridge than with the previous system. Stainless Lobster says on their site that you can use a sponge to catch this, or a more permanent pipe if possible. ![Fridge Optimizer Control Unit Settings](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160315-fridge-optimizer-14_DxO-1.jpg) Settings has a bunch of values you can tweak to get your system setup just perfectly. SL recommends you change temp levels 2 degrees at a time while dialing in the perfect low/high setting, while still leaving a good spread between the two values. I found that for my system a low of 34 and a high of 40 would keep my significant other’s milk the perfect temperature. Here you can also turn boost mode off/on, set your compressor type, minimum battery voltage, plus lots more. I left most items at their defaults initially and had no issues, but wanted to experiment with boost mode and drop the temperature a bit. ![Fridge Optimizer Control Unit Boost Mode](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160315-fridge-optimizer-5_DxO-1.jpg) Boost mode didn’t seem to be an option with my previous thermostat or configuration, but with the Fridge Optimizer, you can enable it in the settings menu. From my testing so far, this allows for a very intense amount of cooling in a short period of time, only available if the battery status is “charging” so you’re not using as much battery power. They recommend adding an additional fan due to the heat generated by this mode, so I have not run it extensively until that is procured and installed. # Repairability and Maintenance Stainless Lobster has really outdone themselves here — they even highlight it in their documentation, as they should! They’ve used common components wherever possible — off the shelf CAT5 cabling, 4″ PC fan, 1/8″ audio cabling, etc. This means if you’re in some remote country, you’re more likely to find the things that are going to fail, and not have to deal with proprietary cabling. ![20160216-fridge-optimizer-2_DxO](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160216-fridge-optimizer-2_DxO-1.jpg) The unit also can be updated very easily by the end user. Uncover a USB port hidden on the control unit under a dust cap, connect it to your machine, run their updater, and you’re done. Trends can also be used to identify problems with your compressor, leaking coolant, bad insulation, or other things that you might be able to proactively fix prior to a total failure. # Feedback Stainless Lobster is a pretty new company, and as such you won’t find a ton of support documentation, videos, or other info on installation or usage. They obviously will be increasing this as their user base grows, but it would be nice to see more details on their support site. Supporting more types of compressors and systems is going to be key to bringing this to more people in the market. Allowing the data from the unit to be shared with other systems would be a great feature to add – whether that be via NMEA 2000 bus, or via wifi into [SignalK](http://www.signalk.org/?ref=seabits.com) – either would be fine with me. I would imagine adding a cheap wifi chip would be a quick way to do it. # Conclusions ![20160315-fridge-optimizer-8_DxO](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160315-fridge-optimizer-8_DxO-1.jpg) The fridge has been woefully overlooked when it comes to standard instrumentation or technology on most boats. We have MFDs that show us tons of information about the water and where we’re going, radios that can do amazing things with AIS and Bluetooth, yet many of us are still using a twisty dial that has the accuracy of a 1970’s era home thermostat (if that!). It’s great to see technology making a difference here. I have been using my Fridge Optimizer for a month now, and have been amazed at the battery savings I’m seeing during my tests. On average, I am using about 20 amp hours per day with the Fridge Optimizer. By my estimates, previous to the Optimizer, I was using between 50-65 amp hours. That’s a saving of at least 50%! It’s easy to install, beautiful to interact with, and configurable to your specific needs and setup. Using off-the shelf components helps with maintenance, and the possibilities for using the data collected will help plan future maintenance and expansion. Of course, the long term use will be interesting to see, especially during warmer months, but if the initial month is any indication, the Fridge Optimizer should still save me lots of battery while keeping things coold. The visibility into what my fridge is doing with such detail is perfect to have in such a compact unit. Keeping the beer and food perfectly cold while sipping on the batteries is exactly what I want to keep the crew, and captain, happy! ### Replacing cockpit hatch boards with Zarcor doors URL: https://seabits.com/replacing-cockpit-hatch-boards-zarcor-doors/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:03:42.000Z [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) came with standard hatch boards which were very sturdy, but a nightmare to use. Each weighs about 10 pounds and have sharp corners that tend to dent or chip things, besides being an absolute pain to store anywhere. Many shins have hit them while they were sitting on the cockpit seats. Need to get up at 3AM for a bathroom break? Go ahead and just hit everyone over the head with a pan — it would be less noise than removing the boards… Enter [Zarcor Compaionway Doors](http://www.zarcor.com/products/c-doors/index.php?ref=seabits.com)… # Existing Hatch Boards ![Benetau 311 cockpit hatch boards](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/benetau-311-cockpit-hatch-boards-slider.jpg) Original hatch boards The existing doors would be great if I was going offshore, which I don’t intend on doing. They are extremely sturdy, and have minimal air circulation holes, plus a good key lock. But they were very difficult to handle, and I have never found a good place to store them where they aren’t in the way or cause damage. # Zarcor Ordering and Options While ordering [cushions for my stern perch seats](http://www.zarcor.com/products/sternperch/index.php?ref=seabits.com) back when I first purchased Grace, I noticed that Zarcor, the makers of the seats, also made companionway doors. After a few months of looking around elsewhere, and considering doing it myself, I was convinced that Zarcor knew what they were doing more than anyone else, and began the ordering process. ![Zarcor companionway doors order form](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/zarcor-companionway-doors-order-form-1.png) Zarcor’s ordering process is very fulfilling for someone who likes lots of details. Not only can you choose from a number of different options, but the measuring instructions are extremely clear and well thought out. I chose white doors, tinted, screen, and privacy panel inserts, air vents, an insert storage bag, and a key lock. After completing the ordering process, I emailed all of the measurement details sheet, and sent tracings of my existing hatch boards via FedEx to Zarcor. They also have tons of pictures and options for just about every type of boat on the market, and it looks like they could even do custom boats. # Unboxing After a few weeks, the finished product arrived in one big box on my doorstep. ![Zarcor cockpit doors unboxed](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/zarcor-cockpit-doors-unboxed.jpg) The first thing you’ll notice when you unbox the doors is how well they are made. The edges and corners of everything aren’t sharp – they’re carefully beveled. The inside and outside of each door is a complete separate piece of starboard, connected together and strengthened by a [stainless steel girder](http://www.zarcor.com/products/c-doors/faq.php?ref=seabits.com#4) inside. ![Zarcor cockpit doors top plate retainer](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/zarcor-cockpit-doors-top-plate-retainer.jpg) The top of each door has a removable aluminum cap with a retaining ball built into the door. Once removed, you can slide in/out a panel of your choice. As mentioned above, I chose bug screens, white privacy inserts, and a smoke tint insert. ![Bug screen insert being removed](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/zarcor-cockpit-doors-screen-mesh-insert.jpg) It’s easy to remove the insert, and I also purchased a bag that will keep them relatively safe when not in use. ![zarcor cockpit doors inserts](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/zarcor-cockpit-doors-inserts.jpg) I like the options available depending on the time of year (bugs!), or whether you’re in a busy marina (privacy) or just want light (smoke). It’s like having three doors in one. # Installation ![Install under way](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/zarcor-cockpit-doors-partly-installed.jpg) Install under way Installation varies from boat to boat. In my case, it required screwing new channels into the side of the companionway to hold the doors. While this was a bit unnerving to do, it allows me to use the hatch boards at some point in the future if I need to. It’s also the only option on most Beneteau and Jeannau boats which have u-shaped channels for the boards. Zarcor can make doors that actually slide in the existing channel for other models which is likely a simpler install. Installing the channels required at least an hour of test fitting and careful measurements. Zarcor provides a DVD installation video with the product, [which are also online](http://www.zarcor.com/products/c-doors/c-doors%5Fvideos.php?ref=seabits.com). I highly recommend carefully watching them several times before starting. It’s critical to follow all of their steps including shims between the doors, around the edges to keep things tight while installing the channels. Once the channels were installed, I made a few small adjustments to corners and edges, and the doors slid right on their points like they came from the factory! ![zarcor cockpit doors outside close](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/zarcor-cockpit-doors-outside-close.jpg) New doors installed The new lock came with an adapter plate to attach to the existing sliding cover, and fits perfectly. # Conclusions This is one of the best upgrades for any boat I have had. The convenience of not having to deal with hatch boards, plus the safety and security of being able to close or open the doors very quickly in the event of bad weather. The doors fold out of the way while at the dock and don’t seem to flop around even with moderate waves. While under way, they can be popped off their points and stored very easily below, unlike the monstrously large and heavy hatch boards. ![Doors open easily and fold against the companionway](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/zarcor-cockpit-doors-outside-opened.jpg) Doors open easily and fold against the companionway The added benefit of being able to change out the inserts is going to be very convenient, and allow for airflow during the warm months. Zarcor was very easy to work with, called to confirm all of my measurements and clarify a few things, and the end product fit perfectly. It’s pretty impressive that they’re able to make such a great fitting product considering that over time all of our boats start having their own unique bends and changes. Building something like this yourself would take days of trial and error. Highly recommended upgrade to any boat with hatch boards. ### New pedestal guard and NavPod URL: https://seabits.com/new-pedestal-guard-and-navpod/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:05:15.000Z [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) came with an odd pedestal guard which appeared to be factory installed. It was tiny, hard to hold onto when moving around the cockpit, and also it had started to come loose recently. I started looking at options, and ended up posting a message in one of my favorite places for Beneteau owners – [SailboatOwners Forums](http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?forums/ask-a-beneteau-owner.64/&ref=seabits.com). Within a day or two, several folks had suggested different options, but user [Gunni suggested](http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/pedestal-guard-replacement.177276/&ref=seabits.com#post-1272581) getting a pedestal guard and NavPod from [Ocean Equipment](http://www.oceanequipment.com/?ref=seabits.com), which looked exactly like what I wanted… > I have since updated my helm station with a different approach after having some stability issues. Read more about it in [NavPod to PowerPod – saving the helm station](https://seabits.com/navpod-powerpod-saving-helm-station/) Here’s the original pedestal guard, which was somewhat functional, but ever since I added a RAM mount to the top to hold my chartplotter, it became mostly unusable. ![IMG_1572](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/IMG_1572.jpg) After some back and forth on the forum, and with Reed @ Ocean Equipment (who was extremely helpful – nice in today’s world of impersonal online orders) I settled on a [Single Bend AngleGuard](http://www.oceanequipment.com/angleguards-single-bend-9-5-wide/?ref=seabits.com) which is 9.5″ wide, and 1.25″ diameter tubes, paired with a [NavPod SystemPod](http://www.oceanequipment.com/systempod-gp1500-series-for-9-5-guard-new-gen3-model/?ref=seabits.com) that matched the guard. ![20160223-pedestal-3](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160223-pedestal-3.jpg) The first part of the install required removing the original guard, and then enlarging the holes. The width on the original one was wider than the new AngleGuard, but based on measurements, widening the holes would work out perfectly. The next step was cutting down the AngleGuard to the right depth, drilling some holes through the pedestal base, and adding clamps to keep it all secure. That required some seriously weird measuring – having the entire unit test installed, reaching up through an access hole with a light and a marker on a stick. ![IMG_1606](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/IMG_1606.jpg) I also wanted to replace a light that lit up the cockpit table – we play card games outside all of the time and needed good light. I ended up using my favorite LED source for an [outdoor, warm, wide beam light](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/rv-custom-walking-path-lighting/2-smd-led-license-plate-light/250/?ref=seabits.com), and an [in-line dimmer](https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/mcbrf-4a-single-color-led-mini-dimmer-with-dynamic-modes-rf-remote/1370/?ref=seabits.com). The light is absolutely perfect – a great warm color, wide beam angle, and dimmable via a nice little remote that can also control more of the in-line dimmers, which I intend on installing elsewhere in the cockpit and companionway. The base itself is secured deep inside the pedestal, but also at the top of the fiberglass structure with two pad mounts. The rest of the install consisted of mounting the NavPod on the guard, wiring the LED light, running the cables up the guard (not an easy task) for both SeaTalkNG and power, and mounting both the [Raymarine eS78 MFD](http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=12164&collectionid=179&col=12166&ref=seabits.com) and the [B&G H50 wireless VHF handset](https://seabits.com/bg-v50-vhf-radio-h50-wireless-handset/). The NavPod was pre-cut for the Raymarine, but required holes for the H50 VHF. I also added a BlueSea power distribution strip inside the NavPod so I didn’t have to run multiple wires up the AngleGuard. The final product not only provides a fantastically strong guard to grab onto, but provides almost triple the grab space all around. Especially for me moving from the captain’s seat forward, it is perfect to keep things as safe as possible. ![20160225-pedestal-9](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/03/20160225-pedestal-24.jpg) On top of this, the MFD and VHF are front and center, viewable by standing or sitting, and not obstructing my view forward when sitting. The wireless VHF is fantastic – providing clear audio pointed right at the skipper, and available to walk around with if needed. I’m very happy with the overall result, and expect a long life out of all parts of this great install. ### Welcome to the new site - SailBits.com URL: https://seabits.com/welcome-to-the-new-site-sailbits-com/ Last updated: 2021-01-24T16:57:05.000Z I’m proud to announce the re-launch of my website under a new name and structure. I have been working on this for several months, with the final steps happening this week. The biggest change is in structure and content – I have made a significant effort to reorganize the entire site under three major areas: [Reviews](/tag/reviews/), [Projects](/tag/projects/) and [Trips](/tag/trips/). Most of what I’ve written about falls under these categories, and I intend on writing even more frequently on these subjects.The goal of the redesign and re-launch is to make it easier for people to find the content they are looking for, and showcase the reviews and projects which I spend so much time working on and documenting. The site is more focused on sailing technology, marine electronics, and general technology where it intersects either of those subjects. Later in the week I will be launching other parts of the structure, including more detailed project pages, information on my current and former sailboats and their histories and designs, as well as some other goodies. I’m very excited about a more structured and informative site, and look forward to your feedback! ### Boat Command initial install and review URL: https://seabits.com/boat-command-initial-install/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:07:32.000Z In today’s world of always-connected systems, I am surprised that there are not more vendors in the space of vessel monitoring. In 2008 I installed a system from Boat Sense Solutions which failed multiple times, was generally unreliable, and the company has since gone out of business. Since then there have been some new players in the market including [Siren Marine](https://sirenmarine.com/?ref=seabits.com) & [Boat Command](https://boatcommand.com/?ref=seabits.com). My previous sailboat had a significant NMEA 2000 network which included monitoring of batteries, shore power, and more. Through a Linux system on board, I was able to use command line tools to monitor the system, as well as a [Maretron SMS gateway](https://seabits.com/maretron-sms100/) which allowed for proactive alerts and some communication. But it still had problems responding reliably, and it was difficult configure, and all SMS/text based. Recently with the purchase of [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), my new Beneteau 311 sailboat, I’ve been wanting to have some sort of remote monitoring to ensure my investment is safe, but installing Maretron products everywhere would be thousands of dollars. I have a [Peplink Max BR1](http://www.peplink.com/products/max-cellular-router/single-cellular/?ref=seabits.com) LTE router on board which allows me to connect remotely via the Internet, but that device is not designed to monitor boat systems. This time around I’ve chosen [Boat Command](https://boatcommand.com/?ref=seabits.com) [‘s](https://boatcommand.com/?ref=seabits.com) [Boat Connect](https://boatcommand.com/product/boat-connect/?ref=seabits.com) product, and added a [shore power adapter](https://boatcommand.com/product/shore-power/?ref=seabits.com), [temperature sensor](https://boatcommand.com/product/temperature-sensor/?ref=seabits.com), and [motion sensor](https://boatcommand.com/product/motion-sensor/?ref=seabits.com). Total cost was about $400 for the whole package, which is very reasonable. You can [find it on Amazon](https://amzn.to/2Tn2P2J?ref=seabits.com). The main unit is well made and sealed. It has a connector on the left where a large pigtail connects and allows you to wire to a number of different things into it’s monitoring system, as well as control items remotely as through it’s relays. ![20160109-untitled-7](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/20160109-untitled-7.jpg) The install was rather quick, having done this before with other similar devices. I suspect it may take the average user a bit longer as you need to plan where the device should go so you can reach all the relevant items you want to monitor. For me, the engine room is the best spot since I can get to the two battery banks main switches, route temp and security sensors, and get to shore power (eventually – haven’t installed that yet). Make sure before you install the unit that you test it in it’s final spot. Remember, this unit uses the cellular network to communicate, and GPS for location, so if there’s something blocking either of those, the unit won’t be much use. You also will need the code off the back of the unit to get started. After following the setup process online and creating an account, I added my unit, and chose a subscription plan. After a few minutes, I was greeted with a whole host of data coming from my boat! ![Main screen showing all vessel details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/bc-main-screen.png) You can see in the screen shot above the GPS location of my boat, two battery bank voltages, options for geofencing and security, and the weather both inside and outside. On the right hand, a real-time news feed of things happening on the boat shows up. ![bc mobile main screen](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/bc-mobile-main-screen.jpg) In addition to the web app, there is a mobile app which has most of the same functionality. It has worked really well during all of my initial use, and is a great way to check on your boat quickly every day. There are detail pages in the mobile app as well which I have some screen shots of below. ![bc menu](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/bc-menu.png) Within the web app, there are a number of menus and options available to configure you boat, account, and other info. You can see in the screen shot to the right that there are also areas to setup things like service records, add an insurance certificate, and force an update from the unit (Request Update) when you want fresh data. Configuring text and email alerts is under your account settings, and everything else important is in the Boat Settings menu, including details about your vessel which can be helpful to record. ![Boat Command Subscription level](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/Screen-Shot-2016-02-06-at-9.55.09-AM.png) One thing that is important to note is your subscription level. There are various different levels depending on the frequency of data collected from the system. I chose the most granular, as I felt that gathering data every hour was far more important to me than only every 4 or 8 hours, which in today’s always on world, seems like an eternity. Note that alerts and alarms don’t wait for that timeframe and are as real-time as possible. Once everything is installed, and the system has started reporting data, you’ll be able to see more details under each sub area. In the example below, you can see details on setting alarm levels for voltage being less than a particular amount, alert history, and then a log of the voltage as it’s reported every hour. ![bc battery details](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/bc-battery-details.png) You can see the same information in the mobile app, and even adjust your alert levels via the app as well. ![bc inside temp](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/bc-inside-temp.png) Alerts and thresholds are configurable based on the type of sensor. In the screen shot above, there are two settings for both a high and low temperature. For battery sensors, there’s only a low voltage setting. For security it’s an on/off setting, and same with geofence, although there’s a range/distance setting for that item as well. ![bc geofence anchor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/bc-geofence-anchor.png) One of the nice features beyond standard monitoring is the ability to set geofence and security monitoring. This will be useful when anchoring and leaving the boat, or just for general security. One big advantage that BoatCommand has over the other solutions is such a rich web and mobile app. All of the other systems I’ve used are 100% text based, which is easy to use from any phone, but very limiting in terms of historical data, and how you interact with it. Trying to remember the random short codes to ask for battery voltage, or to change things remotely, is pretty difficult. Everything nowadays has a web or app for it, so it makes sense that folks should be doing the same for monitoring your boat. I’ve had the BoatCommand system in place for almost 2 years, and have had no major issues or problems with it – very easy to setup. It reliably reports the condition of my boat, and I have been alerted to several things remotely that I would not have known without it. ### Aeroccino 3 an amazing milk frother URL: https://seabits.com/aeroccino-3-amazing-milk-frother/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:11:51.000Z Most people who know me are aware of my coffee addiction. At it’s height, I had a cafe-quality machine at home in my kitchen that took 30 minutes to warm up, could pull 4x shots simultaneously, and probably cost me $250 in power alone to run every month. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/EN-520W-left.jpg) When my husband and I moved to our current loft, he made it clear I needed to slim down this rather large system, especially since I only generally used it on weekends or mornings before work. Besides the machine itself, I had coffee storage bins, multiple grinders, a multitude of milk pitchers depending on the drinks, etc. After a lot of research, I chose to downsize to a Nespresso system, specifically the [Lattissima Plus](http://amzn.to/1SxRZ15?ref=seabits.com). It came with a milk system that claimed it could make great lattes and otherwise. While it did a good job, I never felt it was up to the same level of what I could do by hand with a real machine. My biggest complaints were the consistency of the milk, and cleaning. The consistency was the most frustrating, since you only have a simple dial on the top to add or reduce the amount of air bubbles in the mix. Temperature and type of milk also would wildly cause varying results, some of which were lumpy and gross. This is not unlike making your own milk by hand, but there are more options and tools to adjust things when doing it yourself. Cleaning was where this system really failed. What you don’t see in the picture is the small tube that is inside the milk container that had obscured ends on it, and was impossible to clean. Even leaving this milk system with some small amount of liquid in it for one day in the refrigerator would cause some sort of nasty residue to exist. There are instructions to wash parts of this by hand, and others in the dishwasher, but it just never felt like it got clean enough for me. Milk cleanliness is super important with this sort of stuff, and I always took a lot of care with my manual system in the past – the steam wand in particular – because of horror stories I had heard of, and seen myself. ![Aeroccino 3](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/51-9EPPwkwL._SL1200_.jpg) Aeroccino 3 Recently after re-ordering more Nespresso capsules for my machine, I saw details on a product that is in it’s 3rd revision now, and has gotten a lot of reviews and kudos – the [Nespresso Aeroccino 3 Milk Frother](http://amzn.to/2dMwht2?ref=seabits.com). After reading a lot of reviews and watching a few Youtube videos, I ordered mine through Amazon, and have been using it about 2 weeks now. I can say hands down that this is the best system I have ever used to produce both hot and cold milk for coffee and otherwise. The consistency of product that it produces is amazing, and it is super easy to use and clean up. ![Dense foam](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2016/01/IMG_1301.jpg) Dense foam There are two settings for the end product – one for super dense foam, ala cappucinos, and one for a more standard latte-style result. To adjust this, you add or remove a spring like device to the bottom of the frother, which connects magnetically to a pin in the bottom of the system. That magnetic connection is one of my favorite parts of this system – it allows you to remove the spinning frother, clean it quickly with water, and the inside of the system is now one consistent piece of metal that can also be quickly cleaned. You know every last piece of it is 100% clean and sanitized. I’ve had this unit now for about 3 weeks, and I absolutely love it. It’s wildly consistent, easy to clean, and very quick to make the best milk around. Highly recommended! ### SignalK and services moved to Raspberry Pi B URL: https://seabits.com/signalk-and-services-moved-to-raspberry-pi-b/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:12:59.000Z After a number of years of faithful service, I retired my [Soekris net6501](http://soekris.com/products/net6501-1.html?ref=seabits.com) linux system which started life on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/), and moved to [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/). I had purchased this back in 2012 to replace an older [Soekris net5501](http://soekris.com/products/net5501.html?ref=seabits.com) system that had been in place for even longer. Replacing the net6501 was a brand new, Raspberry Pi B starter kit I purchased on [Amazon from CanaKit](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XVAVAW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref%5F=oh%5Faui%5Fsearch%5Fdetailpage&ref=seabits.com). I was excited at the power savings from the Pi, as well as the wifi option, and faster, more capable CPUs. In addition to the Pi kit itself, I also needed a 12v to 5v converter, which I also found on [Amazon](https://amzn.to/2UrV1t1?ref=seabits.com). Longer term I want to do something more marine-grade for this as time allows. I kept the standard Pi operating system, and added my own tools and tweaks for my systems administration preferences, including Zabbix for remote monitoring from my central site. I connected up my Actisense gateway, and had [SignalK](http://signalk.org/?ref=seabits.com) running again in about an hour’s time. ![grace top](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/12/grace-top.png) So far the new platform handles running SignalK, the various monitoring apps, and AIS monitoring software even faster and more efficiently than the Soekris did, and at less than half of the power consumption! Oh, and it’s about 1/4 the size as well. A win all around. I installed the Pi behind the Navigation master panel directly connected to the main part of the N2K bus, and on the same circuit as my AIS class-B Vesper XB-8000 transponder, which I generally leave on 24×7. So far I am very impressed with the Pi platform on the boat. Of course, I had Pi’s for my ADS-B stuff around for a while (will write that up soon) and already had proven their usefulness, but I appreciate the compact capabilities especially for a space constrained sailboat. ### Quadcopter at the Cabin URL: https://seabits.com/quadcopter-at-the-cabin/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:14:21.000Z One of the best places for me to fly my quadcopter is at the family cabin near Nile, WA, which is in Eastern Washington and pretty remote. With all of the restrictions and bad news stories about idiots flying drones into populated areas, or creating unsafe conditions, I want to ensure that I am in as safe a location as possible. While I have been flying various RC devices for 10+ years, I still never want to be responsible for damaging or hurting someone. The result is some pretty awesome 4K video of deer on a hill, chasing Josh, the ridge, and the river, plus a bunch of stills. I am using the [DJI Phantom 3 Professional](http://www.dji.com/product/phantom-3-pro?ref=seabits.com) with a few modifications. I have 6 batteries, carbon fiber protective end pieces, reinforced camera mount, and a camera protector. I’m currently using the [ThinkTank Airport Helipak](https://www.thinktankphoto.com/collections/airport-series-backpacks/products/airport-helipak?ref=seabits.com) backpack to carry things around. ![Airport Helipak](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/12/IMG_1402.jpg) Airport Helipak ![Cliffs and Nile, WA in the distance](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/12/20151204-untitled-4_HDR.jpg) Cliffs and Nile, WA in the distance I had some problems with batteries during this time, with several alerts that were very disturbing about voltage on a particular cell. After uploading the data to Healthy Drones, I could see that several batteries reached low voltage on one cell during violent maneuvers. DJI has since released a newer version of firmware that “fixed” this by slowing down the speed you can ascend, and probably other things. Many people on PhantomPilots.com have complained about the changes, but DJI is obviously trying to fix the issue – most likely caused by the cold – instead of letting folks have crashes and problems. I love the perspectives from the quad, especially the photos. The video is something still new to me even after 3 years of it, and I’m not sure that the gigabytes of 4k videos I now have will do much but be great landscape shots for some archeologist in the future. ### The Salton Sea and Palm Springs URL: https://seabits.com/the-salton-sea-and-palm-springs/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:15:36.000Z After 3+ months of 18 hour days and no weekends at work, Josh and I traveled to San Antonio, TX for a huge work conference, and the launch of a product I had been working on. It went very well, and we had scheduled a vacation directly afterwards in Palm Springs with a bunch of friends. While we were there, we decided to do a bit of exploring on the final day, and ventured out to the Salton Sea, which I’ve always wanted to see. The house we rented was absolutely amazing. It had the usual fancy outdoor pool, a putting green, cabana, fire pit, and a separate casita where Josh and I stayed. It was wonderful to have such a nice place to relax after a pretty terrible last 3 months on the work front. ![IMG_0995](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/11/IMG_0995.jpg) ![IMG_0998](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/11/IMG_0998.jpg) The first night we were there, we were treated by a crazy light show in the night sky. After tweeting and watching news sites, we gathered that the Navy had done a test fire of a Trident missile from a sub or ship off the coast, and it had lit up the night sky with crazy images. Why they decided to do this on a busy weeknight right at commute time is beyond me. ![Trident missile launch](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/11/IMG_0940.jpg) Trident missile launch Our final day in Palm Springs we decided to trek out to the [Salton Sea](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salton%5FSea?ref=seabits.com) to see what it was all about. Both Josh and I love abandoned and decayed architecture, and we’d heard there were structures and even a whole town that was worth seeing. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/11/IMG_1001.jpg) Josh looking at the Salton Sea ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/11/IMG_1002.jpg) Salton Sea dead fish ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/11/IMG_1004.jpg) Salton Sea fish The Sea itself was awe inspiring – Josh read out loud while we circled it the way it was created, the opulent seaside houses that were built in the 1950s, and the downfall with the Imperial Valley food empire and fertilizer draining into the basin. The fact that many of the dead fish and sea life you see has been slowly decaying over a 10 year period blows my mind. We found the town in question, but of course I forgot to take pictures! There were abandoned buildings, movie theaters and otherwise. We also found an entire grid of streets, each named after the states in the US, worth of empty lots and single houses – miles of potential near-beach housing that was never built, or has been torn down. The story behind the Salton Sea is worth a read – check out the wikipedia article above, and do a search on Google for more background. It’s a crazy story of how our quest for food and industrial might created something fantastic in the 1800s, and then turned into what looks pseudo-nightmarish now. Highly recommend a visit! ### Long Beach windstorm URL: https://seabits.com/long-beach-windstorm/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:16:16.000Z This weekend instead of a sailing project or trip, we went to Long Beach, WA for a friends birthday. It’s about a 3.5 hour drive from Seattle, so we were in for a while in the car. The scenery once you get past Montesano is some of my favorite in Washington State – the tide flats and wildlife areas that the road winds next to are pretty amazing just to gaze at and wonder if you could walk across, or sink out of sight. The birds and other animals that frequent them are also in abundance year round. The trip took us to Long Beach proper, but we also ventured out to Cape Disappointment State Park and other nearby spots. For the entire trip, it still felt like we were on a sailing adventure as we were constantly near water! Along the way, we stopped in Raymond for a driving break. The guys needed to use the restroom, so we ventured into the [Northwest Carriage Museum](http://nwcarriagemuseum.org/?ref=seabits.com). Inside, you will find two large spaces filled with carriages that have been lovingly restored and maintained. Some were used in famous movies like Gone with the Wind, while others were used in everyday life. I highly recommend stopping just to see a method of moving around from our recent past. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0777.jpg) Josh in front of an opulent carriage ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0780.jpg) Famous Carriage ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0781.jpg) Carriage ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0782.jpg) An older carriage with the author, also old ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0787.jpg) Carriage emblem ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0788.jpg) Gone with the Wind ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0789.jpg) Carriage used in Gone with the Wind ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0790.jpg) My favorite specimen – dark blue and meticulously maintained The weather the first day was amazingly windy and not good to be outside in. The video posted above shows the tail end of the storm on the beach. No one was driving on the beach or even barely outside – the truck in front of us was the local Sheriff watching for people who were in distress. I’ve been down to the ocean beaches many times, and seen some good storms, but the wind with this one was particularly strong – the sand blowing across the beach earlier in the day was almost a white out (sand out?) condition, and you couldn’t be outside even at our condo without being peppered by sand, a mile inland. Glad I was on land! While visiting, I wanted to get some good quad copter footage similar to what I had done during July 4th of the same year (not posted yet) but the quad had issues with an ESC board, and required open heart surgery. She would not fly this trip… ![Quad during surgery](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0847.jpg) Quad during surgery Our trip took us, as mentioned above, to [Cape Disappointment State Park](https://washington.goingtocamp.com/CapeDisappointmentStatePark?ref=seabits.com), which is a huge space complete with two lighthouses and plenty to see. We opted for a late afternoon visit to [North Head Lighthouse](http://northheadlighthouse.com/?ref=seabits.com), and were not disappointed! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/P1020803.jpg) View from the lighthouse down towards the Columbia River Bar ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/P1020827.jpg) Latitude and Longitude of the lighthouse. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/P1020832.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/P1020838.jpg) View to the north from the lighthouse. North Head Lighthouse ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/P1020840.jpg) The wonderful sunset from the lighthouse This area is referred to as the [Graveyard of the Pacific](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graveyard%5Fof%5Fthe%5FPacific?ref=seabits.com), and gives me chills every time I visit. Thinking about how many sailors have lost their lives alone on the [Columbia River Bar](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Columbia%5FBar?ref=seabits.com) is sobering. I don’t ever expect to sail the open ocean – I’m more of a gunkholing and coastal cruiser kind of guy – but if I do, I will steer clear of this area. The trip was capped off by a beautiful sunset after the weather departed, and we left the next day for the trip back home. ![Long Beach sunset before we left the next day](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/P1020844.jpg) Long Beach sunset before we left the next day ### Remote WiFi and solar panel adjustments URL: https://seabits.com/remote-wifi-and-solar-panel-adjustments/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:16:41.000Z I’ve been struggling with a remote solar panel at our Eastern Washington family cabin (see [Solar learning curve](https://seabits.com/solar-learning-curve/), and [Solar panel update](https://seabits.com/solar-panel-update/)) but have learned a lot. The panel and the MPPT controller seem to work very well, but the batteries are not as reliable as I’d like, and the DC loads vary so much I have been having problems depleting the available amp hours available to me. In October I visited the site again to make some adjustments… Most of the time was spent moving the batteries to the garage and recharging them carefully with a proper charger. Some recabling was needed as well, as I was going to replace the WiFi APs everywhere with products I already had from Ubiquiti. Originally I had switched to Peplink AP’s both inside and out to match the routers I have at home, boat and at the cabin, but their performance was terrible compared to the Ubiquiti UniFi line, and in particular, the outdoor unit used a lot more power. ![Guts of WiFi systGuts of WiFi system](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0752.jpg) Guts of solar wifi system In the picture above you can see the [TriStar MPPT 60 solar charge controller](http://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/tristar-mppt/?ref=seabits.com) (highly recommended) on the right, and the [Remote Monitoring Systems](http://www.remotemonitoringsystems.ca/?ref=seabits.com) linux box in the upper right. There are two 51ah GEL solar batteries, a PoE injector for the WiFi AP, a 12v to 5v converter for the Dropcam mounted on the pole, and various wiring. Once this was all updated, adjusted, and cleaned, I added the [UniFi AP Outdoor](https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-outdoor/?ref=seabits.com) that I had previously had installed here, along with a fantastic [airMAX Omni 2.4Ghz 10dBi Antenna](https://www.ubnt.com/airmax/airmax-omni-antenna/?ref=seabits.com). ![Antenna and AP](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/10/IMG_0758.jpg) Antenna and AP The Remote Monitoring system shuts down all loads (but itself) when solar voltage drops below a usable threshold, and starts everything back up when the voltage returns. It also shuts everything off if the battery voltage reaches a critically low level. Hopefully these adjustments will keep things running longer, and allow the outdoor devices around the farm to connect reliably. Only time will tell. ### South to Tacoma to visit Dick and Jo URL: https://seabits.com/south-to-tacoma-to-visit-dick-and-jo/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:17:02.000Z Josh and I wanted to have another joint sailing weekend with Dick and Jo, his parents who also have a sailboat and live at a marina in Tacoma. The year before we had met near Poulsbo and spent a weekend there and at Port Orchard. We had a great time together doing our usual card games, exploring the towns, and just sailing together, which we had never done. This time we headed further south than we had in a while, to Tacoma. We left Seattle on September 8th to a grey sky and no wind at all. ![IMG_0413](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/09/IMG_0413.jpg) Grey skies leaving Seattle Heading south, we passed the Vashon-Fauntleroy-Southworth ferries working their routes on the calm seas, with a bulker making it’s way south to Tacoma as well. ![IMG_0418](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/09/IMG_0418.jpg) Vashon ferry and bulker in the distance The sun came out, and we made our way into Tyee Marina without any issues – a nice 3.5 hour motor from Seattle. We were given a slip nearby Dick and Jo’s boat Noel, and got everything situated. This was the first time I was able to get a picture of Grace’s stern since I put our hailing port letters on her stern. ![IMG_0443](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/09/IMG_0443.jpg) Grace’s new hailing port letters that I put on upside down hanging off the stern! That evening Heather drove down and joined us for a wonderful set of card games with Dick and Jo. Jo has tons of games that have been passed down in her family that we always play that are super fun. Some day I will document those here… At one point, the boat keys and a super bowl ring (real) were in the pot! ![IMG_0434](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/09/IMG_0434.jpg) We had a wonderful three days with Dick and Jo, talking about boats constantly (me and Dick) and just hanging out and enjoying each other’s company. The weather was fantastic every day, sunny and warm during the day with a bit of mist at night. ![Dick enjoying a drink in Grace's cockpit.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/09/IMG_0451.jpg) Dick enjoying a drink in Grace’s cockpit. Dick and Jo surprised both me and Josh by giving us their dinghy, which they didn’t really use that much anymore. We were deeply appreciative and spent a bunch of time learning about how to take care of it. We were sad to go, but we had a longer trip home given the currents and wind. We chose to go up Colvos Passage based on the more favorable currents, and the protection from the winds, dinghy in tow. ![Our new dinghy in tow](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/09/IMG_0464.jpg) Our new dinghy in tow While on the way back, Jo was following us on MarineTraffic and reported that we disappeared multiple times along the way. After further investigation, I determined that a bad antenna connection was to blame. I also suspect that having a standard VHF antenna that isn’t tuned for AIS (I’m using a splitter) is probably not helping either. We got home late but were greeted by a great sunset, cleaned up the boat from 4 days of traveling, and headed home tired and relaxed. Next year, we hope to sail even further south with Jo and Dick to some of my favorite places from growing up – Jarrel Cove, Hartstene Island, and more! ### August windstorm and staycation URL: https://seabits.com/august-windstorm/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:17:27.000Z JJ and I had decided to see the summer out in style with one last long sailing trip on Grace. We planned for several weeks ahead of time to go further than we had all summer, and the trip was scheduled from August 28-31st. Unfortunately, mother nature had other plans… The forecast called for significant winds, but we had hoped to beat them on Friday and make it at least to Winslow. We got a super late start, and the winds had already built, so we couldn’t leave. The winds quickly built, and by noon we were seeing sustained winds of 40 knots (45 mph) in the marina, with gusts close to 60. The video at the top of this post shows the height of the storm, with gusts around 50 kts, boats moving around more than I have ever seen, and lots and lots of terrible noises. Elliott Bay Marina has a breakwater to the south, the direction the storm was coming from, and we were at a pretty high tide, leaving us pretty exposed. Many boats had halyards loose, and three boats had foresails that were being literally shredded by the wind. We couldn’t get to their docks but other folks were trying to help. ![Sustained winds in the marina!](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0342.jpg) Sustained winds in the marina! We eventually lost shore power, but that’s the beauty of being on the boat – pretty much independent power as long as we have the engine to recharge things. The rest of Seattle wasn’t so lucky… ![11898545_10207648717680963_7484124402636201374_n](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/11898545_10207648717680963_7484124402636201374_n-1.jpg) Husband Josh was in Birch Bay with some friends, where they lost power and reverted back to primeval days for 2 whole days. I don’t know how he did it… ![IMG_0331](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0331.jpg) We ventured out to check out the destruction, and ended up stopping at the Salmon Bay Cafe, the best place in Seattle for chicken fried steak. So good! The rest of the weekend was spent doing random boat projects, enjoying the amazing storm winds and rain, listening to crazy people out in the storm on boats, and having power and air conditioning when most of the rest of the city was without power or some other part of their utilities. Many games were played as well, including an epic Jenga tower built by yours truly: ![Jenga monster](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0352.jpg) Jenga monster It helps that JJ is also OCD like me, especially when organizing your winnings. We refined various card games, and added some new ones, as well as figured out some new ways to use Grace for playing games. Learning every trip, even if we never leave. ![Card games on Grace](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0359.jpg) Card games on Grace The end of the weekend saw a beautiful sunset, along with even more great times on our staycation. I think we had the best front row seats for the storm, and ended up being able to hang out and have fun without dealing with power outages! ![Sunset at EBM](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0362.jpg) Sunset at EBM ### Back to Winslow Wharf @ Bainbridge URL: https://seabits.com/back-to-winslow-wharf-bainbridge/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:18:00.000Z We seem to have fallen in love with Bainbridge Island, specifically Winslow Wharf Marina. It’s so easy to get there from Elliott Bay Marina, and feels like you’re just out for an afternoon sail. It seems lazy, but after a year of hard work on a major work project, and selling Jammy and purchasing Grace, I’m OK with short trips for now! A few days before I had [Jones Detailing](http://www.jonesdetailing.com/?ref=seabits.com) give Grace a deep cleaning and polish on the hull and elsewhere. They did a great job, and ended up warping the boat around stern-in to be able to complete the work. It was quite a surprise to arrive to her oriented that way in the slip, but I like it. I don’t think I’m ready to back her in this way, but I’d like to learn! Some folks have said you just stand behind the binnacle the opposite way facing the stern, and steer that way. I’m sure that helps orientation-wise, but the bigger issue I’ve found with Grace is her steerage underway while in reverse. Of course she walks just like every other sailboat I’ve owned, but she is also super sluggish at turning at all while in reverse, I assume because the rudder is further forward, and mostly because of the big stern. Would love to hear from other Beneteau owners and how they fare with this… ![Grace stern-in at the marina. I wish I could do this myself!](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0161.jpg) Grace stern-in at the marina. I wish I could do this myself! ![IMG_0187](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0187.jpg) Blakely Rocks with a Washington State Ferry from Bremerton, and Mount Rainier. Timing is everything! JJ joined me as crew again, and we had an uneventful trip over to Bainbridge, with some amazing scenery along the way. The wind was 10kts and variable, but enough to scoot us along well without having to work too hard. The trip in the passage to Winslow was busy, and we passed one of the big Bainbridge-to-Seattle ferries full of tourists. I always have wondered how many people take pictures of my boat, being that I pass these constantly when sailing. Am I part of people’s weird photo albums from all around the world? I hope not… The dock at Winslow Wharf was a different slip than [last time](https://seabits.com/grace-first-official-trip-and-a-rescue/), but it was still a great location, with hardly anyone around us in the evenings. ![Grace at Winslow Wharf again](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0199.jpg) Grace at Winslow Wharf again We spent two nights here, hanging out, enjoying the air conditioning (I don’t even have that at home!) and playing lots of games. Doc’s was frequented a lot again, and we went to our favorite Mexican place up the hill. Sunday afternoon we headed out the channel back towards Blake Island and caught a mooring ball. Our neighbors were fun to watch – one set of them decided to swim to shore, which was a cold affair. After only about an hour, we both were getting super seasick from tons of power boats going by generating waves. ![On the east side of Blake on a mooring ball](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0225.jpg) On the east side of Blake on a mooring ball We motored home, enjoyed the air conditioning at the dock, took a nap, and went home. Another successful overnight on Grace – I kept learning more and more about what I wanted to update/change or fix so that folks are more comfortable, and the boat was more usable from my perspective. Projects are a’ comin! ### Bainbridge Island, our favorite place in 2015 URL: https://seabits.com/bainbridge-island-our-favorite-place-in-2015/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:19:29.000Z Bainbridge Island, specifically [Winslow Wharf Marina](http://winslowwharf.com/?ref=seabits.com), has become our favorite place to visit this last year. [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) was brand new, so shaking out all of the bugs and getting used to things was a priority. Winslow Wharf Marina is only about an hour by motor from our home marina, Elliott Bay Marina. I think we visited here at least 5 times this season, if not even more! ![IMG_0100](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0100.jpg) Josh in the cockpit enjoying the sun! This weekend was great weather-wise, and it was one of the first times that Josh was able to come along on a trip without tons of extra people, which was very important to me! It was also a huge full moon, which we were able to see while sitting in the cockpit on the warm summer night. ![IMG_0113](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0113.jpg) One of our favorite things about Winslow is [Doc’s Marina Grill](http://docsgrill.com/?ref=seabits.com#homePage), specifically their Chicken Fried Steak. It has to be one of the top 3 that I’ve ever eaten! The return trip was not as fun, as there was hardly any wind, so motoring was the primary method for movement. We explored a bit of the Blakely Rocks and headed back home, a restful weekend had by all! ![IMG_0115](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/08/IMG_0115.jpg) ### Grace first official trip and a rescue! URL: https://seabits.com/grace-first-official-trip-and-a-rescue/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:19:42.000Z The first official sailing adventure with our new sailboat [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/) was planned for 3 days – Friday through Sunday – in mid July. As Josh was already somewhere else, I conscripted my best friend JJ, and another close friend Heather to be my crew. Our trip would start at Elliott Bay Marina, end up for one night at Poulsbo, and then conclude at Winslow Wharf Marina on Bainbridge Island. The trip started out with almost losing a crew member, fantastic weather, and a close pass by a big Navy destroyer, but then quickly took a turn as we made our way under 20kts of wind and 8+ knots of water speed towards the tip of Bainbridge Island… This was my first time leaving the marina with Grace after purchase and moving her. She tends to back fine, but control is sluggish. While fighting with that, Heather was using the boat hook to push us off a boat that was nearby, and slipped, her body folding over the lifelines. Thankfully she stayed on the boat, but the bruises were going to hurt! She lost her favorite set of sunglasses too, right in front of my slip neighbors. Not the best way to start the day. Grace was sailing extremely fast from the tip of Discovery Park / Magnolia towards the north end of Bainbridge Island. We were positively flying, and I was getting used to adjusting the sails. In retrospect compared to what I’ve seen elsewhere about this year/model/rig of Beneteau, I should have probably thrown in a reef on the main. In fact, we only had the main out, and were cruising along at 8 knots! I was already in love with the way she sailed. Several large containerships had gone by, and we’d hit huge waves generated from them, one big enough to break a mount on the cockpit table, and generally get everyone wet. Suffice to say, the crew was a bit apprehensive about the size of the waves. The normal waves were 1-3 feet and building, but Grace dealt with those just fine. As we got to the north end of Bainbridge Island, near Port Madison, I saw in the distance a strange sight on the edge of the shipping lanes. It was about 2 miles away but I could still make out something very odd moving on the water. I have fantastic sight, and the rest of the crew couldn’t see much. After getting out the binocs, I was able to see two people who appeared to be standing on the water, and immediately knew they were on a capsized boat. I ordered the crew to take over specific roles – neither of them had really ever been involved with anything like this before. JJ was responsible for watching the people through the binoculars no matter what, and pointing them out when needed. Heather was assisting me in dropping the sails and stowing everything in case we needed to render assistance. We quickly began to motor at maximum speed towards them. As we got closer, it was clearly obvious that they were capsized, and that things were serious. Upon arriving on scene, I attempted to communicate with what looked like the captain, but he was very dazed and confused. His 7-8 year old son was sitting next to him on the top of their vessel. While it was July in Puget Sound, the water temperature was less than 60F and they had been in the water at least for 30 minutes, if not longer. I saw no PFD’s, no radio or other communication device. All around the boat there was debris and lines, rigging and other things that looked like a nightmare to get close to. We didn’t have a dinghy so we couldn’t render aid that way, but we prepared blankets, PFD’s, and more in case. I had been on the VHF with the Coast Guard advising them of the situation, that there were people in the water, and a vessel overturned that was a hazard, drifting towards the lanes. Heather was piloting the boat in good circles around the wreckage, JJ was on watch, and I was below communicating on the VHF, albeit poorly because of problems with the radio. After 30 minutes on site, circling the wreckage, asking repeatedly if they wanted assistance, and actually getting within 10 feet several times, throwing them ropes to come aboard, another small sailboat sailed right into the mess of lines and crashed into their boat. We were completely taken by surprise. We attempted to communicate with this vessel as well, but the captain wanted nothing to do with us, even telling us to go away, which we were \*\*not \*\*about to do. We were drifting towards the shipping channels, and the wind was increasing. ![FullSizeRender_7](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/FullSizeRender_7.jpg) Vessel capsized with rescuing vessel nearby and fouled in their lines. I was continuing to communicate with the Coast Guard, and tried to get the new captain who was obviously trying to help them to give us info on the survivors. Within about 20 minutes he was able to get them on board his vessel, but he was now hopelessly mired in their rigging, having approached from downwind instead of using the clear upwind path that we had tried, and advised over the radio. The rescued captain and his son had no shirts, only shorts, and looked positively freezing. They were very dazed and didn’t respond to our communications. We got extremely close a number of times (at least 5) to the new boat and offered blankets, clothes, etc. but the new captain yelled at us to get away and actually threw stuff at us. What is this guys deal! These people are probably massively hypothermic, and they need attention right away. His boat has **no cabin** and no protection, so they are going to continue to be exposed to the wind and not get warmer. We circled for almost an hour, offering help, continuing to communicate with the Coast Guard, who asked for pictures and other reference information. To our shock, the new captain first cut himself free, and then proceeded to spend 30 minutes connecting himself to the boat to tow it. Their destination was 5+ miles **across the active shipping lanes** to Shilshole. His boat had a 5hp motor that looked like they’d make 1-2kts while towing. ![Vessel under tow. You can see the former captain of the vessel and his son crouched in the small boat.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/FullSizeRender_6.jpg) Vessel under tow. You can see the former captain of the vessel and his son crouched in the small boat. In all the years I’ve sailed, I’ve never seen anyone refuse help that was so readily available, and make terrible choices with two people who clearly needed medical attention. We tried so many times to offer them help, even got right up to the boat and said we’d jump over and help them come aboard, but the new captain of the rescue boat wanted nothing to do with it. By now, I’d been on the VHF for an hour and a half, and there were 5 other boats in the near vicinity watching. It was also 3pm on a busy boating Friday, and tons of people were listening in. We followed them towing the boat for another 25 minutes or so, and then advised the Coast Guard we were going to break off our support on-site and proceed to our original destination, Poulsbo. It took a long time for the adrenaline to wear off, but I will never forget the look in the captain’s face, his son crying, and the “rescuer” who probably did more harm than help. It was interesting to note that this appeared to be a home made craft of very odd design, potentially unballasted, only with a centerboard. We saw it roll over partially several times, and it looked sort of like a flat bottomed mini-barge with a big cabin, single sail and headsail, and odd design. With the winds blowing at 15kts gusting upwards to 20-25, and 1-3 foot waves, plus the huge waves from the container ships, I don’t think they ever had a chance sailing out across the channel. ![Motoring to Poulsbo after the rescue attempt](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/IMG_0005.jpg) Motoring to Poulsbo after the rescue attempt We motored on to Poulsbo, arriving hours after our expected arrival, but knowing we did everything we could to help them. I hope they got home OK and recovered from their ordeal. I never heard, even though we gave our contact info, pictures, WN numbers for the rescuing vessel (the capsized one didn’t have one!) and more to the Coast Guard. After a few hours at the dock, we were approached by two different groups of people asking if we were “that Grace that was on the radio all afternoon”. Apparently the majority of the folks at the marina and on the water were listening to our conversation and following the drama. Makes sense since we were on VHF 16/22 for that long, and most folks (as they should!) monitor those channels. By this point, we needed a drink (or two) and to relax, which was easy to do at Poulsbo. At the same time, the Poulsbo Police were walking up and down the dock, asking folks if they wanted a free inspection for safety, etc. which we declined. We’d had enough drama for one day. What was amusing was that our slip neighbors, you know, the ones that watched us back out of the slip like amateurs, and Heather nearly fall over, were right across from us at Poulsbo! ![IMG_0006](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/IMG_0006.jpg) Drinks were mandatory The sunset was fantastic – one of the best I have seen in a long time. Pictures never do these justice, but here’s one anyhow! ![Sunset at Poulsbo](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/IMG_0007.jpg) Sunset at Poulsbo The first overnight trip for Grace went well, everyone was comfortable, the air conditioning was the hit of the evening, and we played cards and enjoyed ourselves late into the night. ![On the dock at Poulsbo. First trip anywhere for Grace!](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/IMG_0010.jpg) On the dock at Poulsbo. First trip anywhere for Grace! ![Sailing down the channel on the east side of Bainbridge towards Winslow](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/IMG_0012.jpg) Sailing down the channel on the east side of Bainbridge towards Winslow The next day we enjoyed Poulsbo and all it has to offer for part of the day, and then began our journey back out through Agate Pass and down to Winslow on the opposite side of Bainbridge. The crew saw all sorts of swimming things, and we generally enjoyed the sail, albeit slower than the day before. At Blakely Rocks, we sucked up all the sails, and motored in to our spot at [Winslow Wharf Marina](http://winslowwharf.com/?ref=seabits.com), which I hadn’t been to in years. Within the last year, it had gone through a total remodel, and the docks were absolutely fantastic. ![IMG_0023](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/IMG_0023.jpg) Grace at Winslow Wharf Marina The marina is easy to navigate when looking for your slip – I appreciate that they have clear signage on the end docks, unlike many other marinas who have let this slip over the years. Our spot was the second to the last slip from the shore, and on the farthest float, right up against an elevated walkway for another marina. Both JJ and Heather were a bit worried about docking so far in, and not having a lot of room to maneuver, but I put Grace right in against the dock without anyone having to step off, and made it look like I’d owned her for years! She’s super controllable when docking going forward – reverse is a totally different matter with that fat, flat back end! Our favorite place is [Doc’s Marina Grill](http://docsgrill.com/?ref=seabits.com), with it’s fantastic steaks at night, and absolutely essential chicken fried steak and mimosa’s in the morning. We had a fantastic time hanging out, watching the Sounders game at Doc’s, playing cards, and generally enjoying life. The next day we motored out of Winslow, avoiding the ferries and other traffic, and down past the point to Blake Island, one of my favorite quick spots to visit from the home marina. We picked up a mooring ball on the east side of the island, and just lounged in the sun, stuck our feet off the stern (a first!) and waited out the usual Sunday rush back to the marina. ![Cooling off near Blake Island](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/IMG_0028.jpg) Cooling off near Blake Island Around 5pm we headed back to Elliott Bay Marina under motor, and hung out at the dock with the air conditioning going strong until about 8pm. Everyone dispersed and went home after a successful first voyage for Grace, along with a bit of excitement! I hope future trips are just as fun, but without the drama! ### Moving Grace to her new home URL: https://seabits.com/moving-grace-to-her-new-home/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:19:57.000Z After a [successful survey of Grace](https://seabits.com/grace-a-new-member-of-our-family/), we had a limited amount of time to move her from Lake Union at the Signature Yachts dock out to her new permanent home, [Elliott Bay Marina](http://www.elliottbaymarina.net/?ref=seabits.com). I had been a tenant of theirs for about 8 years with my previous sailboat Jammy, and kept the same slip for [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/), which was very convenient. The trip would be pretty stressful for this new captain for two reasons: First, while I did get to poke around Grace for a couple days prior to the trip, I’d never sailed her by myself without the broker. She was a new boat to me. Second, we would need to do this from Lake Union, a rather busy place, through the [Ballard Locks](http://www.nws.usace.army.mil/Missions/CivilWorks/LocksandDams/ChittendenLocks.aspx?ref=seabits.com), and out to Elliott Bay Marina. The lake and the locks are a busy place, especially on a July day. I ended up planning the trip to start very early on a Sunday which was less likely to be busy. Along for the first official ride were a host of friends, and of course husband Josh. He has a lot of traumatic memories of going through the locks from growing up on a sailboat, so I wanted things to be as stress free as possible. After backing her out of a tight space on the Signature Yachts docks, right near a bunch of houseboats, we got underway and proceeded to open the Fremont and Ballard bridges to pass underneath. The crew, some of which had never experienced this, all loved it. Many Instagram and Facebook posts were made with photos of us delaying Sunday morning drivers by raising the bridges. On reaching the locks, we tied up at the pier waiting for our opportunity to come in. After hearing two other recreational boats communicate with the lock masters on VHF radio and ensure they were in the list of people, I did the same, only to be told to get off the frequency. If there is one group of people in all of Puget Sound I wish could be lectured by recreational boaters, it would be the lock masters at the Ballard Locks. They treat people terribly, and inconsistently. I’ve passed through the locks many times in my years, and have been made to feel a complete idiot when I am doing exactly what they ask, and have a prepared crew. I have seen them do this to other boaters who are also obviously prepared. Even professional captains, and yacht brokers that I’ve talked to get the same treatment. I get that the locks are primarily for commercial folks, but the reality is that recreational boating generates millions, if not more, dollars in taxes and other profits. The Puget Sound is one of the busiest places in all of the US for boat usage, and everyone benefits from it in money and selling more services. I realize the US Army Corps of Engineers runs the locks, and they probably don’t get a ton of that money, but we are customers of theirs, and pay taxes to keep them employed. It would be nice if someone in management there reminded them of that once in a while. We transited through the locks without any issues, even had a friendly guy in a tiny dinghy tied up to us who was going out to catch some crab. We took our time heading down to EBM and made our way over towards Bainbridge Island while having a moving lunch. Josh even took the helm for a while, with Heather watching over him. ![IMG_1480](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/IMG_1480.jpg) It was a wonderfully warm day, and we spent until around 5pm on the water, after starting our day at 9am, so we headed to the marina, and after a bit of learning on docking, made safe for the evening. After shuttling people back and forth to the original marina, we went home knowing that Grace was safe and sound in her new home. ### Grace, a new member of our family URL: https://seabits.com/grace-a-new-member-of-our-family/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:20:17.000Z After our [Final trip on Jammy](https://seabits.com/final-trip-on-jammy/), I began looking for the next member of our sailing family. I had already been looking prior to the final trip, but not seriously. After only a few weeks, I stumbled across a beautiful 2000 Beneteau 311 named Grace, listed at [Signature Yachts](http://signature-yachts.com/?ref=seabits.com) here in Seattle, only a few minutes away from home or work. I have always admired Beneteaus, and for years have wanted to own one, but always assumed they were out of my price range, or that there were things about them that I wouldn’t like. The last two years I had spent looking mostly at Benetau and Jenneau yachts, and had learned a lot about their sailing properties, interior room (spacious and tall!) and their build processes. I had fallen in love with the Beneteau’s in particular. I emailed the broker, and was able to see her the next day. I knew the moment I stepped aboard that this was my next boat. With Jammy it was the same way – I saw a ton of other sailboats, but the moment I stepped on her, I knew. ![20150701-grace-37](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/20150701-grace-37.jpg) Starboard view of Grace ![20150701-grace-47_DxO](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/20150701-grace-47_DxO.jpg) One of my favorite parts of Grace – the big wide transom and cockpit area. ![Grace's beautiful interior](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/20150701-grace-55.jpg) Grace’s beautiful interior ![Fantastic cockpit space!](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/20150701-grace-4.jpg) Fantastic cockpit space! After poking through here twice with the patient broker, visiting a number of times, and talking with Josh about how we could make this happen on the money side, I put money down and sent over an offer to the owners. They immediately responded with an acceptance, and we were onto the next step of a test sail. John Sanford of [Sanford Marine Surveys](http://sanfordmarinesurveys.com/?ref=seabits.com) was my surveyor. I had previously had McEwen and Associates survey Jammy, but the original owner had retired, and John being one of the surveyors employed there, struck out on his own. John was great during the survey, and let me ask tons of questions and get my head into every nook and cranny that he looked in. Only a tiny list of items were found, mostly things I expected, and all easily repairable by me. Our test sail itself was exhilarating on Lake Union on a late afternoon in the summer – the winds were steady at 15 kts gusting to 25, and we had all of the sails out scooting along at over 8 knots! The haul out was similarly boring, with only a zinc needing to be replaced. ![20150701-grace-15](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/07/20150701-grace-15.jpg) Grace in the slings being inspected during survey After a successful survey, and the usual bits and pieces with the title company, in mid July, Grace was ours! I’m so excited to start this new chapter of our sailing lives, and enjoy a bigger boat with more amenities and space for more guests and fun alike! Lots more photos at my [SmugMug gallery](http://photos.sailbits.com/Grace/Sale/?ref=seabits.com). ### Solar panel update URL: https://seabits.com/solar-panel-update/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:20:37.000Z A while ago I wrote about my [solar panel setup](https://seabits.com/solar-learning-curve). I recently revisited the site after 6 months, and lots of problems with managing things remotely. There were a couple of problems. First, the wireless repeater system that I was using took far more power than advertised, and was depleting the single battery, and the second issue was the panel wasn’t getting enough sun to charge the battery. So after a lot of research over the last few months, I opted to build a tripod, move the panel out into a field where there is far more sun, and double the battery capacity. Just in the first few days, the panel gathered more power than in the first **2 weeks** of the previous location. Of course, it was also winter, so that was working against things. But I think this location will even be able to keep up with demands in the winter. I’ve been able to fine tune the new wireless AP from Peplink/Pepwave (more on that in another post) and use the small RMS board (more on that too!) to control things coming on/off when there’s actually solar power flowing in, so we should be barely using any power at all at night. Even the attached Dropcam powers on and off with the available sunlight. So far in the last month of operation it has been working perfectly, and actually has surplus power. I’m happy with the modifications, and have learned a lot about battery size and location, location, location with solar power. ### Final trip on Jammy URL: https://seabits.com/final-trip-on-jammy/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:20:50.000Z This weekend’s trip was with Josh, Heather and myself on Jammy, and was planned to be an uneventful, easy trip to one of our favorite destinations, Poulsbo. I’ve been there tons of times before, and Josh and I have been there a few times in the last year. This was Heather’s first overnight trip on Jammy, however, and I was worried about the cramped conditions and oddities that I had become used to over the years. The biggest concerns were sleeping locations and the limited cockpit space that we’d have to deal with while getting to Poulsbo. ![IMG_1161](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/06/IMG_1161.jpg) J. Crew ad, anyone? The weather was wonderful, and both Heather and Josh decided that they’d hang out on the bow while we motored out of the marina and got situated for sailing. I think this looks like a J. Crew ad myself…. Once clear of the various ships, ferries and other dangers of Elliott Bay, we raised sails, and made our way to the north end of Bainbridge Island, timing our approach to go under the Agate Pass bridge and through the fast moving waters there. Sails came down while we transited this area, and we moved onwards towards the turn into the channel to Poulsbo. That’s where the first problem occurred. The engine had an ominous light lit on the control panel that indicates a major oil issue, complete with alarm blaring. ![Motoring under the Agate Pass bridge](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/06/20150606-jammy-16.jpg) Motoring under the Agate Pass bridge After a bit of troubleshooting, I determined that we should not run the engine very long at all, which presented some problems to get to Poulsbo given the narrow nature of the channel. Sure, it can be sailed, but it requires a ton of work to get through the various legs, and we had already been sailing for most of the day messing around out in the main channel, and I was tired! So after getting out extra anchors in case of complete engine failure, along with other extra safety gear, and briefing the crew on various scenarios, we motored carefully and slowly the rest of the way into Poulsbo. We had a wonderful dinner, and enjoyed a fantastic sunset, as is expected while on the water in Puget Sound during the summer. ![IMG_0982](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/06/IMG_0982.jpg) ![IMG_0985](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/06/IMG_0985.jpg) We also played cards late into the night, one of our favorite pastimes on the boat. ![IMG_0990](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/06/IMG_0990.jpg) The next day I spent hours messing with the engine trying to fully understand why the oil alarm was going off, to no avail. The oil had been religiously changed by yours truly every year, if not more frequently depending on use. There were no leaks, no issues, no problems found anywhere else, but Volvo’s manual insisted that this error was serious and to not use the engine for long periods of time. After chatting with some folks online, I was unable to resolve it, and of course as many boat things go, it disappeared from the alarm panel magically without me doing anything. Later after getting home, and having the Volvo dealer do a diagnostic, they found nothing wrong, and don’t know why the alarm was set off. Their only idea was that perhaps we were running the engine at high RPM’s, and heeled to far, causing the suction of the oil to fall below normal requirements and cause the alarm. We were being blown around a bit at the time, but I’ve been out in Jammy that way many times before. Why was this the last time we sailed on Jammy? It wasn’t one thing – by this time I had owned Jammy for almost 11 years, and had sailed all around Puget Sound, had many projects on her, and knew her like the back of my hand. It came down to one main thing – I outgrew her. Sleeping on her was like camping, and resulted in you being more tired every day. Moving around in her caused bumps and bruises all the time, for everyone. The cockpit was a sailor’s cockpit, more like even a racer’s cockpit – not conducive to conversations, or even comfortable seating. 2 people worked OK, 3 was difficult especially if you needed to tack. The engine issue didn’t cause this – I trust her engine having had her repowered only a few years prior, but it was time for us to part ways. She was just not what me, Josh, and all of our friends, needed in our life right now. It was a sad moment, but also a very clear moment, when we docked at Elliott Bay Marina and I told her that I knew things were over. Josh and Heather thought it was a little weird, but I think they knew it too – our time was over. Only a few weeks later, after cleaning her up, she was sold, and we had a new member to our family, [Grace](https://seabits.com/grace/). But Jammy rekindled my love of sail back in 2004, and will always be fondly remembered for the hundreds of miles she bore me safely, and tons of projects and fun that I had with her. ![IMG_0969](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/06/IMG_0969.jpg) Jammy on our final trip moored at Poulsbo ### NMEA 2000 bus data and SignalK URL: https://seabits.com/nmea-2000-bus-data-and-signalk/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:21:41.000Z A while ago I wrote about my [SignalK first look](https://seabits.com/signalk-first-look/) experience, and the captures I had taken to help the dev team with various systems and instruments they might not have direct access to. I decided to dig a bit deeper into the amount of data that was on my NMEA 2000 bus since I was surprised at some of the errors and issues they uncovered with [SignalK](http://signalk.org/?ref=seabits.com), and wanted to make sure there weren’t any problems with my bus or devices. I set out to analyze the data I had captured during my first look experiments, and subsequent playings with SignalK… I analyzed as much of it as I could, and even broke out my [Maretron N2KMeter](http://www.maretron.com/products/n2kmeter.php?ref=seabits.com) to see what was going on. I found some misbehaving members of the network, and ended up contacting the vendors to see if they had a fix, which they did. The primary offender was a Maretron heading sensor which was sending too frequent updates, against the configuration that I had in place. SignalK seems to be catching on all over the place. One of my favorite blogs, The Marine Installer’s Rant, did a great overview of SignalK and what it is in [SignalK FAQ’s](http://themarineinstallersrant.blogspot.com/2015/05/signal-k-faqs.html?ref=seabits.com). I highly recommend reading this if you’re interested in an intro. Below is a capture of less than a second’s data on my NMEA 2000 bus. It is a bit hard to read, but you can see the frequent updates from the engine, AC & DC monitors, compass, AIS, depth, speed, and weather sensors. So much data! ``` 2015-01-15-16:13:02.778 3 192 255 65014 Utility Phase A Basic AC Quantities: Line-Line AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; Line-Neutral AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; AC RMS Current = 11 A 2015-01-15-16:13:02.778 2 245 255 129025 Position, Rapid Update: Latitude = 47.6292119; Longitude = -122.3891033 2015-01-15-16:13:02.778 2 245 255 129026 COG & SOG, Rapid Update: SID = 180; COG Reference = True; COG = Unknown; SOG = 0.00 m/s 2015-01-15-16:13:02.778 2 17 255 127488 Engine Parameters, Rapid Update: Engine Instance = Single Engine or Dual Engine Port; Engine Speed = 0.0 rpm; Engine Tilt/Trim = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.778 2 2 255 129026 COG & SOG, Rapid Update: SID = 21; COG Reference = True; COG = 0.0 deg; SOG = 0.05 m/s 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 3 192 255 65015 Utility Total AC Reactive Power: Reactive Power = 0 var; Power Factor Lagging = Lagging 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 2 17 255 127245 Rudder: Instance = 0; Direction Order = Unknown; Angle Order = -0.0 deg; Position = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 4 43 255 129038 AIS Class A Position Report: Message ID = 1; Repeat Indicator = Initial; User ID = 367030568; Longitude = -122.3791965; Latitude = 47.6588466; Position Accuracy = Low; RAIM = not in use; Time Stamp = 1; COG = 222.6 deg; SOG = 0.00 m/s; Communication State = 0x18039; AIS Transceiver information = Channel A VDL r eception; Heading = Unknown; Rate of Turn = Unknown; Nav Status = Under way using engine; Regional Application = 0 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 5 36 255 130312 Temperature: SID = Unknown; Temperature Instance = 0; Temperature Source = Sea Temperature 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 3 36 255 128267 Water Depth: SID = 57; Depth = 6.73 m; Offset = -0.610 m 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 7 36 255 65408 Airmar: Depth Quality Factor: Manufacturer Code = Airmar; Industry Code = Marine Industry; SID = 57; Depth Quality Factor = 10 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 7 36 255 65409 Manufacturer Proprietary single-frame non-addressed: Manufacturer Code = Airmar; Industry Code = Marine; Data = 0xff000003e8ff 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 7 36 255 65410 Airmar: Device Information: Manufacturer Code = Airmar; Industry Code = Marine Industry; SID = 58; Internal Device Temperature = 17.44 C (63.4 F); Supply Voltage = 12.98 V 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 2 36 255 128259 Speed: SID = 58; Speed Water Referenced = 0.00 m/s; Speed Ground Referenced = Unknown; Speed Water Referenced Type = Paddle wheel 2015-01-15-16:13:02.779 5 36 255 130310 Environmental Parameters: SID = 116 2015-01-15-16:13:02.780 3 192 255 65016 Utility Total AC Power: Real Power = 1253 W; Apparent Power = 1253 VA 2015-01-15-16:13:02.780 6 36 255 128275 Distance Log: Log = 207.397 km; Trip Log = 207.397 km 2015-01-15-16:13:02.780 5 41 255 130311 Environmental Parameters: SID = 157; Temperature Source = Inside Temperature; Humidity Source = Unknown; Temperature = 13.14 C (55.7 F); Humidity = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.780 5 41 255 130311 Environmental Parameters: SID = 157; Temperature Source = Engine Room Temperature; Humidity Source = Unknown; Temperature = 7.78 C (46.0 F); Humidity = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.780 5 41 255 130311 Environmental Parameters: SID = 157; Temperature Source = Main Cabin Temperature; Humidity Source = Unknown; Temperature = 16.66 C (62.0 F); Humidity = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.780 0 0 0 262386 Actisense: System status: SID = 1; Model ID = 14; Serial ID = 111036; Error ID = 0; Indi channel count = 2; Ch1 Rx Bandwidth = 19; Ch1 Rx Load = 4; Ch1 Rx Filtered = 0; Ch1 Rx Dropped = 0; Ch1 Tx Bandwidth = 0; Ch1 Tx Load = 0; Ch2 Rx Bandwidth = 0; Ch2 Rx Load = 0; Ch2 Rx Filtered = 0; Ch2 Rx Dropped = 0; Ch2 Tx Bandwidth = 46; Ch2 Tx Load = 98; Uni channel count = 2; Ch1 Bandwidth = 11; Ch1 Deleted = 0; Ch1 BufferLoading = 2; Ch1 PointerLoading = 6; Ch2 Bandwidth = 16; Ch2 Deleted = 0; Ch2 BufferLoading = 0; Ch2 PointerLoading = 0 2015-01-15-16:13:02.780 2 3 255 65280 Manufacturer Proprietary single-frame non-addressed: Manufacturer Code = Navico; Industry Code = Marine; Data = 0x200000504 2015-01-15-16:13:02.780 2 2 255 129025 Position, Rapid Update: Latitude = 47.6292158; Longitude = -122.3891621 2015-01-15-16:13:02.780 4 43 255 129038 AIS Class A Position Report: Message ID = 1; Repeat Indicator = Initial; User ID = 367058210; Longitude = -122.3565565; Latitude = 47.5729983; Position Accuracy = Low; RAIM = not in use; Time Stamp = 1; COG = 28.5 deg; SOG = 0.00 m/s; Communication State = 0x803a; AIS Transceiver information = Channel B VDL rec eption; Heading = Unknown; Rate of Turn = Unknown; Nav Status = Under way using engine; Regional Application = 0 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 3 17 255 128267 Water Depth: SID = Unknown; Depth = Unknown; Offset = -0.001 m 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 3 192 255 65012 Utility Phase A AC Reactive Power: Reactive Power = 0 var; Power Factor Lagging = Lagging 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 3 192 255 65013 Utility Phase A AC Power: Real Power = 1253 W; Apparent Power = 1253 VA 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 3 192 255 65017 Utility Average Basic AC Quantities: Line-Line AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; Line-Neutral AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; AC RMS Current = 11 A 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 3 192 255 65005 Utility Total AC Energy: Total Energy Export = 5425 kWh; Total Energy Import = 0 kWh 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 2 98 255 127250 Vessel Heading: SID = 123; Heading = 235.1 deg; Deviation = 0.0 deg; Variation = Unknown; Reference = Magnetic 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 2 98 255 127251 Rate of Turn: SID = 123; Rate = -0.137653 deg/s 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 2 130 255 130306 Wind Data: SID = 68; Wind Speed = 0.58 m/s; Wind Angle = 221.7 deg; Reference = Apparent 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 3 192 255 65014 Utility Phase A Basic AC Quantities: Line-Line AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; Line-Neutral AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; AC RMS Current = 11 A 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 3 192 255 65015 Utility Total AC Reactive Power: Reactive Power = 0 var; Power Factor Lagging = Lagging 2015-01-15-16:13:02.781 2 17 255 127489 Engine Parameters, Dynamic: Engine Instance = Single Engine or Dual Engine Port; Temperature = 6.85 C (44.3 F); Alternator Potential = 13.75 V; Fuel Rate = -0.1 L/h; Total Engine hours = 309600 s; Fuel Pressure = Unknown; Discrete Status 1 = -0 ,0=Check Engine,1=Over Temperature,2=Low Oil Pressure,3=Low Oil Lev el,4=Low Fuel Pressure,5=Low System Voltage,6=Low Coolant Level,7=Water Flow,8=Water In Fuel,9=Charge Indicator,10=Preheat Indicator,11=High Boost Pressure,12=Rev Limit Exceeded,13=EGR System,14=Throttle Position Sensor,15=Emergency Stop; Discrete Status 2 = -0 ,0=Warning Level 1,1=Warning Level 2,2=Power Reduction,3=Maintenance Needed,4=Engine Comm Er ror,5=Sub or Secondary Throttle,6=Neutral Start Protect,7=Engine Shutting Down; Percent Engine Load = -1; Percent Engine Torque = -1 2015-01-15-16:13:02.782 2 17 255 127245 Rudder: Instance = 0; Direction Order = Unknown; Angle Order = -0.0 deg; Position = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.782 3 192 255 65016 Utility Total AC Power: Real Power = 1253 W; Apparent Power = 1253 VA 2015-01-15-16:13:02.782 2 17 255 127488 Engine Parameters, Rapid Update: Engine Instance = Single Engine or Dual Engine Port; Engine Speed = 0.0 rpm; Engine Tilt/Trim = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.782 2 2 255 129025 Position, Rapid Update: Latitude = 47.6292158; Longitude = -122.3891621 2015-01-15-16:13:02.782 3 192 255 65012 Utility Phase A AC Reactive Power: Reactive Power = 0 var; Power Factor Lagging = Lagging 2015-01-15-16:13:02.782 3 192 255 65013 Utility Phase A AC Power: Real Power = 1253 W; Apparent Power = 1253 VA 2015-01-15-16:13:02.782 3 192 255 65017 Utility Average Basic AC Quantities: Line-Line AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; Line-Neutral AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; AC RMS Current = 11 A 2015-01-15-16:13:02.782 3 192 255 65005 Utility Total AC Energy: Total Energy Export = 5425 kWh; Total Energy Import = 0 kWh 2015-01-15-16:13:02.782 2 98 255 127250 Vessel Heading: SID = 127; Heading = 235.2 deg; Deviation = 0.0 deg; Variation = Unknown; Reference = Magnetic 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 2 98 255 127251 Rate of Turn: SID = 127; Rate = -0.135802 deg/s 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 2 130 255 130306 Wind Data: SID = 72; Wind Speed = 0.65 m/s; Wind Angle = 224.0 deg; Reference = Apparent 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 3 192 255 65014 Utility Phase A Basic AC Quantities: Line-Line AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; Line-Neutral AC RMS Voltage = 117 V; AC RMS Current = 11 A 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 5 17 255 130310 Environmental Parameters: SID = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 3 192 255 65015 Utility Total AC Reactive Power: Reactive Power = 0 var; Power Factor Lagging = Lagging 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 2 17 255 127245 Rudder: Instance = 0; Direction Order = Unknown; Angle Order = -0.0 deg; Position = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 2 245 255 129025 Position, Rapid Update: Latitude = 47.6292119; Longitude = -122.3891034 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 3 192 255 65016 Utility Total AC Power: Real Power = 1253 W; Apparent Power = 1253 VA 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 2 17 255 127488 Engine Parameters, Rapid Update: Engine Instance = Single Engine or Dual Engine Port; Engine Speed = 0.0 rpm; Engine Tilt/Trim = Unknown 2015-01-15-16:13:02.783 2 245 255 129026 COG & SOG, Rapid Update: SID = 183; COG Reference = True; COG = Unknown; SOG = 0.00 m/s 2015-01-15-16:13:02.784 7 2 255 127258 Magnetic Variation: SID = 21; Source = Unknown; Variation = 16.1 deg 2015-01-15-16:13:02.784 7 4 255 127258 Magnetic Variation: SID = 20; Source = Unknown; Variation = 16.1 deg 2015-01-15-16:13:02.784 2 2 255 129025 Position, Rapid Update: Latitude = 47.6292158; Longitude = -122.3891621 ``` ### Maretron SMS100 Review URL: https://seabits.com/maretron-sms100/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:22:00.000Z I am always looking for better ways to monitor things – from my home network, to our family cabin temperatures, to my sailboat. I have tried other [vessel monitoring solutions](https://seabits.com/tag/vessel-monitoring/), but they all had various issues ranging from cost, stability, and install time. That’s why I was very happy to see Maretron come out with the [SMS100 module](http://www.maretron.com/products/sms100.php?ref=seabits.com). It’s an add-on to your NMEA 2000 network, along with at least one other Maretron product, that can send you alerts when various conditions change, and also allows you to interrogate it via text for a general update. In order to effectively use the SMS100 you will need either a [DSM150](http://www.maretron.com/products/dsm150.php?ref=seabits.com)/[DSM250](http://www.maretron.com/products/dsm250.php?ref=seabits.com) display (I have a DSM250) or [N2Kview](http://www.maretron.com/products/N2KView.php?ref=seabits.com) software already on your network to configure and fire off the alerts. That last part is something that I didn’t anticipate, but makes sense. I had hoped to be able to program alerts with my DSM250 and then shut it off when I wasn’t at the boat, leaving the rest of my critical items on the N2K bus running, including the SMS100, but it has no event or alert logic within it – think of it as simply another alarm point such as an ALM100 or strobe. Besides one of the above, you’ll also need to supply your own SIM card with an active SMS/text messaging plan. The SIM card itself is a 1FF or standard sized SIM. I used a SIM converter kit to upscale a Micro SIM to the correct size. I also used T-Mobile as my provider. ![22222](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/01/22222.png) The unit comes in a sturdy waterproof enclosure with a large antenna for the cell signal, and a NMEA 2000 port to connect it to your network. In the picture to the right you can see the small board with an ARM chip, a GSM/UMTS radio, the SIM card slot (almost right in the middle of the unit) and various other components. I was surprised at how large the overall box housing the board was – it’s much larger than I expected, and it could have easily been made to be at least 1/4 of the size. On a boat, where space is king, this is an odd choice by Maretron. Everything else I have from them has a very small footprint. If you have other modules from them such as the DCM100 or other standard sized sensors, this is much larger. ![maretron sms settings screen](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/01/maretron-sms-settings-screen.png) Installation was super easy – add the SIM card, screw on the antenna, and connect to the NMEA 2000 bus. The rest was all done at the panel of my DSM250, which took the longest amount of time. Setting up alerts and alarms requires a lot of patience to get each parameter right. ![jammy sms](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/01/jammy-sms.png) One of the main features of this unit is the ability to query it remotely via text message. You can send the word “STATUS” to the phone number of the SMS 100 and it answers with position, bilge status, battery voltage, AC voltage, wind speed, and inside and outside temperature. Unfortunately, this part of the product seems to be buggy. I am only able to get it to reply to a status text about 1 times out of 5\. Repeated attempts to contact Maretron support have not resulted in any resolution. I will update this post if I have more information. For now, sending four or five texts will get you a response eventually. Not the greatest solution, and a little worrisome when it doesn’t first respond. ![sms more](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/01/sms-more.png) You can see some of the corrupted status texts in the picture to the right. ![sms 3](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/01/sms-3.jpg) Alerts are the primary reason I wanted the SMS 100 on Jammy. Defining these is done on the DSM250 and requires thought about each aspect of a particular sensor or item on your NMEA 2000 network. I chose the following items as my critical alerts: - Inside temperature - Outside temperature - Engine room temperature - True wind speed - House battery bank voltage - Start battery bank voltage - AC power voltage For each of these, I had to define a particular low and high threshold, a name, what type of alert would be triggered, and select destinations for the alert (SMS, etc.). Once you do it a few times, it gets faster, but it still takes quite a while. I wish Maretron would expose this via the N2KAnalyzer program at least. You can use N2KView, but I have never been able to reliably get that Adobe Air (ahem) product to work, and even if you did, it’s just a remote display for the DSM. The same amount of keypresses are still required. After install, I tested the alarms and alerts by causing failures – disconnecting batteries, AC power, blowing hot and cold on temp sensors, etc. All worked perfectly, and sent a text message almost immediately to my phone. ![sms 4](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/01/sms-4.jpg) I am worried given the issues with getting responses to status texts that in the event of a cell phone signal interruption, I won’t get an alert, but I have no way to reliably test this. I can also see this being useful while on overnight trips around the area. If I have to leave the boat at a moorage, I can put an anchor watch alarm on, and be aware if I’m away from the boat if someone is doing something nefarious. Overall it’s a great product when you consider it simply plugs into your NMEA 2000 network, instead of many of the 3rd party ones that require extra wiring and duplicate connections to the same thing you may already be monitoring. Things I liked: - Infinitely configurable alerts - Easy install - Status requests - No additional extra wiring to monitoring points Things I didn’t like: - Unreliable status requests - Lots of steps configuring alerts - Lack of response from Maretron on issues ### SignalK first look URL: https://seabits.com/signalk-first-look/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:22:21.000Z [SignalK](http://signalk.org/?ref=seabits.com) is an astounding new project that has a ton of potential for marine electronics and connectivity. The concept is something we have needed in the industry for a long time. The idea is that the SignalK software, running on commodity or commercial hardware, will be able to consume data on a boat from any type of instruments, share it with other instruments, and share it with many, many other things – the Internet, aids to navigation, other boats, and more. Suffice to say, it has reinvigorated my dream which I’ve posted about a few times before in [Data collection from the sailboat](https://seabits.com/data-collection-from-the-sailboat/) and [More on data collection](https://seabits.com/more-on-data-collection-from-the-boat/). I had found the tools to extract the information from my NMEA 2000 bus, but I had not had a good way to deal with data storage and systems subscribing to the data stream itself. SignalK looked like it could change all of this! Early in 2015 I stumbled across SignalK’s website, and started asking questions. Within a day or two, Teppo Kurki invited me to the development tool they’re using for chat, Slack, which we use at work extensively. I joined in and was immediately among who I consider to be celebrities in the boat electronics software world – Teppo Kurki, Fabian Tollenaar, Rob Huitema of [Freeboard](http://www.42.co.nz/freeboard/?ref=seabits.com) fame, Kees from the canboat project, and many more. I am super rusty at coding, and my primary contribution was a big, busy, and strange NMEA 2000 bus on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/). I immediately started asking questions on how to get SignalK up and running, and within a few hours, I had my Soekris linux system and my Actisense gateway gobbling up data. I installed a front end example called [sailgauge](https://github.com/SignalK/sailgauge?ref=seabits.com), and I was seeing data from my bus in real-time, in a web browser! Jammy had two sections of N2K bus, one that I considered “critical” that ran 24×7 and contained things like AC, DC, GPS, and weather monitoring to ensure she was alive and connected, and not freezing to death. The second part of the bus, only energized when the rest of the instruments came on, contained things like heading sensors, depth, tanks, and much more. Part of what I sent to the SignalK guys initially were raw canboat captures of the bus traffic. With all instruments on at dockside, not moving (therefore not generating as much data on heading and speed updates) I generated slightly less than 1MB of data (943KB to be exact). In a 10 minute period, I generated 9.4MB of data. Here’s how that breaks down for various timeframes: 1 minute – 943KB 10 minutes – 9.4MB 1 hour – 56.4MB 1 day – 1.35GB 1 month – 40.5GB 1 year – 480GB, or near half a terabyte ![jammy captures](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2015/01/jammy-captures-1.png) These are astounding numbers considering that my connection to the internet on Jammy was an LTE link, with only about 5GB of data a month available to it to use! Some of these numbers were not new to me, having tried to solve this before with my data project. However, with SignalK, for the first time, I could gather and parse all of the data with lighter tools on a local box, represent the data real-time, and start looking at more long term analysis tools as a result. SignalK is using technologies that I am working with at work – in particular, Node.JS and JSON. I haven’t figured out everything about running this server quite yet, and I routinely run across PGN’s on the N2K bus that crash it, or cause problems with the data being represented, but the developers are amazingly quick to respond. I can’t wait for more contributors, particularly in front-ends, to start participating more with SignalK – I believe it’s going to be the future of how geeks like me, and even average users, are able to interact with their boat from whatever means they want. ### Solar learning curve URL: https://seabits.com/solar-learning-curve/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:23:39.000Z A month or so ago we had some brazen [trespassers](http://photos.stevem.net/Cabin/Trespassers/?ref=seabits.com) at our family cabin in Eastern Washington. Being the tech in the family, and having already deployed several Dropcams and a SmartThings home system, I decided to add some more camera coverage and wifi around the property so we can make sure things are OK. Given the amount of sun we get, I chose to go solar in two locations – one in the field between the cabin and the river, and one at the river itself… For the river, I used two [17 watt solar panels from Voltaic Systems](http://www.voltaicsystems.com/17-watt-panel?ref=seabits.com). Originally I had paired them with one of their [V72 batteries](http://www.voltaicsystems.com/v72?ref=seabits.com), but unfortunately it does not have an “always on” feature, which would mean I would have to come press a button if it ever completely depleted in power. Instead, I used a [Renogy PWM30CC charge controller](http://renogy.com/renogy-solar/charge-controller/?ref=seabits.com) and a battery I already had. The charge controller actually came in a package I ordered that included a 100W Renogy solar panel which I used elsewhere. For the camera, I chose a [Y-Cam Bullet HD 720](http://www.y-cam.com/y-cam-bullet-hd-720-2nd-gen/?ref=seabits.com) after a significant amount of research. Finding a wifi enabled security camera that also can run off of some sort of solar style voltage, and isn’t part of some horrible packaged system that requires a controller or other hardware is pretty hard. Many people have chosen Foscam or other manufacturers, but their reliability and quality appear to be widely varying, if not scary. Y-Cam offers a standalone camera that has great reviews, good quality picture, amazing night vision (not a requirement for me) and a decent set of features. You can see it in the picture above. Paired with the camera, I use a [TP-LINK TL-ANT2414A 14dBi antenna](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATOC/ref=oh%5Faui%5Fdetailpage%5Fo01%5Fs00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&ref=seabits.com) pointed back towards the field wireless AP. It’s almost 700 feet through thick trees and foliage back to the field AP. On average, the camera get’s a 50% wireless link or better back to the AP, and I have had no problems with connectivity. The solar panels give plenty of power to the battery, even in the fall months so far, and allow me to retrieve a still picture every 5 minutes for the daylight hours. The camera is still running 24×7, but hopefully not using that much power. When I measured it at 12v, it consumes about 2.4 watts of power during normal usage. If you enable the night vision features it jumps up to 4+ watts, which is too much for my comfort level on my power budget. I think I may be able to retrieve more frequent pictures, and maybe even some video, without compromising my power budget – only time will tell. ![solar2](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2014/10/solar2-1-1.jpg) The second major installation is a Renogy 100W solar panel paired with a [Tycon TP-SCPOE-1248](http://tycononline.com/tp-scpoe-1248-poe-solar-dual-input-12v-battery-charge-control/?ref=seabits.com) solar charge controller and 48v PoE injector in one. The verdict is still out on this one as it has performed for the last few days very well, but I think I’d like a more configurable charge controller, and a stand alone PoE injector. This seems to all-in-one, and I’m worried about my battery life. I am using a 51ah gel battery designed for solar applications, which should be more than enough for the devices in question which include: [Ubiquiti UniFi AP Outdoor +](http://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-outdoor/?ref=seabits.com) setup to extend my wifi network from a UAP-Pro inside the cabin. [Dropcam](http://www.dropcam.com/?ref=seabits.com) in a [Dropcase](http://dropcases.com/?ref=seabits.com) with a 12v -> 5v converter. I started out with a different set of components, but had a lot of problems with the charge controller and battery, and had to return some stuff. Here again I used [TP-LINK TL-ANT2414A 14dBi ](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATOC/ref=oh%5Faui%5Fdetailpage%5Fo01%5Fs00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&ref=seabits.com)antennas – one pointed towards the cabin and UAP-Pro, and the other pointed towards the river. ![solar3](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2014/10/solar3-1-1.jpg) The battery, 12v converter, solar charge controller, and wireless AP are stored in a [Tycon ENC-ST-23x14x12](http://www.streakwave.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=ENC%2DST%2D23x14x12&eq=&Tp=&ref=seabits.com) enclosure which is fantastically built. A bit on the heavy side, it is very well made with a backplate, rails, multiple pass throughs and glands, a sturdy mounting system for wall or pole, and a great sealed front with keys. It even has a really well thought out battery tray that is removable, with cable passthroughs underneath. The key here is the UniFi Outdoor AP which is responsible for extending the wifi network not only to the camera at the river, but the Dropcam in the field to watch for people that shouldn’t be there. Additionally, with some creative wifi SSID’s, if someone is walking or present anywhere on the property, provided that they have a carrier provided cell phone, I will be able to see if someone is around as their phone will most likely glom onto one of those networks and provide at least a basic amount of information. ![solar4](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2014/10/solar4-1-1.jpg) The jury is out as to the longevity of this system in these conditions. It gets pretty hot in the summer, almost 100F, but the bigger concern is the cold winters of 20F or cooler. I’m pretty sure everything will survive but am most concerned with the Dropcam. Everything is sealed and generates enough heat when active to keep things above a freezing temperature. I am going to look at adding heaters or something else if needed to the solar panel – still doing research. Overall I’m very happy with the performance thus far, and will continue to monitor. I am looking for a solar charge controller with good performance, support for gel batteries, a PoE port (48v) and an ethernet port for monitoring remotely. The longer term plan is to move these components and the [weather station](https://seabits.com/weather) to a pole near this same location. In a few days I’ll post a full network diagram of the system which includes another AP Outdoor+ unit relaying the signal for the front of the property and to two more Dropcams. ### Better tank monitoring URL: https://seabits.com/better-tank-monitoring/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:24:04.000Z Tank monitoring on a sailboat is not the most glamorous of topics. Recently, it became of great interest when the head holding tank overflowed at the very end of a long day with multiple people on the boat. Not fun. > Note that I no longer use these sensors, as Maretron has a pressure sensor system that works far better. The old tank monitor was very hard to see (no audible alarm, only a light) and only went off when you were almost full – within an inch or two of the top. Time to update this! ![TLM100 NMEA 2000 tank monitor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2014/08/tank1.jpg) TLM100 NMEA 2000 tank monitor I had added a [WEMA tank sender](http://www.wemausa.com/?ref=seabits.com) to my diesel tank several years ago, and used a [Maretron Tank Level Adapter (TLA100)](http://www.maretron.com/products/tla100.php?ref=seabits.com) to put it’s data on my NMEA 2000 network. While this was great for the diesel tank, I was worried about having a tank sender in a waste tank. Being a loyal Maretron customer, and having many of their existing sensors, I was happy to find the [Maretron Tank Level Monitor (TLM100)](http://www.maretron.com/products/tlm100.php?ref=seabits.com) – an ultrasonic tank monitor that required nothing being inserted into the tank! On top of that, it can be very granularly calibrated for strange shape tanks. I ordered two of them – one for the waste tank, and one for the water tank, which has never had any instrumentation, and is hard to get to. ![TLA unit](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2014/08/tank2.jpg) TLA unit The unit itself is very simple, and works on tanks up to 40″ deep. There are other models that work on deeper tanks, or on gasoline – the standard one is not for use in gas tanks. Besides the standard NMEA 2000 connection and unit that does the processing, there’s a short cable to the sensor itself. Included are warnings on blocking the sensor, the effective angles of the beam, instructions on the gasket and other details. Essentially, you’ll need to use the provided gasket exactly, or risk blockages or inaccurate readings. The sensor itself is very simple and looks to be very rugged and reliable. There aren’t many places for stuff to get wedged or stuck, and looks very easy to clean. ![Sensor](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2014/08/tank3.jpg) Sensor Installation is a bit more complicated than a standard sender. You need to consider a few things: - Go deep – I would recommend choosing the deepest part of the tank if you have an irregular one such as my head tank. This will give the beam more overall liquid to measure and likely be more accurate. - Flat as can be – the bottom of the tank should be flat and not have any obstructions in the way of the beam path. There are kits to focus the beam in the case of constantly listing vessels, to deal with obstructions, and much more. In my case, I had a clear path to the bottom of the tank, and no other restrictions that would require any of those kits. ![Standard tank settings including the #, type, and size.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2014/08/tank4.png) Standard tank settings including the #, type, and size. My tank was very irregularly shaped – it is in the bow of the boat and molded to that shape. It was clearly labeled with an overall capacity, so after installing the TLM, I opened N2KAnalyzer and started configuring things. Granular tank percentage settings You can set the overall tank size, as expected, but in addition, you can set various calibration points if you have a strange shaped tank, like mine. I haven’t had the opportunity to fill and drain the tank yet and figure out the overall volume and percentages, but it’s super nice that you could set those things in a granular fashion. To do so, you’d just enter the depth, and what the expected level (in percent) that the tank is at. ![tank5](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2014/08/tank5.png) I’ve had the sensor installed for about a week, and have been on the boat several times in different conditions, and added water to the tank randomly in varying amounts to test things. So far it’s reading the levels perfectly as I would expect. I’m very happy at having an accurate tank monitor for this particular tank given our recent problems. The next few steps include setting alarms on the DSM250 for when the tank gets too full, and then figuring out how to get the same sensor installed in the water tank. Overall, I’m very happy at having a simpler solution to tank monitoring that I don’t have to worry as much about with moving parts. ### More on data collection from the boat URL: https://seabits.com/more-on-data-collection-from-the-boat/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:25:02.000Z I continue to tweak my scripts and data collection on my NMEA 2000 server that I added to last year in [Data collection from the sailboat](https://seabits.com/data-collection-from-the-sailboat/). They are not even close to being ready for prime time, but the data I’m collecting is starting to force me to adapt the system to match the resolutions required. Things like battery voltages are easy because they shouldn’t change every second, but things like heading, heel angle, and other sailing related items should have much more granular resolution. RRD’s are great for things that have 30 second to 5 minute resolutions, but terrible for things like real time data like the above. I have yet to find any great way to store this data and present it usably other than a static webpage that a client can update at predefined intervals. I’m terrible at some of the newer technologies, but it looks like there are more flexible technologies that will push second-by-second updates to a client. One of the other things I’ve done is to push differing types of traffic from the bus into a database and start looking at frequencies and organizing things in different ways. There are some obvious consistencies and items that are repeated over and over, which never would change – devices claiming their addresses and such that you wouldn’t want to log all of the time. There are definitely a lot of challenges in developing something like this for the commercial market. Maretron and others have N2K monitors and PC’s that parse lots of this data and will take actions, but no one seems to have a full boat monitoring or data collection system yet… Below is a copy of the current network on [Jammy](https://seabits.com/jammy/). Quite a lot of endpoints and interfaces, but I love working on her! Click for a larger version and zoom in. ![Jammy Electronics](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2013/03/Jammy-Electronics.png) ### Data collection from the sailboat URL: https://seabits.com/data-collection-from-the-sailboat/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:25:19.000Z For the last few years, I have had a server of some sort on Jammy collecting various amounts of data. As my NMEA 2000 network continues to grow, I look forward to collecting even more data. My eventual goal, and life long project, is to be able to develop a set of software tools that are open source, and allow people to submit anonymized data to a service which will allow for larger operations or business opportunities. Imagine if racers in a race were able to submit performance info real time and see the effects of currents throughout the fleet? What about commercial vessels submitting performance data similar to airplanes that allows for better engine maintenance or pre-emptive service based on usage patterns? How about recreational boaters being able to share their trips and maps through an online logbook? The possibilities are pretty amazing. When I first put a server on the boat, there weren’t many tool kits available to gather data. You could hack together connections to NMEA 0183 networks, or connect in to various proprietary systems via their methods. Then came the Actisense NMEA series of gateways, available in serial and USB flavors. My first one was an [NGW-1](http://www.actisense.com/products/nmea-2000/ngw-1/ngw-1.html?ref=seabits.com) which I used to connect a DSC VHF radio to my NMEA 2000 network to get GPS locations. Soon I found that you could get one that connected to the PC, the [NGT-1](http://www.actisense.com/products/nmea-2000/ngt-1/ngt-1.html?ref=seabits.com). Shortly thereafter I found Kees Verruijt’s fantastic [canboat analyzer](https://github.com/canboat?ref=seabits.com) on Github. I exchanged some emails with him on some issues I found setting things up, but shortly I was reading raw data off of my NMEA 2000 bus, and then converting the PGN’s to real human readable data! The future is here! From that project, I developed some Perl scripts that parsed the data and put it into Round Robin Databases (RRD’s) using Tobias Oetiker’s [RRDtool](http://oss.oetiker.ch/rrdtool/?ref=seabits.com). I was able to graph various bits of data like temperature, DC voltage, and other things in pretty graphs. The next step is to start looking at pushing this data off-boat in a lower resolution format, to not eat up the LTE/4G data that I’m limited by! ### Front Panel Express URL: https://seabits.com/front-panel-is-in/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:25:32.000Z I am not a woodworker, so most of my modifications to Jammy where design is involved has been to remove something made of wood, and somehow mount an instrument, device, or otherwise with some sort of industrial setup. When I embarked upon re-doing my entire network on the boat to NMEA 2000, I made the choice to produce a better navigation station, including front panels. After searching around, I found [Front Panel Express](http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/?ref=seabits.com) online, which just happens to be a local Seattle company. Several other folks had suggested them as well, although none of them had actually ordered anything from them. The first step is to download their [Front Panel Designer ](http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/download/front-panel-designer/index.html?ref=seabits.com)software, and then start designing your panel. It’s pretty intuitive and easy to use, and even allows you to click a button and see how much the panel is going to cost you. I used a combination of manufacturer mounting templates and measurements to figure out how to get everything I wanted on my panel. This included my Simrad NSS7 chart plotter, Vesper WatchMate 850 AIS unit, mic holder for my VHF radio, Fusion WR600 stereo remote, NMEA 2000 connector, and three BlueSea Systems switches. ![fp2](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/03/fp2.jpg) Once the design is fine tuned, you simply click on a button and start the ordering process, which takes just a few minutes, and you’re done! They have a decent online system to check your order as well, and you can see it move through the process: I chose 3MM black anodized aluminum for my panel. This is the first of three panels in the area, with the other two being far simpler. I am very pleased with how it turned out. The text is easy to read, everything fits perfectly and is held in securely. I like the black as it makes the instruments sort of float on the panel, and the switches will look great when I get power to them. It’s also at a slight angle tilted back so that from the cockpit door, I can see the instruments without bending down too far. I’ll post some better photos in a few days – these are iPhone quality… sorry. ![fp3](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/03/fp3.jpg) When building this panel, I took a cue from Steven Roberts of [microship.com](http://microship.com/?ref=seabits.com) who has built panels and enclosures for his many adventures and systems, and always had a way to hinge them open for serviceability, something I am keen on as well. I haven’t completed the mechanism for holding the panel in quite yet, but in the picture below you can see it hinging open. The cables inside are not completed yet either – I’m a bit of a fanatic about cable ties and neatness. I used a stainless steel marine hinge on the bottom with holes 2″ on center. It was extremely flat, and allows for the panel to hinge out for access. ![fp4](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/03/fp4.jpg) The panel is extremely strong, looks great, and fits all of my components perfectly. I highly recommend Front Panel Express for this sort of work. A few tips, though: - DO NOT rely on manufacturer measurements or templates. Always start with their recommendations, and measure the real device. Several of mine were dead wrong. - The designer is absolute down to sub-millimeter accuracy – add some slack for components that are harder to get in and out. Although you can use appropriate tools to shave off a bit, it’s messy and can also mess up your anodization. I have a few other places, including my cockpit navigation pod, that need new panels, and will be using Front Panel Express to create those as well. Now back to the NMEA 2000 network final tasks and wiring… ### SeaSmart.net WiFi Gateway initial impressions URL: https://seabits.com/seasmart-net-wifi-gateway-initial-impressions/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:25:47.000Z I’ve been working on finishing off my NMEA 2000 network for the last year or two, and one of the pieces I wanted to have in it was something that could slurp up all of the data on the network and make it available via TCP to other devices. I had initially decided that I would have to use something like an [ActiSense NGT-1](http://www.actisense.com/HTML/Products/Gateways/NMEA%5F2000%5FPC%5FGateway%5F1/index.php?ref=seabits.com) and a Linux system to do this myself, but then I saw [posts on Panbo](http://www.panbo.com/archives/2011/02/chetco%5Fseasmartnet%5Fmodules%5Fwide%5Fopen%5Fn2k-to-ethernet.html?ref=seabits.com) about the Chetco SeaSmart.net gateways. ![ss2](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/03/ss2.jpg) A few weeks ago I finally got around to getting one, and have been pleasantly surprised. There are still some rough edges that are being worked through, but overall the concept is a great one. In the picture above you can see my iPhone connecting to the SeaSmart adapter and streaming NMEA 2000 PGN’s directly into iNavX. I can do this while on board, or based on my router/firewall configuration, while I’m anywhere in the world if I just happen to want to check on what’s going on. You can check out more on how to configure iNavX with SeaSmart [here on iNavX’s site](http://www.inavx.com/help/seasmart.htm?ref=seabits.com). I’ve designed my N2K system to have a portion of the bus that is always on 24×7 for monitoring purposes. My end goal is to have some of this equipment, perhaps the SeaSmart adapter, monitored and scripted in such a way that I get emails when certain things happen – bilge pump goes on, fire alarm fails, etc. ![ss3](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/03/ss3.jpg) The unit itself is compact and well made, and includes an indicator light to let you know when it’s up and running and on your WiFi network, antenna, N2K connector (somewhat proprietary unfortunately) and a USB/Serial port for diagnostics and local use. Configuration is [documented on their website](http://www.digitalmarinegauges.com/support.html/tutorials.html?ref=seabits.com), and they have great support in their [forums](http://www.digitalmarinegauges.com/support.html/support.html?ref=seabits.com). Once up and running, I can see various instruments, as you can see from the below, as well as charts. ![ss4](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/03/ss4.jpg) ![ss5](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/03/ss5.jpg) Here’s an example of my iPad showing charts, including the plethora of AIS targets in the local area. I’m using Navionics Gold charts with iNavX – I highly recommend purchasing the charts for iNavX instead of using the standard NOAA raster charts, as they require you change charts for clarity (just like flopping around paper charts) depending on the area you want to see. Navionics Gold charts can be acquired through [X-Traverse](http://x-traverse.com/?ref=seabits.com). Below is the SeaSmart main web interface showing some info from my Maretron battery sensor. You’ll note there is still some adjustments to do to get everything happy. I don’t think I have that many amps heading out of my batteries – if I do I’m probably in trouble! ![ss6](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/03/ss6.jpg) I will be posting more in the future about my plans to stream this data back to a central place and analyze it, as well as updates and changes to the system itself. I also have an ActiSense NGT-1 connected to a Linux box that is streaming similar information, but that’s a post for another day… ### BlueSea Terminal Fuse Block, a great innovation URL: https://seabits.com/bluesea-terminal-fuse-block-a-great-innovation/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:26:02.000Z This weekend I am replacing all three batteries on the boat as a result of damage from a crappy battery charger. I’m taking the opportunity to replace all of the old battery wires, simplify things, and add some redundancy, which I’ll hopefully post about here later. In redesigning the battery wiring, I came across a really great product from [BlueSea](http://bluesea.com/?ref=seabits.com)called the [Terminal Fuse Block](http://bluesea.com/products/2151?ref=seabits.com). It comes in a single or double configuration, and mounts on the existing battery terminal, providing you with high current protection in limited space. I don’t have a lot of space where my house bank is located, and this is an absolute life saver. The whole assembly is very well made, as is usual with BlueSea, and fits right onto the existing battery terminal. You can [get marine rated battery fuses](http://bluesea.com/productline/overview/379?ref=seabits.com) (MRBF) from 30-300 AMPs which simply drop onto the added studs, and are very easy to see – both the label and whether it’s been tripped. As always, you should make sure you [size your fuses and wire](http://bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/20010%5FRev002.pdf?ref=seabits.com) correctly for the application at hand. The fuses have exposed conductors on the top and bottom that contact very well. The whole thing is protected by a rubber cover. This will allow me to have appropriate fusing and protection with a huge amount of space savings. ### When power goes wrong URL: https://seabits.com/power-goes-wrong/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:26:41.000Z Yesterday I made a trip down to the sailboat to do a few things, and when I arrived, I noticed that I didn’t have any shore power. Additionally, the main A/C breaker panel indicated a reverse polarity situation. I immediately disconnected the A/C panel from shore power via the breaker, and went outside to the plug to see what had happened. As you can see from the picture, it’s pretty clear why A/C power was interrupted. After a bit of sleuthing, I determined that the socket that the shore power plug was connected into was full of water. I believe the water caused a short which then resulted in what you see in the picture. The main breaker in the boat did trip when this happened, so everything was safe, but it’s a bit strange it caused so much damage to the plug and socket. It should have likely tripped earlier, so I’ll be thinking/investigating the current boat-side breaker to see if there’s a better solution. ![DSC00317](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2012/02/DSC00317.jpg) The other worrisome situation was that my [BlueSea VSM](http://bluesea.com/products/1800?ref=seabits.com) (used to monitor battery health, A/C power, and tank levels) was acting up. It also reported low voltage conditions on one of my batteries, which only a few days before had reported healthy. These were new in the last 2 years AGM batteries that should last a long time. I decided to use the SmartPlug system when replacing my damaged plug and socket – specifically their [30 AMP solution](http://www.smartplug.com/products/inletandconnector.html?ref=seabits.com) that includes a new plug end and socket. It took about an hour to install, which was mostly because my shore power cord is slightly bigger than normal, and getting the new plug on was an exercise in strength. Once that was set, I had A/C power back and waited while the battery charger started bringing life back to the batteries. Right around that time, the BlueSea VSM stopped displaying vital information and flashed on it’s screen: `No firmware image found. Waiting for download.` So back to using the handheld meter to check on things. The rest of the afternoon and evening the battery charger worked long and hard and had the batteries back to their normal selves late in the evening. From other visual inspections of almost the entire A/C wiring (whew!) I did not see any other damage, and everything else on the battery side seems to be OK as well. I contacted BlueSea on Sunday via email, and on Monday morning they returned the email saying they would be glad to ship out a replacement, and that this rarely happens, and they’d like to see the broken unit. Very helpful and quick – I hope to have the new one very soon. I had read a lot about the SmartPlug system, but never really thought there was anything that wrong with my current system that warranted the $200 price for the plug and socket. I’m glad nothing was badly damaged, and can sleep soundly now that I’ve installed SmartPlug. It’s a very well designed system, with little chance of a repeat of what happened. Sealed in several ways, positive locking, and a lot more metal on metal contact, it’s well worth the investment, and I would suggest anyone upgrade immediately to prevent things like what happened to me. ### First sail of the year and a swim URL: https://seabits.com/first-sail-year-swim/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:26:57.000Z On Saturday, it looked really nice out on the water near our place on the island, so I decided to go out in my dinghy for the first time this year. It just so happened that it was opening day of boating season. There was a small craft advisory up, but nearly ready to expire, and the water was very calm as far as I could see in my sailing area. Further up the channel there were whitecaps. My dinghy is an 8′ Walker Bay with the performance sail kit, which includes inflatable RIB pontoons on the sides of the dinghy. I sailed it a bunch of times last season, and was always able to get out of any problems I got into, and ended up sailing pretty fast a number of times. This time around, it wasn’t so fun. After departing the beach, a friend was watching me, and I got out a couple of hundred feet when the wind kicked up a bit. I adjusted the sail, and dropped the centerboard in, got down in the bottom of the boat to drop my center of gravity, and got ready to work the boat upwind – the wind was coming from the north. Before I could even get settled, a huge gust caught me – I remember seeing the water and really tiny ripples everywhere with water flying off of the top. I let the main sheet go and started leaning to get the nose pointed into the wind, but it was too late – the wind kept getting stronger very fast. I don’t remember which way the boat tipped over, or which way the sail was pointing – I just remember doing everything I could to keep things from getting worse, and when I knew there was nothing left to do, I got myself free of any lines or part of the boat and got ready to get wet. The water was about 46 degrees, and it was about 50 outside, so it didn’t really feel that much colder when I hit the water. I was wearing jeans, three shirts, rubber boots, and a life vest. I did get hung up a bit in the mainsail as the boat went over. It ended up going completely over and the mast hung up on the bottom – even though I was about a 1/4 mile out from the beach, it was still shallow. I could see the bottom and the sail stuck in the mud, and the boat was relatively stable, albeit upside-down. My friend on the beach was asking if I needed help, and I said “yes” after trying to move the boat around a bit. I knew the tide was still going out at least for another 30 minutes, so I was worried things would be stuck for a while. He immediately ran up the beach and started to get his kayak ready to come out to me. Meanwhile, the rudder popped loose and started floating away, so I rescued that, and then climbed up on the hull of the boat and hung onto the centerboard, resting a bit and waiting for my friend to arrive. Once he arrived, I transferred the rudder to him, and then after moving the hull to point into the wind, was able to get the mast un-stuck from the bottom. It was fairly easy to get it back upright, but the boat was filled almost to the top with water. Really the only thing keeping it floating was the RIB pontoons. I jumped in, secured a bunch of stuff floating around, and started to bail using my boot. At this point, I figure I had been in the water for about 10 minutes. It wasn’t too cold yet. The wind was still gusting, and I was able to get the sail loose so I didn’t go over again, but the bigger problem was the waves and the fact that the boat was filled with water. I transferred a 10lb anchor to my friends kayak, and continued baling. After doing this for a while, with him yanking me in a bit, and eventually just rowing for a while, I was able to get to shore. Dumping out the water was pretty quick, and then securing the sail completely only took a few minutes. I would estimate I’d been in the water and in the water in my boat for about 20 minutes by now. We were a few hundred feet down the beach from our house, so I walked the boat back through the water (I was already wet anyhow) and helped secure it along with help from my friend. I got up to the house and immediately jumped in the shower – probably at about 30 minutes now, and definitely shaking a little bit from the cold water. I warmed up over the next hour, but was very worn out after the adrenaline and working to get things secured. Here are a few things I’ll be doing differently the next time I go out: Better floating radio – the radio I was carrying wasn’t attached to me, and although it floats a bit, it isn’t designed to be underwater as long as it was while the boat was overturned. I have also never been able to get it to stay attached to me no matter what I do. I have a different radio on my big sailboat that floats much better, and can be attached better as well. I’ll be using this from now on so I can make sure I can get in contact with someone in the even this happens in the future, and a friend isn’t standing on shore! Less layers and better boots – the layers of clothing I had on were quite heavy while I was in the water, and didn’t really help when they were dry. I’ve tried to find a better lightweight sailing coat of some sort, and now I’ll definitely investigate a better solution. The boots I was wearing were 12″ high or so, and useful for getting off of the beach without getting wet, but were nearly useless while in the water. They kept coming off. Whale pump in the boat – I used to carry one of these, and couldn’t find it for the last few outings. I’ll always make sure I have one from now on in case I need to empty the boat. One thing I’m still considering is the life jacket – I had a kayak-style lifejacket on which doesn’t require any inflation or the like. However, it was a bit restrictive when trying to move around and get the boat righted. I think I’ll look at some newer designs that might be easier to move in, but still be as bouyant as the existing one. The only “damage” was the socket that the main mast was in popped out of it’s mountings, and bent some plastic, which I was able to push back together – everything looks solid and stable. I of course, lost a little of my pride, and got a little cold, but I’m glad I’m safe! I’ll try again next weekend! ### Bulkhead destroyed, and saga continues URL: https://seabits.com/bulkhead-destroyed-saga-continues/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:27:15.000Z It’s been a while since I’ve [written about our bulkhead permit](https://seabits.com/permits-gone-wrong/) problems, but at least on that front, we don’t have to worry about permits any more. Unfortunately, the way we got the permits issued is not one that I’d like to repeat… Right around Thanksgiving, a bad storm swept through the Seattle area – high winds, snow, and the like. During the height of the storm late on November 22nd, there was a very high tide. Combine that with the highest winds my weather station has ever recorded at 53mph sustained, with higher gusts, and our bulkhead was taking a pounding. Eventually, the weakest part facing north gave way, and the storm took over 30 large boards and more than 170 yards of our land. ![DSC00228](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/12/DSC00228.jpg) Of course, during this time I was trapped in Seattle because of the ice and snow, but connected at one point to the camera we have inside the house. It was bouncing around, and the microphone was picking up some crazy noises, which I attributed to the wind – most likely it was the bulkhead breaking up. I wasn’t able to get out to check on things until the 25th due to the weather and road conditions, but I was able to get a hold of some neighbors, and they said our place was OK, but missed the bulkhead damage. It’s pretty amazing what mother nature can do – we knew that if we had a big north storm, with a lot of wind and a high tide, that things wouldn’t go well. We didn’t expect it to be this bad. The island was pretty hard hit with lots of trees down everywhere, and power out for almost 2 days. By the time I got there to check on things, it was relatively back to normal. ![DSC00226](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/12/DSC00226.jpg) The good news is that within 24 hours of my reporting this to our permit folks, King County, Army Corps of Engineers, and the rest of the agencies gave us temporary permission to start repairs immediately – something we had been trying to get for over 3 years. ![DSC00251](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/12/DSC00251.jpg) Unfortunately it’s going to cost us at least double what we planned on for the original repair job. Had the various agencies involved actually done their job in a timely fashion, we wouldn’t be saddled with this extra cost. The repair work started a few days ago – finding all of the parts and pieces to do the work took a few days, as well as lining up people to work on it. During that time, we’ve lost at least another 30 yards of land. Hopefully in a week or so, things will be better than they were before, and we can enjoy our place without worry! ### T-Mobile G2 WiFi calling and hotspot first impressions URL: https://seabits.com/t-mobile-g2-wifi-calling-hotspot-first-impressions/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:27:32.000Z T-Mobile released support for [WiFi calling](http://press.t-mobile.com/articles/t-mobile-android-wifi-calling?ref=seabits.com) and hotspot a week or so ago. I’ve been waiting for this for quite some time since the two biggest problems I’ve had in recent months have been cell signal coverage, and being able to use a hotspot when I’m out and about. I’ve had the update for a bit over a week, and it’s working very well on both counts. WiFi calling has been tried before using [UMA](http://www.bbgeeks.com/blackberry-guides/what-does-uma-mean-for-your-blackberry-881289/?ref=seabits.com), mostly for BlackBerry phones. T-Mobile had the Hotspot @ Home service that allowed you to use your internet connection to make phone calls from your cell phone. To setup WiFi calling is very simple. A new app shows up called WiFi Calling, which allows you to turn the feature on. Once it’s on, and if an appropriate wifi network is available, it logs into T-Mobile’s site remotely and you’re done. I’ve noticed a few things when using WiFi calling: **Normal phone network connection is disabled** – this is actually a good thing for me, since several places I frequent have awesome wifi coverage, but have horrible T-Mobile coverage. Since the normal phone radio is off, it saves a huge amount of battery. However, when you leave a wifi coverage area, it takes a few seconds for the phone to spin up the normal radio and get back on T-Mobile’s normal network. Can be annoying too if you’re in the middle of a call – oops! \*\*Jumping wifi AP’s works fine \*\*– I’ve been at work and jumped across a number of similar AP’s, as well as onto a completely different AP, and things work great. You can’t continue a call during these times, but that’s OK. You just have to be a bit more cognizant of when you’re going to go out of range of an AP as you will drop your call. I’ve also noticed going from home to work to friends house doesn’t require any intervention. My G2 was joined to all of these three networks, and as soon as I’m in range, a few seconds later I’m using wifi calling. **Battery life increases** – as I mentioned above, because the normal radio is off, I’m seeing a 20-50% savings in battery depending on where I happen to be during the day. Many times I would come home at night and be near 20% battery left. Now, I come home with 40-50% left! Quite a big difference. Remember, though, that my work location has no T-Mobile coverage, and so I’m on wifi for 8+ hours. **Call quality and speed excellent** – people can call me and my phone rings almost immediately, instead of the 1 or 2 rings in the past that were used while the towers were searching me out. In addition, the speed of text messages and outbound calls connecting is much faster. I’ve connected my phone to a wifi system where I can take packet captures, and from what I can see, the wifi app establishes an ipsec connection to T-Mobile through the internet, and periodically updates it’s status through that same connection. I plan on doing some bandwidth profiling and other information later this coming week and will post that information here too – I’m particularly interested in how much bandwidth it takes for a phone call as well as for text messages. The hotspot functionality is similar to the same options available on the Droid series of phones from Verizon, and the EVO on Sprint. However, the biggest difference is the network. Here in Seattle near my house I get almost 10Mbps download, and 4Mbps upload, with \~40ms of ping times – that’s pretty fantastic from a mobile connection, and far better than the Clearwire/Sprint 4G stuff I’ve used before. I hope that more phones adopt the wifi calling like feature, including from other providers. This will allow us to use more minutes and be more connected in many places that are completely dead now – basements, work, etc. Unfortunately, a lot of providers are resisting the shift to internet technologies for voice – even Verizon is saying their new LTE network will not support data and voice via the same technologies. For me, it makes the G2 and T-Mobile’s network more reliable than any other provider in all of the places I frequent. Great feature! ### Not a lot of sailing this year... URL: https://seabits.com/not-lot-sailing-year/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:27:44.000Z So far this year I’ve only really sailed once, which was about 2 weeks ago. Before then, I took the boat up to Seaview to have it hauled, painted, etc. but I don’t count that since it was a “business trip”. And I’m sort of worried about going out right now because of my trip 2 weeks ago. The short story is that I think I ate something really bad. Combine that with 3ft waves and 20-25kt winds, and me getting seasick easy, and things went south quickly. I ended up getting to Blake Island (north side moorings) and stopping to check some gear, when I started getting very, very sick. That was at 2pm on a Sunday. By 8pm I was really, really bad off. I remember talking to some friends and feeling like I was drunk. I was so weak and horribly sick that I couldn’t even stand. So I stayed the night on the mooring, drank lots of water, ate nothing at all, slept very little, and left at around 7am on Monday morning. I motored home, slept at the slip for an hour, and then went home and slept for the rest of the day. It still took almost a full week before I felt right. I had to eat carefully…. I think it was food poisoning. If you think you might want to eat something from Moveable Feast, especially their Mushroom Burrito (yes I should have known!) you might not want to… Anyhow, the memory of that whole evening/night still haunt me every time I think about going back out. I hope it will fade… ### Parker fuel polishing system installed URL: https://seabits.com/parker-fuel-polishing-system-installed/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:27:54.000Z A while ago [I wrote about](https://seabits.com/fuel-polishing/) the Parker Fuel Polishing module that I found and purchased. I finally had the time a week ago to finish my design and install it. So far, I’m very pleased with it, although I appear to have a potential leak in one of my splices… ![DSC00139](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/08/DSC00139.jpg) The whole installation took me about 3 hours, most of which was laying in odd positions and searching for tools that I had dropped or misplaced – the usual delays and challenges on any boat project. In the picture above, you can see the pump, Racor fuel filter, and all of the fuel hose coming and going. The fuel filter was already mounted in the current location, so it was relatively easy to install. ![DSC00135](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/08/DSC00135.jpg) You can see the fuel line from the tank going into the Racor filter. Behind the filter, a new fuel pipe connects the outflow to the inlet of the fuel polisher pump. On the top of the pump is the new line I installed that goes back to the fuel return line (not in the picture) and into a tee that I installed into it. The polished fuel returns to the tank via that line. The final pipe leaving the pump heads out to the engine fuel pump. ![DSC00142](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/08/DSC00142.jpg) In addition to the pump installation, I also purchased the [Programmable Controller](http://www.parkerfuelpolishing.com/accessories.html?ref=seabits.com) that allows for very detailed scheduling of fuel polishing – far more granularity than I needed. I ended up running four cycles of 2 hours every day, giving me 8 hours of polishing. This might be overkill on a 10 gallon tank of diesel, but I suppose it’s not really doing any harm – it’s not like it would wear the fuel out! The controller is mounted quite a ways away from the pump, and it has a really watertight glass and machined aluminum cover (not on in the picture) that will keep it very safe and dry. So far, the polisher has been running for a few days – I’ve checked on it several times to make sure there aren’t any major leaks. I can hear the fuel being returned into the main tank so I know it’s working. We’ll see if this will end up solving some of the fuel problems I had in the past – I believe it will. I also think it will require that I change the Racor filter more often, but that’s OK too – I’d rather have good quality fuel. The one concern is that the tee I used to connect into the existing fuel return line might be leaking. Per my research, I used teflon pipe tape on all of my brass/bronze fittings. For the tee, I used a bronze fitting, and then three 3/8″ brass pipe connectors and clamps. All three of the connectors have teflon tape around their threads – only one layer – I read that more than that can cause leaks/problems. Nevertheless, I can see the edge of some of the pipe tape on one of the connections, and it appears to be soaking up diesel fuel. I have not seen any leaks or anything else, but if the diesel has miscolored the teflon, I would imagine over time it is going to leak. Should I have used something other than this quite large hunk of metal parts as a tee? I looked high and low for a one part tee for a fuel line, and couldn’t find anything. I did a bunch of research, and came up with my current solution. I’ll keep an eye on it, but if anyone has suggestions, they would be appreciated. I’ll follow up in a while on how the polishing is going. ### Permits gone wrong URL: https://seabits.com/permits-gone-wrong/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:28:05.000Z For the last 2+ years I have been trying to get permits to repair the bulkhead out at our Vashon Island place. It’s been an exercise in futility at just about every step. When I first started, I was trying to do it all on my own without any help. I figured it couldn’t be too much harder than applying for a grading permit. Boy was I wrong. Because we were repairing a bulkhead, and it was on a beach, we were screwed. Besides the county, 6 other government agencies wanted my money and for me to fill out reams of paperwork. Here in Washington, they’ve at least consolidated it to a process called [JARPA ](http://www.epermitting.wa.gov/site/alias%5F%5Fresourcecenter/9983/default.aspx?ref=seabits.com)for Joint Aquatic Resource Permit Application. Unfortunately, it’s hundreds of pages of detail, much of which I couldn’t figure out. On top of that, contacting any of these agencies referred you to the others in an endless circle of bureaucracy. I’ve worked with various permit agencies before, and I realize that there are regulations and reasons for what they do. In many cases, they were very stringent with what their requirements and processes were for. I completely understood, or at least understood where they were coming from. That’s not the case here. I cannot believe the stupidity and sheer red tape that is in place that makes a homeowner completely unable to repair a failing system that is putting their property and neighbors at risk. I’m not asking to build a huge wall – I love the environment and do as much as I can to protect it. I want to \*\*replace \*\*some damaged boards, and fix what I and everyone else has considered a hazardous situation. I finally resorted to hiring someone who specializes in the permit process. Since then, things have gone better, but the stupidity continues. At one point, someone in the process said that there were bald eagles nearby, so we might have to pay to have an endangered species survey. I’m not sure how replacing boards in a bulkhead would really change what bald eagles are doing, but I’m sure it’s another way for the state to make money. At another point, we were advised we’d have to get insurance for any inspector coming on site to our location. That way if they hurt themselves, the state didn’t have to pay L&I for them – our insurance would! This almost made me lose it! I eventually argued with them and they backed down. Now, we’re being told we have to grow specific plants and grasses across a large portion of our yard since we’re near a marine area. I really don’t understand how we can suddenly be required to do this when no one else for miles around on the beach has the same requirements. This proposal would take a significant amount of our land away and obscure our view. People on the island told me I should just fix it and deal with it afterwards. We’ve already missed our construction window (again – 3rd year in a row!) and there’s no end in sight. It feels like the right thing to do is to just do it and deal with the consequences afterwards. I think we’ll end up spending $5,000 on permits and fees for a job that will cost about the same. It really truly believe that the State of Washington and King County are doing a disservice to us, the people who live here. They’re making it harder to maintain and improve property that they continually raise the taxes on. At some point, people will just do what they need to do, or go find another place to live where they aren’t so stupid. ### Fuel polishing URL: https://seabits.com/fuel-polishing/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:28:14.000Z For a while I have been searching for a solution to polish my fuel on the sailboat. My motivation stemmed from one harrowing sail which I wrote about where dirt caused the engine to fail, and two other times where I’ve had to deal with the fuel filter at inopportune times – just when you need the engine the most as it always seems! Most of the systems I’ve looked at before are far too complicated, or require a huge amount of space. One I’ve always admired is the [Filter Boss](http://www.ktisystems.com/Articles.asp?ID=122&ref=seabits.com) from KTI Systems – it allows you to switch fuel filters on the fly with the engine still running. While it’s primary purpose is to have filter redundancy, there are also ways of configuring it to provide fuel polishing. Besides the space required, many of the other systems require a separate fuel polishing loop, which I also wanted to avoid. Due to space constraints when my engine was redone, the filter was placed on the opposite side of the boat from the fuel tank. Adding another fuel filter and loop just for polishing has never really been an option due to space and connections into my existing tank. Recently I was reading online and found [Parker Fuel Polishing](http://www.parkerfuelpolishing.com/?ref=seabits.com). After reviewing various sources online and reading a lot of material about their systems, I ordered their FPM-050 Fuel Polishing Module, and Programmable Timer. Their system is much smaller (one small pump) and it can be used in-line. I liked this approach since by default it’s left in an open state, allowing fuel to flow through, when it’s not in use. Combine that with the Programmable Timer, and you have a really good system that will pull fuel through while you’re not using the engine, and keep it in good shape for when you need it. I think this system will be good to keep the fuel clean and usable while using the existing filter and system, and not requiring a huge amount of new equipment and space. More after it’s installed… ### Collinite - magic stuff for boats URL: https://seabits.com/collinite-magic-stuff-boats/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:28:38.000Z I’ve been through a lot of different waxes and treatments for boats that always seem to take forever to apply, or have some catch. I recently had my boat out of the water, and the cockpit and rest of the deck really needed some help after having been exposed to the elements for a year without much other than the usual wash down. Enter Collinite – I saw this stuff at Fisheries Supply and read a bunch about it online. I started with [Fiberglass Boat Cleaner No. 920](http://www.collinitemarine.com/products.htm?ref=seabits.com#920) and then applied [Paste Fleetwax No. 885](http://www.collinitemarine.com/products.htm?ref=seabits.com#885). The Boat Cleaner is designed to strip away any discoloration and restore the gelcoat – it was nearly instantaneous, and very easy to do. I started by using a paper towel to apply it, and then a clean one to wipe it off, which brought with it a lot of dirt and cleared out the “pores” of the fiberglass. I ended up using a stiff brush as the project progressed, and paper towels to clean it up once the brush loosened up things. It took a fraction of the time for this part than any of the other systems I’ve used, and the fiberglass looked amazing, even at this stage. The Paste Fleetwax is really thick stuff, and is really easy to apply as well. Wipe on, let it dry a bit, and then buff it to a shine. It really seems to work well with the Fiberglass Boat Cleaner to form a very tough shell. All in all, it still took a good solid day to do all of the top of the boat, but I spent a long, long time in the cockpit doing every last inch of it – even in the corners and such, which I didn’t do with previous solutions. The only issue was that for the first day or so, any surface that had been waxed was AMAZINGLY slippery – very dangerous – far more slippery than anything I had ever seen. Since I waxed all of the non-slip tread as well, it made for a very difficult time moving around the boat. Since the treatment, things have continued to look really good. I am waiting to see how it looks over the summer and with use. Definitely would recommend their products for ease of use and initial quality. ### Yearly haul out URL: https://seabits.com/yearly-haul-out/ Last updated: 2021-01-24T16:57:07.000Z I’ve been through a lot of different waxes and treatments for boats that always seem to take forever to apply, or have some catch. I recently had my boat out of the water, and the cockpit and rest of the deck really needed some help after having been exposed to the elements for a year without much other than the usual wash down. Enter Collinite – I saw this stuff at Fisheries Supply and read a bunch about it online. I started with [Fiberglass Boat Cleaner No. 920](http://www.collinitemarine.com/products.htm?ref=seabits.com#920) and then applied [Paste Fleetwax No. 885](http://www.collinitemarine.com/products.htm?ref=seabits.com#885). The Boat Cleaner is designed to strip away any discoloration and restore the gelcoat – it was nearly instantaneous, and very easy to do. I started by using a paper towel to apply it, and then a clean one to wipe it off, which brought with it a lot of dirt and cleared out the “pores” of the fiberglass. I ended up using a stiff brush as the project progressed, and paper towels to clean it up once the brush loosened up things. It took a fraction of the time for this part than any of the other systems I’ve used, and the fiberglass looked amazing, even at this stage. The Paste Fleetwax is really thick stuff, and is really easy to apply as well. Wipe on, let it dry a bit, and then buff it to a shine. It really seems to work well with the Fiberglass Boat Cleaner to form a very tough shell. All in all, it still took a good solid day to do all of the top of the boat, but I spent a long, long time in the cockpit doing every last inch of it – even in the corners and such, which I didn’t do with previous solutions. The only issue was that for the first day or so, any surface that had been waxed was AMAZINGLY slippery – very dangerous – far more slippery than anything I had ever seen. Since I waxed all of the non-slip tread as well, it made for a very difficult time moving around the boat. Since the treatment, things have continued to look really good. I am waiting to see how it looks over the summer and with use. Definitely would recommend their products for ease of use and initial quality. ### ScanStrut Self Leveling Radar Pole URL: https://seabits.com/scanstrut-self-leveling-radar-pole/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:29:41.000Z In my last post here, I talked about my new [Simrad NSE and the BR24 radar](https://seabits.com/simrad-nse12-br24/). Some of you asked me how I mounted the BR24 and I said I’d write about it a bit. Here we go… After reviewing a bunch of options, I found ScanStrut to have the best quality and most options from me to choose from. I visited a couple of marine stores and looked at their design, as well as wandered around my marina to see what others used. I knew I wanted it stern mounted because of the wiring headaches of trying to get it up the mast. The three choices I had left were: [pole mounted](http://www.scanstrut.com/products/product-page.php?range%5Fid=10006&type=&ref=seabits.com), [backstay mounted](http://www.scanstrut.com/products/product-page.php?range%5Fid=10009&type=&ref=seabits.com), [self leveling radar pole mounted](http://www.scanstrut.com/products/product-page.php?range%5Fid=10019&type=&ref=seabits.com). My preference initially was backstay mounted, which ScanStrut has a very nice kit for. Unfortunately, I have a swim ladder and split backstay, so making this work was either going to require major modifications to the kit, or losing my swim step’s functionality, and drilling holes in the stern of the boat, which is angled a bit and would have been somewhat more difficult. ![2010-04-01 17.56.29](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/04/2010-04-01-17.56.29.jpg) So I chose the [self leveling radar pole mounted](http://www.scanstrut.com/products/product-page.php?range%5Fid=10019&type=&ref=seabits.com) option. In addition, I added the [GPS/VHF mount](http://www.scanstrut.com/products/accessories-page.php?accessory%5Fid=10009&type=&ref=seabits.com) so I could mount my new Simrad GPS antenna here as well. I mounted it on the port side of the boat right near the stern. It turned out really well. The main attachment point at the bottom of the pole is a ball and socket joint with very tight connections once you tighten things down. It’s also connected to the railing for additional lateral support, and you can see the forward facing support pole as well. It doesn’t obscure any lifeline areas. One side benefit is that I was able to mount a bracket on the lower portion of the pole for my VHF handheld extension for my Icom radio. Far better than having it in the pocket nearby where it’s hard to hear. The ScanStrut kit was extremely well designed – detailed plans for installation with very clear instructions and options. The quality of the pole and mount was excellent at every level. From the snap on caps to protect the screws, to the obvious quality in the head unit that provides the self leveling. ![2010-04-01 17.55.38](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/04/2010-04-01-17.55.38.jpg) Cables run through the side of the pole and are covered well, and easy to access at the bottom of the pole. The self leveling part of the unit has worked very well so far, and the radar performance is great having it always level even while sailing. GPS accuracy is good as well since the antenna is away from all of the other junk and interference and is also always level. I would highly recommend the ScanStrut product – it’s a bit more pricey that some of the other options out there, but the quality is well worth the extra cost, especially for something this important. ### Simrad NSE12 + BR24 URL: https://seabits.com/simrad-nse12-br24/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:29:52.000Z For a while I have been planning a new system on my sailboat for navigation. I started out back in 2007 with a [Garmin GPSMAP 5208](http://static.squarespace.com/static/52f1c1eee4b0ee0635aa2a5b/52f1e556e4b03354581773f7/52f1e5ace4b03354581776aa/1391584684440/?format=original&ref=seabits.com) which worked great at the time. It was a touch screen system, and a bit on the small size for the display. Over time I found many errors with the charts, problems with it keeping up with the amount of AIS targets I had (the fan would spin up and the UI would slow to a crawl) plus a few other things. I have been watching the developments of broadband radar via [panbo.com](http://www.panbo.com/?ref=seabits.com) and other places online, and wanted to add that to my boat for safety reasons. After a lot of research, I choose the [Simrad NSE12](http://www.simrad-yachting.com/Products/Navigation-Fishfinding/Simrad-NSE12/?ref=seabits.com) multi function display, and [BR24 radar](http://www.simrad-yachting.com/Products/Marine-Radars/Broadband-Radar/?ref=seabits.com). One of the reasons I’m writing my thoughts up here is that while there is a lot of info on manufacturer’s sites, they don’t let you delve deeper into their products without (a) buying them, (b) seeing them at a store, or (c) reading their entire manuals. And what most of us care about, the user interface, isn’t something you can see except for (a) and (b) which are either short term (a) or a purchase. I’ve taken a bunch of screen shots and written up my thoughts to help anyone else interested in Simrad’s stuff… # Background I already had a [Simrad TP32 tiller pilot](http://www.simrad-yachting.com/Products/Autopilots/Tillerpilots/TP32-Tillerpilots/?ref=seabits.com), and a [Brookhouse NMEA multiplexer](http://brookhouseonline.com/nmeamux%5Fais.htm?ref=seabits.com) (more on this soon), [Icom M504](http://www.icomamerica.com/en/products/m504/?ref=seabits.com) DSC capable radio, plus [Tactick](http://www.tacktick.com/page.home?ref=seabits.com) wind, compass, and depth instruments, so integrating these were a priority. Having the Simrad TP32 made the choice even nicer because it can interface with the NSE12 over a SimNet connection. I considered Raymarine, Garmin and Simrad before choosing, and Simrad was the only one who had a broadband radar that had been around longer than the others, and had a very well designed interface on the MFD to charts, radar and all of the components. Some of the other vendors had broadband-like radar, or MFDs that would support something similar, but they hadn’t been around as long, or had similar interface problems that I had found in the Garmin that I was trying to avoid. They also didn’t have the depth of features, nor the Navionics charts, which ended up playing a bigger part in my decision than I thought it would. Why did I choose an MFD over running something like Coastal Explorer on a laptop? Well, I do run Coastal Explorer on a laptop, and use it a lot for planning and investigation, since it’s much easier to do that at home than on the boat. The concern with using something like CE as a primary navigation aid is the PC itself. Having a deep PC background myself, and watching simple non-marinized components degrade after a winter of disuse, and looking at the exorbitant prices for a marine PC, I chose the MFD route. I think in 2-3 years PC components and cases will have gotten to the stage where MFDs will have a lot of serious competition. For now, I wanted something that was completely protected from the elements, took a small amount of power, and offered something as close as possible to a PC experience as possible. In a week or so, I’ll write up an experiment I did with a semi-marinized PC and Coastal Explorer with a Planar touch screen. Not quite ready for prime-time yet! # My configuration I have an NSE12 connected via NMEA0183 @ 38400 baud to a Brookhouse NMEA AIS multiplexer. Connected to the multiplexer as well is my Icom 504 radio, Tactick NMEA gateway, Simrad TP32 tiller pilot, and ACR Nauticast Class-B AIS transponder. Connected directly to the NSE12 is the BR24 radar, which I mounted on a Scanstrut self-leveling pole (more on that in the future) along with the add-on GPS extender for the [Simrad GS15 GPS Antenna](http://www.simrad-yachting.com/Products/Antenna/GS15-GPS-Antenna/?ref=seabits.com). The TP32 and GS15 are connected to my SimNet, which is also connected to the NSE12. # NSE12 screen, case and user interface The NSE12 is very well built – the case feels like you could hit it with a sledge hammer and it would still work. The cabling and all other aspects of the outside are similar to many of the other MFD’s. The control interface is well designed and easy to use, and backlit very well in all conditions I’ve used it in. What is really amazing is the screen – it’s so crisp and clear from all angles, and can be adjusted a wide range of brightness. The other fun thing is that the NSE12 draws between .2 and .3 AMPS less than my smaller Garmin GPSMAP 5208! Most of this I assume is due to the LED backlit screen on the NSE12. ![IMG_7996](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4315381314_b4f99a9221_o.jpg) # Touch or No Touch? I really liked the touch screen interface with the Garmin, and in choosing the Simrad NSE12, I gave that up. The best part of that interface was to move around on the chart and find a new point of interest or AIS ship. Navigating menus via the touch interface always had it’s problems/challenges. There were drop down or scroll bars that were extremely hard to use, if not impossible. And if it happened to be cold outside, you had to lose one of the gloves to get it to work. Many people have asked if rain was a problem – I didn’t see too much of a problem with the water, but it was down below in a sheltered location. Simrad did an excellent job of providing controls to the user – there’s a scroll wheel that you can click with as well as scroll, a directional pad, and an in-out button. I use the directional pad most of the time to move the cursor around. It’s still new to me and I’m not anywhere near as good as I was with touch, but I am sure I will get there. There’s also a numeric keypad, which at first glance seemed a bit dated. After having used it a number of times to enter waypoint names, navigate quick menus, and the like, I can say it’s a step up from the on screen keyboards or messy scroll keyboards that other solutions have. It works similar to cell phone text entry, and is pretty fast for entering names and letters. I really like the menu system that Simrad has put together. Things are ordered logically, and organized in large blocks – I hate user interfaces that hide everything that isn’t relevant, or require many clicks to get to what you want to see. Simrad has simplified some things, but generally speaking the menus contain everything you could want to change or see in one place. And navigating with the click wheel is a breeze. # Night mode ![IMG_7999](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4315381574_67b0c00d61_o.jpg) Night mode on the NSE12 is one highlight in their design. Not only does the chart or other object change colors that are more conducive to night navigation, but the unit’s backlit keys change to red as well. The only odd thing is the gradiated colors at the top of the instrument panel which you can see in the screen shot below. I like the colors they’ve chosen for the maps more than the Garmin and Raymarine interfaces I’ve seen. They’re easy to read in low light, and easy to identify the same key areas as the daylight lighting. In many other MFD’s, night light is a lot of red text and colors, which are hard for me to see. The most disappointing thing with night mode, and for that matter, the general mode is that it is not auto sensing or driven based off of GPS time, as far as I have seen. Both Raymarine and Garmin did this in past systems, and I found it to be a nice convenience. Whether it simply switched to night mode at the right time, or changed the brightness on the screen based on ambient light. That feature seems to be missing from Simrad. ![4312278745_e35474e013_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4312278745_e35474e013_o.png) # Charts The charts on the NSE12 really shine. I purchased the Navionics Platinum Plus charts for the Puget Sound area, and have been very impressed with their level of detail. It was a bit hard to find the option to enable them at first, but once turned on, they are easy to use and fast. This choice turned out to be one of the cornerstones in my overall selection of MFD solution. I had seen Navionics charts a few years ago, but there wasn’t anything that, to me, set them apart from what I had with g2 Vision from Garmin, or some of the options that Raymarine offered. In the last year I had a lot of time to research and see Navionics charts and was truly impressed. Speed is one of the areas that Simrad’s marketing talks a lot about – how fast redraws are with chart options enabled. I’ve done a lot of testing on this, as it was one of my bigger complaints about the Garmin technology. According to various sources, Simrad has a 1.6Ghz CPU in the NSE12 allowing for the graphics speed. I would imagine it’s an Atom-based CPU or other low power consuming chip. ![4312962270_27fbb0f16a_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4312962270_27fbb0f16a_o.png) In my screen shot below, I have the charts in 2D mode with all of the options turned on. Redraw zooming in and out is nearly instantaneous. I have never seen an MFD keep up that fast. I use Coastal Explorer on a laptop for trip planning, and it has problems zooming as fast as the NSE, and it’s on a pretty fast system with beefy graphics hardware. Enabling 3D mode slows things down, but only a small amount. 3D mode to me is a nice-to-have, but so far it hasn’t solved any urgent problems I’ve had. It’s very interesting to see some of the places you frequent in 3D mode and fly through them – a completely different perspective as you can see from the screen shot. ![4312223093_1db4ddd16b_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4312223093_1db4ddd16b_o.png) Photo charts are even better. The digital imagery they used here is very clear and crisp, and scales very well when zooming in and out. You can see the detail in the screen shot below of the Ballard Locks. ![4312968724_22c2632e1a_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4312968724_22c2632e1a_o.png) Again, moving around and zooming with photo charts is pretty fast – the photos do take a bit longer than anything else to show up if you are panning. If you’re zooming, it’s near instant. ![4312965950_4b1190ffcd_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4312965950_4b1190ffcd_o.png) Where things start to slow down is when you turn 3D chart mode and photos on at the same time. Part of this in my case was because the photos didn’t exist in all areas, but much of it is the system having to render not only 3D charts, but find and render the photos in pseudo-3D as well. I don’t think it’s a showstopper at all – after all, I am asking for it to do the hardest thing it can while tracking 100+ AIS targets and dealing with all of the other things going on. Overall, the charts functionality is what you would expect from a top end MFD, and faster than any other system I’ve seen out there. # Utilities One of the areas that I think Simrad doesn’t talk about a lot is in their utilities and pages areas. Here you can do things like have a display of instruments, navigation headings and XTE stuff, as well as manage your saved files, screen shots (yes!) and do the usual sun/moon/tides interactions. I think these interfaces are surprisingly well done – most of these on MFDs are after thoughts and scattered all over the UI. In Simrad’s case, they are centralized and easy to use. ![4312227809_c79c14cc61_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4312227809_c79c14cc61_o.png) # Alarms One area in particular that shines for Simrad is in their alarms management page. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve hunted around in an MFD interface to disable an alarm that was going off over and over (AIS targets are a big one) and found it buried in some sub-screen. In Simrad’s case, they give them all to you on one page – extremely convenient and fast to figure out. # Radar A lot of reviews have been written on the BR24 broadband radar – I won’t re-hash all of that here. I am still impressed with it’s clarity and ability to pick out really small objects with high degrees of accuracy. ![4312961534_1be43a1b5b_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4312961534_1be43a1b5b_o.png) In the screen to the left you can see nearby buoys right outside of the marina entrance which are only about 3-5 feet tall and pretty narrow – the BR24 found them though… Not to mention the detail it shows of the marina and boats themselves. I haven’t yet found out how to customize the list of vessels on this page, and in many cases it seems to be pretty random what shows up on it – for instance, it’s showing three vessels that are between 6 and 10 NM away from me, when there are clearly marked AIS targets that are much closer than that. The controls on the radar page are, as many other reviews highlight, very well done. Being able to use the click scroll wheel to change the gain, sea clutter, and rain clutter is very well thought out. I also appreciate the ability to change the colors used for the screen – I’ve tried the yellow and green options (instead of red) and they can be useful in certain circumstances. There are a number of other great settings and details here in the radar menus – maybe sometime in the future once I learn more about them, I’ll post here. ![4312963946_69d5ed1404_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4312963946_69d5ed1404_o.png) One of the features I really like is being able to overlay the radar data on top of a chart. You can really begin to see the power of the whole MFD solution when using it this way. In the screen shot to the right, you can see the AIS vessel leaving the marina, and the radar echo that is quite a ways ahead of where AIS is reporting it. You can also see the buoys I mentioned further up in the channel, and many other landmarks that the BR24 is picking out. Seeing it overlaid on the chart is extremely helpful. For the ultimate in all features enabled, here’s 3D charts, photo overlay (land only) and radar overlay. ![4312965444_2c682a0469_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2010/02/4312965444_2c682a0469_o.png) # AIS The NSE12 has good AIS support. It doesn’t seem to lag or slow down like my Garmin did the moment it starts to discover more than 15 AIS targets. I am not particularly fond of the large triangle shapes, and bold for dangerous targets. I liked the Garmin shapes and colors better, but I assume this may be refined in newer versions of software. There’s a lot of configurability here that I didn’t see in Garmin or Raymarine in terms of how long you wanted the line out in front of the AIS target, and alarms settings as well. One of the more annoying things that always seems to happen with any AIS solution is the alarms for the AIS enabled boats in the marina that are not moving. They all pop up in the first couple of minutes of powering on. I am not sure if there is anything that could be done about that – i.e. see if they aren’t moving and not alarm, but I bet that would be a bad thing if there was a dangerous target that wasn’t moving ? On first startup the NSE is very quick to acquire all of the targets, and the [screens for viewing the data on a vessel ](http://www.flickr.com/photos/spmitchell/4312963340/in/set-72157623179875601/?ref=seabits.com)are very complete. Alarms themselves are well organized and clear when they occur. # Data Panel One nice touch is the ability to customize the data panel at the top of each screen. You can see that I have something different on the chart screen, versus the chart+radar screen, versus the radar screen. You can add just about any of the data you would think is relevant, and have two bars stacked like I do, or have a rotating bar. I really like vendors who choose to do things this way and give the power to the people who are using it, rather than fixed options that might contain 80% of what you want. The other nice thing is the status icons at the top right hand – they show the radar status (standby/transmit), GPS status, and if there are any outstanding alarms. It’s very easy to see the status of your entire system at a quick glance. # Boot up time Out of everything, this might be one of the biggest drawbacks from any of the new MFDs. The NSE12 takes a good 2 minutes to boot from the time you turn it on. I don’t think there’s much that can be done to change this. If you have flaky power, or if when you start your engine, things drop below normal voltages (you really should fix that – I did 2 years ago) then you might not like any of the newer MFDs. # Power consumption Power consumption on a sailboat is always important, and was one of my design concerns as well. The final system, with all of the instruments on, including the NSE12, draws about 2 AMPS. If I fire up the radar, I go up to about 3 AMPS, which is unheard of for radar power draw. If the tiller pilot is really working, and I’ve got all of these components up and running, I might get to 5 AMPS. That’s within the tolerances of what I set for a goal on power usage. Of course, I could shut off the radar, turn down the screen brightness on the NSE12, or even put it in standby (this saves about an amp). I could even shut it all off, and just use tiller pilot and solar charged Tactick instruments at about an amp of usage. Several of the other MFDs I looked at drew considerably more – especially those with similar screen sizes. Many of those are tailored towards power boats and video displays that suck a lot of power. # Integration with other instruments This turned out to be far more complicated than it should have been. The TP32 was easy – SimNet found it instantly, and it worked. Same with the new GPS antenna that I bought with the system. The NMEA0183 stuff was far more difficult. I’ve used NMEA0183 stuff for years, and had several multiplexers that help with this. In this case, the NSE12 only has one input/output port for NMEA0183, and for some reason, even though I had turned off many of the sentences from being transmitted from the NSE, it was still sending them. This created a headache for about 2 hours until I powered everything off and back on again, and magically things began to work. I will be writing up more of this in a separate post on integrating with the Brookhouse NMEA multiplexer I have. # Conclusion Overall, I’m very happy with my new system. I think the NSE12 has been very well designed from top to bottom, and has enough flexibility for end users, as well as a platform for Simrad to improve upon going forward. There are some areas that could use some improvement, but nothing that prevents me from using all functionality in a way that improves my voyage. Combine that with top notch charts, and an amazing new radar technology, and I feel that I have far more information at hand when navigating that will keep me safer on the water. ### Taking the ferry to work URL: https://seabits.com/taking-ferry-work/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:30:04.000Z The last few days I’ve been “commuting” from our place on Vashon Island into downtown Seattle. Part of it was a trial to see how it was to commute, and part of it was for fun – if you call getting up at 6AM fun. Monday I took the passenger ferry, which I’ve done hundreds of times, and it was no different than normal. Of course, I’m doing this during a week when traffic is light due to the holidays, but that’s OK for me. It was nice seeing the sunrise, and the drive was nice on the Vashon side. The Seattle side was less fun, but still not horrible. On the return trip, I had to wait a while to catch a ferry, but nothing hugely long. Tuesday and Wednesday I took the King County Water Taxi from Vashon directly to downtown, and then walked 45 minutes down the waterfront to work. Both times were excellent – the ferry trip was super fast (\~20 minutes) and smooth, the crew very efficient and polite. There were a few problems with the new ORCA cards, but that’s expected with something new. The walk from Coleman dock to work was nice – the first day it was freezing cold and I didn’t dress right, so I was a bit unhappy there, but the walk itself was nice. The sun was rising during the walk, ferries and ships were moving around, and of course a few trains went by just to keep me awake. I think if you have to commute, this sort of commute is pretty nice – a bit of exercise to start and end the day, and efficient mass transit in the middle. Of course, I am not doing this during a normal day (holidays and all) so I am sure it would be less fun if the boat was full/late/canceled. Nevertheless, commuting just as long in a car offers up the same style of interruptions and inconveniences with traffic problems and sports games ? I think it would be great to be able to ride my bike from the place on Vashon to the ferry terminal, and subsequently into work, but in talking with several others that commute regularly on the Water Taxi, those bike rack slots on the boat are hard to come by – maybe just cycling one end would be OK, and walking the other (Seattle side for walking!). Of course, that would mean actually getting back into shape since the ride from the house on Vashon to the ferry terminal is super long (11 miles), and has a huge amount of hills. It’s good to know that commuting isn’t that bad, though… ### Climbing the mast URL: https://seabits.com/climbing-the-mast/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:30:17.000Z Over the last few weeks, I’ve had to climb the mast of my sailboat to get at some things that were broken, and also to install a new system to control my mainsail. I’m afraid of heights, and so doing this was no small task. A few years ago I bought a system that ran up the track in the mast and it had foot loops in it. It came with a belt to hold you around the mast as you went up, sort of line a lineman’s toolbelt. It really didn’t work all that well. The foot loops were amazingly uncomfortable – very little support in them. Your feet would get stuck in them since they flexed so much, and that wasn’t a good thing since you would be fighting getting your foot in and out of the loop. Add to that the somewhat supportive belt, but still requires another rope connected to it for you to go up. A friend of mine tried to go up, and he’s not afraid of heights, and he didn’t want to go all the way up on this thing. I made it up to the first set of spreaders on my boat, and gave up. About 6 months ago, I saw an ad in some sailing magazine for a product called the [ATN Topclimber](http://www.atninc.com/atn-mastclimber-sailing-equipment.shtml?ref=seabits.com). It is a different concept – rig a static line, attach this enhanced bosun’s chair and foot loops to it, and up you go. Oh, and it can be run by a single person, instead of having someone hoist you up, etc. Obviously the more folks, the safer, but if I had something I needed to do and didn’t want to coordinate a whole party of folks… I ended up purchasing one, along with a good length of high quality line as recommended (1/2″). Many folks recommend just going out and purchasing climbing equipment, as it’s likely cheaper, and very similar. I opted to purchase this since it was designed for this purpose to begin with, and didn’t have lots of extra stuff to contend with or learn. It also packs up very small in an included bag, which happens to also turn into a bag to carry items up with you. I’m happy to say I’ve been up the mast a number of times, and even all the way to the top, which I never thought I’d get to. It’s so easy to just work your way up, and at least for folks who are afraid of heights like me, I found that looking out, and not down, while you’re going up, makes it much easier. It also, in some weird way, is much more comforting to not be attached directly to the mast itself – having the static line very tight is key. I’ve also found that having the static line angled away from the mast is key so you don’t bump into it on the way up. Plan your angle to come within 1 foot of where you want to stop to work. The other big benefit of this system is being able to go up on your own, say in an emergency. I don’t know if I would do that, especially in a dire emergency. I’m not one to be hanging around on the mast with a big storm going, unless it’s that or death I guess… Regardless, it’s compact enough that you could take it on a trip away from your normal marina, and if something happened, like a lost halyard or clipped VHF antenna, you could go up and take care of business without having to wait to go back to the dock. It’s still somewhat disconcerting to be at the top of the mast, but it’s much safer feeling being strapped totally into the chair, and having the foot straps that you can push off of as well to gain more strength/force, as well as move around. The only thing I think could be improved are the instructions. The only details are a single laminated card, and the pictures are very hard to see and understand. It’s a pretty obvious setup, and I didn’t have any problems, but it would be nice to see the pictures larger. Overall, I’m extremely happy and I think it’s well worth the money. I saved already having to pay some local marine folks to climb my mast and fix three things! ### Living on a houseboat? URL: https://seabits.com/living-on-a-houseboat/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:30:32.000Z I’ve been thinking off and on for a while about moving from my current 1 bedroom, 900sf apartment into something a little more unique, and a little larger. Friday, a new rental came up on an RSS feed I have for[ SeattleRentals.com](http://www.seattlerentals.com/?ref=seabits.com) – a house boat on Lake Union in the Eastlake neighborhood. In fact, there are at least three for rent in the same general area. I love the water – sailing on it, being near it. I own a place with two other friends out on Vashon Island right on the sound, and I love getting out in my sailboat as often as possible. I think it would be amazing to live on the water. I’ve considered living on my sailboat, but that requires a significant lifestyle change, plus it’s hard to find liveaboard slips around the area. So the big question is – what should I be thinking about in living on a houseboat? I’ve read a bunch of stuff about the communities and fun things, but I want to know what to watch out for. The things that aren’t so fun or nice or interesting. My biggest concern is the neighborhood location – I’m used to living on Queen Anne, which is literally 5 minutes from work, all on pretty un-busy city streets. And it’s only a couple of blocks away from restaurants and grocery stores. The Eastlake area isn’t as close to those things. And it’s pretty difficult traffic to get from Eastlake over to work, or to my friends house that I spend lots of time at. If you have thoughts, let me know… still thinking about the options… ### Sailing ... slightly cold but still nice URL: https://seabits.com/sailing-slightly-cold-still-nice/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:30:47.000Z In the last two weeks I’ve been out on the water twice, once only for a short sail (about 2 hours) and today for about 4\. Last week it never got above 40 degrees, and there was ice on the deck when I left. Today it was a little warmer, but still only got up to 50 degrees. As I always do when I’m sailing, I used my [SPOT Satellite Tracker](http://www.findmespot.com/en/?ref=seabits.com) to send notes to my crew on shore to let them know I was OK. My [Tacktick wind instrument](http://www.tacktick.com/products/145?ref=seabits.com) isn’t working, and I’m working to get it repaired, so I ended up having to spend a lot more time paying attention to the wind and steering more manually, which is fine with me, at least every once in a while. At one point there were some sustained winds of at least 25kts for about 45 minutes – very fun! The new [Nauticast AIS](https://seabits.com/acr-nauticast-class-b-transponder) transponder is working great – I removed my SR 162 AIS receiver and took it home (more on this later) and directly wired the Nauticast into my chartplotter and multiplexer a few days ago. I’m hoping others are seeing me too – the whole reason for broadcasting it in the first place. Hopefully I’ll get some more chances to sail even in these cold months! ### ACR Nauticast Class B transponder URL: https://seabits.com/acr-nauticast-class-b-transponder/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:31:08.000Z **Update Early 2015: I have since moved to a new boat, and have a Vesper XB-8000 AIS unit. The ACR Nauticast unit failed in 2012, and was replaced with another Vesper model.** The final piece of my navigation and safety additions to my sailboat finally came in – an AIS Class B transponder. I chose the [ACR Nauticast-B](http://www.nauticast.com/index.php?id=333&ref=seabits.com) kit which includes a bunch of different things. This post contains a lot of information on unboxing and initial playing of the unit. I sail primarily near Elliott Bay in Puget Sound, Seattle, WA. My sailboat currently has an AIS receiver that I have had for over a year, and it has proven well worth the investment. I have it connected to my Garmin GPSMAP 5208 chartplotter, and shows a lot of details on ships moving around me. Elliott Bay is very busy – two major ferry routes terminate here, and there are countless cargo ships and cruise liners moving around. I wanted to go to the next level and have the ability to broadcast my location out via AIS-B so that those folks who choose to listen will see me. I like sailing in Puget Sound, and I think that this will be a key safety system in making sure others see me ahead of time as well. I purchased the unit through [Milltech Marine](http://www.milltechmarine.com/AIS-300.htm?ref=seabits.com) – great folks with a lot of expertise in this area, and right in my backyard on Bainbridge Island. They processed the necessary paperwork, which included getting details on my boat, measurements where the GPS antenna will be installed, and of course my existing MMSI number. # The Box The unit came in a long box with the following items: - VHF antenna, mounting, cables - GPS antenna, mounting, cables - CDs of software - Manuals - Nauticast unit - Cable from Nauticast to GPS, VHF, etc. ![IMG_7864](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2009/01/IMG_7864.jpg) One thing of note – I explored whether I could use my existing VHF splitter and antenna for this, but Doug at Milltech recommended that I not do that. There was a different setup I could put together, which I still may end up needing to do, but the preferred way is for the unit to have it’s own dedicated VHF antenna. Keep in mind that the system will be broadcasting your location and vessel details constantly, and sometimes frequently depending on your speed, etc. Sharing your existing VHF antenna could be problematic if you need to, say, make a VHF call for some reason. # The Antennas The VHF antenna looks to be decent quality. It’s an AIS branded antenna, whatever that means. It comes with a decent length of cable, and molded ends on both ends. That’s going to be a bit of an issue when snaking it through the various places and out aboveboards. It’ll likely get cut and have to be re-ended. It would have been nice had it come with a spare end, uncrimped and unconnected. I’d guess the antenna is about 3′ tall. It doesn’t come with a wealth of mounting options, but the base has the necessary holes and bracket to be mounted just about any way you’d like. The GPS antenna is an ACR branded model and comes with a Glomex mount base. The same goes here for both the cable and the base – the cable has the end on it, and the base has little mounting options included other than a flat surface. ![IMG_7865](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2009/01/IMG_7865.jpg) # The Transponder The transponder itself looks very well made – rugged and water proof with easy to see indicator lights, and cable connections. It has good lockdown screw holes around the unit, and is nicely compact so it can fit in some out of the way location. ![IMG_7868](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2009/01/IMG_7868.jpg) There are three connectors – one for VHF, one for GPS, and one large one for the interface cable. The interface cable fits very snugly, and has very long screw-downs, along with a very tight waterproof seal. The cable itself has connections to power, RS432, RS232, and for a switch. ![IMG_7870](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2009/01/IMG_7870.jpg) # Testing a little After unboxing, I wanted to give it a test at home. I connected everything together, put the GPS and VHF outside, and powered up the unit. I had loaded the Link2AIS software provided by ACR, and connected things via the RS232 serial interface, and waited for a bit while the unit acquired GPS satellites. I was using my new Dell Mini 9 that I plan on having on the sailboat as my primary computer given it’s low power consumption and lack of moving parts. The Dell doesn’t have a serial port, but I had a Keyspan USB-serial adapter. Milltech sells these as well. The system came up pretty quickly, and using the Link2AIS software I was able to see vessels near me pretty quickly. There are a lot of really nicely thought out options in Link2AIS for configuring the unit, but the majority of it is not useful for actual route planning or looking at AIS targets. It’s a pretty basic application from that perspective. You can see some additional screen shots of the setup screens and positioning information in my [set on Flickr](http://www.flickr.com/photos/spmitchell/sets/72157611876841582/?ref=seabits.com). What I really wanted to play around with was Coastal Explorer, the navigation software I use. I fired it up, told it to discover my GPS, and it found the unit immediately. A few minutes later, I had a whole host of targets on the screen just as you would expect. I waited about 15 minutes, but I was never able to find my vessel on any of the online, web-based AIS tracking sites. I’m not sure if that’s because I was not waiting long enough, on land (!), or because those sites only show AIS class A transponders. I think I can assume that I’m showing up on everyone else’s receivers based on the fact that the transmit light on the unit was going quite frequently, and the software indicated that it was working OK, and had my MMSI and all the appropriate details. I suppose one way to test would be to use my existing AIS receiver and see if I appear on my chartplotter! I guess I will have to wait until I install it to find out for sure… # Overall Impressions The unit is very well built, and included are the basic pieces to get you up and running. The software is solid, and has all of the features, and then some, to configure, maintain, and troubleshoot any problems you might have. The documentation is complete, thorough and very well written. # References - Entire set of unboxing photos on Flickr: [http://www.flickr.com/photos/spmitchell/sets/72157611876841582/](http://www.flickr.com/photos/spmitchell/sets/72157611876841582/?ref=seabits.com) - Milltech Marine: [http://www.milltechmarine.com/AIS-300.htm](http://www.milltechmarine.com/AIS-300.htm?ref=seabits.com) - ACR Nauticast: [http://www.nauticast.com/index.php?id=333](http://www.nauticast.com/index.php?id=333&ref=seabits.com) ### Favorite G1/Android stuff URL: https://seabits.com/favorite-g1-android-stuff/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:32:06.000Z I’ve had the G1 for a while now, and have found a few things that are must-haves both in hardware and software. First, the [Innocell ](https://www.seidioonline.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BASI14TMG1&ref=seabits.com) [1400mAh Extended Life Battery](https://www.seidioonline.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BASI14TMG1&ref=seabits.com) from Seidio is a must. The original stock battery would not get me through a day unless I plugged it in at least once at my desk during the day. If I turned WiFi or any other options (location, Bluetooth, GPS) on during the day, and did a moderate amount of surfing in meetings, I was done. This new battery seems to last a lot longer, and allows me to use the phone off and on throughout the day, with WiFi, and without any problems. Much happier. Too bad T-Mobile didn’t ship this with the phone… Next, for work email, the [K-9 mail application](http://code.google.com/p/k9mail/?ref=seabits.com). This app works far faster with remote IMAP servers than the default one, and has a lot of good support for Exchange server. It’s also got a great interface for quickly deleting and reading messages, and actually supports deleting messages on a remote IMAP server, which the default app doesn’t either. It has a streaamlined interface especially if you have the phone opened with the keyboard exposed – one line per email message – very efficient. Of course, Anycut is a must for creating shortcuts to other apps elsewhere. Another great application is dgAlert Prefs – it allows you to customize what happens when you get an SMS. The default sound choices for me, and lack of repeatability and control were always a bother. I get a decent amount of SMSes for work related purposes, and want to make sure if I miss one, it re-notifies me. dgAlert does this, as well as allows you to control the LED color and blinking when a message is received. It takes a bit to set it up as the UI is a bit rough, but it has worked very well for me since then. Another one for SMS is Chomp SMS. It has an iPhone like interface and works even with the keyboard hidden – nice for a quick SMS. The screen space and key size in that mode are a little hard to use sometimes, but it’s better than opening the whole keyboard. The last one is [PixelPipe](http://pixelpipe.com/?ref=seabits.com). This app allows me to snap a bunch of pictures, and then add titles and details and upload to Flickr with a quick click. It’s also capable of sending photos a lot of other places. ### Switched to T-Mobile G1 URL: https://seabits.com/switched-t-mobile-g1/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:32:31.000Z A few days ago I got a call from AT&T saying that I was likely going to have an increase on my cell phone bill due to the amount of SMS’es I send and receive. I had upgraded to the iPhone 3G shortly after it came out, and had an unlimited SMS plan. Unlimited, to AT&T, doesn’t mean unlimited. Apparently if you go over some threshold that only they know, they consider you using this service beyond what “normal” users would, and as such, they would like to charge you more than even the unlimited amount. After a few calls back and forth to AT&T and working my way up the chain, it was obvious that even without this increase in my plan, that there were other increases coming to iPhone customers, especially anyone who uses them for business reasons, as I did. So at \~$120 a month after taxes and use, I felt it was time to look for another provider that not only charged less, but also had better coverage. For several years I had been struggling with getting good coverage both at home and at friends houses nearby. In many cases I would have no service at all for long periods of time. This was with three different phones, iPhone 1st gen, [AT&T Tilt](http://www.wireless.att.com/cell-phone-service/cell-phone-details/?q%5Fsku=sku1060009&ref=seabits.com), and the iPhone 3G. And this was in a pretty populated area of Seattle – [Queen Anne](http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=queen+anne,+wa&sll=47.632684,-122.356985&sspn=0.010758,0.027895&g=queen+anne,+wa&ie=UTF8&z=14&iwloc=addr&ref=seabits.com). I had used T-Mobile before, and had good success with them at home in terms of service coverage, but their phone models were lagging behind everyone else, and at the time I wanted the iPhone, so hence AT&T. A friend of mine had the new G1 phone, and after playing around a little with it, and with the [G1 simulator](http://tmobile.modeaondemand.com/htc/g1/?ref=seabits.com), I decided to go with the G1 on T-Mobile. The phone itself has a few quirks, including the Jay Leno-like chin at the bottom of the phone, which has taken some getting used to. But the rest of it is well designed and thought out. Battery life is an issue, just like any other 3G capable phone. All of the neat features everyone talks about can’t be used unless you charge it every 4-6 hours. The real exciting thing to me is the [Android ](http://code.google.com/android/?ref=seabits.com)operating system. It’s been well thought out, and being a bit of a Google centric person myself, I really like the integration with their services. In addition, many usability things that I have wished for in past phones have been well thought out here. So far, the coverage at home is excellent, and the phone has worked exactly as I would expect. Even by this point on other phones and networks, I would have found a few problems. I’m sure there will be some, but I’m pretty confident they’ll be small, or someone will fix them in the open source community. Looking forward to posts on the phone over the next few weeks as I learn more… ### Strange iPhone icon - SOLVED URL: https://seabits.com/strange-iphone-icon-solved/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:32:43.000Z **SOLVED** **Updated 10/13/2008** *I finally found out what the icon is – it’s for TTY access. Apparently I either turned it on by accident, or it came on by itself…* ![2923929566_b155f87612_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2008/10/2923929566_b155f87612_o-1.jpg) I have searched a bunch on this one, and haven’t found an answer. I’m using the new 3G iPhone, and the newest firmware (2.1) and today a strange icon appeared in the top bar that I can’t find anything about. It’s the second from the left in the close-up above – the keyboard and phone thing. Here’s a bigger version showing the whole screen… ![2923925064_daf7ced9e6_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2008/10/2923925064_daf7ced9e6_o-1.jpg) If you know something, please post a comment…. ### Boarded by the Coast Guard URL: https://seabits.com/boarded-coast-guard/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:32:57.000Z Yesterday I was out sailing with a friend in Elliott Bay, well I guess we weren’t really sailing because there was no wind…. anyhow, we were trying to figure out what to do next, and hadn’t planned on being out very long. We’d seen one of the smaller Coast Guard boats running around near us for a while, and when it came straight towards us, I figured something was going on. Sure enough, they politely asked if we had been boarded and inspected recently by the Coast Guard, to which I replied that we hadn’t. They then asked, again very politely, if they could do so. It didn’t really seem like a question that had an answer other than “sure”, so that’s what I said. They asked permission to come aboard, and two of them transferred, rather adeftly, to my boat to start the inspection. They looked at life jackets, bilges, wastewater pumpouts, toilets, fire extinguishers, flares, and engine compartments. They found a couple of things wrong, but since it was an inspection, they just asked me to fix them. I suppose they could have fined me, but they were extremely nice and courteous. We both asked some questions of them, about the process and regulations, and about their fast boat and strange weapons that they were more than happy to explain. Overall, it was a very pleasant experience, and at no time did I feel uncomfortable or anything at all. They were so super polite and efficient, and very courteous, as well as even a bit joking at the end. I’m glad they try to make it as stress-free as possible. I’ll be changing my fire extinguishers and zip-tying my pumpout valves here in the next few days just in case they decide to check up on me, and because it’s apparently the law. The only bad thing was that as a result of being below during very barfy waves, I got really motion sick and we had to abandon sailing about an hour afterward, and I barely made it to the dock. I was shot the rest of the day… ### SPOT Satellite Messenger Shared Page URL: https://seabits.com/spot-satellite-messenger-shared-page/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:33:08.000Z I’ve had a SPOT Satellite Messenger for about 6 months and really like it. I use it primarily when I sail to keep my friends updated on where I am, and if I’m safe. I have always been a little annoyed that the only ways they could keep track of my course were to save the individual SMS’es or emails that were sent, or I had to give them my password to my private online account at the SPOT home page. Recently, the folks at SPOT came out with the SPOT Shared Page to solve this problem. It’s still a little rough around the edges, but it’s far better than the previous solutions. The page contains a list of the last 24 hours worth of messenger check-ins on the left, and a Google Maps layout of the track on the right. You can click on the track to see more details. Seems to be pretty reliable – does seem to be browser picky right now – Firefox doesn’t seem to work sometimes, and Safari doesn’t work at all. There are some annoying formatting issues as well as images that are missing in some areas. Hopefully they’ll spruce some of this up as more folks find it – it is in beta as far as I understand it. ![2609009023_253e8a5f22_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2008/06/2609009023_253e8a5f22_o.jpg) ### EVDO update - Sprint vs Verizon URL: https://seabits.com/evdo-update-sprint-vs-verizon/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:33:20.000Z I’ve had some time to play with the EVDO options out there – I ended up getting a Sprint card in addition to the Verizon one I had as well. The Sprint card is a Novatel Wireless EX720, and I have the usual 5GB monthly plan. Both Verizon and Sprint have similar UI’s for their management applications. I like Verizon’s statistics graphing capabilities, but I much prefer the Sprint application for everything else – it seems to be better adapted to deal with Windows Vista. The actual service is far better on the Sprint network than Verizon. Based on my testing thus far, here’s some comparisons: **Verizon** Latency: 138ms Download: 756Kbps Upload: 182Kbps **Sprint** Latency: 101ms Download: 1094Kbps Upload: 435Kbps This is from the same location, the same night. The Verizon towers seem to be pretty consistently slower than Sprint. I’ll do some additional testing over the next week or two to see if things stay the same. Thus far, I’m going to stay with Sprint. ### Everyone is after me.... URL: https://seabits.com/everyone-is-after-me/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:33:36.000Z Above is a screen shot from my chart plotter at the end of the day when I was sailing/motoring back into Elliott Bay here in Seattle. The larger boat icon in the center with the compass wind indicator around it is me, the rest of the smaller boats with red lines emanating out of them are all of the AIS targets my system is warning me about. I had 3 Washington State Ferries closing in on my area – two car ferries and one fast passenger ferry, one tour boat, and eventually 2 tugs, one of which was going faster than I was, and on a similar course. AIS here only showed 2 of the three ferries, the tour boat, and the tug. I couldn’t take any more pictures of the system becaue I had to pay attention at that point, but it was pretty nice to be able to sit in the cockpit hatchway and glance down to see what else was coming around the point behind the bluff. I still haven’t figured out a great way to use the notification system within the Garmin unit for AIS. It goes off far too much and alerts when there are boats nearby on AIS sitting still. Other programs that are software based have more granularity and allow you to only fire off an alert when specific conditions are met, such as intercept within a certain amount of minutes. I’m hoping Garmin will get to that soon. ### Rule iL500 Portable Pump URL: https://seabits.com/rule-il500-portable-pump/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:33:48.000Z I’m always looking for a good pump, since the nature of having a boat is having to stave off water being in the boat at some point. I have a couple of manual bilge pumps, and of course a couple of powered ones permanently installed in the right places. But you can always use something more portable. While doing some random searches, I stumbled across a great idea from the folks at Rule – the [iL500 Portable Pump](http://www.rule-industries.com/products/pumps/slimline%5Fin%5Fline%5Fsubmersible%5Fpumps/il500%5Fplus%5Fpump%5Fkit%5F12v%5Fil500pk/iid%5F2529/index.htm?ref=seabits.com). It’s a portable pump that is submersible, can be used in-line, has battery clamps for quick use, comes with hose and a nozzle for spraydowns, and can be used for both water and diesel. I think it’s a great pump to have around when you happen to be away from the dock and need to get water out of somewhere hard to reach, or if you want to use the included nozzle to spray down an area – my boat’s not big enough to rank a dedicated spraydown system. They also built it so you could use it in-line – connect a section of hose before the pump, and down inside, say, a tank or hard to reach area, and then the other side of the pump would be plumbed into wherever you wanted to transfer the liquid. The included roll-flat hose, and convenient spray nozzle that clamps down on the flat hose are a nice convenience, as is the strainer for the non-in-line configuration. It would be nice if they had a kit or option to replace the battery terminal clamps with a standard 12VDC cigarette adapter for safer connections, and without having to find your battery terminals. You could always chop the cable and do that yourself I suppose. I found it online at West Marine, but it’s only sold in the “kit” version which includes all of the extras above. You can find it elsewhere as well, but I order so much from them it was more convenient to get it in the weekly shipment ? ![2453190643_ecbe556665_o](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2008/04/2453190643_ecbe556665_o.jpg) ### I hate heaters URL: https://seabits.com/i-hate-heaters/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:34:25.000Z How many heaters have you gone through? I use a West Marine 1500W cabin heater, the ones you can buy for around $70 that sit on the floor, to keep the boat heated in winter. I leave a door open to the engine compartment, and it also basically heats the rest of the boat without a problem. However, the last 3 years in a row, I end up having to buy a new heater. One year, I had to buy two. The problem is they’re really cheap, and then the other issue I believe is the water and marine environment. I found two major manufacturers out there who make bilge heaters, which is really what I care about. The best one with the smallest footprint appears to be [Xtreme Heaters](http://www.xtremeheaters.com/home.htm?ref=seabits.com). I’m considering the 750W model, even though my boat isn’t that large, I’d prefer that it kept the majority of the entire boat warm no matter what. I don’t like the temporary ones on the floor because of the potential for fire, movement, and because they seem to fail really easily. I’d like to get one of these bilge heaters, and I know I have the room, but I would also like something that gives the rest of the cabin a little bit more heat – the bilge heaters I’ve found only kick in at 40 degrees, and then off at 55 maximum. Not a really warm temperature if you happen to be working on the boat in an evening. Of course, I know I could use one of the portable units when I’m on the boat, but if I’m wiring in something new, why can’t it heat the entire boat? I can’t find anything but the bilge heaters that seem to have a decent enough warranty and design that they would last in a marine environment… I suppose I could just install two of them, but again, it’s still only going to get to 55 degrees at the most. What I really would like to find is a marine grade heater that runs off of AC power and is simple to mount and install. ### BioSok URL: https://seabits.com/biosok/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:34:36.000Z My previous engine had a meltdown before I had it removed, and that included dumping a huge quantity of watery oil into my bilge. Ever since then, oil makes it’s reappearance almost weekly within the bilge. I suppose I will never get rid of it completely… I’ve tried all sorts of things, from absorbent pads, to simply sucking it out with a high volume pump, and disposing of it appropriately. Nothing seems to work that well, at least not until I found [BioSok](http://www.bestmarineimports.com/Biosok.html?ref=seabits.com). It’s some sort of powdery looking chemical that reacts to oil and fuel, and pulls it into it, then uses some microbes to eat off the oil. I ended up buying two of the cloth socks, and one small bin of powder. I used the powder directly throughout the bilge on the surface to get the oil that had been in there for a while since the repower. I have the socks standing by to be used once the initial cleaning is done. So far, the powder has been in the bilge about a month, and it has turned a nasty dark brown color. I don’t see any oil in the water, or on any other surfaces of the bilge, which is good. I guess that means it’s doing it’s thing. At this point, I think I leave it for a while so the microbes can eat, or I could dispose of it appropriately somewhere. The stuff is the consistency of chocolate fudge – I’m sure it doesn’t taste as good though. I’m hoping in a few weeks things will dissipate more, and if not, I’ll clean it all out. At that point, I’ll drop one of those socks into the bilge in case there’s any other problems during the season. ![BioSok-van-Rosch-Marine_Hiswa-2014](https://storage.ghost.io/c/12/1c/121c16c6-2b59-4694-bbe8-29a61a7c2683/content/images/2008/04/BioSok-van-Rosch-Marine_Hiswa-2014-1.jpg) So far, these things look pretty convenient, and environmentally friendly. ### Boatsense unit failed again URL: https://seabits.com/boatsense-unit-failed-again/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:34:47.000Z A few evenings ago I went to the boat to check on some things, and decided to test the new [Boatsense](http://www.boatsensesolutions.com/?ref=seabits.com) unit by tripping the bilge sensor. After 5 minutes of waiting, nothing happened. Then, I got a call from the guys at [Boatsense](http://www.boatsensesolutions.com/?ref=seabits.com). Bad news they said – the unit sent the message for the bilge alarm, but it also sent a battery low message, and then sent an “ominous” message that it was “on it’s last legs”. This was some new code they had added to the unit to detect when the unit was failing. After discussing it for a few minutes, they decided to send me a new unit (unit #3!) and they wanted the dead unit back to do a post mortem. Apparently I’m an early adopter of their technology – in the first 500 customers – and they have had some other issues in the field. They’ve been pretty aggressive about fixing them, and adding new code and checks into their units to prevent issues. Regardless, it’s disappointing to see another unit fail. I was promised a new unit, but have still yet to see it – it’s been a week since the issue happened… ### Second Boatsense unit installed URL: https://seabits.com/second-boatsense-unit-installed/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:34:58.000Z Got a replacement Boatsense unit from the manufacturer, and installed it last week. No problems on the swap – took about 10 minutes, and everything tested out correctly. Set up my custom alert messsages and tested each alert by tripping the various sensors. No problems. Took a while for the manufacturer to respond to my queries to get it repaired, and initially it was quite frustrating getting text messages for things that weren’t broken at all hours of the day. The technology is new, so I know there will be some bugs. Hopefully this will be the last of them for this particular piece of technology! ### Knocking noise partially solved - PSS Shaft Seal URL: https://seabits.com/knocking-noise-partially-solved-pss-shaft-seal/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:35:07.000Z For a while I’ve had a knocking noise when at low idle after the engine repower. After a lot of trips to the bilge trying to figure out what’s going on, I found that the [PSS Dripless Shaft Seal ](http://www.shaftseal.com/?ref=seabits.com)was dripping. This has been ongoing now for 6 weeks or so. The seal is a stainless steel disc attached to the propeller shaft near the transmission, and a matching set of bellows and a carbon disc that pushes up against the steel disc. The stainless steel disc rotates with the prop shaft, while the carbon disk stays still, and is pressed against the steel disc. Water lubricates the carbon disc so that it doesn’t heat up, and the whole thing is supposed to provide a dripless solution that is better than a stuffing box because of low maintenance. During the engine repower, this was not replaced. The shop that did the work realized afterwards that it probably would have been a good idea to do that since we replaced everything else around it. Nevertheless, they have been extremely helpful in solving the issue. At first, I tried adjusting the tension of the bellows that the carbon disc is attached to – by increasing the pressure, the drip should stop. In the process, I found that the knocking noise at idle was coming from the carbon disc smacking the stainless steel disc. Through a lot of trial and error, I did minimize the drip. It would take years of inattention now for the drip to fill the bilge. But, the knocking noise was getting worse and worse. In addition, at higher RPMs, the dripless seal was throwing a lot of water around the bilge. Not enough to worry, but an annoying amount. This last week, Coastal Marine Engine, the folks who did the repower, said they had some new ideas. Originally they had thought the bellows had a spring in it, and it turns out it doesn’t. They found this while repowering another boat with a similar design. They found that out of the water, as expected, the hull of the boat changes because there is no water pressure against it. Once putting the boat into the water, the change in hull shape was enough to make the carbon disc on the boat change, and cause the shaft to be closer to the shaft log (hole through the boat that the shaft goes into) than they’d like. They offered, free of charge, to come out and examine mine to make sure shaft alignment was correct, and to see if the dripless was being affected. Sure enough, they found that the shaft alignment had changed, and adjusted things. They also examined the dripless seal and found that the bellows were producing less tension than the other boat they worked on recently. They adjusted things as best as they could, and advised me to have the dripless seal replaced during the next haul out. In my simple testing at the dock, the knocking has almost completely disappeared. The only time it shows up is when the motor is cold and at idle, where it’s vibrating the most, and it’s transmitting those vibrations down the shaft. Once it’s warm, the knocking is gone. The seal still leaks, and it still knocks a little, but it’s not so loud that people look at me when the motor is on. I’ll have it replaced sometime this year, and I know that it will get much better as a result. ### Boatsense Problems URL: https://seabits.com/boatsense-problems/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:35:16.000Z I’ve had the new Boatsense Remote Vessel monitoring solution installed for a week or so now, and have had a few problems with it. First, the company that manages it did some sort of firmware update to it, and it now sends me pages at random times (usually at 1-3AM) with gibberish in it. They have looked at it and believe they can repair it. Then, it started paging me that my battery is low. I tested the battery just to be sure with a very accurate multimeter, and found no problems. After repeated emails to the manufacturer, they finally conceded today to sending me a new unit, but not until I expressed my frustration at being paged at random hours, and again reiterating that I expected not to pay for all of the pages beyond the 20/month limit. They theorize that the voltage component in my current device is faulty, which is why I’m getting the random pages for battery problems. I hope to see a replacement unit in the next couple of days. ### Harrowing sail URL: https://seabits.com/harrowing-sail/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:35:25.000Z I took today off to sail around the bay and continue to test out some of the new systems on Jammy. It was forecast to be pretty windy later in the day, and even a rare gale warning late in the evening. The previous day it had been pretty windy (50mph) but had calmed down a lot. I arrived at the marina around 9AM and got everything ready. Wind was at 10kts, gusting to 15\. Everything checked out OK, so I left the marina and entered Elliott Bay. I passed the end of the breakwater, and waves were at about 2 feet. The wind picked up a little, but not too bad. I put the autopilot on “sail directly into the wind” mode and started to get ready for a little sailing. I left the motor running at about 1500 RPM. About 5 minutes into the preparation, and about 1/2 mile off of the breakwater, the engine started sputtering and lost at least half of it’s RPMs. After repeated attempts and figuring out what was going on, I shut off the motor and unfurled the jib 1/4 of the way. The wind had suddenly risen to about 20kts, and the waves were becoming unpleasant. Although the engine would run, it wouldn’t get full RPMs and sounded like it had some sort of fuel problem. I put the autopilot, still in wind trim mode (this is an awesome feature by the way, that I’ve used for a long while) about 30 degrees off the wind and made sure nothing was around me. I went below and inspected everything I could, as well as tried turning the engine back on. Same problem. I suspected that there was dirt in the tank that got into the fuel filter as a result of the large waves, and after all of the recent work that was done on the boat. After about 10 minutes of troubleshooting, I was a good mile away from the entrance to the breakwater out towards the shipping channels, and about a mile away from land. After running through all of the troubleshooting steps I could think of, and getting quite seasick in the process, I decided that relying on the engine to get back in was not an option. By now almost 2 hours had passed since I left the marina – my original plan was to test out things for about 15 minutes. The wind was now gusting to 30kts, and the waves were about 3 feet. I had already made several course changes and tacked back and forth between the marina and Bainbridge Island. I needed assistance getting into the marina – there’s no way I could sail the boat back into the marina and directly back to my slip. Not only would it be a lot of technical turns and twists that I’ve never done before under sail, but the marina strictly forbids it for obvious reasons. So, I called a friend and asked for Vessel Assist’s number. I called Vessel Assist and described my situation – they were trying to put me in touch with someone when I lost my phone connection with them. A couple of minutes later, the local captain called me back, and we chatted about options. He was at least an hour away, and had delivered a broken boat to my marina earlier in the day. He suggested that given the wind was coming from the south, I could sail into the east-most entrace of my marina and round up right near a wooden breakwater/slip area that is used for transient boats and large boats. I called Elliott Bay Marina on the VHF and went through my plan with them, and they thought it would be OK. I reversed course and sailed back towards the marina on a reach directly east. I was doing about 7.5kts with only 1/4 of the jib exposed! Amazing. Sort of fun, but I was too nervous thinking of sailing in on a downwind run past a big breakwater, and into a dock that may have boats at it. Right around this time I decided to try to get the engine working again just in case, and it did start up, and worked for a good 2 minutes, but then died again. Once I got closer I pulled even more of the jib in, but was still going fast. I stayed off the breakwater about 1/2 mile. I made my turn, and was still going pretty fast. I let the jib luff a bunch to slow things down, but with the wind and waves behind me, I was still going 4-5kts. As I passed the breakwater, I could see EBM employees running down the long dock to assist. At that time, I furled my jib, and was a good 300 yards away from where I wanted to meet the long dock. I started a series of slow S-turns to slow myself down, and was at about 2kts when I got parallel to the dock. I had lines ready on the stern, and threw one to one of the EBM folks, who promptly tied it around a cleat rather creatively. At 2kts, the rope didn’t like that, and parted. I had a second one and threw it to the other, more senior guy, and he ran along with me while I rounded up as much as I could, and tied me off. It took 30 more minutes after those guys left for me to secure the boat – the dock is not protected much from a south wind and the wave action was sickening. My seasickness went from bad to horrible, and I opted to simply tie everything down and go find some food and rest. I called the engine folks at Coastal Marine Engine, and they were very fast and responsive – Collin, the original mechanic that did the repower on my boat, came down and found the problem within a couple of hours and fixed it. Apparently there was a small screen in the pickup tube of the fuel tank (the only part of the system we didn’t replace in the repower!) that was clogged. He’d never seen a fuel tank with such a screen, and since we had multiple upstream redundant filters, he removed it. After testing and running everything, it worked perfectly. I went home and went to sleep while all of this was happening, since I was horribly sick. I woke up later in the day, and asked a friend to help me move the boat later that evening, since the forecast was for the wind and waves to get worse. It was a cold move from that dock to my slip, but well worth it. The wave action was horrible when we got there, and later that night, winds reached 50kts+ and waves were really bad. Jammy wouldn’t have liked it, and likely there would have been damage. The engine failing doesn’t make me upset – we did change out just about every system in that part of the boat, and I expect some additional fine tuning. The most interesting thing to me was the sailing. I was really happy that I was able to sail the boat with the jib reefed significantly without any huge stability problems in pretty high winds. The autopilot worked perfectly, the GPS and navigation systems warned me of an impending issue via AIS with a tug out in the channel while I was trying to figure out what next to do – all of those systems worked exactly as I had designed them. And finally, the actual sail back to the marina and into the dock rates as one of the most difficult things I have ever done on a boat – all of those things you read about and practice for when you’re in an emergency situation, and all of the little technical things about sailing that you use all of the time came into play in a perfect set of steps. No damage, no injury, and everything ended up working out. ### Remote vessel monitoring URL: https://seabits.com/remote-vessel-monitoring/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:35:33.000Z For a long time I’ve dreamt of having a system that would send me an email or text message when there’s something wrong. There are a lot of very high priced systems out there that you can purchase and for a monthly fee, have specific things monitored. Many of them are very bulky, require a lot of specialized hardware, and cost an arm and a leg. Recently, I was reading a sailing magazine (forget which one) and saw a write-up on a new system called [Boat Sense Solutions](http://www.boatsensesolutions.com/?ref=seabits.com). The system seemed really well thought out, and was reasonably priced. The product is a cell phone based text message device that will monitor a number of items on your boat, and send you and your two closest friends text messages when things are awry. After a bit of investigation, and questions to the manufacturer, which were answered very quickly, I bought the BSS2.1 version, a fire detector, and a dedicated bilge pump sensor. I ordered everything from one of their recommended vendors, [Hamilton Marine](http://www.hamiltonmarine.com/?ref=seabits.com), and it arrived super speedily. The product is well documented with color diagrams and wiring instructions. The actual “radio” portion of the product is very ruggedly designed, and can be mounted outside the boat if desired. I mounted mine in the starboard side of the boat behind my chartplotter in an enclosed cavity. In about an hour, I had the system up and running, monitoring my battery voltage, new bilge pump switch and fire detector. I sent a few text messages to the device to set up some of the options, and tested it by tripping the bilge switch and the fire detector. Within 30 seconds, my cell phone received a text message with the details of the alarm. I plan on adding a couple of more relays – one to monitor the cabin temperature, and if it drops below 40 degrees, to alert of a potential freeze situation. The second would be a relay to monitor shore power availability. For the price, and the flexibility of the device being able to work with normally open and closed circuits, it’s well worth the peace of mind. I’d highly recommend this to anyone who wants to ensure their investment and have early warning of a severely flooded cabin, or worse. ### Shipmodul NMEA multiplexer URL: https://seabits.com/shipmodul-nmea-multiplexer/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:35:42.000Z While redesigning my navigation system, I realized that I wanted several instruments to share information with my chartplotter, while also being able to share information between themselves. In addition, I also wanted a PC to be able to receive information from these instruments. After some investigation, I found a whole product line of NMEA multiplexers from [Shipmodul](http://shipmodul.com/en/index.html?ref=seabits.com). I chose the [MiniPlex-42BT](http://www.shipmodul.com/en/miniplex-42bt.html?ref=seabits.com). This version allows for 4 “talkers”, compatibility for SeaTalk and AIS, several “listeners” depending on your configuration, and Bluetooth support for your computer. My goal was to connect my Tacktick NMEA interface, autopilot, chartplotter, AIS receiver, VHF radio, and my PC all to the same system. After a lot of trial and error, and using MPXConfig from Shipmodul which allowed me to see the exact traffic passing through my multiplexer, I ended up with a slightly modified configuration. Most notably, I was unable to connect my AIS receiver to the multiplexer – not because it wouldn’t work, but because it sent so much data out so fast, that it caused “overflows” – where data from the slower NMEA 0183 instruments was being dropped in favor of the AIS data. Although AIS is nice information, I would rather have my chartplotter talking to my autopilot than know what’s around me. Final configuration was to have the chartplotter, VHF radio, and Tacktick NMEA interface all connected as “talkers” so that other instruments could see their data. The chartplotter, VHF radio, Tacktick NMEA, and autopilot were also “listeners” chained off of one port of the multiplexer. The AIS system was directly connected to my chartplotter over a NMEA 0183 high speed port. My PC used Bluetooth to see all of this data, and also transmit waypoints and routes if needed. The only disadvantage to this system is the fact that the AIS data is not visible on my PC, which is running Rose Point Navigation’s [Coastal Explorer](http://rosepointnav.com/CoastalExplorer/default.htm?ref=seabits.com) software, which supports AIS. I don’t use my PC while underway, but it would be nice to see things at anchor or when planning a short trip. By far one of the most useful utilities when building this configuration was the MPXConfig utility available for [download](http://www.shipmodul.com/en/downloads.html?ref=seabits.com) from Shipmodul. If you purchase one of the newer AIS/Bluetooth units, you will need to download a newer version of the utility from the link above, as the one included on the shipped CD does not allow you to toggle AIS. When setting the unit up, you have a number of options – Server, Hub, AIS, and Auto. I chose Hub mode because I wanted everything that came in all talker ports to be repeated out the listener ports. By default the system comes setup as Auto mode, which will toggle between these. One of the things I wanted to work all of the time was for the autopilot to receive wind angle data and waypoint information (if a course was set) regardless of what else was going on. Leaving the system in Auto or Server mode would have possibly caused some of the messages coming through to be dropped in the event that another instrument got chatty. Hence the reason for choosing Hub mode. However, when using Hub mode, you have to be careful. NMEA 0183 is limited to 4800 bits per second, which is pretty slow. With the Tacktick NMEA interface transmitting wind, compass, and fast heading information, along with the chartplotter and VHF. With the default configuration on my chartplotter, I ended up having a lot of overflows – where data is dropped from one talker because there’s too much going on. After examining Garmin’s configuration reference, and [reading about NMEA sentences and which ones meant what](http://www.gpsinformation.org/dale/nmea.htm?ref=seabits.com), I chose to disable some of the Garmin proprietary sentences to slow down the amount of data going to the multiplexer. This ended up solving my overflow problem. Overall I have been very happy with the multiplexer. Being able to connect to it via Bluetooth is very convenient, and helpful for planning trips and reviewing data. Having all of the instruments connected together makes things so much easier to use. Now my wireless Tacktick instruments display waypoints, XTE and other useful information when a course is set, and the autopilot steers towards it correctly, all while the chartplotter is getting depth, speed, and sail angle information which it never had before. ### AIS receiver URL: https://seabits.com/ais-receiver/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:35:50.000Z I was going through a major overhaul on my navigation system and decided to install an AIS receiver. There are only a few of them out there, and some of them are way overpriced for the featureset. After reviewing a bunch of online reviews, I choose the [Smart Radio SR162 ](http://milltechmarine.com/SR161.htm?ref=seabits.com)and the [Smart Radio VHF Antenna Splitter](http://milltechmarine.com/VHF%5Fsplitter.htm?ref=seabits.com) both sold by [Milltech Marine](http://milltechmarine.com/?ref=seabits.com) in the U.S. After a few questions to the folks at Milltech, who answered same-day with detailed technical information, and copies of the newest manuals, plus some tips, I ordered it direct.I chose the SR162 over the SR161 since I sail and motor in a congested, busy area, and want the assurance of both A and B channels used for AIS being caught by my systems. The SR161 only listens to the A channel, which limits the amount of boats it “hears” in busy areas. The manual online is slightly better than the printed one that comes with the unit. There are a few confusing things in it, but overall if you know NMEA 0183 and basic VHF antennas, you can set this up. First was the VHF splitter – I opted to use this since I have a single VHF antenna on the top of my mast, and I didn’t want to add a second antenna dedicated to the AIS system. The splitter installs upstream of your other VHF devices, in my case my VHF radio, and allows the AIS receiver to use an existing antenna, while still allowing you to use the antenna for other things such as VHF radios, and VHF broadcasts. The splitter was easy to install, and required power as well as re-routing my existing VHF cable. Once that was installed, the resulting cables coming from it went to my VHF radio, and to the AIS unit. Install of the AIS unit went pretty smoothly too. It required power, the input from the splitter, and output to my chartplotter. Initially I wanted to send the AIS output to my Shipmodul NMEA multiplexer, but after extensive testing, the high speed 38,400 baud rate of the AIS receiver added too much traffic to the rest of the data going back and forth, and caused overflows. Eventually, I chose to send it directly over a high speed NMEA 0183 port directly into my Garmin 5208 chartplotter. After using a multimeter to figure out which pins were which (you need pin 2 and 5), and cabling it up, all that was left was to power it and my chartplotter up, and configure my chartplotter to show AIS information. In about 30 seconds, I started to see AIS targets and information. That was it for configuration in terms of the AIS receiver. **A few notes:** First, your chartplotter or other software needs to support AIS. Check your specs first. Second, my chartplotter did support AIS, but it does add delay to the system overall when it’s running in a wide scan mode. One thing I don’t like about the Garmin solution is that you can’t see AIS wider than 2 nautical miles maximum. In addition, their alarms are based on MMSI or AIS targets that are within a specific distance, not necessarily based on TCPA. If you don’t know what those acronyms mean, go look on some AIS sites. It takes quite a while for the AIS target information to update to a decent usable level – this is by design of the AIS spec, so I’m not surprised. I would recommend turning these systems on early when you think you’re going to navigate sometime soon. In general, I’ve been very happy with the unit, and AIS in general. It’s basically set-and-forget technology, and it allows me to see things around corners and ahead of time that I would have listened for on the VHF in the past. It doesn’t replace being attentive at the helm, but it sure adds more safety to sailing. It’s already helped me prevent course changes into shipping lanes in the few weeks I’ve been using it. ### Garmin GPSMAP 5208 Chartplotter URL: https://seabits.com/garmin-gpsmap-5208-chartplotter/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:35:59.000Z Part of my [navigation systems overhaul ](https://seabits.com/navigation-system-overhaul)was to replace my handheld Garmin 76C GPS with something larger and more reliable, fixed mounted, that could drive my autopilot and allow me to see electronic maps as well as plot courses. At first, being in the computing industry for my day job, I started looking at a PC solution. There’s lots of very well thought out software out there, and a lot of it doesn’t require expensive charts or hardware. However, I was not comfortable trusting my entire navigation to a PC knowing what can happen to them both in general use, as well as on a boat. One of the other concerning things was power draw. Although a laptop can run and use a low wattage charger, I wasn’t thrilled about the prospect of inverters and such running all of the time to keep my navigation system going. In the end, I still bought PC software which I cover in a different post, but I bought a purpose-built chartplotter as my primary device. I reviewed solutions from [Raymarine ](http://www.raymarine.com/?ref=seabits.com)and [Garmin ](http://www.garmin.com/garmin/cms/site/us?ref=seabits.com)– I casually looked at a number of others, but due to the fact that I have had both Raymarine and Garmin products in the past, and also had a Raymarine autopilot, I wanted to keep in that family of products. I reviewed the Raymarine E and C series chartplotters, and after building an appropriate system that included future things I wanted to expand into (radar, etc.) I was surprised at the cost. Several parts of the system were proprietary SeaTalk protocols when they really didn’t need to be. Regardless, the system was very well designed and met my requirements. I went to several local stores and reviewed the units in person, and was very impressed with their options. I also reviewed the 4000 and 5000 series chartplotters from Garmin. The 4000 series is a non-touch screen version of the 5000 series, which is touch-screen. Both allow you to use both NMEA 0183/0183 High Speed, NMEA 2000, and the Garmin Networking protocols. After reviewing these units in person as well, I opted for the [Garmin GPSMAP 5208](https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=148&pID=9157&ref=seabits.com). After reviewing both manufacturers, the Garmin had a lot of features I liked. The touchscreen interface is the single best feature in the unit over the Raymarine. I can touch the screen no matter what condition it’s in – wet, dirty fingers, etc. No buttons taking up unit space, and very simple design of the interface. Moving around in the maps was a concern to me, and even some of the store clerks said in detail mode they have seen it slow down. So far in the month of use it’s had, I have only seen the display slow down when too many AIS targets are being tracked (in excess of 40!). Install was a breeze, and connecting it up to my multiplexer and AIS systems, as well as the GPS antenna it came with was easy. Within an hour I had the system mounted and running. I also opted for the g2 Vision card for my area, which gave me more details on port entries, aerial photos, satellite maps, and guide information for creating courses, among other things. A lot of this information is really nice to have when visiting a strange port. The unit is well made, and has plenty of connectors on the back for everything you would need. The features within the software are great – tides, currents, locations, auto navigation, clear charts, and AIS support. I have no complaints for the featureset at all. The system has driven my autopilot and the other parts of the system without any problems so far. It even has settings that match my Raymarine autopilot for naming waypoints – something that plagued me in past setups. The only issues I’ve had with it include a whine when it’s been on for a while and has lots of AIS targets, and problems with the GPS coming on initially. The whine I’ve traced to a fan within the unit that is trying to keep it cool. This is not annoying too much, although listening to it overnight at an anchorage might be. The amount of AIS data it has to track in Puget Sound, specifically Elliott Bay, is pretty amazing, so the whine is fine for me. The second issue is one I’m still researching. So far 5 times when I’ve turned the circuit breaker on for the whole system, and then powered on the unit, the GPS antenna hasn’t come on. This antenna has 5 wires – 2 for power, 2 for NMEA into the chartplotter, and one for “remote power on” which I assume is the GPSMAP unit sending a signal to the antenna to come on. I’m not sure if it’s something related to the Garmin version of software (v2.20) that it’s running, but I can’t find any updates or similar problems. I’ll post more if I find out. I am extremely happy with my purchase. I have a unit that will drive my autopilot when motoring, uses a small amount of power when sailing, supports AIS for collision avoidance, and has a wealth of other features I’ve not even figured out yet. The touchscreen interface is amazing, and I look forward to other devices that adopt this technology. ### Navigation system overhaul URL: https://seabits.com/navigation-system-overhaul/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:36:12.000Z I decided it was time to re-wire and re-tool my entire navigation system. I’ve written articles on parts of each of these, and they’re linked below. Here’s a general overview of what I had, and what I wanted to do. I started with: - Raymarine ST2000+ autopilot with wireless remote - Tacktick wireless instruments for depth, speed, GPS, wind, compass, heading, including NMEA interface - Handheld Garmin 76 GPS - [Uniden VHF radio with wireless remote](https://seabits.com/uniden-um625cbk-vhf-radio/) None of the systems above really worked well together, other than the Tacktick instruments and the autopilot. I used those two to sail a specific set degrees off of the wind when under sail. The purpose this process was to increase the capabilities of the system, and make sure everything talked with everything else. I ended up with: - Raymarine ST2000+ autopilot with wireless remote - Tacktick wireless instruments for depth, speed, GPS, wind, compass, heading, including NMEA interface - [Uniden VHF radio with wireless remote](https://seabits.com/uniden-um625cbk-vhf-radio/) - [Shipmodul NMEA multiplexer with Bluetooth](https://seabits.com/shipmodul-nmea-multiplexer/) - [Smart Radio AIS receiver and VHF splitter](https://seabits.com/ais-receiver) - [Garmin GPSMAP 5208 chartplotter](https://seabits.com/garmin-gpsmap-5208-chartplotter/) - PC using Coastal Navigator software ### Coastal Explorer URL: https://seabits.com/coastal-explorer/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:36:27.000Z I was looking for PC based navigation software – there’s a lot of choices out there. Eventually after reviewing over 50 of them, I found one that had all of the options I wanted, was very well written, and had lots of good reviews online – [Costal Explorer ](http://rosepointnav.com/CoastalExplorer/default.htm?ref=seabits.com)by [Rose Point Systems](http://rosepointnav.com/default.htm?ref=seabits.com). The program itself is moderately priced, and will run on most modern Windows operating systems. Being a Mac user myself, I also have it running in a virtual machine without any problems. The interface is well designed, which is one of my biggest complaints about all of the other options. Rose Point thought a lot about this area, and it really sets their product apart from others out there. Maps are available online for free from NOAA – links are provided within the software. If you want to review the features, head over to Rose Point Systems website and look through their documentation. They have a good screen shot gallery as well showing almost all of the features and screens. Key to me was easy navigation planning, which they have simplified compared to many of the other software out there. Easy click and drag, as well as quick feedback about your routes, obstructions, and estimation tools – all easily useable from the same screen. One of the concerning things about the product was lack of new upgrades since 2006, very slow responses on their support forums, and the fact that Maptech had a similar product – did they get bought? After a few emails to their tech support and sales departments, I had some nice exchanges with senior members of the company indicating that they had been focusing on some major new features that would be announced in 2008 at the Seattle Boat Show. Radar support, as well as some neat UI features were coming, as well as bugfixes and more. I ended up also purchasing the Maptech version called [Chart Navigator Pro ](http://www.maptech.com/water/chartNavigatorPro/index.cfm?ref=seabits.com)because I wanted the extra map data that comes with it. The products are identical, except that the Maptech version uses a different method of licensing. I primarily use the Rose Point version, and it also reads the Maptech data that is copied to my hard drive from the DVD install set. I’ve just begun to use the application, so as I see more things, I’ll post them here. Happy so far! ### New cabin lights URL: https://seabits.com/new-cabin-lights/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:36:38.000Z My existing cabin lights were in need of being replaced. They were a mixed match of various manufacturers, mostly halogen, and very good at sucking a lot of power. A couple were older flourescent lights that didn’t work at all. All of the halogen lights got too hot to touch in about 5 minutes, and while they provided a lot of light, they were mostly reading or spot lights, so the remainder of the cabin was relatively dark. I wanted to use both LED and flourescent lights in my new design for power saving purposes, and I wanted the majority of them to be able to switch from normal cabin lighting mode to night vision mode. I ended up with three different types of lights based on needs: - Adjustable LED light with both white and red color for reading/nav area - LED Reading light for reading area - Flourescent and LED light combo for everywhere else When selecting my lights, I did a lot of research on manufacturers, power usage, and features. At the time, it seemed like the LED light craze hadn’t completely been embraced by all of the major manufacturers, and that limited some of my choices. I chose the [Resolux 505 Elegance LED ](http://www.imtra.com/product/marine%5Flighting/fluorescents/resolux%5F505%5Fseries/resolux%5F505%5Felegance%5Fled/il5241.htm?ref=seabits.com)light from [Imtra Marine Products ](http://www.imtra.com/?ref=seabits.com)as my all purpose light. I have three of them in the main cabin – one near the galley area, one near the nav station, and one in the center of the main cabin over the table. These lights have very efficient flourescent bulbs that provide a large amount of illumination, and a set of 6 red LED’s that can be used for night vision. Install was simple and straightforward – one nice feature is that the electrical connections are blade connectors, not raw wires, which makes for a cleaner connection. There’s plenty of space behind the light for routing wires, and drilling holes in ends or sides is possible with the space as well. The light performs very well, and provides a lot of good light in both modes. The only issue is that the red LED lights are mounted on one side of the cavity inside the light, so most of the red light will be projected to one side of the light. I ended up having to reverse the light so that the red light shone where I wanted it. For my reading light, I chose the [Sydney LED](http://www.imtra.com/product/marine%5Flighting/reading%5F%5Fchart%5Flights/led%5Freading%5Flights/sydney%5Fled/ilim40501.htm?ref=seabits.com) light, again from [Imtra Marine Products. ](http://www.imtra.com/?ref=seabits.com)I have one of these near a common place for reading, and it provides plenty of natural-looking (not quite natural!) light for reading or other projects. The light itself is well made, but I had a couple of issues with it. First, the space behind it for wire routing is non-existent. It was very difficult to route wires, and work behind the unit. Second, the light gets pretty hot after a few minutes, although nowhere near as hot as the old halogens. Overall the Sydney LED light draws a tiny amount of power for the light it produces. It allows you to swivel it pretty much anywhere, and it looks good too. The final light I installed was a flexible reading/chart light, again from Imtra, model [F4 TouchLED](http://www.imtra.com/product/marine%5Flighting/reading%5F%5Fchart%5Flights/led%5Ftask%5Fchart%5Flights/f4%5Ftouchled%5Ftask%5Flight/il4493.htm?ref=seabits.com). This light didn’t have any switches, and automatically turns on the red LEDs when it’s dark out. The auto-on functionality is nice when entering the cabin from outside so you don’t have to fumble around. The touch on/off is convenient too, although a bit annoying when you brush up against it. The only complaint about this particular light is the wiring – very little space behind it again, and also very small wires. This upgrade was extremely beneficial to both the safety and the electrical system on the boat. The amount of power used is a fraction of what it used to be, which means less draw on my batteries, and less problems overall. Not having the heat associated with the old (and dangerous) halogens means that there’s less chance of a fire or other bad electrical issue. ### Uniden UM625CBK VHF radio URL: https://seabits.com/uniden-um625cbk-vhf-radio/ Last updated: 2021-09-21T02:36:47.000Z Most people have a decent VHF radio on their boat – it’s pretty standard equipment for everyone. My current radio was going bad, and really didn’t have the features I needed for saftey reasons. I went out to investigate some of the newer features of the radios out there, specifically: DSC – digital selective calling GPS – interfaces with on-board GPS for location information and when distress calls are made/come in External mic/handhelds Distress calls I am a “no wires” kind of guy, and one of my initial criteria was that the external mic/handheld must not have a hardwire connection to the base unit. That limited my choice to basically one major manufacturer – Uniden. I ended up reviewing solutions from Icom, Standard Horizon, and a few others, but kept coming back to the Uniden. I ended up purchasing the [Uniden UM625CBK ](http://www.uniden.com/products/productdetail.cfm?product=UM625C-BK&filter=Fixed%20Mount&ref=seabits.com)with a [WHAM x4 ](http://www.uniden.com/products/productdetail.cfm?product=WHAMx4BK&filter=Wireless&ref=seabits.com)remote. Installation was straightforward and easy – brackets for a number of different options for mounting, etc. The radio has an extra antenna mount for using the WHAM series of wireless handhelds longer distances away. According to the manual, because I only wanted to use the WHAM x4 on board, I didn’t need an antenna. Using the base station was very easy – menus were obvious and easy to use, and the quality of the reception was better than the old radio I had previously. Installation of the WHAM x4 was easy as well – simple connection for charging. Pairing it with the base station was a bit kludgy and not very well documented. Using the wireless mic was very easy, and the UI and usage has been designed very well. I connected the base unit to my GPS so that I could use the automatic distress functionality within the product. It’s designed to send GPS coordinates in the event of an emergency when someone presses the distress button on either the base station or the handheld. This connection also means that when a distress call comes in from someone else nearby, the radio will know where they are (potentially) and can plot a course and feed it into the GPS system. One thing I’ve noticed in using the system is cutouts while listening to others talking on high powered channels. I’m not sure if it’s the radio or my old antenna. Still investigating here. The wireless mic is extremely handy. Rather than having the radio on really loud from below, or having a fixed-mounted system, I can move around the boat and always hear radio traffic nearby. The other really important advantage, and one of the main reasons I wanted this system, is for safety – having a GPS enabled distress call capable wireless handheld in case I have a problem while singlehanding. ### Welcome! URL: https://seabits.com/welcome1/ Last updated: 2022-03-18T03:53:52.000Z I’ve started this site to catalog my experiences both in sailing, as well as in technology and sailing. I hope you enjoy my ramblings.